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Palicgofueniczekt posted:Why do I only get 16.5~18.8mpg (7~8km/l)? I have had my car tuned though, so it could have something to do with that, considering how much jamal smoothed out that dyno earlier.
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Mar 15, 2009 15:42
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Palicgofueniczekt posted:Why do I only get 16.5~18.8mpg (7~8km/l)? Just do the accelerator wood block mod. Very cheap and proven to increase gas mileage, especially on turbo models. On a serious note, it could be a bad MAF or O2 sensor. I get 24 mpg in my Ver7 swapped GC, and I don't exactly have a light foot. Spec B's are heavier so I dunno. It seems like a tune would actually decrease your mileage over stock if you're on the boost a lot. They're going to mostly add fuel to bring you to a safe AFR, which is healthier for your engine, but not as good for mileage. dayman fucked around with this message at 19:24 on Mar 15, 2009 |
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Mar 15, 2009 19:21
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dayman posted:Just do the accelerator wood block mod. Very cheap and proven to increase gas mileage, especially on turbo models. Oh, and my 28mpg wasn't in 'I' either, it was in regular 'S' which is what I use most of the time. *shrug*
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Mar 15, 2009 21:24
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I had to jump my grandfather's old Lincoln today which is on a concrete slab. The ground next to it is very soft. My Uncle was all uh oh youre sinking youre gonna get stuck! I was like look old man this cars all wheel drive. Full time. You dont know nothin bout this cause you too old. Then I effortlessly wisked out of the soft ground, up a hill and on to the street. He couldnt meet my eyes for the rest of the day.
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Mar 15, 2009 21:32
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Fantastipotamus posted:Maybe the guy who did it was a genius or something, but I definitely get better mileage after the tune than before, and obviously making more power too. Hard to argue with +35hp, +30tq and somehow better mileage for $800 (including AP cost). There's no real genius to it. What's probably happening is you have more power available because the car isn't pulling timing which kills both power and fuel economy. The increased power means you don't have to depress the accelerator as much or for as long to get the desired acceleration. It also depends on how conservative your tune was. If he tuned it to 12.5: 1 for boost, then your mileage probably isn't going to take much of a hit under boost. This is pretty likely if he's tuning stock. I specifically requested a conservative tune, because when i start adding power on my own, I'll have more of a buffer to play with. My AFR's are around 11-11.5:1. I had another thought. Gearing probably goes a long way for your fuel economy. I'm running a 4.44 Ver6 tranny, so at highway speeds in 5th i'm spinning at 3500 on the highway. Not the greatest for fuel econ, but fantastic for shiftless passing. dayman fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Mar 15, 2009 |
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Mar 15, 2009 22:04
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dayman posted:On a serious note, it could be a bad MAF or O2 sensor. Would the dumby light come on if it was either of those? I occasionally have a rough/pulsating idle. A mechanic said something about it being common on boxer engines (we have a little language barrier). Fantastipotamus posted:Oh, and my 28mpg wasn't in 'I' either, it was in regular 'S' which is what I use most of the time. *shrug* You people and your special modes. E: P.S. Would flashing the ECU change the exhaust emissions for the better or worse? I am due for an inspection in September, and I am not certain how strict they are. I heard something about fume color and the scent of eggs. Corky Romanovsky fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Mar 15, 2009 |
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Mar 15, 2009 22:05
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Palicgofueniczekt posted:Would the dumby light come on if it was either of those? I occasionally have a rough/pulsating idle. A mechanic said something about it being common on boxer engines (we have a little language barrier). You really should have a CEL if you're having problems with either of the sensors. If they're both within their normal operating envelope, they won't trigger a code, but they may not be reading correctly. How does you car feel under acceleration? Is it hesitant at all? The only way to know for sure what's going on with the car is to throw it on a dyno, unfortunately. I'd much rather have an STi 6-speed than a slushbox An ECU reflash will be invisible to most testing equipment. What will be noticeable is if you've deleted your cats and the corresponding codes. Depending on where you live, state inspections have started to notice that some cars that should definitely be showing codes but aren't. Some have programs in place to detect it.
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Mar 15, 2009 22:19
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dayman posted:There's no real genius to it. What's probably happening is you have more power available because the car isn't pulling timing which kills both power and fuel economy. The increased power means you don't have to depress the accelerator as much or for as long to get the desired acceleration. It also depends on how conservative your tune was. If he tuned it to 12.5: 1 for boost, then your mileage probably isn't going to take much of a hit under boost. This is pretty likely if he's tuning stock. I specifically requested a conservative tune, because when i start adding power on my own, I'll have more of a buffer to play with. My AFR's are around 11-11.5:1.  Gearing will definitely be a factor, as I've got the STi 6-speed so 75-78 mph is around 2800 rpm.
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Mar 15, 2009 22:25
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Fantastipotamus posted:I was being facetious about the genius piece of it, but yeah, I agree on your point about not having to hit the pedal as hard, or for as long. I think my AFR is a little below 12, if I'm reading my dyno sheet right. hey that plot sure looks a lot like the ones I've been posting... keep in mind those afrs are under WOT. Crusing around people usually see no change or an increase in economy.
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Mar 15, 2009 23:28
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jamal posted:hey that plot sure looks a lot like the ones I've been posting... 
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Mar 16, 2009 01:01
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Oh, I was referring to the type of dyno, formatting, and colors.
jamal fucked around with this message at 09:56 on Mar 16, 2009 |
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Mar 16, 2009 01:20
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I've never bothered to buy a Chilton's or Hayne's manual for my cars but the WRX has a lot of service points I've never messed with before. What is the best manual for the car? Hopefully one that will tell me when I need to mess with the clutch/fluid, the trans fluid, diff fluid, etc. Never had a stick, AWD, turbo, or truly high performance car before. (Unless you count the supercharged Mark VIII...which I don't)
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Mar 16, 2009 15:46
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The factory service manual is fantastic.
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Mar 16, 2009 16:06
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ab0z posted:The factory service manual is fantastic. They are like $60 per Section manual. You can buy them in PDF form direct from Subaru. http://techinfo.subaru.com posted:2002 Impreza General Information Section You could drop off the SOHC book, but either way, its not cheap.
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Mar 16, 2009 16:37
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I realize that, and buying them isn't for everyone. However, if you plan to own and service your car for a long time, having documentation that you can count on 100% is worth a lot more than the purchase price.
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Mar 16, 2009 17:46
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ab0z posted:I realize that, and buying them isn't for everyone. However, if you plan to own and service your car for a long time, having documentation that you can count on 100% is worth a lot more than the purchase price. hahahaha can we all stop pretending that this giant black market for everything like this doesn't exist and is extremely accessible for free by anyone now?
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Mar 16, 2009 17:51
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Yeah, but I didn't want to get banned for 
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Mar 16, 2009 18:53
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I'm going to have to sell my baby soon to buy a house(2007 STI.) Ebaymotors listings show them going mostly in the 20-25k range, with mileage near mine (32k currently) Is it likely that I can get at least 22k for mine? It's black and in great shape but the previous owner, for reasons unknown to me, swapped a regular WRX spoiler in place of the one from the STI. I know that the car market is crazy right now, but is that a reasonable price to expect? edit: just looked up some local listings, and I'm seeing 05s and 06s going for 24k, so I'll hopefully be able to get that for mine. The Subaru places near me never did the crazy price drops on the 08s, so this may be the first time it's been an advantage to live in a lovely state. platero fucked around with this message at 06:43 on Mar 17, 2009 |
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Mar 17, 2009 06:31
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ab0z posted:I realize that, and buying them isn't for everyone. However, if you plan to own and service your car for a long time, having documentation that you can count on 100% is worth a lot more than the purchase price. There was one linked here earlier for the 2004 STI that is very extensive and probably covers 99% of any MY01 -> MY07. http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/STi_Manual/index.htm Might be a bit hard to work out how to access what you want, but it's proving well worth the grab.
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Mar 17, 2009 07:35
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That's what O'Hagen was talking about.
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Mar 17, 2009 14:31
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So my 2004 Impreza has hit 130,000 miles and I want to get ALL the fluids changed. I am wondering what brands/types you would recommend/avoid and how much of each type I will need? I will be getting the following done: brake fluid,radiator fluid, manual transmission oil,transfer case gear oil, and power steering fluid (am I missing any, oil was just changed).
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Mar 17, 2009 17:25
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There is a lot of opinion on the internet about fluids, but you are guaranteed good results with OEM fluids. They are more expensive, but the quality is guaranteed and there are some sites that may save you money over the dealer. (subaruparts.com, subarugenuineparts.com, etc.) The link a few posts up will have sections that tell you quantities, etc.
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Mar 17, 2009 17:56
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ab0z posted:There is a lot of opinion on the internet about fluids, but you are guaranteed good results with OEM fluids. They are more expensive, but the quality is guaranteed and there are some sites that may save you money over the dealer. (subaruparts.com, subarugenuineparts.com, etc.) I'm not sure about the 5-speeds, but the 6 speed hates anything that isn't OEM tranny fluid. Brake fluid I just use the Valvoline stuff you can get at Advance Auto, here's what it looks like. It has the highest wet boiling temperature of any "non-specialty" brake fluid and is pretty cheap too. This is what it looks like: 
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Mar 17, 2009 18:10
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My WRX now occasionally makes a noise which sounds like its coming from the back right. It sounds a bit like a brake pad letting me know its time to be changed, it is a fairly high pitches squeal. It only comes on after driving for a while, it doesn't always start making noise and applying the brakes a bit will make it stop, when I release it will often start back up fr a minute. HOWEVER it will sometimes just go away completely. It is a very inconsistent problem which I would first thing sticky caliper for. I haven't had the wheels off but I don't see excessive break dust on one or either of the rear wheels nor is there pitting on either of the discs. The brakes pads say powerstop (I think) on them and have a mfg date in 08. The rotors are cross drilled and slotted. Are WRX pads/discss like this stock? Is this a common noise?
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Mar 17, 2009 18:15
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RealKyleH posted:My WRX now occasionally makes a noise which sounds like its coming from the back right. It sounds a bit like a brake pad letting me know its time to be changed, it is a fairly high pitches squeal. It only comes on after driving for a while, it doesn't always start making noise and applying the brakes a bit will make it stop, when I release it will often start back up fr a minute. HOWEVER it will sometimes just go away completely. It is a very inconsistent problem which I would first thing sticky caliper for. I haven't had the wheels off but I don't see excessive break dust on one or either of the rear wheels nor is there pitting on either of the discs. The brakes pads say powerstop (I think) on them and have a mfg date in 08. The rotors are cross drilled and slotted. Are WRX pads/discss like this stock? Is this a common noise? Those are not stock pads and rotors, they're aftermarket. The rear squeal is something I've had on my 02 as well, applying the brakes makes it stop. I was thinking it was either a sticking pad/caliper or a problem with the e-brake, then it vanished and hasn't come back since.
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Mar 17, 2009 18:28
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RealKyleH posted:My WRX now occasionally makes a noise which sounds like its coming from the back right. It sounds a bit like a brake pad letting me know its time to be changed, it is a fairly high pitches squeal. It only comes on after driving for a while, it doesn't always start making noise and applying the brakes a bit will make it stop, when I release it will often start back up fr a minute. HOWEVER it will sometimes just go away completely. It is a very inconsistent problem which I would first thing sticky caliper for. I haven't had the wheels off but I don't see excessive break dust on one or either of the rear wheels nor is there pitting on either of the discs. The brakes pads say powerstop (I think) on them and have a mfg date in 08. The rotors are cross drilled and slotted. Are WRX pads/discss like this stock? Is this a common noise? Not that I had, but when my pads were low they would squeal at low speed like I had a bad wheel bearing. They would only squeak at certain speeds, like at around 25mph or when I was creeping around looking for a parking spot. Later it turned out that just one of my pads, the one on the inside of the caliper was worn down almost to the backing and the contact between that and rotor was making the noise. wore a nice groove into my rotors as well. Dealer couldn't duplicate it, and wanted some stupid amount of money to change the wheel bearings. After I changed the pads, the noise went away.
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Mar 17, 2009 18:31
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atomicfire posted:I'm not sure about the 5-speeds, but the 6 speed hates anything that isn't OEM tranny fluid. That's the thing though. You really can't buy quarts of OEM gear oil. You can only get it in 20L drums. Your local dealer may or may not allow you to siphon off and buy 4 quarts of the stuff (about $8 /quart.) They also may not stock the OEM gear oil at all and may use whatever drums of GL5 gear oil they have lying around. It's kind of annoying. Your only options are to hope your dealer will accommodate you and has the correct thing or buy a 5 gallon drum of the stuff for $150 and hope you keep the car long enough to go though 5 gear oil changes.
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Mar 17, 2009 18:32
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https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/index.php?cPath=33_92 They have your gear and diff fluids, but as mentioned, the gear oil comes in a large container. Have you checked with your local dealer to see what service costs there to have this stuff done? I always advocate doing things yourself, but if they have a good price then you could save yourself an afternoon under your car, plus the assurance that it's done right. Maybe you could pay them to do just the transmission and differential service, and do the rest yourself?
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Mar 17, 2009 18:41
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Backno posted:So my 2004 Impreza has hit 130,000 miles and I want to get ALL the fluids changed. I am wondering what brands/types you would recommend/avoid and how much of each type I will need? I will be getting the following done: brake fluid,radiator fluid, manual transmission oil,transfer case gear oil, and power steering fluid (am I missing any, oil was just changed).
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Mar 17, 2009 23:26
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I just talked to my friend that has owned and tuned more STIs than I can remember, he said for the diff you MOST DEFINITELY should use subaru fluid, for the trans use the appropriate weight and viscosity gear oil of decent quality, synthetic not required. *keep in mind this is for the STi, and its 6mt, not the regular wrx with the 5mt*
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Mar 18, 2009 00:18
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RealKyleH posted:My WRX now occasionally makes a noise which sounds like its coming from the back right. It sounds a bit like a brake pad letting me know its time to be changed, it is a fairly high pitches squeal. It only comes on after driving for a while, it doesn't always start making noise and applying the brakes a bit will make it stop, when I release it will often start back up fr a minute. HOWEVER it will sometimes just go away completely. It is a very inconsistent problem which I would first thing sticky caliper for. I haven't had the wheels off but I don't see excessive break dust on one or either of the rear wheels nor is there pitting on either of the discs. The brakes pads say powerstop (I think) on them and have a mfg date in 08. The rotors are cross drilled and slotted. Are WRX pads/discss like this stock? Is this a common noise? If you can see the pads say Powerstop on them, they probably don't have shims and the anti-rattle clips may be worn out. My RS made this noise often until I replaced the pads with OEM (so that I got a full new set of slides/clips/shims).
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Mar 18, 2009 01:16
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The brake pads being real close to the rotors and rattling slightly I could definitely see causing this. Especially because one time with a lot of heavy braking (I figure causing both the rotor and the pad to expand) it was quite noticeable/noisy. Its only happened twice since buying it a week ago and putting probably 700 miles on it.
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Mar 18, 2009 01:21
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ab0z posted:I just talked to my friend that has owned and tuned more STIs than I can remember, he said for the diff you MOST DEFINITELY should use subaru fluid, for the trans use the appropriate weight and viscosity gear oil of decent quality, synthetic not required. Does he actually realise ALL name brand fluids are just some poo poo like Castrol or Valvoline rebranded, depending on who Subary have a deal with for supply? There is no special elf blood injected that makes slapping a Subaru sticker on a container automatically better. If you want smurf blood for a 6mt, Redline Shockproof Heavy is it. Very noticable difference from the Penrite synth that was in it. Fourth gear suddenly likes to behave. Also much better when the gearbox is hot and your going like hell.
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Mar 18, 2009 01:55
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Like I said, there is a lot of opinion on the internet about what to use, but the oem brands are guaranteed to work correctly. One of our friends has run high 10s in his STi, with oem fluids in the drivetrain.
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Mar 18, 2009 03:50
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platero posted:I'm going to have to sell my baby soon to buy a house(2007 STI.) Ebaymotors listings show them going mostly in the 20-25k range, with mileage near mine (32k currently) The reason the previous owner swapped the spoiled is because a lot of people don't like the huge stock one the 04-07s came with, myself included. If you want to change it back for selling purposes, just post in your regions section of NASIOC that you'd like to swap. Often people are looking for one or the other. I don't think it will negatively effect the value though, for some people it actually makes it MORE desirable. Also, are you sure you have to sell your car to get a house? Has a loan officer actually told you it'd help that much? I ask because I made the mistake of getting rid of my 04 WRX three years ago because I thought it'd help me get into a house and it barely made a difference in the final loan amount. I think 22k for an 07 is pretty darn reasonable compared to what I've seen. I'd probably start at 24.
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Mar 18, 2009 07:02
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Mat_Drinks posted:The reason the previous owner swapped the spoiled is because a lot of people don't like the huge stock one the 04-07s came with, myself included. If you want to change it back for selling purposes, just post in your regions section of NASIOC that you'd like to swap. Often people are looking for one or the other. I don't think it will negatively effect the value though, for some people it actually makes it MORE desirable. I'll probably ask 25, and take any solid offer 23+. I do need to sell my car because due to the oil industry/economy going down the toilet, I no longer have a job that pays mileage/car expenses, which made having this car easy. I'd rather drive a beater for a year or two, then buy another used STI once I've got a permanent job.
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Mar 18, 2009 07:20
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anyone have experience with older more affordable 2.5rs imprezas? I drive a mustang cobra daily and the mpg isn't bad but not great,also i commute a few time a week and really dislike putting that many miles on my baby. I'm really considering buying a well maintained clean 2.5rs in the sub $7k range. How is the mileage? I know that it will probably seem slow compared to my cobra, but are they fun to drive? I would also really like to try rally cross and it seems that would be a good choice. Lastly, i do all maintenance myself and keep everything running smooth. If i take attention to detail with it do they seem pretty reliable since they are NA?
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Mar 20, 2009 08:29
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Anti-Square posted:anyone have experience with older more affordable 2.5rs imprezas? I drive a mustang cobra daily and the mpg isn't bad but not great,also i commute a few time a week and really dislike putting that many miles on my baby. I'm really considering buying a well maintained clean 2.5rs in the sub $7k range. How is the mileage? I know that it will probably seem slow compared to my cobra, but are they fun to drive? I would also really like to try rally cross and it seems that would be a good choice. Lastly, i do all maintenance myself and keep everything running smooth. If i take attention to detail with it do they seem pretty reliable since they are NA? Remeber that $7k is basically bugeye WRX money now.
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Mar 20, 2009 08:42
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Anti-Square posted:anyone have experience with older more affordable 2.5rs imprezas? I drive a mustang cobra daily and the mpg isn't bad but not great,also i commute a few time a week and really dislike putting that many miles on my baby. I'm really considering buying a well maintained clean 2.5rs in the sub $7k range. How is the mileage? I know that it will probably seem slow compared to my cobra, but are they fun to drive? I would also really like to try rally cross and it seems that would be a good choice. Lastly, i do all maintenance myself and keep everything running smooth. If i take attention to detail with it do they seem pretty reliable since they are NA? 2.5RS's are amazing cars. They're quite light for AWD; 2850lbs. Turn in response is awesome, they're unbeatable in snow and gravel, well behaved in auto-x. It will be slow compared to your cobra. If you can get over that fact, then you will not be disappointed. You also can't beat them in the looks department.  As for the poster above me. It's true, you can get a WRX for around the 8-9k mark nowadays...7 is pushing it, unless it's got problems. Comparatively, a good condition RS with around 100k miles will go for around 6500. Edit: I just thought of another issue that's likely to come up if you seriously consider this car. The EJ251, the N/A boxer engine in the RS/Legacy/Foresters of the early 00's, is a great engine, but it does not respond well to modifications without fairly large investment. This is just the opposite of the newer EJ205, EJ255, and EJ257 turbo engines. The nature of FI makes it much cheaper to increase the hp of these engines by a significant margin. There is a huge cottage industry devoted to swapping these turbo engines into the older GC chassis. The gains of this swap are obvious, lighter chassis = more acceleration compared to the donor car. However, to perform a swap like this correctly even doing all the mechanical work yourself will cost on the order of 4k for a WRX motor, 6k for an STi motor, 10k for an STi driveline. The bottom line then becomes this; -2.5RS- If you like a cheap, attractive, tossable chassis that's got great torque down low and is just overall a fun car as long as you stay away from the drag strip. Also if you plan on taking the plunge to eventually swap it -WRX- if you're more into gradually making power mods, don't mind the buyeye look, and don't mind a little extra weight. dayman fucked around with this message at 14:39 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 14:26
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I daily drive a 2002 2.5RS. It's a fantastic car. You can do all you want handling-wise with it, but power gains aren't possible. I've left my car stock because I can't justify building up the 2.5 when I could just trade for a wrx and have a better platform of a car. The biggest mistake I ever made with was drive a wrx and get a taste of boost. Other than that the 2.5 is a fun zippy little car. Watch out for head gaskets though, I blew the driver side on mine and the bill wasn't pretty. Also, everything the guy above me says is spot on.
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Mar 20, 2009 14:46
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