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So the fact that the DSLR batteries are 7.4v and the 2CR5's are 6v isn't a problem?
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Mar 17, 2009 22:21
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gib posted:So the fact that the DSLR batteries are 7.4v and the 2CR5's are 6v isn't a problem? Originally I intended to use a LM317 to get my 6v, but found it was easier to package 3 silicon diodes in series. Each diode uses about .5 to .7v each, takes it from (on my meter) 8.4 fully charged to 7. I suspect my cheapo DVM isnt all that well calibrated. Camera functions fine. Before committing to the DSLR battery, I tried various AA. The Rebel did power up fine with 4 NiMHs, which kind of surprised me, and 4 AA alkalines were perfect. My problem was that 4 AAs wouldnt quite fit under the camera. I did consider that 3 would fit and one AA would fit into the battery well, which would be another way to go with this. Id have gone commercial but Canon apparently didnt make a battery grip for the Ti.Had I smoked the camera, too bad, so sad, they are cheap these days. I look at it like getting a free camera with every lens purchase.
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Mar 18, 2009 03:09
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Hey all, I'm going to be in Russia for a few weeks this summer and though I want to use my SLR, a Nikon F100, I'm very concerned about it being fancy-looking and attracting the wrong kind of attention (The city I'm staying in has a reputation for beatings of students who are from abroad). Not to mention the body and a lens can be pretty bulky to carry around, as well as the fact that it looks like a modern dSLR. Does anyone have any recommendations about an affordable 35mm rangefinder I could buy to use for the trip? I feel as though a rangefinder might be easier to carry around without attracting too much attention. I dug up a Yashica Lynx 14 in my closet but it appears to be busted  .
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Mar 18, 2009 23:18
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Rednik posted:Does anyone have any recommendations about an affordable 35mm rangefinder I could buy to use for the trip? I feel as though a rangefinder might be easier to carry around without attracting too much attention. I dug up a Yashica Lynx 14 in my closet but it appears to be busted How about buy any number of Russian rangefinders while you're over there? FED's, Zorki's, Kiev's ...
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Mar 18, 2009 23:33
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Leica-mount Nikons 
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Mar 18, 2009 23:34
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evil_bunnY posted:Leica-mount Nikons Did Nikon even make any LTM cameras? I'd suggest some sort of Olympus or Canon (or minolta, etc.) fixed-lens RF. An olympus XA, maybe?
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Mar 18, 2009 23:46
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evil_bunnY posted:Leica-mount Nikons Pretty sure he said 'affordable' there ... Also, he could try reading through the thread - this question has come up about 5 or 6 times in the past 30 pages.
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Mar 18, 2009 23:46
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Lambster Bisque posted:How about buy any number of Russian rangefinders while you're over there? FED's, Zorki's, Kiev's ... Coming from Kiev, I've heard enough to instantly dismiss the Kiev cameras due to their unreliability and hit-or-miss construction. However, I'm not particularly knowledgeable about either Zorkis or FEDs, though of course I do love their styling. However, I'm still concerned about quality, particularly with the street stall atmosphere of camera shops in the former Soviet Union. How will I know the light meter and shutter are properly calibrated? At least the price would be low, I suppose. Can the Russian rangefinders stack up to Japanese and European alternatives?
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Mar 19, 2009 00:02
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Lambster Bisque posted:Pretty sure he said 'affordable' there ...
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Mar 19, 2009 00:56
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I figured their popularity lies within being quieter (no mirror slapping about) and compacted-ness, useful for when the photographer wishes to be discreet.
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Mar 19, 2009 01:21
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evil_bunnY posted:Are used models still that expensive? (I truly have no idea, I find the whole rangefinder concept retarded in this day and age). Yes they are, and it's actually you who is retarded.
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Mar 19, 2009 02:25
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Rednik posted:Can the Russian rangefinders stack up to Japanese and European alternatives? Not exactly, but they're quite a bit cheaper (okay, this is a lie - my Yashica Minister 700 was 1/4 the price of my FED 1f NKVD, but that's not the general rule). However you can find some really great quality Russian rangefinders from places such as http://www.fedka.com/catalog/ . It really comes down to what you're looking for. Compactness, interchangeable lenses, affordability, fully-coupled viewfinders, metering, etc.
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Mar 19, 2009 02:51
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Being able to use tiny and sharp wide angle lenses with 0 distortion and no CA is also nice.
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Mar 19, 2009 02:57
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Rednik posted:Coming from Kiev, I've heard enough to instantly dismiss the Kiev cameras due to their unreliability and hit-or-miss construction. However, I'm not particularly knowledgeable about either Zorkis or FEDs, though of course I do love their styling. However, I'm still concerned about quality, particularly with the street stall atmosphere of camera shops in the former Soviet Union. How will I know the light meter and shutter are properly calibrated? At least the price would be low, I suppose. Shutter may be hit or miss, but most of them don't have a light meter to worry about (if they do it's usually selenium and crappy). I'm not sure if they handle smaller stuff like the 35mm rangefinders, but I know some Ukrainian eBay sellers actually specialize in taking brand new Russian medium format gear and overhauling it/subjecting it to actual quality control standards. They charge a premium for this of course, but it's not outrageous. Honestly, I'd recommend something Russian for your trip. If it's old looking and has a bunch of Cyrillic on it, I doubt any thieves will be interested because they know it isn't worth poo poo. I used to get Chinese people wandering up and commenting on/admiring my Seagull or Mudan TLR's when I lived in Beijing, but everyone seemed to "know" that old stuff made there = crap. Plus, you get the nostalgia factor of photographing a country with a camera from there. If you don't need interchangeable lenses, something like an Olympus XA is pretty nice and fits easily in a pocket. The original XA has a sharp 35mm f/2.8 lens, aperture-priority shooting, and a rangefinder. The later ones use zone-focus and aren't as nice, IMO.
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Mar 19, 2009 03:04
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I know some Ukrainian eBay sellers actually specialize in taking brand new Russian medium format gear and overhauling it/subjecting it to actual quality control standards. They charge a premium for this of course, but it's not outrageous. Got a link to these sellers? I'm pretty interested.
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Mar 19, 2009 03:17
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Lambster Bisque posted:Got a link to these sellers? I'm pretty interested. Hartblei does (you can order from their website), there's also a seller in NY on eBay that sells Hartblei's refurbs in the States.
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Mar 19, 2009 03:35
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Hartblei does (you can order from their website), there's also a seller in NY on eBay that sells Hartblei's refurbs in the States. Thanks for this, been looking for some proper Russian MF equipment for a while now.
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Mar 19, 2009 03:42
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Hartblei does (you can order from their website), there's also a seller in NY on eBay that sells Hartblei's refurbs in the States. drat you. That guy is cheap! $335 for 88CM or $200 for the original 88! The only real difference is the mount? Which one is more practical?
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Mar 19, 2009 04:12
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Associate Christ
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Hartblei does (you can order from their website), there's also a seller in NY on eBay that sells Hartblei's refurbs in the States. I actually ordered a Kiev 88 from this seller. I ordered a cheap model which got all of the "hartblei upgrades" except for the pentacon six mount. I told myself this would only be a side hobby, and I wouldn't be buying any other lenses in the future, so the mount didn't matter to me. Shipping time to Canada was pretty standard. The packaging was very, very cheap. It was just a mailing box with old newspapers and pieces of styrofoam surrounding the plastic-wrapped various pieces of the camera. The original box was not included. I've had the for a while now, and it seems to be functioning flawlessly. I don't know if there're any light leaks yet, but I doubt it. I'm actually developing my first roll of film tonight, so if anything comes up, I'll update. Edit: Kaluza-Klein posted:drat you. That guy is cheap! $335 for 88CM or $200 for the original 88! The only real difference is the mount? Which one is more practical? The pentacon six mount doesn't seem like a super big deal to me. Aside from the standard 80mm lens, the only other lens I'm interested in is the 45mm, which is available in both mounts. There're probably awesome exotic P6 mount lenses that I don't know about (nor can I afford).
CanuckBassist fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Mar 19, 2009 |
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Mar 19, 2009 04:13
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Finding a rangefinder to take would be a great idea, but if it were me, I'd go shopping for a souveneir camera over there. That may or may not be actually practical but if you can go native for a bit, Russian camera, Russian film, and if they are Fedka cheap here you'd think they'd be cheaper over there.
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Mar 19, 2009 04:40
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CanuckBassist posted:I actually ordered a Kiev 88 from this seller. I ordered a cheap model which got all of the "hartblei upgrades" except for the pentacon six mount. I told myself this would only be a side hobby, and I wouldn't be buying any other lenses in the future, so the mount didn't matter to me. What exactly is the B screw mount on the 88? Is it known by another name?
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Mar 19, 2009 04:42
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Kaluza-Klein posted:What exactly is the B screw mount on the 88? Is it known by another name? It's supposed to be called the B mount, I believe, but whenever I see lenses for the B mount on eBay or any online store, they state "For Kiev88/Salyut/Salut". "Don't want two consecutive posts" edit: Just developed my first roll of film since high school. My paterson tank leaks! 
CanuckBassist fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Mar 19, 2009 |
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Mar 19, 2009 05:00
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What causes this to happen to only certain exposures in a roll of film? I want to think it's part of the development, but wouldn't it at least show up in part of another exposure too? This only affected exposures 4, 6, 9, and 10. Click here for the full 640x640 image.
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Mar 19, 2009 21:53
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gib posted:Did Nikon even make any LTM cameras? No they didn't, but they did make LTM lenses.
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Mar 20, 2009 08:09
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First day of Spring and for some reason it's snowing in NJ. I think I'm gonna head out and shoot some Tri-X, but I'm not sure if I should trust the meter on my Nikon F100 in the snow. I know that snow can be deceiving since it's so much brighter than it looks to the naked eye. Any suggestions?
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Mar 20, 2009 13:53
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Your meter wants to expose for 13% gray. Bring a digital along to help nail exposure before setting your film camera. http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/zone_system.shtml quote:The first thing you need to know is that exposure meters are dumb, really dumb. They are clueless about what they're photographing. They assume that all scenes have the same average tonal value — middle gray — roughly Zone 5 in the chart below. If a scene is different, for example a snow scene, it will be exposed incorrectly. It will come out middle gray — underexposed. If you follow the meter's reading, every scene will have the same average middle gray density. You'll get lots of bad exposures, especially if you photograph in difficult light.
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Mar 20, 2009 14:18
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pwn posted:Your meter wants to expose for 13% gray. Bring a digital along to help nail exposure before setting your film camera. Well, it seems that within this short time, the sun came out and melted all of the snow. But thanks for the info, I'll remember it for the future. It must take quite a bit of experience to try to do it without a digital camera as a backup. It's beyond me, that's for sure. I'm most interested in how people were able to go out and take decent pictures before the invention of light meters and having to shoot fully manual without anything giving a starting point. j883376 fucked around with this message at 14:28 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 14:24
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j883376 posted:Well, it seems that within this short time, the sun came out and melted all of the snow. But thanks for the info, I'll remember it for the future. But I could never have gotten into this without being able to learn on digital.
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Mar 20, 2009 14:32
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pwn posted:Definitely more time-consuming. It forces you to understand the rules of exposure and, in the case of older gear without modern conveniences, the zone system. Digital camera or not, though, your images aren't going to be as good as they can be until you learn this. Digital just makes those initial stages much easier, faster and relatively cheaper to learn. I understand the concepts; Larger aperture, more light, etc. But I would never be able to walk out on a sunny day with 200 ISO film and set myself an aperture and shutter speed without a point of reference. I really don't think there's any way to be able to do that without a lot of trial and error. I did most of my learning on my dad's D70. Then he gave me his old N2020 to use. After using that, I decided to buy my own F100 and use his old lenses. Gotta love Nikon F-mount interoperability.
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Mar 20, 2009 14:35
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j883376 posted:I understand the concepts; Larger aperture, more light, etc. But I would never be able to walk out on a sunny day with 200 ISO film and set myself an aperture and shutter speed without a point of reference. I really don't think there's any way to be able to do that without a lot of trial and error. Also, having an F4 for a whole month now, which is pretty much a slightly older F100, and having shot roughly a dozen rolls of colour negs, colour slides, and B&W through it, I can attest to how good the metering is in them. The other day I did shots in a high contrast park scene where sunlight was falling on a tree, and the subject was standing against the tree. I wanted the background to be less exposed than the tree, with the tree/subject being perfectly exposed. The exposures came out a bit darker in the background than I wanted, a fact which I will compensate for in the future. Definitely trial-and-error, but the more you get to knowing the stuff the easier it'll be. edit: Interested in dumping the D70? I'd love to replace my D40. :X edit 2: This set is a good example. A roll of TMax 400, pushed to 800, walkabout without aid of a digital, taken like 2 days after I got my lovely F4. Thing's a dream. 
pwn fucked around with this message at 14:48 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 14:40
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With my FM2n I'm now more or less able to take it out of my bag, set a shutter speed and aperture on the camera, lift it to my eye and normally be within a stop of what the meter recommends. I'm still thankful for the meter but I reckon I'd be able to get by without it, just I'd have to bracket a little more often. It all comes with experience, if you pay attention you should be able to learn it pretty quickly.
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Mar 20, 2009 14:46
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pwn posted:edit: Interested in dumping the D70? I'd love to replace my D40. :X It's not mine to dump.  My dad still actively uses it. Unless he switches to something newer, I doubt it's going anywhere.
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Mar 20, 2009 15:17
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Reichstag posted:It's actually you who is retarded.
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Mar 20, 2009 15:23
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Been thinking of getting an EOS 5 for casual concert shoots because it has a built-in AF assist lamp and seems to be decently rugged. I've found that shooting manual focus with my Pentax MX is very difficult in low light on moving subjects and I'm messing up a lot of otherwise decent shots because they're a little (or sometimes a lot) out of focus. Any thoughts?
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Mar 20, 2009 15:52
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HPL posted:Been thinking of getting an EOS 5 for casual concert shoots because it has a built-in AF assist lamp and seems to be decently rugged. I've found that shooting manual focus with my Pentax MX is very difficult in low light on moving subjects and I'm messing up a lot of otherwise decent shots because they're a little (or sometimes a lot) out of focus. Any thoughts? I have an A2 (US name for the EOS-5). I like it a lot. The 5-point AF isn't as fast as the modern 9-point systems in the DSLRs (XTi, 40D, 5D) but it does seem pretty accurate. The AF-assist is only partially blocked by bigger lenses like the 35L (with hood). It still works fine when only partially blocked. It's kind of a chunky camera, but it is light weight and pretty solid feeling despite having a plastic exterior. If they're available, you might want to get a different focusing screen just so you can check the AF before taking the shot.
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Mar 20, 2009 19:37
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gib posted:I have an A2 (US name for the EOS-5). I like it a lot. The 5-point AF isn't as fast as the modern 9-point systems in the DSLRs (XTi, 40D, 5D) but it does seem pretty accurate. The AF-assist is only partially blocked by bigger lenses like the 35L (with hood). It still works fine when only partially blocked. Speed isn't the concern so much as focusing at all, that's why I wanted something with a built-in AF assist that doesn't use the main flash bulb like the current SLRs do. I'd rather have something a little slower but that can actually lock on as opposed to a fast system that hunts and hunts. Right now I have an EOS 1000FN and it's awesome with the AF assist, but the lamp is mounted right next to the flash on the flash head so I have to pop up the flash to get the AF assist to work. What I'm doing right now is pulling up the flash, focusing, snapping the flash down then taking the photo. Would be nice to not have to do that all the time. How is it for noise? From what I'm reading, the 5/A2 is pretty good at keeping things on the down low, which would be great for acoustic shows, but I'd like to hear your opinion.
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Mar 20, 2009 19:46
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HPL posted:Speed isn't the concern so much as focusing at all, that's why I wanted something with a built-in AF assist that doesn't use the main flash bulb like the current SLRs do. I'd rather have something a little slower but that can actually lock on as opposed to a fast system that hunts and hunts. It's pretty quiet for an SLR but not even close to silent. It makes a kind of "clop" sound that is not very metallic or annoying. I've heard it's much quieter than an EOS-3, and it's quieter than a 5DII and XTi as well. If you want to use a DSLR (or a newer film body that supports EX flashes), I suggest the ST-E2. I use it for concert stuff. The ST-E2 might work with non-E-TTL bodies. I could try it out with my EOS-650 if you want. If it works on that for AF-assist it should work on any EOS body.
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Mar 20, 2009 22:17
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gib posted:If you want to use a DSLR (or a newer film body that supports EX flashes), I suggest the ST-E2. I use it for concert stuff. The ST-E2 might work with non-E-TTL bodies. I could try it out with my EOS-650 if you want. If it works on that for AF-assist it should work on any EOS body. I already use a 40D for concerts and important stuff and it's good enough and I plan on getting a 580EX II for the really low light stuff. The EOS 5 would be more for messing around when I'm not on assignment for stuff like where I'm going to see a band on my own time and bringing the camera along for the hell of it. The less extra stuff to carry around the better.
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Mar 20, 2009 22:35
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HPL posted:I already use a 40D for concerts and important stuff and it's good enough and I plan on getting a 580EX II for the really low light stuff. The EOS 5 would be more for messing around when I'm not on assignment for stuff like where I'm going to see a band on my own time and bringing the camera along for the hell of it. The less extra stuff to carry around the better. a 580exII will set you back far more than a good Sunpak strobe kit with a battery pack (which would work for bigger formats) ever would. the 40D has built in sync ports and you should use them.
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Mar 21, 2009 03:58
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a Wizards dick posted:a 580exII will set you back far more than a good Sunpak strobe kit with a battery pack (which would work for bigger formats) ever would. the 40D has built in sync ports and you should use them. I need the 580 more for the AF assist with the 40D than anything else. I already have 3 285HVs and Cybersyncs for throwing light.
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Mar 21, 2009 04:19
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