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Veins McGee posted:I'm looking at getting a Full Traction 3" Economy lift and OME Shocks. Is there anything else I need that isn't included in this? SYE I would imagine. The point of a transfer case lowering kit is so that you don't need a sye. Having a sye and proper shaft is better, but I made out fine with a xfer case 1" drop on my 4.5" lift with no ill effects.
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Mar 19, 2009 23:12
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Veins McGee posted:I'm looking at getting a Full Traction 3" Economy lift and OME Shocks. Is there anything else I need that isn't included in this? SYE I would imagine. I've been watching threads about OME's gear at Jeepforum lately, and there's been a bit of a stink about where their ride quality has gone with their shocks from people who have bought them in the last few months. From what I've seen, the culprit has been the shocks offered with the heavy duty TJ kit - you didn't say what Jeep you have, but you didn't mention leafs so I can only assume. If you don't have a lot of bumper weight, consider going with their "comfort" shocks, which are supposedly very close to OEM, or check out someone else like Bilstein. For example, the heavy duty TJ shocks that have been getting bad press are model N66, and the same "comfort" shock is N66C.
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Mar 20, 2009 02:59
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incredibull posted:I've been watching threads about OME's gear at Jeepforum lately, and there's been a bit of a stink about where their ride quality has gone with their shocks from people who have bought them in the last few months. From what I've seen, the culprit has been the shocks offered with the heavy duty TJ kit - you didn't say what Jeep you have, but you didn't mention leafs so I can only assume. If you don't have a lot of bumper weight, consider going with their "comfort" shocks, which are supposedly very close to OEM, or check out someone else like Bilstein. I've read a little about that on Jeep Forums. I anticipate getting bumpers and winch so I'll suffer through crappy ride quality until I get those closer to the end of the summer. Edit: Pro-Comp Tires: Yay or Nay? vains fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Mar 20, 2009 |
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Mar 20, 2009 18:46
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Veins McGee posted:I've read a little about that on Jeep Forums. I anticipate getting bumpers and winch so I'll suffer through crappy ride quality until I get those closer to the end of the summer. Nay. I don't subscribe to the "the you what you pay for" mentality, but in this case, I think it applies. I have a few friends that run the mud terrains, xtreme muds, and the all terrains, and they just arent great in any category. If you're looking for a mud terrain or an aggressive all terrain, consider the firestone destination MT. Best loving tire I have ever had.
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Mar 20, 2009 20:40
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Veins McGee posted:
Nay. I've had 2 sets of All-Terrains (31's and 33's) and while they're quiet and wear well, and are decent in the snow, they're also ugly, look cheap, and aren't good off-road at all.
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Mar 20, 2009 20:40
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Look at maxxis for a good tire. I think I'm sticking with the Goodyear mtrs simply because I'm going to get 3 and use the spare since it's never been used. So for now I'll keep the 31s and get 1.75" spacers for the front since the nose is about 2" lower than the rear. Then later down the road I'll look into getting a suspension system proper. I want to wheel my LJ this summer and see what I do and don't like, instead of getting a 2" lift now then later one getting another lift.
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Mar 20, 2009 21:19
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jonathan posted:If you're looking for a mud terrain or an aggressive all terrain, consider the firestone destination MT. Best loving tire I have ever had. If you're on a budget and not looking to wheel in much mud, I'd also look into the General Grabber AT2s. I've recently put a set on a beater Toyota and I get better traction than my BFGoodrich A/Ts in most cases, and yes this includes snow and ice. I'm not entirely certain how long they'll last, nor how strong their sidewalls are.
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Mar 20, 2009 21:27
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TrXus M/T's are the best tire I've ran, they're excellent on the road, and chew through mud and rocks. They're really cheap too, and the sidewalls are thick as hell (at least on the 33's I had)
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Mar 20, 2009 21:36
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Jack_Handey posted:TrXus M/T's are the best tire I've ran, they're excellent on the road, and chew through mud and rocks. They're really cheap too, and the sidewalls are thick as hell (at least on the 33's I had) These are a great tire, better than the bfg mud terrain km2's, a little worse than the firestone destinations (the lug depth and spacing make them gum up easier) but a lot of people have issues getting them balanced. That's the only common complaint.
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Mar 20, 2009 23:45
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My favorites: BF Goodrich KM2 / Krawler Goodyear MTR I'm looking at a set of TrXus MT's down the road for a set of spare trail wheels. Surplus Hummer 2 piece beadlock/run flat wheels are cheap, and I can get a set of TrXus's in 37" with a 16.5" wheel. I can't get the BFG Baja's krawler style tire or Goodyear MTR in 16.5" size unless you are in the military or want to pay 600-700$ by a supplier who will sell to the public. Right now I'm running BFGoodrich A/T's but I wished I got the KM2's. Nothing wrong with the A/T's at all, its a nice, even wearing, quiet tire that's decent in most environments. I have 2 friends running TrXus's on their H1's, and if it holds on rocks, mud and snow on an 7000-8000 lb truck, it should be great on a jeep. I was looking at the IROK's as well.. had a friend selling a set of 5 beadlocked/runflat wheels with 6 42" iroks.. I was interested in buying but... 42" tires? 
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Mar 21, 2009 03:59
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Rhyno posted:I dont have a voltmeter of my own so I can't check. I did run to an Autozone and had them check the battery, it's fine so I'm going with the alternator. You should pick up a $10 digital voltmeter while you're at autozone, just sayin.
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Mar 22, 2009 22:07
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Rhyno posted:Even though the battery has enough juice to start the car (wont keep running) and run the lights/stereo etc? However, the root cause of my initial battery drain, like in the case of your Celica, has yet to be determined. I probably have an exposed wire close to/touching the frame, and when the circuit completes, the battery is being continually depleted. I will have a dead battery again in weeks/months if I don't figure out and fix this issue. Aside from the wire hypothesis, it could be a faulty component with an internal short, such as the alternator. Now that the snow is melted, I can start poking around for where this short might be. tl;dr: Get a "load test" on the battery from a battery store, but keep looking for where the drain is.
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Mar 23, 2009 03:13
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Gavitron posted:You should pick up a $10 digital voltmeter while you're at autozone, just sayin. I did have this thought and snagged one. xopher.white posted:
Sounds like a good idea. So it was the alternator, the first one Autozone gave me didn't fit so I had to run back and swap for another one. They felt bad about me wasting my time so they gave me a $5 giftcard. I love autozone! Anyways, got the new one in, put on the new serpentine bet, buttoned everything up, held my breath and turned the key. Same result as before, sputtere to a stop. Tried again and she stayed alive. Turned it off, turned the key again and she started up strong. Drove around the neighborhood and all seemed good and well. So I'm feeling good about myself when friday night she starts giving me poo poo again, sputtering, only running while gassing etc. On the 6th or 7th try she stayed alive and I made it home and she hasn't done it again since but it's still a concern so I think I'll do that test like xopher suggested.
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Mar 23, 2009 06:27
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How do you remove the power antenna on an XJ? I've read conflicting reports; some say remove the inner fenderwell, some say the whole fender, and some say go in through the passenger footwell.
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Mar 24, 2009 00:33
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Hrmmm, Rough Country now has spherical bearings/heim joints on their control arms. The 6.5" XJ lift kit is under $900 and the control arm drop bracket kit is only an extra $200. This kit just became very tempting. Anyone know how the RC 9000 upgrade shocks are ? I had the 8000 hydro shocks in a different XJ and they were pretty harsh. Is there another long travel shock out there that wont break the bank but won't be harsh over bumps ? The 8000's used to rattle the jeep even when just driving over those dotted line reflectors in the middle of the road. Bonus portrait of my newest XJ from this weekend coming back from a camping trip: 
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Mar 24, 2009 12:30
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Anyone do any significant towing with their XJ? I'm planning on buying a pop up camper and taking road trips, so the Jeep would be fully loaded with two adults, one child and all the gear associated with camping and probably a paddle board strapped to the roof, in addition to a medium sized pop up. Think a stock XJ would handle this ok or would it be a good idea for some mods to help it out?
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Mar 25, 2009 03:43
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I have a question: As I think I've previously mentioned I have an '06 TJ with a 2" suspension lift and 32" BFG Mud Terrains on the stock 15" TJ Sport wheels. The 32" tires rub a bit on the swaybar at full lock. I will be getting a 4" lift in the not too distant future, but I was also thinking about getting a set of 1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers to move the tires out to take care of the rub. Is there any reason why I shouldn't run wheel spacers? I know aftermarket wheels with the right offset would accomplish the same thing but I like the stock wheels. I'm concerned with things like added stress/wear on wheel bearings/hubs/differentials/etc. I have heard some people on other forums say it'll make my Jeep eat wheel bearings and can cause weak differentials to go boom, but I've heard other people say that's not true. Any opinions here? Edit: Also, would I need to be concerned about the spacer coming loose and my wheels falling off??
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Mar 25, 2009 04:36
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leica posted:Anyone do any significant towing with their XJ? XJ's are designed to tow up to 5,000 pounds. The brakes could be a bit more powerful, and don't expect to pass anyone on the freeway, but they take off from a stop without any complaint. Here's a repost from earlier in the thread of my Jeep pulling my dad's big loving boat.  Click here for the full 1365x1024 image.
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Mar 25, 2009 05:33
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I put my Ninja up for sale, and will be buying a Wrangler when it sells. We've been having too much fun lately off-roading my friends lifted XJ and another friends Nissan Titan. I've got a new Silverado but I'm not going to bash it up.
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Mar 26, 2009 20:02
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323LX posted:I have a question: As I think I've previously mentioned I have an '06 TJ with a 2" suspension lift and 32" BFG Mud Terrains on the stock 15" TJ Sport wheels. The 32" tires rub a bit on the swaybar at full lock. I will be getting a 4" lift in the not too distant future, but I was also thinking about getting a set of 1.25" Spidertrax wheel spacers to move the tires out to take care of the rub. Is there any reason why I shouldn't run wheel spacers? I know aftermarket wheels with the right offset would accomplish the same thing but I like the stock wheels. I'm concerned with things like added stress/wear on wheel bearings/hubs/differentials/etc. I have heard some people on other forums say it'll make my Jeep eat wheel bearings and can cause weak differentials to go boom, but I've heard other people say that's not true. Any opinions here? I run spidertrax spacers on my Cherokee with no problems, there's no difference between having wheel spacers and having wheels with less backspacing, another inch isn't going to bother your Jeep at all, the stock wheels have a LOT of backspacing as it is. That being said, for less money you could get a set of 15x8" steel wheels with 4" of backspacing or so. Factory backspacing for all XJ's, TJs and YJs is 5.25". I think they start at about $33 each on quadtratec and go up from there. Wheel spacers are $120 for two I think? Your tires will also wear better with a wider wheel too.
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Mar 26, 2009 20:08
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Is there a general 4x4 or wheeling thread in AI (not just jeep specific) ?
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Mar 28, 2009 00:28
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I think this is it, unless someone wants to start a new one... http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2755109
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Mar 28, 2009 00:42
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Anyone know offhand if the temperature gauge sender from an '89 or '87 cherokee will work ok in a '96?
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Mar 29, 2009 03:57
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Okay new problem. Prior to my adventures in alternator land my Jeep was making a weird noise. The best way I can describe it is a gurgling noise coming from the engine. I had a pretty bad coolant leak which lead me to finding 2 holes in the upper radiator hose which I replaced but I still have a coolant leak somewhere, it's hitting the fan and spitting all over the engine bay. Ideas where the leak could be?
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Mar 29, 2009 04:04
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Rhyno posted:Okay new problem. Water pump will weep from the bottom I think. If that's it it's an easy fix, 3 maybe 4 bolts total. Do thermostat for shits and giggles.
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Mar 29, 2009 04:10
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Water pump will weep from the bottom I think. If that's it it's an easy fix, 3 maybe 4 bolts total. Do thermostat for shits and giggles. I checked and didn't see/feel anything on the WP but I'll give it a better look tomorrow in the light.
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Mar 29, 2009 04:15
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Pixelated posted:Anyone know offhand if the temperature gauge sender from an '89 or '87 cherokee will work ok in a '96? I don't think so, later XJ's had the Coolant Temp Sensor and the gauge sender serve as one unit. I know when I swapped a '98 4.0 into my '91 Xj i had to drill and tap my thermostat housing to put the temp sensor in there instead of drilling/tapping the head to put it where it is on an older XJ Jack_Handey fucked around with this message at 06:55 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 06:53
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the hole and wiring are definitely there. Mine has both the thermostat housing sensor and the sender at the back of the head. I know the connector is different, but that's been changed by the PO to the older type. Don't know where the original was from, but it was the old style with the threaded stud sticking out.
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Mar 29, 2009 10:56
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Quick stupid question. If I go from 245 75 16s(31s) to 265 75 16s(32s) will there be a problem having a 245 as a spare? I'm thinking no but just want to be sure.
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Mar 30, 2009 23:30
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poo poo. It seems as if my rear hatch's electric lock is hosed. I use the door switch lock to unlock the doors, everything unlocks, but when I flip the switch to lock all the doors, the rear hatch won't lock. This means everytime I exit the vehicle I have to use my key on the hatch to make sure it's locked otherwise it's open to thieves. Do I have to start pulling panels apart ? How does it unlock but not lock ?
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Mar 31, 2009 01:50
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Quick stupid question. As long as you only use the spare to get you somewhere where you can get the 'normal' tire repaired you should be fine. However, if you're planning on driving on the spare for an extended period of time your drivetrain won't like it. You'll just have to make sure they don't rotate it in when you have a normal rotation (if you don't rotate your tires yourself that is). Some places will always rotate the spare in when you do a rotation if you have a full size spare.
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Mar 31, 2009 02:19
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jonathan posted:poo poo. It seems as if my rear hatch's electric lock is hosed. I use the door switch lock to unlock the doors, everything unlocks, but when I flip the switch to lock all the doors, the rear hatch won't lock. This means everytime I exit the vehicle I have to use my key on the hatch to make sure it's locked otherwise it's open to thieves. I was on the other side of the coin, where my rear hatch was permanently closed, even if I used the key. Surprisingly emasculating to tell the guys they'll have to put their gear in the back through the side door of your jeep.  I hosed around with the panels but gave up and had my mechanic do it when he was looking at some electrical problems.
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Mar 31, 2009 15:51
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jonathan posted:Bonus portrait of my newest XJ from this weekend coming back from a camping trip: heh, I love BC - Same weekend. (Weaver Lake)  Click here for the full 640x480 image. I only wish I had remembered to bring a 'real' camera, and avoided the cellphone shot.
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Apr 1, 2009 10:06
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Quick stupid question. Both of your axles are limited slip when unlocked, so you don't want to do that. At the very least it can cause handling issues as the LSD will act like the smaller tire is slipping. Worst case, you can burn up the LS clutches during your drive home - the 1" difference in size probably isn't enough to do this, though.
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Apr 1, 2009 16:04
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WOW, I did not know that unlocked the axles were limited slip. Even more awesome. I think I'll just stick with 31s for now.
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Apr 1, 2009 20:45
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:WOW, I did not know that unlocked the axles were limited slip. Even more awesome. I think I'll just stick with 31s for now. Realistically you'd be ok if you ran a 31 and a 32 in the front, but it's not something I'd do for extended distances. I can't imagine your spider gears would appreciate that.
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Apr 1, 2009 21:04
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Sorry for the bad info! SM appears to know more about the Rube axles than I do. Did you buy a lift yet?
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Apr 1, 2009 22:12
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incredibull posted:Sorry for the bad info! SM appears to know more about the Rube axles than I do. I think what I'm going to do is put 1.75" spacers up front to raise the nose up since the winch and bumper have lowered it some on top of its already nose down stance. Then new tires and run it this summer and see what I do and don't like. Then go from there.
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Apr 1, 2009 23:13
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Does anyone here with a Cherokee have experience installing an aftermarket DIN stereo? There's basically just a large hole in the dashboard and my experiences have been any DIN-style stereo basically just sits in the hole supported by some flimsy plastic bracket supplied to you for free from Crutchfield. I just ordered a Radio Mounting Dash Kit from a random website (a different site, actually - I got it for under $10) and was wondering if anyone here has used anything like this or has any better suggestions for aftermarket stereo installation. I have a 1990 Cherokee for reference. I was also looking at screwing a completely separate basket-type thing for the stereo under the dashboard but I would need to go take a look at it in the morning to see how feasible that would be.
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Apr 2, 2009 07:59
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leica posted:Anyone do any significant towing with their XJ? I'm planning on buying a pop up camper and taking road trips, so the Jeep would be fully loaded with two adults, one child and all the gear associated with camping and probably a paddle board strapped to the roof, in addition to a medium sized pop up. Think a stock XJ would handle this ok or would it be a good idea for some mods to help it out? In 1996, the radiator hoses on my grandparents' 34' motorhome (~17k lb) crapped the bed going up Monarch Pass - something like a 6% grade. As it was towing a then-new XJ, my 90-year-old grandfather pushed that poo poo up a couple miles to the next pulloff.  Didn't overheat, somehow.
OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 08:34 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 08:31
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