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dayman posted:2.5RS's are amazing cars. They're quite light for AWD; 2850lbs. Turn in response is awesome, they're unbeatable in snow and gravel, well behaved in auto-x. It will be slow compared to your cobra. If you can get over that fact, then you will not be disappointed. You also can't beat them in the looks department. Looks just like my buddy's swapped RS, I believe he has a JDM V7 motor in it.  Gorgeous cars.
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Mar 20, 2009 16:38
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that's because it is your buddy's car. Sup fellow goon.
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Mar 20, 2009 16:58
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2.5's are brutally reliable as well. Anecdotal, but a friend of mine owned a 2000 RS and beat the poo poo out of it. Brakes down to the backing plates, check engine light on since he bought it, no fluid or spark plug changes whatsoever. He drove like this for two years before I finally helped him tune it up because it was running "a little rough". New fluids, plugs and filters and it was running like a million bucks again.
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Mar 20, 2009 17:08
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dayman posted:that's because it is your buddy's car. Sup fellow goon. drat looks like someone finally decided to stop lurking and reg'd, took you long enough!
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Mar 20, 2009 18:00
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I really want a 2.5rs with a sti swap:( sigh. Someone give me 20,000$
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Mar 20, 2009 22:53
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Lando posted:I really want a 2.5rs with a sti swap:( sigh. Someone give me 20,000$ I will happily sell you my swap for 17k. Hope that helps...
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Mar 20, 2009 22:55
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Lando posted:I really want a 2.5rs with a sti swap:( sigh. Someone give me 20,000$ Keep your eyes peeled for deals on rs25.com http://www.rs25.com/forums/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=1739 That one stopped being listed, so I assume he sold it.
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Mar 20, 2009 22:56
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You can get swapped RSes for pretty cheap on RS25, but they're all either incomplete projects or half-assed with problems. It becomes really hard to justify the money for a nicely done swap if you're getting into actual STi territory.
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Mar 20, 2009 23:48
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Mr. Powers posted:You can get swapped RSes for pretty cheap on RS25, but they're all either incomplete projects or half-assed with problems.
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Mar 21, 2009 00:43
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most of the problem with swapped cars is irregularity of installation styles. That's why professionally installed swaps sell for more than DIY ones.
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Mar 21, 2009 01:47
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Anyone else get an e-mail from Subaru today offering free tickets to an advanced screening of Fast and the Furious 4? According to the 'voucher' they had me print, my tickets are "in the mail"  It's going to be so bad... I can't wait! 
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Mar 21, 2009 03:08
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Stopped by the body shop today to look at my poor loving butchered car I swear to god I heard it crying. Oh wait, that was me, and my diminished resale value. Doing the timing belt and tensioner while everything is a apart.
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Mar 21, 2009 03:43
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If you have extra cash I say you should paint the side-skirts as well. I did that on my dad's silver WRX and it really just made it look better.
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Mar 21, 2009 04:06
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CharlesM posted:If you have extra cash I say you should paint the side-skirts as well. I did that on my dad's silver WRX and it really just made it look better. To be honest I kinda really like the black side skirts. I have strange tastes when it comes to cars, I also like the stock bugeye wheels as well, better than most aftermarket wheels. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 04:16 on Mar 21, 2009 |
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Mar 21, 2009 04:13
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Still waiting on the body shop, they say it won't be done till late next week 
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Mar 21, 2009 09:05
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TurboLuvah posted:To be honest I kinda really like the black side skirts. I have strange tastes when it comes to cars, I also like the stock bugeye wheels as well, better than most aftermarket wheels.  
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Mar 21, 2009 14:50
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TurboLuvah posted:To be honest I kinda really like the black side skirts. I have strange tastes when it comes to cars, I also like the stock bugeye wheels as well, better than most aftermarket wheels. I am rollin' on bugeye wheels for snow tires. Although, I did paint them. I like the pattern of them, and they often look really nice painted to better match a car. I went with dark gray (slightly lighter than the DGM of the car) and did a red lip, and I think it looks awesome.
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Mar 21, 2009 16:22
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TurboLuvah posted:To be honest I kinda really like the black side skirts. I have strange tastes when it comes to cars, I also like the stock bugeye wheels as well, better than most aftermarket wheels. You should pick up some UK legacy wheels a la my car. They're the same style as the US 16's, but in 17 and 1/2" wider IIRC. They come in silver too if you're not into the gold bling. Also, I have a feeling you wouldn't be able to say no to some version 7 wheels. I still kinda regret selling mine. edit: also, what the hell happened to your car man? You should get a V7 bumper beam and FMIC while it's all taken apart. 
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Mar 21, 2009 17:15
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dayman posted:You should pick up some UK legacy wheels a la my car. They're the same style as the US 16's, but in 17 and 1/2" wider IIRC. They come in silver too if you're not into the gold bling. Also, I have a feeling you wouldn't be able to say no to some version 7 wheels. I still kinda regret selling mine. I was rear ended and smooshed into the poor girl in front of me. There is very little damage to the rear of the car strange enough, most of the damage is to the front of it. Regarding wheels, I have a full set of 17" 05+ Legact GT wheels that I could use, but I prefer 16" wheels as the tires are cheaper. I'm trying to get someone to swap a set of their bugeye 16s for the LGT 17s but haven't had any luck as of yet.
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Mar 21, 2009 18:13
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I should start by saying that I know absolutely dick about cars (I'm trying to learn) and most of this thread goes way over my head. That said, I've always loved Subarus and I've driven a cousin's 07 WRX a few times and had a blast. I can't afford a newer WRX so I've been checking out craigslist for used cars. How much would you guys expect to pay for an 02 WRX? I'm in California and looking at an 02 WRX right now that has around 70 thousand miles and is pretty much completely stock and the guy wants $8,000 for it. Says there's nothing wrong with it other than a few dents on the hood which he sent a picture of. The dents suck but they look really minor. Does this price seem fair? Since I know nothing about cars I'm planning on taking someone much more knowledgeable with me when I go to check it out later this week. Any advice for things to look out for when I go look at it would be appreciated. There's also another really clean 02 but with twice the miles and the guy has it listed for the same price. Anything I should know about the differences between an 02 WRX and the 07 that I've actually driven? AngryGuy fucked around with this message at 11:30 on Mar 22, 2009 |
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Mar 22, 2009 10:35
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There have been a number of revisions between the 02 and 07 year models, wikipedia outlines them nicely in more detail. The biggest mechanical one that I can think of is motor displacement. The 02-05 WRX had a 2.0 liter motor where was the 06+ had a 2.5 liter. The other big ones which are obvious are body style updates. 02-03 were the bug eyes (round head lights), 04-05 were blob eyes, 06-07 had the propeller shaped front grille. Interior updteas, suspension updates, brake updates... Ultimately, you're still looking at the same chassis, just new bits/pieces that updated the car in general. All that said, they're all fun as heck and worth it.
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Mar 22, 2009 13:58
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TurboLuvah posted:I was rear ended and smooshed into the poor girl in front of me. There is very little damage to the rear of the car strange enough, most of the damage is to the front of it. Regarding wheels, I have a full set of 17" 05+ Legact GT wheels that I could use, but I prefer 16" wheels as the tires are cheaper. I'm trying to get someone to swap a set of their bugeye 16s for the LGT 17s but haven't had any luck as of yet.
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Mar 22, 2009 15:55
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AngryGuy posted:I should start by saying that I know absolutely dick about cars (I'm trying to learn) and most of this thread goes way over my head. That said, I've always loved Subarus and I've driven a cousin's 07 WRX a few times and had a blast. I can't afford a newer WRX so I've been checking out craigslist for used cars. How much would you guys expect to pay for an 02 WRX? I'm in California and looking at an 02 WRX right now that has around 70 thousand miles and is pretty much completely stock and the guy wants $8,000 for it. Says there's nothing wrong with it other than a few dents on the hood which he sent a picture of. The dents suck but they look really minor. Does this price seem fair? Since I know nothing about cars I'm planning on taking someone much more knowledgeable with me when I go to check it out later this week. Any advice for things to look out for when I go look at it would be appreciated. Here's a good read that I wrote up a while ago - http://andrewpeng.net/vroom/picking-a-wrx-or-sti
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Mar 22, 2009 16:41
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atomicfire posted:Here's a good read that I wrote up a while ago - http://andrewpeng.net/vroom/picking-a-wrx-or-sti Thanks for this. Good read. Does the price seem fair to you guys if the condition is as advertised?
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Mar 22, 2009 17:41
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I installed a 45mm omori boost gauge on my 2004 Forester a few days ago. Its a pretty nice little thing, but the install guide wasnt exactly clear and I cant find a lot of info from others doing the same install. So, my questions.. Heres under the hood coming off the pressure regulator. This seems right, and its been fine for the few days since I put it in.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image. Heres where I mounted the sending unit. I tried to keep the line out of harms way. Everything look cool?  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. And inside, Ive got it mounted on the steering column. Its getting power off the clock harness. I couldnt find a good wiring diagram telling me which wire was what, and diddnt find anything helpful online. As of now the wires are just stuck in the back of the plug, and its working after a little trial and error. I plan on cutting the leads and using a butt connector or something similar as a permanant fix. Sound ok? Anyone know what colors I should NOT be spliced into? Ive since found a factory pdf diagram of the clock harness, but it diddnt help much. And finally, the thing is BRIGHT at night. Too bright. I plan on sticking a resistor inline to dim it down, as Ive read this gauge doesnt work with the factory dimming. Can I do this without problems? Also, this came with it.  Click here for the full 1200x1600 image. What the hell is it, and should I be using it somewhere? Ive compared the boost the gauge reads with my accessport, and its right at about 12psi. Im running a 91 octane stage 2 stock accessport map with a full turbo back going into a sti muffler. Thanks!!
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Mar 22, 2009 18:07
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That plastic piece is a vacuum line restrictor, it smooths out the flow of boost in the vac line going to the boost gauge so the gauge doesn't flicker or bounce or make noise. You can sometimes get away without using it, but you will be able to tell when you're done if you need it or not. It should also smooth out the needle sweep on the gauge. I had one in line with my 45mm Omori boost gauge and the needle would react too slow to boost, so I pulled itout and it's been fine so far. I used the factory Lamco column pod and retrofitted the Omori gauge, so I used the factory connects behind the radio. It was also and older non-led Omori gauge so it dims with the other dash lights.
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Mar 22, 2009 22:20
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Hmm, ok. Well, its pretty smooth and seems ok so I may not need it. I noticed something though, when I had the accessport hooked up reading boost. The gauge would read about 10psi off from what the accessport read at idle. It matches on boost, though, so Im not worried about it. Ill have to look for the factory gauge harness. It might work better than going through the clock. Plus, my clock light isnt working now. Related? Hmm.. Oh, and a 330k resistor dims it down perfectly. I have a small dimmer pot that I considered putting somewhere, but thought that would be kinda silly. hedgegnome fucked around with this message at 00:52 on Mar 23, 2009 |
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Mar 23, 2009 00:50
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hedgegnome posted:Hmm, ok. Well, its pretty smooth and seems ok so I may not need it. I noticed something though, when I had the accessport hooked up reading boost. The gauge would read about 10psi off from what the accessport read at idle. It matches on boost, though, so Im not worried about it. The clock is probably related, however, these dash clocks are prone to failure, there is a cold solder joint on the back of the clock board that fails and has to be re-soldered, very easy 5 minute fix. Also if you don't want that restrictor you can always drop it in an envelope and send it my way Mr. Powers, here's the the only picture I can find right now, they're in storage I'll try to get shots this week if you want. They're all in great shape except one has about 1" of rash at the edge that some filler was put over. 
TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Mar 23, 2009 |
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Mar 23, 2009 03:03
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Well, the WRX I had my eyes set on got sold out from under me so I'm back on the search. I'm really wondering if I should just suck it up and spend more money than I originally had in mind for my budget. I really didn't want to spend any more than $9,000 which is what 2002 WRXs seem to be going for, but they all have really high mileage and I'm not sure I should be okay with that. Should I be worried about buying a used one with more than 90,000 miles on it? There is another one on craigslist right now just below 90k which hasn't had its service done yet. About how much is this service going to cost me? AngryGuy fucked around with this message at 01:06 on Mar 26, 2009 |
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Mar 26, 2009 01:03
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As long as the car was stock or very close to it, and you could get a compression/leakdown test done and an inspection at a Subaru dealer (~$100) I would say you should have no problem with cars in the 80-100k mile range. The only thing I would really be worried is if it had been ragged on/launched, oil consumption, and shaft play in the turbocharger, which isn't the quickest or easiest thing to check for.
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Mar 26, 2009 01:10
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TurboLuvah posted:As long as the car was stock or very close to it, and you could get a compression/leakdown test done and an inspection at a Subaru dealer (~$100) I would say you should have no problem with cars in the 80-100k mile range. The only thing I would really be worried is if it had been ragged on/launched, oil consumption, and shaft play in the turbocharger, which isn't the quickest or easiest thing to check for. One of them listed right now above 90k is all stock but the other at about 85k says it had some mods done to it but is being put back to stock. I asked for a list of what he had done and he sent this back to me "Right now, the car has an 18G Forced Performance turbo, STI pink injectors, Walbro Fuel pup, 3" exhaust and a HELIX Top mount intercooler. These modifications were on the car for roughly 5K miles on a safe tube performed by Mike at GST Motorsports." I don't really know much at all about the mods that he has done, should I stay far away from this? I know general consensus is to stay away from modded cars. He states in the ad that he just had a compression test done and it passed. He also recently had a new clutch and brake pads put on all around. Thanks for the help.
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Mar 26, 2009 01:16
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AngryGuy posted:One of them listed right now above 90k is all stock but the other at about 85k says it had some mods done to it but is being put back to stock. I asked for a list of what he had done and he sent this back to me "Right now, the car has an 18G Forced Performance turbo, STI pink injectors, Walbro Fuel pup, 3" exhaust and a HELIX Top mount intercooler. These modifications were on the car for roughly 5K miles on a safe tube performed by Mike at GST Motorsports." It's probably fine, but I would chose a stock, un-modded car over one with major turbo/fueling modifications on it at one point. I guess it's personal preference at that point, but as anecdotal evidence if I remember correctly some goon here asked for info on whether or not to buy a modded car, he did against advice and ended up spinning a rod bearing shortly after I think. Just check at the up/downpipe bolts, heat shield and intercooler bolts for signs of removal or tampering on a supposedly "stock," car, many are labled as stock and have had mods removed and put back to stock. Edit: Also, if you can, get oil change records for the cars if the PO's have them, long OCIs on these cars are no good for the turbocharger. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 01:25 on Mar 26, 2009 |
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Mar 26, 2009 01:20
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Do I really need a BOV/BPV for a few weeks? The aftermarket 50MM BOV on my car is leaking (PO installed) and I don't feel like fabbing the parts to repair it ATM. Will the back pressure on the turbo actually be bad for it until I get a stock BPV on there.
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Mar 26, 2009 03:24
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What are you planning to run, just a solid plate? There are a couple guys that are running plates over their IC's. You get compressor surge when the throttle plate closes, which fatigues the compressor blades. Supposedly makes shifting a bit harder as well. I wouldn't recommend it, but It should be okay for a few K miles. Added bonus, it makes your car sound like this. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=469mi4UOVK0 (1:11)
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Mar 26, 2009 03:47
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The BOV plate/flange isn't leaking (that I know of  ) so I was going to remove the T that runs to it and put a straight through.
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Mar 26, 2009 03:59
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AngryGuy posted:One of them listed right now above 90k is all stock but the other at about 85k says it had some mods done to it but is being put back to stock. I asked for a list of what he had done and he sent this back to me "Right now, the car has an 18G Forced Performance turbo, STI pink injectors, Walbro Fuel pup, 3" exhaust and a HELIX Top mount intercooler. These modifications were on the car for roughly 5K miles on a safe tube performed by Mike at GST Motorsports." Mike is a good tuner and if it has good compression I wouldn't be very worried. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Mar 26, 2009 |
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Mar 26, 2009 07:29
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RealKyleH posted:Do I really need a BOV/BPV for a few weeks? The aftermarket 50MM BOV on my car is leaking (PO installed) and I don't feel like fabbing the parts to repair it ATM. Will the back pressure on the turbo actually be bad for it until I get a stock BPV on there. WHen the throttle plate closes quickly when you are in boost, a pressure wave goes back through the intake tract and back through the compressor of the turbo, ususally stalling it completely. It makes a horrendous noise and causes some more bearing wear on the turbo. I run my GTX without a bypass about half the time, but its not exactly a good thing for it. Also, you'd have to block off the recirc port on the intake. Also the MAF will NOT like it, putting air backwards through one will likely have odd reactions by the ECU. Stock bypass valves so rarely fail (Bosch valves are an exception) even with highly increased pressure that just leaving it alone is the best course. That and if you live in a smog state, not having a stupid bright purple thing that obviously isn't stock sounding like a fart won't attract any more attention. DJ Commie fucked around with this message at 08:29 on Mar 26, 2009 |
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Mar 26, 2009 08:27
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jamal posted:Mike is a good tuner and if it has good compression I wouldn't be very worried. That's good to hear. It does seem like the guy took good care of the car so I'll probably at least be taking a look at it as soon as I can make the drive up there. More and more I keep leaning towards spending (a lot) more and getting a newer model WRX/STI though. There do seem to be some excellent deals on used low mile STIs that are still in their warranty period. I can afford it I just don't know if I want the payment. It's definitely what I want the most. So bad at making decisions. 
AngryGuy fucked around with this message at 09:12 on Mar 26, 2009 |
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Mar 26, 2009 09:07
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So although I've never been a Subaru guy before, I've always had a deep, unhealthy love for the '04 STi. I'm currently driving an '06 2.0T VW GTI and madly in love with it, but the heavens have opened up and placed a divine offering in front of me: 5 miles from my house, a private party is selling a white '04 STi for $14,000, and my car's current trade-in value ranges from $13-15,000. The STi has 113,000 miles on it and looks to be in fantastic condition across the board. I've spoken with the seller, and he says he hasn't seen a dime from anyone yet, just a bunch of questions, but he just wants to shoo this thing out the door so he can get an SUV for his wife/kids, and he says that the $14,000 price is just what he has left to pay to the bank, not for making a profit. So here's my question: Am I getting a good deal here? He's not going to budge anywhere below his current asking price, but I'm excited as all hell to give this thing a shot. I've driven stick a couple times before, but I'd definitely need to take some time to learn how to drive a manual properly. The DSG on my GTI can only do so much, you know? But hey, I've been dying for a stickshift car for a while and this just seems like my perfect opportunity. Bonus photo: 
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Mar 27, 2009 11:29
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A quick glance at Kelly Blue Book(yeah yeah yeah...) puts the car under $14,000 American. $13,670 to be exact for the private sale of a car in excellent condition, in Michigan anyhow. I don't know how much the state to state thing would vary.
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Mar 27, 2009 17:09
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