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burtonos posted:A quick glance at Kelly Blue Book(yeah yeah yeah...) puts the car under $14,000 American. $13,670 to be exact for the private sale of a car in excellent condition, in Michigan anyhow. I don't know how much the state to state thing would vary. I ended up looking at it for my area code and got $13,645 for private party, but after looking at the local dealerships and seeing the same car going for almost $20,000, I'd say I'm pretty set. Any major recommendations before I get serious with this guy?
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Mar 27, 2009 18:13
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I guess having a mechanic take a peek at it/kick the tires wouldn't hurt. What's the expected lifespan on the old sti turbo? Personally I'd jump that poo poo. But I don't want you starting that thread because of my silly opinion.
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Mar 27, 2009 20:53
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Menorah on Fire posted:I ended up looking at it for my area code and got $13,645 for private party, but after looking at the local dealerships and seeing the same car going for almost $20,000, I'd say I'm pretty set. Any major recommendations before I get serious with this guy? STis are demanding super high prices here in Chicago too. When I was shopping for my WRX 6 months ago I couldnt find a single STi under $20,000, private party of otherwise, that wasnt a rebuilt title. Im not super knowledgeable on these cars just yet, but I would probably ask to make sure the car was maintained well, had the timing belt and water pump replaced, and ask if that turbo is still stock, as I would imagine its probably not got much life left in it. Althought dont let that deter you, used VF39s are dirt cheap and plentiful, and swapping one out isnt impossible (though I would imagine even with the price of the turbo figured in, your still going to be under $1,000 if your going to have a shop swap it, in which case youve STILL paid a great price for everything in the end.) Oh yeah, I would get a compression check too, just to be on the safe side.
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Mar 27, 2009 21:48
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Print the KBB score and bring it to him. He should be able to give it to you for that price. More importantly though, what shape is it in? It looks like he's done the baked headlight amber removal mod, so that means he has some contact with tuner culture. Ask him what mods, if any, he's done to the car. Ask him if he's ever autocrossed or rallycrossed it. If the answer to these questions is no, I would still do a little snooping, shouldn't be that hard to find him on NASIOC or iwsti. If he's done some power mods, you may want to have a compression/leakdown test done. edit: Bannedforlulz's post reminded me. If you're spending the money for a compression/leakdown, have the mechanic check the turbo for shaft play and cracking around the turbine flange as these are common problems with VF series turbos, especially high mileage ones. It's not the end of the world if it has these problems, and like lulz said, it's a cheap fix especially if you're willing to get your hands dirty. Knowing that you'll have to replace the turbo just serves to drive the price down, saving you money. burtonos posted:I guess having a mechanic take a peek at it/kick the tires wouldn't hurt. The lifespan is whatever you want it to be. As with all cars, as it gets older, parts break and need to be repaired or replaced. You're just starting to see STi's in 100k mileage range now because it's taken this long for them to accumulate the miles, these aren't commuter camry's here. There's a very good chance an unmolested STi will make it well past 100k before anything major breaks, the problem is, most of them have been modded in one way or another, and the vast majority have been driven hard, which affects longevity of parts. Subaru has a very good reputation for reliability, and the quality of the equipment on the STi is in general higher than the base models to allow harder usage. dayman fucked around with this message at 22:32 on Mar 27, 2009 |
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Mar 27, 2009 22:21
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I think the 2004 STi is the least desirable, mostly because of the non bolt-in wheel bearings, different lug spacing (5x100?) and a slightly different differential setup.
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Mar 27, 2009 22:58
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Baby Hitler posted:I think the 2004 STi is the least desirable, mostly because of the non bolt-in wheel bearings, different lug spacing (5x100?) and a slightly different differential setup. yep, 5x100 bearings tend to go pretty often if you autocross or track the car. Check my website for buying information - http://www.andrewpeng.net - on the right under "buying a used wrx or sti" - scroll down to the bottom where it has troubleshooting and checking steps Changes include: Different front differential Different interior (no real cupholder) No stereo (it was an option) Fenders weren't as wide Different width wheels atomicfire fucked around with this message at 00:01 on Mar 28, 2009 |
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Mar 27, 2009 23:16
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Well, I was checking my fluids and so forth for the auto-x tomorrow and discovered something.   There is a slight tear in the boot on the passenger front side. It looks pretty fresh; but, I've no idea how long its been like this. There is no obvious whining or grinding from that side. I will definitely get it fixed. Is the common suggestion to just replace the axles? This is a '99 2.5RS, so I figure its about time to replace them anyways. Anything else I should get replaced while I have them pulling the axles? Only upside, I get to co-drive with my friend in his '04 LGT.
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Mar 28, 2009 02:22
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So I got my car back from the body shop today...the blinkers are blinking extremely fast, and the car promptly overheated about 1 mile from my house (thank god I love about 10 miles from the body shop). Reallll nice. So back it goes tomorrow. I'm guessing it's a bubble in the coolant line somewhere, but who knows, I fear for the head gaskets now  Also, it appears that there is a plastic seal missing around the bottom of the front headlights. Can anyone get me a decent close up shot of a bugeye headlight so I can compare what I have? I have a feeling they didn't use OEM Subaru headlights, which is why they are blinking so fast. Apparently no one can do anything correctly, even when they're paid generously from an insurance company. Edit: Also for some reason, the radio is hosed, it just keeps searching and can't lock onto any stations. They didn't even touch the radio, why would this be hosed up 
TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 13:07 on Mar 28, 2009 |
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Mar 28, 2009 03:00
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Yeah well, the insurance company wanted me to take my car to Circuit City to replace the stolen stereo, and they provided the harnesses to CC too. Well they charged my dad an extra $40 when he picked it up because the kid said he bypassed the amp (B.s., already done), then a few years later I discover they cut the factory harness and wired it that way. Assholes. For the CV boot, I got my Forester from my brother after he had it for quite a few years. There was all kinds of stuff weird with it but I didn't get a chance to check it all out myself. I didn't find out the inner passenger CV boot was bad until it burst open totally and splattered the grease all over the exhaust (I will know what that smell is from now on). The dealer I took it to only replaced the boot (it was the only one I could find that take it the same day, had to drive 800mi the next day) but I have had strange vibrations in the front end from 15-25mph, and I don't know if it could be from that one another CV joint (chances are another one will go some time since one already did).
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Mar 28, 2009 04:49
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TurboLuvah posted:So I got my car back from the body shop today...the blinkers are blinking extremely fast, and the car promptly overheated about 1 mile from my house (thank god I love about 10 miles from the body shop). Reallll nice. So back it goes tomorrow. I'm guessing it's a bubble in the coolant line somewhere, but who knows, I fear for the head gaskets now the antenna is probably disconnected. As for the blinker, fast blinking usually means a bad or missing relay.
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Mar 28, 2009 15:13
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dayman posted:the antenna is probably disconnected. I know, but they said they checked all of the relays, and even tried the old bulbs. I think they loving didn't use OEM Subaru lights and the wiring or something is hosed up, I'm pretty pissed about that. It's getting towed back Monday morning so I'm going to tell them to get it fixed and used Subaru headlights. Also, the antenna, good call I forgot the antenna is on the front, don't really know why they had to disconnect it though it's not in the way of anything.
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Mar 28, 2009 18:02
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I don't know about the bugeyes. But the OEM headlights from Subaru on the older models are clearly stamped. They have "SUBARU" and "Ichikoh" on the glass on the front of the headlight. This is also true for the foglights.
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Mar 28, 2009 18:55
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c355n4 posted:I don't know about the bugeyes. But the OEM headlights from Subaru on the older models are clearly stamped. They have "SUBARU" and "Ichikoh" on the glass on the front of the headlight. This is also true for the foglights. Awesome, thanks for that information. Also, there seems to be a rubber seal missing under the headlight, as there is a large gap under it.
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Mar 28, 2009 18:57
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dayman posted:the antenna is probably disconnected. Without a relay, the lights aren't going to even blink or work. Fast blink means burned out bulb somewhere, the impudence is too low. You're not using LED blinkers, are you?  EDIT: that's right. impudence. fear my lack of spelling
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Mar 28, 2009 20:51
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Impudence or impedance?
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Mar 28, 2009 21:21
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atomicfire posted:Without a relay, the lights aren't going to even blink or work. Fast blink means burned out bulb somewhere, the impudence is too low. You're not using LED blinkers, are you? oops my bad,i more meant like, the wrong relay. but yeah low impedance does this too
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Mar 29, 2009 06:36
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AngryGuy posted:That's good to hear. It does seem like the guy took good care of the car so I'll probably at least be taking a look at it as soon as I can make the drive up there. I had an 03 WRX (replaced it with an 09 Premium yesterday) and ran the 03 up to almost 90k miles before I sold it. I only ran into two big expenses with that car since I bought it 3 years ago. The AC went out right before I sold it, compressor had to be replaced, the mechanic said that it wasn't a common issue. I would just double check it before you buy or it will cost you about $500. Second big expense was the clutch, mine went out at about 65 or 70k miles. I ordered the parts and had a mechanic do it since I was living in an apartment at the time, total cost was about 1000 after parts and labor. Find out if the clutch has recently been replaced, if not plan on having to replace it in the next year. There is a big difference between the bug eye models and the newer 2.5l based models. With the 2.0l (bugeye) you will find yourself getting on the gas a lot more just to get around town because there is so little power in the lower RPMs. The newer (04?) models with the 2.5l motor still have the power up top and putt around town well. Or if you are really adventurous and have good credit you can pick up a new one. I drove off the lot yesterday with a loaded 09 premium for 27000 and 3.9% financing (sticker was 29500). Keep in mind that will put you with a $500/month payment depending on what you put down/trade.
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Mar 29, 2009 15:45
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The 2.5L turbo was introduced to the WRX in 06, the STi in 04 (USDM) and the Legacy GT in 05. The Forester XT got it in 04.
Wrar fucked around with this message at 20:56 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 20:45
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I've narrowed it down to two cars and now just have to make a decision. I'm deciding between a white 06 WRX and a black 06 STI. Both have about 30k miles. The STI is 5 grand more plus the added taxes for the higher cost. It's also still in warranty till 60k miles or 2011. I thought I was decided on the WRX but it's hard to pass up the great deals on STIs that are going on right now. AngryGuy fucked around with this message at 02:20 on Mar 30, 2009 |
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Mar 30, 2009 02:10
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How much do you plan on modding it? If you can swing the 5K and would want the car to be over the limit of the 5spd anyway, might as well get the STI.
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Mar 30, 2009 02:50
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RealKyleH posted:How much do you plan on modding it? If you can swing the 5K and would want the car to be over the limit of the 5spd anyway, might as well get the STI. The 6 speed in the STi is drat near apocalypse-proof. There are teams in Puerto Rico running 9's on the STi's stock 6-speed, but obviously with upgraded axles, clutches, and cv joints. The 5-speed will treat you fine as long as you do not launch it excessively with hard clutch dumps. It's usually the quick hard shift banging it into second that kills it. If you want the WRX, I would suggest the 4EAT automatic <flamesuit> - it handles more power than the 5 speed in stock form. However, if you plan on spending money to upgrade the tranny, then it's a moot point.
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Mar 30, 2009 05:14
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atomicfire posted:If you want the WRX, I would suggest the 4EAT automatic <flamesuit> You need more than a flamesuit, laddie. Driving a auto WRX is a truly awful experience.
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Mar 30, 2009 07:45
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Cat Terrist posted:You need more than a flamesuit, laddie. Driving a auto WRX is a truly awful experience. I have to agree with you there, although I have not driven the later 2.5L turbo models. On the N/A models the transmission has been updated and is significantly smoother and more pleasant to drive, so there may be improvement on the WRX too, but really, I wouldn't recommend the auto to most anyway.
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Mar 30, 2009 08:27
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TurboLuvah posted:Awesome, thanks for that information. Also, there seems to be a rubber seal missing under the headlight, as there is a large gap under it. I'm fairly certain my bugeye headlights have that gap as well. I'll look at them today before I head out.
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Mar 30, 2009 12:20
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atomicfire posted:If you want the WRX, I would suggest the 4EAT Then again that'd be totally lame and no fun at all.
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Mar 30, 2009 20:25
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RealKyleH posted:Then again that'd be totally lame and no fun at all. but if you want all the perks of owning a wagon compact but really hate driving... not a bad option right? 
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Mar 30, 2009 21:45
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I bought a subscription to Subiesport Magazine and when I got my first copy I sent off an Email to them. Today I got my second copy and it has my Email printed in it, woot! Here's a scan... They broke it up so it looks like they're from different people but I can assure you, it's from me. First thing I did was run upstairs and make my roommate read it and she started laughing right away.
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Mar 30, 2009 22:12
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8ender posted:I'm fairly certain my bugeye headlights have that gap as well. I'll look at them today before I head out. I would appreciate that a ton if you could.
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Mar 30, 2009 23:37
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MMD3 posted:but if you want all the perks of owning a wagon compact but really hate driving... not a bad option right? That's what mercury sable and impreza/saabaru wagons are for.
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Mar 31, 2009 00:33
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RealKyleH posted:That's what mercury sable and impreza/saabaru wagons are for. I'm not sure I like what you're implying.
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Mar 31, 2009 02:25
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I am implying the turbo models are for people who like to drive.
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Mar 31, 2009 02:31
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So I've got a bit of a problem with my LGT, and it's freaking me out. It's a 2006 with 22,000 KM on it...last night I drove it home, no problems at all. This morning, I went to take it to work, and it's shuddering hard in first gear. Basically when I start to move, it feels like the clutch lets go, and then suddenly grabs, causing the car to shake back and forth. This sounds like signs of the clutch slipping, but I've never driven the car that hard (in fact, still have my aftermarket uppipe, downpipe, and intercooler waiting to be installed). Furthermore, the car seems to shift just fine into any other gear once I get going. I've read some threads about clutches slipping or chattering on WRX's and older Legacies (particularly in cold weather), but can't find anything regarding mine. It is snowing a bit today, but the clutch never acted weird in the cold before. I don't think it's as a result of negligent driving either - I don't slip the clutch while driving normally, and my Corvette's stock clutch was just fine at 150,000 KM, 70,000 of those put on by me. I'm hoping the problem goes away:(
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Apr 1, 2009 21:10
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My car/shifter/clutch always shudders into first gear. Its not supposed to? lol
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Apr 1, 2009 21:20
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Well, I've noticed that the first gear shift has never been very smooth for me, but this is now accompanied by like a violent 'whip your head forward' rocking motion throughout the entire car.
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Apr 1, 2009 21:31
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So after my drunk friend backed into my car, I will now be needing a new hood. Where can I find a deal on a carbon fiber hood? It seemed that I couldn't order from Seibon directly?
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Apr 1, 2009 22:15
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So, I'd thought I'd chime in with an update about a month after I got my car back having had the transmission replaced. First, the car is still making me giddy. That just seems to tell me how much the busted center diff was affecting both acceleration and handling. I've owned the car for 7 1/2 years and it's been consistently putting a wider smile on my face than it has in a long long time. At first I though it was just from driving another car for a week, but that usually fades not long after I get my car back. Second, the gas mileage has been improving with every tank. At first, it was slightly worse than what it was before the replacement(a very low 19mpg). However, since then I've seen a 20.2, 20.9, 21.3, and just last night I discovered I got 22.6 mpg on my last tank. I guess as the transmission was breaking in, mileage improved. This is after me not breaking out of 20mpg for well over a year if not 2 years. Now I just need to replace the O2 sensor that's throwing the CEL and I may be able to get my 28mpg highway back that used to get all the time when the car was newer.
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Apr 1, 2009 22:51
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TeamIce posted:So I've got a bit of a problem with my LGT, and it's freaking me out. It's a 2006 with 22,000 KM on it...last night I drove it home, no problems at all. This is a long shot given your mileage, but when my center diff was going bad it would exhibit symptoms similar to what you're experiencing. Acceleration would be very rough and i wouldn't be able to put any boost to it. It felt very similar to slipping clutch. Pretty much the only chance its your center diff is if you have a defective one, or you're running mismatched tires. It always happened when the tranny is cold, normally before I had driven 10 miles, which seems similar to your symptoms.
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Apr 2, 2009 01:50
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dayman posted:This is a long shot given your mileage, but when my center diff was going bad it would exhibit symptoms similar to what you're experiencing. Acceleration would be very rough and i wouldn't be able to put any boost to it. It felt very similar to slipping clutch. Pretty much the only chance its your center diff is if you have a defective one, or you're running mismatched tires. It always happened when the tranny is cold, normally before I had driven 10 miles, which seems similar to your symptoms. The odd thing is, is once I 'get going', the car seems fine. Even after the initial sort of jerkiness, I can accelerate and boost without a problem, even in first gear. It's just that initial start that gets really violent.
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Apr 2, 2009 01:57
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FlyWhiteBoy posted:So after my drunk friend backed into my car, I will now be needing a new hood. Where can I find a deal on a carbon fiber hood? It seemed that I couldn't order from Seibon directly? Check ebay. Theres one specific company that is making CF hoods <ugh so tacky> for a pretty good price. They also do a 'you cant destroy it' video that is on their ad. They put some kind of flammable fluid on it, then set it on fire. Smack it with a hammer numerous times, jump up and down on it, and a few other harsh things. Not even a scratch. Seriously..Carbon FIBER! By the way, I'm pretty sure the ricey CF hoods are heavier then stock hoods.
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Apr 2, 2009 11:44
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That is true, many aftermarket hoods weigh more than the stock, especially if you have a WRX. (aluminium, correct?) Also, PLEASE paint your CF hood when you get it, it looks tacky and riced out if you don't.
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Apr 2, 2009 15:29
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