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I lost my key remote to my 03 Impala a year or two ago, and I'd like to get a new one. Do they sell these things at places like Auto Zone? If not, is this a reputable place: http://www.keyless-remotes.com/Detail.bok?chain=Remotes%3AChevrolet%3A2003%3AImpala&no=237
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Apr 1, 2009 17:50
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This was it's own thread because I missed the Stupid Question thread due to HAM overload: I looked (quickly) around for the stupid questions thread, but I couldn't find it. If it shows up again, I'll ask there and close this thread but I have to know: Why don't car enthusiasts in California register their cars? Whenever I see a nice (usually vintage) car in California it's on an ancient plate that hasn't been registered since the 80s, and the owner either is proud that it's not registered, or never makes an effort to get it registered. What's the deal? Am I seeing a pattern where there isn't one, or is this a California thing? Is it that it's such a PITA to get the car registered it's worth it to be rolling illegal and just pay the ticket if/when you get one? Do the cops just not care about registrations, so you never even get pulled over?
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Apr 1, 2009 19:33
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Miss Fats posted:I lost my key remote to my 03 Impala a year or two ago, and I'd like to get a new one. Do they sell these things at places like Auto Zone? I've never bothered checking Autozone, they might. That said, I've had good luck buying them off of eBay, they're so common that they're pretty damned cheap.
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Apr 1, 2009 19:53
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Google couldn't provide me with a good answer, so here I am (again) I have 'full' coverage (That my lien holder requires) on my car. My little brother, 18, just got his license and adding him to my policy would be too costly for him to afford, so he says. He wants to drive my car every so often, so my question is as follows. Can my little brother (18), uninsured, drive my fully insured car (no to often) even if he isn't on the policy. I live in Pennsylvania. His logic is, 'I wont crash it, I JUST got my license.' 
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Apr 1, 2009 19:55
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Dradien posted:Can my little brother (18), uninsured, drive my fully insured car (no to often) even if he isn't on the policy. I live in Pennsylvania. Insurance (essentially) follows the car rather than the driver. How often is too often is between you and your carrier, though—everyone has different standards for when an "occasional" driver needs to actually be on the policy. If he's driving it too often, you would be boned. I'd say driving it at all is too often, but it's your brother and your car. 
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Apr 1, 2009 20:38
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Molten Llama posted:Insurance (essentially) follows the car rather than the driver. It may be different for people you live with, though. I (in CA) had to declare who could potentially drive my car in my household when I got it insured. This was with AAA.
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Apr 1, 2009 20:46
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On Chevy's LS motors what does the number after the LS stand for? I was thinking liters displaced but I guess I am wrong. Also what does single barrel and 4 barrel mean when talking about the engine of a car? OI was reading a magazine and they were talking about the AMC pacer and how it is a "single barrel". I drive a 97 Accord coupe and I need to get my CV steering joints fixed, the rubber (or whatever material) is worn off and when I turn the wheel hard left or right it makes this creaking noise. Mechanic says that it isn't anything to be worried about right now but if the noise gets louder come in to get them replaced. How accurate is that? b0nes fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Apr 1, 2009 |
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Apr 1, 2009 22:40
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Ask Me About Bugs posted:Hey guys, I have a stupid question about a Volvo 740. I took it in to have a funny sound near the engine looked at, and I was told that I had a leak in the exhaust. I'm taking it in next week to get fixed, but my question is, is my car going to kill me before then? I can smell a little bit of exhaust from time to time while I'm driving, and I'm just wondering if this is dangerous. It can be. Keep the windows cracked.
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Apr 1, 2009 22:54
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Dradien posted:Google couldn't provide me with a good answer, so here I am (again) A guy I work with had this same issue. Then his brother smashed up his BMW. His insurance company paid, but made him add his brother to his policy.
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Apr 1, 2009 22:55
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b0nes posted:On Chevy's LS motors what does the number after the LS stand for? I was thinking liters displaced but I guess I am wrong. 1.  2. The number of barrels in the carburetor. No modern car has one of these, it has been surpassed with fuel injection. The more barrels a carb has, the more air it can draw at once and thus the more fuel you can efficiently combust. 3. Don't just get the little rubber boot around the joint replaced. That is really just there to hold the grease in around the actual joint. If that is torn or missing and the lube has left it, then you are actively damaging the joint when you drive. Especially doing low speed extreme angle parking lot style maneuvers. You probably already need a whole new Half-Shaft (axle) on at least one side. So that's why he said to wait until it "gets louder." And statistically speaking it will "get louder" before it "fails spectacularly" however - why wait! CV axles are a wear item on this car that you trade for the benefits of FWD the 100-200K miles they last. Replace them as soon as you can afford to do so. If you don't like getting stranded and calling tow-trucks, should this not happen to be the case then just wait.
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Apr 1, 2009 23:39
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So a paint can fell out of a truck in front of me and now my Forester looks like it was painted by Jackson Pollock. I've pretty much gotten all of it off (it was pretty lovely indoor paint), but there are a bunch of little specs left. It's not like they're hard to get off (I can pick them off with my fingernail), but it's pretty drat time consuming. Is there a fast fix for cleaning this up, or should I get back to picking it off.
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Apr 1, 2009 23:41
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Yellowjacket posted:So a paint can fell out of a truck in front of me and now my Forester looks like it was painted by Jackson Pollock. I've pretty much gotten all of it off (it was pretty lovely indoor paint), but there are a bunch of little specs left. It's not like they're hard to get off (I can pick them off with my fingernail), but it's pretty drat time consuming. Is there a fast fix for cleaning this up, or should I get back to picking it off. Try picking up a claybar at an autoparts store and follow the instructions.
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Apr 2, 2009 00:44
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Dradien posted:Google couldn't provide me with a good answer, so here I am (again) If they do that and you let him drive the car and he wrecks it, you're boned.
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Apr 2, 2009 01:47
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DreamOn13 posted:Try picking up a claybar at an autoparts store and follow the instructions.
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Apr 2, 2009 01:56
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Shampoo posted:This was it's own thread because I missed the Stupid Question thread due to HAM overload: So, all those cars you see with black-and-yellows are (possibly) legal. Of course they do still have to pay the annual registration fees, and if they don't keep the stickers on the plate updated, I assume they can be pulled over. But in that case the worst they'll get is a fixit ticket, which will be dismissed when they show up at the courthouse with proof that the car's registration fee was paid. Edit: it is still possible to do this. See CA DMV "handbook of registration procedures", Ch. 14:, section 14.100. (This has a publication date of 2007, so I think it's up to date, but possibly not?) quote:14.100Year of Manufacture Model Year Date Plates (VC §5004.1) There are also rules for transfer of special plates from one vehicle to another, and for "Vehicles of Historic Value". Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 03:45
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The engine and transmission in my truck have gotten tired and old and I am at the point where I either rebuild or replace them, there are a lot of options I could take and I want to stay on the path of most bang for my buck and being a GM half ton there are a LOT of options. Currently it is a 1994 TBI 350/5.7l with a 4l60 (not 4l60e.) The two paths I am looking into are putting in a 400 small block rebuilt with vortec heads and rebuilding my current transmission or swapping a full slightly modified 6.0l vortec computer and all out of a newer 3/4 ton chassis. In the end I want over 300 horsepower and an even better tow vehicle than what I started with that I can still play with in the woods. I have done research into both but I want input from someone who has actually done a swap with a 6.0l so i know what I am up against before I pick a route.
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Apr 2, 2009 04:04
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giundy posted:My transmission has been acting weird lately. The car is an 05 Elantra with a 5 spd, 38k miles. When putting the car in reverse once and a while it will grind the gear with the clutch floored. The clutch doesn't slip, so its not worn. Also recently downshifting has become harder, it won't just slip into gear. No grinding here. My first thought was the syncros, but could my clutch cable just not be tight enough? After looking in the manual it looks like there is too much play in the system. You said 05, so I assume you mean 2005, not 1905. Don't listen to people telling you its a clutch cable. Nothing that new has one. You have a hydraulic clutch. You might have a bad clutch master or slave. Find the fluid reservoir and see if its full. Its probably not. Replacing the fluid might "fix" is, possibly with some bleeding as well. But if it's low, that stuff went somewhere, and you can bet its only going to get worse. It's not a terribly bad job to replace the clutch master/slave, so it shouldn't be all that expensive.
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Apr 2, 2009 14:49
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SpeedFreek posted:I have done research into both but I want input from someone who has actually done a swap with a 6.0l so i know what I am up against before I pick a route. It's a hell of a lot of work but hey, I'd do this  I did the LS1 instead of a 6.0, and mine went into an older truck, but the basics should be similar. The real worry I would have in your case would be the BCM on the truck, if it indeed has one, and if it needs to talk to the ECM at all. If not, then the swap should be very simple since you're essentially just putting the engine, transmission, and the computer to run them both in as a single stand-alone unit. The only electrics that need to go between the two are basic +12V lines to power it all, and the gauges themselves.b0nes posted:On Chevy's LS motors what does the number after the LS stand for? I was thinking liters displaced but I guess I am wrong. They're just RPO codes, and many of them are recycled. There's no real rhyme or reason to it, beyond the fact that I think pretty much every GM engine's RPO starts with a 'L'. In modern times, a few were specifically selected because they're codes associated with great engines from the past (LT1 was first used on a hot carbed 350 in the '60s before it became a hot fuel-injected 350 in the '90s, LS6 was originally the king-of-the-hill 454 big block in the '60s before it became the king-of-the-hill 346 in the early part of this decade). The rest are pretty much just assigned however it works out: LS1: 5.7L GenIII, 300-350hp depending on car, 1997-2004 LS2: 6.0L GenIV, 390-400hp depending on car, 2005-2008? LS3: 6.2L GenIV, 436hp? 2009-present LS4: 5.3L GenIII transverse-mount for W-bodies LS6: 5.7L GenIII, high-output version of the LS1 LS7: 7.0L GenIV, 505hp, dry-sump, sleeveless, C6 Z06 only LS9: 6.2L GenIV, supercharged, C6 ZR1 only LSA: 6.2L GenIV, supercharged, lower boost, currently second-gen CTS-V only There's also the "LSX", a GM Performance Parts cast-iron shortblock that will accept parts meant for any of the above engines, but is meant to be used to build crazy 7.0L+ forced-induction engines. On top of that you have a large number of related engines going into more 'standard' vehicles that have RPO codes that don't start with LS - LQ4, LQ9, L99, etc.
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Apr 2, 2009 18:23
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Korwen posted:Congratulations! You have a T-45 5-Speed transmission! I've owned multiple mustangs which have used this transmission, and they've all had the 1-2 synchro on the way out. Get it replaced under warranty, and try to be gentle. On my 98, if I shifted rather slowly, or double-clutched, it would not grind, but the t-45 is a weak part of that drivetrain - a lot of people try to replace it with the older, but sturdier, t-5 Back from March 13th... I brought my car in this week and it was, in fact, the synchros. It's currently being replaced and would have cost me over $2000 after the rental car I'm driving, all of which is covered under my extended warranty  I've never bought an extended warranty on anything before this car, and have only bought it on this car, but in this instance, it paid itself off. I had a check engine light in the past, and after Ford's charge to check that and replace the stupid thermostat, plus now replacing the synchros and a rental car, it has paid itself off with 5+ months left.
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Apr 2, 2009 21:47
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I was driving too fast in my '96 Impreza wagon on a wet road, spun out and hit a tree with the front right corner of the car. Pics: http://horizon.ath.cx/w09/ Basically I'm very short on money and am trying to decide whether I should try to fix this or start saving for a replacement. From what I can see both fenders, the front bumper, the hood, one wheel, and assorted other parts need replacing, but if I can bang anything into shape and wait to change it later I'll do that. The radiator may or may not need replacing. Most importantly I'm not sure what shape the frame is in and whether it can be bent back into shape or needs a replacement welded on. There are cars around town (Atlanta) available for parting out. I really want to try to figure out what it would take to do this myself since going to the body shop will obviously be very expensive (compared to blue book value = $2800). I don't have a garage but I do have yard space. And I really like this car and have spent the past week cursing myself for doing something this stupid to it, so yeah, I'm being a bit sentimental about it. So... is it worth it? What tools would I need? How hard is it to replace those fenders, or bend the frame back? Is there some damage I'm not seeing that makes this totally worthless?
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Apr 3, 2009 02:51
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azazello posted:I was driving too fast in my '96 Impreza wagon on a wet road, spun out and hit a tree with the front right corner of the car. Pics: Sorry, but I believe your car is a total loss.
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Apr 3, 2009 03:02
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daslog posted:Sorry, but I believe your car is a total loss. Agreed. The fact that the whole side of the car he didn't even hit is that deformed means your frame and suspension would need way more work than what that car is worth. I could even swear the entire front of the car is pointing 10 degrees to the left, but it's hard to tell with how it looks.
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Apr 3, 2009 03:24
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It seems like a bad investment to spend much more than a couple hundred $ on it. Spend the lowest amount possible so that it drives and save for a new car. Edit: because I am a grumpy old man, I feel obligated to tell you that awd =/= magical ability to navigate wet or icy turns. johnny sack fucked around with this message at 03:28 on Apr 3, 2009 |
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Apr 3, 2009 03:25
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johnny sack posted:It seems like a bad investment to spend much more than a couple hundred $ on it. Spend the lowest amount possible so that it drives and save for a new car. I wouldn't drive it. Once you bend a unibody like that, who knows what's going to fall off.
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Apr 3, 2009 03:27
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daslog posted:I wouldn't drive it. Once you bend a unibody like that, who knows what's going to fall off. the guy is short on cash and buying another car outright seemed like it wasn't possible. I drove around an eclipse that I put in a ditch with similar body damage. Nothing 'fell off', but I did burn through a couple cv joints and my tires were perpetually unaligned. Not everyone can just stop driving a car if it still drives.
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Apr 3, 2009 03:32
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's a hell of a lot of work but hey, I'd do this I was thinking about it and having a close relative to a corvette motor would be awesome by itself. There is a smart parts yard I could get something from nearby and they give you almost the whole thing, wiring harness, computer, entire engine assembly. Would it be a worthy project? I might be picking up a 400 block this weekend and can get parts for it cheap but putting a nice 6.0l I could get the engine with the cylinder deactivation and probably really up my mileage. What year did engines start coming like that from chevy?
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Apr 3, 2009 15:34
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After seeing some 'satin black' paint jobs on cars, I am very intrigued as I think that color looks sharp as hell. If anyone could tell me a good place to get this done in the Twin Cities area, I'd appreciate it. I've been reading on some forums and it looks like a lot of people do it themselves, but I would rather pay someone to have it done professionally as I've never painted anything.
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Apr 3, 2009 15:39
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johnny sack posted:After seeing some 'satin black' paint jobs on cars, I am very intrigued as I think that color looks sharp as hell. I believe most of the satin and matte black supercars you see are actually vinyl jobs, which I guess makes it a lot easier to get that perfect finish, so perhaps that's something to research as well. It also preserves and protects the original paint in good condition, should you ever change your mind
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Apr 3, 2009 18:00
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I have a 1998 Dodge Avenger 5-speed 2.0L (420a Eclipse & Talon engine) with 120,000 miles. I keep up to date on my oil and oil filter changes every 3,000 miles. My air filter, spark plugs and spark plug wires are only about 15,000 miles old. I want to give my car a little tune-up now that its warmer. Besides radiator fluid, brake fluid and power steering fluid, what else should I consider getting? I dunno much about cars, but I think I read that since my car is a stick, it does not require tranny fluid. Does it need something like gear lube/oil? Any particular brands you guys recommend or avoid?
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Apr 3, 2009 18:51
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azazello posted:I was driving too fast in my '96 Impreza wagon on a wet road, spun out and hit a tree with the front right corner of the car. Pics: There's damage to the frame. The frame buckled while it was absorbing energy from the impact. Even if you banged it back out, the integrity of the frame is compromised. That means the car isn't as safe to drive; in another impact, the frame would not absorb as much energy as it collapsed, meaning more of the impact energy will be transferred to the passengers. Depending on where you live, the car might not even be legal to drive (e.g., it wouldn't pass an inspection/certification process). Getting the frame fixed, combined with the costs of the other parts you need to replace, will cost more than the car is worth, even if you do it yourself. It sucks, but, I suggest selling the car as a non-operable parts car, and then saving for something you can drive safely. If you have to, buy a $500 beater or something. And, not that you want to hear it, but I personally feel anyone who is driving a car they cannot afford to replace in the event of a total loss, needs to have insurance that covers collision/loss. Some folks will argue the car was not worth enough to bother with paying for that insurance, but on cars with very low value, the additional cost of a comprehensive policy ought to be proportionally low as well. For example on my POS old 92 Chevy S-10, with two insured drivers, the additional coverage costs less than $300/year (through Amicia)... and I live in a high-cost ZIP code in California. Anyway, sorry about your accident man, and if you're feeling down, just remember you walked away unscathed from a substantial collision, and that's something to be happy about.
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Apr 3, 2009 20:41
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^^^^^ Full coverage on my 1992 camry when 18 was comically low compared to simply liability+massive medical coverage. It would be insane not to have it. johnny sack posted:After seeing some 'satin black' paint jobs on cars, I am very intrigued as I think that color looks sharp as hell. But theeh best paint work in the twin cities is done by Autoworks out in Rockford. 7780 State Highway 55 Rockford, MN 55373 (763) 477-6653 nm fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Apr 3, 2009 |
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Apr 3, 2009 20:48
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I have a '94 Pathfinder 4WD. It needs the CV axles replaced. I got an estimate today and if I have it done professionally it will run me just under $500. I'm wondering if this is something I can easily do myself. I know very little about cars, but am always up for a new diy project (especially when it saves me that much money). Is this doable, or will I fail miserably without any experience working on cars?
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Apr 3, 2009 22:17
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Does burning Dexcool smell similar to burning oil? When I'm sitting in traffic and my engine gets warmer, I get a brief whiff of that smell.
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Apr 3, 2009 22:55
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Philipp Melanchthon posted:I have a '94 Pathfinder 4WD. It needs the CV axles replaced. I got an estimate today and if I have it done professionally it will run me just under $500. I'm wondering if this is something I can easily do myself. I know very little about cars, but am always up for a new diy project (especially when it saves me that much money). CV joints and their axles are pretty easy to do. Just kind of messy. what part of the $500 is actual parts, and what is labour? Do the axles need replacing, or just the CV joints. Usually all thats really needed, depending on the method of assembly is an allen key and a split ring (is that what it's called?) spreader. Good idea to keep a few things like a hand sledge, pliers etc. nearby too. You know how things can be when it comes to actually doing something. If you keep the axles all you really need are the new CV joints, CV boot kits (usually include grease, boot, and the metal strap things that clamp the boot to the axle), and preferably new split rings. I don't know if they come with the CV or not. I've never actually bought one, but I have pulled them apart to clean, regrease and replace boots.
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Apr 3, 2009 23:56
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General_Failure posted:CV joints and their axles are pretty easy to do. Just kind of messy. what part of the $500 is actual parts, and what is labour? My estimate says "Constant Velocity Axle Shaft", 2 of them at $115 each, though I'm sure they would be cheaper to buy myself. Its the $250 they want for labor that seems ridiculous. What exactly do I need for parts? If I buy a new on will it come with the boot or do I buy that separately? More info: the boot is completely torn through and when I stuck my finger inside it came out covered in grease that had a lot of sand and dirt in it. My car does the clicking thing while turning, and can't go over 50mph without shaking.
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Apr 4, 2009 00:04
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FogHelmut posted:Does burning Dexcool smell similar to burning oil?
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Apr 4, 2009 00:12
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Does anyone know of a good resource for weird military vehicles? I'm trying to remember the name of a French Military Minibus-on-steroids, but everything I google results in either nothing or AUTOTRADER MILITARY CAR TRUCK VEHICLE VAN CAR FOR SALE.
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Apr 4, 2009 08:00
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Leperflesh posted:There's damage to the frame. The frame buckled while it was absorbing energy from the impact. Even if you banged it back out, the integrity of the frame is compromised. That means the car isn't as safe to drive; in another impact, the frame would not absorb as much energy as it collapsed, meaning more of the impact energy will be transferred to the passengers. OK thanks for your replies guys, guess I'll have to just chalk it up as a loss and start saving. And yes, I was stupid in several ways, I'll make sure to insure it better next time. 
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Apr 4, 2009 15:43
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Philipp Melanchthon posted:My estimate says "Constant Velocity Axle Shaft", 2 of them at $115 each, though I'm sure they would be cheaper to buy myself. Its the $250 they want for labor that seems ridiculous. What exactly do I need for parts? If I buy a new on will it come with the boot or do I buy that separately? If you buy a new axle it will come with the boot. Autozone will rent you the special tools needed to do the job, if you choose to go that route. At 2 hours/side, that labor price isn't too outrageous.
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Apr 4, 2009 17:04
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OH GOD I AM SUCH AN IDIOT i just installed 3 out of 4 brake caliper bleeders but the first one I put on I tightened it too much and it broke off and now the end is stuck in the caliper! Is there any way I can get this out so I don't have to buy a new caliper? I tried using a vice grip but there wasn't enough of the bleeder sticking out for it to get a good grip.
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Apr 6, 2009 02:12
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