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I thought they stopped using the aluminum hoods after a few years because of the cost of material. They may have brought it back, I dunno.
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Apr 2, 2009 15:40
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One of my Forza buddies is pushing me into a Whiteline suspension kit. What's the word on these guys?
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Apr 2, 2009 16:20
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RealKyleH posted:My car/shifter/clutch always shudders into first gear. Its not supposed to? Does anyone know anything about this? My 2.5RS does this as well on occasion and I always wondered if it should be a concern.
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Apr 2, 2009 16:28
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Lando posted:They also do a 'you cant destroy it' video that is on their ad. They put some kind of flammable fluid on it, then set it on fire. Smack it with a hammer numerous times, jump up and down on it, and a few other harsh things. Not even a scratch. FWIW when I was working on my rally car (not a Subie) in the parking lot, I set the CF hood down on the ground for a second and had someone drive their Accord over it when they weren't paying attention. Apart from some scratches and a bit of glued backing coming undone, it was fine. But all in all, a CF hood isn't worth it. Far cheaper to find a stock hood already painted in the same stock color.
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Apr 2, 2009 17:30
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burtonos posted:One of my Forza buddies is pushing me into a Whiteline suspension kit. What's the word on these guys? Whiteline makes good stuff generally. RealKyleH posted:My car/shifter/clutch always shudders into first gear. Its not supposed to? lol What do you mean, does it shudder when you're starting from a stop and are letting out the clutch?
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Apr 2, 2009 18:53
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TurboLuvah posted:Whiteline makes good stuff generally. Yes.
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Apr 2, 2009 18:55
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Well, on my clutch note, it seems to be back to it's "old self" now. That being said, I think I'll mention it to the dealer when I go in for my next service - a few people on LegacyGT.org mentioned problems with throwout bearings or pressure plates.
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Apr 2, 2009 19:20
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RealKyleH posted:Yes. It might take some time getting used to. I did that when I first started driving Subarus, it's like a shudder at the point when you let the clutch out. It just requires some finessing with the clutch and the friction point, and it's something you"ll get used to. Or, something is wrong with your clutch, its hard to really tell through a message board really.
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Apr 2, 2009 19:42
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Lando posted:Check ebay. Theres one specific company that is making CF hoods <ugh so tacky> for a pretty good price. They also do a 'you cant destroy it' video that is on their ad. They put some kind of flammable fluid on it, then set it on fire. Smack it with a hammer numerous times, jump up and down on it, and a few other harsh things. Not even a scratch. Most carbon fibre bonnets aren't actually full carbon fibre - the real deal is much more expensive than a standard bonnet for one and two, the EBay ones are in fact a layer of CF over fibreglass, which is why they weigh more than standard. And why they are cheap.
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Apr 2, 2009 22:49
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Cat Terrist posted:Most carbon fibre bonnets aren't actually full carbon fibre - the real deal is much more expensive than a standard bonnet for one and two, the EBay ones are in fact a layer of CF over fibreglass, which is why they weigh more than standard. And why they are cheap.
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Apr 2, 2009 22:52
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nm posted:Yes, but they get me loads of fat asian chicks at the street races. This. Seriously though, no one buys CF hoods for performance. If you like the CF look, go for it. Just be prepared. In less than 2 years, it's gonna be a yellow, splintering eye sore.
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Apr 2, 2009 23:02
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Got my car back from the body shop, the reason it overheated? They forgot to re-install the over flow tank  Seriously? They also fixed the panel gaps I was pissed about before as well, and the headlight flashing fast turned out to be a bad flasher unit. Sold my stock seats and also put the new black rear seats in as well, little dust on them from being in storage but I'll vacuum and wash them later.  Also, got a pic of my Omori boost gauge mounted in a stock pod. The fit is tight but you can finesse it in there, works awesome and matches the factory green/yellow lighting.  And I installed a 6 disc changer out of an 06 STi I got fort $50, it really cleans up the center console and makes it look much better. Now I have to pull the Jazzy mod from the old HU so I can use my iPod. 
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Apr 2, 2009 23:13
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dayman posted:This. Put a sticker over the standard item, no one will know the difference
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Apr 2, 2009 23:33
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Cat Terrist posted:Put a sticker over the standard item, no one will know the difference That's essentially what they are anyway, like you mentioned in your post. So, with the travesty that is the new legacy, how long do you think it will be until subaru pulls a Ford/GM and starts plagiarizing their past with a GC retro inspired impreza?
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Apr 2, 2009 23:49
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dayman posted:That's essentially what they are anyway, like you mentioned in your post. Oh yes please!
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Apr 3, 2009 00:37
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Cat Terrist posted:Oh yes please! On the one hand, I'm of the somewhat biased opinion that the GC body style was the most unique and attractive designs Subaru ever produced and anything designed from it is going to be equally awesome and unique. I'd be all for it. On the other hand, in a lot of ways it would seem kinda lazy. Especially since it has only been 10 years since the GC has been discontinued. Part of me would love to see Subaru inspired by rally again, but in such a way that they create something that sparks the same draw as the first generation chassis, but in a completely different way. I guess with Subaru out of rally for the time being, that's a lot to hope for.
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Apr 3, 2009 00:48
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Keep in mind with all this body style talk is a lot of what we used to see can never come again due to things like side impact crash test results and pedestrian safety standards. High beltlines and bulbous front ends are here to stay. So, I changed my oil tonight. For the first time in 90k miles, I decided to ditch the Mobil 1 10w30 that I've been feeding it for the past 7 years for Rotella-T 5w40 synthetic. Holy poo poo, my engine sounds completely different. The sound is much more subdue with almost no 'tat-tat-tat' that's characteristic of boxer engines.
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Apr 3, 2009 05:11
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Seems weird that it would affect the sound of the engine unless you had a sticky valve. Most of the clicks you hear are the fuel injectors which for some reason are really noisy on subarus. Are you running forged pistons? If not, i don't think there's a reason to run 40 weight unless you live in like arizona...even then. I know people say that it's safer, but I don't really buy it. The most important thing is to check your oil often. Subarus are very sensitive to low oil levels. As far as styling, high beltlines aren't bad at all. They actually contribute to an aggressive look when used correctly. A good example is the 350Z or Audi TT. Excellent, unique, aggressive looking cars. Incidentally, both are coupes. Is that a big enough hint for you subaru? dayman fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Apr 3, 2009 |
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Apr 3, 2009 06:40
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Can anyone recomend tires for an '08 Legacy gt? I hit a pothole today and my back right tire either blew out or popped. I've got 25K miles on the car, so getting one new tire isn't going to work. Assuming I'm going to need a new tire (and hopefully not a new rim) I figured I'd upgrade from the factory to something better. I've looked back a few pages and didn't see anything. Right now I've got the Bridgestone Potenza RE92's.
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Apr 3, 2009 17:00
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dayman posted:Seems weird that it would affect the sound of the engine unless you had a sticky valve. Most of the clicks you hear are the fuel injectors which for some reason are really noisy on subarus. My car is bone stock and has been for the my entire 7 1/2 years of ownership. Piston slap while the car is warming up and some valve lash noise are also very common and can quiet down with heavier oil. Given my car has 90k miles on it, I don't think it's outside of the realm of possibility that I could have a bit of piston slap at this point when the engine is cold. Rotella-T 5w40 is a very very common oil for turbo Subies to run. I've been seeing more and more things that have made me leery of Mobil 1 recently (from oil analysis that people have posted to just anecdotal stories) and since it's not an especially cheap oil either, I have no problems parting with it. General consensus for the truboed boxers seems to be either German Castrol 0w30 or Rotella-T 5w40. Since my engine has 90k miles on it and the weather is starting to warm up, the Rotella should be just fine. Bonus is that you can get it anywhere and it's not too expensive. I just wasn't expecting to experience any actual changes to my driving experience after the switching the oil but my car sure as hell seems to be liking the Rotella-T 5w40 much better than the Mobil 1 10w30. AFewBricksShy posted:Can anyone recomend tires for an '08 Legacy gt? I hit a pothole today and my back right tire either blew out or popped. I've got 25K miles on the car, so getting one new tire isn't going to work. Assuming I'm going to need a new tire (and hopefully not a new rim) I figured I'd upgrade from the factory to something better. I've looked back a few pages and didn't see anything. Bridgestone Potenza RE960as. Bar none, these are the best all-season tires on the market. I bought a set in November of 2006 and I'm still rocking them (though, the torrential downpours this morning reminded me that running tires on their wear bars can be dicey in pooled water). I thought I was going to have to replace them before the winter, but even in their worn state they were still very stable in the snow and ice. With more tread depth, they slice though standing water like it's not there. If you look at test results, you can see that wetness barely affects their performance at all. They are drat good in the dry too. I have a second set of wheels for autocross with 225/50/16 Hankook R-S2 so I know what it's like to drive my car with performance rubber on it and I can say that I really don't find it lacking daily driving on 205/55/16 versions of RE960as. They are truly a swiss army tire and I'm going to be buying another set this summer without hesitation for my car. It's a bit telling that 3 years after they came out, that no one has been able to produce a tire yet to top them. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 18:02 on Apr 3, 2009 |
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Apr 3, 2009 17:55
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http://www.autoblog.com/2009/04/03/video-ken-blocks-newest-creation-leaks-out/ That. Is. AI.
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Apr 3, 2009 18:16
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AFewBricksShy posted:Can anyone recomend tires for an '08 Legacy gt? I hit a pothole today and my back right tire either blew out or popped. I've got 25K miles on the car, so getting one new tire isn't going to work. Assuming I'm going to need a new tire (and hopefully not a new rim) I figured I'd upgrade from the factory to something better. I've looked back a few pages and didn't see anything.
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Apr 3, 2009 20:41
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nm posted:Where do you live and what do you want from a tire? Philly, and an all around good all season tire. I'm not racing or anything like that, just a daily driver. The Potenza RE960A's are actually cheaper than the factory tires, so I'm liking that a lot. The cost, plus Bull3964's recommendation, quite a few commments on the LegacyGT forums, as well as the guy at the Firestone place make it very likely I'm going with those, unless I hear some drastically different advice.
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Apr 3, 2009 21:46
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AFewBricksShy posted:Philly, and an all around good all season tire. I'm not racing or anything like that, just a daily driver. I've been running RE960s on the 9-2x for about 18 months now and everything Bull3964 says is right, they're loving amazing.
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Apr 4, 2009 02:54
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Dr JonboyG posted:I've been running RE960s on the 9-2x for about 18 months now and everything Bull3964 says is right, they're loving amazing. I just got a set right before the end of winter here (Indiana) and I LOVE these things. They made my '04 NA wagon drive 100 times better then the stock tires I had.
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Apr 4, 2009 04:37
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Backno posted:I just got a set right before the end of winter here (Indiana) and I LOVE these things. They made my '04 NA wagon drive 100 times better then the stock tires I had. I replaced my RE92s with a set of RE960ASes last year, and they're amazing. Completely worth it. The only thing to take notice of is that they don't have a little lip like the stock RE92s, so there's a little more chance of damage if you brush a curb at low speeds. Doesn't really matter, though.
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Apr 4, 2009 06:14
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AFewBricksShy posted:Philly, and an all around good all season tire. I'm not racing or anything like that, just a daily driver.
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Apr 4, 2009 06:53
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nm posted:I'm a broken record, but seriously, consider a dedicated snow/summer combination. The overall extra cost is fairly minimal (basically, the cost of some cheap wheels for winter). The extra performance (and that doesn't mean caving corners, that means not understeering into a ditch like the 9-2x a few pages back) is worth it. He lives in philly. He's actually going to have more time where an all-season will give better performance than either a dedicated summer or winter tire. In fact, the best tire combination in this climate would probably be all-season and winter (and the times the winters would be used could probably counted on one hand.) Dedicated seasonal tires are great if you actually have distinct seasons, PA doesn't. We have about a month and a half of actual winter, 3.5 months of summer temps, the rest is a tossup as to whether it's going to be anywhere in the range of 90 to 20 (and probably wet). Unless you want to change tires on a daily basis and go mad trying to decide what set to run when it's 43 and pouring rain outside (neither are appropriate), all-seasons really are the best choice for this climate. Especially a wet weather all-season like the RE960as. Seriously, it was 70 degrees and sunny a day ago, it was torrential downpours and 45 today, and we may have flurries or snow showers on Monday (but be back in the 60s a day later). This bipolar weather lasts for months on end. Besides, the RE960as perform nearly as good as the Blizzak LM25s on ice in tests and something like the WS50 or Revo1 are about as overkill as using a 10lb sledge on a gnat unless you live in central PA. Also, they will actually be more dangerous than the all seasons for most of the winter driving conditions. People tend to forget the endless 15-30 degree days where the roads are all wet with salt (or just plain dry). If I have to make an emergency stop or swerve on the highway during my morning commute, I would much prefer to be on the all seasons than winters for all but 1% of morning drives during the winter. Modern UHP all-seasons are incredible. I've cruised at 80mph on the highway in torrential rain in temps ranging from 25 to 95 without even a hint of hydroplaning. I've driven though snow deep enough to plow with the front end without a trace of drama. I've driven up a steep ice bank where people have had to ditch their cars on the side of the road. I've had quite a few morning drives to work at 5 degrees during the winter and I never felt the need to back off due traction loss from rubber hardening. I don't want to seem like I'm jumping on you, I just wanted to point out that the best choice sometimes is the compromise and that a good all-season really are that good now. If I had a dedicated winter car that I would only drive on the bad days and park normally, I would put winter tires on it. My DD would still have all-seasons on it though. The only use I have for summer tires is competition. Dry, the car never gets pushed hard enough on the street for the traction to be necessary and I would stack the RE960as against the best wet weather summer tires on the market like the Eagle F1 for rain driving. They are seriously that good in the wet. bull3964 fucked around with this message at 08:46 on Apr 4, 2009 |
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Apr 4, 2009 08:37
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I got the 960's. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate it. Firestone is offering a $75 rebate too, so although my wallet wasn't expecting this hit, at least it's better than it could have been.
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Apr 5, 2009 14:34
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I need new tires, too. The RE960AS might fit my needs, but my car never sees winter or temps below 40. It does see a poo poo-ton of rain.. I drive aggressively when I can. I'd like to get 20 to 25k miles out of the tires.
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Apr 5, 2009 19:10
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Wrar posted:I need new tires, too. The RE960AS might fit my needs, but my car never sees winter or temps below 40. It does see a poo poo-ton of rain.. I drive aggressively when I can. I'd like to get 20 to 25k miles out of the tires. I'm in the same climate, and I chose the RE960AS over a summer for the tread life.
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Apr 6, 2009 01:57
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Here are some fun things I've been doing lately: Cosworth 2.2 stroker kit that will be going into a ver 7 EJ207:  A full-race twinscroll exhaust manifold feeding a GTK-650:  Wiring an Aquamist HFS-5:  Taking apart some fuel rails:  Hey so this might have something to do with the car running on only two cylinders:  Forged pistons and arp studs for robi's 08 sti: 
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Apr 6, 2009 08:07
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I parked my car on my driveway which has a slight incline today. I put it in a gear (5th this time) and got out like I normally do. About 2 hours later my car alarm goes off. Thinking someone is stealing my new baby I grab my 12 gauge and head out the door (yea I know this is not proper procedure) to watch the tail end of my car scrape against (thankfully not full on hitting) the back of the 2008 VW Beetle that my mom paid off LAST WEEK. AKA My mom's new baby. Luckily her paint is harder than my bumper and although there was lots of paint transfer and nearly a 1 square foot contact patch, with some rigorous clay bar action, some poor boys SSR2.5 and SSR1 (which didn't get the scratches out but made them almost invisible from 4-5 feet) and some tech wax her car escaped with some now transparent scratches and a very small dent. My new baby did not. It now has paint missing and of course lots of scuffs and paint transfer as well. What happened? Shouldn't putting it in 5th gear on a slight incline stop it from rolling backward? My e-brake doesn't seem to be very strong so I haven't bothered to use it. Is that normal? AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 08:17 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 08:15
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5th has the greatest mechanical advantage over the engine's compression. Enough to turn it and move the car in your case. Put it in 1st, and set the parking brake. The parking brake shoes are adjustable through holes in the backing plates, and the cable is adjustable in the center console.
jamal fucked around with this message at 08:45 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 08:43
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jamal posted:5th has a lot of mechanical advantage over the engine's compression. Put it in 1st. I thought it would work the opposite way. 
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Apr 6, 2009 08:44
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seriously, tighten your e-brake. You'd be surprised how easily cars can slip out of gear. It's just common sense. Jamal: That build looks awesome. I got the version 7, someday it'll get some goodies like that.
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Apr 6, 2009 19:01
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Lando posted:Check ebay. Theres one specific company that is making CF hoods <ugh so tacky> for a pretty good price. They also do a 'you cant destroy it' video that is on their ad. They put some kind of flammable fluid on it, then set it on fire. Smack it with a hammer numerous times, jump up and down on it, and a few other harsh things. Not even a scratch. Thats probably not real carbon fiber and just black fiberglass. Most of the "Carbon fiber" you see in the bling catagory is just black fiberglass - since it's not structural no one really gives a poo poo as long as it looks real enough. I haven't been in this thread for a long time so i'll summarize: Yes to RE960's I have them and I love them. No to carbon fiber hoods, cheap ones are heavier than the aluminum it replaces and if you use hood dampers or hood struts or whatever they're called you may crack them. Yes they will yellow over time because the resin reacts with the UV light in sunlight. Nice build pictures Park it either in reverse or first, but personally I park it in neutral and pull the parking brake. It's called the parking brake for a reason, if you pull it all the way and your car still moves get the cable tightened (the right way). atomicfire fucked around with this message at 19:46 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 19:38
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Nice Cosworth parts. Those conrods seem really thick compared to the ones in the cutaway boxer I played with at the auto show.atomicfire posted:Park it either in reverse or first, but personally I park it in neutral and pull the parking brake. It's called the parking brake for a reason, if you pull it all the way and your car still moves get the cable tightened (the right way). My thinking is, if the e-brake fails while it's parked, at least the transmission will catch some of the load. I use the parking brake with automatics in park as well, because I don't trust the parking pawl. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 21:09
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Nice Cosworth parts. Those conrods seem really thick compared to the ones in the cutaway boxer I played with at the auto show. The parking brake has never failed me, and my logic goes if I'm parked in a busy street and someone decides to skullfuck ram my car, the shock load isn't going to be transferred to the engine\transmission.
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Apr 6, 2009 21:56
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I did have a parking brake cable snap on me on my old Camry, but it was while I was pulling the lever up. I don't know how likely it would be to spontaneously snap while parked.
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Apr 6, 2009 22:05
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