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mcrandello posted:Also anyone? I'm mainly concerned that all those through tenons might weaken the structure a bit. I agree with morris about the muntins lining up, they should be about 2/3rds the way down the front panels. Personally I would stick with standard mortise and tenons as I'm not sure about half lapping panels. All the problems with the through tenons can be solved by building standalone panels for each end, otherwise you'll need to beef up your corner stiles to 3x3 at least. Also, I would eliminate the through tenons on the backside as you'll want to maximize strength and it won't be seen. If you do put them through I would consider pegging them but I would probably do that part completely different anyway. It might be fine, I'd have to think about it some more though. You might want to review the book I recommended earlier, Illustrated Cabinetmaking (or something similar). GEMorris posted:...try some half-lap joints there rather than M&Ting everything. I'm having a hard time picturing this... half lap muntins on panels? Or do you mean rabbeting the back of the frame for the panel? And what the gently caress, do woodworkers have no life? It's Saturday night for gods sakes.
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Mar 29, 2009 03:35
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Do you mean the front-back rails, the side to side rails or both? I assume you mean these bastards: (Clicky)I could cut the tenons in half on the backside and just leave out the side to side pieces altogether and glue another 3/4 piece to the outside rail for a shelf support. Might make getting that top panel in tricky but as long as it goes in before the table it should work I think. The munions were meant to be sort of a cloud lift thing. I guess that doesn't work so well though? I just might go half lap on those though since I'll be doing most of the mortising with a drill press and chisels anyway and it was already getting ridiculous halfway through making the sketchup, it should turn out looking the same from the front, especially once the joints are all glued and pinned. also 3 less pieces to have to puzzle together come glue up time. Thanks for the suggestion. Edit- I work saturdays  at least it's a fairly quiet job with a little free time.mcrandello fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 03:45
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wormil posted:And what the gently caress, do woodworkers have no life? It's Saturday night for gods sakes. Fo Real, I'm babysitting the laser engraver and not much else. wormil posted:I'm having a hard time picturing this... half lap muntins on panels? Or do you mean rabbeting the back of the frame for the panel? I'm considering the front to be one mcrandello posted:I assume you mean these bastards Yeah man, after you make that mortise, there isn't much left, haunch those suckers, or make them half laps to save time. Edit: For clarity GEMorris fucked around with this message at 16:40 on Mar 29, 2009 |
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Mar 29, 2009 04:45
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For that matter, if the panels are sheet stock you could just glue false muntins on the front and it wouldn't matter. You could even do false through tenons. It depends on how much of a project you really want this to be. And wow, if you're cutting all those through mortises by hand you'll really hate mortise and tenon joinery by the time you're done. How are you cutting the tenons?
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Mar 29, 2009 08:48
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So has anyone been making anything at all? I haven't been able to do anything much due to moving to another state and setting up the new house and shop. Still don't have my dust collection set up. Only thing I've made since Christmas is this box I started keeping seeds in. Meh.
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Mar 31, 2009 03:20
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Havent built anything, but I am making a list of tools I need to buy... That box is beautiful - Dovetails still amaze me...
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Mar 31, 2009 04:09
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Well, i've been building some instruments (currently got 1 bass and 2 guitar builds going, and 1 bass restoration), but i've ground to a bit of a halt. My bandsaw has given up the ghost (wasn't great to begin with anyway), my belt/disc sander has just burnt out it's motor, and my friend wants his pillar drill back, so i've not got much power tool equipment left! If I can restore and sell the bass, then I should be able to purchase a new sander. Currently planning table-mounting my router too, as it's so much easier to work with templates on a flat table.
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Mar 31, 2009 14:36
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I'm in the middle of a guitar build too. I posted some pics in the post your projects thread. I carved the neck over the weekend, I am about to come to a stopping point for a bit while I order hardware and such.
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Apr 1, 2009 01:46
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valve posted:left! If I can restore and sell the bass, then I should be able to purchase a new sander. A friend of mine makes guitars and swears by the Ridgid Oscillating Spindle Sander / Edge sander that they sell for $200. Plus it has the lifetime warranty.
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Apr 1, 2009 17:58
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GEMorris posted:Awesome ottoman and rocking chair I brought this up earlier but I suspect it was lost in the ensuing argument. How are you shaping these pieces? The ottoman looks to me like laminate and vacuum clamping. That's just a wild guess, though. Mind giving a capsule overview?
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Apr 1, 2009 19:38
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    Simple profile molds cut out of 3/4" MDF on a CNC router and stacked. The seat mold uses hose clamps for part of the clamping force (It seems like there are far too few of those in that picture, I remember using far more, but it was like 4 years ago). I don't really have a walk-through, but it is pretty simple. As for the rocking chair, I will try to dig up some of the pics for that project, they are eluding me right now.
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Apr 2, 2009 03:26
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Alright, I incorporated some of the suggestions and think it's a bit improved: CLICKY CLICKYthe skp is available here for the next week if anyone is morbidly curious. I haven't put in any of the measurements yet, I'm going to go see if there's a script that will help me separate all the groups and lay them out to determine board feet or if I'm going to have to do it all manually. Fun times ahead.
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Apr 2, 2009 03:35
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GEMorris posted:Simple profile molds cut out of 3/4" MDF on a CNC router and stacked. The seat mold uses hose clamps for part of the clamping force (It seems like there are far too few of those in that picture, I remember using far more, but it was like 4 years ago). Wow! I didn't expect mechanical clamping. Hopefully you made a few of these after all of that effort. What sort of materials (glue/epoxy and laminates) are you using? I'm guessing some kind of glue and maybe birch veneer? Also, what's the tightest bend you can realistically achieve? That front edge looks like it's got to be getting close. Ever since the first time I saw the Eames lounge I've been fascinated by bent plywood. For whatever reason I'd always thought it to be out of reach without very specialized equipment (not that cnc routers aren't specialized, but I think I could duplicate that mold by hand with some printed patterns and a lot of patience and sanding). It's only lately that I'd begin to suspect that it might be more doable than I thought. It's nice to see it in practice. Thanks! mcrandello posted:formidable looking revised bar plan I don't envy you cutting all of those mortises but it looks like it will be worth it. Just out of curiosity what are you planning to use for the top? laod fucked around with this message at 05:55 on Apr 2, 2009 |
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Apr 2, 2009 05:41
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laod posted:Wow! I didn't expect mechanical clamping. Hopefully you made a few of these after all of that effort. I made four, I still have two. The most challenging part of the whole project was getting the loops to meet up at precisely the right point due to moisture content, an 8' strip can vary up to 1/2" in length with extreme humidity changes. Open ended bends are so much easier. laod posted:What sort of materials (glue/epoxy and laminates) are you using? I'm guessing some kind of glue and maybe birch veneer? This was made with a commercially available 2-ply sheet. It has a relatively thin longitudinal layer, and a thicker crossband layer. It is pretty meh in overall performance, but allows beginners to get their feet wet without dealing with the brittleness of single-ply veneers. I do believe the longitudinal veneer layer was birch at least. I think I used regular titebond for this one. Polyurethane glue is messy, and Titebond 3 will creep like a mofo. laod posted:Also, what's the tightest bend you can realistically achieve? That front edge looks like it's got to be getting close. It's a tradeoff. Want a really tight bend? Use thin veneer, but then your part will be weaker, and will be more subject to glue creep than if you used a thick veneer. For the material I was using, the leading corner there was pushing the limit. A lot of failures also happen due to uneven bending forces. Tight bends should be supported from the outside with a piece of blue foam, so the force is more evenly distributed and doesn't get completely focused on the apex of the bend. For extremely tight bends I recommend using ratcheting straps outside of the blue foam and ratcheting the bend around. laod posted:Ever since the first time I saw the Eames lounge I've been fascinated by bent plywood. For whatever reason I'd always thought it to be out of reach without very specialized equipment (not that cnc routers aren't specialized, but I think I could duplicate that mold by hand with some printed patterns and a lot of patience and sanding). It's only lately that I'd begin to suspect that it might be more doable than I thought. It's nice to see it in practice. Thanks! I used CNC because it was there and didn't cost me anything. Simple profile extrusion type shapes can easily be done by manual skills. Some 3d forming can be done without cnc pretty easily as well. I need to take some pictures tomorrow when I go in to teach, I still have a mold and resulting part from the mold that I made awhile back, it is definitely a complex 3d surface, rather than a simple extruded surface. Another thing, there are quite a few different methods of bending ply. If you are making long thin parts (chair legs, etc) then mechanical clamping, or a mechanical frame with a pressure bag are the way to go. If you are making seat pans or backs, then a vacuum bag is the way to go. Last year I had my materials students make skateboards as their wood component for the sophomore materials class, we did this in a vacuum bag. The biggest challenge of all with bent ply however, is getting the drat veneer. Every time I would find a supplier that was willing help me when I was a student, they would be out of business in 6 months. Thanks China for dumping lovely furniture on our markets and running our companies out of business. I used to be all into bent ply and I've since moved on, not because I dont think it is great, but when one of your peers makes something like this you just decide that you've been outclassed and it is time to find a new niche.  Also, I got really into hand tools.
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Apr 2, 2009 20:42
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Since I moved to Florida, I’ve always wanted to own a citrus tree. The wife suggested a lemon tree since we seem to use lemons and lemon juice in almost everything from chicken to fish, lemonade, guacamole, or watever. Here’s the beautiful Meyer Lemon tree from Home Depot for $38.99:  The thing is, I didn’t want to put it in the ground just yet. Hurricane season is just around the corner, and I don’t want this thing blown to shreds or to the next county, so I reasoned that I should put it in a planter until after November. The only problem was the cost of large planters. Those thinga are expensive! I wanted to give this baby room to grow a bit. And if we like it in the planter, we might even leave it there. I figured I could build one for cheaper than I could buy one, and that way, I could move it to shelter if the need arises. The pot it is in is 14” X 14” so I decided to double that and make the planter 30” X 30”, and use pressure treated outdoor lumber, I cut 4x4s 30” long:  I decided to use ¾” wooden slats for the sides, and to hold them in, I cut “slots” all the way down the length each of the 4x4s on two sides, one inch in. ( I didn’t have a dado bit, so I just made multiple passes with my 1/8” blade on the table saw)  Holding the frame together are 1x4s, 30” long on the top and spaced 3.5” up from the bottom:  ( I put a small ¾” peice of wood for a spacer 3.5” long at the bottom of each slot in the 4x4s to keep the side slats from goin all the way to the bottom and falling through) On the four slats that will be the bottom-most slat on each side, I attached a 2x2 “lip” that will form a rest for the 2x4s (that make the bottom of the planter) to sit on:  In this next picture you are looking down into the box and can see the first slats with the 2x2s attached:  And here you can see the 2x4s being laid in to form the bottom of the planter. (I was going to use 1x2’s, but I figured they wouldn’t hold the weight very well.) 
Bantaras fucked around with this message at 04:07 on Apr 5, 2009 |
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Apr 5, 2009 00:28
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Laying the slats in the grooves: And here’s the finished planter with tree inside:  I was amazed at how huge the thing turned out. It’s way too big and overpowers the front yard. The wife protested as well! I decided to cut the thing down by 4” height AND width, and started on the project this morning. Here’s the final result:  I drilled a few holes in the bottom 2x4s for drainage. It looks like it will have plenty of room to grow, but even being a bit smaller, the thing is very heavy! I’m not sure it’s as mobile as I thought it would be, but maybe with a furniture mover’s cart, I might be able to move it out of harms way if I have to. The thing looks like a crate, and I thought it would be cool to dress it up as such. I found an old lemon crate label from the 1930’s:  but it wasn’t quite right because it says California and it’s obvious the tree would never have Arnold Swarzenager as it’s governor, so we did some photochopping. I changed the state and then I changed the company name to our family name:  Kind of my way of being cute I guess. Bantaras fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Apr 5, 2009 |
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Apr 5, 2009 00:29
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Could someone recommend me a good table saw for getting into this? I saw a page back a lot of debate on it, and the consensus trended towards spending ~$500 on one, which is fine, but about the most I'm willing to spend. Anyone care to suggest one on Amazon, or stocked by HD or Lowes? edit: http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=159372-46578-C10FL&detail=desc&lpage=none any good? I know the Grizzly http://grizzly.com/products/g0444 is a good pick; but its REALLY pushing my budget as I need to pick up a plunge router too!
Walked fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Apr 5, 2009 |
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Apr 5, 2009 06:33
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Bantaras posted:Awesome planter box Very nice! I have been thinking about doing something similar, and this looks like a great design to get some inspiration from.
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Apr 5, 2009 13:56
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Walked posted:Could someone recommend me a good table saw for getting into this? I saw a page back a lot of debate on it, and the consensus trended towards spending ~$500 on one, which is fine, but about the most I'm willing to spend. That Hitachi is not bad, but if memory serves correctly, I don't think it comes with a fence. So, that's one more thing you'd have to buy with it. Try looking at the comparably priced Ridgid models at Home Depot. The only problem with actually looking that up online is that they sell a slightly different model (for a slightly different price, too, I think) on-line than in-store. As far as the Grizzly goes, I do love myself some Grizzly products. However, if that is already a budget buster, then the Ridgid would likely be the best option right now. Plus, the cheapest Grizzly with a riving knife comes in at $795. The new in-store Ridgid model may come with one (don't recall for sure) for around $500.
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Apr 5, 2009 14:03
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How is this table saw? I'm probably going to pick one up sometime in the next few months and I liked the rack and pinion adjustments for the fence. I don't know if that's just gimmicky though. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=246259-70-DW744X&lpage=none
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Apr 5, 2009 15:12
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Unless you need the super portability I'd spend another 100 or so and get one of the Grizzly contractors. Much more saw for the money, not to mention much more stable. I finally decided to throw a finish on this tabletop I've been messing around with. I'm hoping it'll inspire me to figure out the base for it. Right now I'm thinking of getting a large diameter pine tree "log" and spraying it with poly. Like a pedestal.   
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Apr 5, 2009 17:31
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ChaoticSeven posted:Unless you need the super portability I'd spend another 100 or so and get one of the Grizzly contractors. Much more saw for the money, not to mention much more stable.
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Apr 5, 2009 19:27
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PMan_ posted:The new in-store Ridgid model may come with one (don't recall for sure) for around $500. The Rigids at Home Depots in my area do not have riving knives but they may all be older models. ChaoticSeven posted:I finally decided to throw a finish on this tabletop I've been messing around with. I'm hoping it'll inspire me to figure out the base for it. I still think you should go with a trestle base. Something like:    Not a trestle but kind of neat. 
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Apr 5, 2009 21:12
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PMan_ posted:That Hitachi is not bad, but if memory serves correctly, I don't think it comes with a fence. So, that's one more thing you'd have to buy with it. Try looking at the comparably priced Ridgid models at Home Depot. The only problem with actually looking that up online is that they sell a slightly different model (for a slightly different price, too, I think) on-line than in-store. Ended up picking up a Ridgid on Craigslist for about half price. It's missing the riving knife, but I can order that online on the Ridgid parts site. Woo.
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Apr 6, 2009 03:04
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moana posted:Wow - gorgeous. Did I miss a post by you on how you did this? Did you get the wood from one of the places you linked in the OP? It was originally one long board. I cut it in half where I judged I could make the grain match up the best when I joined them lengthways, since I only had this one thick piece and so couldn't pick and choose for something perfect. After that I prepared them in the normal way IE: jointed, ripped and planed. There were several rotten spots on the edges, but mostly centered around those two larger holes in the tabletop you can see in the picture. I chiseled these out by hand, then tried to break the edges and smooth it all out. To do the bumpy things on the edges I used a belt sander, then hand sanded them all out to 220, along with the rest of the table. Wherever there were knots, and there were many knots, I mixed up a batch of two part epoxy and put a couple drops of "Antique Maple" Transtint dye so that the epoxy was black for all practical purposes. Applied this on all the knot cracks and a couple spots that just plain looked bad. One spot went all the way through the table so I had to make a temporary patch on the bottom to hold the epoxy while it set up. Then I sanded it all down nice and flush. The finish is Minwax wipe on polyurethane which I'm still trying to master, keep getting raised lines. I think I'll try using a little wad of cotton to wrap the cloth around, sort of like how I've seen people apply shellac. The wood is just plain old western red cedar, and I got it and some other lumber in exchange for helping and teaching a guy to build a dovetailed blanket chest, also cedar, for his girlfriend. Looked just like the one I posted here sometime in the last few months. wormil posted:The Rigids at Home Depots in my area do not have riving knives but they may all be older models. I'm really digging the third picture. It would also give me a chance to learn how to use this Domino that has been criminally neglected since I bought it. I've only used it to align a face grain cutting boards, which is pathetic considering the money I spent on it and the CT33 vacuum. Since money is tight I've been seriously considering selling it, but that would just cause other problems and needs. I don't have a mortiser, mortising chisels or a tenoning jig. ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 03:42
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The wife has tasked me with building two cabinets, one for all my audio/video/gaming equipment and the other to hold dvds, games and related accessories. I plan to build them from birch plywood and dye them black, nothing fancy. The A/V cabinet has to be practical, look nice, hide the cords, yet allow for ventilation. I try to remember to take pictures as I go. I have one more project for which I have no actual plan. We often eat informally in the living room while watching television. I hate tv trays. Ideally I would like to come up with an idea for a coffee table-like thing that could serve both functions while not being hideous. Ideas? edit: ChaoticSeven posted:I don't have a mortiser, mortising chisels or a tenoning jig. You can probably get away with one mortising chisel and shop build a tenoning jig. wormil fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 03:48
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Hm. Ever see those tackle boxes with the nesting, folding trays that unfold and move upward and away from you at the same time? My idea would be to emulate that,in reverse, with the final extension of the coffee table top ending up at TV tray height. The base would have to be of decent weight and or anchored to the floor behind two of the legs where nobody could see it. That would depend on how much of a counterweight you end up needing. Now that I think about it that's a loving awesome coffee table idea and I want one.
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Apr 6, 2009 04:57
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ChaoticSeven posted:The base would have to be of decent weight and or anchored to the floor... Interesting idea, perhaps it could be cantilevered. edit: saw this and gave me ideas http://www.semigoods.com/servlet/Detail?no=77 http://www.perfect-coffee-tables.com/convertible-coffee-table.html I've seen these but I have no idea where to get the hardware. (fake edit) found the mechanism but drat, $230  btw, another cool base for that slab 
wormil fucked around with this message at 06:11 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 05:34
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dyne posted:How is this table saw? I'm probably going to pick one up sometime in the next few months and I liked the rack and pinion adjustments for the fence. I don't know if that's just gimmicky though. Dear god man spend the extra $70 and get the Ridgid with the granite top and the riving knife. That Dewalt isnt even in the same league.
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Apr 6, 2009 17:10
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Walked posted:Ended up picking up a Ridgid on Craigslist for about half price. It's missing the riving knife, but I can order that online on the Ridgid parts site. Woo. Unless it has a granite top, it is missing the splitter, because the only Ridgid saw produced with a riving knife so far is the granite topped one (which is really just a rebadged steel city) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Riving_knife I'm not being a dick, the difference is important. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 17:12
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ChaoticSeven posted:Unless you need the super portability I'd spend another 100 or so and get one of the Grizzly contractors. Much more saw for the money, not to mention much more stable. That's really beautiful. And for legs, well, you could always come into the blacksmithing thread and ask one of us. 
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Apr 6, 2009 18:37
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My sister recently took up woodworking. She has a router and is doing all her cabinetry. Can you guys recommend a tool for a beginner that would make a big difference to their work? I'd like to get here a present and be supportive of her new hobby. Thanks!
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Apr 6, 2009 19:02
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What are you looking to spend? Some stuff under $100 I'd have loved if someone had bought me: 12" Starrett Square Incra 1000SE Miter Gauge Incra 18 Inch Marking Rule Set Books: Taunton Illustrated Guide to Cabinet Construction Taunton Illustrated Guide to Finishing Woodworking with the Router A nice 5 inch Random Orbital Sander and a couple assorted sets of hook and loop paper (Or go spendy and get a Bosch 1250DEVS 6", $250 but the thing is a loving Cadillac.) VV Oh yeah, the Kreg Jig rocks. http://www.amazon.com/Kreg-K3MS-Master-Pocket-System/dp/B0009VD03Y/ref=pd_bbs_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1239042822&sr=8-3 ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Apr 6, 2009 |
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Apr 6, 2009 19:22
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Socratic Moron posted:My sister recently took up woodworking. She has a router and is doing all her cabinetry. Can you guys recommend a tool for a beginner that would make a big difference to their work? I'd like to get here a present and be supportive of her new hobby. It's often difficult to buy tools for a woodworker because we can be so particular but if she's doing cabinetry then a biscuit joiner would be very handy. The Porter Cable was the best on the market when I bought mine several years ago. A less expensive but equally useful product is the Kreg Jig. Both are used for joining panels together or attaching face frames to cabinets.  
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Apr 6, 2009 19:26
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Tell me about jointing without a jointer or ability to use hand planes. I attempted to set-up my router table for jointing, using a straight bit and those Rockler router table fence shims, but the results were...shall we say "mixed" at best. I don't know if I need more practice, or just to go ahead and get a jointer.
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Apr 6, 2009 19:43
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This is probably a very stupid question, however google has not been helpful. I'm curious as to how I'd approach cutting a square (lets say 5x6") through a piece of 1/2" MDF or 3/4" MDF and do it cleanly. Is there something that would be able to do this thats not terribly expensive? I want something clean, so a jigsaw wouldnt work. Not already involved in any project or anything, but in the preliminary planning stages and doing my research in advance
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Apr 6, 2009 22:08
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Walked posted:This is probably a very stupid question, however google has not been helpful. A plunge router is what works the best. A drill and a jigsaw would be my second choice. I used to prep commercial doors and had to cut a bunch of holes for windows.
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Apr 6, 2009 22:36
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I would use a quality jigsaw and a straightedge unless you have a bunch of holes to cut.PMan_ posted:Tell me about jointing without a jointer or ability to use hand planes. I attempted to set-up my router table for jointing, using a straight bit and those Rockler router table fence shims, but the results were...shall we say "mixed" at best. I don't know if I need more practice, or just to go ahead and get a jointer. If you can afford a 6"+ jointer you'll never regret buying one. I can hand plane a table flat but I've never mastered hand planing a square edge. wormil fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Apr 7, 2009 |
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Apr 7, 2009 02:14
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JEEVES420 posted:A plunge router is what works the best. A drill and a jigsaw would be my second choice. Ah, excellent. Can you get sharp corners with the router? I'd assume not, but I'm still learning. Otherwise, with the router, how do you get it to hold true to being square? Is there a jig you can buy? Or is it just using a straightedge?
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Apr 7, 2009 03:12
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PMan_ posted:Tell me about jointing without a jointer or ability to use hand planes. I attempted to set-up my router table for jointing, using a straight bit and those Rockler router table fence shims, but the results were...shall we say "mixed" at best. I don't know if I need more practice, or just to go ahead and get a jointer. You can use a guide board to easily get an edge square to the face of a board with a hand plane. You make a sandwich with a guide board (2), a spacer, and your workpiece (1). As you are planing, hold the side of the plane (3) against the guide board. For jointing two boards to be glued up on the edges, there is a method using a router that I've never tried, but seems interesting. You basically lay the two boards side by side, then run the router right up the seam cutting both boards at the same time. You wouldn't even need a straightedge since any side to side movement would be mirrored and the two edges will match up perfectly.
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Apr 7, 2009 07:47
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