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Crosspost from A/V arena: I want to build a 2x12" guitar speaker cabinet, and have a question about table saw use. I need a length of 32 inches for one of the cuts, but my table saw ripfence only goes to 25.5 inches. What should I do? I've thought of two things: Have Home Depot cut it and use a circular saw. If Home Depot fucks up the cut by even a little bit, it won't fit together. I've tried and failed to get straight cuts with a circular saw. Brainstorming: I need pieces that are 32x12" and 32x23"(not counting in adjustments to make them fit together). I buy a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood. I have Home Depot cut it into 4 36” x 24” sheets and 2 24” x 24” sheets, using three cuts. I put the scrap wood against the rip fence. So when I'm making the large pieces, I use the 36 x 24 cut sheets, have 4" against the rip fence and 32" on the other side. The other side cut would be the real one, and the piece against the rip fence would be scrap Would this pose any safety issues? Can I use the miter gauge somehow?
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Apr 1, 2009 07:16
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Dominoes posted:Crosspost from A/V arena: I want to build a 2x12" guitar speaker cabinet, and have a question about table saw use. I need a length of 32 inches for one of the cuts, but my table saw ripfence only goes to 25.5 inches. What should I do? I've thought of two things: Have Home Depot cut it and use a circular saw. If Home Depot fucks up the cut by even a little bit, it won't fit together. I've tried and failed to get straight cuts with a circular saw. Don't trust home depot to make precision cuts. Get a straight piece of something and clamp it to your board to use as a fence for your circular saw.
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Apr 1, 2009 12:22
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Fire Storm posted:Get a multimeter, grab that chart (mine was behind the main panel (the one with the dials)) and test every component that you can. Update on the dryer. The wiring diagram helped me rule out everything but the valve coils, ignitor and flame sensor, and it turned out that the main coil was shorted - read zero ohms on the multimeter when it's supposed to be over 1000. It's working again with a replacement.
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Apr 3, 2009 18:54
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Don't trust home depot to make precision cuts. Get a straight piece of something and clamp it to your board to use as a fence for your circular saw. gross posted:Update on the dryer.
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Apr 3, 2009 21:13
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I believe the home I just bought has the original weather stripping on the windows and doors. To help insulate I would be better served replacing the weather-stripping than just adding an adhesive foam around the frame of my windows and doors, correct?
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Apr 4, 2009 22:14
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Regnevelc posted:I believe the home I just bought has the original weather stripping on the windows and doors. To help insulate I would be better served replacing the weather-stripping than just adding an adhesive foam around the frame of my windows and doors, correct? Yes, the old stuff will just get in the way & the new stuff is just supplemental. Replace from a fresh start, always a cleaner & more effective idea.
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Apr 5, 2009 16:41
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Regnevelc posted:I believe the home I just bought has the original weather stripping on the windows and doors. To help insulate I would be better served replacing the weather-stripping than just adding an adhesive foam around the frame of my windows and doors, correct? I agree with CF, you're better off starting fresh, and it'll look a lot better. Note that if you use silicone caulking, make sure it's paintable if you're going to be painting near the edges. If not, you'll have to peel it off again if you want to have clean looking edges around the windows. I say this, because that added about 14 hours of labor time to a house I painted once, because a well intentioned DIYer put clear silicone bathroom caulking everywhere he could think of on the exterior of his house. My question: I am frustrated by hanging things perfectly level. I've got one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Ryobi-ZRELL0001-AIRgrip-Laser/dp/B0015IVOU6 I saw my brother's and thought is was clever. In my mind this should make hanging pictures a snap - but it's not. Adjusting the level proves to be finicky at best, and I end up checking the height at both ends of the room with a tape measure. Even after that, I sometimes feel that it's not authentically level, which drives me crazy. I assume it would be the same with the old standard level, it's still just a air bubble level at the end of the day. Anyway, when something hangs with two or more screws, is there a bone simple way to guarantee they will be straight when you're done?
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Apr 6, 2009 04:03
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Local Yokel posted:I agree with CF, you're better off starting fresh, and it'll look a lot better. Note that if you use silicone caulking, make sure it's paintable if you're going to be painting near the edges. If not, you'll have to peel it off again if you want to have clean looking edges around the windows. I say this, because that added about 14 hours of labor time to a house I painted once, because a well intentioned DIYer put clear silicone bathroom caulking everywhere he could think of on the exterior of his house. You just need a non-lovely level. Get something they sell for a trade, not something they market to consumers - i.e. a contractor's level, not a "household" one. Expect to spend a decent amount on it. Personally, I've never encountered a decent level made out of plastic or aluminum, but I'm sure the higher end ones are fine. Make sure and test it. I just copied this from a guide online: "Put the level on a flat surface. Watch where the bubble rests, it should settle at the top. Test it on an incline, memorize where the bubble settles. Flip your carpenter's level the other way and set it down. The bubble should settle at the top, at a mirror image of where it was before." I also just asked my fiance who curates and hangs a lot of shows if she had any special advice and she said "Use a level." So I think you just have bad tools. I'm not sure what method exactly you've been using but just put a mark where you want the center of your piece to be, use a level and measure out to where the screws should be on either side, nail/drill, and hang. Shouldn't be more complicated than that.
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Apr 6, 2009 06:17
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If you want a 'True to the local gravity well' level, you need a flexible plastic tube, with a volume of water in it. Hold the tube in a U shape against the wall, mark the water level at each end. Draw your line between those 2 points. Voila - true level.
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Apr 6, 2009 20:30
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Cakefool posted:If you want a 'True to the local gravity well' level, you need a flexible plastic tube, with a volume of water in it. Hold the tube in a U shape against the wall, mark the water level at each end. Draw your line between those 2 points. Voila - true level. Holy poo poo this is genius.
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Apr 6, 2009 21:00
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teknicolor posted:Holy poo poo this is genius. Yeah that kind of blew my mind. Not sure I'd build a house with it but would definitely hang some pictures.
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Apr 6, 2009 22:00
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I saw some professional tile installers put level marks in a 40x40 room with convoluted edges this way. The tile comes out really nice; perfectly level around corners and into the hallway.
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Apr 7, 2009 12:16
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Awesome, I'm going to get some flexible clear pvc tubing.
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Apr 7, 2009 14:09
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Local Yokel posted:Awesome, I'm going to get some flexible clear pvc tubing. And when you're done...HOOKAH PARTY! 
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Apr 7, 2009 14:54
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I use this at work for quick sight leveling : I can get you within a hundredth of a foot as long as I can read the rod. Just imagine some heavy wood legs instead of the chinsy aluminum ones pictured. But this is how you really do it : 
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Apr 7, 2009 21:25
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What do I need to re-caulk my tub? I've got a leak around the faucets and handles and I'm going to do everything just to be safe. I know I've got to get it all out and clean the area, but what tools should I be using? Anything in general I should know before caulking, besides letting it dry for a day before getting it wet?
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Apr 9, 2009 21:39
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jackpot posted:What do I need to re-caulk my tub? I've got a leak around the faucets and handles and I'm going to do everything just to be safe. I know I've got to get it all out and clean the area, but what tools should I be using? Clean out as much existing caulk as you can right now, it will help the new stuff adhere and fill gaps better. You can apply a liquid caulk softener if you'd like, I've never used the stuff personally. Use a utility knife to cut it out and needlenose pliers to pull out any pieces that won't cut. They do make specialty tools for removing caulk, but I've never used them. Use a caulk gun to apply a new bead of caulk and smooth with your finger. Having paper towels on hand is nice in case you accidentally make a mess or get caulk where it shouldn't be. It has to be paper towels, TP isn't strong enough. Be prepared for this to take longer than you think. You could run into other things that you need to fix first before recaulking, like loose tiles, mildew, etc. Hopefully you have a second shower to use in the meantime for bathing. Then again, you are a goon...
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Apr 10, 2009 00:18
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And buy an actual caulking gun if you don't have one already. It's only a few bucks, and you'll never be able to put down a smooth bead with those mini squeeze tubes they sell unless you're some kind of artist. Wet your finger before you run it down a seam. If there's tile involved, smooth the seam in both directions so you don't leave little gaps wherever you go over the grout. But that's about all you should need. Caulking gun, one more tube of caulk than you think you'll need, and a fresh blade to clean out the old stuff.
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Apr 10, 2009 04:53
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For applying caulk, I prefer the little rounded plastic tool that is sold next to the caulk / caulk guns at hardware stores. Using your finger works, but it can also generate a ridiculously huge mess on any tools or surfaces you touch accidentally.
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Apr 10, 2009 16:54
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If you want the caulk line to be really nice looking, tape off along the seam. A strip of masking tape about 1/4" from each side of the corner will make the caulk job look much better.
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Apr 10, 2009 17:33
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csammis posted:For applying caulk, I prefer the little rounded plastic tool that is sold next to the caulk / caulk guns at hardware stores. Using your finger works, but it can also generate a ridiculously huge mess on any tools or surfaces you touch accidentally. Pampered Chef nylon scrapers are the perfect tool for this. They've got two different radius corners for rounding and a sharp corner for getting stuff off of where it shouldn't be. The people applying all the caulk on all the windows and doors at the new middle school I'm working on used super-cheap plastic knives (like the ones in the picnic section at the grocery store) and got FABULOUS beads with them; but they do it 10 hours a day for weeks at a time to get that good. Also, read the directions on your caulk if you're going to be painting. Some say to paint after 30 minutes and within 24 hours, some say to wait 24 hours to paint. Some say to use latex or oil paint, some say to use only water-based paint.
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Apr 10, 2009 22:16
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Why would the faucet in my bathroom put out next to no water volume? The kitchen sink has great amounts of water coming out as needed. The bath tub as well. However, the bathroom sink sucks. You turn on the hot or cold side, and you get a small, small amount of water coming out. It's enough to brush your teeth and wash your hands or whatever, but it's definitely less than I've ever seen in a sink. If you turn on both the hot AND cold water, the same amount comes out as if you just used one. I just moved in the place (renting) so I have no idea if it's a bunch of crap built up, but it doesn't seem that way since it's the same amount if you turn both handles or just one. I checked the main turn on for the valves underneath the sink and they are all the way to the left (full open). nwin fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Apr 11, 2009 |
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Apr 11, 2009 01:24
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nwin posted:Why would the faucet in my bathroom put out next to no water volume? The easiest thing to check is right at the end of the faucet. Sometimes there's a mesh at the end to catch debris. See if it's caught too much debris and needs to be cleaned out.
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Apr 11, 2009 01:35
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Local Yokel posted:The easiest thing to check is right at the end of the faucet. Sometimes there's a mesh at the end to catch debris. See if it's caught too much debris and needs to be cleaned out. That was it! Thanks!
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Apr 11, 2009 02:36
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I have a cheap thumbdrive (USB memory stick/jumpdrive/USB Flash Drive/flash drive, since so many people use so many different words for them) and the cheap as hell plastic shell came off and I want to put my own cover on it. Would something like Clear Polyester Casting Resin work or do I need to go for something more along the lines of an actual electronics-grade epoxy potting compound?
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Apr 11, 2009 05:08
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Thanks for the caulking tips, I'll most likely be putting them to use tomorrow. Next question: I bought a new shower head to install, but the old one won't come off. I've got the pipe coming out of the wall, and at the end of that is a metal piece with a ball at the end - the old shower head swiveled around the ball, see? The metal ball piece at the end of the pipe won't loving come off. I've tried gripping it with two channel-locks, one to loosen the ball and one to try to hold the pipe in place (I feel like if I yank too hard on the pipe I'll pull it right out of the wall or something; I'm putting a lot of pressure on it and it's not even budging), but that doesn't work. The previous owners have shown themselves to be near fuckwits when it comes to plumbing - is it possible they had trouble getting a tight seal on their new (in 1992) showerhead and so they somehow puttied or glued it in place? How do I get this thing off?
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Apr 11, 2009 06:02
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jackpot posted:How do I get this thing off? Post photos before you do anything though. Want to make sure I'm picturing this right.
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Apr 11, 2009 06:11
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Fire Storm posted:I have a cheap thumbdrive (USB memory stick/jumpdrive/USB Flash Drive/flash drive, since so many people use so many different words for them) and the cheap as hell plastic shell came off and I want to put my own cover on it. Would something like Clear Polyester Casting Resin work or do I need to go for something more along the lines of an actual electronics-grade epoxy potting compound? You should be fine. If you're concerned at all about shorting anything, get some clear heat shrink tubing and shrink it on first. You can test it the clear resin with a multimeter to check for conductance to be sure. If you mix in glitter or something that's the part that would likely be conductive.
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Apr 11, 2009 15:38
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Fire Storm posted:Fire. OR, more specifically, a blowtorch. IF they epoxied, glued or soldered the old one on, a plumbing torch could loosen the shower head but will likely make the old one drat useless and non-recoverable. NWS   Click here for the full 800x533 image.  Click here for the full 800x533 image.
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Apr 11, 2009 16:18
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You know if it's giving you that much trouble, you could try unscrewing the shower head arm from the wall and replacing it. You can get a shower head arm for $10.
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Apr 11, 2009 17:18
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kid sinister posted:You know if it's giving you that much trouble, you could try unscrewing the shower head arm from the wall and replacing it. You can get a shower head arm for $10.
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Apr 11, 2009 17:50
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An outdoor faucet is leaking and I want it to stop. It was going pretty bad until I took a couple whacks at the handle with a hammer and then it slowed down to a small drip. Is there anything that could be wrong besides a cracked or leaky washer inside?
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Apr 11, 2009 21:00
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jackpot posted:Easier said than done. I don't have access to where it attaches inside the wall; there's an access panel on the other side, in the bedroom, but it's meant for the faucets, only three feet high starting at the floor. The shower head arm is four feet above the highest point I can get to. I don't like the idea of unscrewing it, screwing in a new one, and having it leak like a bastard in a space I can't get to without tearing a hole in the wall. Have you tried the torch idea yet? This is what finally solved a stuck pipe joint for me after trying a few other things. Just don't burn your house down. Question: I've got a little hammer driver, I'll attach a photo, and it's extremely handy. It's got a little sleeve (it's black in the photo) which raises or lowers some little rounded prongs inside (not sure what you'd call them). Their function, though, is to hold the bit that you're using so that it doesn't fall out every time you point the thing downwards. They work nicely if your bit has an indent at the rear. If not, it just snugs things up a little. Well, I tried using a double-ended phillips bit in the driver today, and those little prongs slipped tighter onto some part of the bit, but the sleeve that you pull to let it loose has jammed in place. In addition to this, the bit is very slightly at an angle. Everything is jammed up tight, and I need to get the bit out. I can't figure out how to get things loose again, and I'm in the middle of a project that I need this driver for. Can anyone help me, or give me some ideas? Local Yokel fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Apr 12, 2009 |
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Apr 12, 2009 01:48
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Never-mind, I solved it on my own. The answer was to pull really freakin' hard on the sleeve with something grippier than fingers.
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Apr 12, 2009 05:20
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jackpot posted:That putty-looking stuff scrapes off with my fingernails, but other than that I don't know what it is. I sprayed a little WD40 around there in the hopes of working its way into the threads and loosening it up a little, but it did nothing. The putty-looking stuff is (I hope) thread sealant. It's probably doing its job and preventing stuff leaking through the threads. Try using a pair of pipe wrenches if you can buy or borrow them, because I can't imagine channel locks giving you a very good grip on that. You're probably doing just as much squeezing as turning. 
gross fucked around with this message at 16:42 on Apr 12, 2009 |
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Apr 12, 2009 16:38
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jackpot posted:That putty-looking stuff scrapes off with my fingernails, but other than that I don't know what it is. I sprayed a little WD40 around there in the hopes of working its way into the threads and loosening it up a little, but it did nothing. gross posted:The putty-looking stuff is (I hope) thread sealant. It's probably doing its job and preventing stuff leaking through the threads. Try using a pair of pipe wrenches if you can buy or borrow them, because I can't imagine channel locks giving you a very good grip on that. You're probably doing just as much squeezing as turning.
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Apr 12, 2009 22:04
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moana posted:An outdoor faucet is leaking and I want it to stop. It was going pretty bad until I took a couple whacks at the handle with a hammer and then it slowed down to a small drip. Is there anything that could be wrong besides a cracked or leaky washer inside? I don't know what your issue may be, I've not worked with those beyond turning them on and off and attaching a hose. It would be very cheap to replace the packing inside though, so it's worth a try before you do anything else. http://www.michaelholigan.com/Departments/TVShow/seg_tscript.asp?ts_id=9520&text_type=T&text_page=1
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Apr 13, 2009 04:11
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Local Yokel posted:I don't know what your issue may be, I've not worked with those beyond turning them on and off and attaching a hose. It would be very cheap to replace the packing inside though, so it's worth a try before you do anything else.
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Apr 13, 2009 04:14
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moana posted:Awesome, thank you very much. I just bought a wrench at Home Depot today, so hopefully I can get this opened up and see if that's the problem! Don't forget to turn of the water from inside first.
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Apr 13, 2009 13:34
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Fire Storm posted:This, and if it doesn't work, use a blowtorch on the head of the Maybe while he's there he can also fix our clogged kitchen sink. And whatever else goes wrong in the meantime. [Cue the 'welcome to the joys of home ownership!' jokes]
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Apr 13, 2009 17:22
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