|
Petromalt? Vet suggested I give him anti-hairball treats or this stuff that comes in what looks like a deodorant stick, that the cats can lick and it has mineral oil(?) in it.
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2009 13:02
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 04:26 |
|
|
Cat grass does a pretty good job of helping them hork up hairballs too, so you can always grow that. They sure do love chewing on it! I grow it in pots, and keep it away from them until it's 3-4" tall, then let them have at it. When they've chewed it down to nubbins, I take it away again 'til it grows back.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2009 13:26
|
|
|
mr. nazi posted:Petromalt? Yeah that stuff, different brand that I bought, but the same idea. Cat grass works too, as pointed out, but unfortunately for me everytime I tried growing cat grass the drat cats managed to get at it and then I would come home to soil and grass remnants all over my appartment. Moved into a house now though, so I'm going to try my hand at some grass growing. And, of course, catnip 
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2009 14:45
|
|
|
Do you have anywhere in your place that the cats can't get to? For me it's my office; I have to keep them out of there per my husband's instructions that we attempt to avoid cat hair in the computers  But it comes in handy for things like growing cat grass, because I can then only bring it out when I can supervise, and then put it away until it grows back.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2009 15:08
|
|
|
Fire In The Disco posted:Do you have anywhere in your place that the cats can't get to? We always had a cats-go-anywhere policy in our appartment. Then again, there was no real way to shut the out then because my Bengal can open every door in that appartment! I moved to Ireland last week though, and in a house with locking doors and stiff door handles now, so Mango won't be able to open everything. Still unpacking at the moment so the cats have free run of the house (and they're LOVING stairs for the first time!). I guess we might shut off the sitting room from the cats, but its hard to break a habit of letting them go everywhere. They can't get in the utility room with the washing machines etc. but its not the brightest room so probably not great to grow plants in.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2009 17:26
|
|
|
Fire In The Disco posted:What was the fancy stuff he recommended? Is it prescription or not? Unfortunately I wasn't at the appointment due to work, but my boyfriend took her, and he doesn't remember the name of the food other than that it was "something organic and mostly meat." I hope the pills won't be more trouble than they're worth. She's probably the worst cat to give a pill to that I've ever dealt with. It seems like it causes her lots of anxiety to have a pill shoved down her throat. I just hope this works, because she's quickly becoming bald and I can tell her skin is sensitive from the licking and biting.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2009 22:09
|
|
|
Well, if it's "mostly meat" your vet recommends, then I have to commend him. Far, far, far too many vets are sponsored by Iams and Hills (Science Diet), and never recommend high quality foods. I think it was recommended to you earlier, but have you had a chance to go look at the Pet Nutrition Megathread? There are a lot of great recommendations for cat food in there, as well as the reasons why it's better to feed premium or ultra premium food. As for my own cats, they eat grain-free wet and dry food, which is probably what your vet's getting at with the organic, mostly meat food. My cats eat Innova EVO dry and a few varieties of Merrick wet. The prices on both might make you blanch when you see them, but please, keep in mind that the better the food, the less of it your cat needs-- for an adult cat, if I remember correctly (I have my food in a bin and don't have a bag handy), the recommendation is 1/4 cup twice a day of Innova EVO dry. I'd be surprised if my adult cats ate that much. When there's no filler, they need a lot less food.
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2009 22:26
|
|
|
vikivil posted:I hope the pills won't be more trouble than they're worth. She's probably the worst cat to give a pill to that I've ever dealt with. It seems like it causes her lots of anxiety to have a pill shoved down her throat.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2009 01:54
|
|
|
Emergency Exit posted:I don't want to derail the semi-topical threads with this question so I'm asking here. That's a good question, but I don't know the answer. I would speculate that LGD would be more common with a smaller flock, kept in a fenced in pen in the "yard," while a herding dog would be used for a giant flock, where a human shepherd (and horse) might also spend the night with the flock for protection. That's just a guess, I hope someone can fill us in with the reality.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2009 03:56
|
|
|
Is it possible for a breeder who has 3 breeds to be reputable? Just curious, because I've heard from various people that any more than 2 is an automatic BYB/puppy mill/whatever. Assuming they know their breeds in and out (temperament, health issues, pedigrees - everything there is to know, basically), showed/worked their dogs, and had enough time and money. I'm not asking about any breeder in particular, just wondering what PI thinks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2009 08:17
|
|
|
Emergency Exit posted:I don't want to derail the semi-topical threads with this question so I'm asking here. The Pyrenean Shepherd and the Great Pyrenees were used in tandem throughout history to work with livestock together. I've heard that the reason Pyr Sheps are small has to do with a few factors: 1) it allows them to be more agile 2) the dog never had to take on the role of guardian like some other herding breeds had to at times because of the work of the Great Pyrenees 3) it was actually necessary in order to not be seen as a threat by the LGD Pyrs I'm sure there is some manner of socialization as well. There are also differences in herding styles, so maybe the style of a border collie which is more authoritative and prey-driven wouldn't go over well with a Pyr, but what the Pyr Sheps do would...
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2009 08:18
|
|
|
bee soup posted:My cat was also just put on amitriptyline as well, but in a cream form that I'm to rub on his ear. If you're on a long supply, you may ask your vet if you could get the cream instead. Satchmo's on it for 21 days, and since he's new to me and my home, I think pilling him every day for so long would just keep him anxious. Whoa, that makes so much sense. Of COURSE anxious cats that need amitriptyline are going to be hard to pill. What was your cat put on it for? Thanks for the food recommendations everyone. I'm definitely checking out the premium brands, but of course every store that has them is closed for the holiday weekend. Here I was, all along, thinking I was giving my kitties the "best" because I always heard Iams was good.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2009 15:10
|
|
|
If you don't have any luck with the cream, there are things called Pill Pockets that might help. They're very sticky treats you can hide the pill in. They worked for one of my cats for a while until he caught on, at least.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2009 15:24
|
|
|
vikivil posted:What was your cat put on it for?  Good luck with your anxious kitty!
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2009 15:43
|
|
|
Umilele posted:Is it possible for a breeder who has 3 breeds to be reputable? Just curious, because I've heard from various people that any more than 2 is an automatic BYB/puppy mill/whatever. Assuming they know their breeds in and out (temperament, health issues, pedigrees - everything there is to know, basically), showed/worked their dogs, and had enough time and money.
|
|
#
?
Apr 12, 2009 16:20
|
|
|
That's kind of how I feel, too. I can certainly understand being leery - but if the breeder is responsible and does everything right, then I don't see an issue.  Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 01:17
|
|
|
I adopted a cat, Satchmo, from a shelter on Tuesday, and he's been super stressed out requiring two vet visits. He's finally doing better, and a stupid kitten follows me home and into my apartment tonight. I feel bad for the little guy, because he's waaay too friendly to be a regular stray. I put him in the bathroom away from Satchmo, stuffed a towel under the door, and put some weight in front so neither should be able to open the door. Satchmo seems interested, but not too concerned, but I'm really worried about him regressing because he's made so much progress. I have Feliway going, so maybe it won't be too stressful for everyone. Fingers crossed! I'm going to call animal services tomorrow to pick him up and check for a microchip, but is having another cat in the vicinity going to seriously gently caress with my cat? Or, since used to the shelter life, will he likely be used to having other cats around that he can hear/smell but not see? Could he possibly transfer diseases to Satchmo, even being in a separate room? Is this a terrible idea and should I just put him back outside?
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 05:38
|
|
|
My cat Poop has had an unusual amount of "eye-boogers" ever since he was little. Is this most likely a drainage problem in one of his ducts? If so, is it harmful? He doesn't seem to mind it.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 06:31
|
|
|
bee soup posted:I'm going to call animal services tomorrow to pick him up and check for a microchip, but is having another cat in the vicinity going to seriously gently caress with my cat? Or, since used to the shelter life, will he likely be used to having other cats around that he can hear/smell but not see? Could he possibly transfer diseases to Satchmo, even being in a separate room? Is this a terrible idea and should I just put him back outside? Unless the cats are able to actually physically touch, I'm pretty sure you're safe. Good luck with the new addition!
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 06:33
|
|
|
Worlds Best Grandma posted:My cat Poop has had an unusual amount of "eye-boogers" ever since he was little. Is this most likely a drainage problem in one of his ducts? If so, is it harmful? He doesn't seem to mind it. Same with one of my cats, in only one of his eyes. Ask the vet next time you go to be sure, but mine said it wasn't a big deal at all. I just wet a cotton ball with warm water and clean the eye boogers off when I notice them building up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 07:03
|
|
|
bee soup posted:I adopted a cat, Satchmo, from a shelter on Tuesday, and he's been super stressed out requiring two vet visits. He's finally doing better, and a stupid kitten follows me home and into my apartment tonight. I feel bad for the little guy, because he's waaay too friendly to be a regular stray. I put him in the bathroom away from Satchmo, stuffed a towel under the door, and put some weight in front so neither should be able to open the door. Satchmo seems interested, but not too concerned, but I'm really worried about him regressing because he's made so much progress. I have Feliway going, so maybe it won't be too stressful for everyone. Fingers crossed! The only airborne thing I'd worry about is any sort of respiratory infection. Usually they'd have to bite or scratch each other to transfer anything. I'd keep them separated until the kitten gets vet checked though just to be safe. I doubt they'll be much problem with Satchmo integrating the little guy. You can always call the shelter you got him from and ask how he was around other cats. Most cats do better when they have a buddy around. It might even help him to relax a little. It's awesome you're going to take the little guy in if he's not chipped. Also, POST PICTURES OR ELSE!
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 10:50
|
|
|
Worlds Best Grandma posted:My cat Poop has had an unusual amount of "eye-boogers" ever since he was little. Is this most likely a drainage problem in one of his ducts? If so, is it harmful? He doesn't seem to mind it. Assuming the boogers are a normal dark brown sort of color, it's fine. Blocked tear ducts are pretty common, and while a vet can go in and attempt to open it up, this practically never works in my experience.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 14:12
|
|
|
Worlds Best Grandma posted:My cat Poop has had an unusual amount of "eye-boogers" ever since he was little. Is this most likely a drainage problem in one of his ducts? If so, is it harmful? He doesn't seem to mind it. My youngest boy has one eye that is perpetually boogery, as well as his nose. It's a brownish/black color. The vet says that's just him and nothing to worry about. Usually if it's a snotty green/yellow color is when you might want to get it checked out. Honestly, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get it checked out regardless but it's probably nothing serious. Just clean him up. I frequently pick my cats nose for him. It's one of those 'joys of pet ownership' type deals.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 16:02
|
|
|
My dog has been puking constantly today. Other than puking twice an hour, she seems fine. Is there anything I can give her to curb the vomiting?
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 18:12
|
|
|
IDemandSatisfaction posted:My dog has been puking constantly today. Other than puking twice an hour, she seems fine. Is there anything I can give her to curb the vomiting? You could give her pepcid, but if she's puking twice an hour she's not going to keep it down long enough to help. Take her to the vet. Even if it's not something serious, they can give her injectables to help with the vomiting. She's probably dehydrated by now, too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 18:16
|
|
|
KilGrey posted:My youngest boy has one eye that is perpetually boogery, as well as his nose. It's a brownish/black color. The vet says that's just him and nothing to worry about. Usually if it's a snotty green/yellow color is when you might want to get it checked out. Honestly, it wouldn't be a bad idea to get it checked out regardless but it's probably nothing serious. Just clean him up. I frequently pick my cats nose for him. It's one of those 'joys of pet ownership' type deals. We had a little tuxedo girl who showed up with runny eyes and the vet said the same thing - he thought it might be a mild allergy, or just the way she was. She was a great kitty even if she was a little gooey
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 23:04
|
|
|
RazorBunny posted:We had a little tuxedo girl who showed up with runny eyes and the vet said the same thing - he thought it might be a mild allergy, or just the way she was. She was a great kitty even if she was a little gooey Mines a tuxie too and my friend has the same issue with his Tux. I wonder if it's a common tux thing? It would be odd as all atux is is a domestic short/long hair though. I'm probably just more likely to notice other Tuxedos since I have one I guess.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 23:40
|
|
|
KilGrey posted:Mines a tuxie too and my friend has the same issue with his Tux. I wonder if it's a common tux thing? It would be odd as all atux is is a domestic short/long hair though. I'm probably just more likely to notice other Tuxedos since I have one I guess. Her sister was a very pale gray tabby and had similar issues, but hers cleared up as she got older and Eleanor's never did. Given how mutted up those cats were, I have serious doubts there was any connection between patterning and mucus production.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 00:27
|
|
|
Update on the kitten that wandered into my home last night: I took her into the vet today to check for a microchip, and no dice. The vet's office was amazing. They checked her for fleas, and printed out some 'found' posters for me, which I've put up in the area I found her. They also said that if I can't find the owner, and I decide to keep her, they can likely do a discounted rate on vaccinations and tests for FIV and feline leukemia. I've also posted found ads on the Humane Society website and craigslist. I have to believe that somebody is looking for this little booger. On the one hand, I hope someone steps forward to bring her back home, because I'm sure she misses the place, and I'm afraid that she might not get along with Satchmo. On the other hand: kitten! She's too charming. I'm calling her Elvis, for now. How long should I wait for her owners to contact me before I vet her and raise her as my own? And any advice on how to make her more comfortable in her current suite (the bathroom) would be awesome. She looks fairly large and beefy in this photo, but she's actually pretty skinny and teeny tiny; her head is about the size of a tennis ball. I'd say she's about 5 months old.  Click here for the full 1632x1224 image.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 01:04
|
|
|
RazorBunny posted:Her sister was a very pale gray tabby and had similar issues, but hers cleared up as she got older and Eleanor's never did. Given how mutted up those cats were, I have serious doubts there was any connection between patterning and mucus production. Yeah, and when you go looking for patters you usually find them. Bee Soup posted:Beautiful Grey Kitten! That is really awesome of the vet. I wouldn't worry to much about Satchmo and her getting along. Most cats eventually find some common ground, even if they aren't best friends that kitten pile each other. To make her bathroom suite more comfortable, make her a nice bed to sleep in and put some toys in with her. Play with her when you can so she gets some stimulation and interactions. Once or twice a day switch her and Satchmo so she can get out and stretch her legs in the living room. This will also help her and Satch learn each other smells for if you do introduce them. Has he noticed her yet? I'd give it a week or so before you take her in for farther vetting. Do you know if she's spayed? I assume Satchmo is neutered since he came from a shelter. If you keep her she's right about the age you'll want to get her spayed. Trust me, you don't want her going into heat. It's one of the most annoying things ever. Something else a lot of people don't know. Next time you go into Petco, tell them you rescued a stray and they'll give you a coupon book. It's a nice big book that has discounts for drat near everything in the store. Just say you heard they give out coupon books if you adopt a cat. Take the vet receipt for grey kitty or even the adoption paperwork for Satchmo.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 03:49
|
|
|
When did labradoodle/goldendoodle/whateverthefuckdoodle breeders start health testing?  I was trying to find an example of a mutt breeder with lovely, unhealthy dogs and astronomical prices, and out of 15+ sites that I've gone to so far, they ALL have CERF/OFA clearances, and some have even more testing, although they still have astronomical prices ($2500 for a mutt puppy, what the gently caress). I was expecting it to be much easier than this to find one. Not that there isn't still a myriad of other issues with doodle/whatever breeding, but... geez. Is health testing actually this common, or have I somehow just hit a bunch of breeder sites that do it?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 07:02
|
|
|
Thanks for all the advice, Kilgrey. The vet office suggested I only wait 48 hours until I have her vetted (i.e. Wednesday), but obviously I don't want to pay to take care of someone else's cat, especially if she's already had her vaccinations and is otherwise healthy, so I can see the benefit of waiting a bit longer. I didn't actually see a vet when I went in, I saw vet techs, and they said they didn't know if she was spayed, but the vet would know. They have been really great, both to Satchmo and Elvis. I really don't want her in my bathroom anymore. I either want somebody to come pick her up, or else I want to start integrating her into my household. And I can't do the latter without getting her vetted, of course. She's so full of energy and cuddles, and she mews quite a bit at night. It breaks my heart having to keep her in confinement, even if I do hang out with her frequently, because I know she wants to have more space and doesn't like being alone. She has a bed and toys, but she seems to prefer to sleep in the tub and play with me. I'll definitely swap her and Satchmo out for a bit during the day, but Satchmo was here first and is stressed with the move, so I don't want to keep him confined for too long. I'm just trying to put myself in the shoes of someone who's lost an animal, and it would definitely involve looking around the neighbourhood (which, yes, may or may not be the same neighbourhood in which I found her), and also looking at the lost/found ads on the Humane Society website. Although, I suppose it could be someone older who doesn't use the internet. Heavens. I'll call the Humane Society and the city's Animal Services today to see if I can register her as found, in case somebody calls them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 15:36
|
|
|
If she's only five months old, chances are she's not spayed. If she is, it had to have been done when she was really tiny (otherwise she'd still have short fur on her tummy). All they can do to see if she's spayed is shave her tummy and look for a scar, which should be pretty obvious on a 5-month old cat. My bet is she's not spayed. I really hope you're able to locate her family soon, but don't get your hopes up. Skinny kitten with no microchip isn't very promising. Have you tried letting Satchmo see the kitten? Shelter cats are sometimes more comfortable with stranger cats, and a lot of cats will be pretty mellow with a kitten when they might not like another adult cat around. Satchmo certainly knows she's there, but if he's not growling and hissing by the door, she's probably not bothering him too much. I've had the experience (and heard of others) where a resident cat is growling outside the door, all upset over a new cat, and when the door opens and the cat sees that it's a silly little kitten and not a huge monster, they really chill out. I would suggest that you go in on Wednesday for the basics - just testing and prevention for things she could give Satchmo - maybe just a combo test + deworming and check to see if she's spayed. As for vaccines, Elvis doesn't sound very rabid. And for distemper/FVRCP/whatever, a vaccine isn't going to give her immediate immunity to those things either if she already has them. If Satchmo is vaccinated, I think you'd be in the clear letting them mix after a negative combo test (assuming she's not sneezing, itchy, having diarrhea, or anything else abnormal). You can probably hold off on vaccines (and possibly a spay!) for a while longer, in case her family turns up.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 16:20
|
|
|
OK, this is a weird one. I bought a clicker recently to try to do a little clicker training with my dog. He's 2-2.5 years old and the only things I'm trying to get him to change are really like getting crazy when other dogs pass by on their leashes outside and barking when people walk past our apartment door. So, the first day I got the clicker, I did some stuff like basic commands (sit, lay down) that he does okay and used it to click when he sat and give treats etc, so he and I could both get used to this. From the beginning, he seemed to be weirded out by the clicker. That evening, when I took him on a walk, I brought it with to try some commands outside, used it a bunch while walking for various things. I gave him lots of praise, etc with it too, each time. Well, since that night, he's become slightly aloof/avoiding with me, decided he doesn't like sitting much anymore (which he did FINE before I was just trying the clicker out when I had him do it.) and such. Like I would get a treat, tell him to sit, and he'd run away. Also, he has this thing he's always sort of done where when I try to put the chain on him for walks, he would run away from me, but before when I could catch him, he would be excited to go out for a walk after that. Now when I put it on him he lays down and absolutely doesn't want to let me take him outside, or digs his heels in, which is horrible because I walk him about 95% of the time. Basically, tl;dr version: I tried to use a clicker with my dog for some small stuff, now he completely seems to hate me. Is this like a gently caress you for trying to train me thing, is it possible I hurt him or made him scared of outside? We have his yearly tomorrow so I suppose they can tell if he's sick or hurt but ughhh. I am pretty upset that I did something to destroy the nice balance we had.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 23:50
|
|
|
He may not like the clicker, especially if he was weirded out by it from the start. It's not something they automatically like--you have to "load" it first by clicking, giving a treat, clicking, giving a treat, many times until the dog is conditioned to associate the clicker with the happiness of getting the treat. Once that happens, the click itself becomes a reward because it triggers that good feeling, and then it is a useful training tool. It may be that if you skipped that step or went through it too quickly he was just weirded out by it. If so you can probably overcome it by doing the click, treat, click, treat repeatedly until he makes that positive association.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 00:02
|
|
|
Chaco posted:He may not like the clicker, especially if he was weirded out by it from the start. It's not something they automatically like--you have to "load" it first by clicking, giving a treat, clicking, giving a treat, many times until the dog is conditioned to associate the clicker with the happiness of getting the treat. Once that happens, the click itself becomes a reward because it triggers that good feeling, and then it is a useful training tool. It may be that if you skipped that step or went through it too quickly he was just weirded out by it. If so you can probably overcome it by doing the click, treat, click, treat repeatedly until he makes that positive association. OK, I'll try that. Any idea why he doesn't want to let me walk him anymore, or just backlash from the clicker? It's also sorta hard cause he's the only dog I've ever met that isn't food motivated so hopefully he'll be happy enough with the training liver bits to stop hating the clicker.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 00:11
|
|
|
I took in a stray* about 3-4 weeks ago. She looks to be about 6 months old and has turned into a hellion. If I am around she doesn't chew on anything and will just play with her toys or my other dog (A male small breed pit/Texas fence hopper mix). But when nobody is in the house she chews on drat near everything. This in and of itself is not a huge issue. It is when I try to discipline her...she gets scared and starts to pee. This of course makes me want to scream stop pissing but then she gets even more scared and she starts pissing again. My guess is she either used to get beat or something else terrible when she would get yelled at by the previous owner. Is there any way to stop the pissing so I can actually discipline her? I have never had a dog that I did not have from 6 weeks old so I don't knwo how to break bad habits such as this. *Our house doesnt have a fence connecting the side fence to the house. One night she was staring in our back door and it was cold out so we let her in and she stayed the night. She had no collar or chip that I can feel and when we let her go the next day she just kept coming back to us. We called all the shelters and would even drive her several blocks away but she just kept coming back. I have driven the neighbor hoods around us and have sen no signs posted. So it doesn't look the previous home wants her nor does she want them.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 00:35
|
|
|
My friend adopted a shelter dog who had this same piddling problem, so I'll tell you what worked for her: No negative reinforcement. Praise good behavior, and redirect the bad. If she's on the bed and not supposed to be, move her off the bed without saying anything and put her in timeout if you have to. My friend's dog also peed if you reached for her collar, so you may have to avoid things like this too. My friend kept the dog leashed while inside for the first while so if a behavior needed to be corrected, she could move the dog without having to grab her collar. The dog also peed when she was just too excited, like if she had been alone a few hours and someone got home. To fix this, they would come inside and not make eye contact with dog, not talk to her, not pet her - just put on the leash and go outside. Once she had peed in the grass, she got lots of praise and hellos. In short, stop doing whatever you're doing that triggers the peeing. Also, if she's that scared it wouldn't hurt to work with her on other basic commands/training (with lots of positive reinforcement) to help build up her confidence and make her more comfortable with you.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 00:58
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:I took in a stray* about 3-4 weeks ago. She looks to be about 6 months old and has turned into a hellion. If I am around she doesn't chew on anything and will just play with her toys or my other dog (A male small breed pit/Texas fence hopper mix). But when nobody is in the house she chews on drat near everything. This in and of itself is not a huge issue. It is when I try to discipline her...she gets scared and starts to pee. This of course makes me want to scream stop pissing but then she gets even more scared and she starts pissing again. How are you trying to discipline her? JEEVES420 posted:*Our house doesnt have a fence connecting the side fence to the house. One night she was staring in our back door and it was cold out so we let her in and she stayed the night. She had no collar or chip that I can feel and when we let her go the next day she just kept coming back to us. We called all the shelters and would even drive her several blocks away but she just kept coming back. I have driven the neighbor hoods around us and have sen no signs posted. So it doesn't look the previous home wants her nor does she want them. You wouldn't be able to feel a chip. They are to small. The only way to see if she has one is to take her to a vet or shelter and have her scanned. If you don't want to keep her don't just take her a few miles away and drop her off. That's not doing anything to help her, the people who live in that neighborhood or the problem of strays in general. Find a no kill shelter willing to take her in and drop her off there.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 01:51
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 04:26 |
|
|
If you do want to keep her, you should take her to a vet and get her checked out anyway. It's not super smart to be exposing your dog to whatever she may have picked up from out there. Vets will often cut you a deal if you tell them she is a stray. As an aside, your dog is neutered, right? Because she's about the spay age, and if he's unfixed too... As far as the chewing while you're away thing, have you considered crate training? That way she'll have a safe place to go, and she'll feel secure, and you won't worry. The peeing thing could just be related to her natural submissiveness. It doesn't always mean abuse. As mentioned, don't yell at her and don't loom over her. Also, you said that she was chewing while you're away, are you trying to discipline her after the fact? Because if so, that won't work. She won't know why you are yelling, and that will just make her more scared of you, and more likely to pee. You should only redirect her if you catch her in the act. Then once she's less skittish and has stopped peeing (in a few weeks/months, I mean) then you can correct her, but again, only if you catch her. Some dogs just don't have the best bladder control when excited (and/or submissive) but in my experience, they grow out of it when it's not encouraged. If you don't want to keep her, make signs of your own, or take her to a shelter, or find someone else to foster her. Just to reiterate what KilGrey said, don't just drop her off 'several blocks' away. If that's too much work, post your area, and I'm sure goons can help you find a good shelter.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 16:43
|
|