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Sits on Pilster posted:Does anyone here with a Cherokee have experience installing an aftermarket DIN stereo? There's basically just a large hole in the dashboard and my experiences have been any DIN-style stereo basically just sits in the hole supported by some flimsy plastic bracket supplied to you for free from Crutchfield. you can use the brackets off the stock radio screwed to the body of the aftermarket radio. The radio gets installed behind the dash face with out the trim ring so that only the face of the radio sticks through the opening. There are other ways to mount the radio but It looks best this way and doesn't make things complicated when you remove the dash panel in the future.
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Apr 2, 2009 10:08
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Hmmm. I never thought of that. Unfortunately the stock radio is long gone. I suppose I could run to a junk yard and pull one out of the countless Cherokees sitting around.
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Apr 2, 2009 17:57
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I ended up using one of those plastic mount kits for mine, still mounted it the same way though behind the panel so that only the face was sticking out, took a little fiddlin to get it to sit right, but it worked out well.
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Apr 3, 2009 02:29
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Argh. So apparently the Bilstein 5100 series doesn't actually come in a no lift version, even though it is listed as such. Looks like my 15 year old shocks will have to last for another week  As an aside, 4wd.com is being really awesome about it, although they seem a little upset with Bilstein for giving them a bad listing.
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Apr 3, 2009 16:43
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thegreatcodfish posted:Argh. So apparently the Bilstein 5100 series doesn't actually come in a no lift version, even though it is listed as such. Looks like my 15 year old shocks will have to last for another week FYI 2" lift shocks are usually the same as stock height shocks. Rancho 5000's for a 2" lift extend 2" longer than stock, but also compress 2" shorter than stock, so in theory you could even use them on a lowered vehicle.
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Apr 3, 2009 22:15
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jonathan posted:FYI 2" lift shocks are usually the same as stock height shocks. Rancho 5000's for a 2" lift extend 2" longer than stock, but also compress 2" shorter than stock, so in theory you could even use them on a lowered vehicle. They are 4" minimum lift unfortunately.
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Apr 4, 2009 00:25
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 picked up some canyons on thursday for cheap and got em mounted up. Going to Rausch Creek, PA today for my first wheelin trip.
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Apr 4, 2009 09:40
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Does anyone have any suggestions on how to tap into those mini goddamn fuses on the mini fuse box panel behind the glove box. I was all set to make a dome light kill switch and those goddamn mini gently caress rear end fuse holes are goddamn tiny and I can't get loving poo poo except a loving mini fuse to fit in the cocksucking hole. Yes, I know, just pull the fuse you goddamn simpleton. But sure as loving hell, I'll pull it, and it will fall out of wherever the gently caress I put it and then there wont be no loving interior lights so I can see to jerk off to local area attraction brochures. I didn't see no goddamn spade connectors that would fit either in the loving mini fuse hole or work correctly with the gauge wire I am using. Also have you bought copper wire lately? I had heard copper had come down, apparently the wire I got is fused with the aborted fetus souls of alien Mayan hybrid babies which happen to have gold teeth. shitasses. I know there is one for sale at quadratec, but I was hoping to go cheap and knock it out for less than 30 bucks. However I have already drank a case of loving beer, and have been swearing enough that the neighbors have gathered up their children and are not letting them play out side any more, so I suppose in metal anguish I have already paid more than I would have if I had just bought the whole goddamn thing to begin with. fucks sakes. goddamn.
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Apr 4, 2009 21:31
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Awesome. The AC unit is dying now. It was smoking earlier today. I think I might be getting close to the end of my time as a Jeep owner.
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Apr 4, 2009 22:31
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I'm trying to replace my rotors and pads, but my rotors are stuck completely on the truck and will not come off. Calipers and everything are off, I'm not doing anything wrong, it's just completely stuck. I've heated the outside of the rotor to expand the metal, no go. WD-40 didn't do the trick either. I've been beating it with a hammer for the last 3 hours and it isn't moving. Any other 98 or so Wrangler owners have this problem?
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Apr 8, 2009 19:02
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Rhyno posted:Awesome. The AC unit is dying now. It was smoking earlier today. Why don't you just go to a junkyard and get an A/C delete pulley?
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Apr 8, 2009 19:48
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cory ad portas posted:WD-40 didn't do the trick either. WD-40 is weak sauce and not really meant for that purpose. Try PB Blaster.
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Apr 8, 2009 20:43
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Jack_Handey posted:Why don't you just go to a junkyard and get an A/C delete pulley? Been to 2 Pick&Pulls and none of the Cherokees had that. Question, would the ac unit from a 96 work on my 99? They look the same but the 99is listed as "with clutch" on most sites. I ask because I can score an ac unit for $5. Question #2, how much as changed on the 4.0 motor from 93-99? I ask because I can not find a AC bypass for a 99 Cherokee. Rhyno fucked around with this message at 05:37 on Apr 9, 2009 |
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Apr 8, 2009 23:35
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02 TJ 4.0L Haynes suggests 75w90 for the D30. Jeepforum seems to think that anything less than 85w90 and you're asking for the front diff to explode. I understand a little about gear oil. I know 75w is going to heat up faster than 85w but how much faster? My Jeep is stock.
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Apr 9, 2009 06:40
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75W is fine but if you're out there abusing your Jeep with oversized tires on the trails constantly you might want to run a little heavier. When I last did the diffs I used 80W because it was the only weight in synthetic that I could find enough bottles of in the store to do the job.
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Apr 9, 2009 15:39
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First time Jeep owner. I just bought an '05 Rubicon (pretty much stock). How do you guys feel about the "Rubicon Express 2" Budget Boost"? I see it referenced in a few different places and all the reviews seem positive. Any glaring drawbacks I should be aware of? edit - link: http://www.4x4xplor.com/REBB.html That thing.
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Apr 10, 2009 05:46
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AMindsEscape posted:First time Jeep owner. I just bought an '05 Rubicon (pretty much stock). How do you guys feel about the "Rubicon Express 2" Budget Boost"? I see it referenced in a few different places and all the reviews seem positive. Any glaring drawbacks I should be aware of? If you're going to do a BB, you might as well go with the RC 2.5" kit, which includes progressive rate coils and shocks, and isn't much more expensive. The ride quality is excellent from all reviews. It's discussed here several pages back. If you go to Jeepforum in the TJ section, there's a gigantor thread on it called "RC 2.5 lift kit". One of the main reasons to avoid going with a BB is because although you gain clearance, you don't gain any additional suspension travel capability over stock, since you have to install extended bumpstops to keep the coils from popping off of the spacers. A true kit with new coils actually gives you additional travel potential, within the constraints generated by other stock parts such as brake lines and control arms. If you're doing the work yourself, the amount of work is about the same for either kit, but you get a better-performing kit from RC. About the only extra work required will be the installation of a rear track bar relocation bracket, which keeps the rear axle from moving off-center. This isn't a big deal and pretty much means unbolting the track bar, bolting the bracket onto the axle, then reinstalling the track bar onto the new bracket. If you choose to go with a BB, you're going with a kit that plenty of Jeeps have had good luck with, but with the RC kit available, there's almost no reason to go with a BB any more unless you already have a kit installed and want additional lift.
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Apr 10, 2009 07:02
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FYI, I found almost the perfect semi-secure storage container for TJs the other day. They're called "Smart Bins" and are pretty drat huge, tougher than the average plastic bin, and lockable. Your Walmart probably has them on sale right now for $40. They also drop down into the rear of a TJ and fit like a glove, with dimensions so perfect that they will bolt down into the bracket holes for the rear seat brackets. Here's a couple pictures, and I think you can figure it out from here. Put the bin in, measure a template over the seat bracket bolt holes, grab 4 metric 10x1.50x50 bolts, and bolt it in. I had to cut the bolt washers into a regtangular shape to make them fit correctly. No, it won't stop a determined thief, but when the soft top is on or down, it will stop the average joe from trying to mess with whatever I've thrown in there. It's really much bigger than it looks. It fits all of my tools and is still only half full.  
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Apr 10, 2009 07:08
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incredibull posted:RC 2.5 This should be stickied. Everything I've read about the RC 2.5 is that it is nothing short of awesome. I heard that bracket is a huge loving PITA and the adjustable track bar isn't TOO terrible. I was looking at the 2.5 kit a steering stabilizer and the adj. track bar.
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Apr 10, 2009 11:20
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Apparently the RE 2" BB was a bad decision. The RC lift seems great, especially now that they've upgraded the shocks that come with it. Thanks for the input. That'll be my second purchase... after the ragtop, lol. edit - While I'm at it. http://www.quadratec.com/products/111XX_73X_A_PG.htm The ragtop I'm getting. Hardware, tinted windows, & it folds back convertible style. AMindsEscape fucked around with this message at 16:22 on Apr 10, 2009 |
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Apr 10, 2009 16:14
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Well gently caress. The AC unit seized and my serpentine belt snapped. Now I need help. I have a 99 Cherokee with the 4.0 and I've been searching for a week now and I can not find any info on bypassing the AC or an AC delete pulley. Help? Without spending $200+ on a new condenser + labor.
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Apr 11, 2009 06:25
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incredibull posted:If you're going to do a BB, you might as well go with the RC 2.5" kit, which includes progressive rate coils and shocks, and isn't much more expensive. The ride quality is excellent from all reviews. Not going to disagree with any of your comments, I just wanted to add that I have the RE 2" Budget lift on my '06 TJ and have been extremely satisfied. That said, I'm looking to go to a 4" lift, but someone who is just getting in to off-roading will be able to get in WAY over their head with just the budget lift. The RC kit may work a bit better, however.
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Apr 11, 2009 13:36
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Pretty.
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Apr 13, 2009 23:40
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323LX posted:Not going to disagree with any of your comments, I just wanted to add that I have the RE 2" Budget lift on my '06 TJ and have been extremely satisfied. That said, I'm looking to go to a 4" lift, but someone who is just getting in to off-roading will be able to get in WAY over their head with just the budget lift. The RC kit may work a bit better, however. This is pretty true, but by the time you purchase and install the average BB kit with shocks, you've paid most of the price and done all of the work that you would have needed to do to install this "real" kit from RC. I think this is why the RC kit is being so heavily recommended over BB kits, because the value is so much greater. I'm amazed that BBs haven't decreased in price at all since this kit showed up on the scene.
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Apr 14, 2009 05:10
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Boomerjinks posted:Pretty. Very! There is just something about those old Cherokees. Love those rims too.
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Apr 15, 2009 02:09
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A widetrack with fenders, amazing!
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Apr 15, 2009 02:40
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Valgarv posted:I bought a 92 YJ with an inline six, it drives like sex. I went and got the fluids topped up because the po had no idea when it was last done. One of the guys said that my valve cover was leaking oil. I went out and bought a Haynes manual and inside it says I can replace the cracks in the pre-cured gasket with RTV sealant after I take off the valve cover. My question is, is this a smart idea? Or should I get a new valve cover? Or new gasket? Or is that a judgement call once I get the cover off and take a look at how badly cracked the gasket is? Will grab some pics later tonight. Nah, you want to get a new valve cover gasket at NAPA for about six bucks (cork - you can spend more on a rubber one if you want.) Take off valve cover, scrape off old gasket. Put on new one, and _then_ put on RTV sealant. Also, you may want to use a shop vac to get rid of the nasty (solid) buildup that will be inside the valve cover; if you try to clean it out you with a rag you might accidentally push some back into the engine. If you go with the cork gasket make sure you re-tighten the valve cover after about 100 miles; it will expand a bit as it absorbs some oil. Make sure you use a socket with an extension and a universal joint to get those tough bastards in the back. Now is probably a good time to replace the PCV valve too, if equipped.
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Apr 15, 2009 02:58
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Boomerjinks posted:Pretty. I stared at that thing for a good long time... and I realized that it is loving awesome.
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Apr 15, 2009 03:48
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AC Compressor removal and bypass Seized Compressor.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Purged and unbolted.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. Sexy new bracket and pulley.  Click here for the full 1024x768 image. All buttoned up and running again. Cold air is for jerks!  Click here for the full 768x1024 image. This now concludes our session of rookie Jeep repairs. Thanks to everyone who pointed me in the right direction for how to fix this. I apologize for my cluelessness, I'm still learning. And I know the engine bay is a mess. I've had a mess of coolant leaks that I still can't track down. Now who wants to teach me how to fix vacuum lines?
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Apr 16, 2009 02:42
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I tell you what, replacing an internal slave cyl on an AX15 is a major pain in the rear end. It's even more of a pain in the rear end when you've only got one floor jack and you're by yourself. I'm glad I'm on spring break though, I knocked it out in 2 days, and got to use the shop forklift to help raise the transmission up into the Jeep 
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Apr 16, 2009 05:55
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PROGRESS: I completely pulled the carpet out of my jeep today, when i get the money for Herculiner i can give it a nice couple coats.
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Apr 18, 2009 21:15
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Rhyno posted:Purged and unbolted. That is one awful coolant leak, wherever it is.
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Apr 18, 2009 21:53
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incredibull posted:That is one awful coolant leak, wherever it is. The upper radiator hose split open and sprayed everywhere. It was really bad. When I open the hood it literally hit me in the face. Also my crank pulley decided it wanted to be closer to the bumper today. I've been informed it's my harmonic balancer so it looks like I'll be replacing that and then I think I'm done. This is too many things breaking in too short of a time. I'm definitely selling the car.
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Apr 19, 2009 04:50
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It doesn't make sense to sell it after fixing all the things that go wrong with it...
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Apr 19, 2009 07:34
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jonathan posted:It doesn't make sense to sell it after fixing all the things that go wrong with it... Well I'll be honest man. I'm just not confident in my abilities as a mechanic to keep doing this. I can pretend I know what I'm doing but in the end it seems likely that the things I've fixed are causing more problems. I fixed my upper radiator hose. Next day I find out i left the dome light on and my car won't start. Ends up the alternator is dead. Replace that and then 3 days later my AC Compressor starts smoking. Then seizes and the new belt I put in snaps on me. I swapped that out for the bypass pulley and now the crank is protruding. Seriously every time I fix something I break something else. I'd rather see it go to a good home with an owner who's not a loving moron.
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Apr 19, 2009 09:45
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Rhyno posted:I fixed my upper radiator hose. Next day I find out i left the dome light on and my car won't start. Ends up the alternator is dead. Replace that and then 3 days later my AC Compressor starts smoking. Then seizes and the new belt I put in snaps on me. I swapped that out for the bypass pulley and now the crank is protruding It's likely that the coolant corrosion shown in your pics killed all of these things.
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Apr 19, 2009 18:38
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incredibull posted:It's likely that the coolant corrosion shown in your pics killed all of these things. While I don't doubt this it was just the timing of things that makes it feel more like my own doing. I was spraying down the engine to clean off the coolant every other day while I searched for the leak. 1. Left the light on (never done that before) and the alternator died. 2. Put in the new alternator, 3 days later the AC compressor starts smoking (think the clutch went). I assume I over tightened the belt. 3. Swap in the AC bypass pulley and now the damper pops loose. Again I figure I over tightened the belt.
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Apr 20, 2009 05:45
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cory ad portas posted:I'm trying to replace my rotors and pads, but my rotors are stuck completely on the truck and will not come off. Calipers and everything are off, I'm not doing anything wrong, it's just completely stuck. I've heated the outside of the rotor to expand the metal, no go. WD-40 didn't do the trick either. I've been beating it with a hammer for the last 3 hours and it isn't moving. Any other 98 or so Wrangler owners have this problem?
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Apr 20, 2009 18:04
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Ugh. I trashed the spider gears in my Dana 35C the other day... just MILES from the loving trail! At least I wasn't axle-deep in mud or rocks when it went. Anyway, the ring & pinion gears are fine, so I'm just going to order a set of new spider gears. My question is this... One of the smaller spider gears snapped in half and I found it on the bottom of the diff. When I was pulling out all the spider gears to inspect them, I found that each one had a shim/washer, except for one of the small ones. They use the sort of extruded/bent washers to fit with the curved surface of the carrier. Is it possible that it didn't originally have a shim on both the smaller gears? Or is it more likely that it disintegrated in all the carnage? All the metal shards I'm picking up out of the diff case look like they were from the gears. But yeah, I just need to know whether it's possible that a gear could have been installed with no shim, or if I should just assume that each gear gets one shim when I reinstall. Thanks in advance.
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Apr 20, 2009 21:22
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Why, why would someone manufacture a winch plate and send it out with bolts that do this after only one day in the rain/snow? \My soft top hardware bolts, along the top rim of the body tub, oxidized just as quickly. What the hell? Also, got more work accomplished on the dinojeep this weekend than I have in the last 16 months, and then the hydraulics for the clutch utterly fail. Any repair cost estimates from those of you who have gone through this?
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Apr 21, 2009 18:12
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