|
Simkin posted:And? I'd probably want to tart the bike up with some nice magenta graphics, just to get the full 80s To me it says "Toothpaste" more than 
|
#
?
Apr 10, 2009 01:10
|
|
effect.
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 04:16 |
|
|
This is not my beautiful SV...  But it is one that I moonlight on. Friend's bike, swapped the bars over for fun, will be taking it down to San Diego this weekend. It's got the usual mods, GSX-R front end, Penske, Yoshimura RS3, bars, and some other stuff that I'm forgetting, I'm sure. Lotta nice work done to it 
|
|
#
?
Apr 11, 2009 21:33
|
|
|
Anybody else get false neutrals particularly between 4th - 5th gear? The first time I thought I had just wimped out on the shift, second and third times, not so much. The oil had about 3,000 miles on it when this happened, I just changed it so we'll see if that helps.
|
|
#
?
Apr 13, 2009 22:19
|
|
|
Suzuki gearboxes are really slick and I've never had any problems with false neutrals, except when going from 1st to 2nd without enough of a push. The most jarring thing for me when I tried different bikes after learning to ride on my SV was how horrid their gearboxes were in comparison, especially BMW's.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 11:51
|
|
|
I just bought an 03 about 3 weeks ago. One of the problems with the bike was a very soft rear brake pedal. It takes about 30 degrees of movement to get firm. I've bled the rear and I get no improvement. The movement does produce pressure (progressively as far as I can tell) but it takes so much movement to hold the bike on an incline, it's painful for any period of time. I know it's not air in the system, but I'm not sure what to replace. My guess would be master cylinder, but there's no leaking so I'm not really certain. Anybody want to hazard a guess or give up some info?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 19:09
|
|
|
james posted:I just bought an 03 about 3 weeks ago. One of the problems with the bike was a very soft rear brake pedal. It takes about 30 degrees of movement to get firm. I've bled the rear and I get no improvement. The movement does produce pressure (progressively as far as I can tell) but it takes so much movement to hold the bike on an incline, it's painful for any period of time. How's the condition of the pads and the rotors? Are you sure there's not air in it? Because usually when you've got that much movement in the pedal, there's air in the system. Did you bleed the banjo fittings?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 19:14
|
|
|
Pads and rotor are ok. I'd estimate pads are half consumed and rotor has no ridges or lip, but I didn't get out the calipers to measure. The caliper moves freely on the slide. I put some air into the system on accident (vigorously bleeding, didn't watch the fluid level as closely as I should) and the system acted differently with air. However, it acted as I expect an air-permeated system would act. After getting the idiot introduced air out of the system, it went back to the way it was before. I did not bleed the banjo bolts. Is that where you try depressing the brake lever slightly, crack the banjo bolt at the brake reservoir/master cylinder just enough so fluid begins leaking out, close the banjo and release the lever? james fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Apr 14, 2009 |
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 19:30
|
|
|
james posted:Pads and rotor are ok. I'd estimate pads are half consumed and rotor has no ridges or lip, but I didn't get out the calipers to measure. The caliper moves freely on the slide. I put some air into the system on accident (vigorously bleeding, didn't watch the fluid level as closely as I should) and the system acted differently with air. However, it acted as I expect an air-permeated system would act. After getting the idiot introduced air out of the system, it went back to the way it was before. That is correct. If there's air in the lines, you'll get a hiss and a sputter as it's forced out. What you're describing is not normal for an SV braking system. I'd say you've got 2 options here...air in the lines, or the pads are glazed. Bleed the banjo bolts and go from there. How many miles on the bike?
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 20:12
|
|
|
Z3n posted:That is correct. If there's air in the lines, you'll get a hiss and a sputter as it's forced out. Bike's got 17k on it. I don't think the pads are glazed. I'll try the banjo bolt bleeding bonanza. I'll have an answer tonight.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 20:25
|
|
|
james posted:Bike's got 17k on it. Make sure that you close the banjo bolts before the pedal bottoms or you let it go, otherwise it'll suck air back in on the return stroke of the MC. You probably already know that, but it's worth noting just in case. If it's fixed with the bleeding, that's good, otherwise come back and let us know and there's some other basic things you can try to get it braking again.
|
|
#
?
Apr 14, 2009 21:48
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Make sure that you close the banjo bolts before the pedal bottoms or you let it go, otherwise it'll suck air back in on the return stroke of the MC. You probably already know that, but it's worth noting just in case. If it's fixed with the bleeding, that's good, otherwise come back and let us know and there's some other basic things you can try to get it braking again. I did know that, but thanks for the tip. I appreciate common gotchas. Bled the banjos last night. I would say it's improved, but not 'fixed'. Fixed is in quotes because I've never had it in good working order, so I'm operating on how I think it should feel based on the other motorcycles I've ridden. Let me update a few things I said before. The pedal travel from rest to firm is 1.5"-2". When it does get firm it takes a significant amount of force to make the bike stay put on a hill. There's a large hill leaving my apartment and my other bike takes very little pedal effort to stay put, this one requires a lot of effort. The effort would not be such a big deal if the pedal didn't move so much, it puts my ankle at a bad angle to be applying the force.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 16:28
|
|
|
james posted:I did know that, but thanks for the tip. I appreciate common gotchas. There's 2 nuts on the rod of the master cylinder. You can adjust those to change when the MC starts to engage as well as the "at rest" position on the lever. You may just have to adjust those to get it to engage normally. Have you tried working with that adjustment yet? Also, I don't know how experienced you are with bleeding motorcycle braking systems, but it used to take me 2 tries to get all the air out of the system. I'd bleed it once, ride it around for a little bit, and then bleed it all again, and only after the second bleed would I really get good lever/pedal response and feel. Another trick that you can try is to pull the rear caliper off, and back bleed the system by forcing the pistons back into the caliper. Open the upper reservoir, force the pistons back in, and watch and see if you get any air bubbles coming through. Make sure you don't force brake fluid everywhere though  After all of this, you could just have glazed pads from the PO dragging the rear brake everywhere or something. If none of the bleeding tricks work, try cleaning the rotor and maybe sanding down the rear pads a bit to get rid of any potential glaze on there. If they're already glazed, there's no harm in abusing them a little 
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 19:19
|
|
|
Thanks for the suggestions.Z3n posted:There's 2 nuts on the rod of the master cylinder. You can adjust those to change when the MC starts to engage as well as the "at rest" position on the lever. You may just have to adjust those to get it to engage normally. Have you tried working with that adjustment yet? I adjusted the threaded rod and made the pedal rest position come up when I first got the bike. You say 'change when the MC starts to engage' are you calling the pedal adjustment two different things? Or is there a way to adjust the MC engagement beginning? Z3n posted:Also, I don't know how experienced you are with bleeding motorcycle braking systems, but it used to take me 2 tries to get all the air out of the system. I'd bleed it once, ride it around for a little bit, and then bleed it all again, and only after the second bleed would I really get good lever/pedal response and feel. I've bled the brakes on five different bikes, but this is the first that I've had this problem. If the pedal/lever ever got spongy I was able to fix it on the first bleed, or with a new set of pads. None of them ever started this spongy though. However, I have introduced air into the system a couple times (when I wasn't paying enough attention and when I had to replace the reservoir a couple times) and none of those times did I have a problem. Z3n posted:Another trick that you can try is to pull the rear caliper off, and back bleed the system by forcing the pistons back into the caliper. Open the upper reservoir, force the pistons back in, and watch and see if you get any air bubbles coming through. Make sure you don't force brake fluid everywhere though I think I'll try this tonight. A website I read suggested pushing fluid through the system via the bleed nipple and a syringe. I might try that too. Z3n posted:After all of this, you could just have glazed pads from the PO dragging the rear brake everywhere or something. If none of the bleeding tricks work, try cleaning the rotor and maybe sanding down the rear pads a bit to get rid of any potential glaze on there. If they're already glazed, there's no harm in abusing them a little I'll pull them off and look again. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 20:26
|
|
|
james posted:Thanks for the suggestions. Sometimes you can adjust them in such a fashion that they don't really engage the MC cleanly...I did a very poor job of wording that. quote:I've bled the brakes on five different bikes, but this is the first that I've had this problem. If the pedal/lever ever got spongy I was able to fix it on the first bleed, or with a new set of pads. None of them ever started this spongy though. However, I have introduced air into the system a couple times (when I wasn't paying enough attention and when I had to replace the reservoir a couple times) and none of those times did I have a problem. Alrighty, shouldn't be a problem with your technique then. quote:I think I'll try this tonight. A website I read suggested pushing fluid through the system via the bleed nipple and a syringe. I might try that too. Both can work. The pistons back in trick is easier, but the syringe is the same concept. quote:I'll pull them off and look again. I don't know if you'll be able to really visibly see any glazing, but it's worth a shot. quote:Thanks. np.
|
|
#
?
Apr 15, 2009 22:18
|
|
|
Got home and let the bike cool for a bit. Bled the banjos while it was warm. Pulled caliper and pads. The pads had shims on them, which I've never seen on a motorcycle before. One Of the shims was severely bent, making it tent shaped. In between the shim and pads was a white cloth-like piece, made of something I couldn't id. I pulled the pads off the caliper and compressed the piston. I was working by myself so I couldn't watch the reservoir as I did it, so I don't know if any bubbles came out. I took the pads and sanded them a couple directions. Enough to change the surface but not much more. I lubed the slide pins and pad retaining pin on reassembly. I left the shims and fiber-whatever out because I don't care if it squeaks. After reassembly the pedal travel has been reduced to approx. 1". I find this just within acceptable. The pedal force is less than before, but still a bit high. However, the front lever also requires a bit more force than I expect. I think the shims + cloth whatever are really the culprit here. Even though the cloth was relatively flat, I'm sure it had some squish in it a the pressures the caliper sees. I'd bet if I put those back in I'd go right back the unacceptable feeling I had before. I consider the matter resolved for now, but I'll be keeping an eye on it. To be fair, this is the first bike I've ever had with slide-pin style calipers. All the other bikes I've worked on have had opposed pistons. I might just be expecting too much of this. But, my friends ex500 behaves in line with what I expect so I don't know. Anyway, that's the resolution for now, thanks for help Z3n.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2009 17:16
|
|
|
Be careful with it for a bit, you may find that the pads will bed again soon and give you a lot more power from the rear brake. It doesn't hurt to get up to speed and drag the rear brake a little to get it to bed fast for 5 seconds or so, and then let off of it to let it cool, and then do it again. After a couple of times of that I usually find that the pads are pretty much bedded. Glad you got it to acceptable. It should be better than that, but who the hell knows what was done to it if you're finding cloth in the drat thing. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2009 18:53
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Be careful with it for a bit, you may find that the pads will bed again soon and give you a lot more power from the rear brake. It doesn't hurt to get up to speed and drag the rear brake a little to get it to bed fast for 5 seconds or so, and then let off of it to let it cool, and then do it again. After a couple of times of that I usually find that the pads are pretty much bedded. It wasn't cloth exactly. It was a weave of material. I've explained it poorly. If I remember I'll get a picture tonight and you can scratch you head with me. Forgot to mention, I did a mild bedding in of the rear brake in the parking lot. My impression/measurement is post bed-in.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2009 19:45
|
|
|
james posted:It wasn't cloth exactly. It was a weave of material. I've explained it poorly. If I remember I'll get a picture tonight and you can scratch you head with me. Huh...I wonder if it's some sort of weird thermal ablative stuff or something. I've never had a problem with my brakes squeeking, even when I pulled the shims out. Even still, it should be braking better than that. I may end up with a spare SV rear brake assembly if you're still not happy with it in a week or 2.
|
|
#
?
Apr 16, 2009 21:56
|
|
|
When I bought my bike, the PO threw in a zx10 rear shock. I'm sure its much firmer, and I would like the bike to have sportier suspension. I've been contemplating putting the shock on, but I am worried about changing the handling for the worse, on account of the cushy forks. On other forums, svrider mostly, some people say it will be bad and some people say it makes the bike better. Basically, I have a zx10 rear shock, but I am hesistant to put it on because of the unmodified front suspension. Should I? also, I only weigh 160lbs, and my gf weighs roughly 120lbs. She rarely rides with me. preemptive thanks!
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2009 21:28
|
|
|
TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:When I bought my bike, the PO threw in a zx10 rear shock. I'm sure its much firmer, and I would like the bike to have sportier suspension. I've been contemplating putting the shock on, but I am worried about changing the handling for the worse, on account of the cushy forks. On other forums, svrider mostly, some people say it will be bad and some people say it makes the bike better. It's 50/50, nothing to do but try it. Swap it over and see if you like it. Some people dig the changes, some don't.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2009 22:52
|
|
|
If you decide you don't want that shock and it's for an 06-07, I might be willing to take it off your hands.
|
|
#
?
Apr 17, 2009 23:00
|
|
|
I guess I'll give it a shot, hopefully I like it as much as the r6 throttle tube. and waptang, I'll keep your offer in mind. I'll have to look at what year the shock is. He just gave me the part, so it really could be anything. It'll be a week or two before I go back to my folk's house to check it out.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2009 00:00
|
|
|
TEASE MY NECKBEARD posted:Basically, I have a zx10 rear shock, but I am hesistant to put it on because of the unmodified front suspension. Should I?
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2009 17:58
|
|
|
I actually have some springs that were in the g/f's bike when she crashed. The forks are bent, but the springs should be fine. If you want them I'll send them to you for shipping + 20$ or something.
|
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2009 18:02
|
|
|
edit- I am dumb. Thanks for the offer Z3n! After I install it, I'll have to see how it feels.
TEASE MY NECKBEARD fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Apr 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Apr 18, 2009 19:37
|
|
|
Two weeks and still waiting for my Tires, Chain, and sprockets 
|
|
#
?
Apr 19, 2009 22:07
|
|
|
Z3n posted:Huh...I wonder if it's some sort of weird thermal ablative stuff or something. First of all, thanks for the offer. I think I might try a more agressive pad before I swap out any components. Something with more initial bite. Since The squishiness is gone, it seems like that might be a good start. Secondly, I tried to take pictures of the parts, but my phone didn't have talent to get focused up close pictures. I might try it with my digital camera if you're interested. However, I took a look and they are listed as part of the rear brake fiche. They are called insulators. I don't know what they are for, the only reference I could find suggested they would help even out brake pad wear. Your guess is as good as mine. If I can't find what I need, or get a solution I want, I may post here again about the assembly. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2009 18:45
|
|
|
james posted:If I can't find what I need, or get a solution I want, I may post here again about the assembly. Cool, just let me know.
|
|
#
?
Apr 21, 2009 19:36
|
|
|
Does anyone have rough suggestions for what the jets should be on a 1st gen SV, with a full exhaust system and modified airbox? My friend's bike has a pretty obnoxious flatspot (it couples well with the obnoxiously loud exhaust  ), and as far as we're aware, the jetting wasn't changed from stock when a full Hindle exhaust was put on. He was thinking of getting a shop to do the jetting, but that just sounds like a big waste of cash, especially since none of the shops around here have a dyno, they just test and tune on any long stretch of road. 
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2009 02:49
|
|
|
Simkin posted:Does anyone have rough suggestions for what the jets should be on a 1st gen SV, with a full exhaust system and modified airbox? My friend's bike has a pretty obnoxious flatspot (it couples well with the obnoxiously loud exhaust from http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_rejet.html quote:Pilots: 17.5
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2009 17:19
|
|
|
Awesome, thanks for that. Hopefully he can order up some 145-152.5 mains and try the rejetting sometime this week.
|
|
#
?
Apr 25, 2009 17:54
|
|
|
I'm getting some chattering noise coming from the front end under full throttle--almost like a buzz if the rpm's are high enough. I figure it's something vibrating against something else but I wonder if it's common and/or places to look? It seems to be only under load though--what exactly does pinging sound like? (crosses fingers)
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2009 00:20
|
|
|
echomadman posted:from http://www.geocities.com/catpoopman/sv650_rejet.html catpoopman posted:So what should I tell you about myself, seeing you were so curious... Well lets see, I am married, quit smoking over a year ago, gained 35 pounds since quitting smoking, love mexican & tex mex food, rarely drink, am a speed freak (my car record is 147mph, and my bike record is only 130 (need to borrow a faster bike)), rarely watch television, work at a boring job that pays me well, cursed with a bad disk in my back, think The Big Lebowski was comedic genious, enjoy sci-fi, love cats, hate woodchucks and groundhogs (32 confirmed kills and counting), speak my mind too freelly, believe people will let you down if you give them a chance, believe if you agree to do something then you do it, born in California, love asparagus, hate broccoli, thrive on steak and potatoes, listen to alternative rock, drive a toyota truck everyday to work, hate to mow the lawn, dislike cold weather, rain, snow and sleet, grow a garden every year, play golf, love motorcycles, dislike police, believe gun control is wrong, believe the Red Sox will someday win the world series, think politicians are all full of crap, think my wife is beautiful, think farts are funny, drink root beer and donate to charity. And that's about all I can trhink of. The guy that wrote that website is loving hilarious.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2009 01:45
|
|
|
Huh, I think farts are funny too.
|
|
#
?
Apr 29, 2009 04:17
|
|
|
What kind of premiums are you guys paying for your bikes? I plan to get into the market sometime soon for an 05-08 SV650 and I was checking out the rate I'd be paying for full coverage with progressive (who I use for my current bike) and they quoted me about 1500 for the year, or about 130/Mo. does that sound about right for a newer SV and full coverage? I'll shop around of course but it would be nice to know a good ballpark figure of what its going for normally. Thanks!
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2009 22:14
|
|
|
I'm paying 400 a year for full coverage on an 00 SV with a bunch of mods. G/f was paying 260 a year for an 02. Both through state farm. You're getting reamed there, that's a new bike every 3 years. Find another company.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2009 22:16
|
|
|
I'm in central Indiana and paying about $230/yr for full coverage with Progressive on an '03 naked. Z3n is right, you're getting reamed. e: Where are you located? That and your age are probably the two biggest factors.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2009 22:20
|
|
|
24, going on 25 in July. Los Angeles, CA. I havent really shopped around yet, but it did seem a little high to me, but my only other experience with a bike is my current 92 GS500. I pay around 200/YR for liability/uninsured (ditched collision and comprehensive since its a beater), but even then, 1500 sounded like a rip. Good to know its so cheap though! I dont have much to compare with with my IRL friends who have bikes because they're either dipshits who bought a 1000CC bike and dont have a license or insurance, or they have a driving record a mile long. 
Minty Swagger fucked around with this message at 00:28 on May 20, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2009 22:56
|
|
|
I am paying like $260 a month for minimum but I am under 25 too. for full coverage I can't find anything under $1600.
|
|
#
?
May 19, 2009 23:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 10, 2024 04:16 |
|
|
Welp Click here for the full 502x632 image. My quest continues I guess. Do my coverage choices look weird or something? 1000 dollar deductible even! I pay jack poo poo for car and my current cycle insurance, I guess I'll keep looking! EDIT: haha wow, I pulled an AIS quote which pulls from a bunch of companies and the very last one was a quote from a company called Arrowhead QBE Motorcycle. They wanted 775 a month for the lowest coverage you can get. sure bro, I'll pay 9K a year for a 6K brand new bike  2nd EDIT: going to have to go with these guys by name alone: http://www.pirateinsurance.com/ Minty Swagger fucked around with this message at 23:38 on May 19, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 19, 2009 23:15
|
|