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Boomerjinks posted:Why, why would someone manufacture a winch plate and send it out with bolts that do this after only one day in the rain/snow? Forward or back there should be 2 bolts per side on the top. Unless you just didn't want to gently caress with the torx. I'd say the first and third holes. Unless I'm mistaken.
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Apr 21, 2009 19:35
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Forward or back there should be 2 bolts per side on the top. Unless you just didn't want to gently caress with the torx. Ha, that's just temporary right now. I can use the torx, but then the winch sits like 4 inches off the front of the bumper. Ugly. I'll work some magic and get all four in there before the weekend. This mounting was just for a sci-fi convention over the weekend. How about those stupid loving rusty bolts, though? What should I look for that won't instantly rust, stainless?
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Apr 21, 2009 20:15
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Boomerjinks posted:Ha, that's just temporary right now. I can use the torx, but then the winch sits like 4 inches off the front of the bumper. Ugly. I'll work some magic and get all four in there before the weekend. This mounting was just for a sci-fi convention over the weekend. On my old YJ I just sprayed flat black rustoleum everywhere. EVERYWHERE.
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Apr 21, 2009 20:17
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:On my old YJ I just sprayed flat black rustoleum everywhere. Fair 'nough.
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Apr 21, 2009 20:19
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Boomerjinks posted:Ha, that's just temporary right now. I can use the torx, but then the winch sits like 4 inches off the front of the bumper. Ugly. I'll work some magic and get all four in there before the weekend. This mounting was just for a sci-fi convention over the weekend. Stainless may be ok, but good luck finding grade 8 stainless hardware for winch bolts. You can hunt down grade 8 cadinum plated bolts, but it will be special order. mcmaster.com should have them, if not they can special order it or you can get something that is black coated or armor coat. I'm redoing the frame on my H1 in a few weeks and I'm replacing with all the bolts I'm touching with new bolts, I'm either special ordering Cadinum plated, or I'll get normal US made bolts and take them to an electro plater and get them to custom plate them. If it's juts for cosmetic looks, I find VHT High temperature chassis and roll bar paint in satin black to be pretty good stuff.
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Apr 21, 2009 20:20
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I'm just drat stoked that my brother got me some new mirrors for the LJ to run with my doors off. They are the Rugged Ridge ones and they are great. Easy install too. The weather is nice and the top is down. I've had my doors off all week now. Oconeeoffroad.com has some great deals if you are shopping and they have free shipping right now. I got my stuff in 2 days. On that note, is there any drawback to running the top up and no doors? Am I going to wear it out or anything when I do have it up?
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Apr 21, 2009 20:48
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Are reciever hitches on the XJ in a good spot or do they cause major clearence issues ? I'm going to have one built into a custom rear bumper, but in the meantime I think I will just get a hitch and bolt it on in the factory location. As long as I dont have the actuall ball hitch in at the time, getting hung up wont be a huge issue right ?
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Apr 22, 2009 00:43
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jonathan posted:Are reciever hitches on the XJ in a good spot or do they cause major clearence issues ? I'm going to have one built into a custom rear bumper, but in the meantime I think I will just get a hitch and bolt it on in the factory location. As long as I dont have the actuall ball hitch in at the time, getting hung up wont be a huge issue right ? I run a factory hitch on my xj, Its fairly tight to the bumper. Some aftermarket hitches hang lower and can present issues so just be careful in the one ya choose. *I chose a factory hitch as they are 22$ at the local pick and pull and provide decent clearance*
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Apr 22, 2009 06:28
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Veeb0rg posted:I run a factory hitch on my xj, Its fairly tight to the bumper. Some aftermarket hitches hang lower and can present issues so just be careful in the one ya choose. Are they a 2" reciever ? How strong would they be for something like a bike rack with a few 40lb downhill bikes on it ?
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Apr 22, 2009 22:28
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I saw the best goddamn idea for LED taillights on a wrangler/CJ. EVER. This person used I think 1.75" of 5" exhaust tubing and then cut a end cap for one end and welded that into a cup. He then took the flush mount taillight and mounted it in the cup, then mounted the cup to the tub. This way you can keep the factory holes on the tub, and in cases like me don't have to worry about relocating/loving with the evap canister mounted in the rear passenger corner when you would cut the hole for the lights. This would be a low cost solution to other surface mounted lights like those goddamn 200 dollar ORO dot lite things. I was thinking of going with those huge goddamn bus taillights like I had on my wrangler, but wasn't really keen on drilling those holes. I suppose I could always look into making a cup for those but they really are loving HUGE. who knows.
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Apr 22, 2009 22:45
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jonathan posted:Are they a 2" reciever ? How strong would they be for something like a bike rack with a few 40lb downhill bikes on it ? They are a class 3 hitch with a 2" reciever. They have a 350/3500 tw/lw rating, so you should be fine. 
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Apr 23, 2009 05:27
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benzero posted:On that note, is there any drawback to running the top up and no doors? Am I going to wear it out or anything when I do have it up? No, the top is just fine without doors or windows. I'd also suggest pulling the door surrounds when you have the doors off. They have the two handle screws at the top that bolt into the roll bar, then they just pull up and fold in half. They always bug me when the soft top is on with no doors, but it's not necessary. It makes the door area a little larger and open without the surrounds on, making it easier to jump in and not smack your head.
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Apr 23, 2009 05:38
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When I first started running my Jeep with the top on and doors/windows off, the top would drum horribly. After a few weeks it just stretched out a little bit and now it puffs up a little but doesn't drum or make noise. They sell top-support bar things that go from the roll-cage to the windshield frame to keep the tops from drumming, but then it looks stupid when you take the top off, heh. Just jumping in on the mega-thread - I've got a 93 YJ Sahara with a 4.5" lift, 33"s, and not much else. Putting together parts for a SS-SYE, then possibly a SOA to a pair of D44's I have in the backyard. Used to drive a Twin Turbo Mustang...but the Jeep bug bit me so hard I've only put like 500 miles on the mustang in the last year :-D
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Apr 23, 2009 09:58
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Have you guys seen this jeep project? Have you guys seen this mother loving goddamn awesome Wrangler TJ project right here?           Click here for the full 1024x683 image.
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Apr 23, 2009 20:53
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Boomerjinks posted:Have you guys seen this jeep project? It still has coils.  Seriously though, that's pretty cool. I'm really digging the olive drab canvas they used for the top/door skins in contrast to the military green paint. Is there a write-up link to this? I'm interested to hear some of the ideas during the design process.
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Apr 23, 2009 21:28
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Its nice, I thought it was a J8 at first, but all the guys turning normal vehicles into "military" style vehicles tend to go a bit overkill on the army markings. [ie. no step everywhere, etc]. The CUCV/Humvee/Mutt/M35 guys on the trails will think its cute  I'm assuming the rear canvas cargo cover is from a MUTT?
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Apr 23, 2009 22:16
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Philip J Fry posted:Is there a write-up link to this? I'm interested to hear some of the ideas during the design process. Bonk http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=566265
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Apr 23, 2009 22:41
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BigKOfJustice posted:Its nice, I thought it was a J8 at first, but all the guys turning normal vehicles into "military" style vehicles tend to go a bit overkill on the army markings. [ie. no step everywhere, etc].
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Apr 23, 2009 23:19
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That is pretty awesome but I don't agree with the top he chose. A military TJ is never going to look authentic enough any way, so why not just use a stock sand-colored top or paint the stock top with canvas paint? Those windows are awful and it looks like the top is a huge pain to use. drat though, I sort of wish I bought a Jeep with a ruined paint job, because OD is sweet. OD YJs look the best though. quote:It still has coils. The tires are too wide.
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Apr 24, 2009 00:42
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incredibull posted:That is pretty awesome but I don't agree with the top he chose. A military TJ is never going to look authentic enough any way, so why not just use a stock sand-colored top or paint the stock top with canvas paint? Those windows are awful and it looks like the top is a huge pain to use. There's no .50.
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Apr 24, 2009 01:33
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incredibull posted:The tires are too wide. Even MT/KM 12.50's just barely rub on leafs at full turn; also depends on rim backspacing. But yeah he needs some tall skinnies on there. Hard cornering isn't something he should be doing too much of anyway since he ditched the swaybar. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 03:10 on Apr 24, 2009 |
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Apr 24, 2009 03:07
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InitialDave posted:Does the US not paint the rear diff cover? A lot of UK military stuff (e.g. Landies) have a white diff with a convoy light aimed at it for night manoeuvres - all other vehicle lighting is switched off, and you just follow the dimly-lit diff housing of the truck in front. They usually use a low intensity blackout light which looks like the below pictures. It just emits a small sliver of light directly down and in front of the vehicle, some have IR filters for night vision goggle use. Differentials on mutts/older jeeps are painted carc green/black and on the hmmwv it's the same deal depending on who paints it. From the factory it has a carc black diff cover with exposed metal for the rest of the differential.   Click here for the full 600x800 image.
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Apr 24, 2009 04:56
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So I'm pretty sure my '91 XJ is totalled, would anyone happen to want to buy it for parts/off road rig? The rear pass. frame rail is pushed in about an inch, but other than that, everything else is fine. I'd be a great candidate for a tube frame/4link suspension, it's got a '98 4.0 (160k), an AX15 trans with a brand new throwout/slave cyl, almost brand new clutch, and a D30 (non disco) and D44 axles. It's also got a 3" rusty's full leaf lift kit and Rubicon Express superflex lower control arms. I think I might just buy a new car/truck with the claim money, but 99% of the jeep is still fine, and excellently set up for off-roading, which I do very rarely these days. I'm in western NC if you're interested.
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Apr 24, 2009 05:26
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Thought I'd share this with you guys first, because you're all so awesome. Completed. April 24, 2009.
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Apr 24, 2009 08:00
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That is beautiful. I would daily drive it in a heartbeat.
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Apr 24, 2009 23:56
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I have stupid questios. 1 The hood release cable broke, will I ever see my engine again? 2 Has anyone ever retrofitted rear seat shoulder belts to an older (88) is it easy and where do you get the parts?
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Apr 25, 2009 02:39
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yaffle posted:I have stupid questios. What you need to do is reach up under the jeep in between the radiator and engine, and grab the metal rod that actually unlocks the hood and jerk it to either side (forget which). It helps to have someone pushing down on the hood slightly to reduce pressure on the latches. If you still have the fire blanket under the hood, it gets a bit more difficult, but you should be able to pull it down and get to the rod.
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Apr 25, 2009 02:50
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yaffle posted:I have stupid questios. For question 2, try here: http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/archive/index.php/t-314413.html I'm going to do the same this week. I just picked up an 87 Cherokee, and that'll be one of my first projects. The other will be to fixed the jacked up cooling system and vacuum leaks. Anyone ever tried the "open cooling" switch? The pressurized bottle split, and I'd rather not depend on that in the future. http://www.madxj.com/MADXJ/technical/technicalfiles/JTopenSystemSwitch/OpenSystemSwitch.htm
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Apr 25, 2009 02:52
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canned lettuce posted:
I did that on my 89 XJ, I had to buy a new 91+ radiator, a new heater valve, some random hoses, and a coolant overflow bottle. I just bought a generic autozone one, it worked great!
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Apr 25, 2009 06:17
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I thought I remembered the Jurassic Park YJ belonging to a goon. Nice! Anyway speaking of things that (should) have coils -- some pioneering gentleman on Pirate4x4 has put leaf springs on a JK. 
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Apr 25, 2009 07:00
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gently caress yeah! That's what I'm talking about! Did he do anything about the useless 3.8 V6 under the hood?
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Apr 25, 2009 20:55
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That I don't know. I can't find the original thread anymore. Either way it's pretty awesome, and so far the only JK I've really liked the looks of.
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Apr 25, 2009 23:08
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Jack_Handey posted:gently caress yeah! That's what I'm talking about! Did he do anything about the useless 3.8 V6 under the hood? It's a chopped GMC 3500HD frame with panels/hood/clip/engine from a JK. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=720472
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Apr 26, 2009 00:55
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I posted a writeup here: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3125051 of my HID conversion on my XJ. Kinda funny how bright it is right now. I won't be driving at night until I get some different housings.
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Apr 26, 2009 01:05
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Just finished a day of frustration working on the jeep. Swapped out the harmonic balancer and she's once again running very quietly. I'm sticking with it guys, I decided that it would indeed be stupid to sell it after putting all this time in and learning how to fix these things.
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Apr 26, 2009 02:21
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Rhyno posted:Just finished a day of frustration working on the jeep. Swapped out the harmonic balancer and she's once again running very quietly. Good on you. Make everything a learning experience.
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Apr 26, 2009 08:35
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Even though you shitheads ignored my question about spider gears on the last page, I was able to replace them with no problems. Maybe that's why nobody answered. I thought it was going to be a big ordeal. I was about 2 miles from the trailhead last Saturday, and my axle popped (POPPED LOUD), and I thought I was hosed. $120 later, I had it towed home and it was just the spider gears. (this story would be 93% cooler if I was on a trail when it happened) All my wheeling buddies told me I couldn't replace them and I should take it to a shop to have it done professionally. Welp, it took me 3 hours, and that includes smoking herb and drinking homebrew. Replacing spider gears is almost as easy as changing your oil once you know how to "walk" the gears in. Along the lines of Rhyno's post -- the Jeep runs MUCH better. I placed the driveshaft 180° from before (I had to replace the diff yoke's U-joint awhile ago and I think we got it backwards). Between that and the fact that my spiders were worn down, there is almost no driveline vibration anymore, and I have 4" total lift and no SYE. I'm driving an entirely new vehicle right now, and I loving love it. The thing that pisses me off is I couldn't even get a good answer over on Jeepforum. If anybody ever has any questions about replacing spider gears, just ask me. As long as your ring or pinion gears aren't damaged, it's a walk in the park. Edit: But now that I look back over that "JK" thread (I always knew JK stood for Just Kidding), it turns out that is a horrible piece of fuckery and gently caress that guy for ruining my dreams. Clamwacker fucked around with this message at 13:12 on Apr 26, 2009 |
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Apr 26, 2009 12:30
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 I don't need no drat carseat!  Daddy how do I get into your jeep?
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Apr 27, 2009 02:47
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So after putting the throttle to the floor briefly to pass a big rig, my check engine light came on, and stayed on. It's a 98 XJ, and I don't have an obd-II scanner. I'm wondering if maybe a knock sensor got set off ? The vehicle doesnt run any differently, although it could be in limp mode. Anyone have any ideas ? I'll probably just disconnect the battery to clear the code and then see if it comes back.
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Apr 27, 2009 02:48
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If you can't get to an Auto Zone or Advance or whatever, you could try this. I think it works for an XJ too.
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Apr 27, 2009 03:20
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