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bung posted:I'm in Santiago Chile right now and I've seen more Subarus here than I have in the States. Explain what you mean by surging? The power curve of the car is definitely not flat, so you will feel a surge. People also complain about some surging from the DBW system when you let off. On top of that, there are some cars that seem to not work well with the factory ECU settings and can be pretty jerky on accel from that.
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Apr 23, 2009 21:36
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Yay, I finally have all the parts I need to take care of the outstanding 'broken' issues on my car. O2 sensor for $115 from Amazon arrived earlier in the week and now I have my used ABS sensor off of ebay which should fix my abs going off at low speed issues. After looking at this part I can say for sure that the one in my car right now is bent. $35 shipped for the used sensor. So, instead of paying the dealer $350 to replace the o2 sensor and $250 to replace the abs sensor, I'm only paying about $150 in parts to do them both. I really wonder sometimes how people own cars and not do their own work. Though, I have to admit, if I would have paid the dealer to replace my rear wheel stud I wouldn't be dealing with the bent abs sensor in the first place.
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Apr 23, 2009 22:04
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bull3964 posted:I really wonder sometimes how people own cars and not do their own work. Though, I have to admit, if I would have paid the dealer to replace my rear wheel stud I wouldn't be dealing with the bent abs sensor in the first place. I eat the costs of things I'm afraid to do myself because I have no second vehicle. That's true of most people, I suspect.
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Apr 23, 2009 22:16
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si posted:I eat the costs of things I'm afraid to do myself because I have no second vehicle. That's true of most people, I suspect. Well, i'm sure everyone has that threshold, but some people are just scared to even contemplate how their car works. Like, i'll probably take my car to the dealer to get the timing belt done (even though these are some of the easier cars to a replacement on) since I know if it's done wrong, bad bad stuff happens and I would much rather the work have some sort of warranty. Things like changing out sensors, changing accessory belts, doing brakes, and changing oil are all so absurdly simple and the labor markup on them is so high that it just seems like a ton of money wasted. Brakes are the biggest thing. People are so scared of them because the are BRAKES. But changing pads usually just amounts to undoing one bolt, swinging the caliper out of the way, popping out the pads and popping the new ones in, pushing the piston in, and then re-assembling everything. So easy, yet people pay so much.
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Apr 23, 2009 22:24
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bull3964 posted:Things like changing out sensors, changing accessory belts, doing brakes, and changing oil are all so absurdly simple and the labor markup on them is so high that it just seems like a ton of money wasted. Brakes are the biggest thing. People are so scared of them because the are BRAKES. But changing pads usually just amounts to undoing one bolt, swinging the caliper out of the way, popping out the pads and popping the new ones in, pushing the piston in, and then re-assembling everything. So easy, yet people pay so much. Funny, I'm actually sitting on a set of brake lines, fluid, and pads. It's not because I think that it'll be difficult to do, but the problem being when I do it, I'd like someone nearby to at least give me a double check who knows WTF before I go try to drive it. I think that's my biggest hesitation with most jobs, that and getting stuck on a bolt somewhere half way through the process. Easy to find instructions on how to do it, hard to find "validation" methods to make sure you've done everything right afterwards.
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Apr 23, 2009 22:30
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bull3964 posted:I really wonder sometimes how people own cars and not do their own work. Though, I have to admit, if I would have paid the dealer to replace my rear wheel stud I wouldn't be dealing with the bent abs sensor in the first place. Other people have more money than time. If you worked 80 hours a week, would you want to spend what free time you have wrenching or driving?
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Apr 23, 2009 22:48
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nm posted:I live in an apartment in downtown Minneapolis. My "garage" is a spot in a parking garage. Well, if you're working 80 hours a week, you don't actually have free time anyways  Yeah, space can be a concern (I've been there, lived in an apt for 7 years), but the 'how' of my question was more along the lines of "how can people stand to pay." It just boggles my mind that I would be shelling out an extra $450 for someone else to do this work. That's a new TV, or a netbook, or a game console, or a weekend away somewhere. It would never quit gnawing at me about the other things that money could have been used for. Hell, I'll be able to put 4 new tires on my car at the end of this month for that amount of money.
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Apr 23, 2009 23:12
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bull3964 posted:Well, if you're working 80 hours a week, you don't actually have free time anyways Oh and I'd never pay a dealer's outragious rates out of warranty.
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Apr 23, 2009 23:29
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ChunksNensja posted:Try hitting lock 5 times. Wait for the lights to flash before each press. Three "locks" beeps the horn. I've been a GM owner all my life until now - with them it's one "lock" to get the horn beep. Is three the norm for Subaru?
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Apr 23, 2009 23:55
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LordOfThePants posted:Three "locks" beeps the horn. I've been a GM owner all my life until now - with them it's one "lock" to get the horn beep. Is three the norm for Subaru? On the back of my key fob it says to press lock 3 times for the car finder function.
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Apr 24, 2009 00:10
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What a goddamn moron http://jalopnik.com/5225023/garage-mechanic-ghetto+rigs-subaru-impreza-with-eaton-supercharger quote:When RS25 forum member "Spud" decided he wanted to supercharge his stock, non-turbo 2005 Subaru Impreza, an aftermarket kit was not in the cards. Instead he hit the internet and got the supercharger off a 3.8L Thunderbird Supercoupe and went to work in an, um, unconventional install. Since there's no supercharger kit for Spud's particular model, and certainly not one to adapt the big Eaton of the Supercoupe. So he got to work on a DIY solution.
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Apr 24, 2009 14:07
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I don't even know what to say to that.
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Apr 24, 2009 14:19
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Smell that? Mmmmm, cooking up some performance over here...
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Apr 24, 2009 15:22
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You have to give him credit. FI on an N/A subaru for less than 500 dollars. I'm having trouble understanding why everyone is making GBS threads on this build. The builder admits in the thread that it's ghettos rigged. Personally, I think it's fantastic. He's not done, it's going to be much cleaner when it's done.
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Apr 24, 2009 15:44
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dayman posted:You have to give him credit. FI on an N/A subaru for less than 500 dollars. I'm having trouble understanding why everyone is making GBS threads on this build. The builder admits in the thread that it's ghettos rigged. Personally, I think it's fantastic. He's not done, it's going to be much cleaner when it's done. No, this is an extremely ghetto rigged setup the the point of being unsafe. Those are some of the worst welds I think I have ever seen and half this poo poo isnt even welded its brazed. He could've made a home made casting setup, cast all the pipes and that would have been just fine but he didn't. He really went about this the worst way possible and does not seem qualified to make it. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 15:57 on Apr 24, 2009 |
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Apr 24, 2009 15:55
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Doesn't matter much, says he has no form of engine management, so it'll blow up soon enough.
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Apr 24, 2009 16:00
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RealKyleH posted:No, this is an extremely ghetto rigged setup the the point of being unsafe. Those are some of the worst welds I think I have ever seen and half this poo poo isnt even welded its brazed. He could've made a home made casting setup, cast all the pipes and that would have been just fine but he didn't. He really went about this the worst way possible and does not seem qualified to make it. Oh c'mon. How is this unsafe? It's not gonna explode and kill someone. At worst it'll blow his head gasket. Everyone has to learn somehow. It's his car, he can do what he wants.
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Apr 24, 2009 16:13
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Having used that brazing rod before, it WILL come un-done the instant it hits 728 degrees F (it's actually a solder). Unlikely in a supercharger, I guess, but not the best choice.
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Apr 24, 2009 16:26
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dayman posted:Oh c'mon. How is this unsafe? It's not gonna explode and kill someone. At worst it'll blow his head gasket. If belt alignment sucks, while revving hard it shreds and goes flying. Even if it doesn't suck this is a possibility but what are the chances that he got it right on? I highly doubt he has the ability or desire to make accurate measurements. EDIT: If you like this fine piece of craftsmanship may I also suggest that EF hatch with the turbo sticking out of the front of the hood. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 16:58 on Apr 24, 2009 |
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Apr 24, 2009 16:46
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si posted:Explain what you mean by surging? Surging may not have been the best word to describe it. It feels like slipping, of either the tires or clutch. So it's like the power going to the road is inconsistent.
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Apr 24, 2009 18:31
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what's wrong with stuff coming out of the hood? They did it all the time back in the day. There's another guy on RS25 who managed to fit his blower under the hood. , so it's not a necessity. The thing this guy managed to do was a budget build with a supercharger he bought for less than 200 dollars that also functioned as a learning experience. He's only running 4psi, which probably is a bit much for no EM, but it's not like he's going balls to the wall with 8psi right off the bat. I mean c'mon, is it because it's a late model car? Would it be more acceptable if he did it on a mid nineties car? I'm just trying to get an idea for why so many people think this build sucks, while I see a number of builds on AI that are less ambitious and equally ghetto rigged, that are not getting slammed.
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Apr 24, 2009 20:03
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My guess would be because he went and bought a fairly new $18,000 car and did a $500 ghetto-fab FI job on it. He could have bought a nearly new WRX for the $18,5 he spent there and had a better running car. It's one thing to salvage a $1500 DL wagon from the junkyard and do something like that to it. It just doesn't make any sense to "do it wrong" on a nice shiny new car.
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Apr 24, 2009 20:24
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Yeah, that is definitely a good point. A car this new probably deserves a bit better build quality. Hell the other guy on RS25 is doing it on a 9 year old car, and it's not even close to as ghetto rigged. Different strokes I guess.
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Apr 24, 2009 22:11
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Took a long drive in the Forester tonight out to my folks' place so I can use their garage to do an oil change and plugs tomorrow. I noticed a couple of things that I'm curious about: I fueled up since I was near empty and noticed it took quite a while for the needle on the gauge to go from "E" to "F". I'd estimate about 2 minutes until it was back to "F". Is this normal on a Subaru or is it an indicator of some problem? I noticed the drivers side section of the hood seems like it really shakes at highway (75mph+) speeds. It was enough that I actually pulled off at an offramp and checked to make sure the hood was closed and latched securely (it was). The passenger side of the hood feels nice and tight, but the drivers side is noticeably "springy" when I press down near the headlight. I'm baffled as to what this could be, because both sides of the hood look exactly the same to me. I'll take a closer look at it tomorrow, but I can't believe that's how it's supposed to be. Has anyone seen something like that before?
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Apr 25, 2009 02:03
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I'm having some headaches with my new (to me) 2006 STI. I took it in for an oil change a few weeks back because I'm exceptionally lazy, and a few days later after driving home I noticed that there was a plastic underbody piece hanging down from the front of the car. I don't know what you call it, but it runs along the fender of the car and up the wheel well. It had broken almost in half and was missing a ton of bolts not only on that side but on the other side as well. I took it back to Subaru and asked them what the gently caress happened and they told me it was unsecured like this when they did the oil change. Well, thanks for letting me know assholes. I've secured both sides and it shouldn't fall down anymore but it still pisses me off that part of it breaking off would have been completely avoidable if they had just told me that it wasn't secured. The most troubling news though is that my subframe is bent. The plastic underbody piece covering the oil pan and filter will not bolt straight because of it, and one of the bolts won't go in at all. The guy at Subaru said it was most likely just a cosmetic issue but he would have to take a better look at it to be sure. I'm worried now because the car pulls to the right a bit and now I'm thinking maybe it's not just a wheel alignment issue. Does anyone have any experience with this? I'm probably taking it back to subaru to have them do the alignment and hopefully they will check it out to make sure the subframe (or any other damage that might have been done) isn't causing any problems. If anyone has any advice in the meantime though I would appreciate it. I know some people have replaced their subframes with aftermarket offerings, is this something that I should consider at all if I have to replace the subframe? AngryGuy fucked around with this message at 12:19 on Apr 25, 2009 |
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Apr 25, 2009 04:35
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Chunderbuss posted:
Sorry, waffleimages isn't working for me it would seem (pics are linked). I'm referring to a set of Sti braces, of which my car is missing the rear strut brace. Just wondering if anyone had any opinion on this? Is it worthwhile purchasing a replica or will this be drastically worse than the real sti item? Thanks Chunderbuss fucked around with this message at 10:51 on Apr 26, 2009 |
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Apr 26, 2009 10:46
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you're adding a little stick of aluminum across one of the stiffest parts of the chassis. It doesn't do anything at all, whether you spend $20 on an e-bay part or $400 for the spec c yamaha damper thingies.
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Apr 26, 2009 11:31
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jamal posted:you're adding a little stick of aluminum across one of the stiffest parts of the chassis. It doesn't do anything at all, whether you spend $20 on an e-bay part or $400 for the spec c yamaha damper thingies. The opinion on Nasioc seems to be split but leaning towards it having a positive effect, especially in wagons, have you got a lay person physics reason why it doesn't? Cheers
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Apr 27, 2009 02:52
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in a wagon, yes I can see it providing some benefit. In a sedan, well, all you have to do is open the trunk and take a look at all the steel that goes across the chassis right there.
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Apr 27, 2009 03:18
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jamal posted:in a wagon, yes I can see it providing some benefit. Ok, so for my wagon, will there be much difference between the Ultrex and Sti items?
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Apr 27, 2009 03:43
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I wouldn't expect there to be. In other news, here's a very nice exhaust manifold that I don't think I've posted:    The car made 430whp on 91 octane. When it gets some fuel system upgrades we'll do a race gas map. We also installed and tuned a cosworth/pectel ecu for an 08 sti recently. Holding down the cruise control button turns on anti-lag. jamal fucked around with this message at 04:46 on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Apr 27, 2009 04:02
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jamal posted:Holding down the cruise control button turns on anti-lag. I guess you could install a bypass valve and open that electronically and suck in air that way, though.
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Apr 27, 2009 08:36
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The latest subaru wrc system uses a device called a "rocket" which is attached to the up-pipe and acts as an additional combustion chamber to keep the turbo spooled. The als uses feedback from the EGT, MAP sensor, and a turbo speed sensor. So, no, the pectel isn't quite like that. But since the cars are DBW, it can adjust throttle position, injector duty cycle, cam timing, and ignition timing to keep the turbo spooled. This way the throttle is open and the motor turns faster to let more air through, but most of the combustion takes place on the way out of the exhaust ports and in the manifolds. And it sounds awesome. It bumps the idle up to about 2000 and makes 3psi. Obviously EGTs go through the roof with it on so we've recommended he not use it too frequently with his shiny $1800 turbo. We've only turned it on momentarily. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:02 on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Apr 27, 2009 08:50
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I need some massive middle fingers to Subaru after yesterday. We decided to tackle brakes for my LGT by way of putting in stainless lines, Carbotech Bobcats, and new fluid. The flare nuts that couple the hard lines to the flexible hoses are absolutely ridiculous. One of mine is just completely trashed, though we were able to get it tightened down enough with vice grips afterwords. Every single one of those stupid things was about impossible to get loose. Speaking with Ron from RAW1, he said that this is actually about normal, and that they're a pain on every car he's done. So that said, my Legacy now has nice brakes, but jesus gently caress Subaru, do something about those hard line flare nuts.
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Apr 27, 2009 16:53
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by using a quality flare wrench I haven't really ever had a problem.
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Apr 27, 2009 17:34
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jamal posted:by using a quality flare wrench I haven't really ever had a problem. I picked up some Craftsman metric flare wrenches for $40 (the single 10mm was $20.34,  ). What would be a better quality one to use? It really seemed like the flare nut was just far too soft a material for the amount of torque required to break it (probably well over 200ft/lb to break it loose).
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Apr 27, 2009 17:48
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si posted:I picked up some Craftsman metric flare wrenches for $40 (the single 10mm was $20.34, I've had the same problem. Even nice flare wrenches stripped it, I had to get those vice-grip things to be able to get it off without mauling the nut.
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Apr 29, 2009 06:55
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Chunderbuss posted:Ok, so for my wagon, will there be much difference between the Ultrex and Sti items? I just put one on my wagon and I could feel a difference in the car. The rear end feels much more solid and predictable. I just got a cheap sti knockoff for 20 bucks on ebay for shits and giggles and was surprised in the quality. The Ultrex looks like the same bar but with a 60 extra dollars tacked on to the price. edit: I see the site is australian so take what I said price wise and throw it out the window. JudgeJoeBrown fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Apr 29, 2009 |
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Apr 29, 2009 09:38
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craftsman stuff has gone downhill lately, but should still work fine. I take it you had the problem on the rear? It's a pain in the rear end to get the wrench in there in a way you can turn it with any leverage. Another trick is to put the wrench on the nut and then clamp some big vice grips onto it.
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Apr 29, 2009 09:55
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si posted:I need some massive middle fingers to Subaru after yesterday. We decided to tackle brakes for my LGT by way of putting in stainless lines, Carbotech Bobcats, and new fluid. Yeah it was a pain in the rear end when I put SS lines on my LGT as well, loving annoying, but I got away with not trashing any of the flare nuts. I feel your pain.
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Apr 29, 2009 14:16
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