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jamal posted:craftsman stuff has gone downhill lately, but should still work fine. Yeah, two points in the rear, on either side of the "first" flexible line. The nut that I trashed pretty badly was the one that connects to the hardline which I assume runs all the way back to the ABS module up front. I can't imagine getting a big set of vice grips on it, I could barely get the 17mm wrench on the other side of it just to hold it. The ebrake line and ABS sensor wire and all the various suspension links and such are in the way. The one I can't get a clip on for the life of me is the other side of that flexible line going into the small hardline.
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Apr 29, 2009 14:25
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TurboLuvah posted:Yeah it was a pain in the rear end when I put SS lines on my LGT as well, loving annoying, but I got away with not trashing any of the flare nuts. I feel your pain. If there is a nut that can be stripped, I'll strip it.
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Apr 29, 2009 23:44
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Just changed my spark plugs today. Wow, I didn't realize how badly i needed them. Funny thing was I wasn't even at 15k yet, I wonder if the electrode wears faster on on higher output motors. So, I'm putting the word out. If you run coppers and your car's been feeling a bit sluggish, change those suckers. My car hits boost faster and pulls harder after changing them. Bonus shot from the uconn car show: 
dayman fucked around with this message at 00:00 on Apr 30, 2009 |
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Apr 29, 2009 23:51
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nm posted:Huuum, maybe I will pay someone to do this when I change my lines. There are 6 of them, and I would totally pay someone to do the lines if I had it to do all over again. Pads and fluid are cake.
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Apr 29, 2009 23:52
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Got my WRX back from the dealership today after getting the infamous knock problem; feels a little lighter than before, but that just may be because I've been driving a Forester this past week. The mechanic who did the work was straight up with me about there being a problem with these engines, and he even said he would call tomorrow with what he hears from Subaru HQ with regards to this happening to the replacement one. Here's to a(nother) long 1000 mile break in and hopefully a long life after that!
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Apr 29, 2009 23:58
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dayman posted:Just changed my spark plugs today. Wow, I didn't realize how badly i needed them. Funny thing was I wasn't even at 15k yet, I wonder if the electrode wears faster on on higher output motors. They were probably fouled from your tune I would guess (maybe running slightly rich), might want to pull them every so often and check on them. How long did it take you out of curiosity? I think it took me like 1.5 hours last time I did them.
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Apr 30, 2009 00:09
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TurboLuvah posted:They were probably fouled from your tune I would guess (maybe running slightly rich), might want to pull them every so often and check on them. How long did it take you out of curiosity? I think it took me like 1.5 hours last time I did them. i don't think i'm running that rich. 10.5:1 under boost. They looked fine when I pulled them out. They're coppers, they wear out. I just think that turbo cars are more susceptible to worn spark plugs because of pressurized air's insulating properties. Took me about an hour including waiting for mikhael to bring me a 12mm wrench. Are your spark plug ports as close to the inner fender as mine are? the aft spark plus were so tight, I didn't even have room to get a socket on the coil pack bolt. dayman fucked around with this message at 01:42 on Apr 30, 2009 |
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Apr 30, 2009 01:39
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I think it took me about an hour to do plugs on my WRX. The WRX comes stock with platinum plugs and are given a 60k mile change interval. When I replaced mine at 60k they looked clean as a whistle and all the gaps seemed to be quite alright as well. The car ran exactly the same after replacement too. I ended up putting iridium plugs back in there though just as a precaution. God that was a pain the the rear end. I tackled my remaining issues over the weekend. I got my used abs sensor last week and set about first to replace that. Then I promptly sheared the bolt off at the head that held the abs sensor. At least the replacment sensor only cost me $35. I figured I had nothing else to lose at that point so I grabbed a pair of pliers and bent the fucker back as true as I could make it. Problem solved. No more abs going off at low speed. God I could have did this months ago instead of living with the issue. I'm sure glad I didn't spend $115 on a new sensor. I just hope I never have a reason to need to disconnect the one that's there. Next up was the front O2 sensor. That was a cake job and a half. I rented the socket from autozone for free and had the thing swapped in a half hour. CEL is now gone and the car is running smooth as silk. I'll be anxious to see how my gas mileage shapes up now. I gained about 2.5 mpg (up to an average of 22.6) after my tranny was replaced. This should help the mileage even more. So, there I was all pleased with myself, then I discovered my AC system has a leak. gently caress.
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Apr 30, 2009 02:00
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Yeah, in both my WRX and LGT, I've replaced plugs every 40k, and they looked drat good when I pulled them as well. Did feel better with newer plugs however, but it was probably psychological. Bull, let me know about your gas mileage after, I'm getting around 20mpg around town if I'm lucky and about 23mpg on CC on highways. I was wondering if replacing my front 02 sensor might help despite the fact I have no CELs, maybe I can just swap a new one in and hope for an increase. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Apr 30, 2009 |
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Apr 30, 2009 03:23
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this was neat: Too bad the car has the biggest piece of poo poo rotated turbo kit in existence.
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Apr 30, 2009 07:21
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^^ Jamal, which shop do you work at? In the Virginia area by chance?
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Apr 30, 2009 13:34
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jamal posted:this was neat: Do tell us what turbo kit it is!
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Apr 30, 2009 22:09
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Lando posted:^^ Jamal, which shop do you work at? In the Virginia area by chance? HB speed in southern california. atomicfire posted:Do tell us what turbo kit it is! Garage tuning. Mild steel, crush bent, mig welded, then coated. It's terrible and will break within weeks. On top of that it's missing a bunch of poo poo so now the car is just sitting there. jamal fucked around with this message at 11:03 on May 1, 2009 |
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May 1, 2009 10:57
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Are the bigger brakes on the 2006/7 WRXs that much better than the earlier efforts? After the 92x's 45k mile service the mechanic told me I need new pads and rear discs, and at the price he quoted I could probably upgrade to the 6 pot fronts and 2 pot rears (http://www.fastwrx.com/sufobrup.html) - should I? Also, anyone used that place in NoVA?
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May 1, 2009 11:51
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They are that much better, just make sure whatever wheels you will be running will clear them. You can usually scope some good deals on used sets on NASIOC. So for new pads and rear discs he quoted you like ~$4-500+? Wtf? You can grab new pads all around for around ~$150, rear discs shouldn't be that much more, and they're very easy to do yourself. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 13:55 on May 1, 2009 |
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May 1, 2009 13:28
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Also, that the hell is going on with your car that you need new rear discs at 45k? I didn't even have to replace my rear pads until 63k and I autocross the car.
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May 1, 2009 13:37
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I was a bit suspicious. The total quote was for $1300, to replace the front pads and machine the front rotors, replace the rears totally as apparently they're 'pretty grooved,' and replace the two 'drive belts' which have 'hairline cracks.' One of the other mechanics there took a look at the belts with me when I picked it up and was all wtf there's nothing wrong with them. The car is running the stock 16"s if they don't clear the bigger rear discs I might not bother because I don't really want to have to buy new wheels and tyres in addition to brakes - I'd rather spend the money on an accessport and a head unit that would let me plug in my iPod.
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May 1, 2009 14:23
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Dr JonboyG posted:I was a bit suspicious. The total quote was for $1300, to replace the front pads and machine the front rotors, replace the rears totally as apparently they're 'pretty grooved,' and replace the two 'drive belts' which have 'hairline cracks.' One of the other mechanics there took a look at the belts with me when I picked it up and was all wtf there's nothing wrong with them. GODDAMN! $1300?!  That is absolutely loving INSANE. Never go back to that dealer ever again. You could pick up a set of Brembos for that price, Jesus Christ.If you have a set of jacks and some tools you can replace the pads and rotors in a few hours yourself for muuuuuch much cheaper, and still have enough left over for an AP and a new headunit. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 14:28 on May 1, 2009 |
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May 1, 2009 14:26
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The 1300 included replacing the serpentine belts, but I agree it seems a bit outrageous. The weird thing is they've been pretty reasonable otherwise. Doing the brakes myself might be possible (although I doubt the wife would let me) plus I'd have to do them on the street, but I might check out that shop in NoVA.
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May 1, 2009 14:45
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Dr JonboyG posted:The 1300 included replacing the serpentine belts, but I agree it seems a bit outrageous. The weird thing is they've been pretty reasonable otherwise. Serp belts are like $20 each and take 10 minutes to replace. That place is trying to rip you off, plain and simple. I've paid less to have a new clutch and flywheel installed at a dealership.
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May 1, 2009 14:48
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Well, 10 minutes if you've done it before. It's not hard, but it probably took me closer to an hour to replace the two belts because sometimes it's a little hard to get them over the pulleys and in the grooves properly. The rotors are a cakewalk though. As long as you pick up the right sized and pitch bolt to back off the rotor, it's as simple as taking the wheel off, undoing two bolts to remove the caliper, threading the two bolts you bought into the two holes to break the rotor free and then put everything back together again. I still question that you need new rear rotors though. Something is really screwed up with your brakes if they managed to groove them. Do they look grooved to you?
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May 1, 2009 15:35
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bull3964 posted:I still question that you need new rear rotors though. Something is really screwed up with your brakes if they managed to groove them. Do they look grooved to you? I wouldn't really trust that place to give him a straight answer, "Ohhh yeah your rotors are...grooved...and need to be replaced as well. Just swipe your credit card here." I've seen rotors grooved/scored when people have rode the pads down past the wear indicators and properly hosed up the rotor that way.
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May 1, 2009 15:44
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TurboLuvah posted:
Yeah, that can happen, but in 45k? I mean, hell, my front pads lasted me to 35k and I was doing about 10 autocrosses a year.
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May 1, 2009 15:57
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Dr JonboyG posted:Also, anyone used that place in NoVA? I live close to this shop and I've bought quite a bit of stuff from them, they are a good shop and you shouldn't have any problems.
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May 1, 2009 16:07
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Dr JonboyG posted:Are the bigger brakes on the 2006/7 WRXs that much better than the earlier efforts? After the 92x's 45k mile service the mechanic told me I need new pads and rear discs, and at the price he quoted I could probably upgrade to the 6 pot fronts and 2 pot rears (http://www.fastwrx.com/sufobrup.html) - should I? Also, anyone used that place in NoVA? They're good brakes but the stock ones with the right pads are perfectly fine. Additionally the 2-pot rears do not bolt on and need an adapter bracket. You should be able to find a shop familiar with subarus to replace your pads and rotors for $500 or less. My last set of pads lasted me about 8 months and 10k miles. And I had relatively large brakes for the weight and power of the car.
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May 2, 2009 07:33
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bull3964 posted:The rotors are a cakewalk though. As long as you pick up the right sized and pitch bolt to back off the rotor, it's as simple as taking the wheel off, undoing two bolts to remove the caliper, threading the two bolts you bought into the two holes to break the rotor free and then put everything back together again.
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May 2, 2009 07:56
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"[ELP posted:"] I just finally got the engine pulled apart from this experience I posted above. Turns out two of the rods shattered, filled the whole oil system with shredded metal. So I'm probably looking at about 4k+ now. The heads just went out to get tested, I hope to god they're fine. The pistons banged around inside the bore slightly and apparently it looks like they could be oversized, if they were we'll have to put in a whole new shortblock. ffffffffuuuuck me.
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May 2, 2009 21:52
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"[ELP posted:"] http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=2973186&pagenumber=20&perpage=40#post353675851
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May 2, 2009 22:25
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"[ELP posted:"] Well I hope you didn't pay too much for that car based on your previous post kimbo linked. On the bright side, you can get a nice shiny new 2.5L turbo shortblock pretty cheap these days ($1800 I want to say?). Honestly I wouldn't bother trying to fix that 2.0 unless you're really dead set on it. If you're going to spend $4+k just go ahead and do the 2.5L conversion. Edit: $1800 it is: http://www.fredbeansparts.com/servlet/the-1180/Subaru-OEM-EJ257-STi/Detail
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May 2, 2009 22:30
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Well the point is now driven home that I'm an idiot. I get it, I was stupid, I still only paid 6k for the car :| (I'm trying to salvage my dignity) I'm going to wait and see what the condition of the heads are before I make any decisions, I'm hoping to get a 2.5 liter conversion though. I have to keep in mind that my budget is limited to around 5k for this adventure, even though the 2.5 would be a better choice since I plan on tuning the poo poo out of it in the future. My mechanic also suggested that I'd almost certainly want a new turbo with the 2.5 upgrade :|
Bob Log fucked around with this message at 23:03 on May 2, 2009 |
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May 2, 2009 22:54
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Friend's 90 Legacy needs a new starter motor. Is it possible to remove without jacking the car up? Haynes makes it seem like you gotta climb under to loosen a bolt, does that sound right?
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May 3, 2009 23:27
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With the right extension and a wobbly socket you can get to it. Much easier from the bottom though.
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May 3, 2009 23:41
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Put about 500 miles on the Forester XT this weekend driving up north for the weekend. It scared the hell out of me though when I headed home today. It was revving much higher than normal before shifting when I sped up to 55mph. I pulled over and put it in park, then got back out on the road (in case it was in overdrive or something - even though my gear indicator said Drive). Once again, it revved up to about 5500RPM before it finally shifted and everything was fine for the rest of the trip home. Any idea what could have caused that? I'm still kind of freaking out about it even though the rest of the drive back it ran great.
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May 4, 2009 03:08
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LordOfThePants posted:Put about 500 miles on the Forester XT this weekend driving up north for the weekend. It scared the hell out of me though when I headed home today. It was revving much higher than normal before shifting when I sped up to 55mph. I pulled over and put it in park, then got back out on the road (in case it was in overdrive or something - even though my gear indicator said Drive). Once again, it revved up to about 5500RPM before it finally shifted and everything was fine for the rest of the trip home. Was it unusually cold? Subaru transmissions do that on purpose when they are cold to bring their operating temperatures up. If I don't let mine warm up on a cold day, it will hold 1st gear at like 5000 for quite a while before shifting, even under light throttle.
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May 4, 2009 04:02
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One small (potentially stupid) question that has been nagging me about my '05 9-2x. When I lock/arm it sometimes it will honk and sometimes it will beep. I have no idea why it does which or what they mean, I assume they both mean it's armed but I can't determine any rhyme or reason to why sometimes the alarm beeps and other times I get a honk. Anybody? I'm assuming it's the same alarm as on the WRX's but not certain.
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May 4, 2009 17:34
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si posted:Was it unusually cold? Subaru transmissions do that on purpose when they are cold to bring their operating temperatures up. If I don't let mine warm up on a cold day, it will hold 1st gear at like 5000 for quite a while before shifting, even under light throttle. It wasn't cold out, probably 50-60 degrees. I guess it's possible it was in "warm up mode" since it had sat parked since Friday night. That's probably longer than I've left it parked since I bought it. MMD3 - on the locking beep/horn, I had some confusion with my Forester. There's a beeper that beeps when you lock/unlock the doors, but it is apparently in a bad spot and they get broken easily. If you hit the lock button three times, it will honk the horn and flash the parking lights (this is the "car finder" feature). My beeper is dead apparently - I'm going to try and track one down to replace it. LordOfThePants fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 4, 2009 |
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May 4, 2009 17:51
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I grew up around Subarus and drove the family 93 Legacy Wagon between 2004 and 2006. During that time I more or less abused the hell out of it - driving with cheap gas at altitude and ignoring the intermittant CEL that a mechanic informed me was probably the knock sensor due to this - driving on dying CVs, etc, etc. I was pretty stupid about cars, but the only major repairs it asked of me was new CVs, despite being 200k+ miles and having somewhere between 1500 and 2000 highway miles put on it weekly due to work at that time. It got rear-ended on the interstate by a Town&Country, an accident it drove 40 miles home from, then was totalled by the insurance. This being the backstory for purposes of detailing just how reliable that car seemed to me, high mileage, poor treatment, but it just kept delivering. Anyways after that I moved to my current ride, an 87 GTI, and while I love the car as it's much more fun to drive, it's also becoming a bit of a maintenance hog. Since I've owned it, I've had multiple major repairs(Fuel Pump, Alternator, entire brake system, water pump) and it's beginning to be a moneysink I'm losing interest in. I've started looking at new cars, specifically Subarus as the reliably noted above and having AWD is a perk I've missed for the past few years. I can't afford a brand new Subaru of any model or trim, so I've been looking at used older models, and have been attracted to the idea of owning a 2.5RS Coupe. My question, as we finally get to it, is if, supposing I can find a nicely maintained late-year(00,01) model in good condition - what sort of upkeep can I expect from a nearing-decade-old Impreza? Supposing that, while my understanding of proper care and treatment of cars has improved, I don't have a garage or a broad toolset or hands-on experience to do many major repairs - I'd hate to find myself buying a newer car only to find it needing as much work as my old car. I wouldn't be tracking or autocrossing it, just daily driving for maybe a total of a couple hundred miles monthly. tldr: Is an RS Coupe going to be another moneysink with work needed every other month or are they as bulletproof as my previous Subaru?
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May 4, 2009 18:22
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Is this going to be a typical AI question where we all give you advice and you do the opposite anyway? 
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May 4, 2009 18:40
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si posted:Was it unusually cold? Subaru transmissions do that on purpose when they are cold to bring their operating temperatures up. If I don't let mine warm up on a cold day, it will hold 1st gear at like 5000 for quite a while before shifting, even under light throttle. It's to bring the operating temperature of the cats up, not the transmission. It's an attempt to start cat light-off quicker in colder weather.
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May 4, 2009 19:40
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atomicfire posted:It's to bring the operating temperature of the cats up, not the transmission. It's an attempt to start cat light-off quicker in colder weather. I had no idea, that makes sense though. That is also the purpose of the air pump on the modern motors, right?
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May 4, 2009 20:00
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