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EvilMoFo posted:my 2000 528i just had a couple coils fail, with cyl 3 and 5 misfiring ... it shakes so violently I've got two brand new ones I'll send to you for 85 shipped. On a different note, I sold my 96 328i yesterday evening...still hasn't sunk in quite yet.
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Apr 28, 2009 19:45
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zamin posted:This is one of the reasons why I love the area I live in, now. My hometown (Evansvile, IN), while having many affluent areas and people, had maybe the same 1 in 40/50 cars on the road ratio, if not worse. There was a girl in my high school that was thought of as super rich (granted she was rich) because she was a sophomore in 2000 driving a '93 325i. This kind of area leads many people to believe that BMW automatically equals "rich, pretentious douchebag" regardless of the model or year. Hell, my 88 Honda cost me $1,300. I could buy an E30 in similar condition for around the same price, but if I drive it up there, I'm a douchebag. Yeah, but it sort of sucks dishing out for a nice 3 series and having every single person you run into say something like "oh yeah my grandma has one of those" or "oh yeah my moms boyfriend bought her one of those" or "oh yeah my parents just bought me one of those" or "you drive a 3 series? Why not an M3? or a 6 series?" or "Don't park that piece of poo poo E92 next to my loving Bentley, you pleb" or "Hey let me go into the car wash first my car costs more than a house". Yeah i love my area, nothing better than rich folks 3 times my age making GBS threads on me because i don't have a rolls royce in my twenties.  OIL BOOOOOOM
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Apr 28, 2009 19:46
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Garth Fader posted:Yeah, but it sort of sucks dishing out for a nice 3 series and having every single person you run into say something like "oh yeah my grandma has one of those" or "oh yeah my moms boyfriend bought her one of those" or "oh yeah my parents just bought me one of those" or "you drive a 3 series? Why not an M3? or a 6 series?" or "Don't park that piece of poo poo E92 next to my loving Bentley, you pleb" or "Hey let me go into the car wash first my car costs more than a house". My favorite, "If you're going to drive a BMW, at least drive a 5-series!" Because, y'know, I drive the car so I can show off my money and stuff! Not because it's got an inline six + manual transmission + rear wheel drive, maybe perhaps?
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Apr 28, 2009 20:00
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I think I have finally determined the source of my problems to be related to the fuel pump. When fuel is low (1/8th tank or less) the car seems sluggish and delayed on the gas. When I push the pedal to the floor the revs will just stop and car simply dies for a second. When I am really low on fuel, the instant I press the gas to start the car the revs will actually drop for a second, commonly stalling the car out. Hopefully this doesn't mean my fuel pump is going to eat poo poo soon as long as I keep a fair bit of gas in the car.
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Apr 29, 2009 00:58
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CornHolio posted:My favorite, "If you're going to drive a BMW, at least drive a 5-series!" Counterpoint: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rIDLzW9Jcio
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Apr 29, 2009 05:57
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Crosspost of mine from the new E30 thread that sliderule posted. For the Canadian goons that buy parts in the USA the best way to avoid these massive rape charges is, if it's convenient, find a place on the American side of the border that will let you ship things to them and they will usually charge a nominal fee ($5-$10) to hold it. It's a lot cheaper for me to drive to the border and back (maybe $60 in gas) than to pay $340 in rape-me-please charges. I have a place in Bellingham, WA that does this for me and I have no issues posting up the info if anyone requests it. Can't help with any other state/location. Another excellent advantage to this is that shipping within the lower 48 is usually free which can be a huge help as well.
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Apr 29, 2009 09:00
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Hey guy's I've read back 10-15 pages or so and couldn't really find an answer so if this has been asked before I'm sorry. I'm looking at an '89 325iX coupe, I've seen the normal sort of stuff to look for, timing belt, cooling system, rust, etc. But I was wondering if there's anything specific to the iX I should know to look for when I go to actually view the car? Also the car happens to be a slushbox, are they absolutely terrible? I've never seen one of these for sale around here before and I'd love to be the owner of an AWD BMW coupe.
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Apr 29, 2009 11:47
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Omgz posted:Hey guy's I've read back 10-15 pages or so and couldn't really find an answer so if this has been asked before I'm sorry. I'm looking at an '89 325iX coupe, I've seen the normal sort of stuff to look for, timing belt, cooling system, rust, etc. But I was wondering if there's anything specific to the iX I should know to look for when I go to actually view the car? Also the car happens to be a slushbox, are they absolutely terrible? I've never seen one of these for sale around here before and I'd love to be the owner of an AWD BMW coupe. The best you can do is probably check the condition of the front axles (CV boots - torn or not?). Front axles will run you 1000, each. You can sometimes find remanufactured ones for about 500 on ebay if you're lucky. The transfer case is also another problem area (Splines on the front driveshaft can strip, chain can become stretched and chatter on the case). But realistically you can't see any of those problems without removing the driveshaft. Just about everything else is the same as any other e30. Keep in mind that these are most of the unique parts -Transmission (the getrag is modified to accept the transfer case on the end), I assume the auto is the same -Rear driveshaft (shortened, but there is no center shaft bearing) -Transfer case (unique to iX, usually runs a few hundred for a new one) -Front driveshaft (connects transfer case to front diff) -Front axles ($$$$) -Front suspension setup -Oil pan completely different, engine block is very slightly changed for oil dipstick Rear drivetrain/suspension is the exact same as any other sedan/coupe e30. Basically, you want service records. I wouldn't loving go near an iX without service records as anything going on the front end can cost a shitload. And personally I'd avoid an auto. E30s aren't super powerful but the 5spd helps make it seem a little faster. If you're up near a snowy area the AWD is great in the winter (rear bias) but it also makes the car heavier, ride higher and slightly slower.
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Apr 29, 2009 18:47
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Yes I'm in alaska so AWD would really be quite nice, thanks for the information I really appreciate it. Also wow at the $1000 CV axles, I knew it'd be expensive but that is crazy. I'm really hoping for maintenance records but those types of owners seem few and far between up here. Anyway, thanks for the insight.
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Apr 29, 2009 23:27
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Where are the best places to tap 12v power around the E46 sedan? Obviously anything in the trunk needing always-on power goes right to the battery and the garage door opener line in front of the sunroof is a fairly well known switched power point for radar detectors and the like, but what else is there that's easily reached?
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Apr 30, 2009 02:13
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Oh crap i'm sorry I didn't see this thread - i posted a thread about a BMW issue, I'm sorry I can't skim this whole thread right now but I will read it entirely soon - here's the thread post: I have a 2004 BMW 330Ci - which from what I can work out is a M54 engine in a E46 body. I am pretty familiar with cars/trucks, but BMW took the air intake to another level and I like my car and didn't want to fiddle around with it like I usually do and end up breaking half a dozen things as I rip it apart to see its squishy insides. But it's not that new and exciting any more, the car has approx 100k miles and the according to the shop DISA valve is busted (not sure how bad since I've never cracked a wrench on this), and the lower air intake boot is cracked. I can verify the former now that I know what the hell the DISA valve is, I understand it as a variable long/short intake switch based on RPM controlled by the ECU - it's stuck open if I had to guess, since it's sputtering on low RPM. Assuming that's correct, my assumption there are 2 air intake tubes, probably the same one with a valve in the center that is the DISA valve that cuts off the long intake to become a 'short intake'. Regardless if I am totally off in my imagining of the engineering of my car, my question boils down to: should I attempt to repair the stock DISA valve/intake or can I relatively safely replace it with an aftermarket intake eg K&N. If I do that, would the ECU be attempting to switch a DISA valve that doesn't exist and would it trigger check engine lights and/or other 'corrections'? This thing is so run by computers I'm afraid to touch anything for fear it won't recognize what I did and overcompensate somewhere else. Anyway, any experience with BMWs and/or DISA valve and/or replacing or repairing them? Any insights are appreciated, I don't want to mess it up but it feels like it's gonna die at stop lights when it first gets going and that's not cool. I would say I could just wire the DISA valve closed instead but apparently the whole boot is cracked so that's out. Any input appreciated. I want to feel like I know what I'm doing at least somewhat before I seriously start working on a drat BMW. EDIT: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3127566 thread Demerzel fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Apr 30, 2009 |
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Apr 30, 2009 02:30
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There's no aftermarket solution that I know of that would plug into the hole left by the DISA valve. If you decide to remove the unit entirely it will not throw a check engine light(assuming you plug the hole with something air-tight), but your engine would run pretty badly. The DISA is an integral part of this motor's intake system. You really shouldn't just remove it. A K&N intake would connect to the intake boot upstream of the throttle. Most likely in front of the Y-boot (I'm guessing this is the boot that's cracked), so a K&N would solve neither of your problems. Replacing the DISA takes a few minutes; I'd start calling around for parts prices. The y-boot is sort of a pain in the rear end due to space constraints around the hose clamps, but it's cheap and slightly easier with the DISA removed. Good luck. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 02:44 on Apr 30, 2009 |
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Apr 30, 2009 02:40
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peterjmatt posted:There's no aftermarket solution that I know of that would plug into the hole left by the DISA valve. If you decide to remove the unit entirely it will not throw a check engine light(assuming you plug the hole with something air-tight), but your engine would run pretty badly. The DISA is an integral part of this motor's intake system. You really shouldn't just remove it. So it's actually a Y that closes left or right and I'm stuck on the longer one? And the K&N would be the shorter one? I'm having trouble picturing this.
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Apr 30, 2009 02:45
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Demerzel posted:So it's actually a Y that closes left or right and I'm stuck on the longer one? No, the y-boot is in front of the throttle. It has nothing to do with the DISA; it provides air to the throttle and the idle control valve. If this boot has a hole in it you're allowing unmetered air into your intake and replacing it would be my first move in a poor running condition. The DISA is completely enclosed in the intake manifold. It basically changes the shape of the intake runners, allowing either a long path or a short path depending on engine load. Usually it becomes very noisy before it fails. When it does fail it doesn't cause a rough running condition. Usually the complaint would be poor throttle response either off the line or while cruising, depending on which position it failed in.
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Apr 30, 2009 02:54
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peterjmatt posted:No, the y-boot is in front of the throttle. It has nothing to do with the DISA; it provides air to the throttle and the idle control valve. If this boot has a hole in it you're allowing unmetered air into your intake and replacing it would be my first move in a poor running condition. Ah this helps a lot - so the Y is just intakes from either side and an aftermarket would just do a straight pipe to it instead of a Y?
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Apr 30, 2009 03:03
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No, an aftermarket would have to go before the y. You need that boot to feed your throttle and idle valve. There may be some aftermarket y-boot, but I've never seen one. Edit: Here, I drew you a picture:  Click here for the full 682x724 image. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Apr 30, 2009 |
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Apr 30, 2009 03:05
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peterjmatt posted:No, an aftermarket would have to go before the y. You need that boot to feed your throttle and idle valve. There may be some aftermarket y-boot, but I've never seen one. Thanks for your patient answers, it's amazing to me how drat complex this is for what is essentially an air intake. Is the DISA valve something I should just throw to the shop? I think they quoted it at like $300 at the dealer. I'm a little iffy about getting into the manifold unless it's super easy. EDIT: You totally rock for that picture - that is more information in one glance than hours of poring over bmw forums for this stuff. Since this has been a surprisingly quick fountain of knowledge - I have one other much simpler question. Where does the outer temperature sensor connect to? My foglight got knocked out and somehow that sensor was a casualty, it's always 122 degrees outside. My mechanic assures me that this does not affect the engine, but I wonder. Regardless, it was nice to know what the goddamn temperature was, and I found the actual unit but don't know what it connects to. Demerzel fucked around with this message at 04:59 on Apr 30, 2009 |
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Apr 30, 2009 04:55
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The DISA unit is indeed super easy to replace. It's held in with 2 torx screws and a wire connector. You may need to remove the plastic panel surrounding the brake booster enclosure to get enough clearance, but tops it's a half hour job at home, assuming you have basic tools (including torx sockets; if you don't have them yet, buy some. You'll use them a lot on BMWs). The boot is a little bit more of a pain in the rear end, though it still requires very basic tools (in this case you need a long, flexible extension with a 6mm socket to remove hose clamps). I can't appraise your mechanical abilities, but it's certainly a doable garage job. edit: The exterior temp sensor is under the car on the panel connected to the left front wheel liner. On your car a broken sensor won't affect the engine electronics, but it may keep the AC compressor from cycling on. Ethelinda Sapsea fucked around with this message at 05:14 on Apr 30, 2009 |
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Apr 30, 2009 05:10
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Quick question for the BMW crowd. I'm sitting here drooling over sock and co's project threads. While doing this I am thinking how much fun it would be to pick up an older BMW say 535i or whatnot from around '80-'87 and keep it running. I have a decent bit of mechanical knowledge (pulled a few engines done head gaskets and valve jobs.) Would this be a reasonable thing if say I found one for 500-1500$ For that price I could beat it into the ground or kill it and not feel to bad. Also how quickly do these fail emissions in CA? Fake edit: I love me some older bimmers 
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Apr 30, 2009 05:13
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Quick question for the BMW crowd. I'm sitting here drooling over sock and co's project threads. While doing this I am thinking how much fun it would be to pick up an older BMW say 535i or whatnot from around '80-'87 and keep it running. I have a decent bit of mechanical knowledge (pulled a few engines done head gaskets and valve jobs.) Would this be a reasonable thing if say I found one for 500-1500$ For that price I could beat it into the ground or kill it and not feel to bad. Most BMWs prior to the 2000s+ (computer parts argh!) are very simple to work on and parts are fairly cheap. Not the cheapest but not Porsche either. 3 series would obviously be the easiest because there is more support and junkers around to get parts off. Cars are cars imo and if you can work on them you won't have any issues with most BMWs. Can't help with the emissions thing but if you wanted a good starter you might like an E30/E36 and they can be had in that price range. If you are looking for a cheap beater just worry about rust/body/engine for the most part. Even the engine might not be a big deal though since you could just put a V8 or something in there instead 
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Apr 30, 2009 06:23
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Quick question for the BMW crowd. I'm sitting here drooling over sock and co's project threads. While doing this I am thinking how much fun it would be to pick up an older BMW say 535i or whatnot from around '80-'87 and keep it running. I have a decent bit of mechanical knowledge (pulled a few engines done head gaskets and valve jobs.) Would this be a reasonable thing if say I found one for 500-1500$ For that price I could beat it into the ground or kill it and not feel to bad. I owned a 1987 535iS and I currently drive a 1991 318iS. Wonderfully simple to work on, both cars. I had to remove my oil pan to check my oil pump bolts and I forgot how nice it was to have room to move around and not have to remove all sorts of plastic panels. Some things are still a pain, but most things are simple and straightforward. BMW loves "special tools" for certain jobs like removing suspension bushings or wheel bearings, but there are "home brew" solutions to most of them. The M30 engine in a 535i/iS is very stout. Change the oil and adjust the valves regularly and it will go for ages and ages. Same with the transmissions. If you've pulled engines and done valve jobs, you should have no issues taking care of an old BMW.
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Apr 30, 2009 12:37
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Ponies ate my Bagel posted:Quick question for the BMW crowd. I'm sitting here drooling over sock and co's project threads. While doing this I am thinking how much fun it would be to pick up an older BMW say 535i or whatnot from around '80-'87 and keep it running. I have a decent bit of mechanical knowledge (pulled a few engines done head gaskets and valve jobs.) Would this be a reasonable thing if say I found one for 500-1500$ For that price I could beat it into the ground or kill it and not feel to bad. My 733i easily passed smog and it had a much more outdated M30 than your hypothetical (m)535i(s). And if you beat it into the ground you will feel bad, it's too drat easy to get attached to these drat cars 
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Apr 30, 2009 20:22
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gently caress, I just finished re-wiring the thermostat housing sensors and 1-3 fuel injector circuits meticulously, and now I don't get any spark. I threw in a new coil just for shits but that didn't do a thing. I'm 99.99999999% sure i did all of the wiring properly, since I've had to do this before. M20 engines aren't that complex
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May 1, 2009 02:08
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Anyone want a free M20B27 longblock? Yours free, just show up at my house with a truck and I'll be glad to help toss it in the back and secure it. Hell, if you show up soon, I'll include the 5 speed transmission/clutch/flywheel. EDIT: Also, add 'a ton of interior parts/seats' from my E30 325. All black leatherette. Pick em up or they're going by the curb come Tuesday. Birmingham, AL. PM me or post if you're interested. You can come pick stuff up, we can drink some of my fruity high-grav Belgian beers and talk about 25 year old cars with 10 year old motors. Yes, I realize most GOONZ don't live nearby. Just tossing this out there as a favor. Incidentally, if you're looking for a specific, small, shippable part, I'll ship it to you for the cost of shipping. I have a ton of boxes, and want to repay the AI community for what it's given me over the years. multiprotocol fucked around with this message at 02:01 on May 2, 2009 |
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May 1, 2009 03:36
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What state are you in?
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May 1, 2009 03:47
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multiprotocol posted:Anyone want a free M20B27 longblock? Yours free, just show up at my house with a truck and I'll be glad to help toss it in the back and secure it. No kidding, where are you?
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May 1, 2009 04:00
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Birmingham, Alabama. PM me if you're interested.
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May 1, 2009 13:18
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Why are so many people into the 80s and 90s BMW? I'm wondering if the E46 is worth learning to tweak. It seems like it would be since I hate the new E90s, they look like generic sedans with a BMW symbol on them to me. I do have the 2004 so it's the last one before the E90. Worth playing with?
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May 1, 2009 17:59
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Demerzel posted:Worth playing with? Yes absolutely. The popularity of the E30 and E36 are due to their widespread availability, low cost, and bang-for-the-buck factor. Having relatively fewer electronics than the E46 makes them somewhat easier to maintain. Honestly, I "downgraded" from an E46 330i to an E36 M3 and couldn't be happier. It would have taken several thousand dollars to bring the E46 up to parity with the E36. If you're not shy about shelling out for new suspension, diff, etc, you can get a non-M E46 very near the E36 M's performance. Personally, if I were you I'd keep the 04 stock and find a fun, cheap project to play with, like a 94-95 325is. For about the price of a nice suspension upgrade for your E46, you could have a whole car.
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May 1, 2009 18:07
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Demerzel posted:Why are so many people into the 80s and 90s BMW? I'm wondering if the E46 is worth learning to tweak. It seems like it would be since I hate the new E90s, they look like generic sedans with a BMW symbol on them to me. I do have the 2004 so it's the last one before the E90. Worth playing with? E30's and older are the best looking BMW's (In my opinion) and they are built to be self maintained. I love working on my E30, it has access panels for everything, its easy to take apart, and its a solid peice of engineering. And of course, above all, they are a blast to drive.
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May 1, 2009 18:12
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Demerzel posted:Why are so many people into the 80s and 90s BMW? I'm wondering if the E46 is worth learning to tweak. It seems like it would be since I hate the new E90s, they look like generic sedans with a BMW symbol on them to me. I do have the 2004 so it's the last one before the E90. Worth playing with? Actually the 05 is the last one before the E90. Also I love my E46 but I have honestly been looking at E36 M3s and even Z3s (I wanted one of those since Goldeneye came out) more. Maybe as a second car...
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May 1, 2009 18:23
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Sterndotstern posted:Personally, if I were you I'd keep the 04 stock and find a fun, cheap project to play with, like a 94-95 325is. For about the price of a nice suspension upgrade for your E46, you could have a whole car. This is pretty much what I've decided to do. The E46 got some cosmetic tweaks, tires, and some electronics, but as far as I'm concerned it's basically done for now and will remain as my daily. All "play" money right now is going in to savings to put down on a house when my lease runs out, then when I have a garage an E36 will magically appear as my thing to turn wrenches on.
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May 1, 2009 19:21
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Demerzel posted:Why are so many people into the 80s and 90s BMW? The 80's and early '90s are considered BMW's "Golden Age" by most enthusiasts. Easy to work on, over engineered, bullet-proof cars, with a huge community of people with solutions to all the problems. NEW OEM parts are also available from BMW dealers anywhere and there is a huge aftermarket with things like suspension, turbo kits, exhausts, etc. They also have a timeless design that even non-car people can appreciate. My wife says the E30 I have is the best looking BMW I've owned (I've also had an E46, an E28, and an E39).
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May 1, 2009 23:18
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I'm trying to change the manual transmission fluid in my e36 m3, but drat I cannot get the fluid fill plug off of the tranny for the life of me. Are these plugs usually stuck real bad? I used a 15" breaker bar after soaking the thing down with wd-40 and it would not budge. I was pulling the breaker bar towards me (underneath the front of the car looking back at the transmission) so I'm pretty sure I was turning the bolt counter clockwise. I'm doing this as part of a DIY inspection II (who would have though changing a valve cover gasket would be easier than tranny fluid) 
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May 2, 2009 00:30
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Realjones posted:I used a 15" breaker bar after soaking the thing down with wd-40 and it would not budge. WD-40 isn't a penetrant IIRC, just a lubricant. Try Liquid Wrench or PB Blaster or the like.
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May 2, 2009 00:53
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Demerzel posted:Why are so many people into the 80s and 90s BMW? I'm wondering if the E46 is worth learning to tweak. It seems like it would be since I hate the new E90s, they look like generic sedans with a BMW symbol on them to me. I do have the 2004 so it's the last one before the E90. Worth playing with? E30/E36 BMWs are really, really easy to work on - at least, in my opinion and the opinion of tons of other people. Best, most iconic body styles as well. disclaimer: i have one of each :X
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May 2, 2009 02:05
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Bringing this home tomorrow:   I strongly disliked like the E90 sedan when it came out but the new coupe really strikes my fancy. It's a 2007 E92 328xi with 35k, Titanium Silver/Dark Burl, Prem/Cold/Comfort/Sat/Nav, automatic (my first slushbox  drat you commute traffic).I'm coming from an E46 325xi which I loved dearly... and my brother will hopefully take good care of. admiraldennis fucked around with this message at 07:50 on May 2, 2009 |
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May 2, 2009 07:41
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admiraldennis posted:Bringing this home tomorrow: Sweet! I had an E92 328xi as a loaner for a week once and loved it, even with the automatic. The automatic in the 335i I drove was much better though. Still, I was very impressed with the power of the 328xi. I really don't think you need much more. I did find the road noise level a bit high, but that was probably the run-flats more than anything else. Enjoy your new BMW!
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May 2, 2009 20:10
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Dyscrasia posted:E30's and older are the best looking BMW's (In my opinion) and they are built to be self maintained. I love working on my E30, it has access panels for everything, its easy to take apart, and its a solid peice of engineering. There's just something about the style of E30s that I and many other find extremely appealing. It doesn't feel like a 15 year old car either.
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May 2, 2009 23:40
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So I ran a real road course with the car for the first time today, and while it ran great and I had fun, it had some heating issues that I need to get resolved before I do it again. Car: E36, 95' M3. Normally, the temperature stays rock steady, just to the right of the middle of the gauge. Today, running the road course at PIR, the car would start to heat up after about 5 minutes of hard running, and for the rest of the session, I would have to run the NASCAR portion of the track in 5th gear at partial throttle to drop the temp. I was doing this on every lap, which was fairly annoying, but at least I got to do the curves as hard as I could drive. Does anyone else track their M3 that has encountered heating issues and resolved them? If so, any suggestions on what I should start checking to remedy the situation? I did discover that one blade of the fan has broken and departed this world, so I know I need to replace the fan. The water pump and radiator are both new (less than 3000 miles on them).
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May 3, 2009 02:16
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