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jonathan posted:So after putting the throttle to the floor briefly to pass a big rig, my check engine light came on, and stayed on. You don't need a code reader to pull the codes anyway. Put the key in, do ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON with it, and the codes will read out on the odometer. My guess is that you have a semi-bad TPS that generates faulty output at or near WOT. They are basically a potentiometer, and can wear out at various spots throughout the range of the sensor. quote:The thing that pisses me off is I couldn't even get a good answer over on Jeepforum. If anybody ever has any questions about replacing spider gears, just ask me. As long as your ring or pinion gears aren't damaged, it's a walk in the park. Hey I think I saw your question over there in the YJ forum. Good job on replacing the spiders. Most people are terrified of working on diffs. My next wrenching goal is to learn how to set up gears.
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Apr 27, 2009 03:56
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I don't know if I'll ever graduate to that level. Compared to spider gears, setting up the big gears is insane. I've seen a few writeups on how it's done. Getting all the tools to do it seems to be drat near as expensive as just paying a shop.
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Apr 27, 2009 04:31
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On the way to work tonight I managed to run over my vacuum canister. The PO had just left it loose in the bumper, and since it needed replacement I just left it alone. I apparently hit a pothole at just the right speed, sound of plastic being run over and the a/c went to defrost vents. Think its time I move the stupid thing to an under hood location.
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Apr 27, 2009 04:43
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Clamwacker posted:I don't know if I'll ever graduate to that level. Compared to spider gears, setting up the big gears is insane. I've seen a few writeups on how it's done. Getting all the tools to do it seems to be drat near as expensive as just paying a shop. A lot of that stuff can be rented, but that's what I've been focusing on: learning the "tricks" to get around things like bearing presses. For example, after you find the pinion depth with setup bearings, you can "press" the pinion bearings on without a press by throwing the pinion in a freezer for a few hours, bake the bearings in an oven for a little bit, and they slide together with no pressure at all, then you can install them.
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Apr 27, 2009 04:53
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Brother's jeep... figured he'd post it by now. '98 XJ 4.0 5spd. Picked it up for $1k, although we're into it for twice that after replacing a million little things. Stock minus the Dynomax cat-back and three sets of Hella lamps.  Click here for the full 2048x1362 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1362 image.  Click here for the full 2048x1362 image. Needs a new U joint up front but I can't get the drat bolts on the hub loose (rounded one of the 12pt heads with my impact  ) Also has a leaking exhaust manifold. Other than that, it's almost perfect!
Blaise fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Apr 27, 2009 04:57
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I have a 98 XJ and I ran some seafoam through my engine last week. Had all of the fun smoke and everything associated with that. Now it's running rough and the check engine light is on. Am I going to die?
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Apr 27, 2009 05:55
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ph4lcon posted:I have a 98 XJ and I ran some seafoam through my engine last week. Had all of the fun smoke and everything associated with that. Now it's running rough and the check engine light is on. Am I going to die?
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Apr 27, 2009 06:17
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GWBBQ posted:You probably need new plugs. I just replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor cap in November. I'll pull them later and take a look at them.
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Apr 27, 2009 16:29
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ph4lcon posted:I just replaced the plugs, wires, and distributor cap in November. I'll pull them later and take a look at them. From what I've read, you usually need to replace plugs after seafoaming.
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Apr 27, 2009 16:33
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Wamsutta posted:From what I've read, you usually need to replace plugs after seafoaming. Roger that. I'll give it a try. Edit: Pulled the plugs and cleaned them. Runs fine now - check engine light is off. Have a picture of a dirty Jeep 
ph4lcon fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Apr 27, 2009 |
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Apr 27, 2009 16:41
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ph4lcon posted:Have a picture of a dirty Jeep Good idea. Sadly it is raining right now and I have no 4x4 to go play with because they forgot to reconnect the transfer case to the lever after putting in my new transmission. 
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Apr 27, 2009 22:02
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incredibull posted:You don't need a code reader to pull the codes anyway. Put the key in, do ON-OFF-ON-OFF-ON with it, and the codes will read out on the odometer. Does this work with all OBD-II systems? All it does on my '99 Cherokee is do a dash test (all the lights light up, gauges peg, odo LED's read 888888 etc). About once a month since I bought it, I get a CEL but it goes away on its own after a day or two. Not knowing much about the previous maintenance history, I figure it's worth the investment to get a simple code reader for easy diagnostics given the plethora of sensors the 4.0 seems to have.
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Apr 27, 2009 22:48
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You should be able to count MIL flashes to read the codes. The procedure to pull codes like that varies with the car but many have them.
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Apr 27, 2009 22:56
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Do any of you recognize this diff locker sticker ? Found this in my glove compartment. I have a Jeep XJ Cherokee with a chrysler 8.25 rear in it. I've never noticed if the rear diff locks or not, but it certainly seems like it doesn't. Also, the underside of this vehicle would have me assume that it has been a driveway queen all it's life. Strange.
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Apr 27, 2009 22:58
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Philip J Fry posted:Does this work with all OBD-II systems? All it does on my '99 Cherokee is do a dash test (all the lights light up, gauges peg, odo LED's read 888888 etc). That's strange because the dash test is supposed to be a separate function. I believe you do the same key sequence while holding the odometer reset down. It's either that or you just turn the key to ON while holding the odometer reset. I've done it in my Wrangler before, but I can't seem to find the info on it now. I was under the impression that the dash logic in the TJ/Cherokee/Grand Cherokee was all of the same, but maybe not. quote:Do any of you recognize this diff locker sticker ? That probably just refers to the Trac-Loc LSD, though it's possible someone installed a "lunchbox" locker, which lock under load and have no external switching engagement mechanism. Though if they did you'd probably know about it by now; simple lunchbox lockers make themselves plainly known when taking turns on pavement, as the inside tire will click, bark and do everything possible to try to force the vehicle out of the turn.
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Apr 27, 2009 23:50
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incredibull posted:I was under the impression that the dash logic in the TJ/Cherokee/Grand Cherokee was all of the same, but maybe not. They started dicking with it in the late 90s and haven't stopped since. Works on some vehicles, doesn't on others, comes and goes across sequential model years... Your idea is sound, Chrysler's production practices not so much. 
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Apr 28, 2009 02:17
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Former/Possible future Jeeper checking in. I had a 91? I think for a week or two this fall, took it on a trade for a different car. It had a few issues, a 4" lift or so, and was pretty fun to drive. It was a $1500 Jeep though... Now I'm looking for a do it all daily driver. Right now I have a VW GTI VR6. I'm planning on selling that and I will probably get ~8500-9500 for it. Now... I don't know if it is even possible to find a non-insanely modified Cherokee for that price. I'm seeing very nice ones from 97-2001 (the only years I'm interested in - actually most like would want 2000 or 2001). However, I'm looking to purchase either a Vespa/Buddy 150 or smaller Honda CB to use in nice weather for solo trips, and a repair reserve and/or savings account boost would not bother me. So I'll say my budget is probably ~5000-6000 depending on what I'd be getting if I spent the extra. I come to you to ask if a Cherokee will work for my mission profile: -Commuting, including several times a year in snow (I'm a teacher and am out before the plows even when it isn't a snow day). -Trips into the mountains for skiing, snowshoeing, cycling, camping -Cross-country interstate trips (at least from CO to IA and back once a year) -The ability to carry two bikes with ease -The ability to pull a U-Haul trailer for moving, or for pulling a U-Haul autohauler with a car on it (not super long distances, and not regularly). -Some off-roading in and of itself, but also associated and necessary for aforementioned camping, biking, etc. In a sense I want to have a very mild "expedition rig" that can carry a lot of stuff, people, supplies, be able to avoid getting stuck anywhere (although realistically rock crawling big boulders isn't required to "get somewhere" so that would not be the goal - I'm worried more about deep snow / mud), and if I go get stuck, be able to self-recover (eventually I would put on a winch and at least a rear locker, depending on how much I find myself pushing my comfort off-road). These aren't something I'd be using all the time by any means, just for peace of mind. Can it take care of my needs? I don't think I would go with more than some mildy larger/more aggressive tires and a small-medium lift. Possibly front and rear bumpers and a rear tire carrier. Expedition rack. Additional lighting. It will probably be an automatic because I find it easier off-road, and a manual in a truck doesn't really make for any excitement for me on-road. Are these vehicles easy to work on at home? Parts inexpensive? These are big as my GTI is difficult to get to anything, and parts are pricey and it is very easy to get the wrong parts from anyone but the dealer. Tell me what you think. I'm thinking something like this: 2000 Cherokee 99k miles FYI I am/was also considering a Subaru Outback (less so because they are more money and frankly I know cannot complete all of the needs listed above), and a FJ80, but an LC would be older, more miles, and still pricier.
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May 2, 2009 13:43
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Maybe you shouldn't have gotten rid of your big beast Cherokee. I haven't owned a Cherokee so I can't chime in on most of that stuff. But Cherokees only weigh like 3200lbs(?) so finding a Uhaul car hauler might be tough. Last time I looked into Uhaul car haulers, you needed at least 3500lbs tow vehicle and it has to weigh more than 80% of your trailer+stuff being towed. I don't know how much you can fudge because you have to get the trailer in person.
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May 2, 2009 14:16
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Maybe you shouldn't have gotten rid of your big beast Cherokee. Haha. Yeah, except pulling a trailer with that could probably result in one of the following with 100% certainty, probably more than one: 1. Ripping ball off of the bumper 2. Ripping bumper off of the frame 3. Destroying magical unobtanium transfer case that cost more than 3x what the truck was worth. 4. Breaking rusty frame in the middle and grinding to a stop at the edge of a cliff I was thinking it might be a problem for towing. That is the least important one by far. Its not like I buy THAT many cars that don't run/drive, and those that do I can always rent the U-Haul truck to pull it with. I know I looked into towing a (pretty light) Nissan Patrol with my gf's parents' Grand Cherokee and it was a no-go. I should have included the things I would more likely tow: sailboat, U-Haul box trailer (thinking about making a run to IKEA in Draper, Utah this summer after I buy whatever I buy. About 400miles one way over the mountains. Would like to be able to buy enough stuff to outfit a 750sq ft apartment, so a 8x12 or something UHaul would be *nice*, not to mention filling the rear of the Jeep with flatpack and various accessories.
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May 2, 2009 14:33
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Disciple of Pain posted:Haha. Yeah, except pulling a trailer with that could probably result in one of the following with 100% certainty, probably more than one: It's a Jeep thing. What transfer case did you have? Quadratrac? I wouldn't be too worried about towing that kind of stuff if you know how to tow. They are rated up to 5000lbs with the right hitch. Same as my Explorer I think, except Uhaul won't rent me poo poo because I will flip over and die. I don't know if Cherokees have bumper hitches, but I see a lot with Class 2s.
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May 2, 2009 14:53
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:It's a Jeep thing. What transfer case did you have? Quadratrac? Yeah, it was the full time AWD xfer with a low range unit. When I sold it I was thinking the chains were slipping, which meant it would die soon and leave me with a tow-away really only worth scrap. Actually I was about 90% sure the sound I was hearing was the balance weight on the driveshaft hitting the ghetto dual exhaust. Yeah I know how to tow. I used to push my 07 Tacoma to the limits, mostly because my boss's 1 ton Dodge dually want a piece of poo poo. I towed that thing like 45 miles with a strap, and then again on a sketch rear end dolly design for military vehicles. I've towed sailboats with it, probably 15 different cars ranging from VW bus (can't see poo poo out the back), to 53 Ford (heavy as poo poo), to 63 Fairlane (hung off the back of the autohauler by like 8 feet). I know I would avoid that kind of nonsense in the Cherokee, I'd much rather use a Uhaul POS anyway. If I get one and it comes with a bumper hitch or no hitch I'll be putting on a class 2. I think the Tacoma was technically a borderline Class IV, it was mounted all the way up the frame on several points - even up past the front of the bed. The truck was amazing in that a fully loaded trailer would cause the front and rear to sag almost the same, no "nose-high" situation, ever. Somebody school me on the differences between SE, Sport, Classic, Limited. A link will work, I've found a couple that list the differences, but (specifically for 97+), are there any big advantages/drawbacks to one over the other. All I really need are power windows, AT, power locks. I'd prefer fabric seats as I really like the rugged fabric in the Cherokees.
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May 2, 2009 15:14
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Disciple of Pain posted:Somebody school me on the differences between SE, Sport, Classic, Limited. A link will work, I've found a couple that list the differences, but (specifically for 97+), are there any big advantages/drawbacks to one over the other. All I really need are power windows, AT, power locks. I'd prefer fabric seats as I really like the rugged fabric in the Cherokees. Sport: Carpet, cloth seats, etc. '97-'98 had black plastic trim (door trim, fender flares, fascia/grill, license plate bezel, black bumpers. '99+ made all body color apart from the door trim. I'm inclined to say that the 4.0L was standard on '97+, but it definitely was for '01. On this and higher models, 242 (Selec-Trac) was optional, as was ABS (which used the Dana 35 rear instead of the 8.25). Probably 95% are 4.0L/AW4/231/8.25, and the Sport made up probably 75% of production for '97+. Classic: I think this ran '97-'98 and was a carryover from '95-'96 - basically just an intermediary appearance package between Sport and Limited that used the body-color exterior trim of the Limited. Fabric seats standard, leather optional. 4.0L standard. Limited: All trim aside from door handles was body-color. Power windows standard, power leather seats, fake-rear end wood trim, etc. 4.0L standard. A good percentage are 4.0L/AW4/242 with ABS/D35. So if you're looking for a 4.0L, automatic, part-time 4WD model, you're fine with any of them. Any model higher than the SE is just an appearance package with more standard/available niceties; there isn't a fundamental mechanical difference involved. That said, there ARE some weird-rear end hybrids out there. Cherokee production was a little odd - I've got a non-police-package '01 that ended up with PP wiring and alternator (thanks, last week of production), and the '97 models had quite a few oddballs due to the freshening and abundance of parts. OneOverZero fucked around with this message at 16:37 on May 2, 2009 |
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May 2, 2009 16:34
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incredibull posted:That's strange because the dash test is supposed to be a separate function. I believe you do the same key sequence while holding the odometer reset down. It's either that or you just turn the key to ON while holding the odometer reset. I've done it in my Wrangler before, but I can't seem to find the info on it now. I was under the impression that the dash logic in the TJ/Cherokee/Grand Cherokee was all of the same, but maybe not. Yeah, I tried that and every other sequence and method I knew of to try and get the codes from the drat thing. I found a decent Cen-Tech scanner on ebay for $40 (the one that's usually $100+ at stores), so that should help expedite and pinpoint future diagnostics.
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May 2, 2009 22:34
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Can anyone give me a ballpark estimate for the cost of rebuilding the engine of an 88 Cherokee?
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May 4, 2009 02:04
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yaffle posted:Can anyone give me a ballpark estimate for the cost of rebuilding the engine of an 88 Cherokee? Considering the 4.0 is immortal, that information really isn't something that can be known... (why not just drop in a junkyard longblock, or even better - rebuild it yourself for a couple hundred bucks.)
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May 4, 2009 03:26
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yaffle posted:Can anyone give me a ballpark estimate for the cost of rebuilding the engine of an 88 Cherokee? Just slap in another 4.0 from a donor vehicle. Hit up craigslist in your area. Should find a nice 4.0 for less than rebuilding and dicking around with your dead one.  Any one from 87 to 89 will work for ya. Unless your XJ is in great shape, then maybe shelling out the $$$ to rebuild it is worth it.Whats wrong with it?
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May 4, 2009 04:07
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Annoying Jeep Problem 02 Wrangler Sport(4.0L, 5sp) After/during rainstorms I can't get my Jeep to start without jumping it. It doesn't start very easily even when being jumped(have to give it some gas) and wont idle(have to leave foot on gas or it dies) for a minute or two. After I jump it and while I'm driving it the voltage gauge(normally doesn't move) waves above and below the 14 volts line. The headlights perceptibly brighten and dim as it's doing so. I have some corrosion/buildup on the battery cables. Occasionally, if I just wiggle the battery terminals I can get it to start but not always. It will look like the battery is outputting a normal amount of power(lights/radio work) but as soon as I turn the key everything shuts off. When this happens I can hear an odd buzzing sound from the fuse box underneath the hood. Edit: Forgot three things: 1) Doesn't have any problems at all when it isn't wet. 2) Will occasionally have the "Check Gauges" light come on if I jump it, but only after driving for a little while. 3) After jumping: While driving at low speeds(parking lots, reversing etc) it will occasionally stall out. Under normal operating conditions doing approximately the same thing it's fine. vains fucked around with this message at 08:42 on May 8, 2009 |
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May 8, 2009 08:35
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Veins McGee posted:I have some corrosion/buildup on the battery cables. Well... Don't you think you should do something about this? That sounds like it could easily be the problem, especially if you say you're sometimes able to get it to start by wiggling them - you're not supposed to be able to wiggle them at all. Disconnect the cables, clean them thoroughly - you can pick up a very handy battery terminal cleaner for a couple bucks at any auto store. Then reassemble with dielectric grease on the battery terminals (vaseline works), and your problem will probably be gone. Oh and make sure you get the cable clamps tight enough so that you can't wiggle them, but not so tight that you destroy the soft metal.
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May 8, 2009 16:23
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incredibull posted:Well... Don't you think you should do something about this? That sounds like it could easily be the problem, especially if you say you're sometimes able to get it to start by wiggling them - you're not supposed to be able to wiggle them at all. That's what I thought. I solved the problem until this weekend by hitting the terminal with a deadblow mallet. I just thought it was strange that it only happened when it was wet or raining outside.
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May 8, 2009 20:36
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This is one of those cases where 3 minutes and a wire brush might work better than a hammer. Ok merry men, I am in need of some suggestions. My XJ has a Chrysler 8.25 in it. I like this rear, it's basically as strong as a D44, but it's already in my jeep. However, this one was factory installed with trak-lok limited slip type differential. I want to run 35" tires, with aussie lockers front and rear, and 4.88:1 gears. With the C8.25, I can only go up to 4.55 gearing, and it has c-clips for the axles. Before I start modding, should I instead just get a factory D44 and build that up with the gears, and swap it in during the lift and tire install ? The C8.25 I will have to swap carriers to put in the aussie locker anyways (you need an open carrier). It was also be easier to do the gear/locker install with the D44 out of the jeep. If I stick with the C8.25, I can only go up to 4.55 gears, and I'll have to deal with c-clips, which would suck if I snap an axle on the trail. I will be keeping the D30 in the front, and probably upgrade to yukon shafts. It sounds like I've already talked myself into the D44 swap, but I'd like some opinions incase I am missing something.
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May 8, 2009 23:59
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Lots of options here... I have a hard time believing that you'd be able to tell the difference between 4.56 and 4.88 that easily, but Nitro Gear does make a 4.88 R&P for the 8.25: http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=22_33_103&products_id=2684&zenid=500f22d2b78a245e5f9b6a035ec4efcb Or you could go to a Ford 8.8 which is a C-clip axle, but is stronger both at the R&P and at the axle shafts than a D44 in stock form, and also has aftermarket ratios available up to 6.14. Plus, I believe disc brake 8.8s have a much larger disc than the disc D44, and if you get your 8.8 from an Explorer instead of a Ranger, it will already have 31-spline shafts in stock form, as well as thicker tubes - you'll just have to have the leaf perches relocated. If you want to grab a stock axle and go with minimal work and cost, I actually think you could do very well with a D44 in 4.10, throw in a locker, and regear the front to match. This is a better setup for 33s, but with 35s it wouldn't be awful, just not all that great. incredibull fucked around with this message at 01:37 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 01:35
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Apologies for the stupid text, I found this on the Fail blog. Luckiest Jeep driver in the entire world, right there. 
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May 11, 2009 04:29
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I wouldn't go so far as to call him lucky...he did sustain some injury, just not to his happy sack. Click here for the full 1024x768 image.
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May 11, 2009 09:08
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My LJ got a much needed bath yesterday. I think it's so drat pretty. Something about the doors off and the top on that makes it look tough as hell. So, I installed my new stereo and speakers last week. I did insignia 6.5s in the pods above my head and some 5.25 pioneers in the front. Overall, it's better than stock, but I'm not impressed. The CD player is great, it's much better than the stock one. Is there anything out there that has a little bass in it that we can add in place of the pods? I have heard some various soundbars and they pretty much suck. I have a sub that I can put in, but I leave the top off or doors off so much I really want something that will be harder to steal. Does anyone have a link to some decent options to consider without breaking the bank? I have considered buying the plastic box that goes into the center console, but I've heard it's just as lovely with that 6.5 in it. I'm used to having some decent sound (always had imports before) and that's the only thing that I hate about my jeep. What setups do you have, recommend?  
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May 11, 2009 15:04
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Philip J Fry posted:I wouldn't go so far as to call him lucky...he did sustain some injury, just not to his happy sack. That's a huge relief. Seeing the tree penetration picture really made me cringe.
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May 11, 2009 15:28
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benzero posted:
Buy a JK?  Actually, I don't have any advice for you. My TJ had a lovely stereo which I finally just got used to. I didn't want to put any money into the stereo due to the fact I kept the doors and top off half of the year. Once I traded it in for my JK I'd forgotten how much I missed being able to listen to music in my Jeep! Also, being able to hear the stereo at 70 MPH is awesome. Although, don't the TJ Rubicons come with a center console sub? Try one from a pick and pull?
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May 11, 2009 18:12
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Braincloud posted:Buy a JK? Hahaha, no way man. I love the capability of the JK, but drat, you've got some ugly fenders on those things! And who needs 70 mph anyway.... Yeah, they actually did, I have been thinking about doing that, but they come wiht a 6.5" sub and only like a 75w amp. It might not be worth the trouble. I may look into just bolting in the sub that I have.
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May 11, 2009 21:11
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The factory stereo in my LJ is just fine. I ride around a lot with the sunrider and rear window open and I think that's possibly the noisiest combination possible. I'm used to the supertop on my old YJ I could put it down in less than 5 minutes and have it up an a little over that. This factory LJ top is a goddamn motherfucker alone. I think if i rig up a "pull string" in the middle of the header I should be able to pull that whole loving thing forward. I DO love hos you just velcro those long rear end side windows in place while you gently caress with the zippers, that's AWESOME. I imagine I'll get my time down, but goddamn by yourself that top is a goddamn motherfucker.....or am I just crazy? Replacement option for factory sub. I saved this cause this is what I'll do if/when the time comes. http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=579589&highlight=removing+center+console
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May 11, 2009 23:55
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Yeah it takes quite a few times before it quits being a pain in the rear end every time. If you don't already, just remember to keep the zippers lubed. I use a bit of Sylglide across the entire length of each zipper.
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May 12, 2009 02:50
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incredibull posted:Yeah it takes quite a few times before it quits being a pain in the rear end every time. wheres this now? I got some that are a bitch already.
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May 12, 2009 03:55
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