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Pompous Rhombus posted:I'm looking at a Bronica SQ-Ai w/ speedgrip, ME (metered) prism with some chipping paint, 80mm f/2.8, and a pair of 120 backs for $450 ($260 of it will be a Canon 50mm f/1.4 that I never use). It seems like a pretty okay deal, right? Sounds like a heck of a deal to me. I'd jump on it. Chipping paint is nothing. Besides, if it ever gets so bad that function is affected, you can always replace the prism. I'm starting to experiment more with ISO 100 films. Ilford Delta 100 with Xtol is a delicious combination:  I also got my T-Max 100 and Ektar 100 in from Henry's the other day. I'm going to go grab some medium format for my Rolleiflex on the weekend and run that through. I already ran a test roll of Tri-X 400 through it, just taking mediocre photos around the house. It looks awesome and 100 film can only be better.
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May 1, 2009 17:32
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Too many cameras already? Yep. But I couldn't pass up a Asahi Pentax K1000 for $5.
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May 3, 2009 07:27
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Gnomad posted:Too many cameras already? Yep. Hell of a deal. Can't lose at that price. So I've shot two or three shows with Delta 3200 and I must say that I'm a tad disappointed. While it's cool to be shooting at ISO 6400, the grain is awful and I find that I'm hitting a wall. As long as you have a fast enough lens to get decent shutter speeds (1/125 to 1/250) at 3200, there's no point in going to 6400 because in a concert situation, you can only expose so much before you blow out highlights, which in a concert usually means the performers' faces. Overall, I'd say that on a bang-for-the-buck basis, Ilford HP5+ gives the best results. Better grain than Delta 3200 at 3200, better contrast and cheaper per roll. Arista Premium 400/Tri-X 400 kind of hits the wall at 1600 but HP5+ does 3200 nicely. If you want to get into concert photography for cheap, it would be hard to beat a used Canon film EOS, the 50mm f/1.8 and a few rolls of HP5+. Put it in aperture priority at ISO 3200 and you'll be pulling off better photos than a 50D in black and white mode because the film grain looks worlds better than digital grain. Likewise, if you want a compact point and shoot for low light and concerts, get something like an Olympus Stylus Epic or something similar with an f/2.8 lens, modify the DX code on your HP5+ case to read 3200 and go to town. Better results than any digital point and shoot. Latest show shoot on film from Friday: http://www.flickr.com/photos/31391300@N04/sets/72157617625193140/ HPL fucked around with this message at 20:00 on May 3, 2009 |
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May 3, 2009 19:58
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HPL posted:If you want to get into concert photography for cheap, it would be hard to beat a used Canon film EOS, the 50mm f/1.8 and a few rolls of HP5+. Put it in aperture priority at ISO 3200 and you'll be pulling off better photos than a 50D in black and white mode because the film grain looks worlds better than digital grain. Speaking of this, I've got a Rebel 2000 (w/ a pretty slow 35-80 zoom) for sale in the SA-Mart gear thread. Also listed my old man's Minolta X700 w/ 50mm f/1.7, 45mm f/2 pancake, 2X TC and a few other random bits. I just got my Olympus XA back from servicing, had the tech recalibrate the meter to read a stop fast. Now I can finally use ASA 1600 film with that nice 35mm f/2.8 lens and compact body! Running a test roll through it this week.
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May 3, 2009 20:33
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 I used Lucky film and it turned my daughter asian! Well, that was my first thought when I saw the result, the wire said the same thing. This one and the others in the series came out horribly overexposed due to the lack of manual control in a Minolta QTsi, my main light were Vivitar 283's with homebrewed reflectors triggered optically from the QTsi's flash. I liked the effect anyway. Same roll of film, taken at the local bike blessing event in Anchorage. Biker/Street Preacher.  http://www.fotothing.com/photos/04b/04bbd84387d07e8ede5bb4dc90cc2819_b23.jpg Gathered around the flagpole. These all were taken using a Sony A200 18-70 kit lens, on a film camera, vignetting sets in at 25mm or so.  http://www.fotothing.com/photos/bef/befca164344cebf16ab9028429fbc321_b23.jpg Street scene.  http://www.fotothing.com/photos/0bc/0bc3ccc958e9ad32944ec1abe7596ecf_b23.jpg This is waht happens when you out a crop sensor lens on a film camera and go to the widest end of the zoom. I think it get dark near the corners.  This was my fist roll of the brick of Lucky SHD100 I got, it has the typical Chinese film curl and the base is thinner than Kodak or Ilford, which makes winding 36 exposures on the reel challenging, I did lose a couple of frames on this roll. D76 1+1, 9 minutes at 70º, water stop bath and 5 minutes in the fix.
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May 4, 2009 02:00
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I'm about to buy some B&W paper for a portrait project (of my Dad, an older guy with slightly tan skin). I'm leaning towards warm tone paper (Ilford multigrade RC) but I've never used toned paper before. I won't be using any special developers or toning the prints. I've found some examples on flickr, but I'd like to hear any other thoughts on paper choice for a project of this sort (glossy / matte, brand, etc.)
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May 4, 2009 19:43
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I took the Rolleiflex out and shot some nature photos on Acros 100 and developed it in Xtol. God loving drat I love this camera and film combo. The photos came out so clear and rich-looking even with the supposedly "inferior" Tessar lens. I'd love to get one with a wider angle lens (something around 28mm in 35mm terms) but I guess I'll have to save up for that. Shot a roll of 35mm Ektar 100 while I was at it. Should be getting it back this afternoon. Will posts samples of both the Acros and Ektar. Also, what's the word on Arista Legacy Pro? I love the idea of having Acros 100 in bulk 35mm and this seems to be the only way to get it.
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May 4, 2009 20:54
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Oh boy. After only having an APS-C sized viewfinder for so long, finally looking through a real one was a bit of a shock. $10 gets you a pretty sweet camera I gotta say. Gonna put a roll through it tonight.
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May 5, 2009 00:57
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Managed to get my Canonet open and tried to fix the light meter. Alas, all it'll meter at is 800. Looks like I need to pull off the leatherette or something and I'm very, very reluctant to do that. Oh well. On the other hand, I gave the rangefinder a bit of a clean and it's a huge leap forward. If you have a Canonet, I'd recommend the cleaning. It's pretty easy to get in there. Three screws, the flippy film winding thingy, the washer holding the film advance lever down and that's it, you're in. Photos from yesterday: One from the Rollei on Acros 100:  And one on Ektar 100 with my Tokina 11-16 at 16mm just to see how a crop lens would work on my 35mm. For reference, you can see the chain link fency thing here on the left side of the previous photo:  Rest of set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/31391300@N04/sets/72157617708600158/
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May 5, 2009 05:01
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Cryhavoc posted:Oh boy. After only having an APS-C sized viewfinder for so long, finally looking through a real one was a bit of a shock. I had that same reaction, since I got in to photography primarily through digital. It was like going from looking out a door at the end of a hallway to a window right in front of you. Guess we're kinda preaching to the choir here though :p HPL posted:Managed to get my Canonet open and tried to fix the light meter. Alas, all it'll meter at is 800. Looks like I need to pull off the leatherette or something and I'm very, very reluctant to do that. Oh well. On the other hand, I gave the rangefinder a bit of a clean and it's a huge leap forward. If you have a Canonet, I'd recommend the cleaning. It's pretty easy to get in there. Three screws, the flippy film winding thingy, the washer holding the film advance lever down and that's it, you're in. Cleaning the RF won't knock it out of whack? I've always been afraid to do much with mine because of that. You should take a chance on the leatherette, if only as an excuse to drop one of these bad boys on http://www.cameraleather.com/canonet/  Edit: Question about my XA (the original). I had two of them, and noticed one of the rangefinders had a purplish tint (and was easier to use) while another was yellow. Old purple died of some random shutter malady that the Oly tech couldn't fix, so I'm now left with the yellow one. Focusing is a lot harder... I've heard some people use a sharpie and put a dot in the middle of the RF window to increase the contrast, is this a bad idea? Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 13:21 on May 5, 2009 |
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May 5, 2009 13:18
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Cleaning the RF won't knock it out of whack? I've always been afraid to do much with mine because of that. You take a Q-Tip with rubbing alcohol and wipe the glass surfaces gently. You don't sit there and scrub away for an hour. Most of the "fog" in the rangefinder is fine dust or some other similar light debris. For that matter, on mine it was mostly on the inside surface of the glass in the upper camera lid, not the actual rangefinder. When you take the top off of the camera, look through the bare rangefinder and you'll be like: "Holy poo poo, I can't believe this is the same camera!" The rangefinder was clear but the protective glass was dirty.
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May 5, 2009 16:28
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I picked up a Polaroid Land Camera from the 60s last night. I managed to DIY a replacement for its difficult to find battery using three triple As, aluminum foil, tape and a rubber band. I'm heading out now to pick up some pack film (Fuji's FP-100B and FP-100C are surprisingly affordable in comparison to what the polaroid integral films used to sell for when they were in production). I'm excited.
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May 5, 2009 21:56
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I bought my first ever camera today (bigger is better right?) and a roll of Kodak film. I haven't figured out where to plug the film in yet (like a little slot for a tube or something??) but for now it's an awful lot of fun looking through the little TV in the back. 
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May 5, 2009 22:26
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Twenties Superstar posted:I bought my first ever camera today (bigger is better right?) and a roll of Kodak film. I haven't figured out where to plug the film in yet (like a little slot for a tube or something??) but for now it's an awful lot of fun looking through the little TV in the back. That's got to be a large format camera, of which I'm totally unfamiliar with. You didn't buy 35mm film, did you? Because that won't fit in there, large format film is big enough to not be denoted by millimeters, but by inches. Still an absolutely awesome purchase though and once you find the right film, I'm sure you'd be happy with it.
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May 5, 2009 22:52
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Twenties Superstar posted:I bought my first ever camera today (bigger is better right?) and a roll of Kodak film. I haven't figured out where to plug the film in yet (like a little slot for a tube or something??) but for now it's an awful lot of fun looking through the little TV in the back. Awesome! I got a chance to go large-format for the first time last week and it was a blast. Make sure you're using film sheets (they can be had pretty cheaply at Freestylephoto or B&H) and film holders. Judging from the pictures it's a 4x5, right?
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May 5, 2009 23:56
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Ok so I have my Arista Premium (the rebranded tri-x stuff), Ilford LC-29 and Ilford Rapid fixer. I don't need stop bath or any film washer stuff, right? So I mix up the required amount of developer each time and just use that once, then do the water stop bath thing, then make up a batch of fixer (which i can store and reuse?) then rinse? Sorry for the dumb questions 
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May 6, 2009 03:38
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Twenties Superstar posted:I bought my first ever camera today (bigger is better right?) and a roll of Kodak film. I haven't figured out where to plug the film in yet (like a little slot for a tube or something??) but for now it's an awful lot of fun looking through the little TV in the back. Trolling the film thread really is low
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May 6, 2009 03:45
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Cryhavoc posted:Ok so I have my Arista Premium (the rebranded tri-x stuff), Ilford LC-29 and Ilford Rapid fixer. I don't need stop bath or any film washer stuff, right? Stop: can be reused. Fix: can be reused (well, should). After the film's fixed you should wash it (just running water will do fine) before you hang it to dry.
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May 6, 2009 03:48
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Cryhavoc posted:Ok so I have my Arista Premium (the rebranded tri-x stuff), Ilford LC-29 and Ilford Rapid fixer. I don't need stop bath or any film washer stuff, right? Developer is pretty much use it once and dump it, at least to begin with. Do the water stop bath and the fix can be reused. You'll know when the fix is exhausted if the film isn't clear in the clear areas, if it's still milky the fix is done. That is likely to be many rolls of film down thre road from now. I use a hypo clearing agent since I'm on a septic system here and it's not a great idea to run a lot of water through it this time of year. I also use photo flo, single use, about a drop in a tank full of water. Be confident! You'll do fine.
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May 6, 2009 03:53
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You can re-use developer but it involves more math than I can be bothered with. I find that if you're going to err on the side of overdeveloping or underdeveloping, overdevelop if it's a dark scene and underdevelop if it's a bright one. And don't over-agitate. I did that when I started out and overdeveloped everything.
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May 6, 2009 03:58
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Oh boy! I really want to finish this roll tonight and try this developing biz. How long do I stop and rinse for?
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May 6, 2009 04:36
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Cryhavoc posted:Oh boy! I really want to finish this roll tonight and try this developing biz. Stop is pretty much just fill the tank, swish it around for about 30 seconds and pour back out. As for rinsing, I use the Ilford method, detailed in their very helpful PDF. It boils down to filling the tank with water/inverting 20 times, emptying, and repeating a few times.
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May 6, 2009 04:41
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The thing to remember is that it's just film. It's not like when I was learning to reload ammunition and the instructions were filled with stuff like: "DO THIS EXACTLY AS INSTRUCTED OR YOU'LL loving KILL YOURSELF!"
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May 6, 2009 05:32
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I have a paralyzing fear I'll mess up and somehow end up drinking a measuring cylinder of developer.
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May 6, 2009 05:36
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Cryhavoc posted:I have a paralyzing fear I'll mess up and somehow end up drinking a measuring cylinder of developer. Bah. It's mostly water anyway.
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May 6, 2009 05:38
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Well, my Diafine is blue and yellow, and it does smell like cotton candy...
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May 6, 2009 05:41
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Lambster Bisque posted:Trolling the film thread really is low There is a fine line between trolling and a joke.  I bought that camera though and in place of an actual darkroom for loading the film holder I used a blanket and a furnace room hopefully I didn't just waste $30 on film by not being careful. That is a secret tip for the photography elite. Twenties Superstar fucked around with this message at 12:04 on May 6, 2009 |
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May 6, 2009 12:01
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Changing bags are cheap.
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May 6, 2009 20:20
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Twenties Superstar posted:There is a fine line between trolling and a joke. That's cool, are you new to LF? I was taking a look at 4x5 rigs last week right before I decided to go with a Bronica instead, interested to hear your impressions after you get some film back. I figure if the Bronica doesn't do it for me, I can always sell it and try out LF. General question for anyone: do Speed Graphics sacrifice anything in IQ for their portability, or should they be able to put out comparable results if used on a tripod like a more conventional 4x5? Another thing: I was looking for a WLF for my SQAi, and holy poo poo do they seem overpriced for what they are. Am I being a stupid baby, or is there something to this?
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May 6, 2009 20:38
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dunno posted:I picked up a Polaroid Land Camera from the 60s last night...  my first exposure looked like this:  I need to work on my pack-film pull a bit, but I'm pretty happy that it works and there is still new film being produced for it.
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May 6, 2009 22:49
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Does a relatively cheap panoramic film camera exist, or are they all upwards of $4,000?
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May 7, 2009 00:02
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Take a look at Horizon cameras. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horizon_(camera)
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May 7, 2009 00:26
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:Does a relatively cheap panoramic film camera exist, or are they all upwards of $4,000? KEH has BGN Xpan + 45mm for "only" $1500, but yeah, Horizon is probably your best bet. I've seen 202's go for $170-$200ish secondhand, although they don't come up super-often. Here's one on eBay you could try for.
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May 7, 2009 01:09
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Twenties Superstar posted:There is a fine line between trolling and a joke. Oh you actually own the camera? Well that's awesome then. I wish I could afford LF
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May 7, 2009 01:55
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Lambster Bisque posted:Oh you actually own the camera? Well that's awesome then. I wish I could afford LF You can find deals out there from time to time. I got essentially the same camera he has (Calumet 4x5) on ebay for $80. All it needed was film holder(s), a lens, and a lens board. Ended up reselling it locally for $80 because I didn't have time to get into it. So have hope!
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May 7, 2009 02:31
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I just picked up a roll of 120 from the bookstore's photo dept. It took two weeks and cost me $4.50 (as opposed to before: 15min, $1.50) because they now send out all their film instead of doing it in-house. I'm starting to consider processing my own C-41. The good news is, it appears the expired Portra 800 I bought is fine. 
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May 7, 2009 02:38
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Pompous Rhombus posted:
Any WLF I've ever found for my ETRC costs more than the whole camera setup to begin with. I about ready to just hack one up for spite. 4 pieces of blackend metal and loupe for focusing. If I do this, I'll take pictures.
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May 7, 2009 03:27
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Reichstag posted:I just picked up a roll of 120 from the bookstore's photo dept. It took two weeks and cost me $4.50 (as opposed to before: 15min, $1.50) because they now send out all their film instead of doing it in-house. I'm starting to consider processing my own C-41. Learn to do your own black and white. It's simple. You can process it in your bathroom in well under an hour. You'll be able to shoot like a fiend once you learn how. If you have any questions or concerns, ask away. That's why we're here. You can see a 120 photo I processed myself about halfway up this page.
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May 7, 2009 03:57
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HPL posted:Learn to do your own black and white. It's simple. You can process it in your bathroom in well under an hour. You'll be able to shoot like a fiend once you learn how. I think he's fine bro.
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May 7, 2009 04:00
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I've been processing my own B/W (35mm and 120) for about a year and a half now.  C-41 processing isn't that much different, but it requires much tighter control of temperature and time, and the chemicals are more toxic.
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May 7, 2009 04:03
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