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dayman posted:read the description on kbb and i can pretty much tell you that almost no 2002 subaru meets those criteria if it's been driven. I bought my 02 with 55k on it for $9000, 1 51 year old owner. You've seen the condition that it's in, I would definitely consider it "excellent." And I do drive the hell out of it 
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May 7, 2009 00:56
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TurboLuvah posted:I bought my 02 with 55k on it for $9000, 1 51 year old owner. You've seen the condition that it's in, I would definitely consider it "excellent." And I do drive the hell out of it you're the exception. I have no idea why your paint is still good.
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May 7, 2009 02:02
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Well, I've decided to go with the wagon. It's more practical for me. I found an 03 nearby in completely immaculate condition with less than 50k miles on it. I expect to have a new WRX in about a week.
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May 7, 2009 05:26
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08 STI owner here, not only do I have the paint chipping issue beginning (Red paint) @ 7500 miles, despite putting a bigger-than-factory piece of 3m Chipguard, but I have the whole front end of the car, mirrors, door cup handles, etc all covered in 3m. (I got the hookup on it, $295 for the full package since I was working for the dealer at the time and I sold lots of chipguard/sunroofs/navs etc for the company that installs it..) Guess what that did? No rock chips on those areas, but rock chips just slightly after the film ends. loving Subaru paint.
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May 7, 2009 23:01
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How bad is the 4 speed auto on the 05/06 9-2x/WRX? My 96 Cavalier is almost dead and I've been looking at a used 9-2x Aero. There is a fully loaded, used 05 Aero with a manual by me, but I don't have the dough saved up to buy it just yet. If I can't get one with a stick by me; there is a fully loaded, used 06 Aero that has also caught my eye, but it has the auto trans. and the only reason I haven driven it myself is it's in Iowa (I'm in the southern burbs of Chicago). Obviously the auto won't beat a stick, but is it as bad as the 4 speed on my shitbox?
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May 8, 2009 01:14
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It won't be as bad as an automatic Cavalier...but let's just say that the automatic should never have been sold in the 9-2x/WRX. It just makes the car that much less fun.
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May 8, 2009 01:29
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When I bought my Aero the only demo car they had was an auto, which I drove to get an idea of the rest of the car, and it wasn't a patch on the manual. The turbolag is exacerbated by the slushbox, I'd wait and get the manual if I were you. Of course, this is AI so you're probably going to ignore us all and then post in three weeks saying you hate the auto and how hard is it to swap transmissions. 
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May 8, 2009 01:45
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Commodore 64 posted:How bad is the 4 speed auto on the 05/06 9-2x/WRX? There's nothing wrong with teh 4-speed in terms of reliablity. It is just that it isn't the best driving automatic on earth (in fact, it is below average in that respect).
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May 8, 2009 03:25
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Nah, my next step will be to expand my search and start thread called "RECOMMEND ME A CAR AI".  Confession time, but I've driven automatics all my life and now I want to drive something fun (especially after over 4 years in that penalty box). The only slushbox I can even describe as enjoyable is the DSG in the GTI. I'm not worried about reliability of the manual (doesn't help if the previous owner did 6k clutch dumps in the BK parking lot).
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May 8, 2009 03:34
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Commodore 64 posted:Nah, my next step will be to expand my search and start thread called "RECOMMEND ME A CAR AI". An auto isn't bad in a 2.5L Turbo, but I wouldn't recommend it on the 2.0L turbo. It's also not bad on the 2.5L N/A, but that's a totally different experience. I drive a 08 Legacy 2.5GT with the 5 speed auto. Plenty of people bitch about it, plenty of people are upset you lose some power. I actually think it's a pretty nice transmission, I enjoy it quite a lot. It is quite a bit different than the 4EAT though. I, too, have driven autos all my life and have never picked up a manual. I may for my next car just to kind of have done it in my life. That said, the auto is fun even on the track to me.
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May 8, 2009 03:43
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What do you guys pay on insurance on these things? Allstate is the cheapest I can find at 202 bucks a month (I'm 19 and have been driving for less than a year) with 1,000 dollar deductibles on collision and comprehensive, and I'm not going to drop 10k on a car without comprehensive and collision.
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May 8, 2009 03:51
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So I've come to the conclusion that i'm going to go ahead and build a new EJ257 for my 02' WRX, When looking for a turbo I came across this site on NASIOC that lists new in-box VF48's for 755 shipped. Advice I've gotten so far is to be really glad and grab it up right quick. Are there better options I'm ignoring? I'm wary of Ebay and private sellers as you never know what they did to a part. I've never gone about building an engine like this, I am doing it with a reputable builder in SAC but I'm curious if anyone has any advice before moving forward. I haven't agreed to anything yet.
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May 8, 2009 06:03
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For $750 I would not by a VF48. $400 used, yes. But for $850 you can get the new FP HTA68. Are you putting forged pistons in the 2.5 shortblock? Do you have any specific power goals? How much do you plan to spend? Things off the top of my head you will also want to do if they're not already done: TGV deletes, injectors, fuel pump, up-pipe, downpipe.
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May 8, 2009 06:15
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jamal posted:For $750 I would not by a VF48. $400 used, yes. But for $850 you can get the new FP HTA68. All that is getting done, I'm looking to spend between 5-6 grand, I'm having to get all new forged crank, rods, pistons and oil pump/oil pan from the amount of metal that was shredded in the old engine. All the internals are going to be forged. Right now looking at my cost sheet, we're running at about 5500 with labor and parts including the turbo costing 800 bucks. I'm eyeballing a complete new turboback exhaust system, I'd be willing to push into 6500 since we're doing this I want to do it right the first time. I'm basically looking to get as much HP as I can out of it for the investment I can put into it without going crazy. I'm generally going to be running it as a daily driver with occasional autocross trips. I figure around ~350awhp is where I'm aiming at but if closer to 400 is just as realistic without pushing the engine to much it may be worthwhile. I figure my mechanic and I will discuss that when tuning time comes. Bob Log fucked around with this message at 06:26 on May 8, 2009 |
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May 8, 2009 06:21
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Sent you a PM.
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May 8, 2009 06:32
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Wait, so are they rebuilding your 2.0, or are you buying a 2.5 shortblock? Because if you're getting a new block all you will need are new pistons. You're also going to need more turbo for that kind of power. An FP HTA green, or an ATP3071 or 3076 are all good turbos that will make 350-380whp on pump gas and 450 on race gas or with meth.
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May 8, 2009 06:36
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I got a deal on a EJ25 core from someone, or at least I think it's a good deal compared to a short block :P We're using the heads from the 2.0 and as many parts as possible but yeah :|
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May 8, 2009 06:38
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Oh okay that makes sense and the pricing is reasonable. A 3" inlet turbo is a good thing to have for the kind of power you would eventually like to make, and that means a new turbo inlet. The APS is the best one, and it will be easiest to have it installed when the motor is assembled. In other news this is at the shop again: 
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May 8, 2009 07:09
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"[ELP posted:"] Make sure you trust that someone, and make sure you trust the shop doing this work.
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May 8, 2009 13:58
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Whoa jamal, is that a real 22B? I didn't realize there were any in North America. Its haunches are so wide. 
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May 8, 2009 15:44
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si posted:Make sure you trust that someone, and make sure you trust the shop doing this work. DBTuned in Sacramento is the shop, they also sourced the core for me, I trust him and I've heard nothing but glowing reviews about him. I also have made it clear that i'm not looking to cut corners to save money but it seems like a good choice since I wanted to get forged parts for all the internals anyway.
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May 8, 2009 17:22
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"[ELP posted:"] Well keep in mind everything is forged on the shortblock except the pistons normally, so it's a $1880ish block and another $400 or so for some pistons to go with it. It's not hard to source a brand new one if there's any question about it.
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May 8, 2009 17:33
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I've currently got a 1995 Subaru Legacy L wagon, manual, with about 110,000 miles on it. I got it back in 2001 and put about 60k on it. Since I purchased it I've done some maintenance on it, mainly relating to hitting the 100k mark: New CV joints / boots Viscous coupler Clutch replacement Timing Belt Headgasket Throwout bearing So, a fair bit of thing, but no major issues with the car. I'm planning on hanging on to it for the next 3-4 years, but I would like to do something about the ride quality. It took a trip down the Alcan two years ago and since then the ride quality has gone straight to hell (to be fair, it was already on the decline). I've been considering replacing the shocks/struts in the hopes of improving the quality of the ride (bouncy -- small bumps are quite noticeable). Has anyone here dealt with a similar problem? What should I be looking for in terms of having a shop do the work?
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May 8, 2009 18:05
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"[ELP posted:"]
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May 8, 2009 18:16
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Decided to get some taillight tint a few weeks ago, and after a runaround actually getting them to deliver it (took over a month), and battling rain and a case of the swine cold, I spent the 45 minutes to put them on today. Before and after; I'm pretty pleased with the results. 
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May 8, 2009 23:21
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Commodore 64 posted:How bad is the 4 speed auto on the 05/06 9-2x/WRX? The 4EAT is a pretty reliable transmission (arguably more reliable than the 5MT, actually), but getting an auto in a turbocharged car is usually a very bad idea. It's still going to be decent, speed wise, but not as good as the manual.
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May 9, 2009 00:55
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Seat Safety Switch posted:Whoa jamal, is that a real 22B? I didn't realize there were any in North America. a) No LHD ones were built as far as I know - a few were converted b) This is a real 22b -     It's not *quite* as wide and a few things are different. There is a bodykit that looks like that one. I can still be a 22B - but a dead stocker is worth considerably more than one that's been changed and modified.
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May 9, 2009 01:04
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No, not a 22b. It's an STI swap with HTauto fenders and aerosim WRC bumpers. Also it has a rotated 30R and meth injection to make 450whp. It's stupidly fast. The owner's brother also has a widebody sti-swapped gc, using the full aerosim carbon body kit. What's funny is that Aerosim got 22b fenders and WRC bumpers to make the molds, found the WRC bumpers were wider, and so modified the fenders to match. Here's some more info about the two: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1703485 As far as I know there are two 22bs in north america.
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May 9, 2009 04:48
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I just test drove my first WRX today, and those things can haul rear end. I drove about 1/4 of a mile and was sold. I don't know if I'm going to buy the one I drove today, but I do have one quick question- Is shifting into 1st gear always really mashy, like the mesh is hosed up?
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May 9, 2009 06:35
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The syncros on 1st are not good. I can't even think about going into first while moving without double-clutching.
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May 9, 2009 08:38
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Are you talking about a new or used one? I had syncro problems on a 2003 too and had to work hard to find a dealer who would fix it. Grinding going into first gear at a stop is not normal! Other than that it really isn't the smoothest box but I could manipulate it by rev-matching. edit: As an aside, one of the things I would have liked in that model was tighter gear ratios and / or more power down low. If you're doing something that's lower speed but need to stay in the powerband, it was kind of a pain to go back and forth between first and second, especially since there was such a gap between them. I haven't driven a new 2.5L turbo but I bet I would like that. Kia Soul Enthusias fucked around with this message at 08:44 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 08:40
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CharlesM posted:Are you talking about a new or used one? It was an 02 with 85k on it. It wasn't grinding going into first, and all the other gears felt fine. It's just that going into first didn't feel like I was definitively going into gear, there was no "click". In my 4runner, I put it into first from a stop, and its in first, but with this it was more like pushing it into first gear position with a bit of resistance. Shifting to the other gears wasn't immensely smooth, but it felt like any other short-throw transmission does. If I end up getting it (provided this isn't a major issue), I could always do a transmission rebuild at home this summer when I have access to more tools than the average mechanic can handle. (My dad is a tool whore)
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May 9, 2009 08:49
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Oops I mean that's what specifically happened to mine. I don't remember exactly how going into first felt besides being much more clunky than my Mazda, I'm sure Jamal will know.
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May 9, 2009 09:04
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CharlesM posted:Oops I mean that's what specifically happened to mine. I don't remember exactly how going into first felt besides being much more clunky than my Mazda, I'm sure Jamal will know. EDIT: The first gear thing was from a dead stop, not downshifting while moving. Is this something to be really alarmed of? I don't want to dump 8-10k on a car and then have to drop 2,000 on a transmission rebuild. Other than that I love the car. I used to own an 87 Supra Turbo which rocked, but the WRX blows it out of the water. CanAm fucked around with this message at 09:31 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 09:28
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Yeah it shouldn't grind while you're stopped, and a bad first gear syncro would annoy me pretty quick. We have a customer with a pretty trashed 5-speed, and just driving the thing in and out of the shop bugs me. It's otherwise a really cool wagon though and we're shopping for a 6-speed for the guy. The last swap I did ended up costing the guy a little under $3000 total.
jamal fucked around with this message at 10:03 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 10:00
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jamal posted:Yeah it shouldn't grind while you're stopped, and a bad first gear syncro would annoy me pretty quick. We have a customer with a pretty trashed 5-speed, and just driving the thing in and out of the shop bugs me. It's otherwise a really cool wagon though and we're shopping for a 6-speed for the guy. The last swap I did ended up costing the guy a little under $3000 total. No grinding at all, though. It's more of a rough push into first. It feels nothing like a grind, and there is no audible sound. Kinda hard to explain, but it basically feels like a small bind- It's not perfectly smooth, but there's no kickback, it doesn't fall out of gear, and when I take off, it feels solid. It just basically feels like running a couple smooth stones over each other, just a bit of grainy feeling. I hope that helps. If it checks out (totally clean title, the last owner drove like 8k miles a year on it and I only drive about 10k a year), I'll be picking it up in a couple days. EDIT: Now that I think about it, it simply feels like first gear in my mom's Scion which has a ridiculously short throw. It's rough only on the shifter side of things. CanAm fucked around with this message at 10:20 on May 9, 2009 |
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May 9, 2009 10:13
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oh then I wouldn't worry about it too much.
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May 9, 2009 10:24
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Does anyone know engine / turbo specs of the 07 Spec C?
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May 9, 2009 10:28
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I think it has a twin scroll VF37, and possibly dual avcs. Also a one piece intake manifold, semi-closed deck, forged pistons etc. What specifically did you want to know about it? The manifold is probably the biggest special thing over the regular ver8 sti. On the other hand I'm not really familiar with the non-us models.
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May 9, 2009 10:32
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jamal posted:oh then I wouldn't worry about it too much. One of my buddies is telling me that older used Subarus fail like poo poo as well. Any confirmation to this? I know cars fairly well, and I know how to look for a torn to poo poo car, so the ones I'm checking out look good. I just want a car I can have for 200k or so and be happy.
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May 9, 2009 10:36
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