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Jagtpanther posted:GEMorris, so that big bastard and the metal plane will be my tools of choice for regular planing jobs, right? If I had rough-sawn timber I'd use the middle wooden fore plane to get it relatively smooth enough for the jointer plane to actually do the business? Or is there an intermediate step between getting rough sawn wood off the truck and the first fore plane run-through? Basically it goes like this: Fore/Jack : Coarse, use at first perpendicular to the grain to get down the really high spots, take a pretty heavy cut with this. Towards the end you can start going 45 degrees one direction and then the other. Jointer: Start with this one going 45 degrees to the grain, the goal here is to get the board FLAT (not necessarily smooth). Finish up by taking a few passes with the grain. Smoother: Generally only used with the grain, take a very light cut. The goal here is to clean up any tearout left behind by previous planes. If you have access to a filez source, try to find some woodworking vids.
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May 4, 2009 04:28
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Alright, I know I already asked about this, but I have some more information, so I thought I'd run it by you guys again. Still considering that Jet 10" jointer/planer combo. Goes for $420 new, guy on Craigslist is selling it for $350. The tool in question: http://www.amazon.com/Jet-JJP-10BTOS-10-Inch-Jointer-Planer/dp/B001O0D6OC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1241445662&sr=8-1 I contacted the seller, who reported the following: The fence is poor but planer and face use is great Should I take this to mean that edge jointing is not so hot? Since I would be purchasing this for the jointer portion (already have a planer), I am wondering if I should just play it safe and get a more traditional 6" jointer. The Amazon reviews are still pretty favorable, but I'm just nervous about shelling out for something that might not be any good, I suppose.
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May 4, 2009 15:11
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Thanks again! So after I asked about planing end-grain and such you guys suggested shooting boards. So I was reading up on them and there's just one thing I can't reconcile...  This is the side-on view of a shooting board. The grey piece is some wood I'm planing. The green is the ledge on which the wood sits. As the plane moves towards/away from this viewpoint it planes the grey wood, but doesn't the blade also plane away part or most of the ledge? And if it does, won't it shortly end up cutting at a strange angle (the lighter area?) - or is the squareness of the cut more dependant on the side of the plane resting on the base of the shooting board, than the angle at which it contacts the ledge?
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May 4, 2009 16:47
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I'm working on some laminated rolling pins this week and spent this morning making the wall hangers for them. It's fair bit of bandsawing to cut them out, which of course means sanding down to the cut line. As I worked them out on the combo belt sander/disc sander my Dad has, I really started to think an oscillating spindle sander would have made the job much easier. Anyone have one they like? Grizzly sells a floor model that looks good and I could maybe score a deal on it with Live cashback when it comes back.
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May 4, 2009 19:06
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Jagtpanther posted:Thanks again! This. Everyone ever has this mental problem with shooting boards and how they aren't supposed to work, but then they do. Pman: make a replacement fence out of some 80/20 extrusion or some such.
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May 4, 2009 20:30
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PMan_ posted:The fence is poor but planer and face use is great If it's nearby I would look at it but the fence is essential to jointing so I would be cautious. I wouldn't try fabricating a new fence for the sake of $70.
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May 5, 2009 06:36
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Good points. I'm swinging by there tonight, hopefully everything will check out.
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May 5, 2009 14:53
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Looking to pick up 'the last few bits', the cost of which is rapidly spiralling out of control. What's everyone's opinion on clamps? I can get cheap lightweight Bessey's with a 600mm length for a quarter of the price of a heavy-duty 1250mm Bessey's. I just don't know if I can justify £110 for two clamps, so do I really need them?
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May 6, 2009 10:21
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Well what are you going to be clamping? I assume you're talking about bessey sash clamps with those lengths. I can personally recommend these: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/67348/Hand-Tools/Vices-Clamps/Clamps/Sash-Clamps/Irwin-Record-Sash-Clamp-48-1219mm They've very, very robust, we use them for clamping sashes, doors, window frames etc, as well as when we're laminating large panels together. You can get a LOT of pressure on them and they're big, chunky, and solid, and only £30 odd. If you're after quick-cramps/hand cramps then wolfcraft are definitely the best I've come across, and the only ones you can get any real sort of pressure with: http://www.screwfix.com/prods/74829/Hand-Tools/Vices-Clamps/Clamps/Quick-Clamps/Wolfcraft-One-Handed-Pro-Clamp-700mm WhatEvil fucked around with this message at 12:54 on May 6, 2009 |
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May 6, 2009 12:08
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I've got various lengths of squeeze-trigger quick clamps up to 1' - but two of the projects I'd like to tackle first are a laundry basket and a coffee table, which'll be at least 3' in length and require a correspondingly long parallel clamp, right? That was a great link though, I'll get those instead of the Besseys (1250mm for £55). In regards to chisels, are these going to be OK? http://www.axminster.co.uk/product-Kirschen-Butt-Chisel-Set-480155.htm
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May 6, 2009 12:41
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I've no personal experience of that brand. I've got a set of these: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Marples-M373-Splitof-Bevel-Chisel/dp/B0001GS17W and they've served me very well. I don't actually do woodwork anymore as I've moved onto designing hardwood conservatories etc, but I was a professional joiner for 4 years, so all my tools saw pretty heavy use. I also still work in a (dusty) office attached to a large joinery workshop, so I still know what we use and to some extent what the good makes are. Also that set is a pretty good deal, considering what the individual chisels go for: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Marples-M373-Splitof-Chisel-2In/dp/B0001IX9NG Also also, the only thing to note with those sash clamps I linked you to before is that the throat isn't going to be as deep (hurr hurr, deep throat) as most F clamps, but then depending on what you're mostly planning to make you won't necessarily need a very deep throat. WhatEvil fucked around with this message at 12:54 on May 6, 2009 |
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May 6, 2009 12:47
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With the self control of a ten year old with ADD, I've just laid out the cash for: Record Sash Clamps (48") x2 Japanese Small Dozuki Panel Saw - 370mm Lie-Nielsen Cabinet Scraper Set Kirschen Burnisher Axminster Stone Pond with 3 Waterstones Axminster Honing Guide Liberon Shellac Flakes - Blonde Dewaxed 250g Beechwood 4" Carpenter's Mallet Titebond ll Wood Glue Marple 6-chisel set (1/4", 3/8", 1/2", 3/4", 1", 1.1/4") Along with my three planes, Claw hammer, club hammer, keyhole/compass saw, mitre gauge, spirit level, steel rules, square and engineer's square I should have everything I need, right? If not, I'm going to kill myself.
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May 6, 2009 14:40
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How much did you pay for the waterstones? Are they the diamond stone kind? If not, I'd definitely have recommended going with diamond stones over the actual stoney ones.
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May 6, 2009 15:17
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£45 for three stones, nagura stone and a pond. Been reading the Handworking Essentials book and the entire sharpening process is covered with waterstones and a honing guide - I figure/d it'd be a good start, and I can find my niche once I've had a chance to get some stuff actually built.
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May 6, 2009 15:46
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Jagtpanther posted:With the self control of a ten year old with ADD, I've just laid out the cash for: You're me. Only with more self control and less power tools. Reading the last two pages of all this hand tool stuff is trouble. Only thing saving me from another spiral is the fact I'm flat rear end broke for the foreseeable future and a lathe is my next step if it kills me. It might.
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May 6, 2009 23:08
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Buying tools is a horrible endless spiral into bankruptcy. I got a lie neilsen low angle block plane earlier in the year (its the cheapest of the range), but now im looking at the more expensive smoothing plane (£265), and one of their kill-your-first-born priced try/jointing planes (£375), and wondering how I'm going to afford it on part time wages without taking up drug dealing.
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May 7, 2009 02:07
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Jagtpanther posted:Liberon Shellac Flakes - Blonde Dewaxed 250g It's not a necessity, but you might consider getting a cheap hand blender to grind up those flakes prior to dissolving them. It doesn't make the shellac any better, but will make it dissolve a lot quicker.
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May 7, 2009 05:42
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too lengthy: see below I found what looks like a relatively easy chest and did a sketchup model of it: 
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 09:56 on May 8, 2009 |
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May 7, 2009 09:17
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too lengthy: see below
Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 09:55 on May 8, 2009 |
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May 7, 2009 22:19
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Jagtpanther posted:Just spent the last three hours sharpening two of my plane blades. Yeah, this is why I don't use stones.
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May 8, 2009 02:13
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^^ The books lied to me, they said it would be 50-100 strokes, not a thousand! Previous posts were over-wordy, my apologies. Concise Edition: - My metal Record plane's whole blade appears to be twisted, is it worth working on it, or just ditch it and get another? - Are curls 0.007in to 0.009in thick OK for a Jack Plane? What roughly should I be aiming for with a fore/smoothing plane? - When designing/choosing a plan for a box, is it easier to create a shell of boards and fixing the corners with dovetails, or a framework and panels/slats? - Is it easy or hard to plane the long edge of boards at an angle about 10 degrees off horizontal? - My parallel clamps have a thin oily coating on the bars, should I clean that off? Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 09:57 on May 8, 2009 |
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May 8, 2009 09:55
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Diamond stones and honing guides are nice. How badly twisted is your plane blade? If you can still get a decent straight edge on it I guess it'll still be usable. When you say curls, you mean the wood you're slicing off with each stroke? If so then if it's easy enough to plane and you're getting the desired finish then whatever is fine. Plan for a box depends how you would be fixing the framework. Dovetails are a pain unless you have a dovetail jig / relevant router bits, but then you might enjoy doing that by hand. When you say boards do you mean timber boards or laminated boards like ply etc? Ply doesn't plane well, but timber boards it should be pretty easy to plane at an angle, your only problem is going to be keeping the angle consistent along the whole length. I suppose you could set yourself up a jig somehow to keep a consistent angle but I'm not too sure how you'd go about that. The oil on the clamps is just to stop rust. You should clean it off, they won't rust much, and you don't want to get that oil on anything that you'll be painting/staining etc because a lot of wood finishes hate oil and silicon.
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May 9, 2009 18:36
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Furniture cleaning question, I just bought matching midcentury danish modern but made in japan couches and the wood has spatters and dust and grime built up for being in someone's basement too long. Nothing traumatic just ugly. Whats the best way to clean and safeguard the couches? I hear mineral oil to clean and then carnuba wax to protect, yes? I don't want to use any products that impart silicon or nasty crap I don't need in them.
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May 9, 2009 20:41
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I think you mean silicone oil which is in most furniture polish. If the furniture already has a hard finish, probably lacquer, the only further protection you can give is with a wax or silicone product that will give mild abrasion resistance, by being slippery, and will make dust easier to remove. The only issue with silicone oil is if you ever might want to refinish the furniture, you would need to sand it down to wood and put on a sealer coat of shellac or sanding sealer before applying other hard finishes. You can clean with diluted Murphy's Oil Soap.
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May 10, 2009 05:01
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I was warned over and over to avoid silicon because if you ever need to fix it up again its a bitch.
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May 10, 2009 18:14
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Not an Anthem posted:I was warned over and over to avoid silicon because if you ever need to fix it up again its a bitch. Well, if you believe that someday you'll want to refinish this furniture and don't mind using wax, there you go. Odds are that silicone has already been used on it at some point though. And 'a bitch', no, greatly exaggerated. Silicone will only penetrate where the original hard finish is damaged through to wood and sanding will remove it, a sealer coat or a drop of silicone oil added to the spray lacquer will prevent any fisheye problems. And unless you are certain that silicone oil has never been used on the furniture, you'll have to assume it was and take prevention anyway if you refinish it. Using silicone oil is a bigger problem if you keep it around the shop. Some people have used it on their tools or tablesaw, then it contaminates the raw wood and can ruin the finish. I'm not saying you should use silicone oil, wax is probably a better choice just not as convenient.
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May 10, 2009 21:55
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Know a good mineral spirits + wax tutorial on buffing and all?
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May 11, 2009 01:03
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Welp, got some stuff done - I decided to go smaller and am building a small magazine trough for my bathroom (I get alot of reading done, and a mag/book is normally strewn on the floor). It's 16" x 6" x 12" of maple with lap joint corners and dowels, a through tenon supporting the floor and a decorative lip. My original intent was to use 5" planks of 3/4 - unfortunately my lumber yard only had 8' x 6" planks of 4/4, if I wanted to get it milled I'd have to go to the end of the queue, and since it was the crack of dawn on Saturday I decided to just plough ahead. In retrospect it was a bad idea 'cause I had to lug 20 kilos of maple the four miles home on foot! The plug sockets in my workshop didn't work, so whether I wanted to or not I was stuck with hand-tools only for the entire escapade! My first issue was that I've only got a hardpoint DIY saw with about 6 TPI and a gigantic kerf - so it was a little messy cutting the maple up. The back-side of the boards got a little chipped by the cut, too. I realised that I needed to do some end-grain planing, so built a shooting board. That worked pretty great, although I do need to double check it's flatness, as there's an almost imperceptible change in color on the end-grain of the piece I'm flattening after I flip it and plane in the opposite direction. As a result of the above and getting a little impatient, I was a little too hasty in some of the planing passes and ripped out the fibres a few times when I neglected to put a sacrificial bit of wood behind the maple. Superglue, sand and leave? Lastly, I picked up some scraps at the woodyard - one that caught my eye was Sapele: http://www.dustystrings.com/building/harp_woods_sapele.shtml The scrap left was about 3' x 1 1/2" x 2" and rift sawn - my intention is to cut it to 15/16" wide and use it as a lip around the top of the trough. Any suggestions? EDIT: Response to above answers: Thanks, for the help there guys, esp. WhatEvil My plane blade is twisted out of square, so I was thinking that if the back edge of the top of the plane is flat against the frog, the front edge will be buckled and off at an angle, even if it's flat, right? Or by flattening the back of the front edge will that sort itself out? I'm a little confused! When I said curls, I meant the shavings - although when planing the end train I was getting super thin shavings, so I guess it just depends on how I adjust the plane blade. I was hoping for a ballpark figure for the different tasks and blade depths... When I mentioned about the angled long edges as you mentioned, I guess a jig holding a board at the perfect 10 degrees in a shooting/cutting board would do it - but as above decided to go with a square design first! And thanks for the tip about the rust, it was nasty. Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 14:25 on May 11, 2009 |
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May 11, 2009 13:33
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Here's one of the couches I got: Click here for the full 1536x2048 image. The armrests seem to have gotten a lot of either wear or sun exposure as they're fairly tan, while the backrest and seat are still a nice dark rosey brown.
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May 11, 2009 16:27
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Jagtpanther posted:As a result of the above and getting a little impatient, I was a little too hasty in some of the planing passes and ripped out the fibres a few times when I neglected to put a sacrificial bit of wood behind the maple. Superglue, sand and leave? Yeah you can, although you'll quite possibly be able to see the superglue still slightly when/if you finish it with anything. Paint, stain etc. doesn't usually like glue. Still, mitre bond is very useful stuff: http://www.axminster.co.uk/pricing/INC/recno/2/cid/OUQAX0OM8YWEBAYTZ81JRWUKZ014ILGQ/product-Wudcare-Mitre-Fix-Adhesive-22664.htm There are all sorts of off brand superglues with activator sprays, but of the ones I've used I'd say this one is the best. Jagtpanther posted:Lastly, I picked up some scraps at the woodyard - one that caught my eye was Sapele: http://www.dustystrings.com/building/harp_woods_sapele.shtml Yeah, use sapele! I can thoroughly recommend it, because that's what we use 97% of the time to build (very high end) conservatories. It's great to work with, finishes nicely, isn't as expensive as oak or mahogany etc... I love the stuff. As for what you're doing with it, I have a hard time picturing stuff without drawings, plus from when I first started joinery I had access to jointers/planers/thicknessers and all sorts of other useful machinery, which is nice, but means I'm a bit buggered without it, so I don't know what to suggest here. Jagtpanther posted:EDIT: Response to above answers: Most welcome  To be honest, I'm having trouble pictureing exactly what'll happen, but I would think that as long as you have a flat straight edge on it then you should be able to get some use out of it. All you'll effectively have is the blade not sitting quite square if you're looking at it in plan view. So long as the blade sticks out from the bottom of the plane by a uniform amount across the width then it shouldn't matter. Jagtpanther posted:When I said curls, I meant the shavings - although when planing the end train I was getting super thin shavings, so I guess it just depends on how I adjust the plane blade. I was hoping for a ballpark figure for the different tasks and blade depths... Bit hard to say, but if you're tearing the grain of the timber, you're probably taking off too much Jagtpanther posted:And thanks for the tip about the rust, it was nasty. No problem. However with those clamps do note that if you're gluing up panels etc with them with pva then you'll most likely want something between the wood and the clamp, like greese proof paper or something(or just put a small piece of wood as a packer under the piece you're working on)? I'm not too sure. Anyway the issue is that if you leave something in the clamps with glue contacting both the wood and the metal it can stain the wood slightly with rust.
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May 11, 2009 19:50
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Graduation gift for my brother. Cherry, walnut keys and walnut lid catch. Copper patina lid. Need a way to texturize and add detail such as veining to the leaves next time. What I did this time left me unhappy. Going to make a removable divider and perhaps a sliding tray for the interior.    
ChaoticSeven fucked around with this message at 16:42 on May 12, 2009 |
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May 12, 2009 16:10
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ChaoticSeven posted:Graduation gift for my brother. I like your box and I mean that in a completely unhomoerotic way. Seriously nice though.
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May 13, 2009 06:52
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Jagtpanther: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/INCA-3PHASE-B...parms=72%3A1688|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 Buy it and replace the motor with a single phase motor. I seriously can not believe that saw is that cheap.
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May 13, 2009 20:02
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I'm trying to put together a standing desk (~37" height) to go into the corner of my room. The top is an old (solid wood) door with a plywood board on top. It measures 81" x 31" and I would guess weighs 80lbs. There will be at least 80lbs of equipment on the desk at all times. There must be absolutely no wobble or sagging. I'm currently planning on anchoring a (1"x1"?) board along both sides of the wall that the desk will sit against, then putting the desk on top and screwing it to the boards. I bought one metal leg that will support the one free-hanging corner. Is this a good idea? What would you recommend?
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May 14, 2009 21:19
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Sovi3t posted:I'm trying to put together a standing desk (~37" height) to go into the corner of my room. The top is an old (solid wood) door with a plywood board on top. It measures 81" x 31" and I would guess weighs 80lbs. I have built two desks this way. Make sure you are screwing your 1x1 to studs. The first desk I built like this had a 22in CRT(about 80lbs) sitting in the corner. I would suggest a second leg in front in the middle, 81" is a bit long for only one leg.
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May 14, 2009 21:56
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GEMorris posted:Jagtpanther: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/INCA-3PHASE-B...parms=72%3A1688|66%3A2|65%3A12|39%3A1|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50 Hi mate, Thanks for that link - seems I was too lax in checking the thread and it's slipped away from me! Is there an easy way to get decent 1/2" x 1" strips cut out of a 1 1/2" x 1" plank using only hand tools? A case of just being very careful and cutting with a handsaw down the length?
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May 15, 2009 10:45
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Jagtpanther posted:Is there an easy way to get decent 1/2" x 1" strips cut out of a 1 1/2" x 1" plank using only hand tools? A case of just being very careful and cutting with a handsaw down the length? I can do it with one of these and a combination square: http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3
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May 15, 2009 16:37
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this is the best thread i could find for this question, and it's not worth it's own thread, so here goes: I am looking for a mechanism similar to the one in this photo, or what they're called, or even better, a source for tables similar to this. if it's not clear from the picture, it's a coffe table that has mechanism to lift up and back half the table so you may eat or surf comfortably.
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May 21, 2009 01:49
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Heres the mechanism. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10405 Don't know where to get a pre-built table.
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May 21, 2009 02:00
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thanks, im alot closer than i was 5 minutes ago. as an aside, I must have searched google for every possible other name for the device, when 'lift-up table mechanism' was almost verbatim in the post i just made. doh. ColonelMoutard fucked around with this message at 02:11 on May 21, 2009 |
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May 21, 2009 02:08
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