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fail like poo poo?
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May 9, 2009 10:45
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jamal posted:fail like poo poo? Have a rather large failure margin. I don't believe it. Also, thanks (both now and in advance) for answering my stupid questions.
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May 9, 2009 10:49
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no not really. n/a 2.5s have headgasket issues, but otherwise they tend to be very reliable. Obviously things are going to wear out on an older car, so it's important to do as much of maintenance yourself if you want to keep costs down. But that goes for anything. My old car was a 93 legacy, that I got in 2000 with 92k miles. We had the timing belt replaced shortly after purchase, but for some reason we didn't get the water pump or any of the idlers changed. So at about 130k the water pump exploded, and then at 180k one of the idlers seized, which ruined (but didn't break) the timing belt and wore a hole in the timing cover:  The hilarious thing is that I drove it that way for over a week before I noticed. Other than that it went through a couple of CVs and I trashed the automatic transmission by manually shifting all the time and generally abusing the car. Finally, at 199k miles, I let the oil get a little low, and after an extended session of high revs and high g cornering managed to spin a bearing. That was last year and I immediately went and bought another legacy.
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May 9, 2009 11:00
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jamal posted:no not really. n/a 2.5s have headgasket issues, but otherwise they tend to be very reliable. Obviously things are going to wear out on an older car, so it's important to do as much of maintenance yourself if you want to keep costs down. But that goes for anything. Sounds like I'm in the clear then. I was raised working on cars, so I can do all the basic maintenance stuff easily. I'm just utterly enamored by the WRX. It offers so little for so cheap, and as a poor college kid (getting the money to buy this thing through a lawsuit settlement), I think it'd be a good investment to have a car i could have for 10 years or so. All in all, I think it offers a good snowboarding, roadtrip, daily driver, and fun car all in one package. If the transmission goes out, I'll fix it or have a buddy help me. If something breaks, hopefully I can replace it for cheap. Either way, I'll have a car I can work on and keep for a decade. PS- I also dig the bug-eyed 02/03 look.
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May 9, 2009 11:08
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jamal posted:I think it has a twin scroll VF37, and possibly dual avcs. Also a one piece intake manifold, semi-closed deck, forged pistons etc. What specifically did you want to know about it? The manifold is probably the biggest special thing over the regular ver8 sti. On the other hand I'm not really familiar with the non-us models. I'm specifically looking for specs on the N12 homologation. Around about August my car is about to get a rather major pull down and conversion job done - unfortunately for Group N you need to have everything exactly right.
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May 10, 2009 00:29
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new plate Most people are going to think I'm a huge Scooby-Doo fan which is ok because I like the cartoon.
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May 10, 2009 02:44
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Haha awesome plates. I have one of these (TD05h)  And like all of them, it now has a cracked exhaust housing. So I am looking at a new turbo. TD05-20G, VF34 or VF22. Anybody got any recommendations for a good one to suit a 98 wrx motor? (in a gen 1 legacy shell)
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May 10, 2009 12:12
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Is it a stock motor?
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May 10, 2009 17:35
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Hey jamal, I'm having a problem with my car that I wanted to get your opinion on. Anyone else is welcome to chime in as well of course: Symptoms/Problem: -Sluggish to hit boost, used to hit at 3-3.5k, now 4-4.5k -Used to be intermittent, now happens constantly -The car still feels pretty fast on boost, not sure if it's affected. -Much worse in low gears. 1st hits at 5k+, 2nd at 4500. These gears had boost around 3500 when I didn't have the problem Possible causes I can think of: -AVCS non-functional -Wastegate leak -Up pipe leak -Carbon buildup (my tune has 11:1 AFR under boost) -This last one is a little tricky...I recently did the center diff, the problem didn't start immediately after I installed it, but about a week afterward. Not sure if this would have anything to do with it. -I checked for boost leaks and there were none, so this has been ruled out. Mods: -Ver7 STi engine mated to Ver6 transmission in 2001 RS (swap done by ECS) -VF34 -HKS 3" DP -HKS Hi-Po exhaust -Hallman MBC -Perrin inlet tube -tuned to 19psi Additionally, when I took my IC off the other day when I was checking for leaks, I noticed a little oil around the oil line going into the turbo. Is this something I should be worried about? What causes this? Could it possibly be related to my problem? More generally, can anyone eliminate some of the possible causes? I have no smoke, no strange sounds, just an inexplicable increase in lag.
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May 10, 2009 22:02
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Well, I ran into some money issues that put my dream of an Outback XT (or really any turbo subaru) out of my reach for a while, so I'm going to work on making my 99 OBS not suck so bad. I understand that there's really nothing I can do for the motor besides a swap, so I was going to do some work on the suspension. Then I realized I don't know much about suspensions. Everyone recommends an anti-lift kit, but is it really necessary for my car with so little power? Also, what can I get for struts and springs or coilovers that isn't horrifyingly expensive? Ground Controls look pretty good and they're within my budget, but the only shocks they'll work on for my car are Sachs, Boge, KYB AGX, or GAB, and all I've seen online are the AGXs, which are apparently pretty lovely. Also, you have to specify your own spring rate for the ground controls, and I have no idea what would be best for me. As for the brakes, would it be worth it to scavenge some rear discs off an Outback or should I just get some good pads and rotors? Also, I take it stainless steel lines would help eliminate the lovely, long travel sponginess of my brake pedal. Eugene Debs fucked around with this message at 22:48 on May 10, 2009 |
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May 10, 2009 22:42
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Well, off to look at, and hopefully purchase, an 03 WRX with 48k miles on it tomorrow, hope everything goes alright. I'll reveal what I paid provided I buy it, but it's looking to be the deal of the century.
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May 11, 2009 05:10
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I'm coming up on my next oil change interval. I've got an 02 wrx with 89k on the odometer. All it's had is dino 10-30 Can I switch to the synthetic Rotella 5-40 or is swapping to synthetic this late in life bad? I remember some rumor/parent adage about having to switch by 30k miles.
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May 11, 2009 05:11
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You can switch. Why are you running a higher viscosity oil? Are you eating some oil?
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May 11, 2009 05:13
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RealKyleH posted:You can switch. Why are you running a higher viscosity oil? Are you eating some oil? Not that I've noticed, but I only seem to find rotella in 5-40 weight.
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May 11, 2009 05:21
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toplitzin posted:Not that I've noticed, but I only seem to find rotella in 5-40 weight. That's because it's a diesel oil. Most people that use it in gas engines use the 5w-40 grade
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May 11, 2009 07:21
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dayman posted:Hey jamal, I'm having a problem with my car that I wanted to get your opinion on. Anyone else is welcome to chime in as well of course: Does the turbo sound funny or anything? It could by dying, but that's generally associated with loud screeching noises. An exhaust leak would be obvious. Could be a problem with the boost control system or bpv. Have you talked to your tuner? It is normal to hit boost later in the first couple of gears and have a lower peak boost because there is less load, although you definitely have a problem of some sort. And yes switching to rotella 5-40 is fine. I started using it recently and my car has 149000 miles. I actually consume less of it than I did with other oils. I also have no leaks since most the gaskets and seals on my motor are new. In work news this build is nearly finished:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Twin scroll rotated 35R, cosworth intake manifold, forged pistons, front mount, perrin fuel rails. There's still some fab work that needs to be done to make things fit right. jamal fucked around with this message at 08:53 on May 11, 2009 |
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May 11, 2009 08:08
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This is probably a stupid question, jamal, but what exactly is a "rotated" turbo? Is it just that the turbine has been moved around in the engine bay so that the exhaust gas doesn't have to go through as many corners in order to hit the hot side?
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May 11, 2009 16:39
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I thought you guys would enjoy some pics of my old engine damage: (Linked for big) http://planetochina.com/wrxcrank.jpg http://planetochina.com/crowerrod.jpg
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May 11, 2009 18:58
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Seat Safety Switch posted:This is probably a stupid question, jamal, but what exactly is a "rotated" turbo? Is it just that the turbine has been moved around in the engine bay so that the exhaust gas doesn't have to go through as many corners in order to hit the hot side? The stock turbo is located right next to the bellhousing and the inlet is routed under the manifold. Because of this it's not possible to fit a very large turbo in the stock location. A rotated kit moves the turbo back and to the side so that the inlet no longer passes under the manifold, giving more room for a larger turbo. Perrin, for example, sells an up-pipe and downpipe that will bolt right into a pretty much stock car.
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May 11, 2009 19:03
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Finally sold my Saabaru this weekend! When I told the guy that bought it that he should make sure and fill it with premium he replied with "oh, I don't usually pay attention to those sorts of things."  I hope his kid who he bought it for takes good care of it, but for some reason I don't think that will be the case.
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May 12, 2009 00:18
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I'M SORRY SIR BUT THIS VEHICLE IS NO LONGER FOR SALE
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May 12, 2009 00:25
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I'm having an issue related to the headgasket on my 2001 Forester (as I gather many people are...) I should go ahead and get the fact that I know precious little about cars out of the way... The engine has 82k miles on it and the head gasket blew sometime back over the winter, causing my coolant to be burned off. Subaru replaced the head gasket under warrenty (barely slid by with two months left on it), but the brief time it was driven without coolant did some additional damage. According to the dealer and one of our mechanics at work, it's likely warped a head. When I drive the car now, there's a lovely knocking sound coming from the engine, which subsides a bit once the engine warms up, but never goes away. Is this a death sentence for the engine? The dealer says I likely have around six months or so left to it. They can repair it by replacing the short block for around $4500, or I found a guy who quoted me $2600 for a used engine with labor, but then I suppose that engine would likely develop head gasket issues as well. I guess I'm trying to determine if I should be shopping around for a new (used) car... Febtober fucked around with this message at 01:13 on May 12, 2009 |
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May 12, 2009 00:53
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whoops, double post...
Febtober fucked around with this message at 01:13 on May 12, 2009 |
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May 12, 2009 01:00
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Febtober posted:I'm having an issue related to the headgasket on my 2001 Forester (as I gather many people are...) I should go ahead and get the fact that I know precious little about cars out of the way... well, if it's a warped head a shortblock won't do anything for you. Probably the cheapest option is to find a used motor and replace the headgaskets with the updated parts from subaru before installing it in your car. It could be even cheaper if you can find just heads, but who knows why the seller might have taken apart the motor so be wary.
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May 12, 2009 03:27
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What fluid do you guys recommend using for the WRX 5MT? Mine's getting a bit more prone to grinding now at around 103,000 miles. I couldn't find any mention of it on scoobymods and Nasioc is all 
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May 12, 2009 16:03
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dreggory posted:What fluid do you guys recommend using for the WRX 5MT? Mine's getting a bit more prone to grinding now at around 103,000 miles. I couldn't find any mention of it on scoobymods and Nasioc is all 3qts Redline Lightweight Shockproof with 1 qt of Motul Gear300 synthetic should do nicely 
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May 12, 2009 20:23
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TurboLuvah posted:3qts Redline Lightweight Shockproof with 1 qt of Motul Gear300 synthetic should do nicely I have also read that straight Motul Gear300 is good. I plan on doing that in the near future just because I dont feel comfortable mixing fluids.
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May 12, 2009 20:28
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TurboLuvah posted:3qts Redline Lightweight Shockproof with 1 qt of Motul Gear300 synthetic should do nicely You're uncle scotty, aren't you.
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May 12, 2009 20:37
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dreggory posted:What fluid do you guys recommend using for the WRX 5MT? Mine's getting a bit more prone to grinding now at around 103,000 miles. I couldn't find any mention of it on scoobymods and Nasioc is all Great stuff
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May 12, 2009 20:56
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I just found out that Tirerack has H&R Coilovers for sale. Are they any good? They'd come out to just a little more than Ground Controls with lovely KYBs. It's strange how stuff shows up when I search for 2.5RS, but not for any other Impreza of that time, despite their suspension parts all being exactly the same. Eugene Debs fucked around with this message at 21:02 on May 12, 2009 |
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May 12, 2009 21:00
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Eugene Debs posted:I just found out that Tirerack has H&R Coilovers for sale. Are they any good? Why do you want coil overs for? You can do a lot with normal struts. And I would point out that cheap coil overs are NOT better than say a simple Bilstein insert with uprated springs. You need to view entry level coil overs as something like DMS 50mm - then you really do get something you cant really do with a Bilstein insert. Yes that is $$$$$$$ but then again, coilovers are only really for getting the absolute most out of your suspension. And you really should be not wastign your time or money on cheaper poo poo - a set of good King Springs and Bilsteins, you'll love the real gains.
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May 12, 2009 23:11
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Cat Terrist posted:Why do you want coil overs for? You can do a lot with normal struts. And I would point out that cheap coil overs are NOT better than say a simple Bilstein insert with uprated springs. You need to view entry level coil overs as something like DMS 50mm - then you really do get something you cant really do with a Bilstein insert. poo poo dawg my coilovers ride so rough that's how I know my suspension is so badass (what I'm saying is, you're correct)
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May 12, 2009 23:26
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Cat Terrist posted:Why do you want coil overs for? You can do a lot with normal struts. And I would point out that cheap coil overs are NOT better than say a simple Bilstein insert with uprated springs. You need to view entry level coil overs as something like DMS 50mm - then you really do get something you cant really do with a Bilstein insert. Aren't the Koni/Billstein inserts pretty difficult to install, though? I'm not exactly a master mechanic here, and from what I've seen people with a lot more skill than me have troubles with them. Turns out there are Koni yellows for my car, though. Unfortunatley they cost $800 for the struts alone. I suppose there aren't any struts which are reasonably priced, not horrifying to install and perform well, are there? Eugene Debs fucked around with this message at 01:53 on May 13, 2009 |
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May 13, 2009 01:46
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Eugene Debs posted:I suppose there aren't any struts which are reasonably priced, not horrifying to install and perform well, are there? At least for street/(light)track use, I think Cat Terrist is using a bit of hyperbole, though i guess it depends on exactly what is out there for your car. You have a hell of a lot more options than on my However, a set of $1000 coil-overs will not out perform a cheaper set of good shocks. You'll be surprised at how much your car will improve with just a set of decent dampers. Personally, I've fairly happy with my $1800 set of Racecomp tarmacs (though if I could pony up $10k for a set of DMS LGT coils I would), but the LGT market is no where near as developed as the Impreza market in the US. We either get Bilstiens (which are pretty drat good, it is more the spring issue.) with stock springs, Bilstiens with OEM JDM tyte springs, Bilstiens with "lowering springs," lovely coilovers, medium range ($2000ish) coilovers, or "holy poo poo that's expensive" coilovers. Or i could get off my rear end, get some sleeves and get custom rate springs, but i'm lazy. Note: I don't race my car like he does. The other option is to upgrade the driver, which will be cheaper and more rewarding. Not that I'm good at that, it is "easier" to throw money in a car to cover up your faults.
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May 13, 2009 02:05
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The problem is my generation Impreza is something of a bastard child in the states. We never got the turbos until 02, so there are basically no performance parts for the earlier cars. All I've been able to find for struts that are even reasonable sporty is the KYB AGX, Koni Yellows and Koni inserts. Springs aren't a problem, but there's really not much for good struts for my generation of car, unless I can use something from the bugeye WRX, which I don't think I can.
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May 13, 2009 02:14
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Eugene Debs posted:The problem is my generation Impreza is something of a bastard child in the states. We never got the turbos until 02, so there are basically no performance parts for the earlier cars. You sir, do not know how to use google. I'm assuming you're talking about the 93-01 GC impreza. If so, see first sentence.
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May 13, 2009 03:09
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dayman posted:You sir, do not know how to use google. I'm assuming you're talking about the 93-01 GC impreza. If so, see first sentence. Yes, I am talking about the GC impreza. I think you must be talking about a different car entirely, however, because the performance suspension components for GC imprezas amount to ricer poo poo (Tein, Tanabe, Megan, AGX) and Konis/Bilsteins, which cost more than most GCs did.
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May 13, 2009 03:36
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ab0z posted:You're uncle scotty, aren't you. doooooooood fuckin kiddies these days don't know poo poo.
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May 13, 2009 05:09
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Hey Jamal, is it possible (and by possible I mean "not really very difficult at all") to run WRX struts on my GC8?
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May 13, 2009 05:18
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| # ? May 12, 2024 23:23 |
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it's possible but also sort of a little bit difficult. Firstly the bolt pattern is different in the rear strut towers. So you'll need to either use your tops on 02-03 suspension, get some 90-91 legacy rear tops for 04-07 suspension, or file out the holes until it fits. The other thing is that us wrx suspension isn't all that great and isn't much stiffer than your stock suspension (although it is newer). The sti suspension is a nice upgrade, but the only year that fits is 2004 and those struts are all old and clunky by now. Then finally, if you do bolt up wrx suspension, your alignment will be all out of wack because the wrx has a wider track width. Your best options, in order of cost, are the following: New KYB GR2 struts GR2s with a set of GC specific aftermarket springs. KYB AGXes alone or with springs AGXes with ground control coilover sleeves (to use stiffer springs) Koni inserts with coilover sleeves - A great budget high performance option IMO RCE tarmac 2 coilovers.
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May 13, 2009 05:40
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