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Try Allied insurance, they have good rates for my junk.
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May 19, 2009 23:20
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BotchedLobotomy posted:24, going on 25 in July. Los Angeles, CA. You're paying 200$ a MONTH for liability only? Please tell me that's a year. Check with State Farm...my agent is Mike Rosa, he's a cool guy, raced an SV, sponsers the AFM twins class. Give him a ring and they should be able to hook you up. Plus if you ever get in an accident, state farm will actually take care of you if you have problems. They paid out 4600$ for the g/f's SV when it got totalled. She bought it for 2800.
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May 20, 2009 00:10
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Ha sorry, yes I meant per year. For a test I tried out my same information but put in my old home address when I lived in Santa Barbara, and it dropped me to 600/yr. I guess its my area?  I haven't made any plans to get the bike yet, probably either late summer or after summer is over, so I'm not serious yet. Just killing time at work.  I'll keep that guy's info on hand though, sounds like he'd be the guy to use. Thanks!
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May 20, 2009 00:16
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Stupid question here! My bike won't start so my dad and I were following some troubleshooting steps in the Clymer manual, and I think we narrowed it down to the signal generator being bad. I forget what we were testing the power output of, but the book said it should be 3 Volts, but we were getting 1 Volt. So my dumb question...What exactly is a signal generator? All I know is that there's a big magnet in/around it and there's a circular copper thing (stator?)
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May 20, 2009 03:27
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My 07 is about $450/year for full coverage through State Farm in NoVa.
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May 20, 2009 04:00
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I pay like $230 a year for my 04 with State Farm in Wisconsin, full coverage. I also cancel my insurance during the winter so I really pay about half that.
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May 20, 2009 04:36
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Atomic Hotdog posted:Stupid question here! My bike won't start so my dad and I were following some troubleshooting steps in the Clymer manual, and I think we narrowed it down to the signal generator being bad. I forget what we were testing the power output of, but the book said it should be 3 Volts, but we were getting 1 Volt. It lets the bike know where the crank is in it's stroke, so it knows when to fire the cylinders. If it's broken, you don't get spark.
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May 20, 2009 05:36
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I'm gonna have to get me some State Farm. Progressive and Geico quote me like 1500 dollars a year for liability only.
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May 21, 2009 03:24
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Today I put my SV up for sale. It's not even gone yet and I'm already starting to miss it.
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May 21, 2009 03:40
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What are you going to replace it with?
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May 21, 2009 04:06
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Opinions on this bike for a first timer? It seems to be priced inline, if not slightly under, what others in this area (birmingham/atlanta) are going for. http://atlanta.craigslist.org/mcy/1180096814.html quote:As it always happens I've found a bike I NEED to buy, but have to free up 4k.
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May 21, 2009 20:01
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It doesn't have an automatic, what do you want it for? Ok, that aside, that's a very nicely done SV. In fact, that bike could easily run at the front of just about any SV race class with a good rider on it. Do you have previous dirt riding experience? I'd hesitate to recommend such a pristinely/expensive bike to a new rider. If you have previous experience or a good mentor to help you get past those newb moments safely, though, then it's a great bike at a very good price, considering the number of good mods done to it. If you do get it, pick up some frame sliders and such, just to protect in the low speed/garage tipover that's so common for new riders.
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May 21, 2009 20:40
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Speaking of craigslist links, I was internet window shopping to see what was out there and saw this one for sale near where I live. http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/mcy/1178076938.html I'm bummed because I don't really have the cash and I'm not really in the market at the moment, but that bike has been done up with exactly everything I would have wanted to do if I owned one. The dual headlight setup looks awesome. Oh well. 
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May 21, 2009 20:48
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If you want an SV for your first bike, that's probably a good choice, since he's already fixed the SV's craptastic stock suspension, which is its primary shortcoming. Also it's naked, which means if you drop it there's less stuff to replace. Speaking of which, put motosliders on it immediately if you buy it. My sliders paid for themselves about 5 times over when my bike rolled off its kickstand in the driveway last year. As to whether an SV is a good first bike, that's a matter of opinion. It was a good choice for me, but I'm older, not especially prone to doing stupid poo poo and I took a lot of time getting to know the bike and understanding how it handled. Just be aware that even a "slow" bike like an SV has enough power to get you into trouble if you do something really dumb. I'm still quite happy with mine, though I'll probably consider a new bike towards the end of the year. I do wish the engine were a bit smoother, but I love the torque delivery. Pretty much perfect for the street.
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May 21, 2009 20:51
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BotchedLobotomy posted:Speaking of craigslist links, I was internet window shopping to see what was out there and saw this one for sale near where I live. Eh, that one's alright, but doesn't have any of the real suspension work done, and doesn't have much really going for it, honestly. You could buy a stock one for less and convert it, including a GSX-R front end, for much cheaper than that, and have a nicer bike to boot.
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May 21, 2009 20:51
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Z3n posted:Eh, that one's alright, but doesn't have any of the real suspension work done, and doesn't have much really going for it, honestly. You could buy a stock one for less and convert it, including a GSX-R front end, for much cheaper than that, and have a nicer bike to boot. Thats good to know, I was more going on looks rather than performance upgrades. I havent really done much research on the proper upgrades yet so I just took a look at this one which caught my eye. v vIs it mainly suspension upgrades that are important on the bikes? any other upgrades that I should be considering? When I get more serious about buying one I'll definitely be checking in here with possible options. No point in looking now since when I'm ready they'll be a whole new set of bikes ready to get sold. Minty Swagger fucked around with this message at 21:03 on May 21, 2009 |
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May 21, 2009 21:01
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Z3n posted:It doesn't have an automatic, what do you want it for? I can't afford the Aprilia Mana 850. It's so pretty too.I've ridden motorcycles a few times here and there, but not nearly enough to call it "experience". I'd be all for a UJM, but they all seem to go for $2k+ in my area. I've been around old bikes most of my life, my brother has owned nearly every Kawasaki and Suzuki model ever made between 1970 and 1985 and my dad put 35k+ miles on a 1976 Suzuki GT250 he bought new. I know what kind of maintenance UJMs require and I can't justify purchasing one vs a newer model to myself or my wife. I already have a project vehicle, I don't need another one. My other big reason for leaning SV is that my commute is 55 miles one way; 40 miles of which is 65mph posted (75mph actual) highway. Everything I've read here suggests to me that something like a Ninja 250 would be miserable to ride in those conditions. Those two reasons, combined with the fact that I'm married, 28, and have long since worked out my thrill seeker tendencies make me think that an SV might be right for me. The one I linked just appealed to me because I can't think of anything else I would need, or even want, to add to the bike other than maybe an exhaust. I can get my wife to go for $4k for a modern bike, she won't even consider letting me pay $2k for "some old bike that you will be working on as much as your drat Mustang".
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May 21, 2009 21:10
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Eh, it's not the best bike in the world, but given your situation, it's not an bad choice either. Just be careful, pick up some decent gear, and get some training and you'll be fine. It's a good deal on the bike, too...so, go for it, I guess. You only live once  Get some sliders for it.
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May 21, 2009 21:44
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frozenphil posted:Opinions on this bike for a first timer? It seems to be priced inline, if not slightly under, what others in this area (birmingham/atlanta) are going for. Where the hell do you live? Also buy that bike so I don't end up trying to take out a loan for it.
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May 22, 2009 13:44
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Captain Apollo posted:What are you going to replace it with? New spark plugs.
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May 22, 2009 14:18
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Anyone following the thread on SVRider about the new Ricor Intiminators? http://forum.svrider.com/showthread.php?t=100825 They're functionally similar to emulators, but use some sort of inertial valving, the point of which is to allow for lightly damped wheel movement but controlled, highly damped chassis movement--ie, the wheels follows bumps and ruts, but the chassis doesn't dive during braking. Installation is really easy. they simply drop in to the forks with no need to remove and modify the damper rods as with emulators. The reviews are very positive so far with at least one guy saying they're better than GSX-R fork swaps and AK20 cartridge conversions. Anyway, they're normally $300, but are temporarily 50% off, so for $150 (plus the cost of 5W oil) it seems like a worthwhile experiment. God knows anything's better than the stock setup.
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May 22, 2009 19:19
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MourningGlory posted:Anyone following the thread on SVRider about the new Ricor Intiminators? I've been looking at them idly, as I've already got my bikes set up with everything I could want...for 150$, though, it's a no brainer. If I had a stock bike, I'd buy them for sure. I don't buy that they're better than GSX-R fork swaps, though, because the stock forks aren't as stiff at the GSXR front end, and that can lead to really odd stuff under race pace braking. I'm also not buying that they're perfect for race use either, because adjustability is key for both rebound and compression if you expect to have good suspension characteristics as the bike goes faster, and the intiminators don't provide any real adjustability. Are they a vast improvement over the stock stuff? I'm sure they are, even if all they do is match racetech stuff. Are they the second coming for SV front ends? I doubt it. Edit: Also, it's very hard to get a good judge of how fast people are riding on the street. Some people claim "torture test" and "better than GSX-R" but if they're not pushing the limits of the stock stuff when they're set up correctly, how are they supposed to know how much better or worse these are under faster conditions? Most people couldn't outride the stock stuff when set up correctly, much less a GSX-R front end, not to mention the other changes that occur as a result of the change to GSX-R forks. The GSX-R forks are also running much stiffer spring stock, what sort of setup are these people running? Is their SV sprung correctly? Is their GSX-R front end sprung correctly? If you're going from a setup that's wrong for your weight to one that's closer, of course it's going to feel better...but it doesn't mean that one solution or the other is better, it means that you're comparing old apples to fresh oranges. For most people, I'd recommend these over the racetech valves just because of the ease of installation and the absurdly low price at the moment. We'll see how they pan out, I don't think the really fast guys are going to be dropping their AK20s anytime soon. I'm sure they're better than stock SV forks, which are poo poo. I doubt highly that they're better than a GSX-R front end or the AK20s at track pace. Z3n fucked around with this message at 19:54 on May 22, 2009 |
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May 22, 2009 19:40
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Does $2500 seem like a good deal on this 99 SV650 with 23k? http://hartford.craigslist.org/mcy/1175294821.html The longer I look at it the more I like the look of the fairings.
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May 23, 2009 20:07
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monkeynuts posted:Does $2500 seem like a good deal on this 99 SV650 with 23k? It's a reasonable price. See if you can talk him down a little more, older SVs are really starting to bottom out on depreciation. It's probably been down, so take a good look at the frame and the tank to check for any potential damage.
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May 24, 2009 05:26
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http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/1189154315.html 2000 sv650, cracked frame that was rewelded near an engine attachment point. If the frame isnt bent and it was welded by a shop that specializes in welding frames, is this still a "oh god run away" situation? I can't tell from the picture, but is the location of that weld in a super important spot?
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May 26, 2009 17:24
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dietcokefiend posted:http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/1189154315.html I race a bike with a welded frame at the upper headstock. As long as it was done by a decent welder, it's not a problem. I'd buy that as a spares bike/commuter in a heartbeat. Obviously, the bike's been crashed, so I'd check everything very, very carefully, but if it's still straight and everything's in good shape, it's a very good deal.
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May 26, 2009 17:44
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Z3n posted:I race a bike with a welded frame at the upper headstock. As long as it was done by a decent welder, it's not a problem. I'd buy that as a spares bike/commuter in a heartbeat. Obviously, the bike's been crashed, so I'd check everything very, very carefully, but if it's still straight and everything's in good shape, it's a very good deal. It is hard to tell from the small picture not knowing the bike frame, but could that bend/flex/crack be caused by a hard front end collision that was hard enough to bend the frame through the force transmitted through the forks?
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May 26, 2009 17:52
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dietcokefiend posted:It is hard to tell from the small picture not knowing the bike frame, but could that bend/flex/crack be caused by a hard front end collision that was hard enough to bend the frame through the force transmitted through the forks? These frames are really tough. Mine was Tboned in a 35mph accident and the frame is not significantly tweaked, I just had the geometry checked at the race weekend by GP frame and wheel. It is possible that it was caused by that, it's also possible that it could have been hit from the side. I'd go in, talk to the guy, ride the bike around, and then maybe lowball him if you feel uncomfortable about it and walk if he doesn't bite. If there's a serious problem with the geometry, you will notice it because the bike isn't going to handle well or be smooth in some situations. Run it up to 50mph and take your hands off the bars and see what happens. Look at the condition of the tires, make sure they're aired up, as those things can cause odd handling characteristics too. By now you should have some understanding of how a bike should ride, but if at all possible, bring an experienced friend to take it for a spin, and as I said, if you feel uncomfortable with it for any reason, lowball and walk. A good SV frame would run you around 300-500$, and if you lowball him for 1200$, you could have a good SV for under 2k, which is an awesome deal. Z3n fucked around with this message at 17:57 on May 26, 2009 |
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May 26, 2009 17:55
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Z3n posted:These frames are really tough. Mine was Tboned in a 35mph accident and the frame is not significantly tweaked, I just had the geometry checked at the race weekend by GP frame and wheel. Sounds like a plan then. Will a riding novice be able to notice a tweaked frame in a normal testdrive? I was already planning on dumping 3-6k on a newer bike, so I have all the cash ready and 1600 would be a steal leaving more cash for other things.
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May 26, 2009 17:57
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dietcokefiend posted:Sounds like a plan then. Will a riding novice be able to notice a tweaked frame in a normal testdrive? I was already planning on dumping 3-6k on a newer bike, so I have all the cash ready and 1600 would be a steal leaving more cash for other things. See my edit, but if it's a problem, just swap frames. Not the end of the world, probably around a weekend or 2 of work, depending on how quickly you work. The amount of money you have available will turn that SV into whatever you want it to be. Also, it's worth noting that coming from an I4, you're going to have to get used to shifting earlier. You don't rev an SV out like you do an I4, you'll always have power on tap, but there will be less of it. If you're not happy with that, some of that money can go into upgrades that'll get it pushing almost as much power as your Ninja.
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May 26, 2009 17:58
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Z3n posted:See my edit, but if it's a problem, just swap frames. Not the end of the world, probably around a weekend or 2 of work, depending on how quickly you work. Well swapping frames is fine and all but I need one with a clear title for registration and whatnot. Info after talking with the guy: Original sv650 was totaled, forks bent, etc. The impact he guesses was from the previous rider crashing it into a culvert or parking stop and have the energy of the moving bike transmit into that small spot bending/cracking it. Besides the welding no alignment inspection was made. No gauge cluster, he is using a bicycle computer for speed. He has been riding it for 3 years and guesses he added about 8-9k to the bike which originally had 4k. Guessing this is a mixture of wrecking the original stuff and not having mounting points for a replacement with the front end swap. I really want oil pressure and neutral lights, what are my options? Will one of those supermoto computer units mount to the bike for this stuff? With the custom front and rear end are there any things to watch out for? He said he had to modify the swingarm by grinding to fit the shock to mount to the sv650 frame. He agreed to a test drive, so I will be stopping by home tonight after work to grab all my riding gear. He is close to the highway, which my work buddy said would be wise to test it on for higher speed stability looking for odd stuff with the frame. Going with cash in hand, but will probably mull over it for a day and grab some high resolution shots of the bike so one of you can inspect them and give yay/nay. So exciting 
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May 26, 2009 18:23
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dietcokefiend posted:http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/1189154315.html craigslist guy posted:This SV has the complete front end and rear end from a 2001 GXSR750. i'd pass on it to be honest you're buying someone else's half assed repair job and all the pursuant problems that inevitably crop up.
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May 26, 2009 20:22
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echomadman posted:that is not an 01 gsxr 750 front end, they've been USD since the 80's, maybe a 600. but in any case the guy isn't well informed on his own frankenbike. This included a few more pictures http://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/1173673311.html What exactly makes it stand out as not a 750 front end?
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May 26, 2009 20:33
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dietcokefiend posted:This included a few more pictures they're conventional forks, all the 750's have upside down (USD) forks
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May 26, 2009 21:04
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first, titles go with frames, so you find a clean title frame and you're good to go. Yes, a yapor or the like will let you have oil and neutral and such. It'll require a little wiring work, nothing too extreme. Echo is right, that's a gsxr 600 front end. It's still a good front end, but as echo says, I'd be wary of him bodging other stuff. For the price, it's hard to go wrong though. Be aware that you could have to work on it a bit or a lot to get it 100% and budget/offer accordingly and you'll be fine.
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May 26, 2009 21:06
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Ok picture and video time. Checked it out the bike looked pretty good for a Franken bike compared to other hackjobs I have seen. All of the welding (cracked frame and modified swingarm) were done by a local welding shop that deals in modifying bikes in the Cincinnati area. One part that stuck out at me as making me nervous were the rewelded steering stops which make the lock to lock movement less. The pictures of the bike in the garage show the bike at full lock, kinda rough for making tight turns. Why did this have to be done? Also notice the steering dampener under the cluster area, guess it is something from the 600 or 750. The front headlight is from a Nighthawk 750. He is somewhat negotiable on the price, going to start at 1400 and see what he says. Engine sounded great going from a cold start, shifter was kinda funny though. Pressing down locked it into neutral, up put it in gear. Is this the motogp style or whatever of shifting? Images linked because they are big. The past two pictures I left fullsize, since they are of the bent/welded area. http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260001.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260002.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260003.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260004.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260005.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260006.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260007.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260008.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260009.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260010.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260012.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260013.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260014.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260015.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260016.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260017.jpg http://www.t3flange.com/sv650/P5260018.jpg VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u0_AIyb_s5Q So what do you guys think? dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 23:50 on May 26, 2009 |
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May 26, 2009 23:47
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looks tidy enough apart from the horrendous headlight, sounds good too, its amazing how quiet a stock one is. the shifter sounds a bit odd, a gp shift is up for 1st and down for 2-6, that bikes sounds like a normal shift pattern with no 1st gear. edit: close up that weld looks a bit lovely, i only have experience with welding steel but all that bubbling and porous looking poo poo on top of the bead isnt encouraging echomadman fucked around with this message at 01:14 on May 27, 2009 |
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May 27, 2009 01:10
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echomadman posted:looks tidy enough apart from the horrendous headlight, sounds good too, its amazing how quiet a stock one is. Yea the shifter was pretty odd. At a stop my kawasaki can go one down into first and pressing up locks it into neutral. This bike I kept going back and forth and down locked it in neutral and up put it in gear. Correct on the weld. Looks poorly prepped with some dirt in the weld area or not enough shielding. Was kind of odd for a professional welding shop.
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May 27, 2009 01:14
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i think kwaks have some sort of "positive neutral finder" bullshit gimmick, maybe you're just used to that and a "normal" shifter feels different, are you sure there definitely wasn't a gear when you pushed down through neutral? you can go from 2nd directly into neutral on most bikes. sometimes first can be hard to get into without a bit of pressure or a little slip of the clutch edit: in other news my sv is getting a new chain and sprockets (+3 rear sprocket) this weekend and a set of those intiminators as soon as they arrive from americay. should make it feel like a new bike. echomadman fucked around with this message at 01:21 on May 27, 2009 |
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May 27, 2009 01:18
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The bike was off at the time, could that have caused it? I was making sure it was in N before I started it, since I didnt want to look like a jackass ramming his bike into the wall as I let off the clutch to walk around the bike idling 
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May 27, 2009 01:20
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