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How are Tokicos? A lot of people seem to like them more than the AGX, which from what I've gathered is pretty bouncy and has a tendency to blow up early. Also, the roads here are REALLY bad due to the plows tearing poo poo up (which is hastily patched) during the winter time, so something too stiff would rattle my teeth out.
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May 13, 2009 05:42
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jamal posted:doooooooood Que?
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May 13, 2009 05:44
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ab0z posted:Que? my imitation of uncle scotty on nasioc (who I like and is actually one of the guys who knows what he's talking about) Tokicos are decent I hear. I set up a car on agxes that sees regular offroad abuse and they've been holding up for almost a year now, so I wouldn't worry too much about them.
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May 13, 2009 05:52
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Eugene Debs posted:Yes, I am talking about the GC impreza. So what you meant to say is; The aftermarket support for my is huge, I'm just really picky. AGX's might be lovely, but they're cheap as hell, so when you blow one driving the car the way it was meant to be driven, on gravel, it doesn't cost you a fortune to replace it. I priced a set of konis for my car a while back and, with springs, it came out to around 1k, more than reasonable for what you get out of it. GC imprezas have some of the largest aftermarket support for an early 90's car, they were huge in japan even if they weren't big yet in the states. Guess what? The chassis's are exactly the same. That's why when you come in here saying they don't make anything for the GC impreza, it sounds like you're retarded. You're right about tokico's though, they're pretty much the only good suspension that I haven't seen available for the GC.
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May 13, 2009 13:26
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Eugene Debs posted:Lots of posts about a 99 GC Ok, so basically you've recognized you can't build something powerful with your current motor short of a swap (though technically you could, it just might not be very reliable) and you're looking at suspension and brake changes to tide you over. I've seen you mention springs, struts, and an anti lift kit, but nothing about sway bars. Definitely look into sway bars. Jamal answered your strut question and it all comes down to money. I'd personally go with Koni, but you mentioned that making your Impreza handle better is in place of getting a turbo Subaru. $800 might be better saved towards that future car. I'd personally avoid ground control springs, but I believe H&R are decent, if not good. I'm not sure how the H&R's pair with the stock struts though and poorly paired springs and struts can have a poor ride and wear prematurely. You'd obviously benefit from the ALK if the stock bushing is shot, but if it's not I'd probably spend my money elsewhere first. What kind of wheels and tires are you running? Perhaps consider a performance summer tire and a lighter/stronger wheel if you don't already have them? Finally, regarding brakes... I don't know if I'd hassle with switching out the rear for disc, but for pad replacement check out Hawk. For the things you want, troll the private classifieds section in your region on NASIOC. Their are lots of deals to be found and the 93-01 Impreza is super popular right now.
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May 15, 2009 08:31
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If asking for advice on buying a Subaru is kosher, I have a question. I'm out in California in a more rural area so there aren't very many decent used cars to be found on a budget as tight as mine is (~$2200), especially Corolla/Civic/Prizm-wise. It might just be the season, but the sooner I can get a care, the better. So I found someone about a couple hours away willing to sell his 1990 Legacy for $1500 because of a cosmetic issue (Big dent behind back passenger door), but otherwise has been keeping up on maintenance going back about seven years, with records. I'm not emotionally invested in getting a Subaru, but as far as I know these are pretty reliable and it seems like it'd be a good buy on the surface. Am I wrong? It's an automatic transmission and I read that those can be iffy, but I'm not sure to what extent and variable that is.
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May 15, 2009 08:49
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Mat_Drinks posted:
Why do you say that? With a set of konis, for example, you're going to want springs that are stiffer than what's available in stock fitment. So the answer is to get some ground control sleeves and springs for $400, in the rates and lengths of your choosing. You do have to make sure you get a length appropriate for the rate, travel, and desired ride height, though. Also the Whiteline ALK is one of the best suspension modifications you can do to a Subaru. Probably my favorite single part to buy. That and a rear swaybar.
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May 15, 2009 08:54
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Ground control uses Eibach ERS springs last time I looked which is their motorsports springs. Also how are GC rear sway bar mounts strength wise? I know the 02-03 wrx didnt have the greatest design to theirs which is why the 04 and up got a redesign.
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May 15, 2009 09:24
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uc0083 posted:Ground control uses Eibach ERS springs last time I looked which is their motorsports springs. Also how are GC rear sway bar mounts strength wise? I know the 02-03 wrx didnt have the greatest design to theirs which is why the 04 and up got a redesign. GC and 02-03 mounts are the same. I have 04+ mounts and kartboy endlinks with my 22mm adjustable whiteline bar. The mounts are really cheap, even new from the dealer, and I would recommend them with a swaybar larger than 20mm.
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May 16, 2009 10:06
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I was bored and on youtube watching videos of Forester XTs when I happened to find this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiNEI5Cv5n8
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May 16, 2009 10:51
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corsa posted:I was bored and on youtube watching videos of Forester XTs when I happened to find this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kiNEI5Cv5n8 This one was at the dealership where I bought my Legacy and STi.
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May 16, 2009 14:35
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jamal posted:Why do you say that? With a set of konis, for example, you're going to want springs that are stiffer than what's available in stock fitment. So the answer is to get some ground control sleeves and springs for $400, in the rates and lengths of your choosing. You do have to make sure you get a length appropriate for the rate, travel, and desired ride height, though. I got the impression from his posts that he was thinking about doing springs OR struts not both, and I suppose what I was trying to say, but not very well, is to make sure he gets rates and lengths that match well (i.e. if he gets just springs make sure they're springs that will work well with the stock struts). I knew the rear swaybar was a must, but the Whiteline ALK? Really? Is that just the GC or do you feel that way towards installing it on all Imprezas and/or Subarus? Eugene, if Jamal says do the ALK, do the ALK... he's way better at this than I am 
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May 16, 2009 18:31
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Anyone get a dent like this? Someone bumped my car while at work.  Click here for the full 907x680 image.  Click here for the full 907x680 image. So far I've gotten 1 PDR quote for $150-200. The guy says that he's unsure exactly how it will come out but he's willing to try. Anyone have a similar dent that was fixed successfully?
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May 16, 2009 20:15
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Mat_Drinks posted:Ok, so basically you've recognized you can't build something powerful with your current motor short of a swap (though technically you could, it just might not be very reliable) and you're looking at suspension and brake changes to tide you over. I actually just picked up a WRX rear swaybar and rear strut bar for $50, so I'm already on that. As for wheels, I'm running stock WRX wheels now because they're cheap and I really can't see spending lots of money on this car. I've got a set of RE960s on them, so I've got about the best you can get without dying the first time it snows (And it snows in June here) I've been doing some reading on RS25 and a lot of them are saying a rear disc conversion doesn't really help that much (being as the rear brakes don't really do much, anyway), but that a WRX front caliper swap can. So basically, I guess I'm just going to pick a WRX apart and see what parts I can put on my car. I'm already trolling NASIOC and RS25 to see what deals I can find. Eugene Debs fucked around with this message at 07:15 on May 17, 2009 |
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May 17, 2009 07:12
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How difficult is the timing belt replacement on a Forester? I found a tutorial over at Scoobymods that said something like 3 hours, but after it took me all afternoon to replace the sparkplugs, I'm hesitant to try it myself. The plugs wouldn't have been so bad if they had just left a little bit more space and that's what I'm worried about with the timing belt.
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May 17, 2009 21:53
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Ameko posted:Anyone get a dent like this? Someone bumped my car while at work. I had a parking lot dent that was about as deep as that one looks, though mine wasn't as long length-wise. For $80.00 at a place in Richmond, VA that specialized in paintless dent removal, it took about 10 minutes for a guy to magically fix the dent and scuffed clearcoat. To this day I cannot tell where the dent was. So I'd say there's hope, just be sure to ask around the area to find a place that does good work. I asked all sorts of friends and random people on the internet, and my dad ended up being the one that recommended the body shop 
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May 18, 2009 14:11
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LordOfThePants posted:How difficult is the timing belt replacement on a Forester? I found a tutorial over at Scoobymods that said something like 3 hours, but after it took me all afternoon to replace the sparkplugs, I'm hesitant to try it myself. The plugs wouldn't have been so bad if they had just left a little bit more space and that's what I'm worried about with the timing belt. You need to leave yourself an entire day, preferably one that will allow for running to the store/dealer for parts and tools. I got my Legacy torn apart in one afternoon, and spent the next morning getting the belt back on and buttoning it up - only to find that my tensioner was bad.
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May 18, 2009 14:19
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Anyone have any idea what could be causing this? I have a squeak coming from my drivers side front wheel under cornering when the wheel is turned a lot to one side or the other (usually right). It is more pronounced with my summer autocross tires which makes sense because they are 225 instead of 205 like my all seasons. I had the wheel off yesterday and noticed a rub mark on the strut. Now, this first started happening about a month ago intermittently and I actually just had an alignment done like a week ago and its still happening occasionally. Not that I think an alignment would have caused it because there shouldn't being enough negative camber range in the stock suspension to cause rubbing. It's not a constant squeak, it pulses and seems to let up some under acceleration and intensify a little under braking.
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May 18, 2009 15:46
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The quest for a subaru confines with a possible candidate: 2000 subaru impreza outback with 295k miles. They're asking $1900 . Claims it's mosly highway miles driving back and forth from Nevada to California. How long should I expect this to run? Am I crazy for even considering buying a car with nearly 300k miles? I know subarus have a reputation for reliability , I just want your opinions please.
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May 19, 2009 18:14
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Its coming up on time to receive my needing modification WRX turbo kit. It'll be going on my 02 WRX. Planned kit will be a FMIC, header, turbo back and GT28R. Hoping for around 325BHP and a quicker than stock spool. What will I need as far as support mods giving me room to grow to, say 300WHP(350ish BHP)? Also rather than you guys waste time explaining it, is there any website that does a run down of tuning options that's good and will help me make a decision of which tuner to get? I was planning on tuning it myself at first, at the very least until the turbo is broken in.
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May 19, 2009 19:03
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decypher posted:The quest for a subaru confines with a possible candidate: 2000 subaru impreza outback with 295k miles. They're asking $1900 . Claims it's mosly highway miles driving back and forth from Nevada to California. How long should I expect this to run? Am I crazy for even considering buying a car with nearly 300k miles? I know subarus have a reputation for reliability , I just want your opinions please. My friend scott had a 1.8 that went well over 300k. 1900 seemed a little high, but it's 800 less than the kbb in your region. :  :
dayman fucked around with this message at 19:19 on May 19, 2009 |
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May 19, 2009 19:14
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RealKyleH posted:Its coming up on time to receive my needing modification WRX turbo kit. It'll be going on my 02 WRX. Planned kit will be a FMIC, header, turbo back and GT28R. Hoping for around 325BHP and a quicker than stock spool. What will I need as far as support mods giving me room to grow to, say 300WHP(350ish BHP)? Fuel pump, injectors, and a good tune. Also might as well do an inlet pipe while you're at it. While I am a fan open source tuning, I would not recommend tuning the car yourself after modifying it heavily. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 21:44 on May 19, 2009 |
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May 19, 2009 21:36
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RealKyleH posted:Its coming up on time to receive my needing modification WRX turbo kit. It'll be going on my 02 WRX. Planned kit will be a FMIC, header, turbo back and GT28R. Hoping for around 325BHP and a quicker than stock spool. What will I need as far as support mods giving me room to grow to, say 300WHP(350ish BHP)? The GT28 is not really a great choice for a turbo. You can make the power you're looking for with a $400 used VF43. We really like the atp 3071, or you could try the new FP HT68, which might be better suited to a 2.0. While you're doing the header and turbo get an up-pipe if you don't already have one. TGV deletes and a turbo inlet are also a good idea. Tuning depends where you live. There are good subaru tuners in most parts of the country. I would only get an e-tune as a last resort.
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May 19, 2009 22:59
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Why shouldn't I get the GT28R? (It's a Chinese GT28R so discounting reliability as a reason, testing the reliability of it is part of the reason I am getting it. I could always get someone else to test it if practicality dictates though.) The header may already come with an up pipe we'll see when it gets here. If it doesn't I'll make the flanges and will have lots of stainless piping to make one. I am in Orlando FL. By inlet pipe do you mean compressor inlet as I will of course be removing the stock air box. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 02:03 on May 20, 2009 |
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May 20, 2009 01:36
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well, a gt28 is not really big enough to be an upgrade over a stock turbo that costs less. Plus you're getting one that will most likely be a piece of junk that will fail sooner than later. The HTA68 is only like $800. By inlet I mean the piece under the intake manifold that goes to the turbo. On your car an up-pipe is a priority since the stock part is catted and tends to send chunks into the turbine.
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May 20, 2009 11:27
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I'm aware of those things but I need to test it out and at the price I am paying for it I can afford to do so as long as it doesn't poo poo a blade and eat the motor. There will be a front mount in front of it which would hopefully catch it. Its just a bit of a bonus that it should spool very fast and give me more power down low. EDIT: I wont be using ford 42# green tops so I have no idea the nomenclature of Subaru's injectors. EDIT2: I just wanna emphasize this is my daily driver. It's ok to drive now and with that kinda bump in power throughout the whole power band should be decently quick. It's not so much about being fast as it is being enjoyable to drive, reliable, and not costing me much or really potentially making me money. If this turbo is good and lasts a few thousand miles, I will be selling them as well as keeping a log about my experience with it. I've also got two GT35Rs that will be being tested on friends cars around the same time so it should give me some idea. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 14:57 on May 20, 2009 |
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May 20, 2009 14:42
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I'm getting my rear wheel bearings replaced in my 04 STi, I'm just having the dealer press them in (already took the housings out). However, these housings are ridiculously dirty, to the point you can't tell what part is what in some places. Is there anything wrong with dunking these in a bucket of purple power mix or simple green, something like that? I didn't think it would be harmful but I don't know very much about damaging ABS, parking brake components (!!! what a pain in the rear end to take apart), etc. Thanks!
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May 20, 2009 15:39
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So for some reason the flow of WRXes on the used market has almost completely ceased, while there are more 2.5RSes available now than I've ever seen before. While I wait for more turbo wagons to appear so I can test drive them, I had a quick question. Is it possible to get a significant power increase in a 99RS (30-50 bhp) by replacing hard parts? I've seen some WRXes with a redline of 8500 or higher - I'm not up enough on my engine knowledge to know what you have to do for that, but I imagine they've changed a lot of internals. Does that work on the naturally aspirated cars to make more power? What do you have to replace? I assume they've done stuff like replace the cam/crank, pistons, conrods, etc with lighter/stronger parts and futzed around with the computer. I'm pretty much sold on the turbos so this is more or less academic - I understand that it's not really economically sane to try and add more power to a naturally aspirated Impreza. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 17:02 on May 21, 2009 |
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May 21, 2009 17:00
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So for some reason the flow of WRXes on the used market has almost completely ceased, while there are more 2.5RSes available now than I've ever seen before. While I wait for more turbo wagons to appear so I can test drive them, I had a quick question. You probably wouldn't have to even bother touching the con rods, crank, or pistons, as if you're not adding boost stock parts on an NA 2.5 should be up to the task of handling the extra 20-40hp that you extract from the motor with a massive amount of head work (or larger heads) porting, larger valves and custom cams. Add an exhaust and that's pretty much all you're going to be able to do to get more power out of that motor, and it will not be anywhere near worth it at all for the amounts of cash and time you spend trying to extract more power out of the NA motors. I never understood why these people throw cams into the NA 2.5 or anything else like that, to me it's an absolute waste.
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May 21, 2009 17:56
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So for some reason the flow of WRXes on the used market has almost completely ceased, while there are more 2.5RSes available now than I've ever seen before. While I wait for more turbo wagons to appear so I can test drive them, I had a quick question. Making an extra 30-50 hp is not a huge deal. A set of delta cams+ EM and a couple other supporting mods will get the job done. However, to do it right, you're looking at around 2k. A swap is not more economical in that it will probably be around 2k for a EJ20G swap DIY, but the performance ceiling is much higher. Honestly, aside from the wiring, doing cams is more difficult than a swap.
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May 21, 2009 19:55
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I'm buying a used 1986 Subaru GL Wagon from my parents as kind of a favor. It's a good little car and since my mother has had it from my grandmother who bought it new and rarely drove farther than around her block it only has 75,000 miles on it. I don't have any experience with owning a Subaru but I would like this car to last and become my commuter car for a while. It has a very weak sounding engine and shifts kind of sluggish sometimes (automatic trans). What is the opinion on this car? I've got an additional 2,000 american to put into it if I think it needs some improvements. Also, I heard these things blow head gaskets commonly. like hur 
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May 21, 2009 21:40
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sourpuss solstice posted:I'm buying a used 1986 Subaru GL Wagon from my parents as kind of a favor. It's a good little car and since my mother has had it from my grandmother who bought it new and rarely drove farther than around her block it only has 75,000 miles on it. I had a 1987 turbo version of that. Plainly its just slow with a small motor which would attribute to the weak sounding engine. The 3 speed auto is one of the last that isn't electronically controlled, I had to manually shift mine or it would stick in the top most cruising gear. The small engine and the disparity between the gears in the auto made it a really frustrating car to commute in for me, but I demand some passing power which it definitely didn't have. I wouldn't really sink any money into it, aside from keeping it running.
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May 21, 2009 22:34
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sourpuss solstice posted:I'm buying a used 1986 Subaru GL Wagon from my parents as kind of a favor. It's a good little car and since my mother has had it from my grandmother who bought it new and rarely drove farther than around her block it only has 75,000 miles on it. That's actually really clean for a GL. I've never seen one without rust holes big enough to crawl through.
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May 21, 2009 23:18
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I have a '05 saabaru aero and I'm interested in a 'simple' brake upgrade, any tips? I'm talking like, <$1k.
Isaac Asimov fucked around with this message at 00:13 on May 22, 2009 |
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May 21, 2009 23:47
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Isaac Asimov posted:I have a '05 saabaru aero and I'm interested in a 'simple' brake upgrade, any tips? I'm talking like, <$1k. Honestly? A set of Hawk HP+ pads, stainless steel lines, and a good brake fluid. There you go. If you want to spend more, get the 4 pot Subaru front brake calipers off of 06/07 WRXs.
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May 22, 2009 01:38
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TurboLuvah posted:Honestly? A set of Hawk HP+ pads, stainless steel lines, and a good brake fluid. There you go. Also, I've read that you have to replace stainless steel lines eventually(like years). Is this really the case? What brake fluid do you recommend? I just use whatever generic crap I bought for my Z a while ago. Thanks.
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May 22, 2009 02:16
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Isaac Asimov posted:Are those 4 pot calipers going to be better than the 05 WRX version(not being a douche)? They arent that great of an upgrade for the cost, just get lines, good pads, and fluid. You do have to replace the lines after a few years more-so if they are uncoated. I like ATE Blue/Gold for non synthetic and motul RBF600 for synthetic. I also pulled the abs fuse because wrx abs is the worst feeling abs of any car Ive driven.
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May 22, 2009 02:47
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uc0083 posted:They arent that great of an upgrade for the cost, just get lines, good pads, and fluid. I think I'll wait on pulling my fuse, although I'm sure I'd be fine without ABS with the way I brake. Sorry for the beginner questions, that's what I am :/ I search through forums/wiki but AI's replies are usually more helpful and less BS.
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May 22, 2009 02:58
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I'd like to first thank you all for being so gracious and patient with my silly questions. I'm currently looking at a 2000 Forester with 166K miles on it as my daily driver. The customer reviews on KBB, however reliable they are, seem to tale two stories. One is the story you'd expect to hear about the Forester: Reliable , decent cargo room, ok power. Then some resemble a horror movie: after 100K the thing falls apart, head gasket cracks, replacing virtually everything on the vehicle. I've read some needed a new head by 80K... Naturally, this car has 66K past the 100K mark and any problems would be evident by now. But I would hate to drop six large on this baby and get a lemon. How common are the head gasket cracks in this 2000 model? What's the best way to prevent the head from cracking on these cars? Why is it so prevalent? edit: What I really want to know is why Subaru's are 'prone' to these head cracks? edit: http://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-head-gasket-problems-explained/ has a wealth of knowledge on the subject and suggests proper maintenance and care of the car, especially the battery and coolant, is a great way to prevent the head from leaking. decypher fucked around with this message at 07:03 on May 22, 2009 |
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May 22, 2009 03:09
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4-pots are a better caliper but they're not any bigger than stock wrx brakes. They are also what I intend to put on my car. As for lines, yeah, they are a maintenance item. My friend blew out a goodridge line recently. A rock or whatever will get stuck in the braid and eventually weaken it. Make sure the lines you get are coated. Fluid: Don't bother spending the $15 a quart on motul. Get a big container of synthetic dot 4 at auto-zone for $6 and use it all during the flush. So far ABS hasn't bothered my in my Legacy. To make more power on an RS, you can bolt on headers and buy cams. But then you need a way to make use of those new parts via tuning. i-speed will sell you a reflash that isn't that great. Or maybe you could get it tuned via an s-afc or whatever. At that point you've spent $2000 for 30-50 hp. I think I could pull off a wrx motor swap for around that. a 2000 forester with 166k miles isn't worth 6000. Also remember that these are 10 year old cars with 100k miles. There are a lot of things that will be due for replacement at this stage. That said, I would avoid 2.5l Subarus of that era, and look for something with a 2.2. After 02 everything had a 2.5. The headgaskets themselves are graphite and they tend to fail. The motor with an MLS gasket will be trouble free. I replaced mine shorty after I got the car and do not expect any issues with the engine.
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May 22, 2009 07:07
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