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My brother just picked up a '99 M3 and we drove it from Charlotte, NC back to St. Paul, MN over the weekend. It drives flawlessly except that when you accelerate, there is this vibration that comes from the rear. Does this mean the diff is toast? It is perfect when cruising at whatever speed, it's just when giving it power...
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May 21, 2009 03:59
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two_beer_bishes posted:My brother just picked up a '99 M3 and we drove it from Charlotte, NC back to St. Paul, MN over the weekend. It drives flawlessly except that when you accelerate, there is this vibration that comes from the rear. Does this mean the diff is toast? It is perfect when cruising at whatever speed, it's just when giving it power... I'd inspect the guibo, driveshaft center bearing, and the differential mounts. I could be wrong, but I would think any of those could cause vibration in the rear (heh heh) under load. Barring those, would an out-of-alignment driveshaft do this under load or all the time?
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May 21, 2009 04:20
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oh man I can't wait to pick up my zhp. I am already looking at the steptronic paddle shift retrofits. Anyone wanna buy a ZHP wheel if I do?
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May 21, 2009 09:07
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Pissingintowind posted:A bad O2 sensor should throw a code, or even make the car shake at times. Check for codes? I'd guess spark plugs. Not always true. O2 sensors are wear items and can operate poorly without throwing a CEL.
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May 21, 2009 14:50
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So I'm a firm believer in: If it sounds too good to be true it most likely is. Which brings me to an 89' 325iX in my area that is for sale. The guy selling it has put new wheels and tires, front brakes, Radio and Antenna, Fan Clutch, Headlights, On Board Computer Upgrade Performance Chip, Belts, New Blower Fan, Battery, Chrome Gauge Trim, ICV Valve, Front Driveshaft, Transfercase, Universal Steering Joint, Rear Shock Mounts, Sway Bar, Links, Torsion Bar, Tune Up, Oil Changes, etc. This was all done by one of the best BMW guys in the area (who was recommended to me by a couple of BMW owners that I know) who has a lengthy service record for the car. When I talked to the mechanic, he said that the owner has dropped about 7k in the car which is why I'm concerned. The car is for sale at 3,500. The mechanic said that the previous owner had pretty much spent all there is to spend on this and it should be solid for a good many miles, though I'm not sure how invested he is in this as I would become a customer if i bought this car. The reason the owner gives for selling the car is that he is getting married soon and needs the room. A couple of pages back (66) Crustashio rattled off a list of things to check out that seems to be pretty much covered. So tell me BMW guys, am I being rightfully cautious or should I hop all over it before someone else dose.
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May 21, 2009 16:02
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Lost In Sock posted:So I'm a firm believer in: If it sounds too good to be true it most likely is. Which brings me to an 89' 325iX in my area that is for sale. The guy selling it has put new wheels and tires, front brakes, Radio and Antenna, Fan Clutch, Headlights, On Board Computer Upgrade Performance Chip, Belts, New Blower Fan, Battery, Chrome Gauge Trim, ICV Valve, Front Driveshaft, Transfercase, Universal Steering Joint, Rear Shock Mounts, Sway Bar, Links, Torsion Bar, Tune Up, Oil Changes, etc. This was all done by one of the best BMW guys in the area (who was recommended to me by a couple of BMW owners that I know) who has a lengthy service record for the car. When I talked to the mechanic, he said that the owner has dropped about 7k in the car which is why I'm concerned. The car is for sale at 3,500. The mechanic said that the previous owner had pretty much spent all there is to spend on this and it should be solid for a good many miles, though I'm not sure how invested he is in this as I would become a customer if i bought this car. The reason the owner gives for selling the car is that he is getting married soon and needs the room. A couple of pages back (66) Crustashio rattled off a list of things to check out that seems to be pretty much covered. So tell me BMW guys, am I being rightfully cautious or should I hop all over it before someone else dose. It's always good to be cautious when dealing with 20 year old cars. That being said, if this one truly has the service records to back up what the seller is saying, and it can pass a pre-purchase inspection at a BMW dealer or good independent, than it's worth considering. Just because someone drops $7k in repairs on a 20 year old car, doesn't mean its value increases by $7k. There is usually still something waiting to go wrong on old cars (how's the suspension? transmission? engine compression? you get the idea). People dump money into old cars because they feel some kind of attachment or think it's going to be a classic. Then, life events force them to sell. The problem is, the attachments they've made don't transfer well to a new owner. I'd look the car over and if it didn't look like a basket case, drove well, and overall looked cared for, I'd buy it.
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May 21, 2009 16:11
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Lost In Sock posted:So I'm a firm believer in: If it sounds too good to be true it most likely is. Which brings me to an 89' 325iX in my area that is for sale. The guy selling it has put new wheels and tires, front brakes, Radio and Antenna, Fan Clutch, Headlights, On Board Computer Upgrade Performance Chip, Belts, New Blower Fan, Battery, Chrome Gauge Trim, ICV Valve, Front Driveshaft, Transfercase, Universal Steering Joint, Rear Shock Mounts, Sway Bar, Links, Torsion Bar, Tune Up, Oil Changes, etc. This was all done by one of the best BMW guys in the area (who was recommended to me by a couple of BMW owners that I know) who has a lengthy service record for the car. When I talked to the mechanic, he said that the owner has dropped about 7k in the car which is why I'm concerned. The car is for sale at 3,500. The mechanic said that the previous owner had pretty much spent all there is to spend on this and it should be solid for a good many miles, though I'm not sure how invested he is in this as I would become a customer if i bought this car. The reason the owner gives for selling the car is that he is getting married soon and needs the room. A couple of pages back (66) Crustashio rattled off a list of things to check out that seems to be pretty much covered. So tell me BMW guys, am I being rightfully cautious or should I hop all over it before someone else dose. He may just care for the car. As brock said, I'd still get a PPI done (by someone who hasn't serviced it). For an iX in such great shape, 3500 does seem a little bit low. However a lot of the big AWD items are taken care of (transfer case, front driveshafts). You mentioned nothing about front suspension, make sure the struts are good, as again those are iX specific. The only other thing to take into consideration is the iX has a specific getrag transmission, so you don't want to drop 3500 then find out you have to track down a rare transmission. Otherwise you'll mostly be looking at regular e30/m20 issues which are well documented and usually not that expensive to fix. So if it passes a PPI, and has a well detailed service history, 3500 is a really good price for an iX. Also, I'm gonna crosspost this here because it's been bugging me: Crustashio posted:In the past week or so an odd starting issue has developed in my 88 BMW 325iX (e30). Turn it to start, it tries and tries but refuses to turn over. After about 5-10 seconds of this, trying to start it again results in the pretty much the same thing, but sometimes it will start at a really low RPM, somewhere around ~100. At this point it'll stall out and start fine after that, or climb up to regular idle speed. Idle is bouncy after that for a minute or so (but always has been), but the car drives fine after that. So far I've tested the AFM and the flapper valve works great. The air filter is brand new as well. I haven't been able to do an eletrical tests yet (no multimeter) but I'm really stuck here. I've also noticed a loud buzzing underneath the driver's side, near the rear wheel. It looks to me like the fuel lines run there, so I'm wondering if it could be something fuel related. I've also noticed a distinct gas smell on the passenger side of the engine. I've tried starting after priming the pump (turning it to "on" for 15 seconds, then starting) but that doesn't help. I'll probably end up just taking it in for service since I don't really have the time or know-how to full diagnose it, but any opinions are appreciated.
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May 21, 2009 18:33
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BraveUlysses posted:Not always true. O2 sensors are wear items and can operate poorly without throwing a CEL. Ive pulled the codes on it and nothing came up.
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May 21, 2009 19:36
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What's the consensus on E36 M3s with high mileage? I've noticed a handful in my area on Craigslist recently that are pretty much exactly what I want, and are about $2k cheaper than what I was expecting to pay, except they have really high mileage. For instance: http://austin.craigslist.org/cto/1171795001.html I've seen a couple like this in the past month. It has all the main fail areas replaced, it's a 5-spd, and it has pretty much all records going all the way back to the window sticker. However, it's got 170k+ miles on it. I can't afford this right now, so I haven't looked at it, but is this a good deal, should I see something similar in the next few months when I'm actually ready to buy?
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May 21, 2009 19:52
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Crustashio posted:Also, I'm gonna crosspost this here because it's been bugging me: Idle control valve? Thermostat? Cold start valve (did the M20 have that?) A buzzing from the fuel pump is OK as long as it isn't really loud and obnoxious sounding. You can always get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure coming off the lines. This will let you check the fuel pressure regulator as well, which is another source of problems. EDIT: The gas smell could just be a plugged/rotted out charcoal canister. Mine does that as well. Check and see if the charcoal canister is close to where you smell fuel.
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May 21, 2009 20:02
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Brock Landers posted:Idle control valve? Thermostat? Cold start valve (did the M20 have that?) A buzzing from the fuel pump is OK as long as it isn't really loud and obnoxious sounding. You can always get a fuel pressure gauge and check the pressure coming off the lines. This will let you check the fuel pressure regulator as well, which is another source of problems. ICV at least functions, as it hums when the engine is on. I haven't done the full test (remove the valve and test using a 12V source). I'm gonna go grab a multimeter from princess auto tomorrow to test a bunch of different electrical components. My car doesn't have a cold start valve - only older m20s on the etas and 87 325s have them.
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May 21, 2009 22:17
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Mr. Onslaught posted:Potentially stupid question but is there a way of telling whether or not your AC uses R134a? I'd like to recharge a '93 325i, and the best Googling I can come up with says that BMW made the switch to R134a "in 1993." AC: Check your compressor, there should be a sticker on top. The sticker on my R134a compressor is green. Worst case, get the BMW number of the compressor and look it up. Instrument: How "doesn't work"? Lights? Speedo? Also, switching cluster is easy, you just need to transfer over the little chip (code plug) that sits on the back of it, it stores mileage plus some info about the car, like VIN, final drive ratio, etc. At least that's how it is with my E34 (with digital mileage) Window: Take off the doorside and begin debugging. If the motor works, then it's a physical connection that's off. Armrest: Keep looking, I guess. You can almost always get a new original part from BMW, but IIRC, an armrest is something like $150, and it might only be made in black leather and grey cloth by now, not special colors. Pilsner fucked around with this message at 23:16 on May 21, 2009 |
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May 21, 2009 23:13
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Crustashio posted:ICV at least functions, as it hums when the engine is on. I haven't done the full test (remove the valve and test using a 12V source). I'm gonna go grab a multimeter from princess auto tomorrow to test a bunch of different electrical components. My ICV "functioned" (hummed) too, but my cold starts would always result in the car being tougher to start. When the engine caught, the idle would go up and then go way down, almost stalling the car, then go up, then down a little less, in a rhythmic cycling until it finally smoothed out. If I tapped the gas and let go, the idle would dip way low again, almost stalling out. When the car warmed up, things got better. I tried cleaning the ICV but that didn't help so I found a used ICV for $15 and it fixed all the problems. Check the coolant temperature sensor too and make sure it's within spec. Those are pretty cheap and easy to replace and are the source of lots of cold start issues.
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May 21, 2009 23:34
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Pilsner posted:Instrument: How "doesn't work"? Lights? Speedo? Also, switching cluster is easy, you just need to transfer over the little chip (code plug) that sits on the back of it, it stores mileage plus some info about the car, like VIN, final drive ratio, etc. At least that's how it is with my E34 (with digital mileage) About half the time I start the car, the dials on the gauges won't work. The mileage and everything displays fine, but the speedo/tach/temp gauges just dance up and down. I'm still on the hunt for a whole new cluster... Thanks for the info about the other stuff too!
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May 21, 2009 23:59
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Brock Landers posted:My ICV "functioned" (hummed) too, but my cold starts would always result in the car being tougher to start. When the engine caught, the idle would go up and then go way down, almost stalling the car, then go up, then down a little less, in a rhythmic cycling until it finally smoothed out. If I tapped the gas and let go, the idle would dip way low again, almost stalling out. When the car warmed up, things got better. I tried cleaning the ICV but that didn't help so I found a used ICV for $15 and it fixed all the problems. Check the coolant temperature sensor too and make sure it's within spec. Those are pretty cheap and easy to replace and are the source of lots of cold start issues. Hmm, that pretty much describes my exact issue. Can't hurt to order a new one I suppose.
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May 22, 2009 00:28
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multiprotocol posted:Where can I get that ghost sticker? That's from Ghostly International records. Their music rules too, you should check it out. http://www.theghostlystore.com/Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TGS&Category_Code=L
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May 22, 2009 17:15
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I'm thinking of documenting my driving school at Mid-Ohio this weekend (with bonus pics from the club races) and making a thread about it. Would there be interest in this, or would I be wasting my time?
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May 22, 2009 18:10
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speedtek posted:I'm thinking of documenting my driving school at Mid-Ohio this weekend (with bonus pics from the club races) and making a thread about it. Would there be interest in this, or would I be wasting my time? Nope - none of us want to hear about it or look at lots of pictures.
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May 22, 2009 19:34
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ab0z posted:Nope - none of us want to hear about it or look at lots of pictures. I hate cars, especially BMWs. please take pictures!
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May 22, 2009 19:45
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Nermal. posted:That's from Ghostly International records. Their music rules too, you should check it out. gonna slash your tires
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May 23, 2009 00:05
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It's about time to replace the clutch on my '02 325i. How bad is this likely to be on the wallet? I lack a proper garage so I'll be having a shop do it (and remove the CDV while they're at it). Also, what clutch should I get? My last car was a Probe with a Clutchmasters "Stage 3" clutch and that was a bit stiff for a daily driver, but I do want something more than what I have. Then again, I bought this with 62.5k on the original clutch, so for all I know if it had been brand new it might be exactly what I want.
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May 23, 2009 01:11
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Well. Some fuckhead decided that he was too good for red lights and destroyed my car today as I was making a turn. No doubt it is totaled... It really pains me to see it go, I had just finished a bunch of maintenance (brakes, new wheels, new tires), and it was in perfect condition and well taken care of. Farewell, car.  Someone post kittens or something...
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May 23, 2009 02:29
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Pissingintowind posted:No doubt it is totaled... Sincerely sorry for your lovely luck. If you have receipts for the new parts, be sure to submit them to the insurance company. Also, ready yourself for the E36 parts vultures to descend on you -- every enthusiast you tell will likely ask for something off that car.
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May 23, 2009 08:12
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Sterndotstern posted:Also, ready yourself for the E36 parts vultures to descend on you -- ...So Pissingintowind, wanna sell me the gauge cluster? Also, sorry for your loss, I've had an E36 be totaled before too.
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May 23, 2009 11:35
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Hello AI! Just picked up a '97 328is a few weeks ago and have been thoroughly enjoying driving the car so far. It is black (Schwarz II) I've had tons of fast cars so it's power doesn't impress me at all, but the way the power is delivered is amazing - I've never driven a straight-six and I have to say I have already fallen in love with how smooth it is. She is definitely no slouch although calling the car fast would be quite an overstatement. I bought the car with Bilsteins/H&R's already on it - and I am definitely impressed with the handling and driving feel of the car overall. I've never owned a bimmer before but I definitely "get" what people buzz about with these cars. Here she is:  Did the first mod to it today actually, called the golf tee mod. I had absolutely no idea these cars had a vacuum-actuated exhaust baffle - jesus German cars are so quirky. The mod didn't really add much except some extra decel overrun popping, but it was free and easy so I figured why the hell not. Got some parts coming in for the car soon. Needs a new steering rack (inner and outer tie rods too, might as well replace them while I'm down there), a new intake boot, and some TLC along with a tune-up. Exterior condition is great with a few dings here and there, but no major dents and the paint itself is rust free and in great shape. Can't wait to detail it thoroughly once I get some Depo headlights on it (I absolutely hate E36 headlights - quality is SOOOOO terrible). Looking forward to posting here! P.S. Occasionally my OBC likes to tell me my brake light circuit is malfunctioning, but when I check the lights they work fine when I pump the brake pedal, so I don't know what the gently caress. Is this a common problem with these cars? Gas Break Dip fucked around with this message at 18:11 on May 23, 2009 |
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May 23, 2009 17:50
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Gas Break Dip posted:Hello AI! Just picked up a '97 328is a few weeks ago and have been thoroughly enjoying driving the car so far. It is black (Schwarz II) I've had tons of fast cars so it's power doesn't impress me at all, but the way the power is delivered is amazing - I've never driven a straight-six and I have to say I have already fallen in love with how smooth it is. She is definitely no slouch although calling the car fast would be quite an overstatement. I bought the car with Bilsteins/H&R's already on it - and I am definitely impressed with the handling and driving feel of the car overall. I've never owned a bimmer before but I definitely "get" what people buzz about with these cars. New steering rack, eh? Perhaps you'll want to turn this into a mod opportunity and put a Z3 steering rack in your car. It is 2.7 turns lock to lock as opposed to 3.5. As for the brake light circuit thing, it is a common problem. The solution is to clean the brake light socket. Some corrosion will build up in there and cause the light to come on intermittently. Just take the access panel off, remove the bulb, and scrape the corrosion away from the socket. Super easy 5 minute fix. Also, I suggest if you want a little more get up and go, to invest in an M3 diff. Your 328 has a 2.93 open diff, M3s got 3.23 LSD, or 3.38 LSD on the autos. 3.38 is more rare, and sought after but the 3.23 is a nice performance bump for the 328 for ~$400.
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May 23, 2009 18:18
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Alright. So I remove my instrument cluster to replace some bulbs. I note that the cluster has a build date of 08-2002, so it's not the original. Interesting. I also notice that I'm missing a poo poo-ton of bulbs: some that don't have a light-up on the cluster (I'm assuming that these were euro-only features), some that were taped over (no wonder my parking brake light never worked!) and some that I just don't know. Below are the three missing bulbs that look like they have an open spot on the cluster.   I have no idea what those symbols even are, or if my car is equipped to use them. I ran out of the small bulbs so I left them blank for now. Anybody have any idea? My only thoughts are, "warning: gears!", "warning, you are turning in both directions!" and "toboggan mode"
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May 23, 2009 18:49
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1) I think this has to do with ASC, maybe wheel speed sensor? 2) Some Euro turn signal option. 3) Convertible Top
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May 23, 2009 19:09
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Gas Break Dip posted:Here she is: Nice that you've bought a BMW, but what on earth is the point of that mod? Growly exhaust at idle is the trademark of rice with fartcan muffler, whereas the trademark of a good car with a good-sounding engine is: silent at idle/cruising, roar (or similar) when flooring it. Remove that "mod" ASAP, please. CornHolio posted:The dual arrow thing is for trailer. According to my E34 manual is blinks with the normal turn signal, to help you remember you're towing, or something like that. Try finding a manual online if you don't have it in book form, it will explain stuff like that. PS: GIRLFRIEND
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May 23, 2009 23:13
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Pilsner posted:
more like BLURRY WIFE
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May 24, 2009 01:54
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FFFUUUCCCKKKK poo poo, saw the totaled M3 after I posted this. Sorry for your loss, man. rap music fucked around with this message at 02:32 on May 24, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 02:24
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Thats it, Im not driving my E36 any more this weekend. Jesus. Something else I noticed, the PO had pulled the red oil pressure light, for some reason. I replaced it. When my car is sitting idle, and I apply a load to the engine, like I'm rolling up a window, the oil pressure light flickers dimly. I'm assuming the PO was sick of looking at this and pulled it because he's retarded. Could this be a bad ground somewhere? Should I worry about my oil pressure? The light never comes fully on, and is never on when the car is not idling. edit: Looks like its a common issue. I might replace the sender and go from there. I really hope its not the oil pump. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 03:21 on May 24, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 02:59
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Carbon Deity posted:FFFUUUCCCKKKK Sorry for your loss, too. What happened here? Does anyone have any tips on dealing with insurance companies? I'm expecting to go through the idiot driver's, since he clearly hosed my poo poo up, but just in case, (NJ loves assigning no-fault) what can I expect? I have receipts for everything that I've put into the car. A friend also had his E36 M3 totaled earlier this year in another unfortunate accident. He had the same model year as me, except with less options, and more miles, and I know the amount they gave him. Is there any other information I should arm myself with? edit: Most likely I will be buying the car back to part out, assuming the price is good (what is a typical buy back price?), so if anyone wants anything, let me know. Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 05:35 on May 24, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 05:32
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Pissingintowind posted:Sorry for your loss, too. What happened here? I was behind a huge Home Depot rental truck, merging onto a major road from a stop. He started pulling forward and looked like he was taking off, so I looked over my shoulder to see if anyone was coming. I guess I took off in first before I was fully turned back around because the instant I saw ahead, my vision was full of truck rear end. I must have hit him at about 5-10mph, but since the F350 has this solid steel exterior frame welded and bolted to the back, it left a bit of a ding. Stupid as hell, don't remind me! About your situation, I can only say that ordinarily, you don't have to deal with his insurer at all. You pay your insurer so they will do it for you.
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May 24, 2009 05:53
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Carbon Deity posted:I was behind a huge Home Depot rental truck, merging onto a major road from a stop. He started pulling forward and looked like he was taking off, so I looked over my shoulder to see if anyone was coming. I guess I took off in first before I was fully turned back around because the instant I saw ahead, my vision was full of truck rear end. Ugh, I've done this same thing before. Fortunately for me, it was in a Fiat Punto. Regardless, I feel your pain.
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May 24, 2009 05:55
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Gas Break Dip posted:P.S. Occasionally my OBC likes to tell me my brake light circuit is malfunctioning, but when I check the lights they work fine when I pump the brake pedal, so I don't know what the gently caress. Is this a common problem with these cars? It's probably the aftermarket tail lights, if they aren't OEM. rap music fucked around with this message at 06:35 on May 24, 2009 |
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May 24, 2009 06:32
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Pissingintowind posted:edit: Most likely I will be buying the car back to part out, assuming the price is good (what is a typical buy back price?), so if anyone wants anything, let me know. I'd like to buy your gauge cluster/instrument panel for sure, maybe your armrest (what color is it), and maybe your front seats even  (where do you live?)
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May 24, 2009 13:12
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Mr. Onslaught posted:I'd like to buy your gauge cluster/instrument panel for sure, maybe your armrest (what color is it), and maybe your front seats even I live in Teaneck, NJ; the car is currently being held in Hillsborough, NJ. Everything in the car besides what got destroyed is minty-mint. The seats are black, heated vaders. The armrest is black, along with the rest of the interior.
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May 24, 2009 17:05
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My little sister needs a car. Being the great older brother I am, I have decided to hook her up. This car looks decent, probably a respray, interior looks pretty good. Car Fax is clean...for whatever that's worth. I was going to offer 1,800 for it.   I know it will probably need a new cooling system (500?), timing belt (200?), and new tires. Looking to budget around three grand getting it to be somewhat reliable. Hopefully the suspension is up to snuff, if not, hopefully her mom can help her out. Is there anything I'm missing here? Any other big costs you see coming? Yes, I know its an automatic. Maybe if she doesn't total it I'll buy it back from her and swap in a manual.
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May 24, 2009 21:59
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Thanks to BMW's recent ad campaign I've just now become aware of the new Z4 E89. They call it the new Z4 roadster but it looks like it has the wide-body design of the M Coupe model rather than the roadster. Here's the old Z4 (E85):  And the new Z4 (E89):  I just have to whine for a moment about how ugly these new Z4's are compared to the original E85's. Apparently BMW didn't like the original sleek and simple design because it was somehow too 'girly' for the BMW image. Now they go with this goofy wide-body look complete with unnecessary side-scoops behind the engine. The E89 gains 300 ~ 500 LB over older models and gets worse acceleration for all comparable engine sizes.  So unless someone buys the twin-turbo package the car is actually a downgrade compared to older models. And acceleration aside, extra mass affects all aspects of handling. I can only imagine what 10 ~ 20% more mass means to the responsiveness of the new Z4.Why must BMW do this to the car I love? 
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May 24, 2009 22:28
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