|
Doctor Zero posted:Of course, this means that I'll have to drain and drop the tank to even see what the problem is. I think you're right about rust, perhaps from packed dirt holding moisture on the surface. My friend's Toyota leaks around the flange where the filler pipe attaches, as corrosion has pushed the seam apart so the rubber seal doesn't. Something like that where the pump fits sounds likely, and probably wouldn't affect the performance of the pump.
|
#
?
May 22, 2009 16:12
|
|
It doesn't look too hard. Anyone who ever swapped fuel tanks have any tips?
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 13:04 |
|
|
Wrangler issue. Just bought a 94, soft top. The black part that holds the soft top onto the doors is on all of the other areas on the vehicle, but is missing on the back of the jeep, below the window. This leaves the back soft top of the window unattached and open at all times. Just the bottom of the back window, nothing else. I can't figure out what the name of that black molding is that holds the soft top onto the hard bottom door area is.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2009 16:20
|
|
|
InitialDave posted:Yes (though not on a GC). They're heavy, awkward lumps of metal to manoeuvre when you're under the car, but it's perfectly doable. An extra pair of arms will help. I think you're on to something. There is a gasket for the fuel pump - that could be the culprit. I suspected the filler pipe at first, but now that I've been under there I'm fairly sure that's not it.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2009 17:15
|
|
|
Tremblay posted:Mind tossing out real numbers? I was out the door (tax, licence, etc.) for less than MSRP.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2009 19:28
|
|
|
DILLIGAF posted:This sounds very similar to the sound I was getting from the rear of my Vette. Turns out it was a u-joint, or, more specifically, one of the bearings. One of the finger bearings had developed a flat spot and started dragging, binding against its neighbors and giving them flat spots as well. The clicking was the joint passing over those spots at low speed and the chirping was, I thing, the sound of those scraping on the inside of the race. Yeah! I like this idea, it would be even cheaper than the wheel bearing to fix, now that I have learned that I have to replace my whole wheel hub if I want a new wheel bearing. Fortunately I'll be around a bunch of Jeep people this weekend so it should be resolved in short order. Thanks for the tip. Have a good Memorial Day too 
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2009 21:15
|
|
|
DILLIGAF posted:Well.... The cons are that the 3.8 is pretty gutless and I imagine that it is even worse on the heavier Unlimited. Also, re the e-disco, Rather than flipping it, you can get a bumper with a skid plate to cover it. That's the route I took. BrainCloud posted:Also, you will love your Rubi. I just rolled over 10K miles on mine and couldn't be happier.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2009 22:31
|
|
|
Gavitron posted:'Sup 10k buddy! Mines almost hit 35K. I guess Ive been lovin mine a bit too much!
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2009 23:39
|
|
|
Gavitron posted:I've got an '08 JK unlimited Rubi, and I chirp the tires from a standing start on freshly rained roads. No complaints about low-end torque here. I'll echo a poster above though, that if you shift gently, at lowish RPM, then the drive-by-wire lets things get a little soft before you get to the power. But if you take the revs higher before shifting, you can maintain a steady power curve from 1st to 5th pretty easily. My previous vehicles are a Vette and a Dakota with the 5.2 so it feels pretty gutless. Don't get me wrong, I love my Jeep and I never expected it to be a speedster. I shift well into the powerband (never beleive in babying vehicles) but I had hoped for more power from this motor.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2009 00:13
|
|
|
How does it compare to the 4.0L HO in the xj ?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2009 01:04
|
|
|
DILLIGAF posted:My previous vehicles are a Vette and a Dakota with the 5.2 so it feels pretty gutless. Ditch the Rubicon and get a US issue turbo diesel J8 http://www.aev-conversions.com/vehicles/j8_milspec.php They're only doing a 100 or so a year though. If I didn't get the H1, I'd probably get one of these. Did jeep ever release a diesel wrangler? Or was it just the liberty/cherokee?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2009 02:01
|
|
|
No, not a diesel Wrangler. Some countries in South America ordered M38 and M38A1 (CJ5s) with diesels though. EDIT: I remembered. I think there were two options. I know one of them was a little Perkins 4 cylinder. The other one may or may not have been an option (I've never seen any of these, and only one M38 with the Perkins - from Bolivia I think), but I know it was used on US military FC Jeeps- was a 3 cylinder 2 stroke diesel. I have no idea who made that (Detroit Diesel maybe but I have no clue really)... Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 02:23 on May 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 23, 2009 02:13
|
|
|
BigKOfJustice posted:Ditch the Rubicon and get a US issue turbo diesel J8 Those are sick, sick, SICK jeeps. If I had money to burn, I would totally get one. AEV Website posted:By the end of the full test cycle a JK is falling apart at the seams and is otherwise now junk, a simluation of an entire vehicle's life in one series of tests. The J8 was designed to survive that same course... three times.
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2009 06:54
|
|
|
I don't know who at Chrysler the AEV guys had to sleep with to get access to all the cool toys, but drat, I love it. If the restructuring interferes with their sales partnerships and skunkworks projects, I'll be sad. 
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2009 07:56
|
|
|
BigKOfJustice posted:Did jeep ever release a diesel wrangler? Or was it just the liberty/cherokee?
|
|
#
?
May 23, 2009 14:51
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:No, not a diesel Wrangler. There are Turbo diesel JK's in some countries over seas.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2009 02:51
|
|
|
ilmmaf posted:Wrangler issue. Just bought a 94, soft top. The black part that holds the soft top onto the doors is on all of the other areas on the vehicle, but is missing on the back of the jeep, below the window. This leaves the back soft top of the window unattached and open at all times. Just the bottom of the back window, nothing else. It's called a tailgate bar or retaining bar. You can probably find them cheaper at a junkyard or on ebay; TJ bars up to '06 will work also. http://www.quadratec.com/products/11033_301.htm Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 03:42 on May 25, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 25, 2009 03:39
|
|
|
Philip J Fry posted:It's called a tailgate bar or retaining bar. You can probably find them cheaper at a junkyard or on ebay; TJ bars up to '06 will work also. Saved Me. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
May 25, 2009 05:42
|
|
|
I am trying to do a 3-4" lift on my ZJ. I've been mostly perusing https://www.jeepforum.com trying to read threads and get information and such. There aren't any threads on that site that are just basic information on lifts. I was wondering what type of things are required when lifting a Jeep up. I figure if I buy a full kit, I would get everything I need but it seems like it might be cheaper to just buy the parts necessary for the lift and skip the parts I wouldn't. Any suggestions for brands and kits would also be appreciated. What does the 'R&P' mean on this speedometer re-gearing site? http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/speedometerregearing.htm Also, I was wondering what the squealing sound I get coming from the engine is when the Jeep is idling. It is intermittent and only occurs when I am not pushing on the gas.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 04:56
|
|
|
chocmilkrush posted:What does the 'R&P' mean on this speedometer re-gearing site? http://www.nagca.com/grandtech/speedometerregearing.htm Ring & Pinion.. *differental gear ratio* Check your belt, it might be worn or a bit loose.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 05:01
|
|
|
Alright. I have settled on a Jeep for my next car. I have owned a Cherokee briefly, I will probably be trading in my GTI on this car, if I can't sell it privately. I want to stay under 10,000. I see both nice 99-2001 Jeep Cherokees (XJ) and also 2000-2004 Grand Cherokees (WJ) for the same price. I was a little surprised, I would have thought the WJ would be a lot more expensive. Help me out here... pros and cons of XJ vs WJ? I've tried to find information comparing them online, but it hasn't been easy. Obviously the Cherokee is more popular with enthusiasts and off-roaders, but drat those WJs look nice, can tow more, etc. What worries me some about them is the increased complexity. I'm guessing they are going to be less reliable and harder to work on? Is that true? If so I will probably go with the XJ.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 11:54
|
|
|
chocmilkrush posted:I was wondering what type of things are required when lifting a Jeep up. I figure if I buy a full kit, I would get everything I need but it seems like it might be cheaper to just buy the parts necessary for the lift and skip the parts I wouldn't. Any suggestions for brands and kits would also be appreciated. This differs from kit to kit, but when you start to get to lifting above 2" on a ZJ, I think you start running into issues with lots of stock suspension parts. Some kits may skip over essential items like an adjustable front track bar, without which your front axle will be off-center. Some kits won't include properly matching shocks and will depend on you to find the correct length of shock. Brake lines also often need to be extended. Most times the kit manufacturer will tell you what other things you will need that aren't included in the kit, but sometimes they seem to think that it's not that important. I don't have much exposure to ZJ kits, but OME is probably the manufacturer to provide the most complete kits available. There is a slight price premium to their parts, but when you buy a kit from them, you really do get all of the parts that you need. Keep asking questions on JeepForum or others to find people that purchased one or more of the kits you're looking at, and see what else they needed. incredibull fucked around with this message at 17:46 on May 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 17:43
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:Alright. I have settled on a Jeep for my next car. I have owned a Cherokee briefly, I will probably be trading in my GTI on this car, if I can't sell it privately. I want to stay under 10,000. It depends on the toys you want. The Grand Cherokees are more about creature comforts than the Cherokees. The GC will still be fine for occasional off-roading, and I can say from experience they tow well too. I've had 4 Grand Cherokees and while, yes, more toys means more poo poo to break, I really haven't had any problems with the electronics giving me problems. My GCs have been very reliable and dependable. My current one has some issues, true, but I knew that before I bought it, which is why I got a good deal. It all depends on what you're looking for. The GC Limited has some pretty awesome features like memory seats and mirrors and stuff like that, but if you want to save some money, the Laredos are just as comfortable in my opinion. The Cherokees are a little too sparse for my taste, but some people like that.
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 18:55
|
|
|
I've had a 2000 Cherokee Sport (I-6, AW4) since 2004. I love it deeply but it's worrying me a bit. Last year I picked up (inherited) a boat and towed it around locally OK. This past weekend, after installing a transmission cooler, I towed it up to upstate NY (steep hills) I had smoke coming from the front brakes after barely being able to stop car + boat down a pretty steep (like 8% grade I would guess) hill that ended at a red light. My rear brakes refused to lock up and my foot was on the floor. The boat + trailer weigh in somewhere around 2200lbs or so (It's a 19'6" center console on a galvanized karavan trailer), and it was just me and wife and less than 200lbs of crap in the jeep. Trailer as no brakes and no mounts for brakes (I'd need to buy a new axle). The hitch is a basic Class 3 (it does not balance or distribute). There's plenty of power to drag the boat around (even up and down those drat mountains in the Adirondacks) but stopping has been a bit of a concern. I just replaced the rear drums and shoes last summer (like 10k miles ago). Would different shoes/pads work better? Could the rear brakes not be engaging fully? Anything I can do to improve stopping power without spending a fortune? The only 2 other issues I have are a flaky window lock button (anyone else have to fix this?) that thinks it's engaged most of the time and the standard leaky A/C (probably the evap like everyone elses). Is the evaporator like part #1 for Jeeps? "I'm gonna build me a Jeep! Hand me that evap to get started! Everything else will go around it."
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 21:20
|
|
|
Stock brakes are awful. That's just the way it is. A quality set of pads/shoes goes a long way, and make sure that the rotors and drums aren't warped/pitted at all. I've found a good combo with Adaptive One ceramic pads in the front and Napa Premium shoes in the rear. However, I tow a boat of similar weight to yours, and even after upgrading from OEM pads, the braking is still terrible when towing. I give it huge braking distances and rely a lot on engine braking to slow things down. If you're going to be towing that boat over long hauls, I really think you should invest in a trailer brake setup. Even for short hauls, the amount of wear on those small brakes on the Cherokee will be drastically reduced with a good electric trailer brake. There are some serious brake upgrades you can do to the Cherokee if you want to go that route: Front axle: -Vanco "big brake" kit. Replaces stock rotors with larger units, as well as a dual-piston caliper and stronger steering knuckles to accept the modified calipers. Rear axle: -If you have a D35 rear axle: Grand Cherokee axleshafts /w discs. If you have a Dana 35 rear axle, you can upgrade it to disc brakes simply by steaing the axleshafts and outer brake hardware from any Grand Cherokee with a D35. -If you have a Chrysler 8.25 rear axle: There is a disc brake conversion kit produced by TSM: http://www.naxja.org/html/techarticles/825discConversion.htm -Convert to Ford 8.8 /w disc brakes from an Explorer. This is probably the easiest option overall, and in the end you get a nearly bulletproof axle that will handle anything you can throw at it. You're very likely to find a complete axle in a junkyard with matching gear ratio (most 8.8s found in Explorers are 3.73 /w LS). You will have to have a shop modify the spring perches to make it fit to the Cherokee. Entire brake system: -Vanco "Hydroboost" kit. Replaces the stock brake booster with a unit that is augmented by hydraulic pressure provided by the power steering pump incredibull fucked around with this message at 22:28 on May 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 22:24
|
|
|
Thanks for the info. How do I determine what rear axle I have? Rotors and drums are both new but are standard NAPA parts. I was hoping to avoid having to do trailer brakes as they are really not needed on a boat/trailer that size - and they add expense and complication to the setup (I do both fresh and salt water launches). I borrowed an F150 last year for a longer haul and that had no problem stopping it. Obviously it weighs a whole lot more than my Jeep though. fordham fucked around with this message at 23:47 on May 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 23:40
|
|
|
FYI, here's a Jeep mod for any platform: http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=102133
|
|
#
?
May 26, 2009 23:58
|
|
|
Is it typical for an XJ to have a little bit of a wheezy/whiney sound around/above 3000rpm? I test drove a 2000 XJ, AT, 4.0 today and apart from the sound and a few other issues it was really nice. The dealer also said he would give me $1500 and the Jeep in exchange for my car (and I didn't even negotiate the price of the Jeep yet). It was a Sport. The front speakers did not work or were not connected (when you moved the fade all the way to the front, no noise). No serious cosmetic problems, paint is not faded or pitted. The other issue that concerns me is that the trans felt like is was shifting a little bit high, but I've also not been in an automatic for quite a while, especially not a 4 speed like that. Engine bay was *clean*, overall the whole car looked and drove pretty nice (I think it needs a little bit of an alignment. Steering is tight and it doesn't pull at all, but going straight, the steering wheel is a bit to the left. If you ignore it though, you can't tell there is anything weird about it.) The Jeep is like Maroon or something, i forget what it is called. Looks NICE.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 00:15
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:Is it typical for an XJ to have a little bit of a wheezy/whiney sound around/above 3000rpm? I test drove a 2000 XJ, AT, 4.0 today and apart from the sound and a few other issues it was really nice. The dealer also said he would give me $1500 and the Jeep in exchange for my car (and I didn't even negotiate the price of the Jeep yet). This is the same Jeep I have - I always thought it shifted a little low, I'd rather it waited a bit longer to upshift. My front driver side speaker hasn't ever worked, the passenger one works though. Jeeps and door wiring issues seem to be pretty common to find. Mine is holding up very well for being 9 years old now. I've only got about 90k miles on it but there's only a couple of tiny rust spots on the body and the underside is in really good shape overall. I drive in New England as well so it's been heavily coated with salt every winter for the past 5 years I've owned it. Regarding the "whine" - without hearing it and comparing it to my own I wouldn't be sure. The 4.0 is a noisy, rough engine though.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 00:47
|
|
|
fordham posted:This is the same Jeep I have - I always thought it shifted a little low, I'd rather it waited a bit longer to upshift. The drivers door speaker not working is common. My 99 XJs drivers speaker was dead when I got it too. I tapped into the wire behind the kick-panel and routed it back to the speaker. Works! Seems that the flexing of the harness b0rks the speaker wires. On the 4.0? Both my 99 and 92s 4.0 are smooth at idle and through the RPMs. I *do* have some lifter noise on my 92, but with over 225K miles on the clock, it's gonna have some lifter issues. Still runs great and pulls hard though.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 01:17
|
|
|
fordham posted:Thanks for the info. How do I determine what rear axle I have? Only the D35 c-clip and the 8.25 were used on 00's. If you have ABS, it's definitely the 35 as the 8.25 didn't have ABS as an option. Then there's always the diff comparison: http://www.cdmfabrication.com/bbpics/axlechart.jpg The housing of the 8.25 has a very flat bottom edge while the D35 is a bit more rounded to match the cover.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 01:20
|
|
|
incredibull posted:
You can also use the ZJ disc's on the 8.25 http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=607435
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 01:31
|
|
|
fordham posted:This is the same Jeep I have - I always thought it shifted a little low, I'd rather it waited a bit longer to upshift. Yeah, I'm going to drive some other ones and see if they have the whine. The only Cherokee I've driven had a lift, knobbier tires, and a flowmaster, so if there was whine I don't remember it - but probably wouldn't be able to hear it either. It is almost a whistle... I suppose it is easy to hear because the car is really quiet on the inside. Not too much engine, exhaust, road, or wind noise - which is good. I know stock VR6s have hollow camshafts which would whine/howl above certain RPMs and generally sound stupid, so I'm optimistic that it is just how they sound. Tomorrow I am going to test drive a 97 5sp for the same price (same miles as well and while 5sp are really rare and I don't necessarily need a manual on this - I trust man-trans to outlast and have fewer issues that slushboxes, especially once they are over the century mark. I've driven few autos that didn't feel like something was a little slow/off/weird in a car with more than 100,000mi. With stick shifts if the clutch and the TO bearing are OK and the synchros are OK (all can be determined pretty well right off the bat), I feel fairly certain I won't be rebuilding/replacing the trans in the next 100k miles.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 02:38
|
|
|
Slack3r posted:The drivers door speaker not working is common. My 99 XJs drivers speaker was dead when I got it too. I tapped into the wire behind the kick-panel and routed it back to the speaker. Works! Seems that the flexing of the harness b0rks the speaker wires. I should get around to trying this. I hate taking the panels off the doors cuz I always break or gently caress up those plastic connectors. Slack3r posted:On the 4.0? Both my 99 and 92s 4.0 are smooth at idle and through the RPMs. I *do* have some lifter noise on my 92, but with over 225K miles on the clock, it's gonna have some lifter issues. Still runs great and pulls hard though. Ok, well, it's noisy and rough compared to my wife's Honda Civic
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 03:17
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:Tomorrow I am going to test drive a 97 5sp for the same price (same miles as well and while 5sp are really rare and I don't necessarily need a manual on this - I trust man-trans to outlast and have fewer issues that slushboxes, especially once they are over the century mark. I've driven few autos that didn't feel like something was a little slow/off/weird in a car with more than 100,000mi. With stick shifts if the clutch and the TO bearing are OK and the synchros are OK (all can be determined pretty well right off the bat), I feel fairly certain I won't be rebuilding/replacing the trans in the next 100k miles. The AW4 transmission is probably the best automatic in existence. It's pretty much bulletproof and is of higher quality than the manual. I'm not a personally mechanic but my cousin is a Jeep mechanic (over 20 years) and has never seen one fail under even "hard" use. They only fail when people really wreck em (no fluid, towing ridiculous loads, etc). Sadly they don't use em in the GCs.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 03:21
|
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:
Get a 5 speed, even though I've never had a problem with autos in Cherokees, my last one had an AX15 and besides needing a throwout/slave cyl (It was one unit in the 91, I think they all had external slaves by 94), That thing stood up to ridiculous abuse. I ran it for thousands of miles with only half as much gear oil as it needed, and due to the bad throwout I was grinding gears and forcing it into gear all the time and it still never complained and shifted like a champ with almost 250,000 miles on it. The only non-throwout problem it had was when I replaced the engine at 240k (I hydrolocked it), When tightening up the trans mount bolts, the actual transmission case cracked (I have no loving idea why). I got a friend of mine to weld the crack up, put some JB weld on it to keep it from leaking, and then drove it another 5k miles with no problems.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 04:00
|
|
|
Yeah, I've heard they are rock-solid. Its good to know that the AW-4 is a good unit as well, though. I did a little research and it seems that the slightly higher/lower than normal shifting is often due to a TPS that needs cleaned/reset.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 04:37
|
|
|
I brought my new (to me) Jeep GC into a local mechanic for a sanity check. He didn't even charge me for taking 30 minutes to look it over and confirming/denying my diagnosis!  1. The gas tank is a strange situation. He can smell gas, but thinks the car should be failing pressure tests and giving me a warning if it has holes. Either way, he agrees I'll have to drop it and see. 2. I took the thing to him because I was worried I might have a leaking seal in the front differential. He said it's hard to tell, because I have a leak in the valve cover.  He advised I fix that and then see what else might also be leaking. He thought it was engine oil I was seeing, not trans fluid or anything else. That would actually be swell because a valve cover gasket looks fairly easy. 3. He thinks the radiator leak is just the drain plug. Before it was sold, the previous owner probably changed the coolant (because of how nice it looks) and probably didn't tighten it up. Since he wasn't charging me, I didn't mind if he didn't try to tighten it, so I'll do that myself. Looks like it's not as bad as I thought! EDIT: Apparently it's fairly common for the fuel pump gaskets to go out on the WJs. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 23:14 on May 27, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 27, 2009 22:19
|
|
|
Jack_Handey posted:Get a 5 speed, even though I've never had a problem with autos in Cherokees, my last one had an AX15 and ...
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2009 00:08
|
|
|
ManicJason posted:Eh... my first AX-15 lost its third gear synchro and then completely shat itself at 130k. I bought it with 97k, so I guess previous owners could have been hard on it, but I wasn't really. With that situation it was almost certainly something the previous owner did, not you. It is pretty hard to destroy a manual transmission in 30k miles unless you are actually *trying* to kill it. And this is coming from a former Saab 900 Turbo owner. I went to look at another AT Jeep today instead of driving all of the way to Boulder. This one is a pretty much loaded Classic. It is silver/gray with matching wheels. Everything is color-keyed and looks really nice. Even the spare matches the other 4 alloys (it has some curb rash so I think the PO bought a new one to replace it and kept that as the spare). Factory fog lights, overhead console with MPG, ET, etc, etc. The faceplate to the aftermarket stereo is missing (although they might have it at the dealership). Even the owner's manual is included. I think this one has a different transfercase than the Sport I drove earlier. THis one has 2W, 4H part time, 4H FULL TIME, N, 4L. I didn't know that was available on Cherokees (I thought only GCs) and it is a big selling point for me to be able to drive around in the mild snow/slush in essentially AWD (vs 4x4 where you can't turn well in parking lots, etc). Also, this 4.0 did not have any whine noise like the previous one (so that one is out), the transmission shifted better, and in general the whole car was in nicer shape. The driver's seat actually have a couple of small rips on the sides, but I'm guessing finding a replacement seat is not impossible. Good news is despite having 20k less miles, being in better condition, no engine whine, and being a Classic vs Sport the dealership said they would MATCH the other dealer's deal where they give me the Jeep + 1500 for my car. I am going to look at a Sport tomorrow that only has 61,000 on it (the first one was 121, this one today was 99). There is only a small price premium and the dealer is not really as reputable. It seems weird to go with dealers in this case, but similar condition/miles trucks privately are going for a lot more (as least asking), and they are offering me good money on my trade, about 90% of what I think I could get privately after a lot of hassle. EDIT: This classic had cruise control too, which is semi-important as I will be driving this halfway across the country and then half way to California all this summer alone. Disciple of Pain fucked around with this message at 00:25 on May 28, 2009 |
|
#
?
May 28, 2009 00:23
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 11, 2024 13:04 |
|
|
Disciple of Pain posted:Factory fog lights, overhead console with MPG, ET, etc, etc. The faceplate to the aftermarket stereo is missing (although they might have it at the dealership). Even the owner's manual is included. My factory fog lights rusted out in 2005 I think. I replaced them with aftermarket fog lights and those are now both completely corroded and broken. I hate you New England. Disciple of Pain posted:I think this one has a different transfercase than the Sport I drove earlier. THis one has 2W, 4H part time, 4H FULL TIME, N, 4L. I didn't know that was available on Cherokees (I thought only GCs) and it is a big selling point for me to be able to drive around in the mild snow/slush in essentially AWD (vs 4x4 where you can't turn well in parking lots, etc). The SelecTrac transfer case is nicer than the CommandTrac, though I believe servicing it is a bit more expensive. But Full Time 4WD is nice. My Sport only has Part Time and Low (in addition to 2wd of course), and bucks like a bastard if it's getting traction. Disciple of Pain posted:Also, this 4.0 did not have any whine noise like the previous one (so that one is out), the transmission shifted better, and in general the whole car was in nicer shape. The driver's seat actually have a couple of small rips on the sides, but I'm guessing finding a replacement seat is not impossible. A nice ripped drivers seat adds character to your Jeep. Disciple of Pain posted:EDIT: This classic had cruise control too, which is semi-important as I will be driving this halfway across the country and then half way to California all this summer alone. Don't fall asleep! I enjoy traveling in my sport - seats are comfortable and it handles nicely. I hope you find a good one.
|
|
#
?
May 28, 2009 01:36
|
|