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Lately I've had it in the back of my head that its time to do a complete tune and check-up on my '01 but I'm not sure how I should approach it. I bought it with ~5k on it and the used dealership claimed all the necessary maintenance was done, however, I don't have anything I received with the bike except for the title. It has somewhere between 12k and 14k on it now but I don't know exactly(I've gone from naked to S back to naked with a Vapor). I don't ever intend to sell it so exact mileage is unimportant to me. I know its time to sync the carbs which I'm pretty sure I can do myself. I'd like to install new jets while I'm dealing with the carbs also. How intimidating can valve adjustments be? is there anything else to think about at the 12k maintenance interval besides the normal fluids and such? I'm comfortable tearing into any other part of the bike but I've never been into the engine myself and I've only been inside my old 302 with my grandfather standing over my shoulder. I also have a haynes manual but I've found at times it can be a little unclear causing headaches trying to figure out their wording to get things "right." Last question, if the valves aren't adjusted what kind of damage can occur in normal situations?
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May 28, 2009 20:06
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waptang posted:Friday and Sunday it's supposed to be nice in Indy if you can pick it up either of those days. Saturday is supposed to rain like you said. Yea my friend is limited to the weekend to drive up, and I am limited to Saturday for the title transfer at the bank. I have been through some short downpours while riding before, but nothing for an entire trip. I think the worst part is the fine mist after the rain has stopped from car tires. That poo poo doesnt want to bead off the visor as much.
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May 28, 2009 20:16
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MoonCricket posted:Lately I've had it in the back of my head that its time to do a complete tune and check-up on my '01 but I'm not sure how I should approach it. I bought it with ~5k on it and the used dealership claimed all the necessary maintenance was done, however, I don't have anything I received with the bike except for the title. It has somewhere between 12k and 14k on it now but I don't know exactly(I've gone from naked to S back to naked with a Vapor). I don't ever intend to sell it so exact mileage is unimportant to me. You don't need to "change jets" unless you've put a full exhaust system on the bike. The 6k maintenence interval on SVs includes valve checks, with adjustments typically taking place every 12k-18k, depending on riding style and useage. If the valves aren't adjusted for long enough, you'll be down on power, the bike will have a hard time starting while hot, and eventually you could end up with the valves and pistons hitting one another when a valve hangs open.
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May 28, 2009 20:21
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Z3n posted:You don't need to "change jets" unless you've put a full exhaust system on the bike. I've been getting bad gas mileage, somewhere around 30mpg, so I thought it was probably too rich. It has been hard to start a few times after I stopped shortly to get gas or whatever. I thought it was getting flooded but I very well may be wrong. I just got it off the stands the other day and its running a bit worse than it had been. It's hard to keep it from stalling at idle without keeping it around 2k rpm. I think to start with I'll sync the carbs and check the valves if I can. What tools are needed for the valve adjustment? Can I expect to have it back up and running after a long weekend with someone knowledgeable helping? My buddy was a bike mechanic before he moved here so I'm going to try to get him to help.
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May 28, 2009 20:42
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If you're only getting 30 mpg on an SV, there's something way out of tune. I'm a throttle happy fatass riding what is probably the heaviest SV ever made (2nd gen S with ABS) and the lowest mileage I've ever seen is about 46 mpg.
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May 28, 2009 21:23
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T minus 24 hours  Got my cash from the bank, he has the title dealt with through his bank, everything is going peachy. EDIT: What should I check over on the bike before I ride off? Obviously going to check air pressure, oil and gas level before I go anywhere, but are there any sv650 specific things that might need checking? Shouldn't have to worry about fairings or the like considering it is a naked style. When I do the initial inspection of the engine and transmission, what is the normal 1st gear lurch like? On my zx600 I have some play in the cush drive and it kinda does a small lurch going into gear while stopped. Will almost new sv650 do anything like this? dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 16:03 on May 29, 2009 |
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May 29, 2009 14:56
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When my bike is at normal operating temp, there's really just a quick little popping sensation when I shift from neutral to first. If the bike is dead cold, the noise is a bit louder and the bike does a tiny jump. No big deal in either case, though.
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May 29, 2009 16:14
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I really hope the Jardine full-exhaust isn't too loud. I really dont want my neighbors to hate me :-/
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May 29, 2009 16:22
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ranathari posted:No, this is you buying a bike that needed a lot of work. Pretty much everything in your list of replacements should have been obvious from an inspection or a test-ride, especially tyres and chains. I don't understand why you led the sentence off with "No."
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May 29, 2009 16:46
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I'm still on the factory tires (whatever Suzuki put on the 07's) and the rear is starting to show a square profile. So I'm starting to look into new tires for both ends. I'm looking for something that has good grip, wet and dry. Tread life isn't much of a concern--I ride frequently, but I don't actually put all that many miles on the bike, maybe a couple hundred per week. So if the tires last only 3000-4000 miles, that's fine. Price isn't too big of a deal either. Cheaper is always better of course, but I will gladly spend the extra money for high quality stuff. Also, I am starting to corner much more aggressively and I would like a tire that feels very stable and handles predictably when leaned way over. The bike never sees the track. Street only. There seem to be a shitload of sport tires on the market and I really know nothing about any of them. Are there any particular models I should be looking at?
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May 29, 2009 18:25
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MourningGlory posted:When my bike is at normal operating temp, there's really just a quick little popping sensation when I shift from neutral to first. If the bike is dead cold, the noise is a bit louder and the bike does a tiny jump. No big deal in either case, though. Try holding the clutch in for longer, then shifting to first. From what I heard is that a sprocket inside the Transmission is spinning when the clutch is engaged in Neutral, and shifting to first stops it really quick. On higher performance bikes this sprocket is much larger and causes the bike to jolt. Holding the clutch in longer, for around 10 seconds, reduces the jolt significantly.
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May 29, 2009 18:42
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Jack the Smack posted:Try holding the clutch in for longer, then shifting to first. From what I heard is that a sprocket inside the Transmission is spinning when the clutch is engaged in Neutral, and shifting to first stops it really quick. On higher performance bikes this sprocket is much larger and causes the bike to jolt. I think you might be referring to the clutch plates sticking to the friction plates when the motor is cold. As the engine warms up they have more play when the clutch is engaged, but still transmitting some power through fluid friction. On cold motors though the plates can be stuck together when first taking off.
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May 29, 2009 18:46
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MourningGlory posted:I'm still on the factory tires (whatever Suzuki put on the 07's) and the rear is starting to show a square profile. So I'm starting to look into new tires for both ends. I'm looking for something that has good grip, wet and dry. Tread life isn't much of a concern--I ride frequently, but I don't actually put all that many miles on the bike, maybe a couple hundred per week. So if the tires last only 3000-4000 miles, that's fine. Price isn't too big of a deal either. Cheaper is always better of course, but I will gladly spend the extra money for high quality stuff. Bridgestone BT16s are amazing. I've never slipped in the dry on them in turns, even scraping my footpegs at 80mph. I also over inflated them, reducing my traction even more. Had I properly inflated them I would have more traction over painted surfaces and in the rain. My friend uses Michelin Pilot Power 2CTs, which are actually the same as the Bridgestone, although there is a slight difference noticable if you do track riding. The price difference for my bike was $50 though between the two due to "currency conversion" (Bridgestone is Japanese, Michelin is French)
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May 29, 2009 18:47
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Jack the Smack posted:Bridgestone BT16s are amazing. I've never slipped in the dry on them in turns, even scraping my footpegs at 80mph. I also over inflated them, reducing my traction even more. Had I properly inflated them I would have more traction over painted surfaces and in the rain. What the hell? There is absolutely a difference between the Bridgestones and the Michelins. Anyways, besides him still having no idea what he's talking about, the overall point is still correct: When it comes to modern tires from major tire providers, you can't go wrong with anything. Just because you don't put a lot of mileage on, may as well go with whatever. I'm really partial to the Pirelli Diablo Corsa 3s. Good wear, good stick, good traction in the rain. They like higher pressures, around 34/36 for street use.
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May 29, 2009 20:06
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Z3n posted:What the hell? There is absolutely a difference between the Bridgestones and the Michelins. Such as?
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May 29, 2009 20:11
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Jack the Smack posted:Such as? Tire profile, tire construction, sidewall construction, siping, rubber type and process, on the rears the BT16 has 3 compounds rather than the 2 of the 2ct, best pressure to run for tire life or traction, overall wear characteristics, response to suspension changes, blah blah blah. They are both black and round though.
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May 29, 2009 20:16
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Z3n posted:They are both black and round though. Sounds like my ex-wife! *ahem* Anyone have tips on how to get the rubber stopper thing out of the clip ons (what the bar end screws into). So it goes Bar end - Long screw - through rubber stopper - tightens into nut on the other side. The rubber stopper is locked in place in about the middle and the nut on the inside appears to be oriented the wrong way and not able to be reached. Any good way to pull this out? Edit: The answer is: Persistence. FlerpNerpin fucked around with this message at 20:54 on May 29, 2009 |
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May 29, 2009 20:28
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So I'm eyeballing the Michelin Pilot Power 2CT. Is this too much tire for a streetbike? Realistically, is it even possible to ride hard enough on a public road to justify the tire? Would I be better off with the Pilot Road 2CT?
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May 29, 2009 22:57
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MourningGlory posted:So I'm eyeballing the Michelin Pilot Power 2CT. Is this too much tire for a streetbike? Realistically, is it even possible to ride hard enough on a public road to justify the tire? Would I be better off with the Pilot Road 2CT? No, kinda, maybe. The best way I can think of to explain tires is like this: You're never going to "outride" a modern sport touring tire on the street, just like you're never going to "outride" a modern sportbike on the street. But that doesn't mean that you won't enjoy the additional traction, feel, and feedback of a street/track tire. It's more comfortable to ride a tire at 50% of it's capability over riding it at 90% of it's capability. If you're interested in learning to be a faster rider now, and that's your primary goal as a rider, get the 2ct. The stickier tire with more traction will be forgiving as you make mistakes, will help you learn to trust the feedback from the tires, etc. If you're just riding to cruise/commute and have fun and maybe hit up a twisty road every so often for some safe grins at anything up to double the posted speed limit, get the road2, as it'll last 2 times as long and the difference in feel, stick, and feedback won't be something that you'll notice or care about. Spend the money you save from not having to replace the tire in 4k on gas for a trip 
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May 29, 2009 23:50
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Thanks for the insight, Z3n. The Pilot Power it is, then.
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May 30, 2009 01:18
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I have very nearly doubled the mileage on my '03 SVs since I bought it last spring. I rolled over 15k miles yesterday on the way back home, and I bought it with around 8k. I checked the valves this winter at around 13.5k, and at 15k tonight I did an oil change, plug change, checked and adjusted the clutch and chain, and gave it a wash. Last night when I got back, my chain seemed like it had way too much play, but when I checked it today the slack was 25mm, exactly perfect for the manual's 20-30mm spec. I did have my weekend camping gear loaded on the bike, which is saddlebags, a tail bag, tank bag, sleeping bag, and my tent, a total of about 30-35lbs of gear in addition to me (150lbs). The chain was in good shape when I lubed it last week, no binding links, rust, etc. Any ideas? I expect at 15k I'm getting close to a chain replacement, and I'll definitely be due by the end of summer since I expect another 6-8k on the bike by then. Thanks!
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May 30, 2009 04:50
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Does it go slack and tight at different points through the rotation of the chain? If so, the chain needs to be replaced. Loading up the bike will tighten the chain, however. Edit: Parting one of my Gen 1 SVs: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3119867&pagenumber=1#post361386608 Z3n fucked around with this message at 05:11 on May 30, 2009 |
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May 30, 2009 05:01
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Going to look at two SV's today. Swanage is going to ride them for me, since I don't have my M yet (MSF is next week). First one (guy posted two ads): http://baltimore.craigslist.org/mcy/1184161374.html http://baltimore.craigslist.org/mcy/1184146822.html Cliff notes: -2005, Original owner -Not very specific (no actual mileage, no pics) -Claims it has been in his garage and never seen a drop of rain -"Low miles" -Yellow (I actually hate yellow, but have a yellow bugeye WRX already) -Wants $3,200 ($600 under KBB) I plan on showing up with $3,000 cash and see if I can get him to get it inspected. Second one http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/mld/mcy/1193432194.html Cliff notes: -1999, 20k miles, Original owner -Upgraded front suspension, corbin seat, and some spare parts -Will need tires soon -Guy seems like he cares about the bike and is much easier to communicate with than the first one -Wants $2,500 ($2850 KBB) If the yellow one doesn't blow me away, I'll come up with a figure to toss at him (and hide the rest of my cash in the car). I really wish these people would just get their bikes inspected. I don't own a truck/trailer so getting them to the mechanic myself would be a pain. Wish me luck!
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May 30, 2009 13:31
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Doubleposting. Bought the '05 for $3,000 cash. It had 129 miles on it. The guy bought it in CA, never rode it, shipped it here, never rode it. It's pretty cherry except for a broken blinker stalk. We just drove it back to Dwight Eisenhower's (formerly swanage, apparently) house and put half again as many miles on it. More pics later. Only had my iPhone handy. And yes, it matches my Buttersaurus WRX in the background. 
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May 30, 2009 20:53
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mike fictitious posted:Doubleposting. I rode it home for mf since he's still not licensed and it was pretty incredible considering how little the guy wanted for it. The gas was pretty clearly ancient and had that wonderful varnish smell. Everything else about it is pretty great. And the exhaust note fills me with envy after starting up my FZ6 and listening to the two of them side by side.
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May 30, 2009 21:00
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mike fictitious posted:The guy bought it in CA, never rode it, shipped it here, never rode it. CA like California? Aren't CA models always different than the "standard" due to emissions requirements or something? Anyway you got a great deal on that bike, congrats and I hope you don't need to clean anything out too soon, varnish sucks etc etc. Also have fun FINISHING the break in haha. p.s. just get flush mounted blinkers, problem solved B)
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May 30, 2009 21:26
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teknicolor posted:CA like California? Aren't CA models always different than the "standard" due to emissions requirements or something? Anyway you got a great deal on that bike, congrats and I hope you don't need to clean anything out too soon, varnish sucks etc etc. Also have fun FINISHING the break in haha. They are, but it's usually not a big deal, just some extra tubing that can be stripped off. Most modern bikes are all "CA" bikes now, with evaporative emissions controls and all of that. That's a fantastic deal. 129 miles, drat!
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May 30, 2009 22:01
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Welp, anyone want my Jardine exhaust? Really loud, especially under heavy throttle input at lower RPM. Blapblapblapblapblap basically Overall the trip back from Indy was pretty interesting. I thought my zx600 had a small windshield and barely any wind protection. This thing is like I am going all Titanic into the wind on the freeway. Suspension is nice and soft compared to my ZX which is a nice thing, less jarring on the road. Only complaint is the drat seat of rear end rapage. I can't stand it. I thought it felt nice at first, but the shape forces all of the pressure right into my rear end on the lower edge of my pubic area. I need something aftermarket or I am going to go crazy, lol. Overall I love the thing. Good power control, not too jerky, seating position is EXCELLENT with the upright bars. Once I get the seat itself worked out I imagine this bike will be perfect for long distance cruising. Also the HID light is awesome. According to my friend it is annoyingly bright as the bike bounces up and down, and painful when the shutter is up for brights mode. Cutoff beam is a perfect bar going across from the projector, can't wait to take it out on the road tonight. Few questions: Seat, seat, seat... who sells one that is comfortable for someone that is 6' 2" and 240lbs What brand of sliders are the best for price/performance I am at 11.7k, can the valve job wait +/- 2k? Is the kickstand supposed to be impossible to move in one fluid foot motion? EDIT: Almost forgot the pictures :iamafag:  HID lighting is the best thing EVER! 
dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 23:03 on May 30, 2009 |
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May 30, 2009 22:39
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dietcokefiend posted:HID lighting is the best thing EVER! Hell yea.  My SV-1000-S has two of them. Friends on their commute say I blind them in their mirrors in the middle of the day. :O
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May 30, 2009 23:12
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dietcokefiend posted:Is the kickstand supposed to be impossible to move in one fluid foot motion? Probably gunged up with crap. Take a toothbrush and some paraffin to the spring to get it squeaky-clean then re-lube it and it'll swing out smoothly again. Jack the Smack posted:Hell yea. HIDs piss me the gently caress off because I've never seen anyone adjust the drat things properly, so they end up blinding me when they approach from the opposite direction. Osram Nightbreakers are a massive improvement over the stock bulbs without being as anti-social as HIDs.
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May 30, 2009 23:20
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ranathari posted:HIDs piss me the gently caress off because I've never seen anyone adjust the drat things properly, so they end up blinding me when they approach from the opposite direction. Osram Nightbreakers are a massive improvement over the stock bulbs without being as anti-social as HIDs. No kidding. I wonder if anyone makes a self leveler that reacts fast enough for a motorcycle. first thing tonight is getting the light aligned a bit lower so it won't clip small sedans in the rear view mirror as much 
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May 30, 2009 23:24
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Congrats on the new bike, I like it. I'm not sure I like how the headlight looks since I'm so used to the stock headlight. My riding buddy calls it the butthole headlight.dietcokefiend posted:Only complaint is the drat seat of rear end rapage. I can't stand it. I thought it felt nice at first, but the shape forces all of the pressure right into my rear end on the lower edge of my pubic area.
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May 30, 2009 23:41
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I've heard both the Corbin and the Seargent seats are good.. with a nod towards the Seargent I think.. I still have the stock seat myself although I really want to get rid of it. Anyways, I've heard the Suzuki gel seat is total crap.
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May 30, 2009 23:50
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`Nemesis posted:Anyways, I've heard the Suzuki gel seat is total crap. I have heard the same, worse than the stock seat.
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May 30, 2009 23:53
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Instead of dropping $300 on an aftermarket saddle, I just carved mine down with an electric carving knife (like your mom uses on the turkey at Thanksgiving) and shaped it flatter and lower. Then I had it recovered professionally with marine grade black vinyl by a local guy. It looks great and fits me perfectly, since I just kept going until I had it exactly right for my body's shape. It has the added benefit of making it easier for me to flatfoot the bike at stops (I'm rocking like a 28" inseam, so I need all the help I can get).
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May 31, 2009 02:42
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Sounds like a decent method, might try that out if my rear end doesnt adjust to the seat after a week or so. Chain related question. Just checked the chain tension on my new sv and it was pretty darn tight. Maybe .5-.8 range. I loosened it back into the specification range of about 1.1. I see no indication of abnormal wear on the front or rear sprocket. Should I worry about my drat countershaft bearing now  ?
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May 31, 2009 02:49
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dietcokefiend posted:Chain related question. Just checked the chain tension on my new sv and it was pretty darn tight. Maybe .5-.8 range. I loosened it back into the specification range of about 1.1. I see no indication of abnormal wear on the front or rear sprocket. Should I worry about my drat countershaft bearing now I am convinced you have some sort of bike hypochondria.  The chain is probably fine. Perhaps the previous owner adjusted it before you bought the bike and screwed it in a little tight?
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May 31, 2009 04:04
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8ender posted:I am convinced you have some sort of bike hypochondria. Nobody said being too perfect was bad for anything :-P well except for that crazy double dare dude, he was fuckin nuts.
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May 31, 2009 04:08
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dietcokefiend posted:well except for that crazy double dare dude, he was fuckin nuts. Marc Summers is on medication now and doing well over at Food Network's Unwrapped.
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May 31, 2009 04:57
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The SVRider people seem to like the greatdaytoride.com guy's work on their seats. Doing his thing on the rider seat is something like $70 plus shipping through him.
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May 31, 2009 19:19
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