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If I were you, I'd just make one thread to chronical whatever you do. It doesn't have to be a big project thread. Some people will probably disagree but they don't have to read it, and I would say it is a better place than this thread.
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May 31, 2009 17:37
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I'm trying to add freon to my 98 jeep grand cherokee and i'm having the damndest time trying to find the "low pressure port" to add my magical cooling crap. I found the high pressure side near the coolant tank, but it;s like 95 psi when i connect the tube so i'll just as soon not blow up the can of stuff... anyone know where the low side is? i've looked all over the engine bay but can't find it EDIT: VV yeah it's that r134 stuff. penga86 fucked around with this message at 21:51 on May 31, 2009 |
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May 31, 2009 20:19
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I hope you're using 134A and not real Freon (which you can't buy, but hopefully you're not using an old can from your garage).
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May 31, 2009 21:43
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penga86 posted:I'm trying to add freon to my 98 jeep grand cherokee and i'm having the damndest time trying to find the "low pressure port" to add my magical cooling crap. I found the high pressure side near the coolant tank, but it;s like 95 psi when i connect the tube so i'll just as soon not blow up the can of stuff... You found it—why it's reading 95 psi is another matter altogether. Low side port is in the rear of the engine bay by the coolant tank, high side is directly off the compressor. Edit: You're reading psi markings and not kPa, right? 95 would be reasonable by kPa if you were low on R134. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 22:41 on May 31, 2009 |
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May 31, 2009 22:38
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I'm looking for a little help on my 92 XJ. There are two very distincly different "clunks" coming from the front end: 1. Right (passenger-side) front end clunks when compressed/decompressed. Very noticeable and you can feel it in the floor. I can't see anything loose or broken. 2. Clunk on tight turns at low speeds coming from the diff. I assume that means it isn't unlocking correctly. Any ideas on a fix?
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Jun 1, 2009 01:29
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Check out your ball joints. Jack the rig up by the axle and see if you can wiggle the wheel by grabbing it at 12 and 6 o'clock. While you're doing that, have someone look at the inside of the axle to see if anything's moving. Are you sure the second clunk is coming from the diff? Also, do you have a locker in the front? If you have one a LockRight or similar locker, it will click and pop a lot while you're driving, you can't avoid it. If it's some kind of air or electric locker then it could be an issue with it not disengaging. If you don't have a locker at all, it could also be your wheel bearings or even the U-joint in your axle. Pull the diff cover off (you might as well change the diff oil anyway) and see what it looks like on the inside. If you don't have a locker then your spider gears might be hosed up, although this usually makes a LOT more sound than a "clunk". If you can crawl under it without jacking it up, then try looking under there while the suspension is compressed after you jack it up and examine it with the wheels hanging freely.
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Jun 1, 2009 04:40
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RexSS345 posted:I'm looking for a little help on my 92 XJ. There are two very distincly different "clunks" coming from the front end: 'Sup '92 XJ buddy? I have a '92 project XJ along with my '99 daily driver XJ. My '92 is more fun to drive for some reason. Clunk is probably the LCA (lower control arms). You can see them extending from the "frame" to the front axle. The rubber bushings are probably worn out or missing. Lay under there and have someone or several someones bounce the front up and down. The "clunk" on low speed turns is probably your outer u-joints. The front axle does not have a "disconnect" on the 92s. My '92s front u-joints were flopping around in the cups and at first sounded like angry weasels when I turned sharply in 4WD in the snow. $20 each to have new ones pressed in including the cost of the joints. You need to pull the calipers, rotors and bearing hub assembly to slide the stub axles through the knuckles. The hub bearings are held in with 3 20-point bolts. I had great success hammering a craftsman 1/2 drive 1/2 inch 6 pointer on them and using a short pipe to bust them loose. Need to smack the socket off the bolt when you get it out though. The hub bearings usually need to be lightly hammered to remove. A can if PB Blaster will be your friend here. Start soaking ALL the bolts a few days before you start. Clean the knuckles where the hub bearings fit of all the rust and use Anti-Sieze on the surfaces. You WILL be replacing the hub bearings at some time and the anti seize WILL be your best friend next time. 
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Jun 1, 2009 09:01
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I'm about to replace a wheel bearing on my YJ, so I've been doing some research. One trick I learned for getting the hubs off of there is to loosen the bolts about 1/8-1/4", and then put a socket in there that fits between the bolt and the C-knuckle thing, and then crank the steering wheel to pop it loose.
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Jun 1, 2009 11:06
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penga86 posted:I'm trying to add freon to my 98 jeep grand cherokee and i'm having the damndest time trying to find the "low pressure port" to add my magical cooling crap. I found the high pressure side near the coolant tank, but it;s like 95 psi when i connect the tube so i'll just as soon not blow up the can of stuff... To add to the previous posters replies, your evaporator is probably shot and it's unlikely this recharge will last long. Soon enough your A/C lines will be full of air instead of coolant and the only way to recharge it will be through having the system evacuated and recharged at a shop. If you really love your A/C, replace the evap. Recharging it is going to get less and less effective. I'd love to know if anyone on these forums has any tricks to sealing up a Jeep evaporator. If you take it to a dealer it'll run you ~$1200 because it's buried behind the dash (it's a 6-8 hour job purely because of where it's located).
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Jun 1, 2009 14:36
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fordham posted:I'd love to know if anyone on these forums has any tricks to sealing up a Jeep evaporator. If you take it to a dealer it'll run you ~$1200 because it's buried behind the dash (it's a 6-8 hour job purely because of where it's located). You can sawzall through the HVAC box and then JB Weld/glue/epoxy/duct tape it back together. I'm not a proponent of this method, but some people would rather do it that way than pull the dash. It's honestly not horrible to just pull the dash if you've got a day to kill. Or a garage in which to leave your half-disassembled Jeep.
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Jun 1, 2009 16:12
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Molten Llama posted:You can sawzall through the HVAC box and then JB Weld/glue/epoxy/duct tape it back together. I'm not a proponent of this method, but some people would rather do it that way than pull the dash. My cousin (Jeep Mechanic for >20 years) did a ton of these and wouldn't pull the whole dash, rather he'd detach the passenger side of it and bungee it to the roof rack to hold it out of the way. Still took him hours and hours though.
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Jun 1, 2009 18:41
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My wife got me THIS for my birthday and I got it all installed this afternoon. Kind of expensive, but it works as advertised. Top is rated at 150lbs for additional storage. It is water resistant and there is no way to reach inside unless you open the gate first. It sits about an inch higher than the side/tailgate. The top can lift and/or be pulled off once the tailgate is open and the front (behind the seats) comes off with 4 thumb-screws if you want to carry something that won't fit the box.   There is still enough room behind the front seats to put a full sized army duffle bag or a couple of large suitcases. 
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Jun 2, 2009 00:17
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Haha, I guess you can do without the window buster while the top's off. Cool deck lid though. Does it have holes or something that you can put a bungee net onto so you can keep stuff on there without it flying off?
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Jun 2, 2009 10:58
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Clamwacker posted:Haha, I guess you can do without the window buster while the top's off. Cool deck lid though. Does it have holes or something that you can put a bungee net onto so you can keep stuff on there without it flying off? No, but I am going to fix that today...  The company makes some tie-down solutions for this, but they are overpriced. I will make my own. DILLIGAF fucked around with this message at 13:39 on Jun 2, 2009 |
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Jun 2, 2009 13:35
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Nice eye loops on the tub rims. Did you set those up yourself or does the JK have those things stock? I'm probably going to do that today so I can have some cargo bungee anchors for an upcoming roadtrip.
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Jun 2, 2009 16:10
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incredibull posted:Nice eye loops on the tub rims. Did you set those up yourself or does the JK have those things stock? I'm probably going to do that today so I can have some cargo bungee anchors for an upcoming roadtrip. I just got some plastic washers to protect the paint and stuck some eyebolts in the holes used to bolt down a hard top. Just some rudimentary tie-down capability. Now that I have the security box, I am going to install tie-downs along the edges of that top deck instead.
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Jun 2, 2009 17:22
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Do the '09s really come with a glass breaker?
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Jun 2, 2009 18:03
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Braincloud posted:Do the '09s really come with a glass breaker?
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Jun 2, 2009 19:09
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Braincloud posted:Do the '09s really come with a glass breaker? No. It has been in just about every vehicle I have owned since my wife bought it almost 20 years ago. Never needed it, but it doesn't take up much space and has the belt cutter, airbag popper and a rape whistle....er... emergency whistle. 
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Jun 2, 2009 22:10
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02 TJ Sport 4.0L I broke the stalk for the headlight controls so now my fog lights stay on unless I put the switch in a very specific position that it likes to slip out of. Is there a fuse for the foglights that doesn't interfere with the headlights? I assume so since not every Jeep has factory foglights. Is it in the fusebox behind the glove compartment or the fusebox in the engine bay(I assume it's a fusebox since it's directly next to the battery and has wires coming in and out of it.) Once I solve that, where the hell do I get a new headlight control stalk and how do I go about connecting it?
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Jun 4, 2009 03:18
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The battery cables on my truck have been increasingly unreliable/corroded lately. I'm talking about me randomly having to take them off the battery and roughly polish using sandpaper or one of those cylindrical wire brushes in order to get my truck to start. Considering it's 19 years old, spent most of its life in Hawaii (salty air) and likely has the original cables, I was thinking about replacing them. Is this a relatively easy/fast do-it-yourselfer? I don't have too much free time but could probably find one afternoon this weekend. Edit: Also, I'm going to have to do my rear seal in my t-case at some point. Mieneke or wherever only charges about $50 for this procedure so they say, but I'm interested in doing things I can do with my current (extremely minimal) setup to save money and also gain the experience. Could I replace this seal with just a jack, providing it's properly raised? Sits on Pilster fucked around with this message at 06:33 on Jun 5, 2009 |
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Jun 5, 2009 06:29
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Sits on Pilster posted:The battery cables on my truck have been increasingly unreliable/corroded lately. I'm talking about me randomly having to take them off the battery and roughly polish using sandpaper or one of those cylindrical wire brushes in order to get my truck to start. Considering it's 19 years old, spent most of its life in Hawaii (salty air) and likely has the original cables, I was thinking about replacing them.
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Jun 5, 2009 13:41
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Since it is apparently monsoon season in NC I noticed an option I didn't know my jeep had, a passenger foot bath. I assumed that by it being a 06 this problem was fixed. Have they not fixed this? Should I take it to the dealer or do one or both of the fixes? At A/C condensation line fix and/or the cowl drain clean out? For the cowl clean out do I just unscrew the black screws on the cowl? Could the water be coming from some place else?
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Jun 5, 2009 14:07
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Since it is apparently monsoon season in NC I noticed an option I didn't know my jeep had, a passenger foot bath. Ask the dealer. They might blow out the A/C lines for free if it's under warranty (At least they did for one of my jeeps).
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Jun 5, 2009 16:33
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About to pull the trigger on an 09 Rubicon unlimited soon. I'm scared that I'm gonna buy it, and being in Canada, the government injected $250 million for warranty claims into Chrysler will be used up soon and my 5 year warranty will run out within a few months. Basically, I am afraid that I will be buying a new vehicle with no warranty due to Chrysler's situation. Is this a real consideration ? I'm pretty much getting all my info from vancouvermustangs.com which is a Mustang and anti-jew website. Also, how nice is the mygig stereo unit thing ? I have an iPhone and want to be able to plug it in like a dock and have the song titles come up on screen, is this possible ? It seems that these units are pretty pricey at $1800 for the option considering it doesn't even have outputs for an extra amplifier, and was made in 2007 so its sorta outdated.
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Jun 5, 2009 23:21
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I'm selling my 99 XJ 4x4 because I'm moving back to FL (from NY), I don't need 4wd in FL so I'll be looking to buy another XJ or WJ 2wd when I get there. My dilemma is XJ or WJ.....I already know quite a bit about XJ's but need to know more about WJ's.....What is the "best year" WJ and what kind of issues can I expect from one? How are the transmissions, do they use the same auto trans as the XJ? I also plan on towing a camper and it seems that the WJ is more suitable for towing, is this accurate? I'm also assuming the brakes on the WJ are better since it has rear disks. I'd like another XJ, but WJ's are WAY more plentiful and right around the same price so I think I'd be able to find a nice one pretty easily
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Jun 6, 2009 02:08
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leica posted:I'm selling my 99 XJ 4x4 because I'm moving back to FL (from NY), I don't need 4wd in FL so I'll be looking to buy another XJ or WJ 2wd when I get there. There are some pretty gnarly trails by Ocala that require 4WD. You know, you don't need 4WD in Florida, unless you're looking for places where you need it.
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Jun 6, 2009 14:48
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Yeah well I don't plan on doing any off roading. If I didn't need something to tow a camper I probably wouldn't be getting one. That being said, if I run across a really clean low mileage 4x4 I'm not going to pass it up. I just don't want to drag my XJ with me back to FL. Besides, I can get good money for it up here since it's a FL car and every other XJ for sale up here is rusted to poo poo.
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Jun 6, 2009 15:16
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Since it is apparently monsoon season in NC I noticed an option I didn't know my jeep had, a passenger foot bath. My '08 JK appears to have this passenger footbath too - What are these fixes you mention?
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Jun 6, 2009 20:03
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Veins McGee posted:02 TJ Sport 4.0L There is a relay in the under-hood distribution box that will disable the fog lights completely. Most parts stores will stock or can order the entire multi-function switch unit (both headlight/signal switch and wiper switch) for around $60-100. Autozone appears to have the headlight switch side only, but to replace that you have to probably separate the entire multifunction switch case, which also houses the wiper switch on the right hand side. The two switch halves assemble into a single unit. If you're going that far, you might be able to just repair the switch. I had issues with mine going on at random and fixed it by disassembling the case. Unless you've broken it in a serious way, the problem is usually this: the foglight switch has a long rod that extends through the length of the stalk. The end of the rod has a ball shape to it. This end then operates a small hinged piece of plastic that rides on a spring-loaded conductor. After a while, the small hinged piece of plastic gets worn down by the ball-end of the foglight switch, and because of the increased tolerance, begins allowing the conductor to short and turn on the fog lights when the switch is in the off position. You can carefully disassemble the switch assembly - there are several torx screws and lots of plastic assembly clips. Once inside, when you find the hinged piece of plastic that the foglight switch rides on, remove it and build up the surface of the piece with a heavy-duty epoxy until it's mostly flat again. I just used a simple "Five Minute" two-part epoxy. Let it dry out as long as possible. Then, lubricate the ball end of the foglight switch and the face of the hinged plastic piece with dielectric grease - why this wasn't done from the factory, I have no idea. By this time, it's also about time to clean off all of the contact points inside of the switch and lubricate with dielectric grease. If you hate working with small parts, I would avoid doing any of this. incredibull fucked around with this message at 17:15 on Jun 8, 2009 |
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Jun 8, 2009 17:07
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Just got some 31" tires and wheels to mount them on both off of craigslist. Painted the bumpers and side panels. I am liking how my Jeep is coming along. Eventually I am going to get a 3.5" Front>Rear lift. Here are some crappy camera phone pics:  
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Jun 8, 2009 17:09
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chocmilkrush posted:Just got some 31" tires and wheels to mount them on both off of craigslist. Painted the bumpers and side panels. I am liking how my Jeep is coming along. Eventually I am going to get a 3.5" Front>Rear lift. Looks good, but I am partial to black wheels. On a related topic (lifts) Was going to install the Rubi springs and shocks (from an Unlimited Rubicon with Hard top and Towing package) on my stock height X model this weekend, but decided to go ahead and order my lift, do it all at once. Ordered the Rough Country 2.5" w/ shock adapters. Should give me about 3.5"-4" when I am done. Never done a lift before, anything I should be aware or? Tricks or pitfalls? This lift kit doesn't come with bump-stop extensions, and with the extra height, I would think they are a good idea. Anyone got a favorite vendor or type?
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Jun 8, 2009 17:45
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Ok, my wife and I decided we might splurge and go for the Wrangler four door unlimited...... I'd like to know how they are as a daily driver, and if they are comfortable on road trips. We plan on doing lots of camping. I've read reports of a "death wobble" on Edmunds, is this a common problem? Also trying to decide if used or new is the way to go, looks like there's an incentive that if you buy a new one you can get write off the tax, and am I right to assume the lifetime warranty doesn't transfer?
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Jun 8, 2009 22:16
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leica posted:Ok, my wife and I decided we might splurge and go for the Wrangler four door unlimited...... It's loving awesome is what it is. I have a 2008, had it just a little over a year, about to hit 12,000 miles. I don't know anything about a death wobble, I think the fastest I've ever driven is 85 and it wasn't doing anything bizarre. The longest trip I've taken it on was only an hour and a half one way, and it was fine for me and my wife (except she always complains about how I drive, but that's not really the car's fault). The backseat is pretty cramped, but I stuck my muscled up older brother next to my two kids and no one seemed to complain. And no, the lifetime power train warranty does not transfer. I figure that you might be able to get a better deal buying new just because the dealerships are so hard up for business, but that may not be the case. Not sure how it is in other states, but in Texas anyway, you can write off sales tax, and a big ticket item like a car can help you with deductions next year.
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Jun 8, 2009 23:18
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carlcarlson posted:And no, the lifetime power train warranty does not transfer. I figure that you might be able to get a better deal buying new just because the dealerships are so hard up for business, but that may not be the case. Not sure how it is in other states, but in Texas anyway, you can write off sales tax, and a big ticket item like a car can help you with deductions next year. Looks like the average price for an unlimited with the "s" package and hard top is 30K sticker.....What are people getting them for these days? [edit] Did a little research and it seems the norm is about 5k/6k off sticker.....Can anyone comfirm this? I'd be better off with a new one getting the warranty and tax break. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jun 9, 2009 |
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Jun 8, 2009 23:29
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leica posted:I've read reports of a "death wobble" on Edmunds, is this a common problem? It shouldn't be on a JK. Death wobble comes primarily from severe component wear or a godawful alignment. If you test drive one with death wobble, this is not a good sign. quote:Also trying to decide if used or new is the way to go, looks like there's an incentive that if you buy a new one you can get write off the tax, and am I right to assume the lifetime warranty doesn't transfer? Lifetime doesn't transfer. If it's a Certified Pre-Owned vehicle, you can upgrade to lifetime from the CPO 6/80, though. You can also add a Chrysler service plan to any vehicle under 4/48, CPO or not. As much value as Wranglers hold, you may well be better off with new.
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Jun 9, 2009 02:52
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leica posted:Looks like the average price for an unlimited with the "s" package and hard top is 30K sticker.....What are people getting them for these days? I've only put 6000 miles on mine but it's my daily driver. No issues other than it's a bit bumpier and noisier than your average vehicle. It's at least twice as fun though so it's worth it. My soft top just arrived today so I can't wait to go topless!
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Jun 9, 2009 03:01
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Grater posted:Yeah, I recently bought a new 09 X with a few options and got about 5k off sticker. In addition I got 0% financing; well they offered 0% but it turns out the 09's weren't included with that offer so I actually got 2.6%. I was going to walk at that point so they took took the finance costs out of the price on top of what I'd already gotten off the price. So how did you go about it? Did you tell them right off the bat, hey I want this Jeep for 5k less than sticker, that's what everyone else is getting? I'd be paying cash, not sure if that would help or hurt me. Jesus, I really didn't plan on spending this much on a Jeep, I need to test drive one first to make sure it's worth spending more than twice what a used WJ would cost me. Not to mention I need to make sure we'd want to keep it for a LONG time to take advantage of the warranty.
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Jun 9, 2009 03:26
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It was pretty much just a series of me saying no. We went to the dealership that day to take a look at 2008's, I thought I could score a heck of a deal on one since we were well into the 09 model year. They didn't have an 08 that had the features I wanted and none of their dealers did either so they asked if I'd be interested in an 09. They had an 09 with all but one of the options I wanted (the stereo but that is easy to take care of). They kept offering me deals and I kept saying no. Eventually I let them run my credit to see what sort of financing was available, when they came back with 0% and all the rest of the offers they had made I couldn't say no. My wife and I signed on the dotted line. That's when they found out the 0% wasn't available on the 09, I wasn't going to budge so we started heading out, they asked us to wait one more time to see if they could get me the 0% on the 09 but instead they came back with the 2.6% and subtracting the finance charges from the price. I figured I could pay it off early and get an even better deal so I went ahead and bought it. After all that I'm pretty sure I could have wrangled a better deal but I was satisfied. I still am, I love the Jeep! The most fun vehicle I've ever owned was a 1990 Cherokee, this Wrangler is everything I loved about the Cherokee but I can also take off the top and it's new with a warranty.
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Jun 9, 2009 03:42
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| # ? May 22, 2024 06:43 |
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I got an '06 Rubicon this afternoon, and I am starting to fantasize about installing a loudspeaker in the engine bay and getting my jeep stuck in a ditch. This thread has done awful things to me.
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Jun 9, 2009 05:01
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