|
Doctor Grape Ape posted:What condition are your motor mounts? Fans catastrophically failing like that is usually indicative of shot engine mounts and possibly transmission mounts. You nailed the root cause, but it wasn't a mount failure, it was the mount hardware. The drivers side mount is completely missing the bottom nut/washer that holds the mount to the frame side. No clue how it happened, the threads look fine, and all the other mount hardware (engine and transmission) is tight. At least I know the point of failure and don't have to worry about a repeat performance once I put it all back together.
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 01:09
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 23:29 |
|
|
T plus 2.5 months on ownership. I'm on vacation 45 minutes away and the water pump on my E36 shits the bed. It's my fault for not replacing it straight away. Still, loving PLASTIC? Sigh. Only required one favor of a friend, and I found a pump locally. Easy swap, actually.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 06:05
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:T plus 2.5 months on ownership. I'm on vacation 45 minutes away and the water pump on my E36 shits the bed. You got off lucky. Now don't forget to replace the rest of the cooling system: radiator, hoses, t-stat, expansion tank, and fan clutch. Anything other than a total replacement is asking for more trouble. It sucks, but you can then rest assured you won't have any more cooling woes for another 60k-90k miles.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 13:13
|
|
|
Brock Landers posted:You got off lucky. Now don't forget to replace the rest of the cooling system: radiator, hoses, t-stat, expansion tank, and fan clutch. Anything other than a total replacement is asking for more trouble. It sucks, but you can then rest assured you won't have any more cooling woes for another 60k-90k miles. Yeah, it looks like when the water pump goes, the debris sometimes makes the radiator fail early. At least that's what happened with my car. The water pump failed, and two weeks later my radiator neck broke. And I was told that that's common by bimmerforums.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 13:18
|
|
|
Howdy, so a couple of pages back I posted about an '89 325iX which had a whole list of poo poo done to it by the local BMW guru, and all around sounded like a pretty solid buy. When I took it for a test drive it seemed sluggish... like I had to floor it to get anything out of it. Just to let you know what I'm comparing it against: my '92 Integra. Now in the cars defense it was on a busy road in rush hour and I never really got it out of second gear.... so a pretty lame test drive... but still my god awful Honda has (or so it seems to have) more pick up than that. My question: Is this normal, and something I'll get use to or should I walk away right now because something is quite wrong here? Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 16:13
|
|
|
Brock Landers posted:You got off lucky. Now don't forget to replace the rest of the cooling system: radiator, hoses, t-stat, expansion tank, and fan clutch. Anything other than a total replacement is asking for more trouble. It sucks, but you can then rest assured you won't have any more cooling woes for another 60k-90k miles. Quoted for truthiness. Seriously: if any one part of the cooling system goes, the rest is soon to follow. Order the kit and spend a day next weekend doing it. Personally I'd skip the fan clutch. $300 on Bimmerworld nets you radiator, water pump, t-stat and housing, and your coolant hoses. Or piecemeal it since you've already got the water pump done.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 16:16
|
|
|
Yeah, I'm going to dump the cash upfront for the cooling system now, so I don't have to spend it on gas money for my friends and tow truck rides later.  Positive note: E36's are so much easier to bleed than my 240sx. Only took me a few minutes and it was running like a top, unlike the three-hour-tour of jumping on my 240's front bumper to get the bubbles out.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 17:06
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:Positive note: E36's are so much easier to bleed than my 240sx. Only took me a few minutes and it was running like a top, unlike the three-hour-tour of jumping on my 240's front bumper to get the bubbles out. Smoke and mirrors.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 17:21
|
|
|
A few quick questions: 1. I'm closing in on 100,000 miles on the '02 325i, should I just do the cooling system now or should I wait until something gives up? Basically how catastrophic do the failures tend to be? If it's more of a "temp will slowly start rising and an attentive driver can pull over and shut down easily before damage" thing I'll wait, but if it's more of a "if you don't catch it within 30 seconds of failure say hello to the dealership service department" thing it obviously makes more sense to do it now. 2. Whenever I do it, is something like this a good way to go for it? I often see mention of the radiator also being replaced, is that normal or are the parts in that kit what I need as long as the radiator is still working? 3. Completely unrelated to the above two, but I would like to upgrade to HID headlights and I like the look of angel eyes. Are the aftermarket units like the Projector46 worth looking at, or is the "right" way to do it buying the OEM units and installing some angel eyes separately? I'm most concerned about having a proper light pattern and basically looking OEM-grade.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 21:14
|
|
|
wolrah posted:A few quick questions: 2. Never seen or heard of repair kits. I was under the impression that a damaged radiator is almost impossible to fix, or it will eventually break again anyways. 3. The kits from the sponsors/vendors on sites like bimmerforums/bimmerfest are solid. They're a few hundred (300~?) but they work great and look great and everything. Do that instead of trying to do it cheap and maybe accidentally buying crap.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 21:29
|
|
|
Xenoid posted:2. Never seen or heard of repair kits. I was under the impression that a damaged radiator is almost impossible to fix, or it will eventually break again anyways. The link he posted wasn't to a 'repair' kit, it was all new parts: code:
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 21:33
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:It looked like they had everything covered except a new radiator. I don't know if they had problems like the E36 ones, but if so you'll want a radiator along with everything in that kit. New hose clamps too, but those might be included and not listed. Doesn't the E36 have some plastic parts on the radiator, and those failing are the main cause for the problems? If the E46 doesn't have those plastic parts, I don't think you would need to replace it
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 21:36
|
|
|
wolrah posted:A few quick questions: 1. It can be something like a small leak, which you can catch in time, or the expansion tank can fail and dump all the coolant out causing a very fast overheat and expensive damage. Do it all (pump, t-stat, T-STAT HOUSING, radiator, hoses, expansion tank) and do it soon. 2. Buy a cooling system kit (or just the parts I listed above) from a reputable place like Pelican Parts or Bavarian Autosport. Give them a call and they will tell you exactly what you need. That kit doesn't have a radiator either. 3. My experience with the Projector46 on my E46 was not good. The cut-off was not sharp and was lop-sided. That was 5 years ago, so maybe things have changed. I ended up getting OEM lights on ebay for not much more than the Projector46 setup (at the time). Pro-tip: if you get the Projector46, the ballasts need to be mounted someplace and have the chance of vibrating loose. You also end up with wires running all over. The OEM units have the ballast clipped onto the housing and everything just snaps in place; true plug-n-play. This too might have changed with the Projector46.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 21:36
|
|
|
Xenoid posted:2. Never seen or heard of repair kits. I was under the impression that a damaged radiator is almost impossible to fix, or it will eventually break again anyways. On #2, I should have been more clear but my question was more of if the radiator's not damaged (to my knowledge) should I replace it if I do the job preemptively, or is replacement only needed if the pump fails and bits go everywhere? On #3, the question isn't cheap HID vs. kits, it's OEM HID + aftermarket angel eyes from well known vendor vs. aftermarket full projector OEM-style HID with built in angel eyes from well known vendor. Cheap ebay poo poo isn't an option here, I'm happy enough with the factory halogens that I'll pay the money to do it right and actually get better light output rather than getting some bright blue poo poo that blinds people.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 21:51
|
|
|
What are the upgrade options on the M62 TUB44 in my E38? I've read a bit about Dinan intakes, but I've also read the Dinan intake is a rebadged intake from the M62 B44. What are my options for horsepower increases that'll pass CA smog?
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 22:03
|
|
|
wolrah posted:On #2, I should have been more clear but my question was more of if the radiator's not damaged (to my knowledge) should I replace it if I do the job preemptively, or is replacement only needed if the pump fails and bits go everywhere? Replace the radiator. It fails in its own special way. (the hose neck snaps)Get the OEM HIDs and skip the angel eyes. If you must have them, buy the Projector46 as they have them integrated. Added them to OEM housings means baking the headlights in the oven to soften the glues. Some people have no problems, others do. In my opinion it's not worth the hassle for some chinzy ricer crap. The OEM HIDs have MUCH better light output than the aftermarket lights. The Projector46s were an upgrade from my halogens, but the OEM HIDs were an equal (if not better) upgrade from the Projector46 setup.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 22:03
|
|
|
BossTweed posted:Doesn't the E36 have some plastic parts on the radiator, and those failing are the main cause for the problems? If the E46 doesn't have those plastic parts, I don't think you would need to replace it I know for a fact the E36 does (ask me how I know  ) and I'm pretty sure I've heard the E46 had the same problem but hopefully someone else can verify that the E46 had a plastic neck prone to breaking.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 22:07
|
|
|
wolrah posted:On #2, I should have been more clear but my question was more of if the radiator's not damaged (to my knowledge) should I replace it if I do the job preemptively, or is replacement only needed if the pump fails and bits go everywhere? Apologies I'm a bit scatterbrained at the moment. The rad shouldn't fail. It's almost always the pump/fan that shits the bed, but that repair kit would be a good idea (pre-emptive) and you might want to do the fan delete mod as well. I'm not completely sure of the difference on the lights tbh. I only know of the stuff from the good vendors on those forums being quality but I didn't realise there was two different types.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 22:07
|
|
|
Xenoid posted:and you might want to do the fan delete mod as well. What is the point of the fan mod? Googling just gives me ricer "I gained .96 HP but now I overheat in traffic" forum posts.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 22:44
|
|
|
Slightly better throttle response, frees up some room in front of the engine, no exploding fan to worry about and no overheating problems.
|
|
#
?
Jun 1, 2009 23:38
|
|
|
Xenoid posted:and you might want to do the fan delete mod as well. I have an electric fan, what exactly would a full delete gain me aside from needing to watch my temps when I'm leaving Cleveland? I think the AT models might have engine-driven fans, but honestly who the gently caress cares about performance and drives an AT 3 series?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 01:50
|
|
|
I had to remove mine because 4 blades of the fan flew off and it became horribly unbalanced, shaking the car at certain RPM's. I do not attribute that at all to the water pump failure, though. I have heard so many loving horror stories about the E36 radiators. Are there any alternatives, such as just bolting in an appropriately-sized aftermarket aluminum radiator? I really wanted to keep it "stock as hell" but after the water pump dying I am more inclined to think that maybe improvements upon BMW's original design are more prevalent than I thought.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 01:56
|
|
|
Groan Zone posted:Ooohh does anyone know what kind of wheels those are? OEM BMW - Style 42 - non bolted - 16 x 7
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 04:22
|
|
|
Jonny 290 posted:I had to remove mine because 4 blades of the fan flew off and it became horribly unbalanced, shaking the car at certain RPM's. I do not attribute that at all to the water pump failure, though. There are a few (actually, that Mishimoto one is really cheap here, even cheaper than an OEM plastic one...) CornHolio fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jun 2, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 04:26
|
|
|
I have a brand new cooling system that I was going to put into my car (RIP). It consists of all new OEM parts, an Ireland Engineering aluminum radiator (regarded as the best at a reasonable price), and a Stewart water pump (regarded as the best, bar none). I'll be listing it for sale (at an attractive price) in a few days, if you guys wanna stay put for now. Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 05:00 on Jun 2, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 04:51
|
|
|
wolrah posted:I have an electric fan, what exactly would a full delete gain me aside from needing to watch my temps when I'm leaving Cleveland? I think the AT models might have engine-driven fans, but honestly who the gently caress cares about performance and drives an AT 3 series? What? All BMWs have mechanical and electric fans. The fan delete mod removes the mechanical fan and replaces the fan switch and thermostat for ones that will tell the car to turn the fan on earlier. Add some diesel water wetter and you're good to go.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 05:06
|
|
|
Lost In Sock posted:Howdy, so a couple of pages back I posted about an '89 325iX which had a whole list of poo poo done to it by the local BMW guru, and all around sounded like a pretty solid buy. When I took it for a test drive it seemed sluggish... like I had to floor it to get anything out of it. Just to let you know what I'm comparing it against: my '92 Integra. Now in the cars defense it was on a busy road in rush hour and I never really got it out of second gear.... so a pretty lame test drive... but still my god awful Honda has (or so it seems to have) more pick up than that. My question: Is this normal, and something I'll get use to or should I walk away right now because something is quite wrong here? Thanks. The m20b25 doesn't have a ton of torque down low thanks to SOHC and a powerband tweak for higher rpm, but once you hit the powerband you should feel yourself sinking into the seat and the rear end squatting. Really, i'd ask for a second test drive on some backroads to really hammer it. I was a little afraid to really test out my iX when I drove it because the gears were loving tricky, but it still felt powerful.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 05:13
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:What? All BMWs have mechanical and electric fans. The fan delete mod removes the mechanical fan and replaces the fan switch and thermostat for ones that will tell the car to turn the fan on earlier. Add some diesel water wetter and you're good to go. E46 cars with the manual transmission do not have a mechanical fan.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 12:34
|
|
|
moparacker posted:OEM BMW - Style 42 - non bolted - 16 x 7 Thank you kindly goon sire. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 14:30
|
|
|
Brock Landers posted:E46 cars with the manual transmission do not have a mechanical fan. Oh, well my comment stands for e30's and e36's then.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 15:41
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Thats it, Im not driving my E36 any more this weekend. Jesus. My car is still doing this, and I haven't shelled out the money for an oil pressure gauge or a new sender. The car only does this when it's been driven for at least 20 minutes and when it's warm out. Still, it doesn't do it all the time. I have Castrol Syntec 5W30 in the engine, which is supposed to be good year-round. If I replace it with something heavier, say 10W40 or even 15W40 for the summer should this issue go away? I'm fairly certain my car's done this since before I bought it, but it's still unnerving to see my oil pressure light on occasionally.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 16:01
|
|
|
I need someone to either point me in a good direction, or tell me I'm crazy with this idea. I've gotten hooked on AutoX, and Solosprints are really intriguing me as well. Currently I'm running my 2002 Subaru WRX, and it's my daily driver. Before I go too crazy and get a set of R-comps and coilovers, I thought that I might as well get a cheap car to use as a dedicated race car, and not need to worry if I break something or need to keep it on jackstands for a week or two at a time. I figured an E30 325i or 325is would fit the bill nicely. Is that a decent assumption? The 325is seems to be much more suited for track use, but is more expensive and harder to find. Am I really going to run into a performance 'wall' with a 325i? Is there anything major about the 325 that I should be looking for (aside from rust, cracking rubber, history, etc)? Good idea / bad idea?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 16:04
|
|
|
I hear E30 318iS's are great for AutoX. I would use mine, but its high mileage and I just love it too much as a DD to beat on it with AutoX. Personally, I think having two cars is great if your doing any racing. I have my E30 for going around town and a 300ZX for AutoX or when I want to drive something faster. And of course, if one breaks down, which they inevitably will, I still have another car to drive.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 16:08
|
|
|
A '91 318is definitely is harder to find than a 325i, maybe even harder to find than a 325is. Would it be that much better for AutoX than a 325i? Thanks for the input, I sort of passed by the 318 altogether. I found some good info on common questions / spots to look for here, so I guess I'm just trying to get some info on what is good or bad for turning it into a weekend only autox / track car. Any opinions on using an E30 for mostly motorsports would be great http://www.e30info.com/pages/buyers.htm
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 16:33
|
|
|
choo choo posted:A '91 318is definitely is harder to find than a 325i, maybe even harder to find than a 325is. Would it be that much better for AutoX than a 325i? Thanks for the input, I sort of passed by the 318 altogether. Generally avoid the earlier model 318's if you're going to be using the stock motor. The M10 is slow as hell from what I've heard, and redlines at about 5K IIRC. 88-91 318's are good, as they came with the upgraded M42. I've got one, and it works fine for me. I don't autoX it, though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 18:26
|
|
|
KillerFuzzball posted:Generally avoid the earlier model 318's if you're going to be using the stock motor. The M10 is slow as hell from what I've heard, and redlines at about 5K IIRC. 88-91 318's are good, as they came with the upgraded M42. I've got one, and it works fine for me. I don't autoX it, though. I've heard you can turbocharge the M10 and get 1,500 HP, though!
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 18:36
|
|
|
Yeah the M10 is a rad little motor in 2.0L and in a lighter car like say... a 2002. I love driving my 2002 vs my E30 325i, just a completely different experience.
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 18:40
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:I've heard you can turbocharge the M10 and get 1,500 HP, though! Only if it has > 100k mi. (For those that don't understand WTF we're talking about, in the 1980's BMW built F1 motors using stock M10 blocks that made upwards of 1200hp. BMW was said to select 100k mi blocks because they had already been de-stressed.)
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 19:37
|
|
|
Guys I need your help please. As some of you know I own a pair of 1989/1990 BMW Z1's. The Z1 is based on the E30 325i but with changes to the rear axle. Do any of you have an idea as to how change the standard 4 lug wheels for 5 lug ones, some people suggest buying all the hub parts from an E30 M3 but you can also do it with parts from an E36 Compakt wich I would prefer being newer. So, any ideas?
|
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 22:48
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 16, 2024 23:29 |
|
|
Welp, Geico is trying to gently caress me. As soon as this ordeal is over I'm going to dump them, because this is retarded. They are offering me a lower settlement for my car than my friend received for his (which had more miles, was in much rougher shape, and had less options). I'm going to try to haggle with them as best as I can, and if that fails to correctly valuate my car, I'm gonna have to lawyer up. Anyone have any tips on how to get a good value for my car? I'm currently going to send them a bunch of BMWCCA classifieds, as those tend to represent the level of care my car has gotten and have prices to reflect this. Insurance is supposed to give a "like replacement" payout, not just any M3  .
Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 23:54 on Jun 2, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 2, 2009 23:52
|
|