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Endless Mike posted:The SVRider people seem to like the greatdaytoride.com guy's work on their seats. Doing his thing on the rider seat is something like $70 plus shipping through him. That's the "Spencer" seat. My dad has one on his ST1300. He loves it.
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May 31, 2009 22:35
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I'm considering an SV 1000 as my next bike, so I have a few dumb questions. 1. I might import one from England to save some money (and better choice), can the speedo be reconfigured from mph to kph easily? Or maybe they use furlongs per fortnight over there, and the rider sits on the other side. 2. Is it true that medieval torture is preferable to adjusting the valves? 3. Can you remove the pillion seat and click some luggage solution in its place? I would definitely need a full luggage solution but for shorter trips it would be nice with something small and practical, but I guess a strapped soft bag would work just fine.
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Jun 1, 2009 02:30
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Can't comment on the first two, but I have this tailbag: http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?item=FTL_CAR007 I've got its straps rigged so that I can just slip the pillion seat through them, snap it into place and put a nylon strap on the grab handle. Take 60 seconds to install/remove, it's very secure and it holds loads of crap, since it can accordion up and out. I've hauled 25+ pound loads of groceries, bike parts, etc many times with no issues. It beats the pants off of a backpack, especially in hot weather. I don't think it looks too bad either. I rarely take it off the bike, unless I'm going out solely to ride hard and I know I won't need to haul anything. edit: Pic of bag on bike  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. My pillion seat has been shaved way down, so on a stock seat, the bag would sit more upright and a bit further back. Makes a nice backrest at long red lights as well. MourningGlory fucked around with this message at 03:07 on Jun 1, 2009 |
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Jun 1, 2009 03:01
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Ola posted:I'm considering an SV 1000 as my next bike, so I have a few dumb questions. 1. Almost all bikes have an option where you can hold down some button or another to convert the bike from mph to kph. According to this: quote:Speedo readout easily changed... turn on ignition, make sure odometer reading is on the total mileage of bike (i.e. ODO), then push & keep pressed the ADJ button on the right hand side of speedo. After about 5 seconds it will change to kmh - and vice versa. 2. I can't really see how the valves would be more or less difficult to adjust than the SV ones. There's some annoying things about adjusting the SV ones, but nothing that you don't get over pretty quick.
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Jun 1, 2009 05:07
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So I just realized I dont have a rear fender on my bike. Will this be a concern for riding in rainy weather? Also my rear tire is showing some noticeable squaring. Nothing too bad yet that I am feeling, but I will probably get something if I see a sale on some tires. This bike is going to be my touring baby for now. What is something that will give probably the best comfort and lowest wearing tread?
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Jun 1, 2009 06:26
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I'm partial to the Pilot Road 2s. Anything "Sport touring" is fine though...different compounds, sidewall stiffnesses, profiles, etc. will all come down to personal taste.
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Jun 1, 2009 06:32
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Ola posted:I'm considering an SV 1000 as my next bike, so I have a few dumb questions. Oi, we're not quite that backwards over here. MPH is what we use. I was going to say it ought to be fairly easily to swap the backplates over on the speedo, because I've got to do it on my friend's CB400, but I forgot speedos can be electronic. Although we drive on the other side of the road, controls are still the same, which actually makes more sense when it comes to waiting at stops. We can have our foot on the brake, and be leaning away from oncoming traffic. Also, that makes me wish the CB was electronic, it sounds so much easier than taking apart the entire speedo just for the want of a small disk of plastic.
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Jun 1, 2009 08:30
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dietcokefiend posted:So I just realized I dont have a rear fender on my bike. Will this be a concern for riding in rainy weather? Bridgestone BT021s or Avon Storms are the best sport-touring tyres for the SV in my opinion. The Storms have ludicrous amounts of grip in the wet yet wear well when doing lots of upright miles. The BT021s just wear so drat slowly you can expect around 6,000 miles from a rear - I know someone who managed 10,000 miles before it finally squared off. edit: rear fender just stops gunk from getting into the shock. Provided you give it a clean every now and then, it won't matter. Rainy weather results in spray from the front wheel getting into the spark plug, which is why some owners (including me) fit a fender extender. ranathari fucked around with this message at 08:49 on Jun 1, 2009 |
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Jun 1, 2009 08:47
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dietcokefiend posted:Also my rear tire is showing some noticeable squaring. This is a problem that is both easy and fun to fix 
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Jun 1, 2009 12:05
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8ender posted:This is a problem that is both easy and fun to fix I have been trying to "correct" the problem on all of the clover onramps and roundabouts Speaking of which I can get over to freaky low levels of lean on this bike without even turning. I have been learning to hug my foot to the side of the bike instead of sticking my toes out after I dragged it a bit on the ground.
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Jun 1, 2009 14:39
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Thanks for the replies!
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Jun 1, 2009 14:41
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Ola posted:I'm considering an SV 1000 as my next bike, so I have a few dumb questions. Consider the Aprilia Falco or the Honda Superhawk as well.
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Jun 1, 2009 15:01
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Neither is available as a naked version with fairly upright seating 
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Jun 1, 2009 15:07
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Ola posted:Neither is available as a naked version with fairly upright seating Tuono.
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Jun 1, 2009 15:59
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Tuono: I have a "luggage rack" I made out of a spare passenger seat for my givi top box and it works great. Switch to KPH/MPH is 3 button presses. I don't know about valve adjust procedure, but it's 10k mile interval and they rarely need adjustment (it's cramped in there, though). No v-twin valve job is going to be nice I don't think. It's soooooo comfy.
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Jun 1, 2009 17:14
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The stiffness of my Aprilia's front brake, and the mind-bending amazingness of the '09 R6 front brake I got to track test has convinced me to try and fix my SV brake once and for all. The symptoms: MC squeaks, like a low pitch rubber dragging sound not a brake pad squeal sound. I'm hoping this is just the boot needing some grease. MC spits very small amounts of brake fluid occasionally. Like a drop or 3 on the front fairing near the clipons. I'm guessing it's from the seal between the lines and the MC squirting forward, although there is never enough to trace a leak. This would also lead me to believe small amounts of air are entering the system. Lever feel: There is a good bit of initial play. Needs a very good squeeze as opposed to the other 2 bikes, which brake loving hard with one finger and moderate pressure. I have SS lines. I know the SV MC and calipers are dated but it's very spongy. I actually adjusted my brake lever out a click in a track session because I was getting within a few mm of touching the bar. I'm planning on greasing (or something) the rubber boot and piston, bleeding the poo poo out of it (with a syringe reverse-bleed method) and maybe tightening the brake line connection. I had problem with the stupid crush washers seating before and I'm wary of this, as the bolt is probably over torqued as it is. The SV has a bit over 30k on it and I've never done much with the brakes besides replace pads, fluid, and change out to steel lines a while back. Hopefully this will make it nice and solid, but I've honestly never had much success with braking systems. I think it took me 2 days just to get resistance at the lever again when I replaced the lines, although I was only doing the old pump and bleed method.
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Jun 1, 2009 17:30
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Infinotize posted:The stiffness of my Aprilia's front brake, and the mind-bending amazingness of the '09 R6 front brake I got to track test has convinced me to try and fix my SV brake once and for all. The symptoms: Normal option: Firstly, use baby powder to try and help you find where that leak is coming from. That's probably at the core of your issues. You may need to find some thicker crush washers if yours aren't sealing up correctly. Second, flush out fluid. I use a mityvac to suck the air out of the lines. You can also use the tube bleed method, which works fine as well, or a syringe, which I have no experience with but some people swear by. Third: Bleed the banjo bolts. Oftentimes, air will get stuck in the banjos leading to a mushy feel that you can't bleed out of the air bleeders. This is especially needed if there is no bleed screw on the master cylinder. To bleed banjos, hold steady pressure on the lever, crack the banjo loose until the lever starts to travel, and before the lever hits the bar, close the banjo. Once the banjo is closed, let the bar spring back, and repeat until you don't get any hissing or popping and it's just flowing fluid out through and round the banjo bolt, with a smooth action at the lever. I usually do all 3 banjos, although it's probably only needed to do the top one. If your master cylinder is screwed, you can either find a replacement on ebay for cheap and hope it's in decent condition, or just use it as an excuse to buy a Brembo RCS system and revel in the amazing upgrade to your braking system. That R6 that you were riding at the track has a 19x18 Brembo master cylinder stock, and that's 90% of what made it perform like that. The other 10% is pads. The stock lines on that bike are rubber, which work find until they start to break down and flex. Brembo stuff is expensive, but highly recommended, and the new RCS stuff comes with a pressure switch already built in, as well as an adjustment on the bar to swap ratios if you feel more comfortable with more lever travel for better modulation. Z3n fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jun 1, 2009 |
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Jun 1, 2009 18:31
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I was planning on bleeding my brakes later today, because of mush in the lever. However, I have never bled brakes before and I'm still figuring out exactly what I need to do. I already bought a bottle of Belray fluid. Is there a specific order I should do this? Should I do the calipers bleeder before doing the banjos?
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Jun 1, 2009 19:01
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MourningGlory posted:I was planning on bleeding my brakes later today, because of mush in the lever. However, I have never bled brakes before and I'm still figuring out exactly what I need to do. I already bought a bottle of Belray fluid. Is there a specific order I should do this? Should I do the calipers bleeder before doing the banjos? Yeah, do the bleeders first, then the banjos. The easiest way is like so: 1. Break the bleeder loose so that you can easily open and close it with one hand. 2. Put a clear piece of tubing vertically over the bleeder so that it fits securely, fill it with a little brake fluid, and dump the end in a bucket or a bottle. 3. Hold the lever down. 4. Open the bleeder until fluid starts to push through and the bar goes back to the lever. 5. Close the bleeder. 6. Let the lever go, check the reservior, refill as needed, and go back to 3 until you've got clear fluid coming out of the caliper. Basically, you're using the fluid in the tube to make sure that no matter what you do, you'll never get air back in the system, only brake fluid. As long as you do that, you never have to worry about introducing air into the system. Once you have new fluid with no bubbles in the tube, close the bleeder, drain the hose, and repeat on the other side. Then follow the instructions above on bleeding the banjo fittings.
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Jun 1, 2009 19:39
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Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely add banjo bleeding to the list, since I can't bleed near the master otherwise. I'm not on stock pads and I'd love to get a nicer master but I want to stay superstock legal, so I have to stick with the stocker for now. SVs must feel awesome with GSX-R fronts and new brake systems!
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Jun 1, 2009 19:54
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The best way I've found to bleed is exactly what Z3n said but with a length of tube up over the handlebars and back down into a bucket.
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Jun 1, 2009 20:12
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Infinotize posted:Thanks for the reply. I'll definitely add banjo bleeding to the list, since I can't bleed near the master otherwise. I've got Brembo calipers and a master cylinder on my track bike, and it's stupid for a bike that tops out at 125mph (if that) on the track. It was all done by the PO, maybe one day I'll peddle the Brembo stuff for some cash. 02 GSX-R 750 front end. 8ender posted:The best way I've found to bleed is exactly what Z3n said but with a length of tube up over the handlebars and back down into a bucket. I've got a mityvac that I sort of suppliment that setup with, just 1-2 pumps at a time, and it helps remove the air quicker. Plus it has a drain reservior that makes my life a lot easier. I lost the attachment a long time ago, so I just shove the tube over the bleeder and away I go.
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Jun 1, 2009 20:13
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Two interesting SV650 experiences today: 1. Activated the ABS brakes. Was in the process of almost going through a yellow light and went red quicker than I remember. Only going like 3-5mph and nailed the front brake. Felt like I ran over a big rock or something, but realized it was the ABS pump doing its job. Odd feeling 2. Riding to the DMV to get my title and registration I had someone scream out at me in the street. HEY YOU ...  NICE BIKE! The zx600 never got that poo poo. I guess I am riding something classy now 
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Jun 1, 2009 23:37
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Ola posted:Neither is available as a naked version with fairly upright seating Don't understand why anyone would choose naked over half fairing except purely for aesthetics. At any rate, there is the Tuono or they actually made a streetfighter Falco from the factory.
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Jun 2, 2009 01:37
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n8r posted:Don't understand why anyone would choose naked over half fairing except purely for aesthetics. At any rate, there is the Tuono or they actually made a streetfighter Falco from the factory. It's because I like sitting fairly upright and most small fairings will just make the wind hit my face instead of sending it over my head. Also aesthetics. But I don't think I can afford a newer bike any time soon. Maybe if I cut some other expenses, but I don't really want to cut those and there's only dumb desires of more horsepower and a newer looking bike that drives it, not because I actually need it in any way. I'll keep my old GSX going and send a few angry thoughts now and again to you stupid foreigners and your cheap bikes. 
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Jun 2, 2009 10:25
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frozenphil posted:Opinions on this bike for a first timer? It seems to be priced inline, if not slightly under, what others in this area (birmingham/atlanta) are going for. Coredump posted:Where the hell do you live? Also buy that bike so I don't end up trying to take out a loan for it. Well FrozenPhil didn't get this bike... Cuz I now have it. Its loving nice. Couple of questions: 1. Would lowering links screw up the handling of this bike? I have a short inseam and I miss being able to flat foot like on my GS500. I can tip toe it but if I could lower it and not mess anything up it would be great. 2. Dietcokefiend, I can't find that black model light you have on your bike. All I see is the chrome one. How do you like it so far? Does it have low beam and high beam? 3. The guy says its just the stock sv shock on the rear. The bike rides really good to me but I'm coming from being 300+ lbs on a stock sprung GS500 so I may not know what good is. Should I upgrade the rear shock to match the gsxr front fork or can I preload it enough to match? I'm just going to be riding on the street and this is only the first year of me riding.
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Jun 4, 2009 18:09
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Coredump posted:Should I upgrade the rear shock to match the gsxr front fork or can I preload it enough to match? I'm just going to be riding on the street and this is only the first year of me riding. It's a pretty controversial subject, but a lot of people at svrider like the 06-07 Kawi ZX14 rear shock for heavier riders. It's either the same length or 8mm longer than the stock shock and has the 90* resevoir, so it's pretty much a direct dropin. Swapping may actually raise the rear end since it won't compress nearly as much when you sit on it, making it a little more difficult to get your feet down. I'm curious about the first question also. If I used lowering links in the rear, would raising the forks in the triples bring the geometry closer to being correct? The only thing I would lose is ground clearance, right? Also, with the GSXR front end using shorter forks, lowering links for Coredump might not upset the geometry.
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Jun 4, 2009 18:32
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waptang posted:It's a pretty controversial subject, but a lot of people at svrider like the 06-07 Kawi ZX14 rear shock for heavier riders. It's either the same length or 8mm longer than the stock shock and has the 90* resevoir, so it's pretty much a direct dropin. Swapping may actually raise the rear end since it won't compress nearly as much when you sit on it, making it a little more difficult to get your feet down. Most riders aren't going to notice geometry changes like what is talked about or if they notice, aren't going to care. Many ride geometry mods are like that. With that in mind, lowering the front and rear isn't ideal, as the bike is set up to be relatively stable, give good feedback, etc. the way it is stock. A little time and practice with the bike will help avoid any issues with getting a foot down. I highly recommend that you (Core) just suck it up and spend some time getting accustomed to riding a slightly higher motorcycle. You will adjust with in a few weeks of riding and it won't be a big deal, and you'll gain a lot more comfort when it comes to riding other tall bikes as well. On the shock swaps: They're hit or miss. Most of the time, spring rate is pretty far off, rebound and compression is pretty far off. That's not to say that they can't be an improvement over the stock stuff, but they're rarely the perfect shock for an SV. The stock shock is roughly 13.25 inches long, and my racebike is running my shock at about 13.75 inches eye to eye. It's far too aggressive for street use, but moving up a couple of 10th's of an inch won't make a huge difference. The ride geometry on a stock SV is pretty relaxed, the GSX-R front end will make it more aggressive, but I'd still avoid moving to something that's lower in the back. GSX-R front end plus stock rear shock length is just about right for more aggressive street riding. Core, 300+ pounds? If so, nothing's going to work when it comes to the stock shock and spring. You need a custom setup to get any sort of decent performance out of the bike. Respring in the front will probably eventually be needed as well. But it's your first year riding, I wouldn't be too concerned about any of that. Focus on yourself, not the bike, and go from there.
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Jun 4, 2009 20:49
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Z3n posted:But it's your first year riding, I wouldn't be too concerned about any of that. Focus on yourself, not the bike, and go from there. This, a thousand times this. So many people faff about making endless mods to the handling and performance of their bikes when they're nowhere close to hitting the limits of what the stock bike can do because they're just not the riders they like to think they are. It's like the dipshits who go from a SS600 to a litrebike because they've "outgrown it" despite never having done a trackday.
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Jun 4, 2009 20:56
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Who sells the Suzuki OE touchup paint?
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Jun 4, 2009 21:17
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Z3n posted:
13.25 you say?  So is my GSX. Maybe there's aftermarket SV shocks I can use, although the weight and linkage lever ratios might be off. e: it's eye-to-eye right?
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Jun 4, 2009 21:28
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Z3n posted:Core, 300+ pounds? If so, nothing's going to work when it comes to the stock shock and spring. You need a custom setup to get any sort of decent performance out of the bike. Respring in the front will probably eventually be needed as well. I have to disagree. I weighed about that when I bought my SV and on the stock springs/shock it was an unstable, unpredictable, pogoing, seesawing mess. The best thing I ever did was swap the springs for a set from Sonic Springs and add a Penske double clicker to the rear. It completely changed the way the bike handled and it gave me huge amounts more confidence, since I was no longer fighting the bike. For someone of that weight, a stock suspension SV is drat near unrideable.
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Jun 4, 2009 22:28
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MourningGlory posted:I have to disagree. I weighed about that when I bought my SV and on the stock springs/shock it was an unstable, unpredictable, pogoing, seesawing mess. The best thing I ever did was swap the springs for a set from Sonic Springs and add a Penske double clicker to the rear. It completely changed the way the bike handled and it gave me huge amounts more confidence, since I was no longer fighting the bike. I was wondering if he was 300 pounds as a rider, or 300 pounds GVW with luggage. I've done the 300 pounds with luggage thing before, and it's not as much strain on the bike as a 300 pound rider. However, you are right when it comes to needing the mods done to perform even remotely normally if he's a 300 pound rider.
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Jun 4, 2009 22:42
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Ordered my Intiminators just now. If only I was paying in cash I could say I just shaved an easy 3lbs off my bike.
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Jun 5, 2009 01:17
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I ordered a set, too. I'm going to hold off installing until I get some springs and shock since I am a huge fatty. Not 300+ but with gear and some luggage, could hit that easy.
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Jun 5, 2009 03:04
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dietcokefiend posted:Who sells the Suzuki OE touchup paint? Colorite has OEM matched paint for pretty much every manufacturer http://www.colorrite.com/
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Jun 5, 2009 13:10
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Z3n posted:Core, 300+ pounds? If so, nothing's going to work when it comes to the stock shock and spring. You need a custom setup to get any sort of decent performance out of the bike. Respring in the front will probably eventually be needed as well. Yeah I walk around about 320 lbs these days in normal clothes. Right now the bike has the gsxr forks with racetech .95 kg/mm springs in it according to the previous owner. I figure if its that stiff up front can't hurt to go stiffer in back. Really the rear shock is probably the last stock piece left on it from the previous owner that deals with suspension. As far as I can tell he's done a really good job with everything and the bike rocks my face off.
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Jun 5, 2009 13:47
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Ola posted:13.25 you say? I'm fairly certain that that is it. You'd probably have to mod some clevises to get it to fit, but that's not too difficult. Core, yeah, a respring at least, but you'll be best off with some form of aftermarket shock.
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Jun 5, 2009 15:45
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Woohoo! spools came in today so I can finally clean my loving chain.
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Jun 5, 2009 17:20
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Hey Z3n, on the SV is it normal for the base of the bleed screws to weep a bit of brake fluid after being bled? I know I got them closed, but they dripped quite a bit of fluid afterwards, which I cleaned up. After pumping the front brake lever literally about 100 times, there was no sign of any more seepage, but it still freaked me out a bit.
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Jun 5, 2009 20:30
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