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JingleBells posted:(55 reg for UK peeps) This should probably go in the stupid questions thread, but I'm not from the UK and always wondered what this means. Is it incredibly expensive to get new plates or reregistered or inspected or something in the UK? Some googling taught me it's basically how old the registration is, but not what I'm wondering. EDIT VVV Yea I got all that from the wiki. Why is a 55 that much better than an 05 that anyone would care? Lowclock fucked around with this message at 01:04 on Jun 8, 2009 |
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Jun 8, 2009 00:49
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Lowclock posted:This should probably go in the stupid questions thread, but I'm not from the UK and always wondered what this means. Is it incredibly expensive to get new plates or reregistered or inspected or something in the UK? Some googling taught me it's basically how old the registration is, but not what I'm wondering. Basically there are 2 batches of new plates each year, for 2009 it is 09 in march and 59 in sept, 55 means it was registered between sept 05 and march 06. Wikipedia explains it better, personalised plates are a lot rarer here, and generally you look like a knob unless you've got an impressive car.
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Jun 8, 2009 00:55
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My brother just bought an E36 M3 and we have the driveshaft off to replace the center support bearing. I know we are supposed to use a puller to get the nut(?) off that connects the two parts of the shaft, but how does the actual bearing come off?
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Jun 8, 2009 02:58
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Ok, you guys have me sold. I'm totally smitten... Got it with sport pkg, prem pkg, nav, ipod, comfort access and premium sound. Such a wonderful car to drive. Sorry for the crappy iPhone pic.
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Jun 8, 2009 03:51
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So, in this month's Roundel, it says BMW is considering a turbo V6 for the next generation M3. Let me re-iterate that: VEE SIX.  Could this be the end of the straight-six? Will they be making FWD cars before we know it?
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Jun 8, 2009 05:09
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I finally drove an M3 today, black on black e92 with DCT. Absolute power corrupts absolutely. We got to drive them on a -6 mile loop around Newberry Park Corporate center, basically gave us the cars and told us: 1. Turn off DSC and die. 2. If you get into an accident and DSC is off you just bought yourself a M3. Your tickets are on you. I think I was the only one not driving like a complete rear end in a top hat (speeding, switching lanes without signaling, weaving in and out of traffic) like a typical BMW driver. But the experience was fun, I stepped on it at a few stoplights but kept off the cops radar. That engine...I have no words. Dual clutch in auto mode was way smoother than any slushbox, the only unnerving thing was when you put it in reverse, it doesn't "creep" backwards like an automatic.
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Jun 8, 2009 05:12
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So I did get that E46 328I from that guy and after a week of driving it, I love it. It's absolutely amazing. It was mentioned that I should replace the cooling system, and nicely enough, the fan housing and fan was replaced 7000 miles ago, which makes it a cheaper repair now. However, I am noticing something that I failed to on my test drive: a light clunk from the rear of the car when putting it in gear. Clutch in, push into first, light clunk midway through. It's not a really loud noise, but I talked with a friend of mine who worked a merc that did a similar thing, which he determined was the transmission and driveshaft mounts (or something). How urgent are repairs on this sort of thing? Other than that noise, the car seems to be really amazing. I also got my Haynes manual today, and after looking through it, if I spend a bunch of time reading and studying it, maybe I won't be so useless!
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Jun 8, 2009 07:12
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JingleBells posted:I'm looking at upgrading my FIAT Punto Diesel to a 2005 E46 320Cd Sport (55 reg for UK peeps), I've spotted a nice one in my price range on Auto Trader: Well, I've taken it for a test drive today and I'm smitten  Compared to my current diesel it's absolutely silent, and taking it down the motorway for a junction the pulling power is fantastic. It's got black leather interior which is nice and comfy too  I've paid a deposit and I shall be collecting it on Sat hopefully, just need to ensure my bank don't decide to block anything as "fraudulent"
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Jun 8, 2009 15:10
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Deceptor101 posted:I am noticing something that I failed to on my test drive: a light clunk from the rear of the car when putting it in gear. Clutch in, push into first, light clunk midway through. It's not a really loud noise, but I talked with a friend of mine who worked a merc that did a similar thing, which he determined was the transmission and driveshaft mounts (or something). Hey, if you find out what this is, let me know. My e46 with similar mileage does the same and I've been too lazy to try to figure it out.
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Jun 8, 2009 15:54
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JingleBells posted:Well, I've taken it for a test drive today and I'm smitten drat, that color/wheel combo looks really good on the E46 Coupe. I wish we got the small diesels over here in the states. Pimpsolo posted:Hey, if you find out what this is, let me know. My e46 with similar mileage does the same and I've been too lazy to try to figure it out. I've had a friend put my E36 into gear while I was underneath and the clunk was coming from the diff I think. When you put it in gear the output shaft of the transmission moves a little bit, and the differential has some built in backlash, so I'm pretty sure that is the clunk we're all hearing. Maybe try some of the shockproof Redline fluid and see what happens. I just live with it, but I would also love if my transmission made that awesome straight-cut gear whine.
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Jun 8, 2009 23:10
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Maybe try some of the shockproof Redline fluid and see what happens. I just live with it, but I would also love if my transmission made that awesome straight-cut gear whine. If you have an LSD, do not, under any circumstances use the Redline fluid. I was told by a guy that builds and races BMW's for a living that the Redline fluid will destroy the clutches in a BMW LSD in about 2 weeks of hard driving. For pretty much everything else on the car, he highly recommends the Redline products.
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Jun 9, 2009 00:08
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The Locator posted:If you have an LSD, do not, under any circumstances use the Redline fluid. I was told by a guy that builds and races BMW's for a living that the Redline fluid will destroy the clutches in a BMW LSD in about 2 weeks of hard driving. I know a number of people who do some pretty hard driving in their E30s/E36s and swear by Redline in their diff and transmission.
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Jun 9, 2009 01:33
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TractionControl posted:I know a number of people who do some pretty hard driving in their E30s/E36s and swear by Redline in their diff and transmission. Maybe it's a specific type then, the friction modifier one?
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Jun 9, 2009 05:02
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Sorry if this has been answered before, what's the verdit on repairing run flats? BMW says no, Internet is full of people saying yes.
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Jun 9, 2009 20:30
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Roger_Mudd posted:Sorry if this has been answered before, what's the verdit on repairing run flats? BMW says no, Internet is full of people saying yes. When in doubt, always listen to random people on the internet. Edit: No, seriously. BMW has to protect themselves from litigation, and they potentially make money selling replacement OEM tires. They have no interest in admitting to broad swathes of failed parts, or classes or categories of problems (such as E36 cooling systems or E46 subframe tearout). So, lest that come across as harsh against BMW, let me say this: your tolerance for a potential future failure directly affects whether or not you should repair the tire. Did you drive on it flat? Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jun 9, 2009 |
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Jun 9, 2009 21:03
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*I are idiot
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Jun 9, 2009 21:17
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This is true but BMW often fibs about stuff like this(such as "requiring" Premium gas in my 328i). Well I noticed a nail in the tire today, the "alert" light has not come on.
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Jun 9, 2009 21:18
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Progress! A few of you may remember me posting photos of a collision involving my '96 M3 a few pages back. My insurance company totaled the car. At first, I was hell bent on fighting this, until the told me the buyback price. Knowing how extensive the damage was, I couldn't resist buying it back and getting to work, especially considering the condition and mileage of the rest of the car. I have managed to break down the entire front end, including the radiator support. All told, about 6 hours of work so far. I've sourced out all of the parts I need, and ordered many of them. I found a Cosmos hood and bumper, so I won't even need to paint! Looking like it's gonna be right around $1000 in repairs. 
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Jun 9, 2009 21:57
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This thread has inspired me, probably for the better. I've always liked the E30, so when a friend decided he wanted a project, it eventually landed on finding one. After some searching and some incredible luck, he scores a '91 318iS with around 100k on it, running and driving for $1075. Now, neither of us has ever done any serious wrenching before this. We've both tinkered around a bit with cars, and even done some minor work like oil changes, suspension upgrades, and I once watched a friend put a throttle body back together. Fast forward 3 weeks and here we sit:  What have we gotten ourselves into?EDIT: Actually, this has me inspired to ask a question. We have an E30 Bentley, but it doesn't appear to cover the M42. Do we have to pick up the E36 manual to find that or did they release some kind of franken-manual that has this car in it? FuncType fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jun 9, 2009 |
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Jun 9, 2009 22:07
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What's wrong with it? Are you in need of assistance? </Farva>
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Jun 9, 2009 22:14
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Carbon Deity posted:Progress! A few of you may remember me posting photos of a collision involving my '96 M3 a few pages back. Do you mind telling me how much the buyback price was and how much they gave you for the totaled car? I'm going through insurance hell right now.
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Jun 9, 2009 22:22
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BraveUlysses posted:What's wrong with it? Are you in need of assistance? </Farva> Nothing too phenomenally huge. Hole in the exhaust, rough idle, some electronics not working, etc. We're tearing it apart to learn about it mostly. Get the engine bay all cleaned up, intake cleaned out, etc. So far we've not done a whole lot except take things off. It's the putting things back on I want the Bentley for.
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Jun 9, 2009 22:32
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Pissingintowind posted:Do you mind telling me how much the buyback price was and how much they gave you for the totaled car? I'm going through insurance hell right now. Fully loaded '96 M3 Lux, 75k miles: $11,800 Buyback price: $1550
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Jun 9, 2009 22:33
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Carbon Deity posted:Fully loaded '96 M3 Lux, 75k miles: $11,800 So how much did they pay out? 11,800? and you bought it back for 1550, and put 1000 into repairs? If that's correct, you are in great shape! Extra money to buy something with, plus you still have a car you like!
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Jun 9, 2009 23:23
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ab0z posted:So how much did they pay out? 11,800? Yeah, I think I'm really coming out on top here.
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Jun 9, 2009 23:33
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zycl0n posted:EDIT: Actually, this has me inspired to ask a question. We have an E30 Bentley, but it doesn't appear to cover the M42. Do we have to pick up the E36 manual to find that or did they release some kind of franken-manual that has this car in it? You just need the E36 manual, that covers all the M42 repair. I also suggest you supplement the bentley with a shitton of BMW forums, the bentley can be really lovely sometimes. The e30 bentley oil filter change is of note, it neglects to tell you their procedure is for the M10, not the M20. I had the airbox off before I even realized my mistake. Also, RealOEM is a loving lifesaver. Complete exploded assembly views for pretty much every part of the car.
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Jun 9, 2009 23:35
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Carbon Deity posted:Yeah, I think I'm really coming out on top here. That's so ridiculous! What are you going to do with the $9,250 extra?
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Jun 9, 2009 23:52
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Just got my first BMW. 2004 E60 525i. Considering the sort of driving I do, the 2.5l is all the engine I really need. It has the sport package but no nav and the communication screen telling me to go to a BMW center when I try and set up a phone. Not that I have to tell you guys but holy poo poo is this fun to drive!
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Jun 10, 2009 02:05
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Any recommendations on where to get a new driveshaft?
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Jun 10, 2009 03:17
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I'm going to look at a 98 e36 ci tomorrow. The car has 70k miles. The seller says that he's taken good care of the car and it shows from the pictures and the maintenance records (even replaced the water pump and radiator). However,upon running a carfax, it seems the car was involved in a rear impact with another car. Im concerned about this. Should i stay away or should i not worry about it? What things should i look for? I haven't spoken to the seller about the accident yet and probably won't until tomorrow.
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Jun 10, 2009 03:34
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ab0z posted:That's so ridiculous! What are you going to do with the $9,250 extra? He's going to be paying extra for insurance every month. Carbon, I'm in literally exactly the same situation with our old '95. Currently has 96k mi, we purchased for $8500 in 2008, three months later my wife rear-ended an Explorer and it was totaled. We bought it back and still took home a check for something like $9300. It's been sitting in the garage ever since, due to lack of time for serious projects. However, my wife is going to Europe for 3 weeks, and I've been slowly amassing parts to fix it. I did not have your luck of finding a Cosmos hood or fenders. So far, I've sourced a used OEM hood and bumper, new fenders, new radiator, new AC condenser, and new overflow tank for about $500 by waiting for good deals to come up on local forums. I have another $200 or so to spend at Certifit getting the rest of the front end parts and another $300 or so of misc fasteners, bumper shocks, etc. I feel that I'm doing it about as cheaply as it can be done, I'm impressed that you are budgeting only $1000. I'd consider adding a $500 "oh poo poo" budget to that. Maybe we should start a joint project thread? I'm planning to get started this weekend. Edit: then again... I talked to the body shop that did the original estimate for repairs ($8800), they said they could do the final assembly & paint for ~$1000. Might be worth just dropping the poo poo off and picking it up in a few weeks. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 03:47 on Jun 10, 2009 |
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Jun 10, 2009 03:45
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Ha, no poo poo about the insurance. So far I've replaced: Bumper - $400 Hood - $80 Headlight - $15 Bumper shock - $20 Nose panel - $50 Radiator support - $50 A/C R/D - $50 A/C Recharge - $100 Thinking of buying a complete cooling system replacement/upgrade kit from Zygmut for $250, just because I have the front end apart. Edit: I can put you in touch with a guy in CT that parts out dozens of E36 M3's. He can be pricey but can get what you need, fast. So far the project has been moving along seamlessly. You'll find that as you learn the way the car is built, it's really quite intuitive. To get down to the radiator support, I've used a ratchet with a total of three bit sizes (8, 10, and 17), and a #25 Torx key. I'm keeping all of the various bits and pieces in seperate labeled bags. He're the radiator support, which so far has been the trickiest thing to remove with a total of 12 screws/bolts.  rap music fucked around with this message at 06:29 on Jun 10, 2009 |
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Jun 10, 2009 05:12
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My 92' E36 is starting to crap itself electrically. Driver-side window regulator went (grr), SRS light won't go off (GRR), and now my speedometer went from spotty to 'flat out won't work'. The other two are small potatoes at this point (I would like to know what happened with the airbag at some point), so lemme ask about the speedometer. I went through the normal troubleshooting procedures here. The gauge cluster self-test shows that the speedometer gauge still works fine. I replaced the speed sensor with a replacement from bmwpartsweb.com (this guy) and still no go. I tried putting a multimeter to the speed sensor wires going into the cluster and seeing what happens when driving around the parking lot, but I had a hard time seeing what was going on. From looking at the speed sensor, I guess it's a coil and a magnet, and there's some sort of metal gear that goes between the two and interrupts the signal. So it's probably making a pulse train or a square wave of sorts, which would be difficult to see with a meter. I have a friend with a portable oscope, I'm gonna call him and see if he minds going for a drive with me. If I see a signal that looks remotely reasonable, that means the gauge cluster is foobar right? If not, then it's probably the wiring somewhere? I have an appointment set up with a bmw repair shop on Friday for this, but I want to try and figure this out while I have time. Also, when I pulled out the old speed sensor, I found a bunch of metal flakes around the magnet. I mean there's a ton of metal on it. I'll send a pic when I get home from work. I kinda want them to look at the differential and make sure it's not making GBS threads bearings or something equally scary. I don't have the tools or the know-how/mechanical competence to pull the differential myself 
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Jun 10, 2009 18:03
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moparacker posted:Pull the connector for the RR taillight and I'm sure you'll find that the brown ground wire has burnt and melted the connector. A very simple wiring repair can take care of that. I took off the cover holding all of the bulbs and looked at the wiring and connector... everything looked fine, no frayed or discolored wires that would indicate a burnt or shorted wire. Any other ideas? It only happens every few days, when I first turn the car on, and it stays on until I shut the car off again. Usually, it will not come on if the car is restarted after a few minutes. Any help figuring this out would be appreciated
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Jun 10, 2009 18:34
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I took the air filter out of my 540 and banged it against my bumper a few times and watched a loving PILE of dirt fall out of it. The engine seems a little happier now.
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Jun 10, 2009 21:08
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Xenoid posted:I took the air filter out of my 540 and banged it against my bumper a few times and watched a loving PILE of dirt fall out of it. The engine seems a little happier now. May I suggest buying a new filter?
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Jun 10, 2009 21:18
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ab0z posted:May I suggest buying a new filter? Don't need to, I need to oil it up since it's a k&n filter that was in there since I bought the car. Apparently there was a little electric plug going into the cab air filter on the driver side that disconnected itself so I reckon the HVAC is going to work better now, but I haven't tested it because it's too hot to bother using the air system and I don't have tinted windows so I'd rather not blow hot air at myself. I'm hoping it resolves the issue of my car randomly stalling at times as well too. I also washed the car for the first time since last summer since the pollen in the first half of the year turns cars yellow instantly and it is making me much happier. My front wheels were black from brake dust :P Once my back is up to the job I'm going to do a full wax/claybar/wash job. Xenoid fucked around with this message at 22:35 on Jun 10, 2009 |
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Jun 10, 2009 22:01
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SwashedBuckles posted:I took off the cover holding all of the bulbs and looked at the wiring and connector... everything looked fine, no frayed or discolored wires that would indicate a burnt or shorted wire. Any other ideas? It only happens every few days, when I first turn the car on, and it stays on until I shut the car off again. Usually, it will not come on if the car is restarted after a few minutes. Any help figuring this out would be appreciated Ok. What body style is the car? Miles? Are the correct style of bulbs installed (single element of good quality)? Have you had someone operate the lights while wiggling the bulb carrier or tapping on the lenses?
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Jun 11, 2009 00:06
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moparacker posted:Ok. What body style is the car? Miles? Are the correct style of bulbs installed (single element of good quality)? Have you had someone operate the lights while wiggling the bulb carrier or tapping on the lenses? It's an '05 330I sedan with ~65,000 miles. I got it certified pre-owned, so I assume all of the bulbs are stock. When I took the cover off they all looked good, and they all light like they are supposed to (i.e. when lights are on and when brakes are applied). Has anyone heard of this year/model being prone to electrical problems?
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Jun 11, 2009 13:31
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SwashedBuckles posted:It's an '05 330I sedan with ~65,000 miles. I got it certified pre-owned, so I assume all of the bulbs are stock. When I took the cover off they all looked good, and they all light like they are supposed to (i.e. when lights are on and when brakes are applied). Has anyone heard of this year/model being prone to electrical problems? Short answer: yes. Go back to the tail lamp, unplug the connector and look at the face of the connector on the harness. More than likely there will be a neat little melted circle in the black plastic around the ground pin (pin #2 on the left side, #3 on the right. Big brown wire). If you see some melting, there's a fairly cheap and easy repair which involves adding an additional grounding point to the tail lamp assemblies. If you're mechanically inclined I could walk you through it, but you'll need a handful of cheap parts from a BMW dealer (or a really well stocked independent) and some crimping pliers. If you see no melting at all then I'd examine the pins on the tail lamp assemblies for corrosion. If there's no corrosion I'd go ahead and replace the bulbs in the side that's giving you trouble. Sometimes the filaments fail, then manage to solder themselves back onto their posts forming a poor connection that fails sporadically. Bulbs are cheap anyway.
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Jun 12, 2009 00:59
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