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Grater posted:After all that I'm pretty sure I could have wrangled a better deal but I was satisfied. You only get to use that joke once, I hope it was worth it. Welcome to the Wrangler club. 
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Jun 9, 2009 06:31
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| # ? May 17, 2024 21:24 |
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^^I was wondering when someone would catch that.
Grater fucked around with this message at 22:17 on Jun 9, 2009 |
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Jun 9, 2009 19:06
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 I like to slap the idiot who engineered the front bumper on the JK. I had to replace a friends front plastic cladding, and instead of taking the 4 outer trim bolts and nutserts out and popping the plastic off and putting on the new bumper, you have to remove the air drat with it's plastic on plastic screws, disconnect the fog light harness, unbolt the tow hooks/bumper mounts and shims, remove lights, etc. The way the plastic is molded you can't just bolt it onto the truck, because the tow hooks are in the way. Since the tow hooks and the bumper mounting brackets are the same you pretty much have to disassemble everything. At least next time we touch it, it'll be to install a nice solid aftermarket bumper. gently caress that plastic cladding bullshit. It could be worse, at least I had access to both sides of most of the bolts, unlike on Ford trucks or SUV's. I'm spoiled by older trucks I swear.
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Jun 9, 2009 19:52
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Hey why would anybody ever want to remove a bumper unless the truck is totaled or if it's done by a body shop, right?
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Jun 9, 2009 21:17
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I took my rear seat out along with the rails the seat mounts to. Now I have a goddamn loud rear end annoying squeak. I can only imagine that those rails provided some sort of support to that area of the body. First I will try washers under the bolts and see if that changes anything, then if it doesn't I'll rig up a similar sized hunk of flat metal and bolt that in the seat rails place. I couldn't SEE anything but the squeak is coming from the body itself.
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Jun 10, 2009 00:34
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I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee and I need to recharge my AC before I go to Florida next week. Which port do I use, I found three of them one with a green cap, and two with a black cap. Also what all would I need to do this on the cheap?
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Jun 11, 2009 04:52
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Got my Rough Country 2.5" (pucks along with Shock extension/relo brackets) lift yesterday (only 2 days to ship!) and I have my Rubi Ultd springs/shocks ready to go. Other folks who have used this combo are averaging 3.5"-4" when complete. Never done a lift before so.... Am I going to have to worry about drive line geometry or any other 'gotchas' I have to keep in mind? Sway bars? Track bars?
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Jun 11, 2009 13:40
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From the HOLY gently caress FILES: http://blog.streetfire.net/2009/06/wrangler-with-a-twin-turbo-viper-motor.aspx V10 Twin Turbo Wrangler.
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Jun 11, 2009 15:57
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I took my rear seat out along with the rails the seat mounts to. Now I have a goddamn loud rear end annoying squeak. I've taken mine out and didn't have this problem. They don't provide support to anything as far as I can tell. quote:Never done a lift before so.... Am I going to have to worry about drive line geometry or any other 'gotchas' I have to keep in mind? Sway bars? Track bars? I don't know much about what happens with the JK when you get to 2.5", but with the TJ at that point you're usually looking at, depending on exactly how the lift settles: - Adjustable track bar, either front or rear depending on how the axles center - when you raise the frame up from the axle with a suspension lift, the track bar's throw shortens and it begins to force the axle to one side. Before you install the lift, you want to locate the axle's center point. Do this however you can: maybe put up a straightedge against the tire and measure it against the wheelwell, or any other way you can figure out. If either of the axles shift more than a half inch, you probably need an adjustable track bar on that axle to get it back to center. Several companies also make a track bar relocating bracket that bolt onto the axle-side track bar mount, raising the track bar up several inches and returning it to stock geometry. These are usually a whole lot cheaper than an adjustable bar. - Transfer case drop or CV-style rear driveshaft that uses U-joints. 2.5" is about where vibrations start to happen in the very short rear driveshaft. If you don't have any vibrations that aren't solved after an alignment, don't worry. Otherwise, you'll need to either lessen the driveline angle, or install the CV-style shaft that has a dual U-joint carrier on the transfer case end. I looked up the stock JK driveshaft and it is a typical weak tulip-style CV joint. Even if you don't have driveline angle problems with it, I'd suggest that you replace it at some point with a stronger driveshaft that uses U-joints. - Sway bar end links. Better check another Jeep forum for this info. The TJ had a problem with the stock sway bar links starting to bind up and fail after around 3" of lift - they were a weak little ball joint with a small range of travel. The usual fix is to just replace them with aftermarket disconnectable links that have a greater range of available joint travel, as well as allowing you to disconnect the sway bar for greater flex. I know the JK Rubicon has electronic disconnecting swaybars, but I'm pretty sure that they're only an option on lower models. Good luck getting the pucks onto the spring buckets. incredibull fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 18:10
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incredibull posted:Hey why would anybody ever want to remove a bumper unless the truck is totaled or if it's done by a body shop, right? Why would anyone have plastic on a bumper to begin with  I'm sure there's a reason, they probably wanted to make sure the cladding doesn't fly off in a collision if it's held on by 4 nutserts. The way it is now if the 4 nuts come out, the bumper cladding will still hang in place. I was going to suggest it was a service conspiracy in order to pad hours on something that's mundane, but with a lift and tools, you can still do the job under an hour and that's the minimum a dealer will charge anyways so that can't be it. Tossed_Salad_Man posted:V10 Twin Turbo Wrangler. How hard is that swap to do... I wonder. Is there a lot of computerized controls with the Viper engines? ECM and the works? I wonder what t-case/transmission he's using, as that will be one mean differential and axle cracking machine. Big K of Justice fucked around with this message at 18:33 on Jun 11, 2009 |
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Jun 11, 2009 18:31
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BigKOfJustice posted:Why would anyone have plastic on a bumper to begin with These are the same people that made the 2WD Wrangler. 
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Jun 11, 2009 18:42
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:These are the same people that made the 2WD Wrangler. That blew my mind when I found out... I never knew they made 2wd for sale to the public until I saw a new 4dr like that. WTF?
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Jun 11, 2009 19:38
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I'd buy one if it was a good bit cheaper than a 4x4. Living in Florida and cruising the around the beaches there's no need for 4wd. There's a lot of them in FL. Most Wranglers never go off pavement anyway.
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Jun 11, 2009 20:26
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leica posted:I'd buy one if it was a good bit cheaper than a 4x4. Living in Florida and cruising the around the beaches there's no need for 4wd. There's a lot of them in FL. Most Wranglers never go off pavement anyway. Yeah, exactly. Probably a solid 30% of Wrangler buyers will never NEED 4wd. Note that you don't NEED 4wd for snow in most areas of the country, there are plows, it doesn't get that deep (and frankly, without lockers you will only get slightly farther with 4WD than 2WD in deep snow.) Don't forget the DJ. It was available to the general public, through special order.
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Jun 11, 2009 20:47
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DILLIGAF posted:Got my Rough Country 2.5" (pucks along with Shock extension/relo brackets) lift yesterday (only 2 days to ship!) and I have my Rubi Ultd springs/shocks ready to go. Other folks who have used this combo are averaging 3.5"-4" when complete. In addition to what incredibull said, what you're looking for on your driveline is a slip-yoke eliminator (SYE). I don't know if the JKs need/use them but YJs and TJs do. It basically bolts onto your transfer case output and allows you to attach a U-joint carrier instead of having the splined driveshaft end slip in and out of the yoke. Not only does it help eliminate vibrations, but if you ever break something you can take the rear driveshaft out and not have to worry about pissing t-case fluid everywhere, so you can just drive home with the front wheels. Also that V10 YJ is just plain awesome.
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Jun 11, 2009 23:54
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I took my rear seat out along with the rails the seat mounts to. Now I have a goddamn loud rear end annoying squeak. You want the low pressure port. I've got a 2000 cherokee and for me it's virtually on the compressor on the input side. It has a black cap.
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Jun 12, 2009 02:20
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BEEP BEEP
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Jun 12, 2009 16:06
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ph4lcon posted:I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee and I need to recharge my AC before I go to Florida next week. Which port do I use, I found three of them one with a green cap, and two with a black cap. Also what all would I need to do this on the cheap? Usually green caps are evap system, black is A/C. I don't know if that is universal, but it has been on the few cars I've owned with A/C.
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Jun 12, 2009 17:20
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In looking for rear bumper/tire carriers the kind I like the most have "non rated" hitches. Now these bumpers have nearly twice as many mounting points and frame tie ins, why the "non rated" hitch? I ask because I won't tow boats or poo poo like that but may tow a small trailer now and then. Would that be acceptable with one of these non rated hitches? N/M I found something I think I am going to go with that is rated, and will have the same ability. Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Jun 12, 2009 |
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Jun 12, 2009 19:37
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Most aftermarket bumpers aren't rated due to liability reasons which is why they are usually just called 'recovery points'. No one's going to make a Class III hitch rated for 5000 lbs and say "Yeah, you can use this on a TJ" just because the mounts are identical. I've noticed all of the stuff worth buying comes from the small-time fab guys anyway; they'd be crazy to put any sort of towing numbers out there on their stuff. A small trailer should be fine if it has enough mounting points or ties in high enough into the frame. When I had my YJ, I used to tow around two full size jet skis just about every weekend during the summer.
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Jun 12, 2009 20:31
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ph4lcon posted:I have a 98 Jeep Cherokee and I need to recharge my AC before I go to Florida next week. Which port do I use, I found three of them one with a green cap, and two with a black cap. Also what all would I need to do this on the cheap? The compressor has two hoses coming out of it, a skinny hose (high pressure) and a fat hose (low pressure) that connects to a tank near your firewall. On my 98 Cherokee the port you're looking for is on the fat hose itself right before it connects to the tank, but even if it isn't, it will be on something connected to the fat hose. Don't touch the port on the skinny hose and you'll be fine.
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Jun 12, 2009 21:10
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If any of you are in the Charlotte area, there is a Meet & Greet at Keffer Jeep @ 12 tomorrow. Supposed to be vendor displays, free food etc.
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Jun 12, 2009 22:41
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I just ordered my spring spacers to raise the front, quick mirrors for no tickets and a rear bumper. Next I need to figure out if I want 4 new dunlops or 3 new wrangler mts and use my never used spare. I cant wait for my poo poo to be there like this when I get home. (ignore internet memeage)
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Jun 12, 2009 22:58
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Front and rear bumpers came in today, and I can't get the stock ones off. Not PB Buster, nor breaker-bar, nor torch-heating. I'm convinced the bolts are now a permanent part of the frame. Going to let a shop tomorrow crank them off.
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Jun 13, 2009 04:24
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Love Jeeps. Owned several XJs and ZJs. Currently a stockish 99 XJ.
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Jun 13, 2009 05:17
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ATTENTION ATTENTION. If you are wanting to buy some jeep parts this weekend is a good time to try and get some poo poo from 4wd.com. Use the coupon code of SAVEBIG and get up to 20% off everything sitewide. There's also double rebates on some wheels and tires, and I think a lot of poo poo also has free UPS ground shipping. I finally ordered poo poo i was waiting to find on sale and with the discount and free shipping I made out pretty loving well. This offer ends Monday June 15th at Midnight PST. GET YER GODDAMN PARTS. Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 12:23 on Jun 13, 2009 |
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Jun 13, 2009 12:11
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:ATTENTION ATTENTION. Cool... I was heading over to their local store after the M&G today, going to pickup some extended bump stops.
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Jun 13, 2009 13:54
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chocmilkrush posted:Just got some 31" tires and wheels.
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Jun 13, 2009 16:09
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leica posted:I'd buy one if it was a good bit cheaper than a 4x4. Living in Florida and cruising the around the beaches there's no need for 4wd. There's a lot of them in FL. Most Wranglers never go off pavement anyway. Tell that to the RWD XTerra that couldn't get itself off a grass incline (parked nose down) at a park I was at in Tampa yesterday. If my RWD BMW can get off the same hill parked the same way, that's just sad. Also doesn't 2WD tank your resale value relative to 4WD? traction control what up
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Jun 13, 2009 17:06
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For driving on or near beaches: As a FL resident who's driven in soft sand I must say I wouldn't take anything 2WD near sand. That's how I got one vehicle stuck and another one almost stuck trying to pull my Cherokee out of some mud.
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Jun 13, 2009 17:25
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Any recommendations on side-mirror mounts for a YJ? I'd like to stay legal if I take the doors off this summer. Tossed_Salad_Man posted:ATTENTION ATTENTION.
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Jun 13, 2009 19:36
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Finally got my top off for the first time today. I would have done it sooner but I didn't get my soft top until last week and the weather hasn't been nice enough to put it on yet. I picked up a Bestop Trektop, I'm about to install it, I'll let you all know how it goes. EDIT: Added link: http://www.bestop.com/index.php?s=75
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Jun 13, 2009 20:42
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Install of the TrekTop is all done. Aside from some slightly vague instructions it went well. I have only driven around the block with it but so far it's decent. I'll know more in the next few days.
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Jun 13, 2009 23:19
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Went to the Meet & Greet at Keffer Dodge/Jeep. Nice to put some faces with the names I have been interacting with on the web. I have uploaded 60+ pictures here: http://s49.photobucket.com/albums/f260/preacherspulpit/Jeep/Keffer/?start=all I thought I would share a couple of cool older Jeeps.   And this old willys    
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Jun 14, 2009 00:04
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evilnissan posted:Any rubbing issues? I am wanting to put some 31's on my 96 V8 ZJ but it will be a long time before I have the spare cash for a lift. I have the upcountry package giving it a 1" factory lift and I sawz-alled some of the inside of the front bumper to get rid of the rubbing. You might not have as good of luck but you can get some 3/4"-2" budget boost coil spacers to lift your jeep for only a few bucks to fit the tires. You could probably get away with just 3/4" spacers. http://www.quadratec.com/products/product_search.php?kw=coil+spacers+zj&submit=Go http://www.4wheelerssupply.com/catalog/product_info.php/products_id/1 http://www.extremegearoffroad.com/store/home.php?cat=340 There is a chart from ZJ FAQs section of jeepforums at http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=134378 I would upload the chart but waffleimages does not seem to be working right now.
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Jun 14, 2009 01:58
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Sasquatch! posted:Any recommendations on side-mirror mounts for a YJ? I'd like to stay legal if I take the doors off this summer. I'm going with http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=4993 But with a YJ, I had black aftermarket hinges that have the 4 holes for CJ style mirrors. I ran those and took the mirrors of the full steel doors. You can also drill the holes and mount the cj style mirrors. NC only requires a driver side exterior mirror and that's all I used, I hate the CJ style passenger mirror.
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Jun 14, 2009 02:21
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Question: I'm thinking of throwing a new set of wheels and tires on my Jeep here soon. I've been thinking about the Crager soft 8s (since their cheap). Whats the difference between 17"x8" and 17"x9's?? Will one accept a bigger tire than the other?? edit: Its an 08 JK.
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Jun 14, 2009 02:26
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spiralbrain posted:Question: I'm thinking of throwing a new set of wheels and tires on my Jeep here soon. I've been thinking about the Crager soft 8s (since their cheap). Whats the difference between 17"x8" and 17"x9's?? Will one accept a bigger tire than the other?? The number after the x (17x8/9) tells you how wide the wheel is. The wider the wheel, the wider the tire you can put on there. I think the widest you can safely go on an 8" wide is like 12.5"? I am sure someone will correct me about the max size if I am way off base.
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Jun 14, 2009 02:36
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spiralbrain posted:Question: I'm thinking of throwing a new set of wheels and tires on my Jeep here soon. I've been thinking about the Crager soft 8s (since their cheap). Whats the difference between 17"x8" and 17"x9's?? Will one accept a bigger tire than the other?? The general idea is that you don't want your tire to be more than 4 inches wider than the wheel. However, a lot of people on jeepforums prefer the 8" wide tires over going to 10" for off roading on their 12.5" wide tires. For you, you should probably go for the 8" wide wheel if your tire is around 10" wide. You don't want the wheel to be as wide as the tire.
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Jun 14, 2009 03:10
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Makes sense. Thanks.
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Jun 14, 2009 04:24
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