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We have a v500 at my current client's print shop and while I can't speak of the scan quality the LED light you don't have to wait for is amazing.
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Jun 16, 2009 07:38
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Newegg.com 24 hour sale on the Canoscan 8800f with promo code: EMCLTMT68 free shipping, final price $155.00, think I'm going to snag it.
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Jun 16, 2009 14:07
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evil_bunnY posted:We have a v500 at my current client's print shop and while I can't speak of the scan quality the LED light you don't have to wait for is amazing. Isn't it? After getting used to LED scanners, I get mildly angry when I have to wait for the photocopier bulb to warm up at work.
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Jun 16, 2009 15:46
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My V700 has to warm up. Mind you, it's such a short part of the overall scanning process that I don't find it to be a big deal.
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Jun 16, 2009 15:58
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Newegg.com 24 hour sale on the Canoscan 8800f with promo code: EMCLTMT68 free shipping, final price $155.00, think I'm going to snag it. Why do these assholes have to have the exact scanner I want on sale 3 days before I get paid... edit: nm I'm a blind and dumb motherfucker pwn fucked around with this message at 17:02 on Jun 16, 2009 |
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Jun 16, 2009 17:00
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TokenBrit posted:My V700 has to warm up. Mind you, it's such a short part of the overall scanning process that I don't find it to be a big deal.
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Jun 16, 2009 17:54
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I just bought an Olympus Stylus (35mm f/3.5) and Stylus Epic (35mm f/2.8) for $10 each. These are neat little cameras. The ones I have are crappy cosmetically but seem to work fine otherwise. They're small and light and the Epic takes pictures quite quickly considering that it's autofocus. I bought them as beater cameras to carry around everywhere because I'm kind of paranoid about losing my precious Contax T2 which is also heavier and bulkier. Can't wait to try them out. I plan on using the Epic as my concert camera for when I don't feel like bringing full gear or I'm not allowed to. EDIT: Oh yeah, Kenmore Camera even put new CR123 batteries in both of the cameras which is pretty cool seeing as the batteries alone cost almost as much as the cameras did. 
HPL fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jun 16, 2009 |
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Jun 16, 2009 20:38
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Reichstag posted:What about some Portra 400NC? pfft. more like VC. NC's for squares!!
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Jun 16, 2009 21:44
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:pfft. more like VC. NC's for squares!! Well, he did say he was shooting with a Hasselblad...
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Jun 16, 2009 21:54
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Newegg.com 24 hour sale on the Canoscan 8800f with promo code: EMCLTMT68 free shipping, final price $155.00, think I'm going to snag it. Sweet! I actualy got that email too, but I haven't been looking at them at all lately. Ordered!
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Jun 17, 2009 01:18
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:pfft. more like VC. NC's for squares!! Or people who like natural skin tones and a lower contrast negative...
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Jun 17, 2009 02:37
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I was feeling kinda down about not getting paid til Friday, then I saw that Newegg lets you pay by MO through mail!  Ordered it, sweeeeet.
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Jun 17, 2009 02:38
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So as a quick mini-update, the Stylus is definitely not a camera for discrete shooting. When you take a photo, it's like *click* *WHIRRRRRRRRR* *WHIRRRR* *click*. Guess I'll be leaving this one at home for the piano recitals. Fortunately, most of the times that I'll be using this will be in deafening conditions.
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Jun 17, 2009 03:39
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I bought Gnoma'am a Stylus Epic for Christmas a decade ago or so. She ran a lot of film through that camera doing kid snapshots and it always worked pretty well. The weather resistance is pretty cool too, definitely a good knockabout camera. It's even been to the Arctic Circle.
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Jun 17, 2009 05:27
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In other news, I acquired a couple more cameras recently, including my first clunker! Ricoh KR-10 Super, nice cosmetics but the operation seems problematic. After a couple of shutter cycles helped along with a sharp rap to the baseplate, said camera seized up hard with the mirror up and shutter partially open. New batteries did not fix the issue. Also picked up a Konica C35EF today, much better working condition, I loaded up some Lucky B/W and put it in the car. Nice compact and quiet "rangefinder", actually a zone focus, not a true rangefinder.
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Jun 17, 2009 05:32
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Well, I've been shooting large format for a fortnight now, so I suppose it's time to "come out". Large format shots up on flickr so far (in order from oldest to newest):   Yeah... Two. I have a few more that I haven't scanned and uploaded yet, though nothing special. I like the Adox CHS 25! I think I prefer the Ilford FP4+ though. I did some experimenting this week and I've settled on shooting FP4+ at ISO 80, and developing in HC-110 1+100 20C for 30 minutes, inversions every 3 minutes. The negatives come out good for scanning, though I think they may be a little flat for printing well. I'll see, scanning is pretty viable at the moment. The camera is a Sinar F2. Lenses are Ilex 90mm f/8 (apparently a reasonable copy of the Schneider 90mm f/8 Angulon), Schneider 150mm f/5.6, Schneider 210mm f/5.6. It's all really fun! Not hugely expensive, nothing compared to what we pay for some of our other toys in photography. Film costs can run away, but I think it's worth it. I've got some slide and colour negative film to shoot next week as well, results in a few weeks!
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Jun 19, 2009 01:19
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Tried out the Paterson reels today. Oh my lord are they horrible compared to the AP reels. The AP reels are wonderfully beautiful by comparison. With the AP reels, you have a huge tab to rest the film on while getting it into the ball bearing grippy things. The Patersons have almost nothing so there's a lot of trial and error before you can get it to go. If you're starting out in film developing and deliberating over whether to go AP or Paterson, definitely go AP. It's way cheaper and better.
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Jun 19, 2009 04:03
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HPL posted:Tried out the Paterson reels today. Oh my lord are they horrible compared to the AP reels. The AP reels are wonderfully beautiful by comparison. With the AP reels, you have a huge tab to rest the film on while getting it into the ball bearing grippy things. The Patersons have almost nothing so there's a lot of trial and error before you can get it to go. Aww man, I just scored a Patterson tank with two reels yesterday. At least it only cost me a shitbid of $12. Question to those with experiencing developing B&W: I generally do most of my shooting when I'm traveling, how feasible would it be to set up a little travel kit for developing when I'm on the road? Are pretty much all the chemicals you need available in concentrated form? Would most of it be able to fit inside an empty developing tank for storage when I'm not using it? My R3a arrived yesterday and I'm so excited... the LTM-M adapter got here earlier in the week but I'm still waiting on a Jupiter-8 from Moldova and a J-9 from Ukraine. If the dweebs on RFF would answer their PMs I might be able to get a Nokton 40mm for my trip to DC next week :-\ Watching some eBay auctions on the Voigtlander glass and checking the classifieds on RFF I've been pleasantly surprised at how affordable the used stuff is (not that the retail price is that bad).
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Jun 19, 2009 04:53
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Aww man, I just scored a Patterson tank with two reels yesterday. At least it only cost me a shitbid of $12. I can't speak about the AP system, but Patterson reels are pretty easy to load once you've done it a couple of times. I hold my reel and film in my left and and guide the end of the film in with my right, easy peazy. Also, a casual reminder to plastic reel users that chemistry builds up on the reels over time, be sure to clean them every once in while. I left mine soaking for a couple of hours in warm water and by the end it smelled pretty distinctly of fixer.
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Jun 19, 2009 06:21
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Question to those with experiencing developing B&W: I generally do most of my shooting when I'm traveling, how feasible would it be to set up a little travel kit for developing when I'm on the road? Are pretty much all the chemicals you need available in concentrated form? Would most of it be able to fit inside an empty developing tank for storage when I'm not using it? It's perfectly feasible if you're traveling by land, and most great photojournalists did their developing on the road in hotel bathrooms or worse. They might not fit in your tank, especially because you're going to need some containers for your chemicals in their mixed form, but it won't take up that much space.
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Jun 19, 2009 06:33
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dunno posted:I can't speak about the AP system, but Patterson reels are pretty easy to load once you've done it a couple of times. I hold my reel and film in my left and and guide the end of the film in with my right, easy peazy. Yeah, they get a black film on them after a while. I scrub them with dish soap and a brush, but I like the sound of your method better. As for the AP reels, you've seriously got to try them if you're used to Paterson. They work smoother, are more solid and way easier to load. Reichstag posted:It's perfectly feasible if you're traveling by land, and most great photojournalists did their developing on the road in hotel bathrooms or worse. They might not fit in your tank, especially because you're going to need some containers for your chemicals in their mixed form, but it won't take up that much space. If you're doing some really picky stuff like major push processing or whatever, be careful that the mineral and chemical composition of tap water varies wildly across the continent and may potentially affect your development times.
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Jun 19, 2009 06:58
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Aww man, I just scored a Patterson tank with two reels yesterday. At least it only cost me a shitbid of $12. While I haven't tried anything else, Paterson tanks are OK to work with, in my opinion. Load it once or twice in the bag with a dummy film or paper cut to size, then you're good to go. One problem with keeping chemicals in the developing tank is that it is generally filled with the reels. Also, you need somewhere clean to mix the chemicals (that contain enough to fill the tank). Third, you may want to bring readymade solutions that can be sued more than once (like Diafine, or fix). I got it down to tank+bag+four 0.5L plastic bottles (only one reel), which while travellable, isn't really ideal. What'd you give for the R3a and lenses?
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Jun 19, 2009 07:03
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The smallest kit I could imagine using is: Thermometer Small bottle of rodinal 600ml measuring vial (smaller if you only dev one 35mm film at a time) 10ml syringe Tank and reels Darkbag Something to time with (watch/phone/clock/whatever) 1l bottle of pre-mixed fix. The small rodinal, syringe and thermometer will go in the tank, leaving you with a darkbag, tank, vial and 1 bottle. Perhaps not convenient for a round the world backpacking trip, but doable.
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Jun 19, 2009 10:01
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Snaily posted:While I haven't tried anything else, Paterson tanks are OK to work with, in my opinion. Load it once or twice in the bag with a dummy film or paper cut to size, then you're good to go. D'oh, that's so obvious about the reels being in the tank  You don't need a changing bag if you have a dark room, right? I was figuring bathroom + towl under the door would probably work. On the other hand, I suppose a changing bag isn't super weighty/bulky. I paid $275 for the R3a, which seemed like a steal at the time, although now that I have it I notice that the leatherette is a little peely and the RF needs a smidge of vertical adjustment. Apparently the vertical alignment thing is a common issue with Bessa's, it looks like a fairly simple fix from what I've been able to find online. The J-8 was about $32, and I paid $110 for the J-9 (decided to treat myself to a black one with the accessory finder, since a silver one I ordered earlier in the week came with a ton of scratches and had to be returned). I want something wider now, hoping to score a used Nokton 40mm f/1.4 next, which is sort of the "kit lens" for the R3a's widest framelines. HPL posted:If you're doing some really picky stuff like major push processing or whatever, be careful that the mineral and chemical composition of tap water varies wildly across the continent and may potentially affect your development times. Yeah, I was thinking I'd probably use bottled water to be more consistent (even those will differ a bit I suppose, but probably be more consistent than the tap), would that work? TokenBrit posted:The smallest kit I could imagine using is: That doesn't sound bad, although what's the deal with the pre-mixed fix? Would it make more sense to just mix my own as I go so I'm not toting around a liter of liquid? Thanks for all the helpful replies guys!
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Jun 19, 2009 14:10
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Leatherette is easy to fix. Just put a wee bit of contact cement on the underside and clamp it down for a bit.
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Jun 19, 2009 15:46
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Maybe you guys can help me out with rangefinders. I want something under in the $100-$200 range, easy to use, full manual, and pocket-able for everyday use. I can't seem to Google a good consensus and range finder forum doesn't really help me make decisions, though I am quite certain that I don't have to spend $1000 on a Leica. I want to use it for "street" photography, creative snapshots, and concert shots where the SLR wont fly past security. Ideas so far are Olympus 35RC, Cannonet QL17, and a bunch of confusing Russian cameras.
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Jun 19, 2009 20:06
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Maybe you guys can help me out with rangefinders. I want something under in the $100-$200 range, easy to use, full manual, and pocket-able for everyday use. I can't seem to Google a good consensus and range finder forum doesn't really help me make decisions, though I am quite certain that I don't have to spend $1000 on a Leica. Be aware that a lot of the older rangefinders can't go above ISO800 and sometimes not even above ISO400, so if you plan at shooting at 1600 or 3200 like at concerts, either look for a camera that can work manually without the light meter or get a compact SLR like a Pentax MX or Olympus OM-1 with a small lens. Also, watch out for cameras that have maximum shutter speeds of 1/250 as that will severely limit the flexibility of film speeds you can use in various situations. Look for a max shutter speed of 1/500 or faster. Another annoyance of old compact rangefinders is that even when they can work manually, many of them will only be able to use the light meter in auto exposure mode. As soon as you turn it to manual, off goes the meter so you have to guess exposure or bring an external light meter. Oh yeah, and then there's the battery issue. If you want the camera to meter properly, you'll have to either re-calibrate the light meter for modern batteries or get those Wein batteries which cost more but do the job. That's why I love the Pentax K-series and later SLRs. They were built for alkaline batteries right from the get go. I know about all this because basically I'm trying to find something with the exact same criteria as you. HPL fucked around with this message at 20:40 on Jun 19, 2009 |
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Jun 19, 2009 20:32
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quote:Maybe you guys can help me out with rangefinders. I want something under in the $100-$200 range, easy to use, full manual, and pocket-able for everyday use. I can't seem to Google a good consensus and range finder forum doesn't really help me make decisions, though I am quite certain that I don't have to spend $1000 on a Leica. Unless you're talking cargo pants or a jacket, I don't either the 35RC or QL17 are really "pocketable" cameras. Do you need a light meter? If not, a FED-2 (Russian RF) might be a good choice. The later FED's have light meters, but they aren't terribly reliable and the cameras are fugly as hell. The lack of higher film speeds can be a real drag, a workaround with the Canonnet I've heard of is to use the meter at 800 and then switch to manual, transfer the settings and do the mental calculations for the higher speeds. I just sold an Olympus XA (ASA 25-800 from the factory) that I had a tech modify to meter a stop faster, which opened up ASA 1600 shooting. The XA is definitely pocketable and has a 35mm f/2.8 lens, as well as a nifty clamshell design that does away with the need for a lens cap, although it doesn't have full manual control (just aperture priority). You could pick up a broken one for around $20 on eBay, then send it to a tech to do the light meter mod. I went with Midstate Camera, servicing the XA (including the mod) cost $65 with a pretty reasonable turnaround. The caveat is that not every XA is fixable, he was able to fix one of the ones I sent but not the other. Working ones generally go for around $100.
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Jun 19, 2009 21:24
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If you're feeling really ballsy, you could try something like a Minox GT-S which is scale focus, no rangefinder. It's small and the latest models like the GT-S can go up to ISO 3200 and it has an f/2.8 lens so it should be adequate for concerts and low light as long as you're good at estimating distances.
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Jun 20, 2009 01:46
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:Maybe you guys can help me out with rangefinders. I want something under in the $100-$200 range, easy to use, full manual, and pocket-able for everyday use. I can't seem to Google a good consensus and range finder forum doesn't really help me make decisions, though I am quite certain that I don't have to spend $1000 on a Leica. There is no pocketable rangefinder apart from the Olympus XA, IMO. Others can get very small, but you'd need a coat pocket at best for even something tiny like the 35RC. If you're still looking for small, there's a range of older folding rangefinders - the Kodak Retina series is probably the cream of the crop.
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Jun 20, 2009 11:45
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Anyone know what tool I need to unscrew the flap spring on a Hasselblad 501c (should be the same as most non-electric 500 series)? It's the final tweak I have to make...
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Jun 20, 2009 17:00
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dunno posted:Or people who like natural skin tones and a lower contrast negative... i don't want to get into an internet argument about which film is better but i have gotten some lovely skin tones out of 160vc at least... on medium format AND 35mm for that matter
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Jun 21, 2009 10:20
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:i don't want to get into an internet argument about which film is better but i have gotten some lovely skin tones out of 160vc at least... on medium format AND 35mm for that matter As I've been lead the believe Portra NC/VC look nearly identical when exposed at box speed, but when over-exposed NC just gets deeper shadows whereas VC gets deeper shadows and more vivid colours. I'm not going to tear into VC users or anything, I'm just generally going for a desaturated look with my own photographs.
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Jun 21, 2009 10:45
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So I've been messing around with Freestyle's Legacy Pro 100 and it is definitely Fuji Acros 100. It's awesome for just about everything that ISO 100 type of light will allow. If you bulk load film, it's great because you can't buy bulk Acros 100 so this is a way to get around that.
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Jun 21, 2009 17:44
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HPL posted:So I've been messing around with Freestyle's Legacy Pro 100 and it is definitely Fuji Acros 100. It's awesome for just about everything that ISO 100 type of light will allow. If you bulk load film, it's great because you can't buy bulk Acros 100 so this is a way to get around that. Can someone educate me on bulk-loading film? Having to change film every 10 shots (or to a lesser extent on 35mm, 36 shots) is getting quite tiresome.
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Jun 21, 2009 19:18
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dorkasaurus_rex posted:Can someone educate me on bulk-loading film? Having to change film every 10 shots (or to a lesser extent on 35mm, 36 shots) is getting quite tiresome. Bulk loading is where you buy a 100' roll of film and load it into 35mm cannisters, not where you load the entire roll on a camera. Also, bulk loading is only common for 35mm. Haven't seen anything for 120.
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Jun 21, 2009 19:32
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You can't really fit more than 40 shots worth of 35mm film in a canister. It's just cheaper.
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Jun 21, 2009 19:34
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HPL posted:Bulk loading is where you buy a 100' roll of film and load it into 35mm cannisters, not where you load the entire roll on a camera. Also, bulk loading is only common for 35mm. Haven't seen anything for 120. Not to be pedantic, but there are bulk film backs for some SLR's. (Although yeah, generally that's not what bulk loading means)
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Jun 21, 2009 19:45
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Not to be pedantic, but there are bulk film backs for some SLR's. (Although yeah, generally that's not what bulk loading means) I know. I've kind of wanted to get one of those but they're sort of wacky for actual use and it would take forever to go through a roll unless I was doing a big music festival or something. EDIT: Ran a test roll through both Stylus cameras. The f/2.8 one works great in low light but it has light leaks and needs electrical tape around the door to seal it. I'll probably see if I can round up one in better condition. Concert photos are very comparable to my Contax T2 except the Stylus acts faster and is lighter and slightly more compact. It's also better at handling flash photos than the T2 which tended to blow out concert flash photos more often. The only downside to the Stylus is that the viewfinder is small and somewhat difficult to compose with on the fly in low light, but that's unavoidable. The older f/3.5 one is awesome. Took it out for a walk in the park and it exposed photos just about perfectly and was quite sharp. I'd have a hard time picking out photos from it versus my film SLRs. If you're looking for a small walk-around film camera, I definitely recommend it. HPL fucked around with this message at 21:08 on Jun 21, 2009 |
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Jun 21, 2009 20:04
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I got a bulk roll of tmax 400 from the thrift store for two dollars and I have been wondering what to do with it. I don't really intend on getting another bulk roll of film, should I get the back for $20 or just a bunch of reusable film cassettes?
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Jun 21, 2009 21:06
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