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mike fictitious posted:In other news, I have another random question: Less work, and used correctly, the bungies work just fine. Plus you could torque the hell out of your seat using ratchets on it.
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Jun 18, 2009 18:11
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Well, battery is probably not the problem. Jumped it off the car (off of course). Would stall 5-10 seconds after I disconnected the car. Let it run for a while on car battery. Tried holding 3-5k throttle for a bit. Eventually took it off the car battery and it seemed to idle. Put seat back on. Geared up. Rode it to the top of my street. Stopped. Made a turn. Stopped again. Pulled ahead. Prepared to turn again from a stop, and it stalled. No response on the display, lights, or anything. Dead dead. Eisenhower thinks it might be the alternator because it doesn't seem to be charging from the engine. What does the SV thread think?
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Jun 18, 2009 22:04
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Reg/rec
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Jun 18, 2009 22:11
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ranathari posted:Reg/rec Yup. What charging voltage are you getting under load? What output are you getting from the stator wires against one another (AC current)?
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Jun 18, 2009 22:17
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I don't have a multimeter because so far I've managed to sneak through life without needing one. I did some reading up on reg/rec's at your recommendations, though. I'll get a hold of one and start testing. Unfortunately, it will have to wait until next week. At least that sounds way easier to replace than at stator.
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Jun 18, 2009 22:47
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mike fictitious posted:I don't have a multimeter because so far I've managed to sneak through life without needing one. I did some reading up on reg/rec's at your recommendations, though. I'll get a hold of one and start testing. Unfortunately, it will have to wait until next week. The stator isn't particularly bad to replace on an SV, iirc. Check all of the connectors as well, to makes sure they haven't burned themselves up, as I've seen that happen. Especially if you're getting nothing from the stator. Good luck, let us know how it goes 
Z3n fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jun 18, 2009 |
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Jun 18, 2009 23:02
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echomadman posted:Thats just sad, you could have got a dBkiller for the jardine. Stock SV's sound like poo poo. Just got back from my first ride with the stock exhaust. It sound like a can of angry bees and a mixture of rawrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I think it is hilarious and awesome. Sooooo loving quiet not compared to what it was before. I love it.
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Jun 18, 2009 23:05
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Does anyone have comparison videos of different SV exhausts?dietcokefiend posted:Just got back from my first ride with the stock exhaust. It sound like a can of angry bees and a mixture of rawrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. I think it is hilarious and awesome. Sooooo loving quiet not compared to what it was before. I love it. There's also a definite noticeable difference in performance between the slip on Yoshimura and stock exhaust. Charles 1998 fucked around with this message at 02:51 on Jun 19, 2009 |
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Jun 19, 2009 02:49
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Jack the Smack posted:Does anyone have comparison videos of different SV exhausts? Weill in my case it was the difference between a smoothly operating SV and one that would pop and have a lean condition.
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Jun 19, 2009 04:39
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dietcokefiend posted:Weill in my case it was the difference between a smoothly operating SV and one that would pop and have a lean condition. Does the FI system need to be retuned when making a dramatic change in the exhaust system? Or is the computer in the system designed to reprogram itself when it notices changes? If so, in the case with your Jardine, did your FI not get reprogrammed? edit: grammar jdonz fucked around with this message at 20:31 on Jun 19, 2009 |
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Jun 19, 2009 16:59
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jdonz posted:Does the FI system need to be retuned when making a dramatic change in the exhaust system? Or is the computer in the system designed to reprogram itself when it notices changes? Some bikes handle it better than others, but generally a full system requires a rejet. You always have a hole where the EPA tests because the bikes are leaned out there anyways to pass emissions, and a full exhaust with no powercommander or reflash will always make that spot worse. On a gen one SV you can usually just get away with shimming the needles. On a gen 2 you need some sort of fuel commander or other addon, as I don't believe anyone reflashes the stock ECU.
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Jun 19, 2009 17:21
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Makes sense. I've heard a few differing opinions, mostly in favor of rejetting. A couple months ago I was in a dealership talking to one of the salesman about exhaust and specifically asked him about rejetting. He mentioned that part of selling the rejetting with exhaust was because dealers could extort some more money for the work. One of these days I'd like to put some new exhaust on my SV but I can't make a decision on what I want. I'm kind of a loner (surprise,surprise) and the few friends I do have don't ride, so I don't know what a bunch of different exhausts sound like. I can read about how other people like the sound of theirs, but I'm not going to base spending ~$500 - $900 without hearing it myself. I'm sure its been asked a thousand times, but what are the pros and cons of going with a slip-on versus a full system? I think I prefer a full system but that is probably because I think (for no reason I can think of) putting a slip-on is kind of half-assing it. Also, I can get rid of my golding/blueing pipes with a full system. Other than price (equipment and rejetting if necessary) are there any other reasons for installing a slip-on versus a full system?
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Jun 19, 2009 20:42
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jdonz posted:Makes sense. I've heard a few differing opinions, mostly in favor of rejetting. A couple months ago I was in a dealership talking to one of the salesman about exhaust and specifically asked him about rejetting. He mentioned that part of selling the rejetting with exhaust was because dealers could extort some more money for the work. That's actually suprisingly honest from the salesman's part. Any aftermarket solution (pc3 or jet kit) is going to give you some settings or a map that will probably match your bike pretty closely. From there, only very mild tuning should be needed. To really get a bike running perfectly, you need dyno time with a good tech to deal with the very fine tuning. But that's only going to show minor gains in power and MPG. I'm using baseline specs for my flatslides and mods (admittedly from a master SV tuner) on my trackbike, and I haven't had the need to touch anything, and I've got plenty of power. On an SV, my opinion is that a full system is really only fully taken advantage of when paired with other mods. I'd say that flatslides, cams, and a full exhaust is what's needed to really wake up an SV. I extensively tracked mine with shimmed stock jetting/full exhaust, modified airbox/rejetting/full exhaust, flatslides/full exhaust, and cams/flatslides/full exhaust, and the full set of mods is where the bike really came together. When I was running the stock carbs, the gains just didn't really make enough of difference for me to recommend a full system to a street rider. Even with track use, the gains were questionably useful. You'll get a small power gain, made better with proper tuning, from a full system on it's own, but you can get most of the full system HP gain with a decent tune and a slipon. There's basically no gain, in terms of RL performance, from a full system. With the performance gains minimal, you may as well just get the slipon for sound. If you're looking to just improve the bike period, dump the money into the suspension. I've tried to explain/give my opinions on exhaust sound in the past and it's really just something you have to hear for yourself. I love the way the M4, Leo Vince, and Yoshi full systems sound on the track, for street use they're too loud for my tastes. My friend has a nice micron highmount, and my g/f had a renegade highmount (slipon), both of which were loud at full tilt but could be quiet when you didn't get on it. Liveable for the street. Z3n fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jun 19, 2009 |
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Jun 19, 2009 22:50
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Z3n posted:Yup. What charging voltage are you getting under load? What output are you getting from the stator wires against one another (AC current)? OK, after acquiring a multimeter, I now realize I have no idea how to find what you are asking. Here is what I did find... 1] The battery is dead. It is reading 3.01V. 2] The reg/rec is not the same place in a 1st gen as a 2nd gen. I just disassembled the whole rear end-half of the bike. The thing I found did not look like the thing in this link. I pulled it off to take a picture (below). Then I downloaded the 03+ service manual, and it says the reg/rec is under the tank... so I have no idea what I pulled off. In other news, this guy has the exact symptoms, but never posted what it was. I'm off to check the main fuse while I have the seat off. edit: Fuses look fine. mike fictitious fucked around with this message at 01:37 on Jun 24, 2009 |
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Jun 24, 2009 01:30
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Get a decent battery - before you try to diagnose anything you need a good battery.
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Jun 24, 2009 06:49
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Z3n posted:I'm fairly certain that that is it. You'd probably have to mod some clevises to get it to fit, but that's not too difficult. What kind of aftermarket shock would you recommend for me?
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Jun 24, 2009 14:12
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Coredump posted:What kind of aftermarket shock would you recommend for me? Any of them are fine. For street use, I'd go with the cheaper ones, no need for anything fancy/remote reservoirs, etc. Just a vanilla aftermarket shock that's set for your weight. For track use, you may as well drop the extra cash to have the additional adjustability. You can try and find one used, but it's not really a winning proposition because you're going to have to have it rebuilt and resprung for your weight. Even if you can find a used one for a reasonable price, (say, 300$ or less), a rebuild and respring is anywhere from 300-400$. So at that total cost, you may as well just get one from the factory that's set up for your weight for 700-800$ and is brand new. Ignore the pictures, here's the one without the remote reservoir: http://www.hordpower.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_5&products_id=355 And here's the one with: http://www.hordpower.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_5&products_id=267 I'm running the 8983 on my trackbike. It'd be mad overkill for street use. As to companies who make shocks, I've never heard anything bad about any of them. The list that comes immediately to mind is: Ohlins Penske Elka Works Hagon Racetech I'm probably missing a few, but they're all drat good.
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Jun 24, 2009 16:40
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I've heard good things about Wilbers
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Jun 24, 2009 18:09
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Zenaida posted:I've heard good things about Wilbers They're good too. You'd be hard pressed to find a "bad" aftermarket shock, honestly. At competition levels you may run into some flaws, but for street riding? Nah.
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Jun 24, 2009 18:11
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Z3n posted:I'm running the 8983 on my trackbike. It'd be mad overkill for street use. Now when you say mad overkill do you mean too stiff? Or more adjustability than I will need? If its the latter than I may go ahead and do it since I've got the gsxr front fork on the bike already. Might as well balance it out right? 
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Jun 24, 2009 21:58
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Coredump posted:Now when you say mad overkill do you mean too stiff? Or more adjustability than I will need? If its the latter than I may go ahead and do it since I've got the gsxr front fork on the bike already. Might as well balance it out right? More adjustability than needed. Stiffness is controlled by either the spring or the shim stack/valving within the shock, and is set to your weight and riding style (street, track, race) when you order a shock. Buying the fully adjustable one will help resale should you decide to part the bike in the future, which is a bonus. If you think you'll ever go to a track, I'd buy the fully adjustable one. If you're not, I'd save the 200$. If the 200$ won't make a real difference to your bottom line, just get the fully adjustable one.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:08
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Z3n posted:If the 200$ won't make a real difference to your bottom line, just get the fully adjustable one. Fully adjustable here I come! (This may be something that is several weeks down the road before I get.)
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Jun 24, 2009 22:20
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Ordered a corbin seat for my sv650 in all leather all around. Should be smooth sailing for my rear end in no time. God the stock seat is horrid.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:28
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dietcokefiend posted:Ordered a corbin seat for my sv650 in all leather all around. Should be smooth sailing for my rear end in no time. God the stock seat is horrid. Would you mind posting a trip report when you get it installed? gently caress, between exhaust, suspension and seat, I'm having a hard time deciding where I should spend the little money I have.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:41
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jdonz posted:Would you mind posting a trip report when you get it installed? Do you have a gen one or 2? I've got a nice corbin for sale off of my street SV if you want it.
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Jun 24, 2009 22:46
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Z3n posted:Do you have a gen one or 2? Gen 2, its a 2004. I checked our your seat (not  ) in the sell your poo poo thread. I was bummed it was for a gen 1.
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Jun 24, 2009 23:00
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jdonz posted:Would you mind posting a trip report when you get it installed? I will let you know in about a month  . Lead time for the custom work is long as poo poo.
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Jun 25, 2009 02:01
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Corbin seat just shipped today, should arrive Friday  Also started to check my valves. So far I have checked the rear cylinder only, since I dont want to drain the coolant just yet. Intakes were .15 and .18, exhausts were a slightly loose .28, probably 29 ish but it was hard enough to slide the .28 into the odd position, .30 would have been god damned impossible to flex in there. Hopefully the fronts turn out nice as well.
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Jun 30, 2009 06:12
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I didn't have to drain the coolant to check my front, I just popped the radiator mounting bolt out and held it forward with a bungie strap. Made plenty of space This was on an '03 though, I forget what year you have. Good luck!
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Jun 30, 2009 15:17
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PitViper posted:I didn't have to drain the coolant to check my front, I just popped the radiator mounting bolt out and held it forward with a bungie strap. Made plenty of space This works. Disconnect the fan and the overflow tube and you're pretty much good to go. Clearance is a little tight, but nothing too bad. Sometimes I'm lazy and I'll swing the radiator out of the way intact, sometimes I do it right. It's easiest on my trackbike because it doesn't have a fan or anything else.
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Jun 30, 2009 16:52
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Dietcokefiend, can you ask the PO of your bike where he got that headlight from? I don't see any black models on http://www.xesighting.com/ and I've found two places that list them for $300 instead of $500, but they are chrome. Also, how is that headlight treating you? Care to do a mini-review? Maybe some pictures of the beam? I know you have that one of the beam against your garage door but I would like to see what it looks like aimed down the road. Thanks!
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Jun 30, 2009 18:41
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Well, my bike lives again. Thanks for the assistance. I pulled the rec/reg. We ran a battery of multimeter tests and had intermittent circuit breaks, culminating in not being able to complete the circuit at all. It also had some scoring on the bottom side of it. I ordered a new Electrosport. It came and I got it back on OK. I tried to recondition and recharge the battery, but it just wouldn't hold juice. I bought a new Yuasa (the previous one was an Everstart from WalMart, classy). Charged it up last night and went for a ride today. Everything seems fine. I still want to test the battery to make sure it's charging. I only ended up with 1 extra screw. No idea where it goes. It is a single, tiny screw that had no mate (unlike everything else I pulled off).
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Jun 30, 2009 18:48
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Coredump posted:Dietcokefiend, can you ask the PO of your bike where he got that headlight from? I don't see any black models on http://www.xesighting.com/ and I've found two places that list them for $300 instead of $500, but they are chrome. Also, how is that headlight treating you? Care to do a mini-review? Maybe some pictures of the beam? I know you have that one of the beam against your garage door but I would like to see what it looks like aimed down the road. Thanks! I would love to do a review of it, I absolutely LOVE the loving thing. It is basically 75% of the reason why I ended up buying this particular used bike. You won't find a black version of the light. The PO had the chrome ring powdercoated matte black. build quality of the thing is impressive. It is entirely sealed against the elements and made from cast metal. The entire assembly probably weighs in at like 5lbs. Give me a few days to compile some words and pictures (maybe even tonight if I have enough time). The beam is beautiful. drat near perfect cutoff and the pattern is amazing for lighting up the road and sides of the road. Highbeam is a shield, so you have instant high-beam for flashing people. I feel roughly 9000x safter riding this bike at night around deer over my ZX600 which might as well have a maglite taped to the handlebars.
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Jun 30, 2009 18:56
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mike fictitious posted:I only ended up with 1 extra screw. No idea where it goes. It is a single, tiny screw that had no mate (unlike everything else I pulled off). http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm..._COVER_MODEL_K1 i fitted a new clutch (steel plates and fibre plates) and heavier springs to stop the slipping which had gotten really bad with the -1 front sprocket. its like a new bike now, had to recalibrate my throttle hand quite a bit, obviously there was a lot of slip going on for ages and i'd gotten used to it.
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Jun 30, 2009 19:36
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dietcokefiend posted:Corbin seat just shipped today, should arrive Friday My  and I are waiting anxiously for the report.
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Jun 30, 2009 19:52
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Ok, I'll play.  2006 SV650N I bought her bone stock a year and a half ago, my first bike, she had 4k miles on her then, now 16k miles and counting. Even though I've bought another larger bike since then, I still love my SV and coudn't imagine getting rid of her. Hopefully I'll be able to take her to a trackday within the next month or so. Viper Stubby RaceCan Suburban Machinery Type2 bars .90Kg Sonic Springs fork springs 2004 ZX-10 rear shock Aftermarket turn signals Fender elim. Motosliders Seargant seat Napolean bar end mirrors Pirrelli Diablo Stradas It's seen everything from snow, to the top of The Dragon, at night, in the pouring rear end rain. Jay_Zombie fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Jul 1, 2009 |
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Jun 30, 2009 19:57
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jdonz posted:My What is your size? My report will be based off being 6' 2" and 240lbs
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Jun 30, 2009 20:27
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dietcokefiend posted:What is your size? My 5'8" and 185lbs, I'd imagine some of your experiences will still transfer.
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Jun 30, 2009 20:46
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echomadman posted:is it the one marked #17 inthis pic? I'll poke around on that site though, thanks.
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Jun 30, 2009 22:27
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Ok time for some HID pictures of the XE7 system on my 2007 SV650 Dark street, a few street lights every few hundred feet, that is what is casting my shadow. I am also on an incline right in that spot, where it levels off about where the 2nd house is that is lit up, part of the reason why the high is so high. Low cutoff is still excellent though, which you can see doesnt even light up past the grass level on that persons house. Exposure on the camera is locked to make all pictures on equal terms, but figure slightly less bright than as shown.    These dont really do it justice though when you are talking about a two lane highway that is perfectly level. poo poo is lit-up for a LONG ways away. If I can find a safe spot to take that picture I will, but for now you get shots at the end of my driveway.
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Jul 1, 2009 03:44
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