|
Hey guys, can I play?     Picked her up a few weeks ago, coming from a 1.8T turbo passat, is night and day in terms of power (160ish HP to 260 HP), the car is a joy to drive, well maintained and not trashed around, it has less than 23,000 KMS and dealer records.. all for less than 8,000 US (it was a weekend car), a full Fujitsubo Legalis R exhaust and gray/pink Sti pedals. How ever I have NO INFO on these twin turbo engines, I heard they are really finnicky and also, sometimes I get loud THUMPS when downshifting from the rear... I guess bad differential bushings? Anyways, is there a information resource for these cars? I'd like to know timing belt changes and how to on spark plugs.. also the gear fluid and other stuff, so any links will be appreciated. Happy to be in the Subaru Crowd!
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2009 21:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:57 |
|
|
Just Another XY posted:So school's over, loans finished and Don't worry about the tranny, the 6 speed in the STI is pretty much bombproof. I would still be wary about buying a used STI unless you can get someone who knows Subarus to go check it out with you and see if it's been previously modified. Also, get a carfax, and maybe a dealer inspection. The 09 WRX is an awesome car, and it's actually faster than the current generation STI in some mag acceleration tests. That being said, you have to decide if picking up an 07 STI instead will be worth it to you, do you want the DCCD, Brembos all around, and the 6 speed? The 09 WRX also uses a 2.5 motor as well, except with a Legacy style intercooler/turbocharger setup, and can probably make pretty comparable power once you start modifying it. Also, the 09 hatchback looks awesome
|
|
#
?
Jun 17, 2009 21:36
|
|
it's time for a new car.
|
^^^^ So to clarify – My basic suspicion of the previous owner driving the poo poo out of the car is probably correct, yes? As for the STI, I don't know much about Subarus specifically, but I'm doing my best to figure out things. Are there any parts I should look at in particular to try and gauge how much damage the 07's gotten? It has ~15k miles for over 2 years, which is pretty light. I'm definitely looking at the higher performance (DCCD, better suspension, etc) of the STI vs. the WRX. I'm just worried that parts will start failing on me because of an idiot previous-driver.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2009 07:51
|
|
|
^^ Look around on NASIOC for sale forums. Theres some good cars for sale. A guy up in NOVA is selling an STI previously owned by Dave Mirra, modded out the rear end, with only 4K miles on it. I believe it was an 06 or 07.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2009 11:30
|
|
|
Just Another XY posted:^^^^ Drive it and see if the clutch is slipping at all. Check rotors and pads for any wear. Other than that just ask the guy what modifications were done. I would think your main concern would be any ECU modifications the guy has done himself. If it has been pro-tuned or if it's just an OTS map I would not worry. 15k on an 07 is spectacular. I would check to see if it is still under warranty too! I have around 30k on mine and had 2 problems so far: bad CV joint and lighter assembly not working (oh and the alarm notification doesn't beep sometimes :P ) - all covered under warranty. You will not be disappointed with the 07 STi!! Definitely worth looking into.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2009 16:03
|
|
|
I've been looking for an '06 in good condition since November and let one good one slip through my fingers because someone else was faster in picking it up. I'm getting pretty antsy now to replace my AWD DSM and always saw myself purchasing an STi for my next car. I ran around with a few guys that had STis and I've always loved the cars. I've been avoiding NASIOC and IWSTI for the most part because I don't really want something that someone's modified or beat on too much. I found a great looking '06 STi about 3 hours from where I am, 29000 miles, WRB, and only wants 22.6 for it. Here is the ad if anyone's curious. Judging from his asking price and the asking price of similar cars around here, it seems very fair for a clean car. Edit:  car is sold
Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 18:09 on Jun 18, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2009 17:04
|
|
|
quote != edit
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2009 17:05
|
|
|
Just Another XY posted:^^^^ You can size them up. A friend of mine bought an 80k mi STI (for a great price) and it has been perfect. He bought it from an older guy who just didn't seem the type to abuse his car. Oh and if the ad says it has never been tracked, expect hard track days and beat to poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2009 18:14
|
|
|
Whats every ones opinions on this turbo for a 2007 WRX? http://www.blouchturbo.com/turbos/WRX_TD05H-EVO_III_Big_16G-7CM2/ Current mods: Full 3 inch exhaust, catless downpipe. TurboXS huge sized TMIC Cobb OTS stage 2 map. When I get the turbo, I would get a protune, probably from up in NOVA, IAG or something, and add in an Injen CAI. I dont launch or anything else destructive to the tranny. Most of the time I shift before boost because I have a very short commute, but want to be able to get it when needed. Theres a guy very local to me selling that turbo brand new in the box.
|
|
#
?
Jun 18, 2009 23:17
|
|
|
Just Another XY posted:So school's over, loans finished and Dang the 02-04s have glass transmissions? I learned to drive stick on my bugeye and I stalled a good number of times. I hope that's not true. I love that bugeye.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2009 09:50
|
|
|
69sofine posted:Dang the 02-04s have glass transmissions? I learned to drive stick on my bugeye and I stalled a good number of times. I hope that's not true. I love that bugeye. If it's a subaru 5 speed, it's a "glass transmission". My friend that has rebuilt a few of them says the probable common cause of failure is when you shockload the unit with a hard 1-2 shift, the input shaft flexes and the resulting incomplete gear engagement causes the ensuing gear tooth salad. The 6-speed is an entirely different transmission, and shares nothing with the 5. If you look at the 6 you will see the adapter plate between the trans and the subaru bellhousing. The solution to the problem with a subaru 5 speed is: Get an STi, and never worry about it, or get an aftermarket gearset, they're hard to break, or just don't shockload the transmission by launching hard (drag racing, etc).
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2009 16:23
|
|
|
Do all Subaru's share the potential for pain in the differentials when starting stupidly aggressively on tarmac? From what I've read, the differential ends up eating the energy normally spent on spinning tires. Is this still an issue in all Subaru's or have they at least made STis more resilient at least?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2009 16:51
|
|
|
ab0z posted:If it's a subaru 5 speed, it's a "glass transmission". My friend that has rebuilt a few of them says the probable common cause of failure is when you shockload the unit with a hard 1-2 shift, the input shaft flexes and the resulting incomplete gear engagement causes the ensuing gear tooth salad. I don't feel like that is true of the later year model 5spds. Though not as indestructible as the STi, they're far from being "glass" in the LGT. I know people that were pushing 3-400 WHP through the stock 5spd. Yes, I'm sure how you drive can affect any transmission, including the STi, but I think the 5spds can still hold a reasonable amount of power.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2009 17:17
|
|
|
ssjonizuka posted:I don't feel like that is true of the later year model 5spds. Though not as indestructible as the STi, they're far from being "glass" in the LGT. I know people that were pushing 3-400 WHP through the stock 5spd. Yes, I'm sure how you drive can affect any transmission, including the STi, but I think the 5spds can still hold a reasonable amount of power. Yeah they can hold a lot of power, but you'll still break them launching hard enough, whereas the STi trans is unbreakable pretty much at all. The 5mts have been improved slightly throughout their life, but the basic design still has the same flaws. It just comes down to how you drive it. Edit: at the shootout last weekend a 2004 blew the trans, and that was the year they made the gears stronger. A whole bunch of GC/GM/GF cars (many turbo swapped) and any number of 02+ cars all ran without breaking transmissions. The thing to break was actually axles - the GRD car I think broke 2 or more, and I helped change one on a 98 impreza. ab0z fucked around with this message at 20:10 on Jun 19, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2009 19:54
|
|
|
The only reason why I had to replace my transmission is my center diff self destructed and contaminated my gear oil and destroyed all my bearings. The bearings in my transmission were seized when I brought it into the shop and I was still driving around just fine on it. Only at the very very end (like, the last 10 miles) did I start having any driveability issues and they were binding going around turns. So, let me repeat, my transmission was hosed to the point where the bearings were 100% shot, they were eating the races, yet the shift action stayed a-ok and the car drove fine aside from binding. Does that sound like a 'glass transmission' to you?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2009 22:48
|
|
|
ab0z posted:Yeah they can hold a lot of power, but you'll still break them launching hard enough, whereas the STi trans is unbreakable pretty much at all. The 5mts have been improved slightly throughout their life, but the basic design still has the same flaws. It just comes down to how you drive it. I thought the 5spd in 08/09 Imprezza was different? I thought I read on NASIOC that it was a modified LGT box?
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2009 23:21
|
|
|
ab0z posted:Yeah they can hold a lot of power, but you'll still break them launching hard enough, whereas the STi trans is unbreakable pretty much at all. The 5mts have been improved slightly throughout their life, but the basic design still has the same flaws. It just comes down to how you drive it. I think the 09's and maybe 08's are using stronger yet 5-speeds.
|
|
#
?
Jun 19, 2009 23:32
|
|
|
Just Another XY posted:^^^^ have a compression check done. If it comes up okay buy the car and don't worry about it. Or, if it's not great, lowball the poo poo out of them and spend the money you save on forged pistons. Mr. Powers posted:I think the 09's and maybe 08's are using stronger yet 5-speeds. In 04 all 5-speeds switched to wider 1, 2 and 3. As far as I know they are the same width as RA gears but not shot-peened or something, and that they have not been changed significantly since then. They will generally hold up to 350-400 wtq, but that also depends on the driving. My friend was running 430whp/460wtq through a stock (06) 5-speed for quite a while before he broke 3rd. Then he broke it again and has been driving like that for months now. Anyway, how about some fun pictures?  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. That's the very first 08 sti cosworth long block produced. I'm putting it together next week. Here's a super mad-tyte JDM EJ207 with a cosworth stroker kit. And a stock location ATP 35R. Those intake ports are loving huge compared to a US STi.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. we just got the 1000cc injectors and the turbo inlet pipe gets here next week so I can finally get that thing together too. Also here's my shitbox legacy:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:39 on Jun 20, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 20, 2009 07:19
|
|
|
 My brakes breaked 
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 12:09
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:My brakes breaked Whoah, what did that sound like?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 14:36
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:
how exactly did you manage that? Which vehicle is this?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 14:38
|
|
|
ab0z posted:how exactly did you manage that? Which vehicle is this? Looks like the two pot brakes on my MY2002 NA Impreza. Thats some impressive damage.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 14:40
|
|
|
8ender posted:Looks like the two pot brakes on my MY2002 NA Impreza. Thats some impressive damage. They're twin piston, but with both pistons on one side?
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 14:43
|
|
|
Well it's either his STI or the 06 Impreza, at first I thought it was the STI as it looks like it's been through some dirt rally stage, but they're not Brembos, so I don't know. CT how did you do that, did you land too hard or smack a rock really good.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 15:23
|
|
|
ab0z posted:They're twin piston, but with both pistons on one side? Thats how my fronts are setup. Then again Subaru is crazy about part sharing so it really could be almost any model.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 16:01
|
|
|
I just joined the AI Subaru club. I traded in my 06 S2000 for a 2008 Legacy SpecB. I LOVE this car. It is a little bigger, heavier, and a lot slower than my 06 Evo, and obviously completely different than my 06 S2000, but I do love this car. 6 speed, Navigation, leather seats with suede inserts, SI drive, and SO comfortable. The ride is incredibly smooth while being very planted and responsive on the 18" wheels. The best part is the sticker was almost $37k and I got this for $26k. I originally went to the dealership to look at an '09 WRX and saw this on the lot. It was the last 08 model they had on their lot and they really wanted to clear their inventory. I've always had a thing for the Legacy GT, and for this price I couldn't go wrong. Please excuse the cell phone pics, I'll take proper pictures with a decent camera soon and upload interior, engine, etc if there is interest. I will say it feels VERY weird being in a Subaru after owning 7 turbo Mitsubishis, but it's pretty clear Mitsu doesn't offer anything like this in their lineup. The Lancer Ralliart is as close as it gets, but the amount of luxury the Legacy offers for the price seems unmatched right now.   
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 19:51
|
|
|
So I'm at something of a dilemma. Recently I was driving my 1990 Subaru Legacy (165,000 miles) and when I was slowing down and braking, the engine stalled (and consequently the steering wheel became hard to turn, but still could). It didn't happen again so I didn't worry too much about it, but then the same thing happened about a week later, this time coasting in a parking lot. In the past three weeks it's happened about 4 times in total, all when slowing down and either braking or just coasting like in a parking lot. I took it in to the mechanic today and after looking at it, thought it was likely the air idle control valve. He called up a dealer to see if they had one and it was about $340, and with labor he estimated about $500 in total to replace it. So he said if I wanted it fixed I'd have to likely have that as a first step and didn't really like the idea of it because the stalling has only been occasional and we likely wouldn't know if fixing it would have worked for a while after. I told him I'd think about it. So now I'm here. I've read that it's possible to clean the IACV but I don't know if it's possible on a 1990 Subaru Legacy, or if it'd even work, but it could potentially save me quite a bit. Does anyone else have any other possible suggestions about what the problem could be? I appreciate any help.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 21:56
|
|
|
If it is a broken idle air control valve, giving it a shot of Seafoam or similar probably can't make things worse.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 22:43
|
|
|
TurboLuvah posted:Well it's either his STI or the 06 Impreza, at first I thought it was the STI as it looks like it's been through some dirt rally stage, but they're not Brembos, so I don't know. It's four pot WRX brakes on the STI as the Brembos dont fit under rally wheels. The next picture I'll post will explain it all - but basically aluminium control arms have a finite rally service life and fail unexpectantly and at the worst time -_-
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 00:59
|
|
|
Something is not right here. My first indication was when I drained the oil and saw a gudgeon pin in the sump.   That first pic is of the #3 piston. Smashed the rod through the bore and pumped oil and coolant into the exhaust and turbo.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 09:18
|
|
|
Cat Terrist posted:It's four pot WRX brakes on the STI as the Brembos dont fit under rally wheels. The next picture I'll post will explain it all - but basically aluminium control arms have a finite rally service life and fail unexpectantly and at the worst time -_- yeah, that's the thing about the aluminum arms. They're stronger and stiffer than the stamped steel parts but they tend to break rather than bend. 
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 09:51
|
|
|
Dogless Liberal posted:
The IACV literally takes 30 seconds to remove. Two screws attach it to the top of the throttle body. You will also want to get a new gasket. Unscrew it, clean it out with brake clean, and put it back on. In any case, it's completely pointless to buy a brand new $340 part from a dealership for a 1990 legacy when you could probably find a working one in a junkyard for like $10.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 09:58
|
|
|
I am looking at a 2002 WRX wagon with relatively low mileage for the age (115k km), full documentation, and a pretty nice body and an adult owner who speaks and writes in full sentences. Here's what he's told me:
On the test drive, I will try the "index card test" to see if there is blow-by. Allmakes said the ECU does not need retuning, and I'm inclined to believe them, since they're a very well known shop around these parts and patronized by guys with seriously high-powered STIs. edit: Apparently the owner has had the latest full inspection and service done ahead of schedule, and everything came up cherry. I will still do the index card test, but it seems pretty solid mechanically. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 00:51 on Jun 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2009 22:04
|
|
|
jamal posted:yeah, that's the thing about the aluminum arms. They're stronger and stiffer than the stamped steel parts but they tend to break rather than bend. Aluminum does not and at some point will always fail if there is any flex (always doesn't mean soon) (The best example of this is that Hawaiian Airlines jet that lost its roof 20 years ago) nm fucked around with this message at 01:47 on Jun 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2009 01:44
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:
The replaced up-pipe means that the cat in the original up-pipe failed. When the pre-turbo cat fails, it tends to damage the turbo. Hopefully the replacement up-pipe was catless. A compression check would be better than the index card test. Well, I have a busy two weeks ahead of me. Finally have most of the parts for these things:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Cosworth long block, cosworth intake manifold. More than you can afford, pal.  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Rods, pistons, APS TSR70 twin scroll, jdm-tyte spec-c one piece manifold, just about ready to go in the car:  Click here for the full 1280x960 image. JDM EJ207, cosworth 2.2 stroker, ATP stock location 35R: Click here for the full 1280x960 image. Also here's the new aquamist HFS-6:  I've done two now and they've only shipped the group buy.
|
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2009 05:04
|
|
|
jamal posted:The replaced up-pipe means that the cat in the original up-pipe failed. When the pre-turbo cat fails, it tends to damage the turbo. Hopefully the replacement up-pipe was catless. I'm assuming that when the cat fails in the up-pipe, the sensor(s) don't expect it and so there's an increased amount of unmetered exhaust pressure which leads to compressor surge because the ECU can't regulate oil (if variable) or the bypass valve; in this case there was an exhaust leak, so it would seem that the turbo was being underused instead of overdriven. Is that right, or wishful thinking? How long should the turbo last on a stock WRX? I assume they will burn out more readily than other engine components because of the high temperature and RPM load. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 07:05 on Jun 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2009 07:01
|
|
|
Seat Safety Switch posted:I'll make sure the compression test is in the inspection log; he had an inspection as well as the 150k km service done this last week. no. if the cat fails in the up-pipe, chunks of said cat go through the turbine and trash the turbo. I've seen seized turbos with a chunk of cat stuck in the wheel. as long as the turbo makes full boost and doesn't make funny noises I wouldn't worry about it. A catless up-pipe, fuel pump, turbo, injectors, and tune should be your first mods anyway. Seat Safety Switch posted:Nice water (methanol?) injection kit, and thanks for the tips. jamal fucked around with this message at 09:31 on Jun 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2009 07:35
|
|
|
I'll definitely try to take a listen to the turbo. I assume it'd make a grinding or clunking noise instead of the nice sweet sound of really fast rotation. How would I check to make sure maximum boost is being hit without a boost gauge? Thanks for your help! Oh, so you don't just do Subarus at your shop. There's a meth-injected M3 cabriolet here with the "Stage 2.5"  HPF kit, and it's pretty frightening. Water injection is such a simple but effective solution.I was thinking of handling improvements before the power; given that even the EJ20 would be giving me almost literally twice the horsepower at lower RPM than I had before, I think I'll have enough power to keep me happy for quite some time (or until I get the modification itch, which may well be a few days after purchase). This is kind of a goober question, and I'm by no means serious about it, but I've seen a bugeye wagon with a front-mount intercooler and a scoopless hood and it makes a killer sleeper. Would you only do a front-mount intercooler if your cooling needs are not met by the relatively small scoop inlet? What are the downsides of doing that? It seems like you'd have to move a bunch of stuff around in the engine bay to fit, and swapping for a (larger) STI top-mount intercooler is probably much easier. If I get a bugeye, I'm also looking for a waist spoiler since I kind of like the look. From a cursory search it appears there are no waist spoilers for 04+ wagons. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jun 26, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 26, 2009 15:14
|
|
|
broken turbos generally make loud screeching sounds. If the car seems to be making reasonable power I wouldn't worry too much about it. Front mounts are useful when you have a big turbo moving more air at a higher pressure, which creates more heat. A big bar and plate core like the perrin or APS can cool down more air. The other thing is that having an intercooler on top of a hot engine can sometimes hinder it's ability to function properly. Both the perrin and aps kits come with everything you need including detailed instructions and fit relatively well. As much as it pains me to say nice things about perrin, the newest front mount kits have the best fitment I've seen. Today I got to basically sit and stare at three motors I'm waiting on parts for. But another block showed up from the machine shop and I actually had almost everything for it. Here's what it looked like when I left work today:  The irritating thing is that we built the motor last year, and it came back with a bunch of melted mahles and destroyed cylinder liners. We still have no idea how the owner managed that. At some point it trimmed out a lot of fuel so we're assuming he changed something and caused a leak. And then it detonated a shitload, and he kept driving it. jamal fucked around with this message at 06:19 on Jun 27, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2009 06:16
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 9, 2024 23:57 |
|
|
jamal posted:
Haha who cares, he obviously has money to piss away.
|
|
#
?
Jun 27, 2009 15:00
|
|