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Fire Storm posted:Curious. See, here's the problem: I need to use this to make a spark that's intense enough to ignite butane. This means pretty much any spark will do. However, the spark that the circuitry of a disposable camera would produce would be way, way too overpowered. It would be the equivalent of wanting a cat and getting a lion. The reason this is a problem is because I'm already playing with fire and risking getting burned, and I don't want to play with electricity and risk getting shocked as well. Now, I'd be perfectly willing to use that very same circuit if the capacitor were smaller. I'd also be willing to find, purchase, and solder in a smaller capacitor. The problem is that I have no idea what rating the capacitor would need to produce a small, non-painful spark. If someone can tell me what rating I should look for, I'd gladly go searching for it.
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Jun 13, 2009 05:22
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neogeo0823 posted:I'm already playing with fire and risking getting burned
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Jun 13, 2009 05:43
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Fire Storm posted:Ok... post those pics you talked about. I want to know whats going on. I don't have any pictures yet because it's not done. I suppose the best way to describe what I'm making is that it's a very custom lighter. The reason I'm so gung-ho about getting an electric starter is because of the way it's going to ignite the butane, as well as its position on the mount I'm making for it. If I go with one of those piezo clicker things, I'll have to drill a hole through the push-button part of the clicker, tie a string to it, and pull it to light the igniter. If I can find an electric starter, I can just take the actual ignition button, solder some wires to it, and run it out to where it can easily be pushed with one finger. The reason I can't do the same with the piezo clicker is because it will be too big to fit where the button would go. Even if it could, it would not be in a position where I could easily push it with one finger.
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Jun 13, 2009 06:02
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How can I frame a poster that is 30x50 (in.)? The craft store wants 330 dollars and that is just way too much.
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Jun 14, 2009 17:24
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Empty Pockets posted:How can I frame a poster that is 30x50 (in.)? The craft store wants 330 dollars and that is just way too much. Michael's has 50% off framing sales all the time, you could wait for one (probably be ~$150, maybe a bit more with the good UV glass). Otherwise there are a ton of "how to frame" tutorials on the net but since it's not a standard size you'd probably have to make the frame yourself which would be the tricky part (as well as pay some place to cut you the right size UV glass and round the edges). Matting and all that is relatively simple, it's the frame/glass which is tricky/expensive. Also try local framing places if you're in a big city, sometimes you can find good deals at those with coupons running in the local paper or whatever.
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Jun 14, 2009 17:29
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Empty Pockets posted:How can I frame a poster that is 30x50 (in.)? The craft store wants 330 dollars and that is just way too much. I think posters look good in float frames which would be really easy to build. Just get two identical pieces of glass that are larger than your poster stick it in the middle, and frame it out with wood.
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Jun 14, 2009 19:17
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Not Memorable posted:I think posters look good in float frames which would be really easy to build. Just get two identical pieces of glass that are larger than your poster stick it in the middle, and frame it out with wood. If it's something he wants to keep nice for a long time, that's not a good idea. The thing being framed should not be touching the glass, and the glass should be UV protected. Married to an archivist. If it's just some throw away movie poster or something, then that's not a bad idea.
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Jun 14, 2009 20:21
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mcsuede posted:Michael's has 50% off framing sales all the time, you could wait for one (probably be ~$150, maybe a bit more with the good UV glass). Otherwise there are a ton of "how to frame" tutorials on the net but since it's not a standard size you'd probably have to make the frame yourself which would be the tricky part (as well as pay some place to cut you the right size UV glass and round the edges). Matting and all that is relatively simple, it's the frame/glass which is tricky/expensive. That 330 is with 50% off at Michaels. I really don't mind building the frame, so I guess my question should really be where is the cheapest place I can find a panel of glass (uv/glare free if possible) that big?
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Jun 14, 2009 22:31
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I've never done any tiling before. What's the best way to handle tiling a smallish (2.5' x 2.5') backsplash between my cooktop and extractor hood? I understand I should be using backerboard rather than directly tiling onto the current wall, but I don't like the idea of the backsplash standing 1/4" (plus the thickness of the tile) proud of the wall if I overlay the backerboard on the wall. Would it be better to remove the current drywall, and replace it with backerboard directly attached to the studs? I assume I could shim it if necessary to keep it even with the current wall. What would be the best way to handle the border between the drywall and the backerboard? Also, is there anything particular I should be looking for in terms of grout or mortar for the environment (above a gas cooktop)?
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Jun 15, 2009 19:12
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You should definitely remove the existing wallboard, not just layer on top of it. If it's something like plaster on lathe you might be able to tile directly on that with quality mortar. No idea on specialty considerations above a cooktop, great question.
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Jun 16, 2009 04:45
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Empty Pockets posted:That 330 is with 50% off at Michaels. I really don't mind building the frame, so I guess my question should really be where is the cheapest place I can find a panel of glass (uv/glare free if possible) that big? A lot of hardware stores will cut glass to any size and round the edges for you, call around, remembering to ask for UV protected high-clarity glass.
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Jun 16, 2009 04:46
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Hobnob posted:I've never done any tiling before. What's the best way to handle tiling a smallish (2.5' x 2.5') backsplash between my cooktop and extractor hood? I understand I should be using backerboard rather than directly tiling onto the current wall, but I don't like the idea of the backsplash standing 1/4" (plus the thickness of the tile) proud of the wall if I overlay the backerboard on the wall. You don't need backerboard on a kitchen backsplash. There really isn't any issue with going right against drywall as no pressure/weight needs to be distributed on the tiles. A floor or wet-wall such as a shower is something else entirely. I would recommend a darker grout as no matter how clean you are, it will get dirty over time.
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Jun 17, 2009 15:08
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Ahz posted:You don't need backerboard on a kitchen backsplash. There really isn't any issue with going right against drywall as no pressure/weight needs to be distributed on the tiles. A floor or wet-wall such as a shower is something else entirely. I would recommend a darker grout as no matter how clean you are, it will get dirty over time. This is good advice, I would also add to make sure if you tile directly over the wall you sand back the existing paint first, so that your tile cement bonds better.
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Jun 17, 2009 17:40
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Empty Pockets posted:How can I frame a poster that is 30x50 (in.)? The craft store wants 330 dollars and that is just way too much. http://www.wholesaleposterframes.com/index.php They cut, assemble, and mail complete ready to fill and hang aluminum frames for 1/3 the price of any other place I've shopped. I built a frame the size you need in their custom frame section just now with clear UV glass and foam core backing for $103.00 - well worth it for the product, they look really nice on the wall.
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Jun 17, 2009 20:18
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I have ugly kitchen cabinets that I want to paint. They are this weird fake wood. I've tried taking a power sander to them to rough them up a bit so the paint (Kilz latex) will stick but it just makes them really really smooth. I tried using a rougher sand paper. No dice. Is there something I can put on there to prime them? I don't want to paint them all just to have it flake off in a week.
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Jun 17, 2009 21:18
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microwavedkat posted:I have ugly kitchen cabinets that I want to paint. They are this weird fake wood. I've tried taking a power sander to them to rough them up a bit so the paint (Kilz latex) will stick but it just makes them really really smooth. I tried using a rougher sand paper. No dice. Is there something I can put on there to prime them? I don't want to paint them all just to have it flake off in a week. You might be SOL. What kind of "fake wood" are you talking about? Is it particle board with a veneer face? Pictures might help.
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Jun 18, 2009 01:01
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microwavedkat posted:I have ugly kitchen cabinets that I want to paint. They are this weird fake wood. I've tried taking a power sander to them to rough them up a bit so the paint (Kilz latex) will stick but it just makes them really really smooth. I tried using a rougher sand paper. No dice. Is there something I can put on there to prime them? I don't want to paint them all just to have it flake off in a week. As kid sinister says it really depends on what sort of "fake wood" it is. Also, when you say "Kilz Latex" are you talking about a top coat or a primer? No matter how much you sand back, you will have to prime it anyway - especially if it is something like chipboard or MDF which soaks up paint faster than a alcoholic sponge in a beer mug. I'm guessing from your choice of paint you're in the US, so I'd recommend one of the Zinnser primer-sealers, either the acrylic (latex) or enamel (oil based), depending on what exactly you are putting it on. You'll probably need two coats of primer-sealer before you put the top coat on.
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Jun 18, 2009 15:25
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kid sinister posted:You might be SOL. What kind of "fake wood" are you talking about? Is it particle board with a veneer face? Pictures might help. its exactly that. i got the primer version of kilz but it scratches right off. I'll see if i can get some pictures up tonight
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Jun 18, 2009 16:58
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whats the best way to remove dry paint from carpet other than cutting the fibers out/off? I got a couple small spots i need to fix before moving, and wondering whats the best method. edit: its normal household latex paint Cabana Boi <3 fucked around with this message at 17:41 on Jun 18, 2009 |
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Jun 18, 2009 17:36
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http://www.kilz.com/pages/default.aspx?NavID=61 posted:A note on curing time: Your problem is likely just that your primer hasn't cured correctly yet. Usually if a primer is not going to stick at all it will be obvious when your putting it on. If you do want to use a different primer BIN primer by Zinnser is pretty much the best for unusual substrates. It is shellac based so you will need to pick up some denatured alcohol to clean up if you don't have any. The denatured alcohol is also good for cleaning any sanding dust or oils that might be on the cabinets. Cabana boi: It depends how much there is if its not too thick denatured alcohol will work some what. Goof Off would be the next step up in potency but make sure you try it in an inconspicuous area first because it could damage the carpet. jeremiah johnson fucked around with this message at 18:06 on Jun 18, 2009 |
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Jun 18, 2009 18:02
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Cabana Boi <3 posted:whats the best way to remove dry paint from carpet other than cutting the fibers out/off? I would try either ammonia or acrylic brush cleaner. As jeremiah johnson says, be careful to spot test on an unobtrusive bit of carpet first though. jeremiah johnson posted:If you do want to use a different primer BIN primer by Zinnser is pretty much the best for unusual substrates. It is shellac based so you will need to pick up some denatured alcohol to clean up if you don't have any. The denatured alcohol is also good for cleaning any sanding dust or oils that might be on the cabinets. The shellac primer is very good, and is more likely to work if any other primer fails, but it's a real pain to work with in my experience.
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Jun 18, 2009 20:54
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microwavedkat posted:its exactly that. i got the primer version of kilz but it scratches right off. I'll see if i can get some pictures up tonight Don't go overboard with sanding veneer. It's possible to sand right through it. Some of the newer, super cheap fake wood has veneer thinner than paper. If you don't want to replace the cabinets, you could always glue down a new veneer. Basically, you just pry off the old stuff, clean up the surface, glue on the new stuff, wait until dry and use a router to trim it back to the existing edges.
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Jun 18, 2009 21:44
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the carpet paint came out with rubbing alcohol, also came off pretty easy off of the mirrors which had some small spots on the top.. thanks for the help guys
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Jun 18, 2009 23:03
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I've got a problem with my new refrigerator. It's a GDL22KCWSS. I've got no cooling or lights in the refrigerator section, but the freezer is fine. The GE guy came out and replaced the main board, but it's a 3 day turnaround on a service call and this refrigerator has only been working for 2 of the 8 days we've had it. I've read that there is a couple of ways this could be happening. If the cold air isn't being directed to the fridge it's the damper or the fan. If the air isn't cold enough it's the compressor/condensor/defrost circuit. I was actually at the fridge when it happened this morning and I heard it click, then the lights cut off. Any advice?
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Jun 19, 2009 16:32
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Vaporware posted:I've got a problem with my new refrigerator. It's a GDL22KCWSS. I've got no cooling or lights in the refrigerator section, but the freezer is fine. That actually sounds like a loose connection somewhere and the act of you opening the door managed to wiggle it loose.
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Jun 19, 2009 18:18
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Yeah, but I can "fix" it by unplugging the fridge for a minute and plugging it back in. The repair guy said that the fridge light is run off the main power supply and shouldn't be off unless the unit isn't getting power, except I have photos of the fridge light off and the freezer light on, plus I can hear the compressor running.
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Jun 19, 2009 19:35
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Vaporware posted:I've got a problem with my new refrigerator. It's a GDL22KCWSS. I've got no cooling or lights in the refrigerator section, but the freezer is fine. Demand a replacement? That's what I would do.
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Jun 19, 2009 19:39
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Blowupologist posted:Demand a replacement? That's what I would do. I am suddenly reminded of my parents clothes dryer years ago that was less than a week old that had 2 failures at the same time: The drum stopped turning and the sensor that shuts off the rest of the dryer (such as the heat and blower) failed at the same time. That did not end well. The store was very helpful and gave us a replacement within about 48 hours.
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Jun 19, 2009 23:50
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i have a first floor screened in patio and i want to find a way to keep water out. the main way water gets in is when the sprinklers come on and spray sideways. rain water doesn't seem to get in very far. is there some kind of material (cheap?) that i can line the screen with, maybe 3-4 feet high? is this the best way to solve the problem? thanks.
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Jun 20, 2009 19:56
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Do you have control of the sprinklers? If you do you could get a blue tarp and put some nails on the outside of the porch and hang it up just while they're on. It wouldn't be very pretty but it would be cheap. you could also put up clear plastic sheeting which would look a little better but not much.
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Jun 21, 2009 00:28
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jeremiah johnson posted:Do you have control of the sprinklers? If you do you could get a blue tarp and put some nails on the outside of the porch and hang it up just while they're on. It wouldn't be very pretty but it would be cheap. you could also put up clear plastic sheeting which would look a little better but not much. i don't have control over the sprinklers, the apartment mgmt company has been real douchebags about it and won't mess with the sprinklers for my benefit. my current idea is to get some reed fencing ~5 feet high to put around the patio since i want some privacy anyway and maybe get some plastic sheeting like you suggested to put behind it maybe 3 feet high. that way nobody will see the sheeting.
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Jun 21, 2009 01:07
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What would be the best way to connect a magnetic door sensor to a computer? These are the ones used for security systems. I don't even know what sort of interface they come with, let alone how to connect it to a PC (most likely a Linux server) via serial or USB or something. This is for a remotely-controllable robotic lock project in its infancy.
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Jun 21, 2009 04:54
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kirvett posted:What would be the best way to connect a magnetic door sensor to a computer? Something like that might be X10-related. You might have better luck asking in SH/SC.
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Jun 21, 2009 05:44
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I plan to replace my ancient, unreliable dishwasher with another used but better one my aunt gave me. My plan for doing this:
Does this sound about right, or am I forgetting something? Since I've never installed a dishwasher before I'd appreciate any advice.
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Jun 22, 2009 20:31
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an A/C unit in my house is making odd noises and spitting water out of the back fins. any ideas what could cause this?
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Jun 22, 2009 20:49
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lemonlime posted:Does this sound about right, or am I forgetting something? Since I've never installed a dishwasher before I'd appreciate any advice. That should do it, assuming the power, water, and drain connectors on the new dishwasher are all the same as the old one. There's a chance you'll need to run out and pick up an adapter if something doesn't match. If your hot water shutoff valve is difficult to close or leaks when off, this is also a good time to shut off the main water supply and replace it.
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Jun 22, 2009 21:00
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lemonlime posted:I plan to replace my ancient, unreliable dishwasher with another used but better one my aunt gave me. My plan for doing this: Are you sure your DW is unpluggable from power? Most dishwashers are hard-wired to power at the unit itself. Even if yours has a standard power cord to the wall, you need to ensure the other unit is similar, otherwise you will run a power cable/romex from the wall to the dishwasher and terminate your power at the unit itself.
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Jun 22, 2009 21:06
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gross posted:That should do it, assuming the power, water, and drain connectors on the new dishwasher are all the same as the old one. There's a chance you'll need to run out and pick up an adapter if something doesn't match. If your hot water shutoff valve is difficult to close or leaks when off, this is also a good time to shut off the main water supply and replace it. Cool, I hadn't realized I might need adapters and I wouldn't have thought of them on my own. I'm not starting until this evening and the connections aren't in front of me right now, but if it turns out that they're different it's good to know that I'll have options besides going  . I'll keep an eye on the valve when I'm messing with it.Ahz posted:Are you sure your DW is unpluggable from power? Most dishwashers are hard-wired to power at the unit itself. Even if yours has a standard power cord to the wall, you need to ensure the other unit is similar, otherwise you will run a power cable/romex from the wall to the dishwasher and terminate your power at the unit itself. No worries, I'd read enough about installing dishwashers to know to look for the power cord. I gave the innards a thorough look before deciding to keep the thing for myself instead of letting someone else deal with it and both the dishwashers are fed by a standard power cord. From my previous home improvement experiences, I know that what'll really trip me up are the minor little details that any moron would know, like the possible need for adapters. I'm happy there are several people who know more about how things work than, "If you plug it in, it lights up and makes good noises!" I will report back with news of my success or failure. Edit: I hooked it up and it works, yay! The hot water hose was too short, making me go to the hardware store to buy an extension and a male adapter. Then it turned out that the adapter was wrong on one side, so I went back looking for the right one, which they didn't have. So I bought an adapter which fit the too-large end while also fitting the hot water hose on the other. Now I have two adapters screwed together joining the dishwasher's hose to the extension hose. Of course I forgot to make sure I had Teflon tape for the threads and the connection leaks slightly. I'll turn the water valve off when I go to bed and go get some tape tomorrow, but for tonight I'm calling this a conditional success. lemonlime fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Jun 23, 2009 |
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Jun 22, 2009 21:42
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Just wondering if anyone could tell me what the purpose of these pieces are. My roomate's mom saw them at a thrift store apparently and thought they looked cool. Indeed they do, but we've been debating their purpose. Weird headboards? Heavy duty easel? other? Those little knobby things on it all turn about a half turn. 
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Jun 23, 2009 07:13
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My refrigerator just went to poo poo...or so I thought. A few days ago I noticed that the fridge was not cooling down things...both in the freezer and the fridge. It's a side by side fridge that I'd say is around 15 years old or so, so its definitely getting up there in age. Anyways I then noticed that on the back of the freezer wall (This is inside the freezer looking at the back wall insdie the freezer) there is a ton of frost built up on it. The evaporator in side by side fridge units is behind this thin metal/tin wall so I had to pull it out to find that its completely blocked up in ice. Unfortunately for me I had to basically wedge this thin metal wall out even though I unscrewed it because it was frozen in there. Long story short I suspect that its simply the Auto Defrost mechanism is broken. So I actually did defrost it manually earlier tonight and let it completely melt. Problem/question is two fold. I started it back up and obviously the heat inside there coupled with any sort of remaining humidity is immediately creating condensation/new snow/ice on the evaporator. Secondly the little wall I had to remove is completely hosed up/bent and I don't think I"ll be able to reinstall it. I looked everywhere online and it seems like that back wall really isn't needed but I'm worried that this somehow disrupts how cold air will be distributed back into the fridge. Also at this point, if I'm going to have to manually defrost every so often would it not be worth my time and money just to invest in a new fridge? Home Depot has some good deals on ones that are around 500 dollars.
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Jun 23, 2009 09:41
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