|
buzzsaw.gif posted:...this is my car. Respect. Treat it right: change your oil, condition your leather, and keep your suspension fresh.
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 04:29
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 20:38 |
|
|
Any of you guys live in MA? I'm looking for someone that would be willing to check out a replacement E36 for me. I'd be more than happy to take ya out to dinner or buy you a few beers or something less homoerotic if I end up picking it up  .PM me or catch me on AIM (in profile) if you can.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 06:31
|
|
|
Joined the club yesterday: It drives like a dream and it's incredibly fun, even it if is my first manual. (stalled out like 5 times on the way home  )But even on the second day of driving I've gotten much better at knowing the clutch to gas ratio and using neutral to it's advantage. One minor problem I've had with it is that the shifter knob got loose. The actual shifter has this U shaped wedge. (*1) But inside the knob slot there isn't a fitting for that wedge(*2), only 3 triangularly positioned screws.(*3) [*1]  [*2] [*3] Now, I'm thinking I can find something close-to or the exact size of the wedge and crazy-glue it into the back of the knob's slot so that it'll take care of all the horizontal movement and the three screws only take care of vertical movement, preventing any more stripping off the actual shifter rod. Does that sound like a good idea, or will I be loving it up with the super glue. DevCore fucked around with this message at 08:33 on Jun 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 07:44
|
|
|
DevCore posted:..three screws only take care of vertical movement... Do not superglue the knob. There are better ways. A few I have used successfully in the past: 1) OEM shifters are just $50 or so. Get a new ZHP knob and call it a day. 2) Use electrical tape to widen the shifter shaft. Taper as you go up. 3) Mark the shifter shaft and drill small pockets for the knob set screws. It will no longer rotate or pull off.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 07:59
|
|
|
Is there a website where a lot 2002s go up for sale? I've been mulling over buying a second car and I really want a 2002 but I'm having a hard time finding many. Also, what kind of condition could I expect for $3000(total budget $4000 but I figure I'll need to spend $1000 fixing various things).
|
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 08:53
|
|
|
Where are you finding $3000 2002 M3's? Edit: Well I guess you didn't specifically say an M3, but it did follow the M3 post and you didn't give a model. rockcity fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Jun 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 13:38
|
|
|
rockcity posted:Where are you finding $3000 2002 M3's? Except for the fact that the BMW 2002 is an actual model.  
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 14:00
|
|
|
rockcity posted:Where are you finding $3000 2002 M3's? This post is awesome. Anyway, I always see 2002s for sale in the CCA but I don't know if they'd have any cheap enough. It's worth checking though. I'll look around and edit my post if I find anything. edit: there's a 1972 Bavaria 5-speed for $3500, that would be a hoot Actually the cheapest 2002 they have is this one and its $5000 and has some rust. drat prices for these have gone up since I last looked. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 14:11 on Jun 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 14:02
|
|
|
multiprotocol posted:Except for the fact that the BMW 2002 is an actual model. Ahh yes, excuse my brain lapse there. That's always thrown me off, mostly because I'll see the year and then 2002. Guess I should have gotten that cup of coffee before work after all. Carry on.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 14:05
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Do not superglue the knob. There are better ways. A few I have used successfully in the past: Just do this. It's a universal fact that universal shifters are garbage, no matter what brand or model car you have.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 14:42
|
|
|
ab0z posted:Just do this. It's a universal fact that universal shifters are garbage, no matter what brand or model car you have. Momo never treated me wrong. Damned expensive though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 17:13
|
|
|
DevCore posted:Joined the club yesterday: That looks drat nice.  Are silver M3's rare during the E36 era? I ONLY see black ones and some yellow ones but I've never seen silver ones, ever.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 17:21
|
|
|
Bahamutsrage posted:That looks drat nice. I'm looking for an M3 right now, and there are actually quite a lot of them in silver. Silver and black look to be about the most common on craigslist right now, at least in my area.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 17:25
|
|
|
buzzsaw.gif posted:
I think there is a sweet spot with the 2006 330's, they only made them for a year and they have the upgraded 255HP engine and they are literally $8-$10k cheaper than a 2007 335. I know there are some teething probs with a first year model but if yer willing to replace funky electronic parts, etc...here and there with newer versions you will have a great car for years. Good deal!
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 17:31
|
|
|
OrangeFurious posted:Momo never treated me wrong. Damned expensive though. Unless it's threaded for your specific application, it's a bad idea. I'm talking about the type that he has, where it kinda fits and you have these stupid little screws that hopefully hold it on there.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 17:37
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Do not superglue the knob. There are better ways. A few I have used successfully in the past: The shifter that came on your car is an aftermarket one and it prob doesn't fit right anymore. It might be easier to go buy a newer lower profile one, either a used one if on a budget or a new one. I have the "weighted" lower profile ZHP one on my E46 and it's great. Even if you got a regular OEM styled one it would be a vast improvement and would stay on there. Many folks have extra OEM shifters lying around, I know I have two.....a black leather one and the original wood grain one, others will too - you just need to scour places like Bimmerfest, Bimmerforums etc. Keyser_Soze fucked around with this message at 17:46 on Jun 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 17:38
|
|
|
KeyserSoze9999 posted:The shifter that came on your car is an aftermarket one and it prob doesn't fit right anymore. Ill just 2nd that the ZHP shift knob is great. It blows the stock shift knob for an E30 (and from the sound of it, other models too) out of the water.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 17:50
|
|
|
^^^ I've heard good things about the ZHP knob also. People love it.zamin posted:I'm looking for an M3 right now, and there are actually quite a lot of them in silver. Silver and black look to be about the most common on craigslist right now, at least in my area. Yeah, that's what I've seen as well. Estimated order of how comon the colors are from what I've seen during my M3 search (mostly looking at sedans though): 1) Cosmos Black 2) Titanium or Arctic Silver (I don't know the difference) 2) Alpine White 3) Hellrot Red 4) Boston Green 5) Estoril Blue 6) Techno Violet 7) Dakar Yellow 8) Byzanz I've only seen Avus Blue and Daytona Violet on 1995 coupes for some reason. I've seen one Fern Green but I don't remember much about it. Avus Blue is my favorite color followed by Techno Violet and Byzanz and Estoril Blue, then Hellrot Red, then White, Silver, Black, then Boston Green, then Dakar yellow. I liked the Fern Green too, but I only saw it once. This is all online BTW, so I have no idea how most of them look in person. I think I'm going to end up getting a Black M3 I'm looking at now because everthing is just what I want except the color. BossTweed fucked around with this message at 18:08 on Jun 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 18:00
|
|
|
BossTweed posted:
If I could find an E36 Avus Blue M3 coupe with black leather and a stick for under $9k, I'd be a happy man. I don't think I've seen one on Craigslist, yet that either A) wasn't an automatic or B) wasn't in awful condition. This is even using Craigshelper, and putting the slider at 1,000 miles.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 18:05
|
|
|
My daily search routine: 1) Check craigslist for the whole country using RSS feeds created using crazedlist.org 2) m3forum.net for sale section 3) bimmerforums.com for sale section 4) cars.com check for cars added in the past week 5) autotrader.com check for cars added in the past week 6) bimmerfest.com for sale section 7) bmwcca.org classifieds I've seen some Avus cars go through bimmerforums.com but they are always '95's for some reason, so I skip them since they aren't sedans. I am sorta addicted to checking all these car listings, so hopefully I can quit once I finally get my car. BossTweed fucked around with this message at 18:18 on Jun 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 18:14
|
|
|
You're not going to find an Avus Blue M3 Sedan, unless you get one imported from South Africa or Europe. The M3 3.0 was only available as a coupe, except for the CB91 and CB92 versions, which were only sold in Europe. Avus Blue was available on all M3 3.0s. The M3 3.2 was available in a sedan in the States, but it was not available in Avus Blue. The only M3 3.2 available in Avus Blue was the South African version. The reason all the Avus Blue M3s you see are '95s is because the US Spec M3 3.0 was only made between 3/94 and 12/95. Sorry to burst your bubble 
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 18:32
|
|
|
zamin posted:Sorry to burst your bubble You didn't burst my bubble, I was pretty sure it was something like that. I've resigned myself to not worrying about the exterior color because I am having enough trouble finding what I want as it is, and the only color I really don't want is Dakar Yellow. I'm more picky about +sedan +black interior (although I like mulberry and magma for some reason) +manual transmission.
|
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 19:16
|
|
|
It's getting hot out (95+) so I've been using my A/C. It may be my imagination, but it doesn't seem to blow as cold as it used to. I'm gonna put some gauges on it pretty soon, but I noticed this on one of the compressor fittings: I can't tell if it's condensate or freon, but it looks clear when I dip paper in it. Is it possible for water to condensate there? Are the fittings removable from the compressor? They look like they are. My compressor doesnt look anything like the pictures from realoem though, unless Im retarded:  I have a '97 E36 328i 5-speed. CornHolio fucked around with this message at 23:48 on Jun 23, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 23, 2009 23:42
|
|
|
Quoting myself incase I can catch any e30/e36 users who have done a clutch job. I've got 6 jack stands now, so weather permitting I'm going to get my car up on stands and try to at least get the exhaust off.Crustashio posted:Well, it looks like the clutch on my e30 325iX is on the way out. Started feeling wierd yesterday, and this morning I tried hammering 5th gear at highway speed while going uphill and the revs climbed like crazy. I find it odd that the clutch feel changed that fast, but I can't really argue with a slipping clutch since it appears to be the original according to the service records.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 00:56
|
|
|
How much would you guys pay for the following 1999 E36 M3 coupe (northeast US): Good 78,000 miles Single adult owner No accidents besides a respray and blend on a door panel that got bumped lightly (looks perfect) Clutch and flywheel were recently replaced Brakes and tires are good Excellent interior and exterior condition, mechanically sound Garaged during winter, so no Sockington rust considering it is a NE car No luxury package 100% stock, no aftermarket parts at all Bad Entire cooling system due for replacement All suspension parts and bushings due for replacement No cold weather package Meh I do not believe it had reinforced RTABs, but there is also no damage to the rear shock towers Owner did not seem like an enthusiast - he sounded like he just took the car to a mechanic whenever something had to be done Suspension and bushing replacements should end up being around $1,500 total + my own time, cooling system should be $500 total + my own time. Asking price is $14,500. I was thinking about offering $12,500, but I don't want to insult the seller, since the car seems to be in even better shape than my last M3 that my insurance company values at $14,500. I also don't really want someone else to buy this car out from under my nose... Help!
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 01:26
|
|
|
Pissingintowind posted:Help! What color is the interior and exterior? Do you care about the colors? Are you only looking at 1999 models or are you okay with earlier years? Are you in a hurry to buy? Are you looking all across the country or just locally? If local, where do you live and how fast do M3's tend to sell there? All these things effect how picky I would be on the price. I would probably start at $12,000 or maybe lower. You can play dumb a little if you want and use KBB and Edmunds as bargaining tools just to try to bring them down to earth a little. KBB and Edmunds are way below what some people are asking for these cars, although sometimes you will see sellers following them if they don't know the market. If I wanted a coupe and had $14,500 I would look at this one: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1214108 or Here is one at $12,500 similar to what you are looking at: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1231140 or Not much detail but a good price: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1241724 Another Estoril: http://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/1215707391.html Silver: http://newyork.craigslist.org/lgi/cto/1234012786.html Another Estoril (I guess they are more common as coupes than sedans): http://worcester.craigslist.org/cto/1215707391.html White with no sunroof: http://raleigh.craigslist.org/cto/1219495138.html One owner Dakar (I checked carfax): http://tampa.craigslist.org/hil/ctd/1233753947.html Obviously I don't know all the detail about these, but if you have enough time, you can find one that is as good as the one you are looking at. Like I said a couple posts ago, I check a bunch of sites every day or two and browse the whole country, if you don't have the patience for that or need to find something fairly local, you might have to pay a little more. BossTweed fucked around with this message at 05:34 on Jun 24, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 04:58
|
|
|
BossTweed posted:Thanks for the reply. I'm looking at 1999 models. My last M3 died because some rear end in a top hat ran a red light and hit me. I refuse to compromise on side airbags due to this, and the 1999s are the only year that has them. The car I was looking at is Hellrot/Magma. I'm open to exterior colors except for Fern/Boston green. I'd rather not get a Mulberry/Dove interior simply because they always end up looking really dirty, but if it's already in good shape, I trust myself to be able to keep it in shape. I'm trying to buy as soon as I can, and as close to NJ as I can, but I am not in a hurry. As for your suggestions: 1. I refuse to buy anything with a luxury package. Also, I would prefer a sunroof, and the interior is quite worn for something with only 44k miles. 2. Looks just like my old one  . Seriously, looks great, if it only was a 1999. And not 3,000 miles away .3. I try to buy from more communicative sellers. 4. Looks only slightly less clean than the one I was looking at, I will use it as a bargaining point. 5. Krauted. Not touching this. I'd rather pay more for something stock and not abused. 6. Same link as 4 .7. No info, too far. Prefer having a sunroof. 8. CarFax say anything about a rear end collision? Bumper seems uneven in the back. Bad taste in modifications, too. Thanks for the links though, number 4 will come in especially handy. An interesting curveball is that I will have access to my old wrecked parts car, and all the parts that I already bought for it. For instance, I have a cooling system, clutch, flywheel, short shifter, swaybars, brakes, and a bunch of other poo poo just sitting in my garage waiting. I don't mind having to replace this stuff. Pissingintowind fucked around with this message at 05:57 on Jun 24, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 05:53
|
|
|
Whoops, I think that duplicated link should have been to this one (carfax says 3 owners, no accidents) http://raleigh.craigslist.org/ctd/1234780468.html The Dakar's carfax was clean, no accidents or anything. I checked the Worscter Estoril's carfax also and it came up clean, no accidents, 2 owners (just noticed the VIN it in the pictures). I agree some of them don't have a lot of info, I just wanted to show you what prices I have been seeing. I think somewhere around $13,000 is pretty reasonable for the one you are looking at, I really don't think I would go too much above that though.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 06:39
|
|
|
I'm looking into an E30 318is as a daily driver for the next year. There are a few examples in fairly good condition around, but they're all priced way more than they're worth. I would happily pay $3-4K for a body with little rust and not much wrong mechanically, but all the ads are for either rust buckets or semi-clean ones for upwards of $6K. Is there a reason this model is so expensive? Or is $6000 the going rate for 18-year old BMWs in good condition?
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 08:35
|
|
|
bidikyoopi posted:Or is $6000 the going rate for 18-year old BMWs in good condition? For a $6k E30, I'd expect a car in near-showroom condition. Fresh paint, all components working, good maintenance history, fresh suspension, etc. For $1500, I'd expect a car that I'd be putting ~$4500 into to make perfect.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 08:48
|
|
|
bidikyoopi posted:I'm looking into an E30 318is as a daily driver for the next year. There are a few examples in fairly good condition around, but they're all priced way more than they're worth. I would happily pay $3-4K for a body with little rust and not much wrong mechanically, but all the ads are for either rust buckets or semi-clean ones for upwards of $6K. Is there a reason this model is so expensive? Or is $6000 the going rate for 18-year old BMWs in good condition? $6000 for a 318iS? It better be pristine with very low mileage. They are becoming more a collector's car, but aren't there yet. I bought a beautiful red 318iS with 189,000 miles and documentation going back to day 1. The car was serviced almost exclusively at the same BMW dealer and had EVERY trouble spot addressed (profile gasket, fuel pump, steering rack, etc.) and has never been hit. It also has zero rust and was treated to a complete professional respray halfway through it's life. Suspension components were in great shape and the shocks had been replaced with Bilstiens. The two previous owners were BMWCCA members as well. Price I paid? $3900 last year. So yea, $6000 is a little steep.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 13:36
|
|
|
BossTweed posted:1) Check craigslist for the whole country using RSS feeds created using crazedlist.org This right here was a fantastic idea. Thanks.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 17:25
|
|
|
What's the general mileage life like on M3's. I'm sure it varies by year and model, but overall. Next year my lease is up on my car and I'm considering looking at maybe a 99-01 M3 for my DD. If I went with a newer one, I'd probably be keeping it longer to make the payments smaller, but if I went with a 99 with slightly higher miles, those seem to be readily available for pretty good prices and in pretty good shape for a 10 year old car. Plus it would give me room to make some of my own upgrades if I see fit. I was looking to keep it under 18k, maybe closer to 13k for the 99. This is really early in the planning stages so right now I'm trying to get a broad list of cars I'd like to test drive when it gets closer to that time, but I don't want to get my hopes up on anything that really wouldn't work for me as a DD.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 18:18
|
|
|
Finally got around to fixing the driver's seat on my 318iS. The main problem was the backrest support bracket had broken allowing the backrest to flop around on one side. It wasn't a problem as long as I didn't adjust the backrest or use the flip-forward feature to let backseat passengers in and out. It was getting looser and looser so I finally took the seat out and apart to have it welded. While it was apart, I noticed the side bolster had separated from the seat frame at the front (VERY common with the sport seats in the 80s BMWs), so I had that welded as well. $10 for the welder and another hour to put it all back together and I have a fully functional driver's seat. I also found out why my "gong" doesn't work... it had been disconnected. I love easy fixes like that.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 22:12
|
|
|
rockcity posted:What's the general mileage life like on M3's. I'm sure it varies by year and model, but overall. If your entire budget is $18k do not get the 01, most of those will be clapped out pieces of poo poo. However, a $13k 99 M3 is one of the better used BMWs you'll be able to buy. It should be in almost new condition, 80kish miles, and regularly cared after. With the left over $5000 you can make the E36 faster and more fun than the E46, that is, if you're mechanically inclined/willing to learn.
|
|
#
?
Jun 24, 2009 22:30
|
|
|
Doctor Grape Ape posted:If your entire budget is $18k do not get the 01, most of those will be clapped out pieces of poo poo. However, a $13k 99 M3 is one of the better used BMWs you'll be able to buy. It should be in almost new condition, 80kish miles, and regularly cared after. With the left over $5000 you can make the E36 faster and more fun than the E46, that is, if you're mechanically inclined/willing to learn. Yeah, I figured that would be the better route to go. I figure with 13k I could get a reliable one that could easily last me through it's life and be able to pay it off sooner and use some leftover money I'd set aside for some fun parts. It's definitely one option to look into when it comes car time.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2009 02:09
|
|
|
rockcity posted:...some fun parts... E36s have more subtle styling than the E46s and have a better ride on stock suspension. In a stock vs. stock situation, however, the E46 will drop the E36 convincingly in every area. However, a $13k E36 M3 with $4k in suspension and tires will hand a stock E46 M3 its rear end in anything but a drag race. Then again, consider a ZHP (E46 330i options package). It can be nearly as fast as an E36 M3 while maintaining 30mpg highway and carrying four adults. Even better, parts for it don't carry the M premium, and if you are dead set on track time, you can purchase a LSD from Bimmerforums for $600 any day of the week. Edit: scratch that, make it like loving $5k for LSD and installation then. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jun 25, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2009 04:51
|
|
|
E36 diffs cannot be dropped into E46's. As a personal question, on my E30 318iS, I'm getting a lot of inside wear on my driver's side rear tire. The suspension is non-adjustable so I'm not sure how it could be mis-aligned, but could a tired suspension lead to accelerated and uneven wear? Or maybe trailing arm bushings?
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2009 04:54
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:E36 diffs cannot be dropped into E46's. Yes and yes. Check all the bushings in the suspension carrier. It's probably the rear trailing arm bushings, which are the big ones right in front of the wheels.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2009 11:03
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 18, 2024 20:38 |
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Then again, consider a ZHP (E46 330i options package). It can be nearly as fast as an E36 M3 while maintaining 30mpg highway and carrying four adults. Even better, parts for it don't carry the M premium, and if you are dead set on track time, you can purchase a LSD from Bimmerforums for $600 any day of the week. Hmmm that's definitely an option, I hadn't thought of that. Like I said, I'm making a big list of cars to narrow things down on before I even start driving, so I'm always open to options. As it stands I'm coming off a Saturn Ion 3 anyway, so anything is an improvement to me.
|
|
#
?
Jun 25, 2009 12:06
|
|