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Brock Landers posted:Yes and yes. Check all the bushings in the suspension carrier. It's probably the rear trailing arm bushings, which are the big ones right in front of the wheels. Ah, actually the big ones in front of the wheels are the subframe bushings. The trailing arm bushings attatch at four points to connect the trailing arms to the subframe like the diagram I've carefully rendered in CAD below. code:
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Jun 25, 2009 12:38
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Pimpsolo posted:Ah, actually the big ones in front of the wheels are the subframe bushings. The trailing arm bushings attatch at four points to connect the trailing arms to the subframe like the diagram I've carefully rendered in CAD below. Whoops. Yes you're right. 
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Jun 25, 2009 13:14
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CornHolio posted:It's getting hot out (95+) so I've been using my A/C. It may be my imagination, but it doesn't seem to blow as cold as it used to. I'm gonna put some gauges on it pretty soon, but I noticed this on one of the compressor fittings: The compressor hoses can be removed, so you can replace the o-rings.
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Jun 25, 2009 21:00
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Mad Dragon posted:Refrigerant will evaporate when it leaks out, but the oil will stay behind. Unless you have UV dye in the system, the oil is going to be clear. I'm fairly certain it's water, yesterday the entire fitting was soaked when I checked it. It must have already evaporated when I checked it the first time, except for that one area, which is why I was worried.
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Jun 25, 2009 21:02
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PAG oil may be clear, but it doesn't stay that way once it starts leaking. Usually an AC leak will leave behind a dark film due to the dirt that collects on exposed oil.
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Jun 26, 2009 00:51
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Does anyone have any idea where this fluid could have come from? Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. That's the passenger side rear tire, for reference. I rubbed a bit off with my finger and it was slightly reddish in color. I have no idea where it came from as I can't really think of anything near there that would have fluid. The exit of the transmission was also coated in oil, I'm guessing the rear transmission seal is gone (or possibly something in the transfer case). It would probably explain why the transmission was being a little noisy.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. Same with the front passenger driveshaft.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image. I also found 2 split CV boots which must have gone in the past 5-6 months, I just had one replaced in january. All I wanted to do is change the clutch and I got greeted with a bunch of lovely surprises when I finally got under the car.
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Jun 26, 2009 02:00
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Does anyone know why the new US 335d has 17 fewer HP than the European 335d? It's the same exact engine, presumably.
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Jun 26, 2009 02:33
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Nostrum posted:Does anyone know why the new US 335d has 17 fewer HP than the European 335d? It's the same exact engine, presumably. I'm not exactly sure, but my guess would be emission reasons. Also, I don't believe the Euro diesels use the SCR system we need to pass US standards.
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Jun 26, 2009 03:09
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There are quite a few differences between the ECE and US market diesels. peterjmatt is right with the SCR, it creates a restriction in the exhaust which will reduce power. The US is more strict on NOx emissions, thus requiring the SCR system and more conservative tune.
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Jun 26, 2009 13:16
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I must admit that I just realized what the title of this thread means. 
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Jun 26, 2009 17:58
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My 2004 MINI cooper is starting to throw up a check engine light after it rains. Not every time, but I'd say at least 75% when I drive through rain, or it just rains when it's in the driveway. The light will come on for a few days, then go away after its been dry for a bit. Is this common on BMW's? I haven't found anything on MINI forums.
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Jun 26, 2009 21:11
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G5ANDY posted:My 2004 MINI cooper is starting to throw up a check engine light after it rains. Not every time, but I'd say at least 75% when I drive through rain, or it just rains when it's in the driveway. The light will come on for a few days, then go away after its been dry for a bit. Is this common on BMW's? I haven't found anything on MINI forums. Only way to know what it is would be to have it scanned. The computer should store the code, so you can get it scanned anytime, even when the light is off.
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Jun 26, 2009 22:08
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TommyRotten posted:Ok, you guys have me sold. I'm totally smitten... Id like to hear/see more. From what ive heard/seen of it, the 135i is my favorite car and im insanely jealous. Is this the first bmw you've owned/driven? If not, how does it compare to others? Have you attempted people in the back? How comfortable were they? Did the dealer (im assuming you bought it new) seem like he would have come down? And anything else you'd like to add would be cool.
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Jun 26, 2009 22:40
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Crustashio posted:Does anyone have any idea where this fluid could have come from? The color of the oil in the picture looks like either regular engine oil, or manual transmission oil. If you have an automatic, that fluid should be red, not the color from the pictures. If your engine is leaking oil, it could easily spray back under the car and coat everything, making it very difficult to pinpoint the leak. You can pressure-wash the underside of the car, and then run it on a rack (or jack-stands) and see if you can find an active leak. From the amount of oil in the pictures, it should be dropping a puddle somewhere!
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Jun 26, 2009 23:20
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I just put a couple hundred miles on my dad's loaded '08 M3 6spd. God drat that is a fun car. M-Dynamic mode and it's chirping the tires in a 2-3 shift at 80. That car is such a hooligan. I didn't check to see if the tire chirp turned into a full-on spin if I'd switched the traction control fully off, but it may have. I also love the ease of switching the car from almost full-soft to almost everything full-on by pressing the M button on the steering wheel... the throttle changes, the car hunkers and it's on. I would get into a lot of trouble if I owned that car.
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Jun 27, 2009 00:24
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meatpimp posted:I just put a couple hundred miles on my dad's loaded '08 M3 6spd. God drat that is a fun car. M-Dynamic mode and it's chirping the tires in a 2-3 shift at 80. That car is such a hooligan. I didn't check to see if the tire chirp turned into a full-on spin if I'd switched the traction control fully off, but it may have. You lucky gently caress. I only rode in one but holy poo poo the G forces that push you into the seat feels great. It also sounds like a demon when you gun it. It makes my Z4 look like a huge vagina 
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Jun 27, 2009 01:07
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The Locator posted:The color of the oil in the picture looks like either regular engine oil, or manual transmission oil. If you have an automatic, that fluid should be red, not the color from the pictures. The thing is, there is pretty much no oil leaking from the engine, aside from a bit that possibly leaked out of the filter when I changed it 2 months ago. The oil near the transmission and transfer case is almost definetely due to broken seals, after removing the exhaust heatshields the transfer case exit had a nice dark arc of oil stain on the clean parts of the transmission tunnel. My first picture baffles me though. The oil appears to be coming from up inside near the rear crossmember (top left blue cross in attached picture). Mabye I it just came from driving through an oil puddle, but have never been any in my driveway aside from when I spilled a little bit of fresh stuff.
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Jun 27, 2009 01:41
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There's really nothing up there that would leak any type of oil. A bad seal on the gas tank port could cause that type of leak, but I'd imagine you can recognize the difference between fuel and oil.
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Jun 27, 2009 01:57
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Hey guys I've got a question I recently purchased a e85 BMW Z4 roadster and it unfortunately didn't come with HID headlights. I guess the previous owner didn't want them installed or something (a $700 option) So I called my local BMW dealership and they said that to get Xenon headlamps working on a Z4 would cost around ~$5,000.  He said ~$3,000 or so for the headlights, bulbs, wiring, ballasts, etc. Also about $2,000 for labor. gently caress me, I didn't know HID lighting was so expensive. So being curious that I am I started dicking around online looking on eBay for some Z4 headlights for sale but I found none I did however, find some HID kits. Now I know HID kits are notorious for completely killing the retina of oncoming drivers because they're usually dropped in a reflector housing causing and ungodly amount of glare and they're synonymous with RICERZ and HIDZZZ. Well the question I've got for you BMW nuts is that would it be possible to install an HID kit on a Z4? They have halogen projectors but I don't know exactly how well this would work. I mean I don't know exactly how reliable HID kits are at all and they vary in prices which causes me to be confused. For example, the "top of the line" usually is the most expensive, let's say. There's a vendor on eBay called 'MTEC' and they sell kits "made in Japan" and the kit itself costs $300. Then on Amazon I find a vender who goes by 'Xentec' and sells HID kits for about $80 a pop (as a discount). What's the loving difference? MTEC says they're error free and have warranty. What's a decent reliable kit vendor?  I've very skeptical about these kits because my previous car had OEM HIDs and I really miss them enough to look at these kits (instead of dropping $6k on OEM poo poo) Sorry for the pile of text bricks
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Jun 27, 2009 05:09
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Bahamutsrage posted:HID stuff. There's a lot more to the factory headlights than the HID bulb and ballast. The entire headlight assembly is different, including motorized self-leveling main projectors. You can retrofit the factory lights, but it's be easier to find one in a junkyard so that you can get ALL the associated stuff. You can retrofit an aftermarket HID system, including plug-and-play ballast and bulb. With your existing projector setup, you'd probably see reasonable gains in output, you'd just have to be careful when you re-aim the headlights to make sure you don't have any aberrant glare that hits other drivers. Projectors are usually better for retrofitting, though. If you do some digging, you can find HID kits for under $50 delivered. Could be a good experiment to see if it's worth it for your use.
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Jun 27, 2009 13:29
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I don't think even grabbing junkyard headlights would be enough for the retrofit. There's also a couple of travel sensors on the front and rear suspension to control the auto height adjustment. Plus, the body wiring harness will be different (and most likely lack the plugs for the travel sensors)so it's far from a plug and play proposition. Then there's the light control module; I'm not sure if it can be programmed for xenons or if a whole new unit would need to be installed. So yeah, I'd say it's not a viable option. 5K might even be a deal. I got my cheap-o HID kit from a site called DDMtuning.com. They were about 80 bucks for a 55w set, and I'm pretty happy with the light output. I haven't seen any after-market xenons in the Z4 projectors, so the only way you're going to know for sure is to try it out. It's cheap enough to be worth the experiment.
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Jun 28, 2009 17:59
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peterjmatt posted:I got my cheap-o HID kit from a site called DDMtuning.com. They were about 80 bucks for a 55w set, and I'm pretty happy with the light output. I haven't seen any after-market xenons in the Z4 projectors, so the only way you're going to know for sure is to try it out. It's cheap enough to be worth the experiment. Pretty much this. Just buy a pair of lights around 4500-5000K if you want an OEM look.
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Jun 28, 2009 19:03
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Definitely check out the bimmerfest, bimmerforums posts for retro HID information. You may be better off just spending $140 on some of the new aftermarket Angel Eyes by EAS or Umnitza if all you are doing is looking to add some bling to the headlights. I have factory installed Xenon's in my 330 and like the look and think they work great but don't forget these things costs over $1k to replace if they fail.
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Jun 28, 2009 20:28
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I'm sure most car buyers already hate people from Texas and California but if not here's a good reason to:     Guy wants $4500 for it. 114k miles and immaculate inside and out. It's a 1 owner car with every single receipt for it going back to its third oil change. New rad, water pump, timing belt, entire a/c system (dude said it was blowing a little warm so he had at it), clutch, no rust ANYWHERE. The only bad is an aftermarket stereo which has its usual frightening wiring every single loving slob seems to be doing these days. All electrical works though including the window switches etc. I can't find a reason to offer less then 4500 even though i know that's a little on the high end for these cars. Someone give me a reason not to buy this?
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Jun 29, 2009 02:32
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Scrubed posted:I can't find a reason to offer less then 4500 even though i know that's a little on the high end for these cars. Someone give me a reason not to buy this? No one here is going to tell you not to buy it, I won't, I wish I could buy it. Ugh I really do hate the Southwest.
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Jun 29, 2009 04:21
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It looks good, and while 4500 is steep for a plain old 325i it may be worth it. However, just because it's been well maintained don't expect it to be perfect. Leave yourself a budget for repairs. If you really, really want an e30, that might be the one. However, if you're just looking for a car in the 5k range there are plenty of options at that price, including decent e36s. As an owner of a plain-jane 325i, I'm not sure I'd spend that much money for one. Unless you're looking for a very clean, blank slate that is.
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Jun 29, 2009 04:37
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Pretty much this. Just buy a pair of lights around 4500-5000K if you want an OEM look. On this line, one of the bulbs on my 2000 328 went out, how do I figure out which bulb I need? If I search for them online, I tend to find these which don't seem like what I need: http://tinyurl.com/nc5edj If I go to a autozone, they have a bunch of options but don't say whether they're xenon or not: [url] http://tiny.cc/IQQc6[/url] I went to a dealership and they tried to sell me a bulb that looked nothing like the bulb that was dead. What bulb do I need?
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Jun 29, 2009 10:09
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^^^ well does your BMW have halogen or HID headlights? If it's regular halogen you need an H7 bulb: If you have Xenon bulbs you'll need a D2S HID bulb:  If you have HID headlamps I suggest replacing both bulbs at the same time because Xenon bulbs colorshift after a certain amount of time/usage which can look funny (if you care) when one bulb is pink and the other is white.
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Jun 29, 2009 17:01
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Bahamutsrage posted:^^^ well does your BMW have halogen or HID headlights? If it's regular halogen you need an H7 bulb: It's the xenon, thanks.
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Jun 29, 2009 17:51
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If I'm spending close to five grand on an E30 it better be pristine and have an M50 swap and some suspension goodies on it
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Jun 29, 2009 18:04
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Anyone have any suggestions for getting the collar loose on my driveshaft so I can collapse it and remove it? It seems to be rusted pretty loving badly and going at it as hard as I can with a pair of 12" channel locks doesn't seem to budge it. I'm going to try some PB blaster tomorrow, but I'm worried that I won't be able to get it off (and hence no clutch change). (It's the big silver nut at the end of the driveshaft) In the event that I can't loosen the fucker, would it be a wierd request to ask a bmw mechanic to remove the exhaust + heatshields (which I've already loosened nicely) and try to loosen the collar (then retighten to spec), then just put the exhaust back on so I can drive it home? I really, really don't want to pay 1000 for a clutch change, especially since I know I can do it for 600 or so (including tools) once I get the drat thing out.
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Jun 30, 2009 00:55
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You should try heating up to see if that will crack it. Probably will take a long time to heat though. Get a MAPP gas torch on it if you can.
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Jun 30, 2009 01:06
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I normally use a big pipe wrench on those with great success.
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Jun 30, 2009 01:10
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Brock Landers posted:You should try heating up to see if that will crack it. Probably will take a long time to heat though. Get a MAPP gas torch on it if you can. I can easily grab a propane torch for 30 bucks, but I don't know where I can easily get a MAPP torch. Either way I can try heat + PB blaster tomorrow to see if it does anything. There is apparently a BMW special tool (261 040 or 261 060) but I can't even find an place to buy it, or even figure out what it connects to. two_beer_bishes posted:I normally use a big pipe wrench on those with great success. I have a pipe wrench and it doesn't come close to providing nearly enough bite to even turn the drat thing, it just slides off. Unless there is some easier way to tighten the gear, but I can't get all that much grip on the knurled knob to tighten it. Channel locks give me much better grip (vice gripping the handles seems to be enough force to keep it from slipping on the nut) but I just can't seem to break the drat thing loose no matter how much force I put on it.
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Jun 30, 2009 01:29
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Crustashio posted:I can easily grab a propane torch for 30 bucks, but I don't know where I can easily get a MAPP torch. Either way I can try heat + PB blaster tomorrow to see if it does anything. MAPP gas can be found for about $10 a canister at Home Depot. It uses the same Burnzomatic torch heads that propane does. EDIT: After doing some reading, it seems that collar loosens CLOCKWISE. Is that the direction you are turning it? DOUBLE EDIT: Why are you even loosening that? You don't need to in order to get the drive shaft out. Follow these instructions here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Guibo/E36-Guibo.htm and here is the rest of the clutch article: http://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/E36-Clutch_Replace/E36-Clutch_Replace.htm I don't see them loosening that collar anywhere. They separate the drive shaft at the guibo and then disconnect the bolts going into the input of the diff and the output of the transmission. Brock Landers fucked around with this message at 01:57 on Jun 30, 2009 |
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Jun 30, 2009 01:47
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Brock Landers posted:DOUBLE EDIT: Why are you even loosening that? I was just going to say the same thing. On both my automatic 318ti and manual 325i I was able to just remove the bolts on both ends of the driveshaft (and the one support in the middle), and pull it out. Edit: Brock Landers: Looking back a page, I think he has a e30 325iX, and not an E36. It might be different, I don't know. Swap_File fucked around with this message at 02:11 on Jun 30, 2009 |
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Jun 30, 2009 02:05
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Swap_File posted:I was just going to say the same thing. On both my automatic 318ti and manual 325i I was able to just remove the bolts on both ends of the driveshaft (and the one support in the middle), and pull it out. 325iX is right. http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1271&mospid=47265&btnr=26_0040&hg=26&fg=10 That little centering ring (#2) prevents you from just unbolting the driveshaft and dropping it out. Both the factory repair manual and the bently state loosening the collar is required, and I don't see a way around it. The shaft won't budge at the tranny end - The guibo will rotate in place but the shaft won't drop out of center. And yeah, I was turning clockwise.
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Jun 30, 2009 02:28
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When it comes to seized up bastards, as a general rule of thumb I like to use Liquid Wrench or some similar variant and a giant breaker bar. If that's not working (it probably is) heating it up some will usually break the fucker free.
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Jun 30, 2009 04:56
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Turns out all I needed was a shitload of torque using an 18" pipe wrench. Took me awhile since I could only move the thing about 3° in the right direction without hitting the gas tank hose. It remains to be seen if the driveshaft will actually collapse, but finally broke the fucker free. edit: Of course the driveshaft refuses to collapse. I'm almost at the point of limping it to the BMW dealer and giving the gently caress up. Everything related to the driveshaft has been a huge bitch, and it isn't even supposed to be the hard part of the clutch change. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Jun 30, 2009 |
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Jun 30, 2009 13:53
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Brock Landers posted:MAPP gas can be found for about $10 a canister at Home Depot. It uses the same Burnzomatic torch heads that propane does. Not to nitpick, but mapp torches can use both mapp and propane. Propane torches cannot use mapp. Obviosly the propane only torch is cheaper.
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