|
Wouldn't you know it, I won one battle and lost another. I managed to collapse the driveshaft, except I the big nut was so far off that it went straight into the black collar with the other side of the joint. So now I have 2 driveshaft halves and to top it off the differential end appears to be rusted nice and tight, even with the nuts removed. At this point I'm debating if I want to go ahead with trying the clutch change myself, or just give in. I can handle the car being on jacks for awhile, but I'm tempted to just pay for it and chalk up a lesson learned with older rusty cars. That is, don't loving bother and pay someone who has better tools.
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 19:20
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:09 |
|
|
You have been liberally applying p'blaster to everything, right?
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 23:04
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:You have been liberally applying p'blaster to everything, right? Yeah. Soaking pretty much every bit of rust I see that I can remove. I'll try taking it out tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure the diff side of the driveshaft is stuck pretty hard. The hard part is that it's not in an area to hammer the studs.. For now I'm just taking a few days break and will soak it in PB blaster every night to see if it'll come loose later. If I can get the transfer case off I'll probably go ahead with the clutch change myself, otherwise I'm just gonna pack it in.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 23:33
|
|
|
I used electrical tape (with extra grip surface) on the loose shifter knob and it worked like a charm. Now it's actually fun to shift! Thanks for the tip.
|
|
#
?
Jun 30, 2009 23:50
|
|
|
DevCore posted:Now it's actually fun to shift! Thanks for the tip. Good to hear. In other news, I strapped up a new waterpump and thermostat to this bad boy:  Now it's looking like this:  Anyone have experience with a Porta-Power for straightening bent metal? I need to move the passenger-side frame horn about 20mm right and 10mm up before I get this puppy all bolted back together.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 00:02
|
|
|
Today's lesson in picture format:  DO NOT LET THIS HAPPEN. I'm still unsure how to even get that out. The only gripping surface is the splines, and I'm not about to put a pair of vise grips on those and pull. Probably end up reassembling the driveshaft when I'm done and limp it to the dealer to see if they can fix it/rebalance it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 00:19
|
|
|
Crustashio posted:Today's lesson Uh, educate me a bit -- I assume the wrong side of the splined shaft came out of the driveshaft? If I had to remove it, I would guess a stud welded/epoxied to the exposed side (the silvery exposed end) and a slide hammer would probably do it. Sterndotstern fucked around with this message at 00:39 on Jul 1, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 00:30
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Uh, educate me a bit -- I assume the wrong side of the splined shaft came out of the driveshaft? The splines aren't supposed to seperate - the driveshaft is meant to come out as an entire unit. The whole thing is balanced as an assembly, so putting it back in rotated a few splines will gently caress up the dynamic balance. That isn't my main problem though, it's getting that nut back out. It's something I don't really want to mess around with so I'll probably have a BMW tech try to figure out how to fix it. The driveshaft itself is perfectly fine, it just needs to be taken out and reassembled properly.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 00:42
|
|
|
Crustashio posted:Today's lesson in picture format: We did the EXACT SAME THING on my brother's E36 M3. Just screw the two parts back together just enough for it to catch then pull them apart, it should come apart fairly easily. It's much easier though to do that when the entire drive shaft is removed from the car...
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 01:24
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Good to hear. Wow, I'm looking at pretty much the exact same thing sitting in my garage. Coolant system is getting replaced tomorrow. How did you get the fan clutch removed? I lost my 32mm wrench and I'm looking for alternatives. I replaced my hood today, including all of the little BS details (friggin' washer fluid hoses). I also have a slightly kinked frame rail. I'm gonna see if I can bolt up my bumper the way it is considering the plates on the bumper shocks are adjustable. Let me know how that Porta-Power works out for you.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 01:49
|
|
|
Carbon Deity posted:How did you get the fan clutch removed? Fan clutch = $12 wrench from Performance Bicycle. It's a skinny combo headset wrench in sizes 30, 32, 34 and 36mm. As far as the Porta-Power goes, I'm going to try the bottle jack from my Tundra and some 2x4s first. If that doesn't do the thing, I'm planning to try to find one to rent this weekend. I'll update you with results. Did either of us start a project thread? Oh, FYI -- I'd recommend steering away from the Bimmerworld $300 kit if you want a quality waterpump. The OEM metal-impeller unit that I ordered for this thing has a MUCH higher quality impeller than the one I got with the BW kit.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 01:57
|
|
|
Carbon Deity posted:Wow, I'm looking at pretty much the exact same thing sitting in my garage. Coolant system is getting replaced tomorrow. How did you get the fan clutch removed? I lost my 32mm wrench and I'm looking for alternatives. I replaced my hood today, including all of the little BS details (friggin' washer fluid hoses). A standard 1-1/4" wrench works just fine, that's how I got mine off the first time. I ordered a new radiator, fan, hoses, etc. Sunday, so I'll probably try to replace everything this holiday weekend and get the car back on the road (or track, as it were).
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 02:28
|
|
|
Sterndotstern posted:Fan clutch = $12 wrench from Performance Bicycle. It's a skinny combo headset wrench in sizes 30, 32, 34 and 36mm. I bought the kit from Zygmut. It included an OEM radiator, hoses, belts, metal impellar pump, aluminum thermostat housing, and thermostat, $250. I had a 32mm bike wrench from when I did my tie rods on the 318. I can't find it, and it's driving me crazy. rap music fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Jul 1, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 03:59
|
|
|
Ok, so I just got an awesome new job at Amazon.com and start in two weeks. How does this car look: http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1247270405.html It's got 170k miles but looks beautiful... how many more miles would I expect it to last reliably? Or should I look for something with fewer miles on it? It's a 1995 325iC with a 1999 M3 body.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 09:27
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:awesome new job at Amazon.com Let me be the first to say, "Congratulations, can you hook me up with a free Prime account???" I'd say that's a hell of a car for $6k, if you're into convertibles. I'd definitely insist on parts receipts for any and all repairs and maintenance/upgrades.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 12:11
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:Ok, so I just got an awesome new job at Amazon.com and start in two weeks. I'd keep looking due to branded title. Owner posts on bimmerforums as NiTrOuSoXiDe. Seems like a nice guy but haven't met him (local).
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 16:12
|
|
|
This is just personal opinion, but I think the red leather interior is ugly as hell and looks like something out of the 80's. More technical, it looks like there's very little clearance between the back wheels and fender and. maybe I'm just used to cars with soft suspension, but I can totally see the wheels rubbing the fenders on a bumpy road or when taking decent corners at or near speed.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 16:31
|
|
|
Kenshin posted:Ok, so I just got an awesome new job at Amazon.com and start in two weeks. I can't believe I actually like what he's done to the interior!
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 16:43
|
|
|
 so now I have 4 completely different opinions. No worries, that one will probably be gone before I get my first paycheck, so I'll keep looking around.(to be honest I agree with the poster above me, I really like how the interior looks)
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 17:45
|
|
|
I think I'm pretty much poo poo out of luck on this, but maybe somebody here has some good news. I put a new gauge cluster in my '93 325i since the old one was just completely busted, and now everything works great. However, I'm pretty bugged by the mileage displaying incorrectly. The mileage on the new (used) cluster I put in is at 100k or so, and my car actually has around 125k miles on it. I asked the dealership if they would increase the mileage reading on the display to show properly, but they said they can't do it even though I want to INCREASE the mileage so there's obviously no foul play as far as resell value goes. Is there anything I can do to get the mileage showing properly?
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 19:48
|
|
|
Mr. Onslaught posted:I think I'm pretty much poo poo out of luck on this, but maybe somebody here has some good news. I put a new gauge cluster in my '93 325i since the old one was just completely busted, and now everything works great. However, I'm pretty bugged by the mileage displaying incorrectly. The mileage on the new (used) cluster I put in is at 100k or so, and my car actually has around 125k miles on it. Do you still have your old cluster? I think there's a little chip in the back that you can transfer to a new cluster that stores the odometer reading.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 19:57
|
|
|
CornHolio posted:Do you still have your old cluster? I think there's a little chip in the back that you can transfer to a new cluster that stores the odometer reading. Yeah I still have the old one...I tried asking a few mechanics around here if they could do the kind of swap and none of them had any idea what the hell I was talking about. I guess something like that is way too technical to try to do on my own?
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 20:03
|
|
|
Mr. Onslaught posted:Yeah I still have the old one...I tried asking a few mechanics around here if they could do the kind of swap and none of them had any idea what the hell I was talking about. I guess something like that is way too technical to try to do on my own? Should be in that white box on the left side. I'm fairly certain its meant to come out easy enough, but there might be a seal over it. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 20:22
|
|
|
Stupid question but since it's my first BMW why not. Got an e85 Z4 and sometimes when I shift into 2nd or 3rd there's this low "thud" sound coming from what it seems the floor towards the engine--almost on the ground, like let's say I'm going from 1st.....then I shift into 2nd and right when that happens it has this low, almost bassy, sounding 'thud'. It's not like a huge CRUNCH EXPLOSION sound but I noticed it when I turned the volume down while driving. Sometimes it happens but it's hard to not make it happen. It's my first manual car  I'm worried
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 20:33
|
|
|
Bahamutsrage posted:Stupid question but since it's my first BMW why not. Mine does the same when I put it into first on my '99 M3. Ditto on the first manual car.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 20:45
|
|
|
Just in case any of you want a really cheap M roadster, BMW of San Francisco has one that's been on their lot for over a year and they're pretty desperate to sell it at this point.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 21:09
|
|
|
DevCore posted:Mine does the same when I put it into first on my '99 M3. Yeah, at first I thought it was bass from the stereo but it's definitely from the car. I don't think that sound would be the transmission right?
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 21:17
|
|
|
Bahamutsrage posted:Yeah, at first I thought it was bass from the stereo but it's definitely from the car. I don't think that sound would be the transmission right? My E46 330i did this and my E39 530i (same engine/trans) did this. My friends E46 330i did this, several E46's I test drove did this. I'm pretty sure it's what BMW calls "normal" and I stopped worrying about it.
|
|
#
?
Jul 1, 2009 21:45
|
|
|
zamin posted:More technical, it looks like there's very little clearance between the back wheels and fender and. maybe I'm just used to cars with soft suspension, but I can totally see the wheels rubbing the fenders on a bumpy road or when taking decent corners at or near speed. Heh, that car has about 4x the clearance in the rear as my car (I can't fit my small finger between the tire and the fender), and I don't have any rubbing problems, even at the track or autocrossing. I do have 550lb springs and Koni DA's, that are set fairly stiff (although there is no rubbing even at full soft), and I have no idea how that compares to the stock suspension for clearance issues.
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 00:15
|
|
|
In my '90 325i I occasionally have a kind of WHOMP WHOMPP WHOMPPP sound that almost sounds like something rubbing coming from somewhere like the middle/rear of the car during low speed 1st gear or reverse turns. Any clues? I bet it's my LSD being angry that I never changed the diff oil since I bought the stupid car.
Moxie Omen fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Jul 2, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 01:14
|
|
|
Progress! From this:  To this:  Now this!!!  I'm still missing a few details. I need get the porkchops back on, the underpanel needs to be replaced, foglights (or delete panels, undecided), etc. Didn't pay anyone to do anything for me, and it came out pretty well. The nose panel still has a battle scar on it though. She drives like a dream ! I was giggling like a schoolgirl during my first trip out in over a month. Edit: Threw a CEL on the way home tonight. 
rap music fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Jul 2, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 01:17
|
|
|
My dad just bought a 2006 7 series e65. The I-drive menus are partially in English and German. when I change the language to English everything is fine until we turn the engine off and take the remote out. it then reverts to its previous state. Any Ideas how to get it to save the changes? Also the Navigations voice is in German no matter what I select in the I-drive, I can't see any other language options in the Navigation menus, How do I change it to English?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 11:54
|
|
|
dbaz posted:My dad just bought a 2006 7 series e65. The I-drive menus are partially in English and German. when I change the language to English everything is fine until we turn the engine off and take the remote out. it then reverts to its previous state. Any Ideas how to get it to save the changes? What country are you in? Where did the car come from? Was it imported? Can you post the last seven of the VIN?
|
|
#
?
Jul 2, 2009 23:34
|
|
|
Carbon Deity posted:Progress! Great job. Did you paint the hood and bumper yourself? Was it all cosmetic damage?
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 03:29
|
|
|
ynotony posted:Great job. Did you paint the hood and bumper yourself? Was it all cosmetic damage? I worked my resources and found a hood and bumper already in Cosmos. There was some damage to the radiator (core) support that I had to replace, which ended up being very straightforward. I love how drat near everything on the front end of these cars is an 8 or 10mm bolt. Secure and very easy to work on. I really lucked out on the hood. Often people say that you can't just swap out painted panels because it still won't match. The M3 that this hood came from was the same year and had the same mileage!
|
|
#
?
Jul 3, 2009 04:01
|
|
|
Indiana goon chiming in, after driving around in my friends e30, his brothers e36 m3 and his old e46 I've decided I need to join the bmw cult. I'm selling my wrangler for hopefully six grand and then I'm hoping to find an e30 thats unmolested and most likely outside of indiana. Bimmerforums has a few e30s that I like but I'd like to be able to find more. I'd personally like to pick one up from Cali and get it to the midwest somehow. Anybody have any tips/tricks on buying an old 3 series?
|
|
#
?
Jul 5, 2009 04:15
|
|
|
I am now a prick!
Adiabatic fucked around with this message at 03:50 on Jul 6, 2009 |
|
#
?
Jul 6, 2009 03:42
|
|
|
91 318iS Based on the photo, any guesses what exactly is the source of this leak? I replaced all the injector o-rings and the the two short hoses back in February when I removed the intake manifold to fix the 'hose mess'. Any guesses what's causing this leak? There's a pool of gas just to the right of injector #3.   
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2009 01:17
|
|
|
BraveUlysses posted:91 318iS Cracked injector rail? Also, those aren't BMW approved hose clamps.  EDIT: I also had to re-do my injector o-rings on my E28 because they weren't seated correctly.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2009 01:27
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 6, 2024 00:09 |
|
|
My E30 saga continues... I've all but convinced myself that I need to get rid of the thing. I got it running again last night (replaced the main relay in addition to BOTH of the fuel pumps). This morning I woke up and started on the rear sway bar since the bushings were shot, so I decided to replace it with the bar that matches my aftermarket front sway bar. After loving around with it for an hour or so I decide to lower the diff for more room, which shouldn't be a problem since I replaced the diff a couple months ago, I should be able to handle just lowering it a bit... Nope I lower it a few inched and realize that the new mounting hardware is too short to mount it, so I drive up to the hardware store for longer bolts. I come home to find that my floor jack that was holding the diff up had lowered on its own (and the jackstand I had under there had slid out of place) and the diff was being held up by the drive shaft (which was resting on the subframe). I push the diff back into place and mount it back up only to be greeted by a grinding sound when I turned it. When the diff was lowered, it disconnected the rear half of the shaft from the front half. I started the car to confirm my fear and put it in gear. I could hear the drive shaft rotating but only the front half was spinning. I love this car. It's so much fun to drive and to work on, but when poo poo like this happens its just too depressing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 7, 2009 04:44
|
|