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So there was an ad on craigslist that I've been watching for an 07 rubicon unlimited, 46,000 miles, every option except the mygig deck, $24,500 canadian. I was about to make an offer, emailed the guy, got and got a response. I was planning on looking at it today. Well I guess I waited too long, because it got snapped up yesterday. I talked to my father today and he tells me "Oh I grabbed a rubicon off craigslist" He ended up paying $23,000 for it ($19,886 usd) and it's in clean clean condition other than a scratch along the side that can be buffed out. Apparently the first mods will be 4" lift, 315/70/17 (34.5x12.5) Firestone Destination MT's, and HID foglights. The only suspicious thing he said about it was when he tested out the functions in a gravel parking lot, the rear diff locker took a bit of driving before it disengaged. It stayed flashing on the dash for about 15 seconds, then he hit a button again and it turned off and the rear unlocked. Is that normal or is that perhaps a warranty claim ?
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Jun 29, 2009 21:09
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DILLIGAF posted:
How does it ride around town with that much lift? Does it steer a lot different considering the steering geometry is dramatically changed?
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Jun 29, 2009 21:20
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A couple of months ago I took the cover off my fright differential to change the gear oil. I got it all back together and it seemed like I had a good seal 4 months ago but now its fairly leaky so I'm going to have to redo the seal. Any tips to prevent leaks? I had a pretty solid bead of RTV around all the edges when I put the cover back on. Looking at it now, I can tell I didn't put enough RTV around the bottom of the cover. How long should I wait after applying RTV to fill the diff? I know it air cures and I know it cures faster in heat but as a general rule how long should you wait? In the process of refilling my front diff the first time I did this I realized why people pay mechanics. It was a huge dirty pain in the rear end. I hate the smell of gear oil. Everytime I get underneath a vehicle on jackstands I can't help but contemplate how painful getting crushed by a car would be. I frequently will bang my knuckles on something when trying to break nuts on cars. If I didn't feel like a retard paying someone 50 bucks or whatever a mechanic charges, I'd pay someone else to do it.
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Jun 29, 2009 22:04
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VeinsMcGee, I strongly suggest that you check out LubeLocker gaskets. They're available for both the front and rear of your Jeep and claim to be reusable - Jp magazine tested them out and got 3 changes before they got too deformed to line up with the cover bolts. I hate installing diff covers with RTV too, and I'll be adding these to both of my trucks the next time I change their gear oil. If you use RTV again, here's a couple tips: - Use a straightedge on your cover to make sure you didn't bend or gouge the sealing surfaces. - Don't be afraid to slime a huge bead onto the cover. Whatever excess ends up inside the diff will be eaten by the gears. Whatever slops all over the outside can be cut off with a razor after it fully cures. - Let the RTV take a minute or two to get just a little tacky before you put the cover on, but no more - it can get solid really fast. The RTV doesn't squeeze out as easily when you're installing the cover, and you end up with a thicker seal bead. - Keep a bolt in the top center of the cover so that when you're reinstalling it you have a point of alignment. Get the top center bolt threaded in, then install the bottom center bolt. At this point you can add the rest without worrying about the cover sliding around too much. - If you have an accurate inch pound wrench, use it. Otherwise, you don't need to tighten the bolts much more than moderately hand-tight, or you're squeezing out too much RTV to get a good seal. - I always let RTV cure for as long as possible before refilling the diff, overnight if possible with the fill plug removed. Then again, I've refilled immediately before with no problems. quote:I hate the smell of gear oil. Like the smell of your own farts, you learn to love it... incredibull fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jun 29, 2009 |
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Jun 29, 2009 22:30
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I kinda like the smell of gear oil v vQuestion about filling though. Is there some easy trick to filling the differential up? I had a brand new bottle of oil so I just kind of squirted it in there to top it off, but when I change it and refill, I'm not sure how I'm going to do that. A funnel and tube or something? I just couldn't tip the bottle up high enough to get it to gravity fill.
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Jun 30, 2009 00:04
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Use a gear oil pump  They look like something for putting flavor crap on snocones and screw on to your bottle.There are also handpumps that look like grease guns. You can use these to suck the old oil out and put the new oil in, no pulling the diff cover! They sell these at autoparts stores.
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Jun 30, 2009 00:50
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SNiPER_Magnum posted:Use a gear oil pump If you're towing or going off-road I recommend removing the cover to inspect the gears and make sure you clean out any metal fragments that might have broken off. I've had a grand cherokee and now a cherokee and never had any issues with them but it's worth a look. incredibull posted:VeinsMcGee, I strongly suggest that you check out LubeLocker gaskets. They're available for both the front and rear of your Jeep and claim to be reusable - Jp magazine tested them out and got 3 changes before they got too deformed to line up with the cover bolts. I hate installing diff covers with RTV too, and I'll be adding these to both of my trucks the next time I change their gear oil. And gently caress yes I'm doing this next time.
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Jun 30, 2009 01:20
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incredibull posted:lubelocker I thought about using one but jeepforum.com didn't seem sold on it. Anyways, you're other suggestions sound about like what I did. I should have gone with my gut when I realized that I might have not put enough RTV on the first time. I'm intimately familiar with the smell of gear oil through the military. I'm also intimately familiar with the smell of burned gear oil. Neither smells have grown on me. The next time I change my gear oil I'm using one of the handpumps. I figure I'll crack the diff cover once every 2 or 3 changes just to inspect the gears and clean out any metal debris.
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Jun 30, 2009 02:47
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chocmilkrush posted:How does it ride around town with that much lift? Does it steer a lot different considering the steering geometry is dramatically changed? I have only put about 30 miles on it, but against all good sense and expectations, the steering is more responsive now. It used to seem overly mushy, vague... now it is a lot crisper. Shouldn't it have been the other way around? It does seem a little less sure in medium-high speed corners. You can feel that extra weight sitting higher off the ground, making it feel more top heavy. Good thing I never expected it to corner well above 10mph anyway.  I took it around my area, on road, dirt road, over every bump I could find (and a few curbs), then up to 80mph or so to see if I could detect any problems (dread death wobble) but it felt great to me! The first time I got in, I could REALLY tell the difference... felt like I had to hop a little to climb up!
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Jun 30, 2009 02:51
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fordham posted:If you're towing or going off-road I recommend removing the cover to inspect the gears and make sure you clean out any metal fragments that might have broken off. This is true but it is also nice to be able to drain before you do that. Much less messy to pull the cover after the diff is empty. The pumps can be a bit of a bitch laying on the ground, though.
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Jun 30, 2009 03:06
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chocmilkrush posted:How does it ride around town with that much lift? Does it steer a lot different considering the steering geometry is dramatically changed? Adjustable track bars can tighten up the steering slop after a lift as well as a drop/relocation bracket (which DILLIGAF installed) for it and a longer pitman arm depending on the amount of lift. quote:Get a 97 - 99 model. They have the strong rear axle, the stronger front axles, high pinion, and have the new style interior. Basically is you want to wheel it hard or put larger tires on etc, these are the best models to buy. And seconding this. Unless you really, really love the classic styling of the older models or can't change spark plugs ('00 & '01 are distributorless plug-on-wire), a '97-'99 are the best years to get. As far as changing diff oil goes, make sure to go around both sides of the bolt holes. I've never had a problem and usually refill with synthetic right after reinstalling the covers. Philip J Fry fucked around with this message at 04:02 on Jun 30, 2009 |
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Jun 30, 2009 03:44
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jonathan posted:So there was an ad on craigslist that I've been watching for an 07 rubicon unlimited, 46,000 miles, every option except the mygig deck, $24,500 canadian. I was about to make an offer, emailed the guy, got and got a response. Your dad bought the Jeep you were going to buy? Hey, at least you get to ride in it. As for the locker issue, did he try moving slowly in reverse to disengage it? That is usually the recommended method. I don't know what sort of mechanism they're using in the Rubis, but with most of the selectable aftermarket lockers, that usually works better than trying to move forward.
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Jun 30, 2009 04:06
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New question: I know the front right wheel bearing in my YJ is bad, because the wheel has play when I jack it up, but I decided to take it for a spin around the block a while ago, and it seems to vibrate quite a bit more with the clutch let out at low RPM, but when I push the clutch in at a similar speed, the vibration subsides quite a bit. My thinking is that I may have a failing U-joint in the rear driveshaft as well. The last time I blew up a u-joint in the back it just failed with no obvious increase in vibration prior to total failure. Is it somehow possible that my busted rear end wheel hub is somehow affected by engine drag, even though it's on the front axle and I'm in RWD? Either way, it's been a while since I got to drive the old cocksucker, so it was fun all the same. I should be getting it fixed this week, all I'm wondering is if I should expect to replace the U-joint as well, or if there is some other part going bad now.Just Empty Every Pocket.
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Jun 30, 2009 11:18
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Anyone ever retrofit power locks on their Cherokee? I'm thinking it shouldn't be too bad since everything is pre wired. Also, I got a toy for my Cherokee to pull:  The camper weighs less than 2k lbs, and the Cherokee tows it effortlessly. That's dry though, after a couple hundred pounds of gear we'll see how it does. I've already ordered a Yakima roof rack and some Airlift air bags to help out the rear end since it sags pretty good already with no gear. incredibull posted:Like the smell of your own farts, you learn to love it... Heh, gear oil is nothing. Try getting used to the smell of burnt ATF, never gonna happen. When I dropped the pan of my '00 Caravan with 140k on it, I literally gagged.
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Jun 30, 2009 14:14
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That is one sweet camper. How much did you pay if you don't mind? That's exactly what I want in a few years.quote:Try getting used to the smell of burnt ATF, never gonna happen. I don't think I've ever smelled that. I won't look forward to it since I always seem to end up getting ATF in my hair somehow.
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Jun 30, 2009 15:53
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incredibull posted:That is one sweet camper. How much did you pay if you don't mind? That's exactly what I want in a few years. Actually, I lucked out. The guy I bought it from won it in a contest and wanted to unload it for cash and I got it for 5k brand new. It retails for over 9k at dealerships depending on options. It's the smallest pop up Jayco makes, but it has lots of cool stuff like a torsion axle, hydraulic brakes, and a deep cycle battery that automatically charges whenever I plug into my Jeep or an outlet. The only option it doesn't have is A/C which I'll be adding soon, it's pre wired, all I have to do is take out the roof vent and the AC unit drops right in. Gotta have AC when camping in Florida haha.
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Jun 30, 2009 17:42
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DILLIGAF posted:Looks pretty clean considering the age... new to you? Just got it a few days ago and I love it. The previous owner was a mechanic and took great care of it.
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Jul 1, 2009 00:14
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leica posted:The camper weighs less than 2k lbs, and the Cherokee tows it effortlessly. That's dry though, after a couple hundred pounds of gear we'll see how it does. I've already ordered a Yakima roof rack and some Airlift air bags to help out the rear end since it sags pretty good already with no gear. That trailer have brakes? My XJ tows my 2000+lb boat without a problem (though I recommend a tranny cooler if you are planning to go long distances (especially in FL)). My problem is stopping the drat thing. No trailer brakes 
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Jul 1, 2009 00:47
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fordham posted:That trailer have brakes? My XJ tows my 2000+lb boat without a problem (though I recommend a tranny cooler if you are planning to go long distances (especially in FL)). My problem is stopping the drat thing. No trailer brakes Yeah it has hydraulic surge brakes, and the Jeep has the Towing package with the tranny cooler already. I need to change the fluid though and I'm not looking forward to it especially since I need to clean out the pan and filter. 
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Jul 1, 2009 01:23
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leica posted:Yeah it has hydraulic surge brakes, and the Jeep has the Towing package with the tranny cooler already. I need to change the fluid though and I'm not looking forward to it especially since I need to clean out the pan and filter. The advice from a long-time Jeep mechanic (my cousin) was to change it every 30k and the pan/filter every 90k, unless the oil that comes out looks something other than new-like. It's always come out bright red for me. The AW4's have a heavy duty metal filter that can even be washed and reused if it's still in good shape. He told me when they started using those filters back in the 80's they were like $45+ each (in early 80's dollars) so they would wash em and reuse em all the time.
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Jul 1, 2009 03:04
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leica posted:Yeah it has hydraulic surge brakes, and the Jeep has the Towing package with the tranny cooler already. I need to change the fluid though and I'm not looking forward to it especially since I need to clean out the pan and filter. You don't wheel your amazingly capable Jeep? Unless I'm mistaken, because of your towing package you're rocking a Dana 44 in the back, which is extremely rare in the XJs. You should go out and flog the poo poo out of that fat bitch sometime. You'll be glad you did.
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Jul 1, 2009 11:23
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Clamwacker posted:You don't wheel your amazingly capable Jeep? Unless I'm mistaken, because of your towing package you're rocking a Dana 44 in the back, which is extremely rare in the XJs. You should go out and flog the poo poo out of that fat bitch sometime. You'll be glad you did. Oh poo poo, are you sure? How can I tell for sure if it's a D44? By the way I have been wheeling it, just not lately. I used to manage a campground with miles of hiking trails and I used it to "maintain" them.  
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Jul 1, 2009 14:43
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leica posted:Anyone ever retrofit power locks on their Cherokee? I'm thinking it shouldn't be too bad since everything is pre wired. Dammit, i just saw a write-up on this last month when I was looking for something unrelated. Pictures and everything. Might have been at NAXJA? leica posted:Oh poo poo, are you sure? How can I tell for sure if it's a D44? The 44 cover is kind of a lopsided vaguely hexagonal shape. Here is a graphic.
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Jul 1, 2009 16:51
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Going to take a day trip up the divide on Friday, hopefully there won't be too many Fourth of July campers clogging up the trails. The road up to Rollins/Corona Pass is getting logged to hell due to the pine beetle infestation. Logging access road + spring runoff = Awesome mudding opportunity. This was taken in early June: 
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Jul 1, 2009 21:16
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Boomerjinks posted:Going to take a day trip up the divide on Friday, hopefully there won't be too many Fourth of July campers clogging up the trails. I have been meaning to ask (though I am sure it has been asked before, I haven't seen the answer).. What made you put the lights on the bar for the #18 Jeep? IIRC, it didn't have the lights. Why not use another number (the #12 had the lights...) Just curious.
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Jul 1, 2009 22:54
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DILLIGAF posted:I have been meaning to ask (though I am sure it has been asked before, I haven't seen the answer).. What made you put the lights on the bar for the #18 Jeep? IIRC, it didn't have the lights. Why not use another number (the #12 had the lights...) You're absolutely right. #18 and #29 (the first two seen in the movie) did not have lights on the lightbar. Back in April I was trying to get everything ready for the car, I had the sidesteps and the winch and pretty much everything else ready to go. I bought one light bar and fabricated another, one with supports for lights and one without. The plan was to have them be interchangeable since I'd prefer to have some kind of lighting setup for when the jeep had it's soft top on, and then the plain bar for the rest of the time. April was incredibly snowy and rainy this year, so the top stayed up on the jeep for most of it, including a couple of car shows and a con. The reasoning was that the jeep would look better with the top up if it had lights on it. Really, I haven't gotten around to painting up the other, accurate, bar. It's sitting in my garage right now and will probably have to wait until my current project is finished. Eventually I'll knock the number of lights down to four, as well, but for now it's just going to stay that way.
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Jul 1, 2009 23:01
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Molten Llama posted:Dammit, i just saw a write-up on this last month when I was looking for something unrelated. Pictures and everything. I searched NAXJA and couldn't find anything like that. Also I do not have the Dana 44 dammit.....Didn't think so.
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Jul 1, 2009 23:16
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I posted earlier about how my front differential(d30) appeared to be leaking. I opened up the fill plug on the front and it looks like I overfilled it. It's parked nose first on a very slight uphill. Some things: 1) There was the beginnings of a drip of gear oil coming of the bottom of the front diff. The entire bottom half of the cover near the seal is moist. 2) I filled the dif in Feb and I go to school at Va Tech. Needless to say, it was balls cold outside. While filling, I didn't pay attention to the volume I put in. I put enough in that it was dripping out of the fill hole, waited for that to stop and then I capped it back up. I guess I'm going to wait for oil in the front diff to even up with the fill plug and then close it back up. Then I'm going to degrease the bottom of the diff and observe to see if it's leaking over the next couple of days/weeks. I don't see any reason to pull the cover in the short term if I haven't lost an appreciable amount of oil. Unless someone sees it otherwise, I'll just leave it be.
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Jul 1, 2009 23:19
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leica posted:I searched NAXJA and couldn't find anything like that. Look at the chart, does it look like what they have shown as a Chrysler 8.25? Or is it the D35?
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Jul 1, 2009 23:20
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:Look at the chart, does it look like what they have shown as a Chrysler 8.25? It's the 35. Oh well, no biggie, once I get back to Florida it won't be off road much anyway
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Jul 2, 2009 00:39
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Boomerjinks posted:You're absolutely right. #18 and #29 (the first two seen in the movie) did not have lights on the lightbar. Back in April I was trying to get everything ready for the car, I had the sidesteps and the winch and pretty much everything else ready to go. I bought one light bar and fabricated another, one with supports for lights and one without. The plan was to have them be interchangeable since I'd prefer to have some kind of lighting setup for when the jeep had it's soft top on, and then the plain bar for the rest of the time. April was incredibly snowy and rainy this year, so the top stayed up on the jeep for most of it, including a couple of car shows and a con. The reasoning was that the jeep would look better with the top up if it had lights on it. Makes sense... and I didn't even catch the extra light.
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Jul 2, 2009 00:56
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Aw well, that would have been pretty cool. I was misinformed, I thought all the towing package-equipped XJs had D44s.
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Jul 2, 2009 03:49
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Clamwacker posted:Aw well, that would have been pretty cool. I was misinformed, I thought all the towing package-equipped XJs had D44s. the d44 was only available from 1987 – 1990 on the cherokee.
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Jul 2, 2009 04:41
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I'm posting this for a friend. He owns a 1997 Jeep Wrangler 4WD with an automatic and recently when he puts the vehicle in reverse it will jerk backwards; same with drive but in that case jerking forward. Today I drove it around and you can easily feel the jerking motion when you put it in gear. The jerking motion is when the vehicle is placed in gear, just like you happened to get bumped, there's no jerking while actually driving the vehicle. He is concerned that the transmission is going. Is this a legitimate concern? Edit: I forgot the engine; he has the 4.0L inline 6 Raganti fucked around with this message at 09:47 on Jul 2, 2009 |
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Jul 2, 2009 09:27
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Raganti posted:I'm posting this for a friend. What are the RPMs at when you shift? Does it shift OK while driving?
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Jul 2, 2009 14:19
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Raganti posted:I'm posting this for a friend. tell him to check his engine/transmission mounts. If they are bad they will allow alot of movement in the driveline.
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Jul 2, 2009 19:07
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Hey Boomerjinks, I found your brother-from-another-mother. Here is a #12 completed http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=659653 
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Jul 2, 2009 23:36
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Yeah, that one is absolutely spot-on except for the dash and doors. The dude lives in Florida so he was able to take measurements off the screen-used jeep at IOA, and his paint job is WAY better. Of course, he had bluray-quality reference pictures to work with while building his...
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Jul 3, 2009 00:42
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I had no idea what a serious thing that is. Those are awesome.
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Jul 3, 2009 00:56
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Doctor Zero posted:I had no idea what a serious thing that is. They are pretty cool. They may not be something I would do, but I can definitely appreciate the work that goes in to recreating one in such detail.
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Jul 3, 2009 01:19
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