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TurboLuvah posted:May possibly?! The car is brand new with just over 7,000 miles, they're sure as gently caress going to fix it for him, without raising a stink. It looks like Subaru is treating their customers right but I have yet to hear from SOA about my case. It also looks like quite a few people are getting a complimentary extended warranty out of the deal too.
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Jul 7, 2009 17:43
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I'm looking at a 2005 WRX that's been modded with 123k miles (Cobb exhaust, TIEN coilovers, Access port tune). The guy says that it's mostly highway miles, and with that many it would pretty much have to be, right? He is selling it for $10k which seems low for an 05 WRX. He says that the timing belt was done 20k miles ago and new brakes all around 10k miles ago. It looks to be in very good condition from the photos he has sent me. Thoughts?
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Jul 7, 2009 18:30
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two_beer_bishes posted:I'm looking at a 2005 WRX that's been modded with 123k miles (Cobb exhaust, TIEN coilovers, Access port tune). The guy says that it's mostly highway miles, and with that many it would pretty much have to be, right? He is selling it for $10k which seems low for an 05 WRX. He says that the timing belt was done 20k miles ago and new brakes all around 10k miles ago. It looks to be in very good condition from the photos he has sent me. Thoughts? If you aren't prepared to drop a new engine, transmission or both in it, don't buy it. It's possible it was babied, but more than likely it wasn't. I didn't listen though when everyone told me, I paid 6k for an 02 with 110k on it that had been modified, the engine blew before I even got my pinkslip and I had taken it to a mechanic for a thorough inspection and driven it more than 300 miles test driving it. It's a gamble.
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Jul 7, 2009 19:09
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So I don't want to jinx the deal, but would a 2002 WRX be okay with E10-blended fuel, or should I try my hardest to find "natural" 90+ octane? I've gotten into a bad habit of filling up my crapbox with E10 and for some reason I remember vague rumblings about ethanol and turbo Subarus. I don't mind the extra cost (at least not at the moment) - it's just out of my way since all the pumps in my neighborhood are Husky or Mohawk. e: vvv I'm pretty sure an E85 conversion needs new fuel lines and a bunch of other gubbins, too - from what I'm told it tends to be vaguely corrosive. Some older racing fuel cells also don't like it and need a new bladder, but the stock tank should take it. An E85 conversion would be a net negative for me considering E85 is less common than race gas pumps around here. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 21:14 on Jul 7, 2009 |
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Jul 7, 2009 20:58
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E10 should be just fine, there will probably just be a mileage and slight power decrease. I'm not even sure what the fuel is around here, it's at least E5 and may be E10 due to the phasing out of MTBE. As long as you use at least 91 octane you should be golden as long as you aren't using e85 or something. Turbo subarus are actually very ethanol friendly. I remember reading about an E85 conversion on a WRX and really all that was necessary was bigger injectors, bigger fuel pump, and a custom tune.
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Jul 7, 2009 21:04
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Seat Safety Switch posted:So I don't want to jinx the deal, but would a 2002 WRX be okay with E10-blended fuel, or should I try my hardest to find "natural" 90+ octane? I've gotten into a bad habit of filling up my crapbox with E10 and for some reason I remember vague rumblings about ethanol and turbo Subarus. I'm not sure I trust the E85 stuff people are doing for long term use. Sure, it is fine for a year or two, but there is a reason real E85 cars have conmpletely different rubber and plastic bits. Ethanol is hard on those components. If these cars last a decade, put on 100k mi+ with no fuel system issues, then I'll start believeing. I see a somewhat noticable mpg hit 1-2 mpg on e10 v. "real" gas (for example, Minneapolis to Beloit, WI 65 mph cruise control, no AC is 27 v. 29 on my stg 1 LGT.) but, "real" 91/93 tends to cost more and is a pain in the rear end to find. It wasn't worth it. nm fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Jul 7, 2009 |
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Jul 7, 2009 21:44
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Yeah, I wasn't advocating an E85 conversion and I have no idea if the rubber bits that subaru uses would stand up to E85 long term. I would think though that most modern cars would use ethanol resistant rubber parts by this point. It's just the fact that it's a very tunable turbo engine with a large aftermarket that makes the conversion so easy from the perspective of getting everything running fine.
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Jul 7, 2009 22:46
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"[ELP posted:"] I don't get it...is it the modifications that do this or do these drive trains really only last 150k miles before they poo poo themselves?
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Jul 8, 2009 02:34
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two_beer_bishes posted:I don't get it...is it the modifications that do this or do these drive trains really only last 150k miles before they poo poo themselves? Usually when these cars are modified they are beat on by their owners, and it can sometimes be a crapshoot to buy a modified one. The car/engine should be fine if the owner has done the proper modifications and had the car tuned for it, but some many brosef shitheads get the cars and drop a loud fuckoff BOV on the car with a catback and start dumping clutches at every stop light thinking their ride is mad tyte yo. Cue lovely compression and oil consumption and blown motors. It's like this when buying any modified car, and more so on forced induction vehicles that have been modified. From the sound of it, the owner at least had an Accessport tune on the car, so it's in the right direction. With any sort of modification to the exhaust, a catless up pipe would be a smart idea, but I didn't see any mention of that. If you are really interested in the car have it checked out at a Subaru dealership and have a compression test done on the motor so you know where it stands, and if you get to drive it, drive it fairly hard and see if any problems pop up. A friend of mine's father has an 02 WRX that has over 240k miles on it, and the only thing he's done is regular maint, replace the radiator at 180k due to a crack in the plastic lovely endtanks, and replaced the TD04 turbocharger at 230k, so with proper care most boxer motors, turbo or not, should run for a considerable amount of miles. It's just that they're relatively affordable, so there are a lot of morons beating the hell out of the cars on a daily basis which causes them to poo poo themselves considerably sooner. TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Jul 8, 2009 |
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Jul 8, 2009 02:44
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TurboLuvah posted:Usually when these cars are modified they are beat on by their owners, and it can sometimes be a crapshoot to buy a modified one. The car/engine should be fine if the owner has done the proper modifications and had the car tuned for it, but some many brosef shitheads get the cars and drop a loud fuckoff BOV on the car with a catback and start dumping clutches at every stop light thinking their ride is mad tyte yo. Cue lovely compression and oil consumption and blown motors. It's like this when buying any modified car, and more so on forced induction vehicles that have been modified. Here is the actual list. I didn't include the up pipe since I guess I consider that to be part of the exhaust...I dunno. code:
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Jul 8, 2009 02:47
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Is changing headers really easy? Like can I just unbolt it from the up pipe and engine and the unbolt the up pipe from the turbo? The reason I ask is I have a full header to go with my new GT28R, turbo back and front mount but it needs a T25/28 flange for the turbo as it has a factory turbo flange right now. I was thinking I might just put it on now if its not too much trouble and that will allow me to check fitment and what not.
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Jul 8, 2009 14:52
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two_beer_bishes posted:A couple of things that stand out to me: (not deal breakers, but make me wonder about their taste) HPS Racing pads for street application? Did they give any details on who did the pro-tune? The Tein's are generally regarded as laughable around here, but are generally ok for street driving, assuming you have SOME suspension travel. AFR guage is a waste - only thing you'll ever see on it is if something is REALLY wrong. This is all assuming it isn't a wideband 02 setup. The mods are at least matching a conventional wisdom and understanding and aren't totally  but there are some gaps in there.Sounds to me like it was probably driven pretty hard between bouts on the highway. I'd echo the concerns of having a compression and/or leak down test done.
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Jul 8, 2009 15:09
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RealKyleH posted:Is changing headers really easy? Like can I just unbolt it from the up pipe and engine and the unbolt the up pipe from the turbo? The reason I ask is I have a full header to go with my new GT28R, turbo back and front mount but it needs a T25/28 flange for the turbo as it has a factory turbo flange right now. I was thinking I might just put it on now if its not too much trouble and that will allow me to check fitment and what not. I'm not sure about flange fitment, but headers are quite easy to remove. You don't need to unbolt the uppipe. Just unbolt the uppipe from the crosspipe. You're going to need new gaskets too.
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Jul 8, 2009 15:41
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Not sure which is the up pipe and which is the cross pipe, haven't needed to really work on the car yet. Am I to understand that between the turbine inlet and engine theres three sets of pipe, theres my one piece header, a cross pipe, and an up pipe? That would be pretty great actually because I could use the SS pipes I have to fab an up pipe and simply swap the turbo and up pipe when it comes time. Do I need a tune to have a catback and header/crosspipe? I never got around to buying a tuner as I've been busy as hell. EDIT: None of my service manuals have diagrams for the EJ20 Turbo Exhaust components AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 15:59 on Jul 8, 2009 |
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Jul 8, 2009 15:52
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RealKyleH posted:Not sure which is the up pipe and which is the cross pipe, haven't needed to really work on the car yet. Am I to understand that between the turbine inlet and engine theres three sets of pipe, theres my one piece header, a cross pipe, and an up pipe? You are correct, 3 pieces. You will definitely need a tune after replacing these exhaust components. If you're using stainless, make sure you use at least grade 304. It also has a high coefficient of expansion, so do not tighten turbo flange or crosspipe bolts much tighter that ~20ft-lbs.
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Jul 8, 2009 16:12
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ok, thanks. I guess Ill need to fab an up pipe that has the proper flanges. Not a problem I got plenty of stainless pipes: Crosspost from most AIest thread: 
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Jul 8, 2009 21:35
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RealKyleH posted:Can I have one?
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Jul 9, 2009 01:58
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ssjonizuka posted:A couple of things that stand out to me: (not deal breakers, but make me wonder about their taste) Thanks, I appreciate the info. If I tell you that this would be my daily driver would most of you tell me to avoid it? I don't care about harsh suspension, my E30 has a harsh ride and my current DD Focus has a flat out racing setup on it. I'm only looking at this WRX because it seems like a great deal on what is normally $13k+.
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Jul 9, 2009 02:38
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dayman posted:Can I have one? If you're interested in buying one these are a sample order to test quality. I am planning on putting the GT28R on my car. Elp contacted me about one of the GT35Rs a while back but luckily I have two. If you are interested PM me for a great deal on the condition that you give me a full writeup about your experience with it and actually use it sometime soon.
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Jul 9, 2009 02:58
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dayman posted:Can I have one? Don't buy a Chinese turbo for your car please.
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Jul 9, 2009 04:06
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I just bought a new 2009 2.5i 5-Door with the Premium package. No way to afford a WRX, but the 2.5i is already much more car than I'm used to. I managed to get the 0.0% rate for 63 months, which was unexpected but a pleasant surprise. Also ended up getting a sport grille + armrest extension on it for free, because it seems like they're basically standard on all the 9LC's, at least in the area. So now it's just down to making payments and keeping up with factory maintenance schedule. Is there anything in particular that might not be covered in the owner's manual that I should know about? It feels so good to be back in a Subaru.
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Jul 9, 2009 05:23
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tires, a good alignment, and a rear swaybar are the first steps to making your car much much more fun to drive.
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Jul 9, 2009 05:27
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jamal posted:tires, a good alignment, and a rear swaybar are the first steps to making your car much much more fun to drive. I'm going to first drive it through the break-in period plus a little bit extra as the first step towards making it more fun to drive. First oil-change at 3000-some is correct, right, not after the 1000mile break-in is up?
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Jul 9, 2009 05:41
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ssjonizuka posted:HPS Racing pads for street application?
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Jul 9, 2009 06:00
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two_beer_bishes posted:Thanks, I appreciate the info. If I tell you that this would be my daily driver would most of you tell me to avoid it? I don't care about harsh suspension, my E30 has a harsh ride and my current DD Focus has a flat out racing setup on it. I'm only looking at this WRX because it seems like a great deal on what is normally $13k+. I still maintain that you should go over it with a fine tooth comb, I had a compression test done when I got it, drove it hard, did everything right I thought. I just feel like for the amount you're paying there's more options for 10k. But I guess you're well informed now, gotta make the decision that's right for you.
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Jul 9, 2009 06:27
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TurboLuvah posted:Don't buy a Chinese turbo for your car please. Wasn't planning on it. I said have, not sell.  I am actually looking into getting the FP 68HPA. It seems like the perfect match for my 350whp goal while still maintaining reasonable spool-up.
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Jul 9, 2009 13:33
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TurboLuvah posted:Don't buy a Chinese turbo for your car please. Normally I'd be with you, I decided to go with these and give them a try because for every thread I read on the internet, I know someone who has personally ran them for 5000+ street miles and the turbo lasted longer than the motor, tranny, axles, car, etc. Wouldn't sell them to all my customers yet, but I'll be keeping a detailed log about it. Out of 5 people I know from being friends with or car meets no one has blown up a Chinese turbo, nor do the people they know blow up the turbos. I am speculating that its mostly due to oiling and break-in problems, and maybe not cleaning them out beforehand. Also I am betting the Chinese headers (including mine) are 201SS and not 304 and that's why they crack a little easier and wear out (flake) faster than american made 304SS headers. I know how to weld. The welds on it are nicely and correctly done, I am betting the material is lacking though. 201 is even worse than 304 for cracking and scaling. If it all works well, I might see about getting my supplier to produce an MS header with MS flanges for me. Honestly though so far I have been impressed with all the new items I've gotten though. With one exception my Chinese suppliers give far better and faster customer service than my American ones, the only exception being Mac Valves. Mac valves are awesome. dayman posted:Wasn't planning on it. I said have, not sell. In that case the GT28R is mine and the GT35R is a little to much turbo for you. AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 14:52 on Jul 9, 2009 |
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Jul 9, 2009 14:44
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RealKyleH posted:In that case the GT28R is mine and the GT35R is a little to much turbo for you. Yeah, one day I'll probably get the itch for a big turbo. My brother's (the DSM owner) favorite saying is "It's not lag, it's foreplay." But if I can't enjoy my turbo in a 35-40 mph zone, it loses a lot of appeal for me. If it's any indication, the VF34 I have now is a bit too laggy for my tastes, but I'd be willing to allow a little bit more lag for an extra 50 wheel. From what people are saying about the 68HTA, it spools even faster than a typical 16G, which is right around where my VF34 is. If that's the case, then I'll sacrifice nothing in lag and get the extra horsepower anyway. By the way, I appreciate the offer realKyleH. If I was in a different place financially, I would definitely consider it.
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Jul 9, 2009 17:17
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RealKyleH posted:Honestly though so far I have been impressed with all the new items I've gotten though. With one exception my Chinese suppliers give far better and faster customer service than my American ones, the only exception being Mac Valves. Mac valves are awesome. One thing I've learned about Chinese manufacturers is that they will supply you with any equipment you want and the only big factor they're concerned with is how much you're willing to pay. You want some headers? Sure we'll build you some headers for $100, $300 or $500. They're all identical in design and the only difference is quality.
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Jul 9, 2009 18:12
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TurboLuvah posted:May possibly?! The car is brand new with just over 7,000 miles, they're sure as gently caress going to fix it for him, without raising a stink. Hm. That's good to hear actually. I guess I was getting some of NASIOC's info mixed up. Argh this week long trip cannot have come at a worse time – I spent three hours yesteday being a total Subaru tool. I want it nauuuuu In other news – I found out a buddy's roommate is a WRX Tuner. Sweet!
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Jul 9, 2009 20:24
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My AC has been blowing warm recently, so I picked up a couple cans of r134 and headed out to the garage to get to work. I crank the AC and am immediately greeted by a horrible vibrating/ticking noise coming from around the middle of the engine on the driver's side. Turn the AC off, noise quits. Also blows completely warm air now. I'll be taking it to a shop in the morning, but I was hoping someone on here could point out what's probably pretty obvious. The only AC trouble I've ever dealt with was a missing/torn seal in my old Acura. Of course this is the day before I'm taking a road trip to austin in the middle of a heat wave.  fake edit: it's an 02 WRX
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Jul 10, 2009 04:48
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Ha, my AC is gone too. I know where the leak is though because I did try to top off the refrigerant and noticed where it was hissing out when the compressor kicked in. I'm just pissed that a 2 ft long hose costs like $120 when I'm not $100 sure if I need to replace the whole hose or just the seal. Anyways, sounds like your compressor is shot. When you refilled it, it allowed the system to have enough pressure for it to kick on and that's what was making the racket.
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Jul 10, 2009 06:41
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The dealer just called and told me that they have a new long block on the way for my WRX. Hopefully I will have the car back by the end of next week.
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Jul 10, 2009 17:17
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If this isnt following the rules, then someone please smack me.... I originally asked in the AI Stupid Questions Part 2 thread about trading in my 2003 Ford F150 for a WRX Wagon, the general consensus was that you had to be careful about buying used WRX's as they have a tendency to get beat to poo poo and that I should peak at the first page of this thread about common issues. Being mechanically unfamiliar with WRX's im not sure what kinds of problems that were listed on the first page of this thread that would apply to the generation/model of WRX im looking at. For instance, here is a Model/Year that would be considered a ballpark for what im looking to get: http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/1263315886.html Aside from the awful blue interior, are there any real telltale signs that someone like myself could identify when trying to pick and choose a particular car? Is there something about that car in particular, or that range of years that throws up a huge red flag? PS: Being that I havent found within an hours drive of here, whats the general fit like for someone that is say 6'2 6'3 and approximately 300 pounds. Thanks (WRX Noob)
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Jul 11, 2009 07:47
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Whats the cheapest way to replace the completely useless clock in my 02 WRX? I wouldnt mind having a gauge pod in there if someone makes one that chan just swap in with a couple of 2" or whatever size gauges. EDIT: Found a center gauge pod for $45.99. Anyone know of a cheaper one? AnomalousBoners fucked around with this message at 16:08 on Jul 11, 2009 |
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Jul 11, 2009 15:30
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bung posted:The dealer just called and told me that they have a new long block on the way for my WRX. Hopefully I will have the car back by the end of next week. Make sure you have the tech look at your turbo too. Mine was full of little particles when they looked at it and that had to be replaced as well. Hopefully this is all done quickly for you - I know how much it sucks to be driving something else for a week!
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Jul 11, 2009 18:38
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RealKyleH posted:Whats the cheapest way to replace the completely useless clock in my 02 WRX? I wouldnt mind having a gauge pod in there if someone makes one that chan just swap in with a couple of 2" or whatever size gauges. You probably won't find one any cheaper than that actually, and most center staack pods have room for 3 gauges, might want to get boost oil pressure and exhaust temps.
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Jul 11, 2009 19:23
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GravityDaemon posted:Make sure you have the tech look at your turbo too. Mine was full of little particles when they looked at it and that had to be replaced as well. Hopefully this is all done quickly for you - I know how much it sucks to be driving something else for a week! I asked them about replacing the turbo but they said that they checked it out and it looked fine.
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Jul 11, 2009 20:47
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TurboLuvah posted:You probably won't find one any cheaper than that actually, and most center staack pods have room for 3 gauges, might want to get boost oil pressure and exhaust temps. The aftermarket header I have has a couple of O2 sensor holes is I was thinking it might behoove me to do a DIY wideband setup.
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Jul 11, 2009 21:09
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innovate and aem make good widebands. we use an innovate setup and bosch sensors with our dyno. The aem is easier to install (hook up power and ground) and comes pre-calibrated.
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Jul 12, 2009 04:29
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