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What's everyone's gut reaction to this insanely cheap high mile Z4 M Coupe? http://www.weatherfordbmw.com/inventory/preownedcarsearch.jsp I know the CPO warranty is only going to be good for another 29k miles, but still the price is really good. I have new car itch badly and would like to replace at least a couple of my vehicles with this...
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Jul 7, 2009 06:16
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Hey everyone. Friend of mine showed me SA and I figured since I'm in love with my car (and past car) I'd say hello. I drive a 2001 325xi, 5-Speed Manual, for the most part stock, other than a handful of cosmetic changes. A K&N "Cold Air Intake" (pretty much a short ram). My old car, before it was totaled in Nov '08 with 79K miles on it .. a 1998 318ti with a X-Brace, Bilstein Sport Shock/Struts, H&R Sport Springs, some cosmetics.. loved that thing. I'm fairly active on e46fanatics.com, use to be a regular on bf.c and 318ti.org. A couple shots of the car, click the image for a larger shot.  
ATF fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jul 11, 2009 |
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Jul 9, 2009 03:45
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ATF posted:Hey everyone. Very nice E46. The transitional shock from moving from the 318i to the M3 is wearing off. I think I need a AA C38 SC kit... What have I done?!
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Jul 10, 2009 00:31
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For those of you with older cars, might be a good idea to lift up the dust cover on your shifter and check the carrier bushing. I was taking mine off to get at some bolts (German engineering, unbolt the loving transfer case from inside the car!) and discovered the bushing is TRASHED. Guess I'll be adding a Z3 shifter and delrin bushings while I have my transmission out. Out of curiosity, are the newer BMW AWD systems such a huge loving pain in the rear end to work on? On a normal E30 I'd probably have been done by now, but every drat bolt on this thing is in a lovely place.
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Jul 10, 2009 00:38
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Crustashio posted:For those of you with older cars, might be a good idea to lift up the dust cover on your shifter and check the carrier bushing. I was taking mine off to get at some bolts (German engineering, unbolt the loving transfer case from inside the car!) and discovered the bushing is TRASHED. Guess I'll be adding a Z3 shifter and delrin bushings while I have my transmission out. Don't know which model BMW this is. Changing out the shift bushings on an E36 isn't too big a PITA, but not fun. It does help to drop the driveshaft. If your shift selector feels really loose and has a lot of movement when in gear, do yourself a favor and replace those bushings!
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Jul 10, 2009 00:41
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Crustashio posted:
As for the transfer case specifically: no, it's relatively easy to remove on newer cars. However, almost everything else is an enormous pain in the rear end compared to the old cars. For example: in order to fit the new N63 motor into our engine compartments they actually had to flip the heads so the intake runners are on the outside of the motor and the exhaust and cats sit in the valley. You wouldn't believe how cramped it is in there. And that's pretty much par for the course these days. I curse the day they invented CAD software.
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Jul 10, 2009 01:33
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I've gotten the "project bug", and am considering getting a second car to fix up, possibly restore if necessary, and eventually make a track rat out of. To this end, I've got my eye on a late model E30 325is. Basically, my questions come down to: what prices at what conditions should I expect, and how upgradable is the car? Most specifically, how big of an engine will fit in one (S50?)?
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Jul 10, 2009 23:49
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zamin posted:Most specifically, how big of an engine will fit in one (S50?)? V8? check.  V10? check.   V12? yep, that too.  It depends on just how insane you are (and how deep your pockets are). CornHolio fucked around with this message at 00:18 on Jul 11, 2009 |
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Jul 11, 2009 00:12
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Being designed for a straight six means just about anything will fit. Most popular swaps are M50/52 (e36 325/328 engines), m30b35 (e34 535), S50 (e36 m3). You can also get stroker and turbo kits for the m20b25. Of course if you have enough money, anything is possible. My favorite swap is the S38b38 swap from an m5. Prices will vary greatly depending on region/supply, but 2k should net a decent condition e30, and up around 4k should be a pristine one. Crustashio fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jul 11, 2009 |
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Jul 11, 2009 00:29
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Crustashio posted:
Awesome, so no worries on the engine front. I'm mostly looking for a beater to fix up and give me something to do, but not something that's so trashed that it'll cost more than an E46 to put back together.
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Jul 11, 2009 01:12
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I have an E36 with a little over 200k miles. There's some kind of rubbing noise that I can hear most prominently around 20-30 mph. I do not think it is the wheel bearings, since I checked them for play. I also had the front control arms and driveshaft bearing replaced fairly recently, to correct a shaking and a different rubbing noise. Any ideas on where to look?
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Jul 11, 2009 01:23
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Does the intensity of the noise change as you turn either left or right?
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Jul 11, 2009 01:25
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Carbon Deity posted:Does the intensity of the noise change as you turn either left or right? Not that I've noticed. I will check it next time I drive it around. Hector Barbossa fucked around with this message at 01:35 on Jul 11, 2009 |
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Jul 11, 2009 01:29
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When looking at E36 sedans, would there be any reason I might desire a OBD2 model for a weekend/track toy? At the moment, I'm looking exclusively at pre-OBD2 models so I can have more flexibility with engine management and still be able to get it past emissions. Also, is there a reference page for E36s which would be comparable to Bimmerfest's E46 wiki page? I'm kinda spoiled by that and have found it much harder to locate information on the E36.
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Jul 11, 2009 02:49
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wolrah posted:When looking at E36 sedans, would there be any reason I might desire a OBD2 model for a weekend/track toy? At the moment, I'm looking exclusively at pre-OBD2 models so I can have more flexibility with engine management and still be able to get it past emissions. Well, you get a slightly larger displacement engine if you go with a 96+ 328 E36. This means that in some areas it's easier to add horsepower. For instance, a popular mod is to switch to an OBD1 intake manifold off the earlier M50 motor; this is widely stated to provide significant power gains. Also, newer cars tend to have fewer problems than older ones. If I was looking for an E36 I certainly wouldn't be turned away simply because it's OBD2. There are many more important concerns when choosing a car.
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Jul 11, 2009 03:41
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I guess I should have specified that the mid-to-long term plans for this car would include an engine swap (50/50 on if it'll even be a BMW engine) and preferably a Megasquirt setup, thus the bit about flexibility with engine management. Having an OBD2 car in an E-Check county in Ohio means it has to be able to pass the plug test. Megasquirt and many other aftermarket ECUs can't do this, meaning I'd be limited to what could be done with the OEM ECU.
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Jul 11, 2009 05:39
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Ah, if you're yanking the motor then it makes quite a bit more sense. Just out of curiosity, what would you drop in?
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Jul 11, 2009 06:18
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peterjmatt posted:Ah, if you're yanking the motor then it makes quite a bit more sense. Just out of curiosity, what would you drop in? At the moment that's still very up in the air. Both the S50 and S54 have crossed my mind, as well as the idea of putting a LS1 in there, and even some more absurd ideas like a rotary. Right now the LS1 is leading for simply having the best power bang-for-the-buck, but having never driven an E36 I don't want to lock in my decision until I do, the feel of the car might push me in one way or another. The goal is a track toy that I could still daily drive for short times (if I need to take my E46 off the road for a short time for example).
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Jul 11, 2009 15:35
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Ok so I've started replacing the little rubber bits on my car ('99 E46 328i, 143k) and I feel like I might as well do the radiator as well. The fan and fan housing were replaced 7k ago so all I should need is radiator, t-stat and water pump? What about hoses, clamps, etc. This would be the biggest job I've ever done and while I'm slightly retarded, I'm armed with my Haynes and some optimism. If anyone could provide a list of parts I should replace I would be very grateful (If anyone is in the east bay area and would oversee/help I'd gladly buy you a case of beer or something too.) After I get the preventative maintenance done, I'd like to do some mild performance things. I've heard a K&N air filter will make the engine sound better and give a little hp boost. I was also wondering if anyone has any experience with adding a front stabilizer bar, my way home is on a wonderfully winding road and if I could get a little less roll in the corners without sacrificing road comfort it would be nice.
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Jul 11, 2009 19:45
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Deceptor101 posted:Ok so I've started replacing the little rubber bits on my car ('99 E46 328i, 143k) and I feel like I might as well do the radiator as well. The fan and fan housing were replaced 7k ago so all I should need is radiator, t-stat and water pump? What about hoses, clamps, etc. This would be the biggest job I've ever done and while I'm slightly retarded, I'm armed with my Haynes and some optimism. If anyone could provide a list of parts I should replace I would be very grateful (If anyone is in the east bay area and would oversee/help I'd gladly buy you a case of beer or something too.) E36, but I did radiator, hoses & clamps, themostat & housing, radiator cap, drain plugs & crush washer, waterpump, and belts. If you're still on the original cooling components, you should replace them yesterday. Quick google: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3466762 Beefier swaybars don't detract from ride comfort, but significantly reduce body roll. Most of the comfort is lost when you replace the OE springs and shocks.
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Jul 12, 2009 02:49
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91 318iS I had a leaky fuel rail, a friend hooked me up with a spare one and that seems to have resolved the leak @ the rail, but now it's pissing fuel like no tomorrow at the inlet to the fuel filter. The filter is 5 months old and I replaced the hose going into it (new clamps too) and its still pissing gas. Any thoughts? Fuel pressure regulator bad? I'm getting way too good at removing these PITA intake manifolds.
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Jul 12, 2009 16:57
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I just missed this $600 1991 318is by ten minutes. Argh.
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Jul 12, 2009 21:00
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Carbon Deity posted:Beefier swaybars don't detract from ride comfort, but significantly reduce body roll. Most of the comfort is lost when you replace the OE springs and shocks. Just to add on to this, I replaced my springs and shocks with H&R Sport copies and Bilstein sports. When I added the UUC SwayBarbarians set at medium strength both front and back I noticed no difference in highway cruising, but it makes the car really come alive in the corners. I was running stock 96+ M3 bars prior to the UUC bars. One of the best suspension upgrades for the buck, imo.
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Jul 12, 2009 21:05
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Do I need to rent a spring compressor to replace the front struts on my E36 M3? I didn't need one for the rear shocks. I'm replacing shocks and struts with OE parts, and not replacing the springs. How long will the front take me without air tools?
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Jul 12, 2009 21:29
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Pissingintowind posted:Do I need to rent a spring compressor to replace the front struts on my E36 M3? I didn't need one for the rear shocks. I'm replacing shocks and struts with OE parts, and not replacing the springs. Yes, if you're going to reuse your current springs then you need a spring compressor. It would take me maybe an hour or two in the driveway, less than an hour in a shop. I have no idea how fast you work or what tools you have. It's a fairly easy job though.
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Jul 12, 2009 21:35
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peterjmatt posted:Yes, if you're going to reuse your current springs then you need a spring compressor. Cool. I wonder why my Bentley didn't say anything about the spring compressor. Any other special tools I might need, or will I be okay with just basic sockets, a jack, and stands?
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Jul 12, 2009 22:07
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Pissingintowind posted:Cool. I wonder why my Bentley didn't say anything about the spring compressor. Any other special tools I might need, or will I be okay with just basic sockets, a jack, and stands? Unless you absolutely have to do it today, just pull the strut assembly, drop it at a Midas or whatever and hand them $40. It's much easier with a real spring compressor: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45860 Unless you *really* want to DIY with these: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=3980 It takes ~20 mins to take them off and put them on a car... but ~1hr to get them assembled at home with lovely spring compressors.
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Jul 12, 2009 22:53
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Pissingintowind posted:Cool. I wonder why my Bentley didn't say anything about the spring compressor. Any other special tools I might need, or will I be okay with just basic sockets, a jack, and stands? Well, without air tools tightening the locknut on the top of the strut might be a bit of a pain in the rear end. I'm sure there's a special tool so you can get a hex to hold the strut from spinning while you tighten the nut, but I've never used one. You'll just need to clamp the strut rod from spinning in such a way as not to damage its surface. Other than that it's all simple nuts and bolts.
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Jul 12, 2009 22:54
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Hmmm. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to use the AutoZone rental spring compressor. $40 is way too steep for some relatively easy looking labor, especially when a free option exists. It looks like I can tighten the nut on top of the strut with a simple hex key and a normal wrench, so that's good news.
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Jul 12, 2009 23:19
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...That might work, but I doubt it. The nut is set fairly deep in the upper strut bearing. I may be wrong, but I don't think you'll be able to get a wrench on it. It shouldn't be too hard to keep it from spinning though.
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Jul 12, 2009 23:26
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So i picked up an e30 (not the pristine one, rear end in a top hat sold it out from under me) and i'll hit you with the list i'm doing right now: Oil leak from the drain plug, either plug or sump stripped OBC replacement, backlight burned out and PO provided a replacement upholstery replacement on both seats sunroof jumped the track or broke 3rd day i had it blown headlight relay (switched with high beam) replacing exhaust from the cat-back typical odometer shenanigans (already got the gear) de-smell and restore the carpet front windshield replacement thinking about an oil pan guard from e30tech paintless dent removal, peel gold pinstripes, repaint car Front valance is tweaked, i dont really see a way to fix it... replace thinking about r134a conversion steering rack is done going aluminum radiator timing belt/water pump despite po's assurances... Only thing this car had going for it, was new clutch, rebuilt tranny and motor, and suspension goodies already present. Yes; i got receipts and it was from a reputable machine shop. *sigh* At least every time i look at this list i can go and drive it, blow around a corner, and zip around to make myself feel better. Coming from a jeep i feel like i'm driving a go cart.
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Jul 14, 2009 03:08
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I cleaned the hell out of the M3 yesterday and grabbed a couple shots.     
rap music fucked around with this message at 01:04 on May 22, 2013 |
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Jul 14, 2009 03:47
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peterjmatt posted:Well, without air tools tightening the locknut on the top of the strut might be a bit of a pain in the rear end. I'm sure there's a special tool so you can get a hex to hold the strut from spinning while you tighten the nut, but I've never used one. FWIW, TIS says specifically to NOT use an impact wrench to remove or install the nut at the top of the strut. There is a special tool called for, but you can approximate it with a long allen wrench, a deep socket, and a pair of vise grips. Also, I discovered that you can use an autozone pitman arm puller to press the tie rod and control arm out of the steering knuckle/hub, but that you should leave the nut on and flush with the top of the stud when doing so to protect the stud. Failure to do this resulted in a slightly mushroomed stud that I had to dremel off a few turns of thread to get the nut on to re-install.
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Jul 14, 2009 04:28
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SlapActionJackson posted:FWIW, TIS says specifically to NOT use an impact wrench to remove or install the nut at the top of the strut. ...You realize you just corrected me for using an unapproved method to tighten a nut, then promptly recommended an unapproved procedure to break a ball-joint free. I'm not saying your way doesn't work, I'm just pointing out the fact that while BMW instructions are nice to have, they're hardly the only way to do things. I'm sure someone could be completely retarded and destroy a strut with an impact, but it's a very, very common procedure.
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Jul 14, 2009 05:04
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So, my neighbor used my e39 as a rubbing post a month or two back, the net result of which was a new front bumper courtesy of state farm. This weekend I drove from DC to Myrtle Beach and back (~1000 miles). On the way back just after I cleared Richmond VA, I pulled off for gas and noticed a wierd scratching sound. Then I noticed one of the little panels that sites below the bumper in front of the driver's side wheel was hanging off and scraping on the ground. From the looks of said panel it had been rubbing for quite a ways. The passenger-side one was loose as well. I suspect the shop just didn't quite install the panels correctly when reattaching the bumper as they seem like they should have been above the lip of the bumper rather than hanging loose. Can anyone confirm this? (I tried to get pictures, but the way our parking lot is setup it is drat near impossible to get a good angle).
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Jul 14, 2009 13:50
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peterjmatt posted:...You realize you just corrected me for using an unapproved method to tighten a nut, then promptly recommended an unapproved procedure to break a ball-joint free. I don't always do things by the book either, just pointing it out. And my ball-joint removal procedure is pretty close to the recommended method - the special tool called for is basically a scissoring pitman arm puller that mates specifically with the hex key in the top of the stud. I would not use a pickle fork to remove either ball joint.
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Jul 14, 2009 15:15
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wwb posted:...the little panels that sites below the bumper in front of the driver's side wheel was hanging off and scraping on the ground....should have been above the lip of the bumper rather than hanging loose. Can anyone confirm this? Yes, that part should not be dangling off the car. The shop that did the work should replace the piece that was dragging if it's damaged and secure them correctly. I'm guessing that these are the "porkchops" on either side of the undertray, in front of the wheel wells.
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Jul 14, 2009 20:14
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I think my battery is needing replacement but I really don't know. It's been cutting out randomly. Sometimes it happens when I turn my headlights or brights on. Everything electric will cut out for a split second and my engine drops some rpms but then goes back to normal. Sometimes after I turn off my car, all power is lost for a short duration, and I can't start my car at all. Seems opening and closing the door fixed this one time. So what do you guys think? '93 325is. If I do need a new battery, what are the things I need to know before I go shop for one?
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Jul 14, 2009 20:49
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Loco posted:I think my battery is needing replacement but I really don't know. It's been cutting out randomly. Sometimes it happens when I turn my headlights or brights on. Everything electric will cut out for a split second and my engine drops some rpms but then goes back to normal. Sometimes after I turn off my car, all power is lost for a short duration, and I can't start my car at all. Seems opening and closing the door fixed this one time. So what do you guys think? '93 325is. Check and clean all connections to and from the battery first. A bad ground frequently causes problems like you're describing.
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Jul 14, 2009 21:05
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I drive an '01 740il with the sport package. I've noticed the rear wheels have a bit of camber to them - nothing ridiculous, but it's visible standing directly behind the car. Is this common, or am I looking at suspension tweaks?
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