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Tatrakrad posted:What? No! I actually traded a Forester in on my outgoing WRX. No worries, I always go back and forth between Subaru's and Toyota's, so that means my next car will indeed be a Subaru!
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Jul 13, 2009 01:54
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Well I think I've got something a little different. Sure it's not as powerful as a WRX, but a 655c motor is big enough. 1986 Subaru Sherpa, 170k, $900AUD, the only problem it had was some overheating and I got a new radiator for $80. It's got a pretty decent space in the back for it's size, and my favourite part: it does about 50mpg. 
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Jul 13, 2009 03:50
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beastathon posted:Well I think I've got something a little different. Sure it's not as powerful as a WRX, but a 655c motor is big enough. Holy poo poo. My dad bought one of these new in '86 or so (or somewhere thereabout), and it went through him driving it through grad school, my aunt driving it while being an early 20s dropout, and then to my uncle, until about 2002 or 2003 or so, when a spare tire from some banger SUV rammed through its windshield on the freeway. That car went through nearly two decades without any problems. I really, really miss that car. 
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Jul 13, 2009 18:23
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RealKyleH posted:The aftermarket header I have has a couple of O2 sensor holes is I was thinking it might behoove me to do a DIY wideband setup. It's generally recommended to have your wideband sensor about 1m from the closest exhaust valve to prevent diminished life due to the heat of the exhaust gases. You can locate it closer if you use a longer bung, or a nut welded on top of a standard bung. It'd suck to have to replace a $45 sensor every couple months. Still, some people run them right in the primary o2 sensor spot without frying or any other problems, so take that as you may.
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Jul 13, 2009 19:19
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greasy digits posted:It's generally recommended to have your wideband sensor about 1m from the closest exhaust valve to prevent diminished life due to the heat of the exhaust gases. You can locate it closer if you use a longer bung, or a nut welded on top of a standard bung. It'd suck to have to replace a $45 sensor every couple months. Still, some people run them right in the primary o2 sensor spot without frying or any other problems, so take that as you may. Is a wideband at the beginning of the DP going to give accurate readings? I have a bung already on my DP that's currently plugged with an O2 sensor, but i'd like to go wideband. Am I wasting my time with it there?
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Jul 13, 2009 19:30
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greasy digits posted:It's generally recommended to have your wideband sensor about 1m from the closest exhaust valve to prevent diminished life due to the heat of the exhaust gases. You can locate it closer if you use a longer bung, or a nut welded on top of a standard bung. It'd suck to have to replace a $45 sensor every couple months. Still, some people run them right in the primary o2 sensor spot without frying or any other problems, so take that as you may. There's one at the end of the cross pipe so that shouldn't be an issue.
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Jul 13, 2009 19:37
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Guys, what is the opinion on higher mileage subarus? I need to rid myself of my gas-hog SUV very shortly. Looking around, I found a 2002 Impreza Outback wagon. It's only 4g's, but it has 130k on it. http://tinyurl.com/lhqodc What should I be looking for and asking about when checking out this ride?
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Jul 13, 2009 20:11
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Dreadite posted:Guys, what is the opinion on higher mileage subarus? https://www.subaru.com/my-subaru/maintenance-schedule2002.html Ask about the timing service - has it been done? If not, it is overdue (scheduled for 105,000). Check that link (scroll down for PDF of service schedule) for other things to look for.
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Jul 13, 2009 20:24
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For anyone considering a CBE for their 08 or 09 WRX the SPT 4 door one sounds great. I didn't get the $300 special they were once going for but did get one for $600. It definitely unleashes the boxer rumble and it's loud, but not too loud. Drone is almost non-existent on the freeway. The two mufflers are just the right size and are not to big, I also like that they kept the dual setup and didn't go for a single outlet CBE (at least for the 4 door).
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Jul 13, 2009 21:22
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beastathon posted:Well I think I've got something a little different. Sure it's not as powerful as a WRX, but a 655c motor is big enough. There's still a Sherpa on the road?. I used to drive one years ago as an office runabout. Sorry to be a h0rrible jerk, but the Sherpa is one FOUL piece of poo poo - That's one Subaru you couldnt pay me to drive. Runs on the smell of an oily rag is true... but gently caress me drunk, what an appalling handling car with the most ridiculous brakes, foul gearbox and gutless motor. Good thing the first Liberty RS was just around the corner and Subaru leaned how to make good cars. Still, would be amusing to do a back to back test vs a WRX.
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Jul 14, 2009 01:26
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It's good to have my outback back.  Clean fuel injector, brand spanking new radiator, and it's running like a champ after driving from Philly to Boston. I'm sorry for ever doubting you, dyke wagon.
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Jul 14, 2009 01:27
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I have an 08 Legacy Sedan (non-turbo) that is going to need new tires soon. Getting replacement OEM Yokohama's is going to cost me way more than i want to spend. I was thinking about these in 215/45-17 (OEM is 205/50-17). Are they as good as the ratings show? I'm looking for all-seasons. Any suggestions? edit: 215's will still fit on the wheel right? edit2: does anyone have any experience with these? Alpine Mustache fucked around with this message at 02:30 on Jul 14, 2009 |
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Jul 14, 2009 02:12
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There is no other choice for an all season tire than the Bridgestone Potenza RE960as. Nothing else compares for the price.
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Jul 14, 2009 04:33
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bull3964 posted:There is no other choice for an all season tire than the Bridgestone Potenza RE960as. Nothing else compares for the price. Second. I've got them on my Legacy GT, and they're top notch. No all-seasons come close for the price.
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Jul 14, 2009 04:42
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Bud Manstrong posted:Second. I've got them on my Legacy GT, and they're top notch. No all-seasons come close for the price. They are a bit more than i wanted to spend, but i am considering them. i'm guessing 215/45-17? they don't seem to make 205/50's
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Jul 14, 2009 05:14
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I finally got my car together (as talked about earlier in this thread). There turned out to be a developing leak in the lower copper coolant hardline on the Forced Performance HTA68 turbo I was using. By the time I had put 200 miles on the engine the leak was literally like a solid stream shooting out. I'm wondering if anyone else has had problems like this with FP products. I gave FP a call and told them what was the problem, they said the only solution was to have me buy a rebuild kit for the turbo but upon further explanation and prodding the guy on the phone offered to see if they had a spare one in their repair department. They found one and shipped it off to me but gently caress this car is giving me a serious case of blueballs. :| I was actually a bit of a dick to them on the phone but they were really cool with me and I did feel bad and apologise for being volatile at the end of our conversation, I appreciated it that he sent it to me entirely for free with no expectation of a return part but I will return it because it'd be nice if this didn't happen to other people.
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Jul 14, 2009 05:46
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Falken 912s are another good, cheap all-season. I'm on set #2 and they've performed well everywhere. 215/45-17 is the size you want."[ELP posted:"] I was under the impression that they had fixed that issue with a better fitting hard line.
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Jul 14, 2009 06:23
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Dreadite posted:Guys, what is the opinion on higher mileage subarus? Andecdotal, but I have a 2002 Impreza with around 115k on it. It sounds like a tractor and the suspension is all worn out but its been amazingly trouble free. I kind of feel bad because all I've done is change the oil and abuse the hell out of it and it just happily takes it. I'd say it has aged gracefully, but its definitely ready for an overhaul in some areas. Issues so far: - Headgaskets dribble a little coolant externally once in a while - The dash clock went out and I had to re-solder it - An air conditioner belt pulley killed itself - Timing belt and water pump was changed (I did this myself in two hours and I work like James May)
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Jul 14, 2009 12:17
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Ok, the guy I sold the car to finally picked it up yesterday. We had to drive to get some papers signed before he took the car, so I let him drive, seeing how it was his car... now I see why the gearboxes in WRXs can be problematic for some people. First off, he sat at the light with the car in gear with the clutch pedal down the the floor at every stop. I was thinking about that poor throwout bearing the whole time. He also downshifted to slow the car down when approaching lights and stops without rev matching. He'd basically just drop it into the next gear and pop the clutch.  My poor car had never seen that kind of abuse before. He also slipped the clutch really bad at take off as well. Ok, my last post about my outgoing car.
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Jul 14, 2009 17:21
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He's just getting used to it. I slipped the crap out of the clutch on my test drive because I wasn't sure where the engagement point was. I also fired the car forward a couple of times before I figured out how to let the clutch out properly - used to my super light baby clutch and numb throttle. I figured it would be like the NA Subarus, but the clutch is super heavy compared to them. I also downshifted with too much revving since I wasn't used to how sensitive the throttle was. Near the end of the testdrive (about 30-35 minutes in) I was doing quite well, though, and I did put it in neutral coming up to lights instead of just dumping the clutch when I stopped. I'm sure he'll figure it out. Seat Safety Switch fucked around with this message at 06:25 on Jul 15, 2009 |
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Jul 15, 2009 06:21
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any New England Subaru folks with nothing to do this weekend? One of the teams in New England Forest Rally had some of their crew bail. They're looking for people to drive the parts van around during the rally. Even one day would help them out. Otherwise they'd have to crew themselves which would suck. I would do it except the wedding I have to go to. ------------------ NO EXPERIENCE NEEDED! This is a great opportunity to see rally from the inside. If you have ever considered driving or co-driving this is a great place to check it out. Our team is RTI Motorsports (Somerset Subaru Team) We have done this rally a number of times. Car is an open class Subaru Impreza STI RED Last year we came in 3rd overall in regional. We are seeded 14th (ish). We need someone to drive around the van and set up service spots (we will show you how). At this late notice we are not looking for anyone with tons of experience but it would be nice. I check my email throughout the day: travelchute yahoo.com ------------------- I imagine they'd spring for your food, etc. You would get licensed day of as team crew and all that jazz.
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Jul 15, 2009 17:16
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kimbo305 posted:any New England Subaru folks with nothing to do this weekend? One of the teams in New England Forest Rally had some of their crew bail. They're looking for people to drive the parts van around during the rally. Even one day would help them out. Otherwise they'd have to crew themselves which would suck. I would do it except the wedding I have to go to. Somebody do this if you get a chance. I've done this with the CPD Racing team and it's a blast. Forget about getting any sleep however.
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Jul 15, 2009 22:14
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grzydj posted:Forget about getting any sleep however. also you won't get to spectate much, since they really need you to be on the ball at all times. Though you will get up close with all the rally cars at service.
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Jul 15, 2009 22:20
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kimbo305 posted:any New England Subaru folks with nothing to do this weekend? One of the teams in New England Forest Rally had some of their crew bail. They're looking for people to drive the parts van around during the rally. Even one day would help them out. Otherwise they'd have to crew themselves which would suck. I would do it except the wedding I have to go to. Didn't expect to see this on SA. Just read it on my local car forum. Rally's gonna be sick, Sis and I are going to spectate some of it. Wish I could pull off helping them out.
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Jul 16, 2009 00:50
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I'm hopefully going to be looking at a 2001 Legacy GT Limited this weekend. Its a 5spd and their asking 5250 for it. They haven't replaced the timing belt and it sounds like there might be some quirks with getting into reverse which I'm assuming is likely the linkage going bad? Anything I should look at with this car? It doesn't sound like they've done much to it besides change the oil and they're the 3rd owner. If I offered them what their asking minus the cost for the timing belt change would that be reasonable for the car?
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Jul 16, 2009 02:28
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Got the WRX back with a new longblock and now i have to take it easy for the next 1000 miles for break in. Subaru gave me a 100k mile extended warranty as a goodwill gesture.
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Jul 16, 2009 02:49
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Raymn posted:I'm hopefully going to be looking at a 2001 Legacy GT Limited this weekend. Its a 5spd and their asking 5250 for it. They haven't replaced the timing belt and it sounds like there might be some quirks with getting into reverse which I'm assuming is likely the linkage going bad? Anything I should look at with this car? It doesn't sound like they've done much to it besides change the oil and they're the 3rd owner. If I offered them what their asking minus the cost for the timing belt change would that be reasonable for the car?
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Jul 16, 2009 06:38
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bung posted:Got the WRX back with a new longblock and now i have to take it easy for the next 1000 miles for break in. Subaru gave me a 100k mile extended warranty as a goodwill gesture. That's good to hear. It's not as much about making a product that never fails as much as it is properly dealing with a failure if it occurs, and it seems subaru has done the latter.
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Jul 16, 2009 06:41
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nm posted:If it is anything like a 2005 LGT 5-spd transmission, reverse is always a bitch. Reverse is a bitch on most manual cars I've owned, regardless if they were Subaru or not.
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Jul 16, 2009 14:37
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TurboLuvah posted:Reverse is a bitch on most manual cars I've owned, regardless if they were Subaru or not. Perhaps but I often cant shift into reverse at all without letting out the clutch and depressing it again.
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Jul 16, 2009 15:25
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RealKyleH posted:Perhaps but I often cant shift into reverse at all without letting out the clutch and depressing it again. I'm not sure, but IIRC reverse usually doesn't have any synchros, so this is why releasing the clutch and clutching in again works.
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Jul 16, 2009 16:08
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Pretty sure all subarus, and most manual trannies have straight cut, non-synchroed reverse.
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Jul 16, 2009 19:15
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dayman posted:Pretty sure all subarus, and most manual trannies have straight cut, non-synchroed reverse. I'd believe it the gears are noisy as gently caress in reverse too which straight cut gears tend to be.
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Jul 16, 2009 19:32
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TurboLuvah posted:Reverse is a bitch on most manual cars I've owned, regardless if they were Subaru or not. Rx-8 Audi A4 (which I think had a synchroed reverse) Actually, they're more of a bitch than the 4-speed in my brother's 1973 Z. But only the reverse. TurboLuvah posted:I'm not sure, but IIRC reverse usually doesn't have any synchros, so this is why releasing the clutch and clutching in again works.
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Jul 16, 2009 19:59
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To get my 5speed in reverse if it's being stubborn I shift into first to jog things around then try reverse again, works 90% of the time. And I tell myself it's easier on the throwout bearing and other clutch mechanisms.
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Jul 16, 2009 20:50
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PabloBOOM posted:To get my 5speed in reverse if it's being stubborn I shift into first to jog things around then try reverse again, works 90% of the time. And I tell myself it's easier on the throwout bearing and other clutch mechanisms. Like this guy said. My reverse is a bitch as usual, and I just pop it into first, rock the car forward a bit, then throw it in reverse and I'm golden. Mines an 02RS, my buddy's got an 07RS and his is the same way.
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Jul 17, 2009 05:14
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In a similar vein I'm also looking at a 5-speed Legacy, this one happens to be a 1997 L model with spoiler  I drove it and had it checked out by a mechanic, and after talking with the salesguy we settled on $3500 for the price. Is this too much, and should I try to push it down further? After all, there is a big dent on the rear passenger door, plus minor things to fix like the a/c and rear struts...For $3500 I probably should make the dealer fix some of this before I buy it right?
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Jul 17, 2009 05:48
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I've got a problem with my '07 Forester XT with 37k miles. I noticed this morning driving to work that my car was hesitating during acceleration, right around where the turbo normally kicks in. It was much worse in the middle of the day when it was around 100 degrees outside. Driving home just now when it was cool it seemed to be ok. It basically feels normal, then once it hits 3k rpm it starts getting jerky then evens out. It doesn't feel like it has much power above 3k rpm either. Recent things that happened that might have contributed: I changed my oil on Sunday. Replaced with the same type of oil and filter. I checked the oil today and the level was fine. On Saturday, I ran my car really low on gas. I'm not sure how close I came to empty but I drove for maybe 20-25miles after the light came on. Maybe I clogged my fuel filter? I've read that hesitation under acceleration could be due to running lean. This can damage the engine right? I can't get to a mechanic right away since I'm swamped at work so should I just take it real easy when driving or should I consider getting a rental for the next few days?
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Jul 17, 2009 06:05
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could just be that it's really hot and pulling timing. Do you get 93 octane where you live or are you stuck with 91? I would check all the vacuum and pcv lines to make sure nothing is loose and reset the ecu. jamal fucked around with this message at 07:57 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 07:54
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Yeah I can only get 91. Thanks for the suggestion, I'll check tomorrow and pay more attention to how the car is behaving. Boxbot fucked around with this message at 09:29 on Jul 17, 2009 |
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Jul 17, 2009 09:26
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