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EvilMuppet posted:This is probably a longshot but does anyone know how to fix a noisy fridge? It vibrates a lot and sounds like a drat mac truck. I have no idea where to start and can't afford a pro to look at it. I don't even know how to describe the noise properly or what other information to provide. Well it depends on what kind of noise it makes and where it's coming from. It could be anything from a bad part to a loose mount. Maybe you could pull the fridge out and see where the noise is coming from?
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Jul 15, 2009 18:46
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Blowupologist posted:Well it depends on what kind of noise it makes and where it's coming from. It could be anything from a bad part to a loose mount. Maybe you could pull the fridge out and see where the noise is coming from? Yup, slide that sucker out and leave the door open long enough to kick the compressor on. It's most likely a loose part if it's rattling. If it's squealing, it's either a bearing that needs lubed, or a bearing that's failing. Take your vacuum cleaner and suck all the dust out of there, too--you'll make the cooling more efficient and save money. Usually it's the vibrations from the compressor motor running through the frame and making a loose grille rattle.
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Jul 15, 2009 19:38
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I broke one of the clip fastening buckles on my cycling shoes, and I'm interested in rebuilding it (as opposed to spending far too much on a new pair of shoes.) The part where the screw goes through kind of broke, and I'm thinking I can rebuild it with some sort of epoxy. Question: What sort of epoxy/other compound would be best to do this? It just needs to be held in place, and bear a little bit of lateral pressure.  View of the broken bit  Clearer view of the type of plastic
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Jul 16, 2009 13:27
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Gibbo posted:Question: What sort of epoxy/other compound would be best to do this? It just needs to be held in place, and bear a little bit of lateral pressure. I have literally used this stuff for 100 different things.
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Jul 16, 2009 13:51
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Gibbo posted:I broke one of the clip fastening buckles on my cycling shoes, and I'm interested in rebuilding it (as opposed to spending far too much on a new pair of shoes.) If you can, use macro mode on your camera to take better close-up pictures. As far as what kind of epoxy to use, I would honestly try superglue. Superglue is designed for thin gaps like what you have here, and as long as the surface is clean would probably do a good job of adhering.
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Jul 16, 2009 21:14
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I need to make an air cannon that can be fired underwater. What kind of valve should I use for this? Is there a way to do it with a sprinkler valve like regular land based potato gun style cannons? It's pretty important that it doesn't fire off randomly.
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Jul 17, 2009 01:59
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ease posted:I need to make an air cannon that can be fired underwater. What kind of valve should I use for this? Is there a way to do it with a sprinkler valve like regular land based potato gun style cannons? It's pretty important that it doesn't fire off randomly. I feel like there is no way to do this without deafening everything around you and possibly flat-out killing some more fragile underwater critters. I could be wrong on this, though.
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Jul 17, 2009 02:59
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ease posted:I need to make an air cannon that can be fired underwater. What kind of valve should I use for this? Is there a way to do it with a sprinkler valve like regular land based potato gun style cannons? It's pretty important that it doesn't fire off randomly. If you use environmental (waterproof) splices, switch, and battery box, then the normal electric sprinkler valves should work fine submerged.
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Jul 17, 2009 06:18
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Today I was enjoying both a book and burning off the top layer of my meat coat, when suddenly my book fell to pieces. I was wondering if anyone had luck rebinding their books with silicon adhesives like goop? Will it work for this application or do I need to go get plastic glue?
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Jul 17, 2009 07:41
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TheKub posted:Today I was enjoying both a book and burning off the top layer of my meat coat, when suddenly my book fell to pieces. I was wondering if anyone had luck rebinding their books with silicon adhesives like goop? Will it work for this application or do I need to go get plastic glue? why did you leap straight to silicon & plastic? Books are made of paper & paper variants, and would benefit more from cellulose based glues. Try the book binding thread for a proper repair method: http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3140637
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Jul 17, 2009 13:54
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ease posted:I need to make an air cannon that can be fired underwater. What kind of valve should I use for this? Is there a way to do it with a sprinkler valve like regular land based potato gun style cannons? It's pretty important that it doesn't fire off randomly. I think you need to go into more detail here. Water is a pain in the butt to shoot a projectile through, and you may find that what you expect to happen is completely different from what will actually occur.
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Jul 17, 2009 16:05
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Cakefool posted:why did you leap straight to silicon & plastic? Books are made of paper & paper variants, and would benefit more from cellulose based glues. Try the book binding thread for a proper repair method: I know it might come as a surprise, but I actually did a bit of googling before I asked this question. Pretty much all of the results recommend using Plastic or PVA (based) glues. I chose to ask about silicon glue because I have a tube of it sitting right here.
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Jul 17, 2009 17:43
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Okay, what glue is it, how has the book fallen apart?
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Jul 17, 2009 18:58
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Blowupologist posted:I think you need to go into more detail here. Water is a pain in the butt to shoot a projectile through, and you may find that what you expect to happen is completely different from what will actually occur. Going to make a pneumatic spear gun that shoots a 4' steel bolt. They are commercially available, and I don't think they have much PSI compared to what you could actually make. Looking at spud gun designs, people use regular mechanical ball valves for the pneumatic type. I guess that's what I'll try first since it seems the easiest and most fail safe.
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Jul 17, 2009 19:37
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ease posted:Going to make a pneumatic spear gun that shoots a 4' steel bolt. They are commercially available, and I don't think they have much PSI compared to what you could actually make. Looking at spud gun designs, people use regular mechanical ball valves for the pneumatic type. I guess that's what I'll try first since it seems the easiest and most fail safe. Are you trying to propel the bolt directly with Air? Would it be possible to fire a single acting pneumatic cylinder, the shaft of which propels the bolt instead?
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Jul 17, 2009 21:21
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Looking for a quick/easy answer (hopefully that's all it takes). I am getting ready to install a tile entryway in my house. The entryway is part of the living room, which currently has wall-to-wall carpet. I was planning on cutting the carpet out in a specific size (3' x 21'). What I would like to know is, do I need to have some kind of border around the tile in order to make sure it is grouted correctly? I do not care about the carpet, as once we finish the tile job, we are getting a new one installed. We are using unsanded grout with ceramic tile (with a bit of a polished stone finish to it) Any help is greatly appreciated!
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Jul 17, 2009 23:56
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Normally you wouldn't grout the outer edge of the tile. The new carpet, when installed, will be tucked under and tacked/glued to butt up against the perimeter of the tile. Just make sure you get your grout all the way to the edge in the perpendicular lines.
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Jul 18, 2009 01:51
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Thanks for the response! Planning on taking care of this in the morning.
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Jul 18, 2009 04:06
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Is there a specific name for the type of wire I'm looking for? It has a single metal or nylon core and then a much thinner wire wrapped around it cylindrically, similar to a guitar string I suppose. I want to buy a long length of it from a hardware shop (10m or so) rather than a load of bass guitar strings!
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Jul 18, 2009 12:31
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I'm working on a hot tub and the pump works, but the heater doesn't. It's vintage '87. The model is ASI Class Act and it's about the simplest system on the market. I've already replaced the heater coil, because I can turn the thermostat up and the "heater on" light comes on, but it doesn't heat. There's voltage (220) across the heater, so I don't know whats going on. I'm going to check the pressure switch to make sure it hasn't gone bad right now, but I'm almost ready to hire someone to fix this thing and be done with it.
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Jul 19, 2009 21:59
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If there is voltage going through the heater, than it probably is working. Keep it on and keep checking to make sure it stays on so you can be sure it's not the controls. Hot tubs take all day to get warm, and because the cold water is circulating past that heater, it might not feel hot.
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Jul 20, 2009 13:14
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See if you can measure the current draw. If there's a few amps, everything's fine.
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Jul 20, 2009 21:30
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Yeah, The heater is working now, but it is triggering the High-Limit reset switch on the control unit. It'll run for just long enough for me to walk away, and be off when I come back. Time for more debugging. edit: it looks like a low-flow situation. It will run for hours on high-pump, but it trips on low-pump. I'll replace the filter, but I don't really have any other tricks. edit2: I guess I can open the pump to make sure the impeller is in good shape too. Vaporware fucked around with this message at 13:40 on Jul 21, 2009 |
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Jul 21, 2009 13:03
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Cakefool posted:Are you trying to propel the bolt directly with Air? Would it be possible to fire a single acting pneumatic cylinder, the shaft of which propels the bolt instead? As far as the valve and electronics is concerned I've learned how to modify a sprinkler valve to work with a blow gun trigger by removing the solenoid, plugging it and replacing the bleed screw with a valve so no worrying about water proof connections. Going to be free diving with it to depths of about 30' so the less chance of something breaking under pressure the better.
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Jul 21, 2009 19:47
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Quick question: I have a rasterbation mounted on a 34"x22", 3/16" thick piece of hardboard, and have no idea how to mount it on my wall. I tried putting a nail through the corner, but it splintered. Would mirror brackets work? What's the best way to mount a piece of thin wood on a wall?
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Jul 22, 2009 22:38
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Dominoes posted:Quick question: I have a rasterbation mounted on a 34"x22", 3/16" thick piece of hardboard, and have no idea how to mount it on my wall. I tried putting a nail through the corner, but it splintered. Would mirror brackets work? What's the best way to mount a piece of thin wood on a wall? Double stick tape would work. The kind that is 1/8 inch foam. For a more professional mount, you could epoxy a piece of braided wire in two places near the edge, about 1/3 of the way down. When the epoxy sets, you put a nail in the wall, then hang the wire on the nail and adjust until it hangs straight.
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Jul 22, 2009 23:45
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What kind of flooring would you put in a (dry) basement living space? Some sources say you should never put carpet down because of the mold/mildew possibility, or real hardwood because of the potential to warp, and a lot of flooring types are not even rated for below-grade installation. At this point I don't even know where to begin. Any suggestions?
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Jul 23, 2009 21:16
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My neighbor laid carpet right on cement, no issues yet, runs a dehumidifier to control moisture. They used some thick padding. I'm told the right way to do it is that you want to lay a vapor barrier, and then build a plywood floor, like by laying 2x4's on their side arranged like floor joists. Plywood goes on top of that, and you will have a nice solid dry floor. I'd personally just level and paint the floors, and use area rugs.
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Jul 23, 2009 21:30
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LoreOfSerpents posted:What kind of flooring would you put in a (dry) basement living space? You could always install tile. How flat is it? You could also just paint the concrete with an epoxy. Epoxies are tougher than regular paint and can stand up to wear better.
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Jul 23, 2009 22:42
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ease posted:My neighbor laid carpet right on cement, no issues yet, runs a dehumidifier to control moisture. They used some thick padding. kid sinister posted:You could always install tile. How flat is it? You could also just paint the concrete with an epoxy. Epoxies are tougher than regular paint and can stand up to wear better. Thanks for the suggestions, both of you.  I like the look of dyed concrete, but I'm not sure I would enjoy seeing the cracks as they form over time. Tile will most likely go down in the bathroom and the laundry room, but I hadn't thought of using it for the family room.
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Jul 23, 2009 23:15
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I've got an old 900mhz (socket 462) Duron PC with a Radeon 7500 AGP card and a 150W PSU that I've just finished repairing. From what I can gather from the mobo specs (hard to find, it's a older Compaq uWave series) I CAN upgrade to at least as much as a 1.3Ghz Athlon* and was considering a CPU upgrade for about $20. I was thinking about a 1.1GHz Duron. I know it's not a huge increase in speed, but I think I'd see a big enough improvement to make it worthwhile. However, with the small PSU, what would the maximum size of CPU you think I could go in with? (*The PC Model that the mobo originally came from used a 1.3GHz Athlon, so that's where that number comes from.)
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Jul 23, 2009 23:52
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LoreOfSerpents posted:Yeah, that's how it is normally done in this area. We run a dehumidifier throughout the summer regardless of the flooring. Carpeting is so ridiculously common in basements here that I was surprised about the mold/mildew caution. Epoxy is probably the way to go, especially if you're starting from scratch. They make some incredible products out there - get a professional installation and it will last virtually forever.
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Jul 24, 2009 00:25
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LoreOfSerpents posted:What kind of flooring would you put in a (dry) basement living space? I'm redoing my basement at the moment, and ripped out the carpeting that the previous owners had. I know the carpet was there for years and the basement got flooded from heavy rains a couple of times. When I ripped it up, there wasn't any mold or mildew. As for the new floor, my wife is deciding between hardwood flooring or resilient flooring. If we go the hardwood route, then I'll be putting down dricore (http://www.dricore.com) first and the wood floor over that. Dricore is available at Home Depot and Lowes. Resilient flooring is vinyl, but can look like anything (we're looking at some that looks almost exactly like wood). It is a floating floor (you don't glue it down) and comes in strips (like a wood floor) that stick together. We're also considering tile. It depends on whatever HGTV home remodeling show my wife watched that day...
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Jul 24, 2009 01:03
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Vaporware posted:edit2: I guess I can open the pump to make sure the impeller is in good shape too. Yeah, it's going to be this. It trips even without a filter. The impeller is probably in terrible shape. The lovely part is that it's so old there aren't any replacement impellers I can find. Can I just stick a new wet end on the 1.5 hp motor? It's a jacuzzi centrifugal pump, offset discharge.
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Jul 24, 2009 02:22
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LoreOfSerpents posted:I'm jumping the gun a bit in that the floor doesn't get poured until the beginning of next week. If the floor hasn't been poured yet, then you still have lots of options! First off, they can always do a powdered coating on tap that they can tamp into the concrete. They can also lay down forms and tamp in different patterns, like for the appearance of large tiles. FYI: there are LOTS of options for floor tiles. Something to keep in mind: the larger the tile, the flatter your floor has to be. If you want anything super huge like square yard tiles, you'll need a VERY flat floor. They make floor fillers to help level out the surface after the concrete dries if need be. Oh crap, forgot, there's always linoleum! That stuff comes in all kinds of crazy patterns now, including a few that do a drat good impression of tile, down to the sunken "grout" lines.
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Jul 24, 2009 02:34
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Thanks for the many ideas! I had no idea epoxy was so versatile. Wouldn't an epoxy coating prevent concrete from breathing, though? My husband isn't sold on the idea of just putting something on the concrete since winter temperatures frequently stay below 0 degrees F here. I'm not a big fan of floor heating systems, so I guess concrete treatments will have to wait until we're ready to pour a new slab for the garage. emanonii posted:If we go the hardwood route, then I'll be putting down dricore I didn't even know subfloor solutions like that existed! Thank you for mentioning this, because I had worried about losing height in the basement from building a normal subfloor. It looks like we will be putting down tile in the bathroom and trying cork (on top of something like DRIcore) in the family room. The utility room will stay bare concrete, and I'll figure out something to do with the floor back there when no one's looking.
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Jul 25, 2009 17:02
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I have a question about my drinking water. I have white floaties that come out of my water whenever I freeze it or ice cubes and the ice thaws again. I ran it through a brita water filter and then made ice cubes out of it and I got the same thing. Is this coming from my water softener? I tried to bypass it and see if it did the same thing but I don't think I left it bypassed long enough to flush it out and had similar results. I'm pretty sure it's safe to drink or else I'd be dead by now but man is it ugly. I'd upload a picture but I can't get a good one of it and it's just what you'd imagine when I say white floaties.
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Jul 26, 2009 23:53
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A couple of the wiggly-S springs inside my sofa have snapped (serpentine springs or whatever they're called - they zig-zag from side to side and hold the seat cushions up). They don't seem to be sold in places like Home Depot and I haven't found anywhere else I can buy them except mail order in 50 foot rolls. Does anyone know a reasonable source for these? Failing that, could I weld them somehow (bearing in mind I have absolutely no welding experience or tools)? (I've wondered, in fact, if the cheapest thing to do would be cruise around looking for a dumped sofa and cut some springs out of that if they're the right size).
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Jul 27, 2009 01:10
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Belt posted:white wigglies I had something similar in a really hard water area. How old is your filter, as they become less effective over time. Also, try running it through 2 filters, i.e. out of 1 jug into the second. If that doesn't sort it, try filtering your water through a coffee filter. Hobnob posted:A couple of the wiggly-S springs inside my sofa have snapped (serpentine springs or whatever they're called - they zig-zag from side to side and hold the seat cushions up). They don't seem to be sold in places like Home Depot and I haven't found anywhere else I can buy them except mail order in 50 foot rolls. Rob springs from a donor, welding springy steel doesn't work well.
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Jul 27, 2009 20:07
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Would there be any long-term concerns if I intentionally set my whole-house water pressure LOWER than normal?
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Jul 27, 2009 21:10
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