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Awwwww  Just found out center stand and performance exhaust system can not coexist.  Do I install the stock system again or just stick with the side stand and a cheap rear stand? Of course I found this out trying to install the stand, after ordering it from some dude in canada.
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Jul 15, 2009 02:12
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Noooooooooooooooo  Dropped the bike in the process of installing the center stand. The loving aluminum HF rear stand gave out and timber she went I dont know what the gently caress to do now. Cant see any damage beyond some smudges on the paint since a massive rubbermaid cooler broke the bikes fall. The HF stand is hosed, my rear suspension is completely bottomed from the stage where you undo the shock bolt. And of course no side stand right now. Thank god those ebay sliders cam in today cause that is what is holding the bike upright at the moment using some jack stands. gently caress
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Jul 15, 2009 02:55
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Well, I guess I know not to buy HF stands in the future.  Do you have exposed rafters in your garage? Chuck a rope/strap over one or two, and use those to hold your bike upright while you reinstall the side stand (or the center stand, for that matter).
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Jul 15, 2009 03:15
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Which HF stand was it?
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Jul 15, 2009 05:30
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Z3n posted:Which HF stand was it? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99701 Managed to get the bike back up with the bent and mangled stand for the 30 minutes or so to install the stuff. Ugh
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Jul 15, 2009 05:47
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dietcokefiend posted:http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=99701 gently caress, those were supposed to be the nice ones Could you take a picture of where it failed?
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Jul 15, 2009 07:04
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Z3n posted:gently caress, those were supposed to be the nice ones Got some pictures of it, but it was basically everywhere. Instead of say looking like a nice H, it started looking like a slanted H, then as it bent over far enough one of the "hooks" that go into the spool bent over and down she went. The towers just have enough flex where if it starts going one direction it cant hold it back. On the plus side I was kneeling in my garage on the other side of the bike. If it would have come over on my the engine/handbar side would have crushed my face. So I guess I came out alright. So far the only damage to the bike is some scratches on the clutch cover near the filler cap. Other than that the entire bike seems to be fine. That massive cooler I got to use as luggage took the brunt. Handlebar hit the top cover and just bent it apart slowing the fall. My exhaust would probably be hosed right now if I didnt remove it first. Oh and some slightly good news. After the entire center stand setup was installed, there is JUST enough room to mount the Jardine exhaust again. Probably 1-2mm clearance around the front rear shock bolt. EDIT: Slightly surprised by the weld quality on the stand. Oddly enough the thing only bent and twisted as it went over. I was half expecting it to just crack and drop. dietcokefiend fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Jul 15, 2009 |
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Jul 15, 2009 15:03
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Bummer. I wonder if there is a batch of bad stands or you just got one bad one. What made you decide to put the Jardine back on?
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Jul 15, 2009 16:37
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jdonz posted:Bummer. I wonder if there is a batch of bad stands or you just got one bad one. IT is still mostly assemblied and I just wanted to make sure it hadnt been smushed since it was laying on the ground under the bike when it tipped over. Testing fitting it I realized it was going to clear still.
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Jul 15, 2009 16:56
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dietcokefiend posted:IT is still mostly assemblied and I just wanted to make sure it hadnt been smushed since it was laying on the ground under the bike when it tipped over. Testing fitting it I realized it was going to clear still. Sorry, I wasn't clear. Didn't you put the stock exhaust back on when you got it? I was under the impression you didn't like the sound the Jardine made, which is why I was asking why you put the Jardine back on.
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Jul 15, 2009 17:39
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jdonz posted:Sorry, I wasn't clear. Didn't you put the stock exhaust back on when you got it? I was under the impression you didn't like the sound the Jardine made, which is why I was asking why you put the Jardine back on. The stock system retained a hell of a lot more heat and would make my leg feel like it was burning and sweat like crazy.
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Jul 15, 2009 17:53
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I'm getting ready to replace my chain and I could use a little help choosing one. BikeBandit.com shows chains from RK, EK, BikeMaster, Tsubaki and Regina. I don't have a clue as to what brand is reputable, can anyone make a recommendation? Do I want an o-ring or and x-ring? The current (original) chain I have is a D.I.D. 525 V8:  Click here for the full 640x480 image. According to the DID website what I need is a 110 link 525VM2. As far as I can tell the 525VM2 is an x-ring. Should I stay with a D.I.D. or go with a different brand, x-ring or o-ring? I have less than 6000 miles on the original chain, but I'm pretty sure the rings dried out when the PO let is sit for four years. When I started cleaning it regularly (maybe not the best idea to use WD-40) I'm pretty sure it broke down the rings. I've been seeing some faint red residue on the chain. You can see a little bit of it in the picture, but I'll try to post a more recent one tonight.
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Jul 17, 2009 23:10
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Wow. Just got back from my first ride after getting a set of Michelin Pilot Powers fitted. I never liked the OEM tyres, but these bad boys just blow them away. It was so much fun tipping into corners and powering through way faster than the last tyre. I know that they wont last as long as something like the Road2s or the RoadSmarts but what the hell. The next few months are going to be fun! Click here for the full 1920x1080 image. Still need to drop the triples down the forks around 5mm to make up the difference as I got a 70 profile on the front. Still, makes the bike look smaller 0_o.  Click here for the full 1440x810 image. edit- Also what the hell? The Yoshimura importer for Australia has gone bust! I cant order in a full system until Suzuki sort their poo poo out. An M4 system from the US is looking more and more attractive...
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Jul 18, 2009 07:25
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jdonz posted:I'm getting ready to replace my chain and I could use a little help choosing one. BikeBandit.com shows chains from RK, EK, BikeMaster, Tsubaki and Regina. I don't have a clue as to what brand is reputable, can anyone make a recommendation?
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Jul 18, 2009 16:42
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Tentacle Party posted:Wow. Just got back from my first ride after getting a set of Michelin Pilot Powers fitted. I never liked the OEM tyres, but these bad boys just blow them away. It was so much fun tipping into corners and powering through way faster than the last tyre. I know that they wont last as long as something like the Road2s or the RoadSmarts but what the hell. The next few months are going to be fun! I love the hell out of my M4 pipe. Really high quality stuff. I'm using an RK XO-ring chain. Proper care is way more important than brand, so buy whatever's cheapest and take good care of it.
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Jul 18, 2009 19:44
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Hey guys, I have a 2006 SV650S with a Full Yosh and a PCIII with about 6500 miles. Recently I synced my throttle bodies and changed my oil. I drove the bike home that day and when I went to start it the next day it had a hell of a time idling and threw me the FI code. I took it back apart and resynced the TBs/made sure everything was tight and I got the light to go away. It still idles like crap though, and seems to be running rich. When I pulled the plugs they looked a little wet. I've resynced the bike twice more now and I'm still having an erratic idle. It will idle at about 1.2-1.3k on start up and then once it gets warm it will idle at about 1.5k. I've also had it hang on idle, where if I'm moving under power and then clutch in it will hang at 2k for about five seconds before dropping back to about 1.5k. I've had the PCIII on it for quite a while and it has always seemed fine. My options right now are the sync tool is bad and the TBs are not actually synced, something happened with my PCIII map, or something else. Any insight would be great. Thanks!
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Jul 18, 2009 19:48
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Z3n posted:I'm using an RK XO-ring chain. Proper care is way more important than brand, so buy whatever's cheapest and take good care of it. Roger that, thanks for the input.
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Jul 18, 2009 21:07
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Was bad and hadnt gotten the bike out in about 7 months (lot of travelling). Wouldnt start up, I can hear a clicking (starter solenoid?) and a loud grinding noise, but thats it, doesnt sound like engine even starting to turn over. Red light is on. The lights and horn are fine, but I got a jump anyways which didnt do anything. Bump started it w/o a problem though, and rode it around for about 2 hours, sounds/works fine (no problem lights). Wont startup after shutting it off though. Any thoughts, anything someone not all that mechanically inclined can check out?
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Jul 19, 2009 01:38
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That's a pretty classic dead battery scenario.
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Jul 19, 2009 07:11
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Install new battery, problem solved.
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Jul 19, 2009 09:20
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frozenphil posted:That's a pretty classic dead battery scenario. Horn and lights are working fine/strong w/o the bike running?
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Jul 19, 2009 18:45
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Baddog posted:Horn and lights are working fine/strong w/o the bike running? If you have a multimeter, check the voltage with the headlight running. If you are hearing clicking and a bad grinding sound it almost sounds like the starter or some part of the starting assembly isnt working correct.
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Jul 19, 2009 19:04
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Baddog posted:Horn and lights are working fine/strong w/o the bike running? Horns and lights take a lot less power to work than a starter does.
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Jul 20, 2009 03:47
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As some may know from the Crash thread, I totaled my SV after about a month of ownership. I am looking down the road a few months after my leg is healed and thinking about what to get next. I learned that while I love the naked bike look, a windscreen is probably a nice thing to have. Highway rides were pretty torturous. I am thinking a V-Strom 650 (though there are far fewer for sale on CL). I don't know if I will ever take it off-road, but it seems pretty versatile on-road. Has anyone ridden one, and what were your thoughts? Also, for the person asking about crush washers a while back, I was prepping for my first oil change the day before my crash. They are standard M12 crush washers. Any auto parts store should carry them. I still have my brand new oil filter to taunt me. I guess that means I need to get another Suzuki at least.
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Jul 20, 2009 05:24
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mike fictitious posted:I am thinking a V-Strom 650 (though there are far fewer for sale on CL). I don't know if I will ever take it off-road, but it seems pretty versatile on-road. Has anyone ridden one, and what were your thoughts? Super comfortable bike to ride on the road, great ergos, bolt upright riding position, and with an aftermarket wind screen, you can happily ride around with your visor up and hold a conversation with your passenger. Never did take one for a boot on gravel, mind you.
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Jul 20, 2009 08:07
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Simkin posted:Super comfortable bike to ride on the road, great ergos, bolt upright riding position, and with an aftermarket wind screen, you can happily ride around with your visor up and hold a conversation with your passenger. Aren't they also a good deal slower than an SV, due to being heavier and having milder cams (or some other power difference)?
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Jul 20, 2009 14:24
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It didn't feel appreciably slower, but I'm sure that an SV would walk all over it on a track, definitely. That's not why you'd be buying one, though.
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Jul 20, 2009 16:58
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So as far as parts interchanges go for Suzuki's, how about forks for an '03 SV650S? I've had a bit of a tumble this weekend, and I'm afraid I'll be needing a pair of forks, radiator, and front plastics (plastics being last on my list of priorities). I've sorta-kinda hunted around, but just got back with the bike in a truck, and have to get it unloaded now. Will be posting details in the Crash Reports thread later. Thanks in advance 
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Jul 21, 2009 20:02
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PitViper posted:So as far as parts interchanges go for Suzuki's, how about forks for an '03 SV650S? I've had a bit of a tumble this weekend, and I'm afraid I'll be needing a pair of forks, radiator, and front plastics (plastics being last on my list of priorities). You mean fitting non SV forks? GSXR 600/750 seem to be the best option if you want to spend a few thousand. Or ohlins If you mean other SV forks then 03-09 should fit.
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Jul 22, 2009 07:53
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Tentacle Party posted:You mean fitting non SV forks? GSXR 600/750 seem to be the best option if you want to spend a few thousand. Or ohlins At least in the US, you can usually pick up a front end for around 500-700$, complete and ready to go. I sold mine with almost everything on it for 450$.
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Jul 22, 2009 16:34
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Z3n posted:At least in the US, you can usually pick up a front end for around 500-700$, complete and ready to go. I sold mine with almost everything on it for 450$. As someone who's gone both routes, is doing a GSX-R front end swap overkill for the street? Or are springs and possibly emulators all that's really needed? I've been on the fence about which way to go for a while. The swap gets me better adjustability, but springs are cheaper.
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Jul 22, 2009 16:56
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waptang posted:As someone who's gone both routes, is doing a GSX-R front end swap overkill for the street? Or are springs and possibly emulators all that's really needed? I've been on the fence about which way to go for a while. The swap gets me better adjustability, but springs are cheaper. I guess the best way to look at it is like this: If you want to eventually get your SV to supersport levels of handling, do the GSX-R swap on the front and find an aftermarket shock for the rear. If your priorities are more towards casual riding, run ricor intiminators, no need for changing spring rate or fork oil weight, and maybe do a shock swap on the rear. In production SV racing, the leaders are about a second off of the times of the guys on the SV superbikes running ricor intiminators. That gives you some idea of how good they are. I don't think a gsxr swap is overkill for the street personally, all of my SVs have had front end swaps.
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Jul 22, 2009 18:55
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From http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462017 Click here for the full 1024x768 image. At a bike meet in Ukraine I think it was?
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Jul 23, 2009 00:37
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Thanks, that's kind of what I figured. Mine is more of a commuter, so I think the GSXR fork swap is a bit overkill. I'll just be keeping an eye out for a gen2 SVS front end for a while then
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Jul 23, 2009 02:26
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PitViper posted:Thanks, that's kind of what I figured. Mine is more of a commuter, so I think the GSXR fork swap is a bit overkill. I'll just be keeping an eye out for a gen2 SVS front end for a while then They pop up pretty frequently on svrider due to a lot of gsxr front end swaps.
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Jul 23, 2009 03:24
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So I'm guessing that because of the underslung pipe and stressed-member engine you can't really lift a SV/DL with an ATV lift?
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Jul 24, 2009 03:35
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Phy posted:So I'm guessing that because of the underslung pipe and stressed-member engine you can't really lift a SV/DL with an ATV lift? I don't know if it's a good idea, but before I had stands, I lifted my SV with a floor jack under the engine (using a block of wood between the two). That was several thousand miles ago, no problems in the interim.
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Jul 24, 2009 14:29
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Phy posted:So I'm guessing that because of the underslung pipe and stressed-member engine you can't really lift a SV/DL with an ATV lift? How does an ATV lift lift? I've used the base of the engine loads of times to lift my bike.
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Jul 24, 2009 17:58
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Does anyone have experience with removing the alternator/stator cover on a first gen? I'm following my Clymer manual, but the cover just doesn't budge. I removed the clutch assembly, all the bolts around the cover, but it won't come off. It wiggles a little, but it seems like something else is there holding it around the top left of it. Any ideas?
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Jul 24, 2009 20:48
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Atomic Hotdog posted:Does anyone have experience with removing the alternator/stator cover on a first gen? I'm following my Clymer manual, but the cover just doesn't budge. I removed the clutch assembly, all the bolts around the cover, but it won't come off. There's both retaining dowels and the magnetic force of the stator. You need to try and pull if off straight. Sometimes it helps to use a screwdriver to gently pry it off the dowel if it's hanging up there. Gently tapping with a rubber mallet or deadfall hammer can help too. Mostly it's just fighting the magnitism to get it to come off straight. Z3n fucked around with this message at 21:20 on Jul 24, 2009 |
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Jul 24, 2009 21:17
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