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incredibull posted:If stopping is the only problem, why not have an electric brake installed on your trailer and install a controller in the Jeep? This is true, but as I said I'm not planning on keeping the Jeep forever, so replacing it now solves the boat trailer problem and the A/C problem and the tiny back seat problem... I own the XJ outright, so if I can get a decent chunk for that I'm looking at maybe 14k in debt... As I said I'm torn. I've seen similar XJ's listed for over 5k, but does anyone know if they are selling? Electric trailer brakes on a boat trailer are a pain in the rear end too - servicing electric brakes that get dunked in salt water is required often.
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Jul 20, 2009 04:01
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How much does the boat weigh? You really should have some sort of trailer brakes electric or surge. Hell my pop up camper weighs less than 2k and it still has surge brakes on it, I can barely tell I towing it. Also look into upgrading you Jeep's brakes, Hawk LTS pads make a big difference, and upgrading to rear discs also helps a lot. I wouldn't spend 18k on a truck just so you can tow a boat, If anything I'd buy an old 3/4 ton silverado or something for a few grand. [edit] it's a bad time to be selling an SUV right now, I tried to sell mine awhile back ('99 80k miles) and had no luck. Good thing though since I got a camper and need it now. If you live in a winter climate I'd wait until right before winter when everyone is looking for a 4x4. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 04:18 on Jul 20, 2009 |
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Jul 20, 2009 04:14
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You can do a Grand Cherokee rotor/brake/booster swap for relatively cheap.
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Jul 20, 2009 04:15
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leica posted:How much does the boat weigh? You really should have some sort of trailer brakes electric or surge. Hell my pop up camper weighs less than 2k and it still has surge brakes on it, I can barely tell I towing it. Boat weighs in ~2000lbs. My uncle (mechanic + engineer + avid boater for many years) instructed me to not get a trailer with brakes (I inherited the boat and the old trailer was toast (and also never had brakes)) since dunking brakes in salt water and even fresh water rapidly destroys them - it's a lot of work every year to maintain them in a functional condition and on a boat that size you *shouldn't* need them. leica posted:Also look into upgrading you Jeep's brakes, Hawk LTS pads make a big difference, and upgrading to rear discs also helps a lot. This is good to know. I will be getting these next. leica posted:[edit] it's a bad time to be selling an SUV right now, I tried to sell mine awhile back ('99 80k miles) and had no luck. Good thing though since I got a camper and need it now. If you live in a winter climate I'd wait until right before winter when everyone is looking for a 4x4. This is what I was thinking would be a big issue. Right now I'm leaning heavily towards keeping my Jeep - I just wanted to give the idea a fair look - it's a really nice truck but I'll keep my money for now. Philip J Fry posted:You can do a Grand Cherokee rotor/brake/booster swap for relatively cheap. How does one go about doing this, and what is "relatively cheap"? I change my own oil, transmission fluid, brake pads, differential fluid, but that's about it. I have relatives who are mechanics but I try not to lean on them too much with my own side projects.
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Jul 20, 2009 14:01
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fordham posted:Can I get $4-5k for my Jeep? A/C is broken, probably the evap, but I could evac/recharge it for selling purposes I suppose. I installed a tranny cooler and hitch myself. Everything else is in drat good shape. Kinda iffy right now. Around the middle TN area at least, that's dealer prices, and a bit high at that. If you had a WJ with working everything and in great shape you could maybe get that. Maybe you might be able to pull off the $4k side of the equation if you fix the AC, detail the hell out of it, and really up-sell the thing. But like others have said, I'd keep it. If all you're doing is towing a 1 ton boat, it should do fine. Maybe upgrade the brakes and just make sure you're keeping your stopping distance. Doctor Zero fucked around with this message at 15:35 on Jul 20, 2009 |
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Jul 20, 2009 15:33
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fordham posted:How does one go about doing this, and what is "relatively cheap"? I change my own oil, transmission fluid, brake pads, differential fluid, but that's about it. I have relatives who are mechanics but I try not to lean on them too much with my own side projects. I'll tell you my plan for brake upgrades, since I just got a camper and want to have more stopping power. I've already got Hawk LTS pads, and I'm getting ready to get new rotors to do the job. The consensus on NAXJA is get the best pads you can get (Hawk) and cheap rotors, since expensive rotors (slotted/drilled) seem not to make much difference.....Although I think cryo treated rotors would be optimal, they are just too expensive. NAPA rotors are around 25-30 bucks and do fine. As far as rear discs, with minor modification grand cherokee discs swap right on, and there is no need to upgrade the booster unless you have a pre '98 XJ. OR you could just swap in a whole Dana44 with the discs already on it and have better brakes and stronger rear end, and I think that;s the route I'll eventually take. Here's a link to the Mad XJ technical page, on it you'll find how to do the rear disc swap. http://www.madxj.com/
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Jul 20, 2009 18:10
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:
That is awesome. Is this a permanent top or can you swap it out like the hard top?
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Jul 20, 2009 18:51
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jackyl posted:That is awesome. Is this a permanent top or can you swap it out like the hard top? 2 adjustable latches up front 5 bolts on the rear. You can take the top off just like a hardtop. The bulkhead would stay in place.
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Jul 20, 2009 18:58
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My family is big into Jeeps. My father did this sweet 1968 Jeep Commando, non-original custom restore. I can't find the pictures prior to the restore.  
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Jul 20, 2009 19:43
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locke.burger posted:My family is big into Jeeps. My father did this sweet 1968 Jeep Commando, non-original custom restore. I can't find the pictures prior to the restore. I think I just came.
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Jul 20, 2009 19:46
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So I was trying to wire in a new stereo into my YJ last night, when I realized that in the original wiring harness, it claims that there is an acc/ignition wire, but in reality there isn't and now I'm wondering what the gently caress?  There was no #5 wire connected to the original wiring harness and I'm pretty sure this is why my stereo won't start up. Although the old stereo worked fine when I turned the key to ON and when driving around, so I'm pretty clueless right now. Tempted to go buy one of those pre-done wiring harnesses. Wtf do I do now?
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Jul 21, 2009 19:21
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Valgarv posted:Tempted to go buy one of those pre-done wiring harnesses. Wtf do I do now?
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Jul 21, 2009 23:27
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:I think I just came. Commandos with the top on look absolutely weird to me. My uncle has a green one with the baby AMC V8 and I don't think its had the top on in 20 years. Probably the ultimate island cruising vehicle. I'll try and find a pic of it somewhere.
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Jul 22, 2009 00:42
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InitialDave posted:Either run an ignition-switched live from elsewhere, or splice the switched and permanent together so it's always on. Don't suppose you would have any on hand idea where the easiest ignition live wire would be? I can easily see myself forgetting to turn my stereo off.
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Jul 22, 2009 00:56
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Unless Jeep decided to mix it up with the Wranglers, the lighter feed should be switched. Real easy to check if you've got a car adapter of any kind.
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Jul 22, 2009 01:38
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Molten Llama posted:Unless Jeep decided to mix it up with the Wranglers, the lighter feed should be switched. Awesome thanks a ton dude.
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Jul 22, 2009 02:37
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DILLIGAF posted:I saw this build on JKO! good work man. I was thinking about doing something similar, but with OEM hinges and latches - The autowrecker out here will sell me bruised doors less the power windows for $50 ea. THe rest is tubes like yours.
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Jul 22, 2009 09:58
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Has anyone replaced the rear glass in a TJ hard top before? I've found a hard top with the rear glass busted out, and the local shops around here want anything from 450-650 for a new piece installed. It looks like I can order a new piece of glass for around 300 from some online vendors, but looks like there is another piece of trim on the bottom I would have to find, as well as installing it myself.
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Jul 22, 2009 20:07
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MiamiKid posted:Has anyone replaced the rear glass in a TJ hard top before? I've found a hard top with the rear glass busted out, and the local shops around here want anything from 450-650 for a new piece installed. ebay has some for $225, looks to me it would be a few bolts through some holes maybe. what about insurance? "I had my glass busted out late one night and needed to get home to feed my sick dying invalid gay baby". duh duh de duh duh duh de duh insurance fraud today!
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Jul 22, 2009 20:55
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Tossed_Salad_Man posted:ebay has some for $225, looks to me it would be a few bolts through some holes maybe. Haha yeah I'd like to avoid the insurance fraud route. Thanks for the recommendation though, I may try one of the ebay sellers.
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Jul 22, 2009 21:18
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I'm usually fairly good at diagnosing my own car troubles. This one has me stumped, and I don't really have the time this week to tear down both hubs and/or the front drive shaft. Excusing my ignorance: I went for a camping trip, and my Jeep beater's first dirt outing last weekend. I checked all of the fluids in the various differentials, transfer case and other vitals so I don't think its something related to lack of lubrication. The problem: When I engage 4Hi or 4Lo and put any sort of load on the front drivetrain whether its with a climb under low throttle, or mild throttle on flat dirt I hear a fairly loud clicking coming from what sounds like the front driver's side. The odd thing is it doesn't follow a pattern. It does happen a little more when the wheels are turned to the left. The driveshaft and U joints at the shaft and wheels don't appear to be damaged, but if I don't have to take everything apart to figure this out it would be great. The problem does not happen AT ALL when in 2Hi. edit: this might not help, but it does feel a lot like the old toyota IFS binding, but this is obviously a solid front axle cherokee. w1ntermute fucked around with this message at 03:56 on Jul 23, 2009 |
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Jul 23, 2009 03:53
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w1ntermute posted:I'm usually fairly good at diagnosing my own car troubles. This one has me stumped, and I don't really have the time this week to tear down both hubs and/or the front drive shaft. I'm guessing a cherokee no younger than 1991? If so, I bet you it's your front vacuum axle disconnect screwing up.
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Jul 23, 2009 04:16
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MrZig posted:I'm guessing a cherokee no younger than 1991? I should have said what the hell it was. I was staring at that thinking to myself "it couldn't be that, it's too obvious". 1988 Cherokee Laredo... with the vacuum axle disconnect. I'll check that out for obvious problems tomorrow.
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Jul 23, 2009 04:24
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w1ntermute posted:I should have said what the hell it was. I was staring at that thinking to myself "it couldn't be that, it's too obvious". It could also be the cardan joint on the front drive shaft. The front U-joint might be fine, but the complex joint at the transfer case side might be all fooked.
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Jul 23, 2009 04:30
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MrZig posted:It could also be the cardan joint on the front drive shaft. The front U-joint might be fine, but the complex joint at the transfer case side might be all fooked. Checked out the cardan joint and the vacuum hoses to the front axle disconnect. Looks like I'm on easy street if you want to compare the two. One of the hoses was completely broken, and they all look like they may have some small cracks due to age. The cardan joint looks great, luckily. Time to hit pick n pull again! Thanks for your ideas again, AI.
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Jul 24, 2009 04:37
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Just wanted to post an update incase anyone decides to wire a stereo into a YJ, there's a power anntenna wire, and the (atleast my) yj didn't have a power antenna, so I used that for the ignition/accessory wire. But really, just buy the wiring harness for 10 bucks. saves alot of hassle.
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Jul 24, 2009 08:52
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Line-X:COMPLETE. Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.  Click here for the full 1600x1200 image.
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Jul 24, 2009 21:00
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Nicew! Just the back, or the whole thing? Also, I forgot to mention this when we were dealing with the top and I don't know if you noticed it or not, but I had them do my kick plates too. That was their suggestion and I am real happy I took it.
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Jul 24, 2009 21:08
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jackyl posted:Nicew! Just the back, or the whole thing? Also, I forgot to mention this when we were dealing with the top and I don't know if you noticed it or not, but I had them do my kick plates too. That was their suggestion and I am real happy I took it. Just the back. Currently I really like the padding+carpet inside the cab, I suppose I could have done the whole tub but really the bed/bulkhead were the most pressing on my to-do list. I have the husky liners in the floorboards and behind the seats, and I think I'll leave it at that for the time being. I need to put the spacers in up front, then find some soft uppers, and get the front cage finished up, then it will be time for new tires, and I'll be done for a few months.
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Jul 24, 2009 21:16
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Any reason why you didn't have the "lip" sprayed? That part of the bed usually gets the most abuse.
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Jul 24, 2009 21:45
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leica posted:Any reason why you didn't have the "lip" sprayed? That part of the bed usually gets the most abuse. I'm going to get rails fabbed up like in the pictures from gr8tops.com I posted/linked earlier. They will act as rails and should strengthen up the body/tub back there with the rear cage gone. http://www.gr8tops.com/images/zoom/BNXCKI/pic_861a.jpg http://www.gr8tops.com/images/zoom/BNXCKI/pic_866a.jpg I may go as far as to have a cross bar go across from one side to the other. Tossed_Salad_Man fucked around with this message at 22:11 on Jul 24, 2009 |
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Jul 24, 2009 22:09
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Gotcha, very nice. I'm going to be so jealous when you're done..... So did you go this route because it's cool (it is) or because you'll be using the bed for hauling wheeling gear? I imagine in this configuration it gives you a lot more options and room for hauling camping gear and other poo poo, rather than dealing with the soft top being in the way.
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Jul 24, 2009 23:39
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leica posted:Gotcha, very nice. I'm going to be so jealous when you're done..... In my jeeps the backseat was always first to go. When the top was down I usually ran a bikini top because a full day without usually meant a not so fun evening. So I saw this top. The back glass slides open and I can still take the doors off or run half doors and it's just like having a bikini top on but with none of the associated soft top up and down stuff. Especially since the LJ top was something that I could not get up quickly like the bestop on my YJ. So I get the best of both worlds really and with much less hassle. I'm toying with trying to do a pop up 15x30 sunroof, I'm just not sure how one would work with the ribs on the roof. Also I'm thinking of a roof rack so those two wouldn't work together so I'm thinking about both options. OH, and if I feel froggy this top can be removed and carried through a regular door, so I can carry it inside my apartment if I WANTED to.
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Jul 24, 2009 23:59
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I have a YJ (see my previous post like 1 page back) with a hard top and doors. Assuming I want to get full fabric doors and a softtop- what would be the setup you guys would suggest?
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Jul 25, 2009 01:55
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Before I venture over to jeepforums and naxja, can someone tell me what my options are for Slip yoke eliminators for an XJ with the np242 transfer case ? This is the one with Fulltime 4wd. From my understanding, I can use a front shaft for the rear, but Im confused about which sye kit to use. Am I forced to do this hack n tap bullshit ? I was sort of hoping there was a simple bolt-on type solution. Also, will a front shaft swap be long enough for a 6.5" lift ? or will I have to have it extended ?
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Jul 25, 2009 12:06
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I'm about to jump into an 07 Wrangler Unlimited with a 6 speed manual and I can't be more excited. I loved the way it drives and it is just so much fun with the top off  It's 2 wheel drive though.... Anyone here care to shed some light on the off-road capabilities of a 2 wheel drive Unlimited? I won't be doing anything extreme, but I'd like to know that if I take a dirt road to a hiking trail I won't be stranded  It has factory upgraded wheels and tires.
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Jul 25, 2009 14:45
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I'm looking at economical ways to keep a kayak on my roof. Does anyone know if Yakima Universal Mighty Mounts will work with a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Does anyone have any experience with them?
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Jul 25, 2009 20:35
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What do you guys think of 97+ Cherokees as daily drivers? I'm going to have to start commuting ~40 miles a day soon and am looking for something cheap, reliable, and able to deal with the occasional snowfall in Seattle. Is there anything off-putting (besides the fuel economy) about using them for commuting?
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Jul 25, 2009 21:09
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Reason posted:I'm looking at economical ways to keep a kayak on my roof. Does anyone know if Yakima Universal Mighty Mounts will work with a '94 Jeep Grand Cherokee? Does anyone have any experience with them? They will fit the ZJ roof rack, but personally I'd sooner get a set of Yak (or Thule) towers and crossbars. The factory crossbars are flimsy as poo poo. Especially after this many years. Kinda blows the whole "economical" thing out of the water, I know, but in my opinion the construction's conducive to your kayak going flying off the vehicle with the OEM crossbars attached. If they feel solid to you, though, go hog wild with the Mighty Mounts. REI is/was having a good sale on either Yak or Thule stuff, but I can't remember what all was included or if it's still running now. Molten Llama fucked around with this message at 22:19 on Jul 25, 2009 |
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Jul 25, 2009 22:17
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upsciLLion posted:What do you guys think of 97+ Cherokees as daily drivers? I'm going to have to start commuting ~40 miles a day soon and am looking for something cheap, reliable, and able to deal with the occasional snowfall in Seattle. Is there anything off-putting (besides the fuel economy) about using them for commuting? Should be good aside from mileage as you point out. If you want bullet-proof, get a straight 6. They're fairly indestructible and last for 300k+ miles easy without too much hassle.
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Jul 26, 2009 00:00
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