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jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
the stock ecu barely tolerates 91. So that's probably part of the problem. We've had a bunch of people we tuned calling lately because it's so hot and their cars don't feel as fast.

Here's some of what I did today:







now for the really dirty parts:



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Mercury Ballistic
Nov 14, 2005

not gun related
I am about to get back from Afghanistan, and I am looking real hard at an 09 WRX, hoping to buy late Sept, early Oct. Two extra things I should add, I have a mostly stock 2004 WRX Wagon (accessport st 1 and new tires) and I am in the process of buying a house. I understand a house can be quit the money pit when you first move in.
I am wondering if trading in my 04 is wise. It was also in a fender bender, but drives fine and is under 40K miles. I dont take it to the track or any of that stuff. Is my timeframe a good time to get a end of the year deal on a 09, or are they all gone by then, and I will have to deal with the new '10s? Any recommendations?

TurboLuvah
Jul 24, 2004

Scientifically proven to be more fuel efficient than hybrids!
Just ordered some Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul Gear 300 for the tranny, will report back when I change the fluid. I'm hoping it will be butter smooth :)

jailbait#3
Aug 25, 2000
forum veteran

Butt Reactor posted:

In a similar vein I'm also looking at a 5-speed Legacy, this one happens to be a 1997 L model with spoiler :v: I drove it and had it checked out by a mechanic, and after talking with the salesguy we settled on $3500 for the price. Is this too much, and should I try to push it down further? After all, there is a big dent on the rear passenger door, plus minor things to fix like the a/c and rear struts...For $3500 I probably should make the dealer fix some of this before I buy it right?

That's not too bad - has it had a timing belt and clutch replacement recently? (should be 120k) I paid about the same for a clean 5MT 1998 L wagon three years ago, and had to do the TB and clutch myself.

flu1d
Oct 6, 2003
jamal: You guys don't happen to do e-tuning do you?

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

TurboLuvah posted:

Just ordered some Redline Lightweight Shockproof and Motul Gear 300 for the tranny, will report back when I change the fluid. I'm hoping it will be butter smooth :)

Im using straight Motul Gear 300 in my transmission and diff and I love it.

Casual Combustion
Jan 12, 2003

so I just bought a 2003 impreza WRX the other day. so far my transition from various awful cars to subaru has been really fantastic and I love the car, but I do have a couple concerns with it if anyone has advice

first off, when I lock the doors via wireless, they seem to alternate between just locking and locking/beeping the horn. I'd like them to just plain lock without making any annoying noises for when I'm coming home at night, I read in the manual you could change the mode by pressing both the buttons, but that didn't seem to make any difference.

secondly, my drivers side door seems to have issues, if I have the windows rolled up, when cornering or just resting my arm on the rest, the door open indicator light comes on. the door itself is securely shut, but the indicator comes on regardless. also, when the window is rolled down it doesn't seem to come on at all, even if I push on the door. if anyone has advice regarding either of the problems it would be much appreciated.

Slow is Fast
Dec 25, 2006

SKYMALL SCRILLA posted:

so I just bought a 2003 impreza WRX the other day. so far my transition from various awful cars to subaru has been really fantastic and I love the car, but I do have a couple concerns with it if anyone has advice

first off, when I lock the doors via wireless, they seem to alternate between just locking and locking/beeping the horn. I'd like them to just plain lock without making any annoying noises for when I'm coming home at night, I read in the manual you could change the mode by pressing both the buttons, but that didn't seem to make any difference.

secondly, my drivers side door seems to have issues, if I have the windows rolled up, when cornering or just resting my arm on the rest, the door open indicator light comes on. the door itself is securely shut, but the indicator comes on regardless. also, when the window is rolled down it doesn't seem to come on at all, even if I push on the door. if anyone has advice regarding either of the problems it would be much appreciated.

For the first one, if your key fob is the same as mine, read the back of it, it has the instructions to shut the drat thing up by hitting the combo of buttons right.

Second part, my car does this too when doing fast cornering. I've just dealt with it, but if anyone else has a solution I'd be excited to hear it.

Butt Reactor
Oct 6, 2005

Even in zero gravity, you're an asshole.

jailbait#3 posted:

That's not too bad - has it had a timing belt and clutch replacement recently? (should be 120k) I paid about the same for a clean 5MT 1998 L wagon three years ago, and had to do the TB and clutch myself.

No idea really but the car has 144k miles on it :shobon: The mechanic said the belts looked fine, and when I drove it I don't think the clutch was slipping or anything like that.



yes I know visual inspection of a timing belt doesn't amount to poo poo, but if it's not cracked it probably doesn't need to be replaced just yet

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
Removing the front sway bar for gravel had rather unexpected results.

HOLY gently caress WHY THE HELL DIDNT I DO THIS SOONER?????? That just turned a car I've been wrestling with into a real handling weapon. Beautiful turn in, beautiful balance, lots of good weight shift.... perfect. How easy and how goddamn good!

Also, RS GC's with the 2.5 in rally trim really are quite amazingly quick and good handling.

Also looking to reduce the rear sway bar as well after that. Is there such a thing as a 17mm sway bar that will fit to the rear of a GDE?

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."
I don't know imprezas very well, but I assume WRX sways don't work on an STI, correct?

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
only sti rear swaybars fit because of the lateral links.

in the front only turbo sedan bars fit. wagons and non-turbos are different due to track width and crossmember differences.




And no we do not e-tune.

Boxbot
Jul 4, 2007

jamal posted:

the stock ecu barely tolerates 91. So that's probably part of the problem. We've had a bunch of people we tuned calling lately because it's so hot and their cars don't feel as fast.

My car was acting normal the next day so I didn't reset the ECU like you suggested. I guess the ECU adjusted itself?

Casual Combustion
Jan 12, 2003

I've got a couple more idiot questions about my car if anyone would be of assistance

1. is there any way to turn off my security system, or make it so the panic feature can't be used? last night it went off at like 3 am for no apparent reason, current suspects are A. cats inside pressing button while they are walking around on table because my cats are assholes or B. maybe a cat outside jumping on the car? there are outdoor cats around here so I don't see it as being out of the realm of possibility. If there's just any specific way I could lock my car without engaging the security that would work as well, I live in the middle of nowhere so I'm not really worried about people loving with the car, but it would be nice to still have it at school, etc.

2. How in the hell do I read a turbo gauge? I've never had a car with one before and I'm totally lost, and everything I've found on google is just like "oh well it measures MPA and those are PSI and RPM which will give you your correct RBI from the NASA blah blah" poo poo I don't understand

dayman
Mar 12, 2009

Is it a yes, or...

SKYMALL SCRILLA posted:

I've got a couple more idiot questions about my car if anyone would be of assistance

1. is there any way to turn off my security system, or make it so the panic feature can't be used? last night it went off at like 3 am for no apparent reason, current suspects are A. cats inside pressing button while they are walking around on table because my cats are assholes or B. maybe a cat outside jumping on the car? there are outdoor cats around here so I don't see it as being out of the realm of possibility. If there's just any specific way I could lock my car without engaging the security that would work as well, I live in the middle of nowhere so I'm not really worried about people loving with the car, but it would be nice to still have it at school, etc.

2. How in the hell do I read a turbo gauge? I've never had a car with one before and I'm totally lost, and everything I've found on google is just like "oh well it measures MPA and those are PSI and RPM which will give you your correct RBI from the NASA blah blah" poo poo I don't understand

2. It's pretty simple. Most boost gauges measure both vacuum and boost (i.e. above and below ambient pressure). Customarily, vacuum is measured in inHg, or inches of mercury. Because it's supposed to be interpreted as vacuum, the actual number you read off the gauge is actually the pressure below atmospheric. So if your gauge reads 20inHg, and the outside pressure is 779 inHg, then the pressure in your system is 759 inHg. The boost side is really easy to use. It's just the pressure in psi above ambient. If your car is stock it should read around 14psi.

TurboLuvah
Jul 24, 2004

Scientifically proven to be more fuel efficient than hybrids!
I'm doing the Redline/Motul mis in my trans/front diff, but I also want to change the rear diff fluid. I don't have enough of the above fluids for the rear diff, but I'm guessing that it doesn't really need any of the special stuff. Would just regular Valvoline 75w90 gear oil be okay for the rear diff? Also, it's a 2002, so no T-70 torx bit, but is it 21mm or a 22mm drain plug?

TurboLuvah fucked around with this message at 22:08 on Jul 20, 2009

Joey joejoejr182
Jun 6, 2007

Danger Zone!
Oh poo poo...



I had a pretty fun afternoon.

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

Just got back from work (2 mile drive) and when I parked the Forester I noticed a little smoke coming out of the hood scoop. I popped the hood and it's coming from around the turbo head shield. It's not a lot of smoke (I probably wouldn't have even noticed it but the lighting was just right for it), but it's definitely smells like burnt oil.

I'll check the oil in the morning, although I haven't noticed it using any oil so far. No CEL (so far) - any ideas as to what I could be facing here?

ab0z
Jun 28, 2008

by angerbotSD
You could have a cracked turbo oil line. First time it happened to my buddy we were here:



and it was a 1 hour drive to the nearest dealer, that didn't have the line in stock. (but helpfully used resources in their attached body shop to repair the line so we could get home :3 )

It happened a second time to the replacement oil line (correct oem part, new). He has since replaced it with a flexible line (braided stainless steel something-or-other) and just crossed 230,000 miles at the dragstrip.

The part is not super hard to replace, but isn't pleasant if the engine is hot. DEFINITELY CHECK YOUR OIL before you drive it again, and check it again at each stop.

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

ab0z posted:

You could have a cracked turbo oil line. First time it happened to my buddy we were here:



and it was a 1 hour drive to the nearest dealer, that didn't have the line in stock. (but helpfully used resources in their attached body shop to repair the line so we could get home :3 )

It happened a second time to the replacement oil line (correct oem part, new). He has since replaced it with a flexible line (braided stainless steel something-or-other) and just crossed 230,000 miles at the dragstrip.

The part is not super hard to replace, but isn't pleasant if the engine is hot. DEFINITELY CHECK YOUR OIL before you drive it again, and check it again at each stop.
I'll give those lines a good once-over on a cold engine and keep a close eye on the oil. I've got a choice between a couple Subaru dealers up here so hopefully someone has the line in stock if that's what the problem is.

TurboLuvah
Jul 24, 2004

Scientifically proven to be more fuel efficient than hybrids!

Joey joejoejr182 posted:

Oh poo poo...



I had a pretty fun afternoon.

Oh poo poo...you're about to spin a bearing :v:

Tremblay
Oct 8, 2002
More dog whistles than a Petco

SKYMALL SCRILLA posted:

I've got a couple more idiot questions about my car if anyone would be of assistance

1. is there any way to turn off my security system, or make it so the panic feature can't be used? last night it went off at like 3 am for no apparent reason, current suspects are A. cats inside pressing button while they are walking around on table because my cats are assholes or B. maybe a cat outside jumping on the car? there are outdoor cats around here so I don't see it as being out of the realm of possibility. If there's just any specific way I could lock my car without engaging the security that would work as well, I live in the middle of nowhere so I'm not really worried about people loving with the car, but it would be nice to still have it at school, etc.

Check here:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1636339

bull3964
Nov 18, 2000

DO YOU HEAR THAT? THAT'S THE SOUND OF ME PATTING MYSELF ON THE BACK.


LordOfThePants posted:

Just got back from work (2 mile drive) and when I parked the Forester I noticed a little smoke coming out of the hood scoop. I popped the hood and it's coming from around the turbo head shield. It's not a lot of smoke (I probably wouldn't have even noticed it but the lighting was just right for it), but it's definitely smells like burnt oil.

I'll check the oil in the morning, although I haven't noticed it using any oil so far. No CEL (so far) - any ideas as to what I could be facing here?

What year? I know 02 Imprezas had an issue where axle grease could leak out and be flug on to the exhaust and turbo which would cause exactly what you are seeing (my WRX did it). The solution was to install sleeves to catch the grease which was a TSB.

You could also be weeping gear oil where the axles enter the transmission and have that flung on the hot exhaust and turbo as well.

LordOfThePants
Sep 25, 2002

bull3964 posted:

What year? I know 02 Imprezas had an issue where axle grease could leak out and be flug on to the exhaust and turbo which would cause exactly what you are seeing (my WRX did it). The solution was to install sleeves to catch the grease which was a TSB.

You could also be weeping gear oil where the axles enter the transmission and have that flung on the hot exhaust and turbo as well.

It's an 05, I did read some people suggesting it might be that so I'll give that a shot as well. It smelled oil burning on something hot (like spilled oil on an exhaust manifold), which made me suspect it was oil leaking somewhere.

I really wish I had a drat garage right now. I can't properly work on my car in the parking lot.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

I think I broke my car :(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO7bga5Ku8c

I just got back from a NASA/PDA Event at Pocono. 3/4 of the way thru the event, the engine developed a weird clack clack clack sound from the engine bay. There is no discernible loss in power or engine lights. The car is not in limp mode. I changed the oil when I got home as I normally do after an event. Hoping that this would make the noise go away. It did seem to be about 1.5qts low. No metal shards or anything out of the ordinary in the old oil. Smelled fine.

The sound manifests itself as you go up in RPM. There is no sound at idle and it gets worse as you get closer to 3k RPM. I'll be bringing it in of course; but, this sucks.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire

LordOfThePants posted:

It's an 05, I did read some people suggesting it might be that so I'll give that a shot as well. It smelled oil burning on something hot (like spilled oil on an exhaust manifold), which made me suspect it was oil leaking somewhere.

I really wish I had a drat garage right now. I can't properly work on my car in the parking lot.

if you can get the car up on a ramp or a curb or something it's easy enough to crawl under there and take a look at the axle. It will be very obvious if that's the problem.

Also, I got this running today finally:



I think that's the most expensive build we've ever done.

jamal fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Jul 21, 2009

8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
I'm in the market for some cheap struts. I'm not looking for anything fancy, just an OEM equivalent. Its for a 02' Impreza Wagon 2.5TS. I'm willing to buy some low miles used struts if anyone here is from Ontario and has some lying around.

On that note: Are the low end KYB struts any good? This is a daily driver but it sees a lot of snow and gravel due to me living in a small town.

8ender fucked around with this message at 05:11 on Jul 21, 2009

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

jamal posted:

only sti rear swaybars fit because of the lateral links.

in the front only turbo sedan bars fit. wagons and non-turbos are different due to track width and crossmember differences.

Piece of piss for us to fit then. We can engineer ANYTHING :D





Im now seriously considering doing a vinyl wrap to replicate the mess cause it looks brilliant

Big Nubbins
Jun 1, 2004
As I was hunting for STis, one caught my eye: 35k miles, only gauges, a short shifter/bushings, downpipe, silencer delete, and swaybars/endlinks has been done to it. It's relatively close to me and the owner only wants $21.5 for it. He doesn't have to sell it so he's firm on the price, which is somewhat between trade-in value and bluebok price. I talk to him and he links me to his journal on iwsti. Now I discover that it's had quite a few track days under it's belt. This should be a big flashing "RUN AWAY" sign to me, right? On one hand he's very verbose about how well he takes car of his car, but flogs it on the track about once a month (including boiling the brake fluid on one occasion), and I'm probably answering my own question, but would like some opinions. Even if they're " you're an idiot for even considering a car that's been driven hard more than once", even though I'm sure at some time or another, all used STis have been driven hard.

Edit: after any given track day he's had the oil Blackstone tested religiously, and provided me scans of the results. Not sure if this helps things or not.

Big Nubbins fucked around with this message at 23:17 on Jul 21, 2009

bung
Dec 14, 2004

c355n4 posted:

I think I broke my car :(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO7bga5Ku8c

I just got back from a NASA/PDA Event at Pocono. 3/4 of the way thru the event, the engine developed a weird clack clack clack sound from the engine bay. There is no discernible loss in power or engine lights. The car is not in limp mode. I changed the oil when I got home as I normally do after an event. Hoping that this would make the noise go away. It did seem to be about 1.5qts low. No metal shards or anything out of the ordinary in the old oil. Smelled fine.

The sound manifests itself as you go up in RPM. There is no sound at idle and it gets worse as you get closer to 3k RPM. I'll be bringing it in of course; but, this sucks.

I just had my engine replaced due to the same problem. Make sure SOA offers you an extended warranty.

c355n4
Jan 3, 2007

bung posted:

I just had my engine replaced due to the same problem. Make sure SOA offers you an extended warranty.

Hehe, I wish this was an option. Its a 1999 2.5RS. Hopefully, I'll be able to drop it off at the shop tomorrow or the day after.

Seat Safety Switch
May 27, 2008

MY RELIGION IS THE SMALL BLOCK V8 AND COMMANDMENTS ONE THROUGH TEN ARE NEVER LIFT.

Pillbug

c355n4 posted:

Hehe, I wish this was an option. Its a 1999 2.5RS. Hopefully, I'll be able to drop it off at the shop tomorrow or the day after.
If it is dead, you're one step closer to realizing the true potential of the 2.5RS.

I hope it's a cheap fix, though. :(

Gigi Galli
Sep 19, 2003

and then the car turned in to fire

c355n4 posted:

I think I broke my car :(

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bO7bga5Ku8c

I just got back from a NASA/PDA Event at Pocono. 3/4 of the way thru the event, the engine developed a weird clack clack clack sound from the engine bay. There is no discernible loss in power or engine lights. The car is not in limp mode. I changed the oil when I got home as I normally do after an event. Hoping that this would make the noise go away. It did seem to be about 1.5qts low. No metal shards or anything out of the ordinary in the old oil. Smelled fine.

The sound manifests itself as you go up in RPM. There is no sound at idle and it gets worse as you get closer to 3k RPM. I'll be bringing it in of course; but, this sucks.

Yeah, this is the exact sound my engine I had to get it replaced. I guess it's not uniqe to the 09 WRX :v:

Lando
Sep 15, 2003

by T. Finn

Mercury Ballistic posted:

I am about to get back from Afghanistan, and I am looking real hard at an 09 WRX, hoping to buy late Sept, early Oct. Two extra things I should add, I have a mostly stock 2004 WRX Wagon (accessport st 1 and new tires) and I am in the process of buying a house. I understand a house can be quit the money pit when you first move in.
I am wondering if trading in my 04 is wise. It was also in a fender bender, but drives fine and is under 40K miles. I dont take it to the track or any of that stuff. Is my timeframe a good time to get a end of the year deal on a 09, or are they all gone by then, and I will have to deal with the new '10s? Any recommendations?

yoyoyo-

Check Nasioc for better info. Ps I lost your phone number, so text me or email me at bigmchuge @gmail.com.

BannedForLulz
Feb 19, 2008

TurboLuvah posted:

I'm doing the Redline/Motul mis in my trans/front diff, but I also want to change the rear diff fluid. I don't have enough of the above fluids for the rear diff, but I'm guessing that it doesn't really need any of the special stuff. Would just regular Valvoline 75w90 gear oil be okay for the rear diff? Also, it's a 2002, so no T-70 torx bit, but is it 21mm or a 22mm drain plug?

The drain plug on the rear diff is the exact size of a 1/2" ratchet. Just stick the end of the ratchet on there as if the drain plug were a socket.

slowspeedracer
Oct 6, 2007

Figured I would come here for some answers.

I am looking at ditching my Sentra Spec V tonight due to an unfortunate radiator core support delete option that came up and now utilizes my radiator as an engine mount... So, I would like to replace it with either an Impreza or Legacy. Is it worth waiting for a 2010 or are the changes minimal enough I can go with an 09.

Either getting a 09 Impreza premium pkg, or Legacy Special edition.

Any Michigan goons work with Hodges Subaru in Ferndale Mi?

Thanks

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."
The 2010 Legacy is a completely different car than the 2009.
Which is better depends on how you feel about huge

Ziploc
Sep 19, 2006
MX-5

nm posted:

The 2010 Legacy is a completely different car than the 2009.
Which is better depends on how you feel about huge


Where are the rest of the comparison pics?

nm
Jan 28, 2008

"I saw Minos the Space Judge holding a golden sceptre and passing sentence upon the Martians. There he presided, and around him the noble Space Prosecutors sought the firm justice of space law."

Ziploc posted:

Where are the rest of the comparison pics?

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8ender
Sep 24, 2003

clown is watching you sleep
Don't let those pictures fool you. The 2010 Legacy is just puffed up because its angry. They do that.

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