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Bahamutsrage posted:/\/\/\ i don't mind the headlights but the hood is killing it for me /\/\/\ The hood louvers look just like the E46 M3 GTR. Though I would like it better if it was the smaller E36 M3 GTR louvers.
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Jul 23, 2009 18:19
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That e36 looks loving awful.
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Jul 23, 2009 20:36
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BraveUlysses posted:That e36 looks loving awful. It's only ever the 4 doors. Every 2 door E36 m3 I've seen around here is usually nice and stock and well maintained. All the 4 door m3s have ugly huge rims and a bunch of other ricer crap. And yes, that particular one is awful. It's like a riced honda civic exploded into it.
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Jul 23, 2009 22:49
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Hog Obituary posted:Apologies if this has already been posted, but there's apparently a $4500 incentive available (NOT 'cash for clunkers') on the 335d (d only) through August 31st: My neighbor appreciated it. I actually really like the new wheels on the 335d: 
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Jul 23, 2009 23:16
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Wow no kidding. Those wheels are pretty awesome. They remind me if the RS4 a bit.
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Jul 23, 2009 23:22
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Bahamutsrage posted:Wow no kidding. Those wheels are pretty awesome. They remind me if the RS4 a bit. Found it on BMW USA, they're sport package wheels. Way nicer than the $5k "premium wheels". 
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Jul 23, 2009 23:47
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Bahamutsrage posted:Hey that's almost my Z4! Same wheels even. quote:Be a dear and tell me how well these work when you get yours, and where to get one, thanks.
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Jul 24, 2009 02:48
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Bahamutsrage posted:Man, that black grille is gonna be saaweeeet. And I didn't know they made an M version of the Z, that's awesome! 
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Jul 24, 2009 07:22
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Are there any known electronic failure points in the E46 that can lead to a nasty parasitic draw? I've had my (15 month old) battery too flat to start the car twice and barely able to do it once within the last week. I've unplugged my radar detector and HD DICE at night the last few nights to take the aftermarket stuff out of the equation, but yet again this morning I woke up to a car that wouldn't start. Either the battery's hosed or I have something leaking current, but I haven't a clue where to start.
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Jul 24, 2009 14:54
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Set your multimeter to measure current, connect it between negative battery terminal and clamp, measure draw with car off, then pull fuses one by one until the draw disappears.
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Jul 24, 2009 20:15
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Anyone able to tell me if they see any visible mods or anything conspicuously missing/out of place other than the air filter to this E24 engine?  Its had some other mostly cosmetic stuff. The suspension is done, possibly a short shifter, and they white faced the gauges. Its a sub-100k 87. I really wanted an 89 with the fiberglass side-bumper covers, the one I posted a few pages ago sold within hours. I'm sure there's a way to get those after-market though.
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Jul 24, 2009 21:34
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Is any part of the headlight circuit in the E30 engine wire harness? I replaced the harness a couple months ago and shortly after that (same time?) the headlights stopped working. The parking lights come on as do the tail lights and high beams, but no lows. The low beam warning light turns on automatically with the car on the check panel. I've tried a couple different headlight switches with no success. I'm thinking it might be the low beam relay that appears to be built into the fusebox (pain in the rear end to replace from the look of it), is there a way to bypass that relay to verify the problem? Thanks!
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Jul 25, 2009 00:59
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I need to remove the lower reinforcement plate from the front subframe of my e46 sedan, but I've run into some confusion regarding refitting it. The BMW TIS says (from what I can make out) tighten to 59Nm (43 lb-ft) then a torque angle of 90 degrees. The Bentley manual lists the same torque spec, but then says 90 degrees + 30 degrees. (it doesn't say +/- 30). It's also vague about whether or not these bolts need replacing on non-M cars. I know it's probably overkill, although I'd prefer to know I've done it by the book. Could anyone confirm that I'm interpreting this correctly, and it is in fact tighten to the specified torque, then a further 90 degrees? I plan to refit this part with the car supported on four jackstands. Are there any pros or cons to doing it with the car's weight supported on the wheels instead, or is this just splitting hairs?
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Jul 25, 2009 18:18
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Heya BMW goons, I've been wanting to get rid of my pickup and something more appropriate as a daily driver for a 30 mile commute, and i got an offer on my craigslist for a trade for a 1993 BMW 325i 5 speed. I haven't looked at it yet, but the one thing he brought up as an issue was second gear not linking up, but drives fine going from 1st to 3rd. Other than that issue it's exactly what i want (early 90's Euro commuter), is this a big fix, and is there anything else I should consider? I want to get back to him pretty quick so any answers are appreciated! PS I'd say i have a 6/10 expertise level. I can manage doing maintnance on my own and know my way around a Haynes manual, but couldn't do welding or anything as big as a rebuild. zenless fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Jul 25, 2009 |
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Jul 25, 2009 18:25
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:Anyone able to tell me if they see any visible mods or anything conspicuously missing/out of place other than the air filter to this E24 engine? Looks pretty clean, I have an M30 engine myself. I'd ask him what's up with all those naked wires on the left in the first image. I assume he has taken off the black tape they're normally wrapped in, in order to fix or modify something, which isn't necessarily a bad thing, but I'd ask, and if you buy it, definitely wrap them up to protect them.
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Jul 25, 2009 18:32
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zenless posted:Heya BMW goons, I've been wanting to get rid of my pickup and something more appropriate as a daily driver for a 30 mile commute, and i got an offer on my craigslist for a trade for a 1993 BMW 325i 5 speed. I haven't looked at it yet, but the one thing he brought up as an issue was second gear not linking up, but drives fine going from 1st to 3rd. Other than that issue it's exactly what i want (early 90's Euro commuter), is this a big fix, and is there anything else I should consider? I want to get back to him pretty quick so any answers are appreciated! Ok so this e36 has ~200k, the current driver has had it for about 16k, the guy before him took care of it quite well from what i understand. The problem is that 2nd gear doesn't stick, and for driving they just go 1st to 3rd, not the best answer, but doesn't seem unreasonable. Given my trade i'm pretty sure i'm going to go for it, pictures tomorrow, and if everything looks good doing the trade Monday. Im pretty excited. Here's the craigslits ad, we had to reschedule today's meetup: http://nh.craigslist.org/bar/1280110640.html Since it's a little customized i'm wondering if it is already chipped. Going to have to find a good transmission mechanic to get me fixed up. Other then that i do wonder why you would have a 7" LCD dvd player in a 2 door car. Maybe i'm just thinking as someone that just drives for commuting. zenless fucked around with this message at 20:47 on Jul 26, 2009 |
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Jul 26, 2009 01:51
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zenless posted:Ok so this e36 has ~200k, the current driver has had it for about 16k, the guy before him took care of it quite well from what i understand. The problem is that 2nd gear doesn't stick, and for driving they just go 1st to 3rd, not the best answer, but doesn't seem unreasonable. Given my trade i'm pretty sure i'm going to go for it, pictures tomorrow, and if everything looks good doing the trade Monday. Im pretty excited.
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Jul 26, 2009 22:50
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zenless posted:Ok so this e36 has ~200k, the current driver has had it for about 16k, the guy before him took care of it quite well from what i understand. The problem is that 2nd gear doesn't stick, and for driving they just go 1st to 3rd, not the best answer, but doesn't seem unreasonable. Given my trade i'm pretty sure i'm going to go for it, pictures tomorrow, and if everything looks good doing the trade Monday. Im pretty excited. Repairing the transmission will cost more than just buying a low miles used one. Also, I wouldn't touch that car with somebody elses' 10 foot pole.
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Jul 26, 2009 23:17
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Taymar posted:Could anyone confirm that I'm interpreting this correctly, and it is in fact tighten to the specified torque, then a further 90 degrees? My copy of TIS says 59Nm and then 90 + 30 degrees. It also says nothing about mandatory bolt replacement.
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Jul 26, 2009 23:25
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Hey guys, rarely post here, but waiting for some work to finish processing so I want to share my new toy. Long story I can elaborate on later, but I was given an awesome offer on an 00 M Roadster that I couldn't refuse. My attainable dream car has always been an 02 M Coupe, so I had to pick it up. I wasn't too big on the color before I picked it up, but it has definitely grown on me. I'd probably hate it if I drove it every day, but its perfect for summer weekends. The good: - I've looked underneath the car and inside the trunk, no signs of subframe failure, so I'm very happy about that. - The body and paint is in great shape. One or two rock chips by the grill, otherwise it is perfect. It spent most of it's life down in Florida and garaged, and it shows well. Top is good, rear window a little foggy though. - Interior is very good as well. A couple minor things I'll list in the cons, but without looking too hard it looks almost new. - I have all the records and it seems to have been kept up quite well. Drive train appears to be completely unmolested. Clutch is strong, no motion on the motor mounts. The meh: - It has about 114k miles on it. Not insane high for the S52 engine, but sort of on the high side. - Most recent owner installed aftermarket HIDs and Alpine stereo. Not horrible products, but poor installations. I get people that flash their lights at me thinking I have my high beams on, so I think I need to level them out, and the speaker wiring doesn't seem great as it will cut out going over bumps. Nothing a Saturday won't fix. The bad: - Throwing a Check Engine code for MAF sensor. A quick check showed the sensor giving out zeroes, completely malfunctioning. - Left front turn signal doesn't work when headlights are on. Kind of puzzling, it isn't the bulb as I switched the left and right, and appears to be working fine with the headlights off. Probably something he screwed up when installing the HIDs, but makes me nervous there are underlying electronics demons in the car. Hoping it is as simple as the lighting harness. - Driver side window regulator needs to be fixed. Does not stop at the right height, so unless I stop it manually just right, window could leak. - Slight glove box sag, another common problem of the E36/7. - The door handles will sometimes stick closed. Still have to check out if it is a simple adjustment or if I need new hardware. All in all I'm extremely pleased with the purchase. Whenever I drive it I have a poo poo eating grin that's impossible to wipe off, and the first two weekends driving it to the shore gave me a nasty farmer's tan. Originally I planned on only keeping it for a year and reselling it since I got such a good deal, but that's seeming tougher and tougher. From what I've researched online, the color is pretty rare. Does anyone know if this will do anything to the resale value, either good or bad?
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Jul 27, 2009 01:40
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gently caress subframe bushings. Just did the rear subframe bushings on my e28. The good news, the old ones were so poo poo I didn't need to sawzall the inner segments out. Just vicegrips and the BFH. Bad news: the new ones, rubber OE, not polyurethane, are a slippery bitch to get in. Lifting the car up by the bushing only got it within 1 inch of seated. I ended up loading the backseat with weight (parents) to get the bushings in, and sitting on the trunk. At least all that got me something, the rear end no longer feels like it's disconnected, and the car doesn't weave all over the road when I'm at highway speeds.
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Jul 27, 2009 07:35
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SlapActionJackson posted:My copy of TIS says 59Nm and then 90 + 30 degrees. It also says nothing about mandatory bolt replacement. Thanks for looking this up, do you recall if this was for the coupe or sedan? Taymar fucked around with this message at 12:37 on Jul 27, 2009 |
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Jul 27, 2009 12:28
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I'm a (not so) proud owner of an E36 '98 320 Coupe M-Sport, Avusblau in all it's sexyness. The reason why I decided to register after 3-4 years of lurking is simple. Or you'd think it is. Guess I'm just venting and telling you not to DIY unless you have a huge press in your garage. gently caress rear wheel's ball bearings! (If that's the real name for them, I'm not a native English speaker.) I live in a city with a hair under 90 000 people, which isn't small in Finnish terms, and it took me all morning to try and find a shop which a) doesn't rip the hair from my arse along with the payment for the job and b) actually agreed to take on the job. I weighed the option of doing it myself over the weekend with a few cases of beer but opted not to, as I've done it before. Having to remove the rear support arm (again, I'm loosely translating in my head) and banging the ball bearings with a hammer for X amount of hours, hoping it'd come loose. She's going out on Friday, and the cheerful girl in the phone said they'd be done with the above plus an oil change in 2 hours. If they manage that I'll clap until my arms bleed, and then take the girl out for a dinner inspite of my fiance's opinion.
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Jul 27, 2009 13:07
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Taymar posted:Thanks for looking this up, do you recall if this was for the coupe or sedan? Sedan. 2004 330i to be exact, but the Coupe has the same spec anyway.
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Jul 27, 2009 15:06
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What the gently caress, I just put in this new RSM last week and it already looks like it is starting to tear. Can anyone comment on this?
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Jul 27, 2009 15:47
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Pissingintowind posted:What the gently caress, I just put in this new RSM last week and it already looks like it is starting to tear. Can anyone comment on this? Solution: http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_4_155&products_id=89
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Jul 27, 2009 16:37
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Doctor Grape Ape posted:Solution: You're suggesting spherical race-ready $240 RSMs...? I can't tell if you are joking or not. I just got the ones in my picture, they're the Meyle HD ones with reinforcement plates that UUC and other vendors sell. I also just replaced the rear shocks with stock Sachs units. I'm trying to figure out if that crack in the material is bad or not and if I should call UUC and get a replacement. They were literally put in by me less than 100 miles ago.
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Jul 27, 2009 17:39
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Pissingintowind posted:You're suggesting spherical race-ready $240 RSMs...? I can't tell if you are joking or not. Joking, of course. Though, if you were swimming in money, it'd solve the problem as well. Email the picture to UUC and see what they think. I have personally never seen a Meyle HD fail that soon, but anything is possible.
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Jul 27, 2009 19:25
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Pilsner posted:Looks pretty clean, I have an M30 engine myself. Welp, I bought it.    1987 635i with 96,000 miles, $5,500 plus california's godawful tax, registration etc made it $6,200. Neeeds: Front end align, parking brake fixed, a/c recharge, shifter bushings. Other than that there are a few cosmetic things, a couple dings and faded paint on the roof. And those loving HORRIBLE enkeis. But, I'm in love. *swoon*
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Jul 27, 2009 20:20
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:Welp, I bought it. Dude I'm jealous. I had a 1983 633CSi and loved that car. That red looks fantastic too! Enjoy!
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Jul 27, 2009 20:23
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priznat posted:Dude I'm jealous. I had a 1983 633CSi and loved that car. That red looks fantastic too! Loving it so far. A pretty peppy lil' engine for such a loving heavy car. I'll love it even more post-alignment, I think. I wonder how reliable putting a couple bricks behind the wheels and leaving it in gear on a 5 degree slope of my driveway will be as a roll-deterrent. Also, telescope but no tilt? I feel like that steering wheel is at the worlds most uncomfortable angle.
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Jul 27, 2009 21:44
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:I wonder how reliable putting a couple bricks behind the wheels and leaving it in gear on a 5 degree slope of my driveway will be as a roll-deterrent. That would be fine, but I would just invest in a $2 pair of wheel chocks until you fix the parking brake. Just gives me a better piece of mind. That said, just leaving it in gear is probably more than enough. Put it in first and then have someone try to push the car backwards. The only way it will move is if they can overcome the static friction from the tires, because it will not roll. And yeah, some BMWs are like that with nonadjustable steering wheels. I believe they're like that to comply with crash safety standards. Try to adjust the seat to the wheel.
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Jul 27, 2009 22:29
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:Loving it so far. A pretty peppy lil' engine for such a loving heavy car. I bet the local car parts stores might have some proper wood chocks for you, might be a little better than the bricks. I remember the steering wheel adjust too, it was great for me because I'm tall and pushing the wheel towards the dash I could get a lot of room and good arm extension. My only beef with my 6 was that it was pretty difficult putting some aftermarket speakers in there - nothing silly but the existing ones were atrocious. Seems to be a common thing in bimmers though, my 03 325iT has total crap speakers too.
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Jul 27, 2009 22:36
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Nice 6er. I keep thinking I want one, then remind myself that I live alone, drive perhaps 25 miles a week and already pay for one parking spot. But I want. I want. I want. While I've got the floor, I finally got around to replacing the DiCE ipod adapter in my 530, mainly because the previous one sounded like poo poo. I bought the professional, behind-dash installation option which is really the way to fly if you have to do it yourself--popping out the stereo is easy compared to running a cable all the way from the trunk IMHO. Anyhow, I figured out pretty quickly why I had problems with the old unit. The shop that installed it had no business installing stereos:  I cut out like 10 feet of excess cable which probably shouldn't have been spliced into the harness in the first place. The new silverline would have been worth it in any case--the pro "user locking choice mode" and ability to read playlist/album/artist names is worth it. e: I forgot how to work flickr. wwb fucked around with this message at 23:08 on Jul 27, 2009 |
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Jul 27, 2009 23:05
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I'll definitely check into the wood chocks. and maybe a different (Slightly smaller diameter) steering wheel might help the oddness. I'll fiddle with the seats though... Hopefully I'll have the brake fixed tomorrow though. Taking it to my guy up the block. As to the stereo, I don't plan on fiddling with it much. It works, sounds like crap, but since I work in/around music 90 percent of my life, my car is home to Talk Radio only. Also, I gotta get the Club. The motors for the windows (Esp the rears) Seem really slow. I guess that's correct for the age, that they need to be replaced.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:08
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wwb posted:While I've got the floor, I finally got around to replacing the DiCE ipod adapter in my 530, mainly because the previous one sounded like poo poo. Does yours make a terrible whistling/interference type noise and the volume is way low? I have a DICE connected to my cd changer and it's pretty terrible, overall. Quite a disappointment. Usually I just turn on the FM instead nowadays, the sound quality is almost as bad as those old cassette adapters.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:12
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:The motors for the windows (Esp the rears) Seem really slow. I guess that's correct for the age, that they need to be replaced. This is more from my experience as an electrical engineer over car knowledge, but you might want to check that the motors are getting enough power to them. It could be some corrosion in the system causing the slow opening/closing, with those motors they'll either pretty much work or just be dead. It seems to me that the power to them might be the issue. I could be and probably am way off base because despite my EE background I know not very much about the electicals on automobiles. Just going from my experience screwing around with electric motors and the like.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:17
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I'm selling my 330i ZHP before I move - it deserves a better life than parked on the street in DC without moving for days at a time. Shameless plug - http://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3177707
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Jul 27, 2009 23:27
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priznat posted:you might want to check that the motors are getting enough power to them In my experience with the 3 series (limited to E36 & E46s) it is often the window regulators themselves being either insufficiently lubricated or slightly mis-aligned, such that the torque of the window motor no longer goes 100% towards turning the regulator.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:33
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Sterndotstern posted:In my experience with the 3 series (limited to E36 & E46s) it is often the window regulators themselves being either insufficiently lubricated or slightly mis-aligned, such that the torque of the window motor no longer goes 100% towards turning the regulator. That's good to know/check too! I've been incredibly fortunate with all the electrical stuff on my BMWs thus far (touch wood), only difficulty I've had was the idle control valve on my 6 series, that went in traffic and was a little freaky. I remember the door seals on my 6 series were incredibly tight as well (despite being almost a 20 year old car at the time) so that could also go along with the slow windows due to a misalignment.. In any case the motors might be fine.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:36
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