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Tomorrow I plan on getting my E36 climate control computer repaired using this method. The guy used a "0.47 microfarad 50 volt tantalum capacitor" but says that 47 microfarad capacitors seem to work fine. My local radio shack only carried the latter. However, on the back, it says 35V maximum. I know next to nothing about electronics. Will this capacitor work? I can take pictures if necessary. Im fairly certain this is the one I picked up.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:51
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priznat posted:Does yours make a terrible whistling/interference type noise and the volume is way low? I have a DICE connected to my cd changer and it's pretty terrible, overall. Quite a disappointment. Usually I just turn on the FM instead nowadays, the sound quality is almost as bad as those old cassette adapters. None at all. Old sound quality issue sounded like (in my non-sound engineer head) I was dealing with a system where the gain was pegged to high and just about everything was clipping nastily. Probably explained by either lovely wiring job or burned out dice (it half-passed the smell test). My comparison was songs coming off CDs versus iPod, and the iPod sounded comparable if not better. I haven't had much listening time and not much at low volume, but I didn't notice any quality issues at all. Note I'm using the behind-radio, in-dash wiring option which I'd suspect is alot less suspect to interference since there is maybe 12" of wiring involved versus 20' with the trunk options. I think you can buy the in-dash wiring harness which was a snap to put in.
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Jul 28, 2009 02:07
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Jumping in for the first time in this thread... Has anyone seen / heard of an Alpina model based on the 135? I could of sworn i saw one, but now can not seem to find it despite google-fu
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Jul 28, 2009 03:01
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Pissingintowind posted:You're suggesting spherical race-ready $240 RSMs...? I can't tell if you are joking or not. I can't offer any advice on the UUC's, but there are cheaper versions of the spherical RSM's available. TC Kline Racing sells their version ( http://www.tcklineracing.com/TCKRUM12M1-small.jpg ) for $159/pair, and mine have been trouble free. Mine weren't just to replace worn parts though, they were part of a fairly thorough suspension upgrade/replacement program. TC Kline makes lots of cool suspension goodies for your BMW, and the Vorshlag stuff is very good also.
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Jul 28, 2009 03:23
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The Locator posted:I can't offer any advice on the UUC's, but there are cheaper versions of the spherical RSM's available. TC Kline Racing sells their version ( http://www.tcklineracing.com/TCKRUM12M1-small.jpg ) for $159/pair, and mine have been trouble free. I don't want spherical NVH though... I just want a near-stock replacement thats good for 30,000 or so miles. The Meyle's or OE ones are ~$55 instead of $150+ for spherical. I think I'm going to take this one off and examine it, then raise hell at UUC.
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Jul 28, 2009 03:27
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Pissingintowind posted:I don't want spherical NVH though... I just want a near-stock replacement thats good for 30,000 or so miles. The Meyle's or OE ones are ~$55 instead of $150+ for spherical. I think I'm going to take this one off and examine it, then raise hell at UUC. I understand, and hopefully UUC will take care of you. If not, the rubber version of TC-Kline RSM's aren't too horrible at $105, and shouldn't be much worse than OEM in NVH. http://www.tcklineracing.com/monoball.htm#rearshock I honestly don't know how much NVH I get from the RSM's, since I never drove the car with OEM stuff, as it was purchased specifically to turn into a track car. I don't think the car is really very bad in the NVH department, but then I daily drove a Mustang for several years that didn't have a single piece of rubber in the suspension (everything was either Delron or metal) and it had 1100# springs in front, so my measuring stick of what is acceptable NVH might be broken.
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Jul 28, 2009 03:33
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Pissingintowind posted:I don't want spherical NVH though... I just want a near-stock replacement thats good for 30,000 or so miles. The Meyle's or OE ones are ~$55 instead of $150+ for spherical. I think I'm going to take this one off and examine it, then raise hell at UUC. Maybe look into some after market Poly RSMs? They tend to be cheaper than sphericals, and more suited for everyday use. Some manufacturers even make it so that when the RSM wears out you only need to order the poly bushing to repair it. I bought the BavAuto Poly RSMs when I ordered all my other suspension goodies and I can't say that there is anymore noticeable NVH in the 12k+ miles I've put on them.
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Jul 28, 2009 03:34
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:And those loving HORRIBLE enkeis. Those wheels are 102% AWESOME.
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Jul 28, 2009 03:50
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ab0z posted:Those wheels are 102% AWESOME. 102% aweome? More like 102% suck, I think. I'd rather have the deep dish bbs'es that came on the m6. That would be perfect.
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Jul 28, 2009 08:16
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Mmmhmmm....finally received my grille  ps: please excuse the horrendous foggy headlight  Before:  After:  a better picture:  I love it!
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Jul 28, 2009 18:00
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Definitely looks better black. It makes the front end flow better in my opinion. I think the chrome broke up the curve too much. Nice choice.
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Jul 28, 2009 18:12
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wwb posted:None at all. Old sound quality issue sounded like (in my non-sound engineer head) I was dealing with a system where the gain was pegged to high and just about everything was clipping nastily. Probably explained by either lovely wiring job or burned out dice (it half-passed the smell test). The sound on my DICE adapter is also pretty much perfect - at least CD quality. I had to futz with the equalizer levels a bit but it's fine now. The only problem I've had with DICE is that it won't charge my iPhone unless I have the radio set to CD. Given that I usually keep my radio off, DICE's ability to charge the phone is at least as important as playing the music.
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Jul 28, 2009 18:41
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Hm I think I have an issue with mine, it seems to get interference. A loud hiss mostly. Probably something to do with connecting up to the cd changer instead of the back of the head unit. Next car better have the ipod adapter built in!
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Jul 28, 2009 18:45
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I think you can buy the in-dash wiring harness without purchasing another unit, that might help your sound quality issues.
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Jul 28, 2009 19:13
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wwb posted:I think you can buy the in-dash wiring harness without purchasing another unit, that might help your sound quality issues. Unless your car has the rear-mounted DSP. In my e38 there's no in-dash option.
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Jul 28, 2009 19:56
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I have blacked out my entire car but for some reason I still like the chrome bling grill......It looks really good on some cars though.
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Jul 28, 2009 20:47
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Everything you ever wanted to know about the E46: http://www.bimmerfest.com/wiki/index.php?title=BMW_E46 My 330i ZHP:  My 1987 BMW 325e 24 Hours of LeMons car... the Porcubimmer... the only BMW with the pricks on the outside: 
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Jul 28, 2009 21:13
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CornHolio posted:Tomorrow I plan on getting my E36 climate control computer repaired using this method. As kind of an addendum to this, I had the unit out today, and could tell that this fix had been done before. The capacitor by the large blue connector is definitely not the original. Could this still be the culprit?
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Jul 28, 2009 23:24
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CornHolio posted:As kind of an addendum to this, I had the unit out today, and could tell that this fix had been done before. The capacitor by the large blue connector is definitely not the original. Could this still be the culprit? You'll be fine with the different cap first of all (I don't remember if I posted this already or not). If you already have a new cap on there, all you need to do is reflow the solder to make a better connection.
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Jul 29, 2009 00:49
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So my radiator showed up today.... Gotta love jumping in a group buy that was only open for a day that netted me this beauty 175 shipped. Now if only my drat timing belt would show up i could get to it.
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Jul 29, 2009 01:37
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pkx posted:My 330i ZHP: I was wondering if you posted here...
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Jul 29, 2009 04:03
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Keyser S0ze posted:I have blacked out my entire car but for some reason I still like the chrome bling grill......It looks really good on some cars though. loving gorgeous What wheels are those, they look fantastic! I'm all new to the BMW experience and I gotta say it's definitely different than owning an import 
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Jul 29, 2009 04:22
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Has anyone supercharged their e36 M3? I'm just doing some initial research looking at these kits. They are bolt on kits, but I'm wondering what's some stuff that's not in the kit that will NEED to be done. For example I know the stock internals can handle 350hp fine, but I'm unsure if the stock fuel pump/clutch/brakes/etc can handle it?
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Jul 29, 2009 04:29
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Realjones posted:I'm unsure if the stock fuel pump/clutch/brakes/etc can handle it? It can handle it. Countless people run stock (well other then induction) S52 engines in both the e30 and e36 with out blowing things apart.
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Jul 29, 2009 04:56
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pkx posted:
I would pay tons of money to watch the Porcubimmer at an autocross! Bahamutsrage posted:What wheels are those, they look fantastic! they are 18" O.Z. Ultraleggera's, prob just make them track stuff only soon and get some more modest CSL replica wheels instead, but still black or dark grey (I hate cleaning them)
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Jul 29, 2009 20:53
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Alright, how could it be possible that my car pulls to the left for a bit, then I make a couple turns at city speeds, and it now pulls to the right, and then, after a couple turns it'll shoot straight as an arrow, lather, rinse repeat? Struts are good, new strut mounts yesterday, ball joints are good, alignment may need work, minimal play in the wheel. Previous owner cut the springs, but the fit is correct. I've NEVER experienced anything like this on a non rack & pinion steering....
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Jul 30, 2009 02:18
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:Alright, how could it be possible that my car pulls to the left for a bit, then I make a couple turns at city speeds, and it now pulls to the right, and then, after a couple turns it'll shoot straight as an arrow, lather, rinse repeat? I have the same issue at times. I think it's due to camber or wear patterns or something. I also think the caster is really high and making the car 'track' into all the grooves in the road.
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Jul 30, 2009 03:34
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Clockwork Sputnik posted:alignment The two things not listed are your tie rod ends (I guess you might include that in balljoints) and your front control arm bushing (the lollypop at the back of the lower control arm). Personally, I'd start with fresh OEM FCABs and an alignment, this is ~1.5 hrs of shop time plus $50 in parts for the FCAB (maybe $200) and another $100 or so for a good alignment at a BMW dealer or specialist.
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Jul 30, 2009 03:57
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It was only a matter of time... the Elise is kicking my rear end in the Phoenix heat and I'm looking for something a bit easier to live with that can get me to and from work reliably. I know an Accord would be much, much more practical but I was hoping you guys could fill me in on some information about a 3-series. I'm looking to spend about 5-7k and wanted to know what the best option would be. I assumed it would be an e36 but a quick glance at ebay last night showed a few e46s under 9k. My only real requirement for my not-Elise is RWD, manual, good A/C and something that won't break all the time. Power isn't too much of a concern as long as it doesn't feel anemic when you try to accelerate with the A/C on (would this rule out the 323?) Are sedans generally going to be cheaper than coupes? Are there some trouble years I should look out for or should I just be looking at the newest car I can afford with the lowest miles? Would an e36 M3 be overly hopeful in my price range (of course with the intent being trouble-free miles)? If my budget starts creeping above 10k my eyes will probably start to wander towards a 2004 RX-8.
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Jul 30, 2009 13:17
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Zoom Zoom, motherfuckers
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Xenoid posted:I have the same issue at times. I think it's due to camber or wear patterns or something. I also think the caster is really high and making the car 'track' into all the grooves in the road. I'd normally agree with you, but this is on fresh pavement on city streets at low speeds. At freeway speeds, it definitely does 'track' into the grooves, but I think that'll be resolved with alignment. Sterndotstern posted:The two things not listed are your tie rod ends (I guess you might include that in balljoints) and your front control arm bushing (the lollypop at the back of the lower control arm). I'll definitely take a look at the FCABs. Tie rod ends all look good, we did have a good eye on them while we had the front end apart when we did the strut mounts.
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Jul 30, 2009 19:21
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I've been trying to find a good, low priced, beater e30 to fix up over the winter and turn into an auto-x/track car. I'd like to learn some more car-mechanical skills, so I wanted something relatively simple to work on, and to be perfectly honest I have a ridiculous man-crush on the e30 body style. So all I've really been looking for is something with a good foundation (like a 89+ 318 with the M42 engine or a 325i) and no/very minor rust, but it's been pretty hard to find one. Either the people posting on craigslist sell their cars crazy fast or they're too lazy to reply. Or their cars don't run. I might even stretch the budget some for an M3, but they're picking up in price. In comparison there's a lot more e36s out there, and I'm starting to wonder if I should just go for one of those instead of holding out for a good quality e30 in the interest of getting something into my garage in the next couple months. Any tips on good places (or methods) to look? Usually I check craigslist, my local BMWCCA chapter mailing list, and a few forums. I've thought of asking local BMW shops. This is around Denver, CO if that helps. Is this just sort of a "wait patiently until the right car pops up" sort of thing? I know these are probably dumb questions, but I only recently was bitten by the motorsports bug so this'll be the first time I try to buy something with an eye towards fixing it up for that purpose.
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Jul 31, 2009 04:26
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brae posted:Either the people posting on craigslist sell their cars crazy fast or they're too lazy to reply. Or their cars don't run. I might even stretch the budget some for an M3, but they're picking up in price. E30s go fast. I had to watch kijiji for 3 months, everyday, before I got one. Then when I finally saw one I called the guy immediatly to go look at it, and promised him cash by monday. When I came to pick up the car he said he had 3 more interested people call and make him offers (luckily, less than mine). E30s are now to the point where high school ricer #34 can afford to buy one (Actually maintaining one is a different story) so they go like hotcakes. The prices have been driven up in some places to the point of people thinking one that has enough rust to create holes deserves 4k. On the other hand, finding a clean E36 seems to be hard. I check everyday out of curiosity, and about 4 of 5 5spd 325/328ises have RIMZ and claim 190hp out of an m42 with a new intake. And if you are even going to think about an e30 m3, budget 16k.
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Jul 31, 2009 10:08
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I'm going to be trying to sell my totaled E36 M3 as a complete parts car when I get it back from insurance. Here is a link to the thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1279530 My question is how much should I be asking for? If the engine is still good, I was thinking $4000, and if it is not, $2300. Is this too little/too much?
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Jul 31, 2009 13:09
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I'm currently looking for a car that I can pay off in one fell swoop so that I can cross car payments off my monthly expenditures. Everyone and their brother has told me that this 1989 BMW 325 convertible is probably not the best idea in the world because repairs, etc would be murder. However, the price is certainly right and outside of a really damning vehicle history report I don't see any immediate reason why I shouldn't. So would something like this really be a foolish move? If so, why? edit: Yeah, I'm an automatic user, never been able to get the handle on a stick shift. Santiago3.1 fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Jul 31, 2009 |
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Jul 31, 2009 22:36
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Santiago3.1 posted:I'm currently looking for a car that I can pay off in one fell swoop so that I can cross car payments off my monthly expenditures. Everyone and their brother has told me that this 1989 BMW 325 convertible is probably not the best idea in the world because repairs, etc would be murder. However, the price is certainly right and outside of a really damning vehicle history report I don't see any immediate reason why I shouldn't. Eh, if you want something with an automatic an E30 convertible is not going to be the most thrilling experience. That said if they'd settle for like 500 dollars less it wouldn't be too bad.
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Jul 31, 2009 22:52
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The "Service Engine Soon" light on my e38 came on today. First time since I bought the car, runs fine, etc. Manual says it's emissions related. When a BMW throws the service light, how much does it actually mean it? My Volvo would throw the service light every couple of months and it would go away after a couple days. According to their service manager that's just how they worked and it should be there for at least a week before I need worry.
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Aug 1, 2009 02:48
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OrangeFurious posted:The "Service Engine Soon" light on my e38 came on today. First time since I bought the car, runs fine, etc. Manual says it's emissions related. When a BMW throws the service light, how much does it actually mean it? It can mean a large amount of things, from things like the MAF to an oil change being due. My baby is leaking, I'm pretty sure it's engine oil and I haven't had a chance to look at where it's from because it's so loving hot out and I don't have a trouble light anymore. I'm good with working on the car but I'm unsure as to how I'm going to spot where it's leaking from. The heads have leaked in the past (I have full records for the car) so I'm hoping that is and yet isn't the case. I am going to the wrecker tomorrow though as I found an Euro wrecker that has BMWs (E39 here) and I'm stoked to replace things that are worn and broken like seats and trim bits and a fog light and other random things. I also desperately owe my baby an oil change and a washing.
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Aug 1, 2009 04:03
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LCN posted:I'm a (not so) proud owner of an E36 '98 320 Coupe M-Sport, Avusblau in all it's sexyness. The reason why I decided to register after 3-4 years of lurking is simple. Or you'd think it is. Guess I'm just venting and telling you not to DIY unless you have a huge press in your garage. Quoting myself for closure. They had to change both rear wheel ball bearings, and it helped. No more whistling at 60 km/h + speeds. It did take them 3 and a half hours, so I saved the dinner money, which was fine when it all totaled 295 euros (417 $ at the current rates) with an oil + filter change tossed it. The biggest problem they had? Getting the car on the jack. 
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Aug 1, 2009 09:46
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Somebody help me settle an arguement. Has there ever been a 7 series with all wheel drive?
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Aug 1, 2009 15:47
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Arwox posted:Somebody help me settle an arguement. As far as I know, no, not yet. But they should be putting xdrive up as an option for the 7's late this year / early next year.
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Aug 1, 2009 17:29
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