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Pompous Rhombus posted:Actually it seems like the used (refurbished) ones go for like half of the cost of the new ones. I just got tired of waiting for another black Kiev 60 with MLU to come up on eBay The Kiev 60 especially is better from what I hear. The reworked ones are way cheaper for no real reason. The most I would pay is $250 for one straight from Hartblei with a new TTL prism. Even that's way on the high side, honestly. The 88 is a quirky piece of junk, but tolerable if you can deal with it being quirky on you. Don't plan to shoot weddings with it and you will be fine. I have a roll of Lucky 100 here, actually! It's 35mm but it came with a camera I bought. I've heard it's a bit "quirky" too. Tends to blow out anything remotely highlighted, but maybe the guy just messed up developing it or hasn't found the right soup? Reason I'm asking is that I bought a Yashica-D TLR for $40 to gently caress around with. I'm not expecting much, and if nothing else, it looks like it's possible to work on it without coming from a heritage of Swiss watchingmaking. The lenses should be butane-cleanable and the shutter is accessible. If I have to actually tear it down, there's diagrams on the web. It could be a complete writeoff, or not, who knows. v  vI also bought an old GE PR-1 light meter. It's a selenium cell meter but it was stored in the case and supposedly the needle still responds vigorously to light, which gives me hope that it will work. Living dangerously.  First thing I'm thinking of shooting is some Reala 100.
Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 06:47 on Jul 27, 2009 |
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Jul 27, 2009 05:18
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Does anyone know anything about Mamiya Press MF cameras? I'm looking at one on eBay at the moment, is it worth the hassle? It seems to be a high quality, modular system for a relatively low price, and plus I could potentially find a Super 23 body with a bellows back for 0resome tilt-shift gimmickry.
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Jul 27, 2009 07:26
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I found a $10 box at a yard sale, containing 2 prizes. The best prize is the Olympus OM-1 and a pair of 50mm f1.8 Zuiko primes. The OM-1 wasn't working, the mirror wasn't working properly, kind of half-mast at best. So I took it apart to see what if anything I could do, leaving this sorry looking mess on the kitchen counter  I found a page with the service manual and a writeup by an actual camera repairman and managed to get the camera working again. The mirror lock up lever had come off the mirror, after reconnecting it I put the camera back together...took it back apart and together again, 3 rd time was the charm. This is the first time I ever took a camera apart to this level and had it work again afterwards. Also pictured is a OM-10 I found at a thrift shop for $6.99, it needs some tweaking. Right now it looks like the OM-1 looks now. Also in the box was this, um, jewel?  Olympus IS-1. Integrated everything, but with manual and AV modes, beyond the normal program mode. Sort of a steriodal P&S but it is an SLR. The door latch is broken. I racked my tiny brain trying to figure out how to keep the door closed, finally I settled on the high tech wonder pictured in the photo, an O-ring. I'm going to run a roll through it to see if my fix worked. I have to say that the techs earn the money they charge for a CLA or repairs. That's some mad skills they have. Gnomad fucked around with this message at 08:32 on Jul 27, 2009 |
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Jul 27, 2009 08:28
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I'm getting back into film. I just picked up a Canon 5600F scanner, and found a local shop that does negative processing for $2/roll which makes it all affordable. I tested it out by taking down some film rolls I had sitting in my room - I knew they might be a bit old but one of them ended up being photos from 1998/1999, it was amazing to see them again, some of it turned out really crazy: Then I finished off a roll that's been in my Rebel G for a few years, and I'm liking the results:  Last night I attempted to bid on a Canon Canonet QL-17 GIII and narrowly missed out  They're kinda hard to come by here in Australia so if any of you Americans have one you'd be willing to sell me, check out post in SA-Mart, and I'll be grateful to you forever.Gnomad posted:I found a $10 box at a yard sale, containing 2 prizes. Nice work with the repair, those old cameras have an unbelievable number of parts. I discovered this after trying to access the aperture blades of a Canonet QL-19 by taking apart the lens, that project is "on hold" with the camera sitting in about 30 pieces.
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Jul 27, 2009 09:47
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Dude, you should enable the digital ICE on your scanner.
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Jul 27, 2009 18:15
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I want to get into large format. Probably 4x5. What's a nice, reliable, approachable 4x5 camera to pick up? And what should I know about 4x5 in general before getting into it?
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Jul 27, 2009 19:28
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Just bought some Arista Premium, D-76, fixer (just went with a Kodak powder), and a film retriever from Freestyle to go with the Patterson tank I picked up, hopefully going to develop my first rolls pretty soon! Also thinking my next purchase will be a film scanner, so I can cut CVS out of the loop. I've heard Walmart's in Florida don't offer the send-out service anymore, anyone got a recommendation for cheap mail-order processing? Of 120 I've 1 roll E6 and 1 roll B&W, as well as two rolls of 35mm B&W. Don't want to risk screwing up the B&W on my own. dorkasaurus_rex posted:I want to get into large format. Probably 4x5. What's a nice, reliable, approachable 4x5 camera to pick up? And what should I know about 4x5 in general before getting into it? I've been wanting to put together a Speed Graphic and Aero-Ektar rig for a while now, but I decided to go with a 35mm rangefinder for the time being. Speed Graphics are somewhat different animals than field cameras; the in-body shutter lets you use old barrel lenses, they've got a built in rangefinder (or two), but don't give you as many movements. A Speed Graphic isn't ideal for landscapes or architecture, but probably easier to use for portraits or something moving. Crown Graphics are lighter and lose the in-body shutter. I thought LF would be more expensive than it actually is; nice Speed Graphics go for around $200, as does a basic 4x5 field camera. I suppose shooting a lot of E6 would add up.
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Jul 27, 2009 22:55
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Pompous Rhombus posted:I thought LF would be more expensive than it actually is; nice Speed Graphics go for around $200, as does a basic 4x5 field camera. I suppose shooting a lot of E6 would add up. Oh yes it does... I decided I was going to do it right first time and buy a Sinar F2 with 2 decent lenses (and one crap one that I'll probably re-sell.) My logic was that I got a decent deal on the F2 and could probably flip it whenever for about the same money. The F2 still has a fairly sizeable active market and has all the movements I need for landscape and architecture work.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:03
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TokenBrit posted:Oh yes it does... Yeah, I paid something like $350(?) for my F1 with a Sinaron lens last year. At those prices it's hardly worth looking at the Speed Graphics unless you want something more compact.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:13
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Pompous Rhombus posted:Don't want to risk screwing up the B&W on my own. You'll be fine. Man up. You've got the tools, now use them.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:21
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HPL posted:You'll be fine. Man up. You've got the tools, now use them. Just sacrifice a roll to practice loading, then sacrifice another roll to practice development. It's not rocket science, and it's fun.
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Jul 27, 2009 23:27
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My lightmeter came, and it's hosed. At the least one of the tiny springs in the galvanometer is hosed. It swings but it's wrong according to my K1000's meter. Any recommendations for a modern-manufacture meter, preferably one that doesn't cost an arm and a leg? I don't need an incident meter or anything.
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Jul 28, 2009 00:31
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hybr1d posted:Now for my question- what's a good starter large format? I don't care how big it is, and I just want something that lines up with an old Pentax SLR. I'm not really brave enough to buy one off Ebay. I've used Sinar and Toyo in school which I consider good starter view cameras but my favorite one to use was a Toyo. It's so easy to use and maneuver.
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Jul 28, 2009 01:14
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Paul MaudDib posted:My lightmeter came, and it's hosed. At the least one of the tiny springs in the galvanometer is hosed. It swings but it's wrong according to my K1000's meter. You sure you got the right battery in there? Old light meters need old-style 1.3v batteries.
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Jul 28, 2009 01:17
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HPL posted:You sure you got the right battery in there? Old light meters need old-style 1.3v batteries. Nope, it's a selenium lightmeter. They die all on their own. e: To be clear, selenium is a photocell. It generates voltage on its own, and can generate microamps of current. This is enough to turn a galvanometer. Given time the selenium cell likes to die, making it useless. Being left exposed to light makes this happen much faster. This is as opposed to CdS which I believe acts as a photoresistor, allowing more current from a battery to pass as the light increases. Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 05:44 on Jul 28, 2009 |
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Jul 28, 2009 01:24
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killabyte posted:Dude, you should enable the digital ICE on your scanner. Haha yeh, actually I think I had it set to low or medium for most of my scans, I'll put it on "high" next time. Hopefully Canon's dust/scratch removal is actually effective and not just marketing. Also I found a decently priced QL-17 GIII on eBay with Buy It Now, I can't wait for it to arrive.
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Jul 28, 2009 04:09
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Clayton Bigsby posted:Yeah, I paid something like $350(?) for my F1 with a Sinaron lens last year. At those prices it's hardly worth looking at the Speed Graphics unless you want something more compact. Or dem cheap barrel lenses  HPL posted:You'll be fine. Man up. You've got the tools, now use them. I totally will after a few trial rolls, but in the meantime I'm probably gonna send this stuff out because the film is old (not sure how old) and the stuff on there is irreplacable, versus whatever I shoot noodling around on that Arista that I'm fine with screwing up. Also pretty sure my neg carriers don't do 120, so that one's going out with the slide film. edit: I'm trying to source a cheap Copal or Compur #0 shutter for a project, preferably one with a 1/500s max speed... any suggestions? I see them attached to LF lenses on eBay, but I'm wondering if there are any folders or press cameras that can be picked up for cheap that would have one. Pompous Rhombus fucked around with this message at 06:44 on Jul 29, 2009 |
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Jul 29, 2009 06:06
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I'm watching an ebay auction for a Stylus Epic right now. (when I grow up I want to be just like HPL). I can't figure out you load 400 speed film and have it take an exposure for 3200.
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Jul 29, 2009 16:09
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I just picked up a Minolta SR-T 101 off eBay for $5 (plus $12 shipping, ha), to go with my Mom's 45mm f/2 Rokkor lens she has had for like 20-30 years. I'm pretty excited to be kickin' it old school.
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Jul 29, 2009 16:35
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:I'm watching an ebay auction for a Stylus Epic right now. (when I grow up I want to be just like HPL). I can't figure out you load 400 speed film and have it take an exposure for 3200.
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Jul 29, 2009 16:59
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AIIAZNSK8ER posted:I'm watching an ebay auction for a Stylus Epic right now. (when I grow up I want to be just like HPL). I can't figure out you load 400 speed film and have it take an exposure for 3200. Google up DX encoding. Wikipedia has a good article on it. You basically take a knife or some other scrapey utensil and scrape off one (for 1600) or two (for 3200) of the black squares of the top row of the DX code to force the ISO speed.
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Jul 29, 2009 17:08
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MY TLR got here today. Yashica-D, case is breaking up and beat to poo poo, but the body looks great with the exception of the left side which has what looks like "H3" scratched into it in white. There's some brown on the body around the bottom of the dials on the right, some dust on the ground glass, a bit of brown on some of the knobs, and a bit on the lenses, but the shutter seems to be dead nuts on. It's got the Yashinon 2.8 and Yashinon 3.5 lens combo too. Looks like this gamble paid off, a working TLR for $37!  The focusing screen is so cool! e: Now I need a working meter.  Maybe I'll get a roll of Reala if I can find it and try Sunny F/16 e2: The shutter, aperture, and ISO are set by wheel, is the setting discrete or continuous? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 22:48 on Jul 29, 2009 |
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Jul 29, 2009 20:27
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Paul MaudDib posted:e: Now I need a working meter.
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Jul 30, 2009 00:37
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Pompous Rhombus posted:
http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost-classifieds/showproduct.php/product/16847/cat/6/limit/recent/date/1246438753 Noticed this one when I was browsing the classifieds earlier. Maybe that's something for you? Only 1/125 though.
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Jul 30, 2009 02:11
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Paul MaudDib posted:e2: The shutter, aperture, and ISO are set by wheel, is the setting discrete or continuous? The aperture is continuous, the shutter is not.
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Jul 30, 2009 02:52
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Clayton Bigsby posted:http://www.rangefinderforum.com/photopost-classifieds/showproduct.php/product/16847/cat/6/limit/recent/date/1246438753 I didn't think to do a search in the classifieds there, thanks! You're right though, it's probably too slow for what I want it for... for now I think I'm going to try digging up one of the newer 1/400s or 1/500s shutters. I asked in the Folders subforum and apparently most 6x9's use a #0 shutter (makes sense) so I'll be on the lookout for one of those with a high-speed shutter. I sent an e-mail to this folder restorer to see if he's got anything laying around on the workbench I might be able to pick up for cheap. By all accounts he's one of the best places to buy one, if anyone's looking. edit: yesss, got my TBB tag.
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Jul 30, 2009 04:21
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Mknolta AF mount stuff in the Sa mart....just saying.
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Jul 30, 2009 05:53
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I have a family friend who's asked me to see if I can develop some negatives he just recovered from when he was a soldier in WWII. This is a really cool opportunity but I'm hesitant just because I don't want to gently caress up his negatives in any way. I haven't had a chance to actually see them yet but what would everyone's suggestion be to prep for this or should I not even be handling this and should I just send him to a professional? I'm fine developing and printing black and white negatives 35mm or 120mm or whatever but I'd not know where to find development times necessarily since I have no idea what kind of film I'm going to be looking at. I'll probably update once I get to meet with him.
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Jul 30, 2009 06:45
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Undeveloped film from 65 years ago? I doubt that it's recoverable.  But these folks develop ancient film of all types (even Kodachrome? Maybe they ship it to Dwayne's.) http://www.rockymountainfilm.com/faq.htm
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Jul 30, 2009 07:03
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Leyendecker posted:I have a family friend who's asked me to see if I can develop some negatives he just recovered from when he was a soldier in WWII. This is a really cool opportunity but I'm hesitant just because I don't want to gently caress up his negatives in any way. I haven't had a chance to actually see them yet but what would everyone's suggestion be to prep for this or should I not even be handling this and should I just send him to a professional? I'm fine developing and printing black and white negatives 35mm or 120mm or whatever but I'd not know where to find development times necessarily since I have no idea what kind of film I'm going to be looking at. I'll probably update once I get to meet with him. There are some guys at APUG who know how to deal with this sort of situation, worth registering and asking there. Of course it's possible that they're ruined, but it's also likely there's still an image on them.
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Jul 30, 2009 07:57
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Leyendecker posted:I have a family friend who's asked me to see if I can develop some negatives he just recovered from when he was a soldier in WWII. This is a really cool opportunity but I'm hesitant just because I don't want to gently caress up his negatives in any way. I haven't had a chance to actually see them yet but what would everyone's suggestion be to prep for this or should I not even be handling this and should I just send him to a professional? I'm fine developing and printing black and white negatives 35mm or 120mm or whatever but I'd not know where to find development times necessarily since I have no idea what kind of film I'm going to be looking at. I'll probably update once I get to meet with him. Personally I would probably just dump them in Diafine and hope for the best. It is quite possible to develop old negatives, I read about it regularly and there are some sites devoted to found film, but 60+ years is a stretch...
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Jul 30, 2009 10:20
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I'm doubting it's recoverable too. If it's black and white, there might be something left, but it's also probable they will be fogged and some might not turn out. If it's color film, it's probably gone unless it's Kodachrome, in which case you'd better get your film to Dwayne's asap. Even Kodachrome is pretty sensitive until it gets developed. I don't really know for sure, but my gut feeling is that it won't turn out. Good luck e: Post them when you're done, if your friend will let you. Flickr or something? Paul MaudDib fucked around with this message at 13:30 on Jul 30, 2009 |
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Jul 30, 2009 13:22
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Well, I grabbed a Pentax ME Super off eBay after reading HPL's many posts about how awesome it is. It was a little bit more than what I was hoping to pay, but it was a Henry's auction, so at least I know it'll work and have a 90day warranty.
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Jul 30, 2009 18:00
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CanuckBassist posted:Well, I grabbed a Pentax ME Super off eBay after reading HPL's many posts about how awesome it is. It was a little bit more than what I was hoping to pay, but it was a Henry's auction, so at least I know it'll work and have a 90day warranty. You should have checked Craigslist. They're so common that you're bound to see a few come up every month.
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Jul 30, 2009 19:17
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HPL posted:You should have checked Craigslist. They're so common that you're bound to see a few come up every month. Really? I remember checking a week or two ago on both Craigslist and Kijiji to see how much they were, and I checked again for the past few days when I decided I wanted one. I saw the same three ads in my area. Two were from the same seller trying to sell a package deal for like $250, and the third was someone selling a semi-working one with a 135mm lens for $55. I figured maybe the model was too specific for me to hunt down without a package deal. How much do the bodies usually go for?
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Jul 30, 2009 19:44
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CanuckBassist posted:How much do the bodies usually go for? Not totally sure about right here and now, but I wouldn't pay more than $70-$100 for one. The SE version I would probably pay $100-$150 for one. HPL fucked around with this message at 21:06 on Jul 30, 2009 |
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Jul 30, 2009 21:04
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HPL posted:Not totally sure about right here and now, but I wouldn't pay more than $70-$100 for one. The SE version I would probably pay $100-$150 for one. That's good to hear. I paid about $50 with another $15 for shipping and tax. Now I feel a lot better about it. Somehow I imagined all of you were finding these cameras for $5-10 from little old ladies at garage sales.
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Jul 30, 2009 21:17
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CanuckBassist posted:That's good to hear. I paid about $50 with another $15 for shipping and tax. Now I feel a lot better about it. Somehow I imagined all of you were finding these cameras for $5-10 from little old ladies at garage sales. The first ME Super I ever bought was actually a lemon, but it came with three decent lenses for a cheap price so it worked out okay. I'm glad I bought my Pentax MX when I did because prices for it seem to be creeping upwards. If you haven't really invested much in film equipment yet, I'd also recommend giving the Olympus OM-x series a swing too. Very good camera bodies and lenses, but the lenses are pricier and harder to find than the Pentax ones. Speaking of which, does anyone know where I can get an Olympus 1-14 focusing screen? I ordered one from KEH but there was a 1-10 screen in the case instead of a 1-14. 
HPL fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Jul 30, 2009 |
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Jul 30, 2009 21:27
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HPL posted:The first ME Super I ever bought was actually a lemon, but it came with three decent lenses for a cheap price so it worked out okay. Yeah, I looked a little onto the OM-x cameras, but they were definitely a little pricier than the ME, and the lenses too. I pretty much just wanted a small and light film SLR to stick a 35 prime on. Now I've got to find a cheap 35 2.0!
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Jul 30, 2009 21:32
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HPL posted:Speaking of which, does anyone know where I can get an Olympus 1-14 focusing screen? I ordered one from KEH but there was a 1-10 screen in the case instead of a 1-14.
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Jul 30, 2009 21:35
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