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Concatenation posted:It looks like one of those giant rainbow lollipops. The blue and red one looks like something out of the movie Tron and I am sort of ashamed that I like it so much.
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Aug 1, 2009 09:48
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Well at least you don't have to worry about the neck coming apart at the nut if you lean it against a wall and it falls. I guess Tailor does laminated necks as well on some models, and I haven't heard of any issues with that method of construction. Definitely a love-it or hate-it design...
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Aug 1, 2009 09:48
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I quite like that Zoot Suit SG. Not "$2k like", mind you. To contribute, trying to decide between a used Deluxe Memory Man Classic or a new Stereo Memory Man w/ Hazarai to get Petrucci-like ambient delay and musical rhythmic delay/looping style delays. Leaning towards the SMMH.
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Aug 1, 2009 13:44
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Carbohydrates posted:So did you guys see this new Gibson? It's the "Zoot Suit SG" and it's ugly as poo poo: I'm surprised at the level of detail Gibson is putting into their product pages now. I don't really care about the string slot width on the nut or what brand of glue holds the neck and body together, but I'm sure somebody does and its great they're providing that info.
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Aug 1, 2009 17:33
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I hope you're not like me. For far too many years I settled on playing and recording with a crappy Washburn acoustic/electric because I couldn't justify dropping so much cash on a good acoustic when I would rather invest in other gear. Despite the fact that most of my songs and writing originate on the acoustic, I still couldn't convince myself no matter how hard I tried. I finally told myself to grow a pair... so after hours of play-time, I settled on this:  Martin D-15 Solid Mahogany. This was a lot less money than I was prepared to spend. The tone is so rich it's almost unbelievable. Sound clip: 
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Aug 2, 2009 00:40
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dizzywhip fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Nov 9, 2020 |
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Aug 2, 2009 02:23
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Krazny_Oktyabr posted:Nice guitar and playing man.
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Aug 2, 2009 03:00
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I posted a page ago about the Wampler Triple Recstortion I just got in. Well, I'm hoping he makes it part of his regular line-up - please drop him a line on the comment box on the product page if you liked the clips. It turns out that I can get it to sound pretty much EXACTLY like my Zoom Tri-Metal. The Zoom Tri-Metal is a well-regarded pedal, one of the first pedals to actually achieve the goal of sounding a hell of a lot like a cranked high-gain Recto. This could be really good news for a lot of high gain lovers, because the Tri-Metal was made in very limited quantities and the price keeps going up and up for a complex, largely SMD constructed pedal that you don't have any sort of warranty for if you buy it now. I was going to sell mine recently but the sound made me keep it despite my financial need. Well, the Wampler Triple Recstortion has a whole lot of sounds on tap, but I have found that it can almost perfectly emulate the sound of the Zoom Tri-Metal on what I feel are the Tri-Metal's best settings. Given that the Tri-Metal's biggest weakness is that it has a few sweet spots on the controls where it sounds like high-gain brutality and then a lot of places where it's too boomy, too piercing, too scooped or too boxy, the fact that the Wampler Triple Recstortion can eerily nail the Tri-Metal's sweet spot sound, while giving you a lot more usable range of gain and tonal adjustment (and a lot of sounds that aren't like the Tri-Metal at all but which sound great). The Tri-Metal doesn't have jack for anything but the highest of high gain sounds, while the Triple Recstortion has very usable low-medium gain thick crunch all the way up to the really heavy stuff, with great tone adjustments. Assuming Wampler does make it part of his regular line-up... and frankly, I don't see how he wouldn't want to since the 100 he made sold in three days, provided people leave him some messages letting him know they want one... this could be a way for people to get their hands on a highly regarded sound, in addition to a lot of other great low-medium to high gain tones, for a reasonable price. If that piques your interest, go over to the page for it and tell him you'd buy one if he started making them regularly. I'm going to be leaving him a comment even though I've got this one, because I think it's an exciting new pedal and it really needs to be on the market. Agreed fucked around with this message at 07:10 on Aug 2, 2009 |
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Aug 2, 2009 07:00
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Agreed posted:I posted a page ago about the Wampler Triple Recstortion I just got in. Well, I'm hoping he makes it part of his regular line-up - please drop him a line on the comment box on the product page if you liked the clips. It turns out that I can get it to sound pretty much EXACTLY like my Zoom Tri-Metal. The Zoom Tri-Metal is a well-regarded pedal, one of the first pedals to actually achieve the goal of sounding a hell of a lot like a cranked high-gain Recto. I agree, I love Wampler's pedals, I have two on my board right now (Clean Buffer and Super Ecstasy) and they are both awesome. If I had more use for a Mesa in a box I'd get the recstortion, but I don't really have a reason for it. The next wampler pedal I get will probably be the pinnacle or the plextortion though.
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Aug 2, 2009 09:25
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I've been getting sick and tired of using DIY to keep my drum rack stable and secure while fighting the realization that it is just too small and was never meant to hold all the poo poo I've stacked on top of it. So I just bought this: It's a lot of money for what amounts to a bunch of clamps and tubes, but it should be completely worth it.
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Aug 2, 2009 16:50
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 Seymour Duncan Invader for the bridge position in my Ibanez Artist Custom. I'm going to go buy a soldering iron this week and try to do it myself. Hopefully I don't gently caress it up too bad. I'll probably replace the neck pickup soon too but since it's mainly going to be a metal guitar I'm not in a rush. I also bought some .11s for it too but no one cares what those look like.
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Aug 3, 2009 00:11
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Thoogsby posted:
Nice. I myself just upgraded the pickups in an old Squier to DiMarzio YJM (neck) and HS-3 (middle and bridge) two days ago. I was actually surprised that everything went fine, considering it was my first time and all. I had a friend who helped me out though - it's easier when you have someone to hold down the wires for you and whatnot. I think you'll do fine, it's actually really easy. Just make sure to note down what wires go where before you unsolder them (I drew a simple picture of the volume pot and five way switch and noted what wires went where). Good luck! Oh, and the DiMarzios sound awesome, by the way. Totally noiseless, even though they're single coil (edit: actually they're humbucking, in that they have a second vertical coil to cancel noise or something but they sound and look like single coils), and they perform really well for both clean and overdriven.
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Aug 3, 2009 00:25
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Thoogsby posted:
Watch out with that soldering iron, man. It WILL mercilessly burn the poo poo out of you whether you like it or not.
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Aug 3, 2009 00:26
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Thoogsby posted:
Hell yes my friend, great choice. Make sure you don't buy a crappy soldering iron, it'll save you issues in the long run (particularly soldering to the back of pots, which will suck up heat like nothing else).
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Aug 3, 2009 00:29
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 This thing loving RULES! Holy poo poo I can't really explain how awesome this filter is. I'm trying to work on a way to record, but when I hook it up in line with Guitar Rig, it sounds like its clipping out even though all the level meters are below orange. Maybe its my headphones... I'm working on it. Anyway, review/clips to come shortly if I can get it to work right with my computer.
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Aug 3, 2009 01:33
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Thoogsby posted:Seymour Duncan Invader for the bridge position in my Ibanez Artist Custom. I'm going to go buy a soldering iron this week and try to do it myself. Hopefully I don't gently caress it up too bad. I'll probably replace the neck pickup soon too but since it's mainly going to be a metal guitar I'm not in a rush. Buy at least a 30 watt soldering iron. Seriously, you will regret it if you buy a lower wattage. If you don't know what kind of solder to buy, a 60/40 (60% tin and 40% lead composition) solder works well for any application, but a 63/37 would be better if you can find it as it has a lower melting point and hardens to a more uniform surface. Rosin (flux/flox) core solder only; anything else will corrode your guitars hardware. Chip McFuck fucked around with this message at 02:17 on Aug 3, 2009 |
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Aug 3, 2009 02:14
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Side Effects posted:Buy at least a 30 watt soldering iron. Seriously, you will regret it if you buy a lower wattage. For some reason I actually have a roll of 60/40 with a Rosin core so I think that should work. But I'll definitely get a 30W soldering iron thanks.
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Aug 3, 2009 02:21
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RandomCheese posted:How are the mesh pads holding up after the first year, any sign of wear or that they might be coming apart? I have had mine for a few weeks now and while there is absolutely no sign of damage on the heads, it is still something I am slightly concerned about. I bash mine almost every day and I'm never gentle. After a year they're still holding up fine. Let me show you:   The rims could use a clean though. Carbohydrates posted:So did you guys see this new Gibson? It's the "Zoot Suit SG" and it's ugly as poo poo: I actually love this.
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Aug 3, 2009 02:38
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Scarf posted:
Ok, think i got it working for the most part. Here's a few samples of some basic sounds I've been able to get out of it. MUCH more expansive than what I'm showing though... just haven't had the time to explore completely. Standard Q-tron type envelope (little wetter sounding imo):  Same settings but wit the built-in distortion, switched to band-pass and blended w/ the dry signal:  Decreased the Delay so the filter tries to reset almost immediately, little wetter and more quacky:  Same but with distortion and changes previously mentioned:  Downsweep (kind of distorts due to the lovely input level on my computer):  Distorted: 
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Aug 3, 2009 03:47
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Now you need to move to LA and start writing porn soundtracks. Seriously though, awesome.
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Aug 3, 2009 04:52
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Timage posted:I bash mine almost every day and I'm never gentle. After a year they're still holding up fine. Let me show you: Thanks, my fears have been allayed. I also note that you have swapped the default hi-hat and brain positions, something I had to do almost immediately to prevent much stick-hitting. Everyone else with a TD-9 should also do this.
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Aug 3, 2009 05:44
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The Mystery Date posted:Now you need to move to LA and start writing porn soundtracks. Seriously though, awesome. Hah, thanks. Went back and did some clips with my Lakland, little tighter sounding.  
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Aug 3, 2009 13:56
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Side Effects posted:Rosin (flux/flox) core solder only; anything else will corrode your guitars hardware. If you use solder with lead in it you should work in a very well ventilated area and take care to not inhale any fumes. Working in a poorly ventilated area and inhaling lead fumes is very bad for your lungs and can give you heavy metal poisoning which at extreme levels is fatal! (Obviously I am not suggesting you go ahead and inhale the fumes from lead-free solder, you still need to work in a ventilated area it's just not as horrible for you if you do inhale some)
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Aug 3, 2009 23:11
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Col.Kiwi posted:heavy metal poisoning 
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Aug 4, 2009 00:21
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Col.Kiwi posted:Yes, very important. Myself though I suggest using a lead-free rosin-core solder because the fumes are not so toxic. In my experience lead-free solder works quite well with guitar electronics, you just want to make sure you're buying rosin core solder (may be labelled "electronics grade".) For the amount of soldering involved in redoing the electronics for a guitar, he can inhale every single fume that comes of the iron and it won't hurt him. Heavy metal poisioning? He's not loving EATING it. Takes a good deal more lead than a few solder fumes.
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Aug 4, 2009 00:59
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Col.Kiwi posted:Working in a poorly ventilated area and inhaling lead fumes is very bad for your lungs and can give you heavy metal poisoning which at extreme levels is fatal! It also causes brain damage.
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Aug 4, 2009 00:59
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h_double posted:It also causes brain damage. You'll also grow breasts and your penis will drop off.
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Aug 4, 2009 01:00
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Lead free solder sucks balls anyways. I personally like Radio Shack's "High-Tech Silver Bearing Solder" it is super thin, melts and cools really fast, and always has given me super shiny solder joints. It is a 62/36/2 alloy 62% tin 36% lead and 2% silver for that extra MOJO/werewolf killing abilities.
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Aug 4, 2009 01:28
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I've been looking at low-wattage heads to drive a 2x12 cabinet. Came pretty close to picking up a Blackstar HT-5 until someone directed me towards this little beauty. Egnater Rebel 20 Head. The wattage knob is pretty cool, but what really makes me giddy is the fact that it's got two sets of power tubes; 2 6V6s and 2 EL84s, plus a knob on the front that lets you mix the sound between them. Rad.
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Aug 4, 2009 02:00
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Thoogsby posted:I recommend Weller brand soldering irons. I have my dad's old 60W Weller sky blue (long since faded to "Fender Mint Green") TC202 from the early 1970's and it still performs like a champ. Googling for "Weller TC202" pops up numerous stories of "I found this thing and it still works". I've put together two pedals, a switch box, repaired a "broken" pawn shop Wah pedal find, and added 1/4" jacks to pretty much everything I own using it. The amount of lead you inhale from lead solder is minuscule to the amount you absorb through your skin by cleaning the contacts on your car battery, handling your wife's fine crystal, or leaning up against lead based painted walls (or, depending on where you grew up, eating lead paint chips). While I don't recommend huffing lead fumes, in your lifetime, you'll get more brain damage from the mercury vapors you inhale from the metal tooth fillings in your mouth than you ever will from casual soldering hobbies using lead. Hadlock fucked around with this message at 02:13 on Aug 4, 2009 |
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Aug 4, 2009 02:02
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bisticles posted:I've been looking at low-wattage heads to drive a 2x12 cabinet. Came pretty close to picking up a Blackstar HT-5 until someone directed me towards this little beauty. I tried out one of these whilst looking for an amp a while back - not what I wanted, but a very nice tone nonetheless - and the wattage knob is awesome. Good choice.
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Aug 4, 2009 04:37
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So my setup is pretty much complete. I got a second 2x12 and an ABY switch so I can run them both at the same time (or switch between them if I want). It sounds amazing. The two heads and two cabs compliment each other quite nicely. It sounds friggin' thick. THe only thing I worry about is the fact that they're both tube heads that vent mostly on the top. Is the heat something I should worry about? There is about an inch air gap between the two heads so there is a little bit of breathing room. I've seen people stack heads before too so it can't be too bad.
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Aug 4, 2009 04:46
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Mountain Dew posted:The only thing I worry about is the fact that they're both tube heads that vent mostly on the top. Is the heat something I should worry about? There is about an inch air gap between the two heads so there is a little bit of breathing room. I've seen people stack heads before too so it can't be too bad. Worse comes to worse, you can always put them side by side and run them in stereo, which is awesome.
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Aug 4, 2009 05:09
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Gorilla Salsa posted:Worse comes to worse, you can always put them side by side and run them in stereo, which is awesome. I was doing that at first and it sounds killer, but it'll never work live. The stages are always too small so I've gotta stack it all like that.
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Aug 4, 2009 05:22
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Hadlock posted:I recommend Weller brand soldering irons. I have my dad's old 60W Weller sky blue (long since faded to "Fender Mint Green") TC202 from the early 1970's and it still performs like a champ. Googling for "Weller TC202" pops up numerous stories of "I found this thing and it still works". I've put together two pedals, a switch box, repaired a "broken" pawn shop Wah pedal find, and added 1/4" jacks to pretty much everything I own using it. Yeah I just picked up a 40W Weller for $20 and I'm about to get started. Let's see how this goes.
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Aug 4, 2009 19:43
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Victory.
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Aug 4, 2009 23:09
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Mountain Dew posted:So my setup is pretty much complete. I got a second 2x12 and an ABY switch so I can run them both at the same time (or switch between them if I want). It sounds amazing. The two heads and two cabs compliment each other quite nicely. It sounds friggin' thick. Oh man, I have such a boner for VHT/Fryette. Post more and put my Super 30 to shame.
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Aug 5, 2009 01:11
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My Dr. Boogie arrived yesterday, I'll post pics when I'm done painting it. It sounds loving tight, though. I doubt any of you knew this, but today was my birthday. I'm still waiting for my gift from my parents, but I did pick up a Stereo Memory Man w/ Hazarai today for a pretty sweet loving price ($150, waiting for it to ship to my local Guitar Center). I'm also picked up a pack of Jazz IIIs, fell in love with them, so I ended up buying something like 30. Still trying to decide if I want to get a Volume pedal or a Deluxe electric Mistress... Thoogsby posted:Victory. Wow, that guitar loving owns.
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Aug 5, 2009 04:42
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Mountain Dew posted:I was doing that at first and it sounds killer, but it'll never work live. The stages are always too small so I've gotta stack it all like that. If the stages are that small, why do you need all that power?
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Aug 5, 2009 09:36
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| # ? May 15, 2024 18:03 |
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Small stages let club owners fit more people inside.
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Aug 5, 2009 12:32
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